VIE\¥ 



OF THE 



UNITED STATES. 



VIEW 



UNITED STATES, 

HISTOZIXCAZ., OEOaRAFHICAI.;^ AKTB 
STATZSTICAI. ; 

EXHIBITING, IK A CONVENIENT FOKM, 

THE NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FEATURES 

OF THE 

SEVERAL STATES, 

AND EMBRACING THOSE LEADING BBANCKES OP 

HISTORY AND STATISTICS BEST ADAPTED TO DEVELOP THE 

PRESENT CONDITION OF THE 

NORTH AMERICAN UNION. 
ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS, &c. 



BY WILLIAM DARBY. 



/ PHILADELPHIA : 

PUBLISHED BY H. S. TANNER» 



1828. 



Eastern District of Pennsylvania, ss. 

BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twentieth day of Octoher, 
in the fifty-second year of the Independence of tlie United States of 
America, Henry S. Tanner, of the said district, hath deposited in 
this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as pro- 
prietor, in the words following, to wit : 

" View of the United States, Historical, Geographical, and Sta- 
tistical ; exhibiting, in a convenient form, the Natural and Artificial 
Features of the several States, and embracing those leading branch- 
es of Histoi-y and Statistics best adapted to develop the present 
condition of the North American Union. Illustrated with Maps, &c. 
By William Darby." 

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, enti- 
tled, ^^ An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the 
copies of Maps, Charts, and Books to the Authors and Proprietors of 
such copies, during the time therein mentioned}" and also to an Act 
entitled, " An Act, supplementai*y to an Act, entitled, an Act for 
the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, 
Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, 
during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits 
thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical 
and other prints." 

D. CALDWELL, 
Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsijlvania, 



,,y oT Con^. 



MIFFLIN & PAHRT, VllINTEUS. 



■■'a? 



,„.=^•'' 



H 



PREFACE. 



In the execution of the volume I now place be- 
fore the public, the natural method was chosen in 
preference to the usual more regular course of geo- 
graphical description. In the physical part the 
names of artificial subdivisions have been introduced 
only where indispensable; and the names of a few 
cities used as mere land-marks. The rivers are 
traced in a connected series as far as possible, and 
the continuity of the mountain systems traced as far 
as accurate data have been collected. 

With such previous survey of the mountain and 
river systems, and with their relative extent given, 
the artificial subdivisions can be referred clearly to 
their respective natural section. In a view, neces- 
sarily brief, only outlines could be [given, and the 
principal benefit of such a view would have been 
lost by crowding the description with too much de- 
tail. The work is intended for practical use, there- 
fore technical terms were excluded with scrupulous 
care. 

Geology, as it stands in our books, being a sci- 
ence (if it deserves the name of a science) of con- 
jecture, I have rejected, as far as practicable, terms 
that teach nothing definite. How far I have sue- 



11 PREFACE. 

ceeded the reader will decide; but my sedulous en- 
deavours have been to render my little production 
a safe manual in regard to all the dependance that 
agriculture, commerce, and canal and road improve- 
ment may have upon correct geographical descrip- 
tion. 

In general but little of hypothesis has been ha- 
zarded, and this rule, in every case so necessary, 
has been observed respecting the climate. Long 
previous to writing for publication, on that or any 
other subject, I had been led, by lessons drawn from 
nature, to reject much that Volney and others had 
given as theory. With ample means placed at my 
disposal, I have collected and embodied data on the 
meteorology of the United States, as connected with 
that of the whole earth. In regard to personal 
means of observation, though my range was exten- 
sive, there is one, at least, to whom I must yield. 
That man's name is placed to the subjoined testi- 
monial, which I gratefully make a part of this pre- 
face. 

" Dear Sir: I have perused with great satisfaction 
your highly instructive Treatise on the subject of 
Climate generally, and that of the United States in 
particular; and it gives me pleasure to add my pub- 
lic testimony in favour of the correctness of your 
views and deductions. In regard to your conclusions 
respecting the temperature of the climate of the 
Great Valley or basin of the Mississippi, compared 
with that of the country bordering upon the Atlan- 
tic ocean, they are, to the best of my knowledge. 



PREFACE. Ill 

correct, and accordant with my own observations 
and experience in relation to this subject. 
I remain, dear sir, very respectfully. 
Your obedient servant, 

S. H.LONG, Tofil. Engineer." 

The substance of the meteorological observations 
referred to in Col. Long's Expeditions, and also the 
observations of Mr. Haines, are embodied in Chap- 
ter X, I always regard with peculiar respect the 
evidence of an actual observer, experienced on the 
subject which his testimony is requisite to support; 
and, therefore, consider the evidence of Col. Long, 
in the case of the climate of the United States, as 
going far towards a decision of the controversy. 

On more than one occasion, I have stated that, 
on the principles of hydrostatics, the surface of the 
Gulf of Mexico must be very considerably elevated 
above that of the Atlantic ocean opposite the Chesa- 
peake and Delaware bays. This theory is reiterated 
in the View of the United States, and I think stands 
on a secure basis, unless some other cause than gra- 
vitation can be given to account for a stream flowing 
upwards of one thousand miles, and towards its foun- 
tain, with steady and so great rapidity, as from three 
to five miles hourly. 

The political divisions have been placed in alpha- 
betical order, giving a facility of reference which 
would not have been compensated by any geogi-a- 
phical engrouping. There cannot easily be made 
any division of the states and territories, in regard 



IV PREFACE. 

to their relative position, against which very valid 
objections may not be urged. 

In one respect the View has a manifest advan- 
tage. It not only gives from the best authority> 
that of the General Post Office, every county in the 
United States, at the beginning of the current year; 
but also embraces much of the original information 
collected by Mr. H. S. Tanner for his valuable Map 
of the United States. The counties are alphabeti- 
cally arranged under their respective states, and 
with their relative position indicated. 

With a candid reader it may not be necessaryto 
state, that in a survey so widely extended errors 
must be expected. None will be found that my ut- 
most care could prevent; but unaided as I have al- 
ways been, in the collection of geographical mate- 
rial, the surprise to myself is that there are not more 
serious omissions at least. 

In the boundaries and areas of the states and ter- 
ritories I have used round numbers, unless where 
my data demanded or authorised more precision. 

Before closing this preface, I take the opportunity 
to tender my acknowledgments to Mr. M'Lean, 
Post-Master General; Mr. John Vaughan, Secreta- 
ry to the American Philosophical Society; to Mr. 
Reuben Haines, of Germantown; and to Col. S, H. 
Long, of the Department of Topographical Engi- 
neers. 

WILLIAM DARBY. 

Baltimore, Oct. 18, 1828, 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAP. I. 

GEoeaAPHT, a moral science. Of the United States, a vast 
outline, page 13. History of the United States, knows 
no fabiilous ag-e, 14. Discovery of North America by 
the Cabots, 15. Reasons why England did not sooner 
colonize thjs continent, ibid. First English patent for 
a colony in America, 16. The Italians, their influence 
in discovering and exploring America, ibid. The 
French, early discoveries, 16-20. English grant to 
Sir Humphrey Gilbert, 20; renewed in favour of Sir 
Walter Raleigh, 21. First English colony, ibid; 
proves abortive, 22. Spanish armada, 23. House 
of Valois expires in France, and that of Bourbon 
succeeds, ibid. First French grant for Canada, 25. 
French established in Acadia, 26. Extensive fisheries 
on Newfoundland coast, 27. Florida discovered by 
Juan Ponce de Leon, 28. Vh-ginia founded; and 
Dutch on the Hudson, 29. Plymouth settled, Massa- 
chusetts, New Hampshire, Connecticut, Rhode Isl- 
and — Delaware by the Swedes and Finns; Maryland 
founded, 30. Harvard college founded. New Haven 
founded, Charter of Rhode Island granted, Maine 
granted to Sir Francis Gorges, united to Massachu- 
setts, English Navigation Act, 31. First settlement 
in North Carolina ; New Netherlands taken by the 
EngHsh ; Philips' war in New England, 32. New 
Hampshire and Pennsylvania founded; Revolution in 
England, 33. Yale college at New Haven founded, 
34. First English newspaper in America; Carolihas 
separatedj 35, Paper currency in Pennsylvania, 36. 



b CONTENTS. 

Georgia founded, 37i Stamp Act passed, repealed, 
40. Boston port closed? battle of Lexington? inva- 
sion of Canada, 41. Bourgoyne's army surrenders, and 
treaty between the United States and France, 42. 
Cornwallis surrenders, 44. Peace of 1783, 45. Fe- 
deral Constitution formed; goes into operation, 46. 
Vermont and Kentucky become states, 46. Tennes- 
see becomes a state? Detroit, &c. given up? Transyl- 
vania University founded, 48. Ohio becomes a state, 
and Louisiana ceded to the United States, 49. Non- 
intercourse laws, 50-51. War with Great Britain, 51. 
Operations, 51-54. United States Bank established, 
55. Florida annexed to the United States, ibid. 

CHAP. IL 

United States, position, and boundaries, 56. Extent, 
and natural subdivisions, 57. Atlantic slope, general 
view of, 58. Cape Hatteras, 59-60. Cape Cod, 61-62. 
Monotony of the southern coasts of the United States, 
63. The Appalachian mountains, not a dividing line 
of river systems, 64. Specifically distinct from hills? 
their features, 66-68. Tables of relative height, 68-78. 
Primitive range in the United States, its position and 
extent, 81-82. General and attractive physiognomy 
of the Appalachian regions, 83, 84. 

CHAP. m. 

Geographical view of the southern section of the United 
States, 85. Peninsula of Florida, 85, 86. St. John's 
river of Florida, 87, 88. St. Mary's, 88. St. Ilia, 89. 
Alatamaha, 89, 90. Ossabaw Sound, 91. Savannah 
river, 92. St. Helena Sound, 93. Edistos, North and 
South, 93, 94. Charleston city and basin, 95. Win- 
yau bay, the estuary of Black river, Great Pedee, and 
AVaccamaw rivers, 95. Santee river, 96. Pedee ri- 
ver, 97. Cape Fear river and basin, 98, 99. Onslow 
bay, 99. Capes Lookout and Hatteras, and Neuse ri- 
ver, 99, Pamptico Sound, 99, 100. Basins of Roan- 
oke and Chowan, or confluents of Albemarle Sound, 
101-103. 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAP. IV. 

Geographical view of the middle section of the United 
States, 104. Chesapeake basin, 104, 105. James river 
and branches, 106-108. York and Kappahannock ri- 
vers, 109. Potomac and its branches, 110-112. Pa- 
tuxent river, 113. Patapsco basin and city of Balti- 
more, 113, 114. Eastern slope of Chesapeake basin, 
115, 116. Susquehanna basin, 116-124. Delaware 
basin, 124-127. Lehigh river, 127, 128, Schuylkill, 
128, 129. Atlantic slope of New Jersey, 131, 132. 

CHAP. V. 

Geographical view of the north-eastern section of the 
Atlantic slope of the United States, 133. Basin 
of the Hudson, 133. Hudson river, 134, 135. Sacon- 
dago river, 135. Glenn's Falls, 137. Tide bay of 
Hudson, 137, 138. Mohawk river, 138, 139. Sa- 
condago mountains, 140. Green Mountains, 140. Sub- 
basins of the Hudson, 141-148. Amboy bay, or Ra- 
riton bason, 148-150. Passaic river, 150. Millstone, 
Pompton, and Hackinsack rivers, 151. Croton river, 
152. Manhatten and Staten islands, 153. Long 
Island, 154-157. Long Island sound, 157. Housato- 
nick river, 160. Connecticut river and basin, 161-168. 
Thames river and basin,' 169-171. Narraganset basin, 
171-173. Buzzard's bay, 174. 

CHAP. VI. 

Geographical view of the north-eastern section of the At- 
lantic slope, from Barnstable Isthmus to the mouth of 
St. Lawrence, 175. Peninsula of Cape Cod, 176. 
Bay of Massachusetts, and increase of Atlantic tides, 
176-179. Middlesex canal, 180. Merrimac basin, 
181-184. Piscataqua basin, 184, Saco basin, 185, 
Casco basin, or river Presumscot, 186, Kennebec 
basin, 186. Kennebec river, formed by Androscoggin, 
and Kennebec proper, 187, Androscoggin river, 187. 
Kennebec, 188-189. Penobscot basin, 189. Penobscot 
river, 189. Piscataquis, 190, Union river and Blue Hill 
bay5 Frenchman's bayj Narraguagus,and Pleasant riy- 



8 CONTENTS. 

ers; Chandler's river, and Englishman's bay, 191, Ma- 
chias bay, 192. Schoodic, or St. Croix basin, 193. Pas- 
samaquoddy bay, 194. St. Johns' river of New 
Brunswick and Maine, 194. St. Frangois and Mata- 
waska rivers, 195. Aristook river, 196. j^eninsula 
of Nova Scotia, 197. Bay of Fimdy, 198, 199. 

CHAP. VII. 

Geographical view of St Lawrence basin, 200. Its sub- 
basins, 200. Basinof lake Superior, 200, 201. Lakes 
Huron and Michigan, 202. Canaiian sea compared 
with the Caspian, 203. Table of distances from lake 
Huron to Erie, 205. Lake Erie, 206-208. Falls of 
Niagara, 209-216. Lake Ontario, 217. Table of the 
relative heights of lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, 
Erie, and Ontario, 217. Lower sub-basin, 218. Ba- 
sin of West New York, or Oneida, 219. Seneca river, 
220. Trent river of Upper Canada, 222-224. Gene- 
ral remarks, 224-230. Table of the quantity of wa- 
ter contained in the St. Lawrence basin, 231. St. 
Lawrence river, 232-236. Ottawas river, 234, 235. 
Island and city of Montreal, 235. Stationary distances 
along St. Lawrence, 236-238. Thousand Islands, 240, 
Basin of Champlain, 241, 242. Basin of St. Francis, 
242-244. Chaudiere river, 244. Saguenai river, 245- 
247. Betsiamitis, Breslard, and Black rivers, 247. 
General features of St. Lawrence basin, 248-251. 
Table of the extent and position of the basins of the 
Atlantic slope, from Florida Point to the mouth of St. 
Lawrence river, 252-254. Tables of the area of St. 
Lawrence basin, 255, 256. Summary of the Atlantic 
slope, including the basin of St. Lawrence, 257. 

CHAP. vni. 

Geographical view of the river basins of the United 
States contiguous to the Delta of the Mississippi, 258. 
Basins of Mississippi and St. LaWrence, compared, 
258-261. Sabine river, 262. Calcasiu and Mermen- 
tau rivers, 263. Vermillion river, 264, Atchafalaya 
river, 265. Courtablcau river, 266. Plaquemine ri- 



CONTENTS. 9 

ver, 267. Teche river, 267. Rafts in Atchafalaya, 
269. La Fourche river, 272, 273. Outlet of the 
Mississippi, 274. Iberville and Amite rivers; Pass of 
Manchac, 275, Eigolets, or the outlets of the Pearl 
river, 276-280. Lake Pontchartrain and its confluents 
and outlets, 281. Pascagoula river and sound, 282. 
Mobile bay and basin, 283. Tombigbee river, 283. 
Alabama river, 284-286. Basin of Pensacola, 287, 
288. St. Andrews bay, 289. Chatahooche river and 
confluents, 289, 290. Appalachicola river, 290, 291. 
Cape St. Georg-e, Ocklockonne, St, Marks, and Su- 
wanne rivers, 291, 292. Vacasausa bay, Amasura ri- 
ver, Tampa bayj Charlotte harbour, and Cape Ro- 
mano, 293. Table of the extent and position of the 
preceding, 295. 

CHAP. IX. 

[7%e reader will 'phase, observe that by an error of the press 
Chap. VIII. is repeated at page 296, in place of 
Chap. IX.] 

Geographical view of the great central basin of the Mis- 
sissippi, 296. Table of, 297. Ohio vaUey, 298-308. 
Valley of the Mississippi proper, above the mouth of 
Missouri, 309-313. Lower Mississippi, 313-317. Val- 
ley of Missoui'i, 318-322. Inundation of the Delta of 
the Mssissippi, 323-325. Basin of Columbia, or Ter- 
ritory of Oregon, 326-330. 

CHAP. X. 

Climate of the United States, 331. Thermometrical 
data, ot servations on, 331. M. de Wallenstein quoted, 
332. Volney's View, strictures on, 333. Quarterly 
Journal of Science quoted, 334. Rev. Robert Little 
quoted, 335-338. Regularity of geograpliical struc- 
ture in the great outlines of land, 343. Relative dis- 
tribution of land and water, 345. Laws of climate, 
350. Continents, their structure, 351, Plateau of 
Asia, 351-352. Of Africa, 353. Atlantic ocean, 353- 

354, Greenland, 354. South America, 354, North 
America, 355. Chippewayan system of mountains, 

355. Appalachian svstem of mountains, 356. Central 

2 



10 CONTENTS. 

valley between the two great mountain masses, 356- 
557. Prairies of North America and steppes of Asia 
compared, 358. Atmosphere, a part of the planet, 359. 
Equinoctial current, and currents of the oceans, 360- 
362. Gulf stream, 363. Professor Playfair on the 
prevailing winds of Europe, 371. General course of 
the winds over the Atlantic ocean, 413. Brief meteo- 
rological register, or history of remarkable atmos- 
pheric changes on the eastern continent, 414-420. 
General remarks on cHmate, 420-433. 

List of Tables contained in Chapter X. 
No. 21. — Area of the Southern, Indian, and Pacific 
oceans, 340. 
22. — Atlantic ocean, and connected seas, 340. 
23.— Summary of oceanic area, 341. 
24. — Land area, 341. 
25. — Summary of land and water, 342. 
26 — Land area of the torrid zone, 342. 
27. — Land area of the southern temperate zone, 342. 
28. — Land area of the northern temperate zone, 342. 
29. — Land area of the northern polar circle, 343. 
30. — Land area of the southern polar circle, 343. 
31. — Deflections from the meridians, &c,, 346. 
32. — Height of perpetual snow, 349. 
33. — Degree of longitude, &c., 359. 
34. — Temperature of the sea in both hemispheres, 

364. 
35. — Monthly mean temperature at Santa Cruz, o&5. 
36. — Temperature of air over the Gulf stream, ^QT- 

368. 
37. — Prevalent winds over North Atlantic ocean, 369. 
38. — Temperature and winds at Turin, 370. 
39. — Western winds at Paris, 372. 
40- — Temperature and winds at London, 373. 
41. — Westerly winds in Northamptonshire, 374. 
42. — Temp, and winds at U. S. military posts, 376. 
43.— Weather do. oTl. 

44.— Winds at North American Polar sea, 378. 
45.— Elevation and temp. United States, 379-380. 



CONTENTS. 1 1 

46.— Caloric, winds, &c. Washington City, 382. 

47. — Monthly and annual temperature at Washing- 
ton City, 384. 

48.— Winds at Washington City, 386. 

49. — Meteorological observations at Baltimore, 387 

50. — Temperature near Baltimore, 388. 

51. — Excess of heat and cold at Baltimore, 389. 

52.— Monthly winds do. 390. 

53. — Depth ofrain at Baltimore, 391. 

54. — Temp. Philadelphia, James Young, 392. 

55, — Annual winds at Philadelphia, 393. 

56. — Monthly temperature at Germantown, 394. 

57. — Extremes of temp, at Germantown, 395. 

58. — Winds at Germantown, 396. 

59.— Temp. July, 1828, Washington City, 397. 

60.— Temp. July, 1828, Germantown, 398. 

61. — Summer at Baltimore and Germantown, 399. 

62. — Rain at Germantown, 401. 

63. — Temp, of Philadelphia and New Harmony 
compared, 402. 

64. — Temperature of New Harmony, 403. 

65. — Winds at New Harmony, 404. 

66. — Rain at New Harmony, 405. 

67. — Excess of temp, at New Harmony, 406, 

68. — Temperature at Cincinnati, 407. 

69.— Winds at Cincinnati, 408. 

70. — Temperature Charleston, South Carohna, 409. 

71.— Do do do 410. 

72. — Temp. Richmond, Virginia, 411. 

73.— Winds of the U. S. above N. lat. 35°, 412. 

74.— Winds of U. S. below N. lat. 35°, 413. 

75. — Maximum of cold in Europe, 419. 

76. — Maximum of heat in do 420. 

CHAP. XI. 

Pohtical Geography of the United States. Population 
of, 435. Distributive population, 436. Progressive 
population, 437-441. Observations on population, 
441-43. Comparative population of the new states in 
Mississippi basin, 444. Population of the central ba- 



12 CONTENTS. 

sin, 445. View of the canals and roads of tlie United 
States, 446-480. Canal stocks in England, price of, 
481-2. 

CHAP. XII. 

Geographical description of the individual states and ter- 
ritories. Alabama, 484-87. Arkansas territory, 487- 
91. Connecticut, 491-93. District of Columbia, 494— 
97. Delaware, 497-99. Florida, 499-502. Georgia, 
502-8. Illinois, 508-12. Indiana, 512-16. Kentucky, 
516-21. Louisiana, 522-28. Maine, 528-32. Mary- 
land, 532-37. Massachusetts, 538-42. Michigan ter- 
ritory, 542-47. Mississippi, 547-51. Missouri, 552- 
58. New Hampshire, 558-61. New Jersey, 562-66. 
New York, 566-73. North Carohna, 573-80. Ohio, 
580-88. Pennsylvania, 588-97. Rhode Island, 597- 
600. South Carohna, 600-5. Tennessee, 605-9. Ver- 
mont, 610-^13. Virginia, 613-22. 



mm of m mmuti Btutm. 

CHAPTER I. 

HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

I^s- every occasion where I have been called upon 
to make the estimate, I have considered geography 
as a moral science. The interest we feel in tracing 
the features, developing the resources, and recording 
the improvements of any given portion of the earth, 
must arise from the character of the people who in- 
habit its surface. In this respect, not alone the ter- 
ritory of the United States, but all America, is ac- 
quiring daily more interest to arrest the attention of 
the statesman and philosopher. 

The geography of the United States is a vast out- 
line, tolerably traced, but the shades of colouring- 
remain a void, except in a few instances. The in- 
trinsic value of statistical knowledge can only be 
known from its application in augmenting the sum 
of general prosperity, by pointing out the springs of 
general resource. This invaluable pursuit has only 
recently assumed the character of a science, and, as 
such, is yet confined to a few countries, and is every 
where imperfect. Consequently, important as it 
may be as a moral and physical science, geography 
derives its highest value as an aid to human history. 
In this respect our views of nations are clear and 
decisive in proportion as we possess a comprehen- 
sive knowledge of their locality. 

The accumulation of material for both history and 
geography, has been in America, during the last 
half century, too rapid and massive to admit ade- 
quate arrangement and record. Cities, towns, states. 



14 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

and even empires, are presenting themselves, with 
a rapidity which outstrips the utmost effort of the 
pen or pencil. In the present instance, all that the 
author dared to undertake, was a general sketch of 
either the history or geography of his country; and 
in particular, a mere outline of the former, is all 
that the necessary brevity of " The View" would 
permit. 

" Courage, wisdom, integrity, and honour, are not 
to be measured by the sphere assigned them to act 
in, but by the trials they undergo, and the vouchers 
they furnish: and if so manifested, need neither 
robes nor titles to set them off."* 

The United States as a nation " knows no fabulous 
age;" in scanning its history, every point of outset 
is fixed and certain. The original colonies were, in 
most instances, established under the direct emi- 
gration of men, influenced by motives to action far 
above the ordinary moral incentives to human con- 
duct. 

From the subsequent consequences of such prin- 
ciples, no department of civil history demands from 
mankind such profound attention as the Anglo- Ame- 
rican colonial. In these early establishments, the 
ancient Saxon free institutions were implanted, 
guarded, and flourished, whilst fading or expiring 
in Europe. It affords, to a well-regulated mind, a 
cheerful retrospect, the progress of new-formed so- 
cieties, amongst the members of whom the most ex- 
alted principles of ethics, jurisprudence, and legis- 
lation, were not alone preserved, but received a more 
solid sanction in the hearts of men, from contrast with 
their retrogradation in their pristine seats. 

When America was first discovered, the people 
of Europe and their rulers seem to have, with one 
accord, considered the newly-found regions the pro- 
perty of the first who could disembark on its shores. 

* Benjnmiii Franklin's Historical Review of the Constitution and 
Govei'nmtnt ol' Pennsylvania, p. 5. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 15 

In a struggle for division of so rich a prize, Spain, 
Portugal, England, and France, were the most con- 
spicuous competitors Expeditions were sent out 
under the authority of each of these governments. 
Henry VII., then king of England, sent to America, 
in May 1497, John Cabot, who, with his son Sebas- 
tian, discovered and coasted North America, from 
Newfoundland to the point of Florida. The Cabots 
were the first individuals recorded in history, who, 
under the authority of any European government, 
visited the south-east coasts of North America. 
There still, however, exists strong evidence, that, 
as simple fishermen, the Basques, or Bretons, from the 
north-west part of France, had visited the coasts of 
Greenland and adjacent parts, before any discoveries 
were made of the same places by national authority. 
During the long period which intervened, from the 
voyages of the Cabots to the actual colonization by 
both, the English and French nations seem to have 
preserved a nearly equal pace in the career of dis- 
covery. 

An examination of the intervening history of Eng- 
land will afford solid reasons why the government 
and people of that kingdom did not sooner avail 
themselves of their claims in North America. Un- 
der the Tudors, neither the population nor resour- 
ces of England were adequate to distant colonization, 
or even commercial exertion ; and to physical 
weakness were superadded political and religious 
contention. 

The immense treasures in gold and silver procur- 
ed from America, by the Spaniards, also tended to 
retard the northern nations of Europe from form- 
ing establishments on the opposing part of the newly 
discovered continent. Every nation considered Ame- 
rica as a seat of mines, and when unable to procure 
the precious metals, disregarded every other advan- 
tage. Although, however, slighted nationally. North 
America attracted the individual attention of many 



16 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

Englishmen, in the early part of the sixteenth cen- 
tury. In 1502, Hugh Elliot and Thomas Ashurst, 
merchants of Bristol, with some other associates, 
obtained letters patent from Henry VH., with the 
avowed intention of colonizing the newly discovered 
regions. The original of this patent in Latin, is pre- 
served in Hazard's collections. It was the first En- 
glish governmental grant respecting any part of Ame- 
rica ; but fell useless, no steps having been ever 
taken to carry its provisions into effect. The actual 
want of population at that time, in all Europe, but 
more particularly in the northern parts, opposed an 
insuperable barrier to colonization. In 1500, it is 
rendered probable, from concurrent circumstances, 
that the English crown did not include, under its 
subjection, three millions of people. Nautical skill 
and commercial enterprise were also still more con- 
tracted than were the number of inhabitants. The 
discoverers of North America, under English au- 
thority, were Italians ; no English seaman of that 
age appears to have been competent to tKe execu- 
tion of such an enterprise. A similar remark may 
be extended to Spain ; as nearly all the discoverers 
under that crown were Italians. Hungry and cruel 
Spanish grandees, of the lowest class of their order, 
seized the fruits ; but it was the scientific men of 
Italy, who cleared the path to the new garden of 
Hesperides. 

The French were more attentive to North Ame- 
rica, than were the English at this early period; and 
the former, much sooner than the latter, perceived 
the true source of wealth, offered by the then very 
imperfectly known wilds of the recently discovered 
continent. In 1504, the Breton and Norman fisher- 
men had a regular trade and establislimcnts on New- 
foundland, which at that time included the whole 
coast from Labrador to Florida.* The Bretons and 

* Wlicn the Cabots discovered Noiih Amciiea, they gave to ihc 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 17 

Normans, however, only visited the north-east parts, 
along the coast of the island of Newfoundland and 
vicinity. 

John Denys, a native of Rouen, sailed, in 1506, 
from Honfleur to the gulf of Newfoundland, and on 
his return to France, drew a map of that inland sea, 
its islands, and adjacent shores. 

Denys was followed, in 1508, by Thomas Aubert, 
from Dieppe. The latter was the discoverer of the 
St. Lawrence river, and the country now called 
Lower Canada, On his return to Europe, Aubert 
carried with him some of the native savages. . 

The Baron of St. Lery, in 1524, made some abor- 
tive attempts at colonization in North America. The 
failure of St. Lery's design, and many other adverse 
causes, gave a check to French enterprise, and pre- 
vented actual colonization on the part of that nation 
in New France, for upwards of eighty years after- 
Avards. Though without settlements by land, ne- 
vertheless the French fisheries flourished, and the 
knowledge of the country by that people became 
annually more accurate. 

The events of a voyage made by a Florentine, 

parts they visited the name of Newfoundland, which it retained until 
superseded by that of Virginia, imposed by Queen E\izabeth, in 
1584. At a subsequent period to the discoveries of the Cabots, the 
Spaniards discovered the south west sections of the same coast, and 
named it Florida. Newfou)idland and Florida, therefore, included 
all the coast of North America between the Cuba channel and 
St. Lawrence. The extremes on the Atlantic ocean, still retain 
their original appellations, whilst the inttrmediate space has been 
parcelled, and variously designated. See pages 28, 29. 

It is a real subject of regret, that either Virginia or Florida had 
not prevailed, and been preserved over the m' hole Atlantic coast now 
in the United States. They are both line sonorous names, and ct-r- 
iainly preferable, as general terms, to the awkward expression Unit- 
ed States. Either of the former would have been distinctive ; the 
latter applies vaguely, to any combination of states into one gt-nt ral 
confederdcy, and always demands circumlocution, to reiidtr it» par= 
ticular application definite. 



18 HISTOlllCAL INTRODUCTION. 

John Verrezzana, in the service of Francis I., king 
of France, are very imperfectly known. From the 
scanty records on the subject, it appears that, in 
1524, Verrezzana reached the south-east coast of 
North America, and visited its shores from Florida 
to Nova Scotia. This discoverer was lost, and with 
him, in great part, the notes of his operations. 

Though suspended in their efforts to either colo- 
nize or pursue their researches in America, the views 
of the French were constantly directed towards this 
continent. In 1534, Philip Chabot, admiral of France, 
represented so strongly to the king the multiplied 
advantages which Spain was then deriving from her 
colonies, that James Cartier, of St. Pvlaloes, by royal 
commission, sailed from that port, April 20th, on a 
voyage of discovery, with two small ships and one 
hundred and twenty men. In his first voyage, Car- 
tier sailed round the island of Newfoundland, disco- 
vered and named the Bay des Chaleurs, on the con- 
tinent, and having afterwards reached N. Lat. 51*^, 
on the Labrador coast, returned to Europe. 

In his second voyage, 1535, Cartier penetrated the 
St. Lawrence as high as the island of Hochelaga, 
now Montreal, and having treacherously seized some 
ofthe natives, returned with them to France. Though 
disgraced by his conduct towards the savages of 
America, Cartier appears to have been the first in- 
dividual from the north-west of Europe, who con- 
ceived an idea of the true wealth to be derived from 
the regions he had explored. He represented, in his 
report to the king, the great advantages which were 
offered by the fur trade alone ; however, not having 
gold and silver mines in his list, no notice was taken 
of his representations. 

Nearly forty years had elapsed from the discove- 
ries of the Cabots, before any serious attempt was 
made by the English nation to avail itself of tlie 
claim. In 1536, a gentleman of I^ondun, at liis own 
risk, though countenanced by the king, Henry VIIL, 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 19 

undertook a voyage to America. This adventurer, 
by the name of Hore, v/as accompanied by one hun- 
dred and twenty persons, of whom twenty-iive or 
thirty were men of education and character. Here's 
expedition was, in a peculiar manner, unfortunate. 
After haAang visited Cape Breton and some other 
places in the gulf of St. Lawrence, the party were 
reduced to the utmost extremity of want and wretch- 
edness ; many were literally starved. Falling in 
with a French fishing vessel, they seized her, and 
took from her as much provision as enabled the sur- 
vivors to return to Europe. The facts attending 
this voyage, it has been observed, prove, that the 
English were then utterly ignorant of the inexhaus- 
tible stores of fish to be found in those seas ; and 
that upwards of thirty years after a regular fishery 
had been established by the French, the En- 
glish had not attempted a participation in that rich 
source of wealth and subsistence. From the sequel 
it will be seen, that strong reasons concur to support 
the conclusion, that the voyage of Hore contributed 
to turn the immediate attention of the English nation 
to the American seas. In 1548, the English fisheries 
had become an object of national legislation. In that 
year an act of parliament was passed, to prohibit 
the exaction, from English fishermen and mariners 
going in the service of the fishery at Newfoundland, 
of money, fish, or other reward, by any officer of 
the admiralty, under any pretext whatever. This 
was the first act of the English parliament relative 
to America.* 

Cartier made his third voyage in 1541. Similar 
to that of England, the French government were in- 
attentive to the value of the recently discovered 
territories in America ; but many respectable indi- 
viduals of both nations renewed, from time to time. 



* Hackliiyt, vol. i. p. 53 1— iii, p> 131, 132. Chalmers, vol. 
Hulraes' Aunah, vol. i. p. 94. 



20 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

projects of permanent colonization. The third voy- 
age of Cartier was undertaken at the expense of 
Francis de la Roque, lord of Roberval, a gentleman 
of Picardy. Roberval was appointed by the king 
of France captain-general and viceroy of Canada 
and its dependencies, with full powers. Cartier, as 
deputy captain-general, was sent out by Roberval. 
The former, on August 23d, 1541, landed on New- 
foundland, where he was, by appointment, to meet 
his principal. Roberval not arriving immediately, 
Cartier sailed alone to Canada, where he remained 
near two years, and built a temporary fort, near 
where Quebec now stands. In the mean time, Ro- 
berval not arriving in America, Cartier sailed on his 
return to Europe. Meeting Roberval on the coast 
of Newfoundland, Cartier disregarded his orders, 
and continued his voyage. Roberval proceeded to 
Canada, where he spent the winter of 1542-3, and 
returned to Europe in the spring of 1543. Francis 
I., the patron of Roberval, died in 1547, and with 
him terminated, for upwards of fifty years, any at- 
tempt at settlement in North America by the French. 
Unaided by his government, Roberval, accompanied 
by his brother, left France, with an intention to pro- 
ceed to Canada, and was never again heard of. 

So many disasters, and the distracted condition of 
France, under the expiring house of Valois, pre- 
vented any effective attention of the nation to Cana- 
da, until 1598. In that year, the Marquis de la 
Roche received from Henry IV. a commission to 
conquer Canada, and other countries not possessed 
by any Christian prince. 

Twenty years before the date of the grant to De 
la Roche, Sir Humphrey Gilbert had received one 
of a similar import from Queen Elizabeth. In 1583, 
after repeated disappoiiilments, Gilbert sailed to the 
ishmd of Nevvfoundhind, of which he took formal 
possession. On tlic 29lh of August, his largest ves- 
sel, with all its crew, was lost near Cape Race; and 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 21 

on his voyage towards England, this excellent but 
ill-fated adventurer was himself, with all his crew, 
lost on the 9th of September. 

The grant of Gilbert was renewed in 1584, on May 
25th, in favour of his maternal brotlier, Sir Walter 
Raleigh. The grant of 1584 expressly gave author- 
ity to Raleigh, to discover and conquer such heathen- 
ish and barbarous lands, as are not possessed by any 
Christian prince or people. Under the authority 
of Raleigh, Philip Amadas and Arthur Barlow sail- 
ed from England, in order to explore that part of 
North America called, by the Spaniards, Florida. 
Passing through the West Indies, Amadas and Bar- 
low having reached the American coast, and exa- 
mined its bays and rivers as far north as the mouth 
of Roanoke, returned to Europe in September 1584. 
The report of their discoveries was so seductive as 
to induce the queen to give the name of Virginia to 
the new acquisition to her dominions. Virginia con- 
tinued for upwards of fifty years afterwards to de- 
signate in the English maps the whole coast from 
Florida to Labrador, and, except the island which 
still bears that name, superseded the term Newfound- 
land, imposed by the Cabots, 

Richard Grenvilleas general, and Ralph Lane as 
governor, were deputed, with seven ships, to pro- 
ceed to Virginia, by Sir Walter Raleigh, in 1585. 
The object of this expedition was to plant a colony. 
The fleet left Plymouth April 9th, and on the 25th 
of August reached the mouth of Roanoke, the point 
of destination. Governor Lane was left there with 
one hundred and ten persons, to commence settle- 
ment, and Grenville returned to England. This was 
the first attempt to form an actual establishment on 
the continent of America, made by the English na- 
tion, and failed; as in 1586, those of the colonists who 
had survived were found by Sir Francis Drake, in 
so deplorable a situation, as to induce that command- 
er, with the written request of Governor Lane, to 



22 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

convey them back to England, Some feeble exer- 
tions were subsequently made to, restore the estab- 
lishment, but were abortive. A few days after the 
departure of Sir Francis Drake, Grenville arrived 
with three vessels at Roanoke; but finding the place 
abandoned, left fifteen men to retain possession, and 
sailed to Europe. Early in 1587, Sir Walter Raleigh, 
anxious to preserve his colony, sent out three ves- 
sels and a company of one hundred and fifty people, 
incorporated under the title of " The county of Ra- 
leigh in Virginia," and with John White constituted 
as governor. The legislative authority was vested 
hi the governor and twelve assistants. 

In one of his voyages Sir Richard Grenville had 
discovered the mouth of Chesapeake bay, into which 
the colony of 1587 was directed to enter ; but by 
some unexplained management of Fernando, their 
principal naval commander, these devoted people 
were landed on Roanoke island on the 22d of July. 
The new colonists found the bones of one man in 
one of the houses left by Lane's party; deer was 
found feeding, and melon vines clambering along 
the walls of the deserted buildings ; but the fifteen 
men left by Grenville were gone for ever ! a melan- 
choly presage of the fate of the present colony. 

On the 27th of August 1587, the governor sailed 
to England in quest of supplies ; but of the wretch- 
ed people left behind, no trace was ever since known. 
Thus closed the efforts of Sir Walter Raleigh, as to 
American colonization. No period in the sixteenth 
century could have been more inauspicious to colo- 
nization, than 1587. The nation was then at war 
with Spain ; without disciplined troops ; a navy 
scarcely deserving a name, when contrasted with the 
formidable fleet of its adversary ; and the duke of 
Parma encamped at Dunkirk, with an army of fifty 
thousand veterans. In such a posture of affairs, 
neither ships, seamen, and above all, experienced 
naval commanders, could be permitted to engage in 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 23 

any enterprise except national defence. Such men 
as Howard earl of Effingham, the two Drakes, 
Hawkins, Frobisher, and Sir Walter Raleigh, were 
too precious at home, to have them engaged in any- 
distant expedition. The danger was imminent and 
pressing; and though absolute conquest, it is pro- 
bable, could not have crowned the invaders, if their 
fleets and armies could have reached the English 
shores, yet such a shock must have produced lasting 
national deterioration. The Armada entered the En- 
glish channel in May, where, battered by storms, and 
harassed by the light vessels and superior seamanship 
of the English, it was finally defeated, and almost an- 
nihilated. When danger is past, nations, like indi- 
viduals, retain the impression, and continue measures 
of precaution, and stand ready to oppose a recur- 
rence. This feeling of apprehension fully accounts 
for the neglect of a far distant colony, eighteen years 
after the defeat of the Armada. 

In France, the house of Valois expired in 1589, by 
the death of Henry IH., who was assassinated at 
Orleans, and Henry de Bourbon, as Henry IV., suc- 
ceeded to the throne. A long series of civil and re- 
ligious tumult was gradually followed by peace and 
prosperity, in France. As the arts of agriculture 
and commerce revived, individual enterprise was 
roused, and Canada again assumed its share of na- 
tional attention. The American fisheries, about the 
termination of the 16th century, had commenced to 
engage the avidity of all western Europe, and after 
an interval of more than forty years, a French fleet, 
in 1591, sailed from St. Maloes to Canada. The 
same year George Drake, an Englishman, sailed up 
the St. Lawrence, and on his return published an ac- 
count of his voyage. Drake's representations pro- 
duced strong and immediate effects. Sylvester 
Wyatt, in 1594, found, amongst vessels of different 
other nations, above fifty English in St. Lawrence. 

Under the grant from Henry IV., the Marquis 



24 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

de la Roche sailed from France to Canada, with a 
colony of convicts. Success corresponded with the 
moral material of his crews ; the plan proved abor- 
tive; De la Roche regained his native country to die 
of a broken heart. M. de Chauvin followed De la 
Roche in 1600, and was the first individual who im- 
ported Canadian furs into France. Chauvin made a 
second voyage in 1601 ; and whilst preparing for a 
third in 1603, died suddenly in France. 

The impression on the public mind in England, by 
the fatal issue of all attempts made under Raleigh's 
patent, and by the oppressive war with Spain, were 
imperceptibly effaced, and in 1602, Bartholomew 
Gosnold had the spirit to attempt, and the honour to 
produce a revival of English adventure to America. 
In the summer of that year, Gosnold, in a small ves- 
sel with about thirty men, reached the shores of what 
is now Massachusetts. This active naval officer 
left England, by consent of Sir Walter Raleigh and 
his associates, and attempted a colony on Elizabeth 
islands. The stores and men were landed, but their 
obvious weakness created discontent and fear ; the 
enterprise was relinquished, and the little colony 
re-embarked. This was the first attempt made by 
any European nation to obtain settlement in what is 
now designated New England. 

American colonization, at this period, was sup- 
ported by the able pen of Richard Hackluyt, who 
entered with zeal and sound judgment into the in- 
vestigation of plans of discovery and settlement. 
By the active influence of this gentleman and others, 
and permission of Sir Walter Raleigh, the mayor 
and aldermen, and some wealthy merchants of Bris- 
tol, fitted out a small vessel of fifty tons, the Speed- 
well, and a bark of twenty-six tons, called the Disco- 
verer, both commanded by Martin Pring. The ob- 
ject of this voyage was to discover and examine, 
more effectually than had been hitherto done, the 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 25 

northern shores of Virginia.* Pring sailed from 
Milford Haven, April 10th, 1603, and reached the 
American coast amongst the islands of Penobscot 
bay. After ranging the shores to Massachusetts bay, 
Pring returned to Europe in August. 

At the same period in which Pring was employed 
on the northern section of Virginia, Bartholomew 
Gilbert visited the more central parts, in search of 
the lost colony of Sir Walter Raleigh. Gilbert made 
the coast between Hudson and Delawarebays, about 
N. Lat. 40, and rashly going on shore with four of 
his principal men, were all destroyed by the savages. 
The fate of their leaders intimidated the surviving 
crew, who immediately set sail for Europe, without 
having, in any manner, fulfilled the objects of their 
voyage. 

November 3d, 1603, an event occurred, which 
places in a strong light the vagaieness of English and 
French claims in North America. Henry IV. grant- 
ed to Pierre du Gast sieur du Monts, a patent for 
that American territory extending from N. Lat. 40*^ 
to 46°, with a commission of lieutenant general of 
that portion of country; and with power to conquer, 
colonize, and rule it, and to christianize the natives. 
The king of France, soon after, granted to this offi- 
cer and his associates a monopoly of the fur and 
peltry trade, in the province of Acadia and Gulf of 
St. Lawrence. In the same year of Du Monts' pa- 
tent, Samuel Champlaine, a native of Brouage in 
France, sailed up the St. Lawrence river, and made 
many extensive and important discoveries. 

The fisheries around Newfoundland had already 
become highly valuable ; more than two hundred 
sail of vessels and above ten thousand men were en- 
gaged in that business. 

* Now New England. It has been shown, that in the early pe- 
riods of English colonization in North America, the name of Vir< 
ginia was extended indefinitely. See p. 17. 



26 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

The Sieur du Monts, with Champlaine as his pi- 
lot, and attended by M. Poutrincourt and a number 
of other volunteer adventurers of respectability, 
embarked in two vessels for America. He made 
first the coast of Nova Scotia, then Acadia, and an- 
chored in Port Rosignol, now Liverpool. Coasting 
round Cape Sable, the imm.ense bay of Fundy was 
explored. Poutrincourt fixed his residence at N. 
Lat. 44° 30', where, on a fine bay, he established a 
village, to which he gave the name of Port Roy- 
al. This place is now the town of Annapolis, and was 
the first French settlement in North America. 

By the joint exertions of Du Monts and Cham- 
plaine, the rivers, bays, and inlets of both sides of 
the bay of Fundy, and part of Maine, were disco 
vered during this voyage. Du Monts wintered 
1604-5, at the mouth of the Schoodick, now St. 
Croix, on a small island, at present the north-east 
limit of the United States, on the Atlantic coast. 

In 1605, the seat of the French colonial govern- 
ment, if it then deserved the title, was fixed at Port 
Royal. This was two years before the establish- 
ment of the English colony at Jamestown, and four 
before the French settlement at Quebec. The two 
nations were each, however, emulous of discovery 
and colonization. The Earl of Southampton and 
Lord Arundel, in 1605, fitted out a small vessel to 
attempt a south-west passage, and gave the com- 
mand to George Weymouth, who appears, from his 
operations, to have had, even for that period, a very 
inaccurate knowledge of the North American coast. 
He made land in about N. Lat. 41° 30', and coasting 
thence north, discovered the mouth of a large river, 
supposed to be the Penobscot, up which he sailed 
for some distance, and in July set sail on his return 
to England. 

One hundred and nine years had now elapsed 
since the discoveries first made on the south-east 
coast of North America, by the Cabots. Though 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 27 

England and France, in the interim, occasionally 
prosecuted voyages of discovery, and though both 
nations, in the' beginning of the I7th century, pur- 
sued their fisheries with activity, neither, if we ex- 
cept the trifling French port at Port Royal, had a 
single fortress or factory on shore. It may be noticed 
that, as early as 1577, the fisheries employed 
150 French vessels, 100 from Spain, 50 from Eng- 
land, and 50 from Portugal. According to Joseph 
Childs, the Newfoundland fisheries, as those on the 
North American coast were designated, then em- 
ployed 10,000 seamen. The English nation, des- 
tined ultimately to become the ruling power in that 
part of the North American seas, islands, and con- 
tinent, now the United States and Canada, were, 
during the 17th and the early part of the 18th cen- 
tury, much less active than its rivals, particularly 
France. At, and for a century before, the epoch of 
actual colonization, English enterprise was in a great 
part exhausted in abortive attempts to find a north- 
west passage to China and India. The rage for dis- 
covering mines of the precious metals, was then also 
at its height. Rational projects of colonization, 
founded on a commercial and agricultural basis, had 
not been then conceived by any nation of Europe, 
much less by England. 

Local, domestic, and political causes were, how- 
ever, most efficacious in preventing England and 
France from emulating Spanish and Portuguese en- 
terprise in Anaerica. In England, the long, vigor- 
ous, successful, and politic administration of Eliza- 
beth, was, with all its beneficial effects, inadequate 
to heal all the wounds inflicted by a century of an- 
archy, civil war, or misgovernment which preceded 
her reign. The resources of France and the chi- 
valrous gallantry of its people, were employed, dur- 
ing almost the whole of the century, in either wars 
of ambition, national defence, or civil tumult. Hen- 
ry IV., as late as 1600, had merely succeeded in se- 



28 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

curing his crown by force of arms, and had yet ob- 
taiiied little leisure to cultivate the arts of peace. 

In both nations, finances, able seamen, and com- 
mercial knowledge were wanting ; and to these 
moral were superadded physical impediments to fo- 
reign colonization, arising from deficiency of popu- 
lation. Though thus retarded, nevertheless, the 
germ of national force subsisted, and the spirit to 
give that force effect, was annually gaining intelli- 
gence by means of the press, and preparing for that 
long and embittered rivalry in America, which gave 
ascendancy to English over French power on this 
continent. 

At the epoch of actual colonization in North Ame- 
rica by the English, the entire coast of this conti- 
nent, from Labrador to Cape Florida, was known 
by two general names, Newfoundland and Florida. 
When the Cabots made their discoveries, during 
the last years of the 15th century, they imposed the 
name of Newfoundland on the coast which they vi- 
sited. This term was perpetuated in English books 
and maps during great part of the 16th century, and 
was gradually, by the imposition of other names for 
sectional subdivisions, restricted to the island still 
known as Newfoundland. (See page 17.) 

On the second of April, 1512, Juan Ponce de Le- 
on, a Spaniard, discovered the coast of North Ame- 
rica from the West Indies, and imposed upon his 
newly discovered region the name of Florida. This 
term originated from the circumstance of De Leon 
having descried land on Palm Sunday ; " Pasqua 
Florida," in the Spanish language. Florida became 
general to designate the south-east coast of North 
America, not only in Spanish, but in the geographi- 
cal works of the south of Europe. No definite limit 
separated the Newfoundland of English from the 
Florida of Spanish and Italian geography. The 
latter like the former slowly yielded to other sec- 
tional terms, and now is confined, and perpetuated 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 29 

to designate, the south-east subdivision of the United 
States. 

Raleigh's patent of March 25th, 1584, being va- 
cated by his subsequent attainder, a number of gen- 
tlemen, instigated principally by Mr. Hackluyt, ob- 
tained, by petition addressed to James I., a patent, 
dated April 10th, 1606, for that part of North Ame- 
rica extending from north lat. 34° to 45°. As the 
name Virginia, given by Queen Elizabeth, had al- 
ready in a great measure superseded that of New- 
foundland, the former was adopted in the patent of 
James I, The immense zone of 14 degrees of lati- 
tude was subdivided into . two, North Virginia and 
South Virginia, and granted to two distinct compa- 
nies. 

The southern, named the first colony, was granted 
to what was then called the London Company, and 
the northern to the Plymouth Company. 

Such were the preliminary steps which led to a 
system of colonization, the most important in histo- 
ry, which has long since produced the United States, 
and prepared the foundation of another nation in 
Canada. The brevity of this view precludes the 
insertion of more than a simple chronological series 
of events, from the original settlement in Virginia, 
under the patent of 1606, up to the organization of 
the territory of Florida, 1821, and fixing the existing 
ratio of representation, 1822, of course establishing 
the actual political condition of the United States. 

1607 April. First effective settlement of the English 
in America, at Jamestown, Virginia. 

1610 Dutch form settlements on the Hudson. 

1611 An abandonment of the colony of Virginia 
prevented by the timely arrival of Lord De 
la Ware. 

1612 Second charter of Virginia. 

16 1 S Marriage of Pocahontas to Mr. Rolfe — a most 
propitious era in the history of Virginia; this, 
c 2 



30 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

guardian angel of the colony had saved the 
life of Captain Smith, and scattered peace and 
security around his dwelling. 

1619 First general assembly called in Virginia. 

1620 Plymouth settled; the first colony established 
in Massachusetts, and the second English co- 
lony in America ; African slaves first intro- 
duced into Virginia. 

1621 New Netherlands, now New-York, granted 
by the States General to the West India Com- 
pany of Holland; New Hampshire granted 
to Gorges and Mason. 

1623 Settlements began at Piscataqua ; and Fort 

Orange, now Albany, founded. 
1625 Government of Virginia vested in the crown 

of England. 

1627 Delaware planted by the Swedes and Fins. 

1628 Massachusetts granted to Henry BoswelL 
Plymouth company erect trading houses on 
Connecticut river. John Endicot arrives in 
Massachusetts with a new body of settlers. 

1629 Boston founded. Wheelwright's grant from 
the Indians. Grant to Mason by the Plymouth 
Company of part of what is now called Maine. 

1632 Charter of Maryland granted by Charles, I., 
with equal privileges to all Christians. 

1633 Severe penal laws passed in Virginia against 
dissenters. First settlement of Connecticut 
at Hartford. 

1634 Charter of Plymouth annulled by the crown. 
Contests respecting limits between Connecti- 
cut and New Netherlands. First effective 
colony of Maryland planted at St.- Mary's. 

1635 John Winthrop governor of Connecticut. 
Gorges sold New Hampshire to Mason. 

1636 Colony of Providence founded by Roger Wil- 
liams. 

163/ War in Connecticut with, and ruin of, the Pe- 
quods. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 31 

1638 Harvard College, now Cambridge Universi- 
ty, founded. Colony of New Haven founded. 
Rhode Island settled by Coddington. Contest 
between Connecticut and Nev/ Netherlands. 

1639 Written constitutions formed by Connecticut 
and New Haven. Privileges of Virginia 
restored to the colony. Maine granted to 
Sir Francis Gorges. First English printing 
press in America founded at Cambridge, 
Massachusetts. 

1642 Kieft, governor of New Netherlands, expel- 
led the English from the Delaware. 

1643 Charter of Rhode Island granted to Roger 
Williams. Massachusetts, Connecticut, and 
New Haven unite for mutual defence against 
the Indians. 

1650 Boundaries between Massachusetts and Con- 
necticut fixed. First constitution of Mary- 
land formed. Carolina founded by emigrants 
from Virginia. 

1651 Parliament of England infringe the privileges 
of Maryland. Dutch built a fort at Newcas- 
tle, Delaware, and erect trading houses on 
Delaware river, 

1652 Maine submits to Massachusetts, First Ame- 
rican mint established in Massachusetts. Vir- 
ginia submits to Cromwell. 

1653 New Hampshire claimed by the heirs of Ma- 
son. Violent disputes between Connecticut 
and New Netherlands. 

1654 English navigation act rigidly enforced in 
Virginia. 

1655 Swedes on the Delaware submit to the go- 
vernment of New Netherlands, under gover- 
nor Stuy vesant. 

1656 Fendal's insurrection in Maryland. 

1659 Royal government restored in Virginia. 

1660 New Hampshire adjudged to Mason's heirs 
by Charles IL 



32 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

1661 Settlements made by emigrants from New 
England, near Cape Fear river in North Ca- 
rolina. Laws of England adopted in Vir- 
ginia. 

1662 Church of England established by law, by 
an Act of Assembly, in Virginia. Charter of 
Connecticut granted. Authority of Calvert 
restored in Maryland. 

1663 Lord Clarendon received a patent of that 
part of North America between N. lat. 31° 
and 36°. 

1664 New Netherlands conquered by the English, 
and granted, with great part of what is now 
New Jersey, Delaware, and Pennsylvania, to 
the Duke of York, by his brother Charles II. 
New Jersey conveyed by the Duke of York 
to Beverley and Carteret. 

1665 Massachusetts had 4000 enrolled militia. 
Cities of Albany and New- York incorporated. 
Connecticut and New Haven united. Go- 
vernment of Rhode Island outlaws the Qua- 
kers. 

1667 Constitution of Carolina formed. New Jer- 
sey becomes a distinct province. 

1669 First assembly of Carolina. 

1670 First settlement in what is now South Caro- 
lina, under Mr. Locke's constitution. 

1673 First parliament of Carolina meets. Dutch 
reconquer New York, which is restored to 
England by treaty the ensuing year. 

1675 Destructive war with the Indians under Phi- 
lip, against whom are united Massachusetts, 
Plymouth, New Hampshire and Connecticut. 
Insurrection in Virginia against the royal au- 
thority: the colony contained a population of 
50,000. 

1676 War with the Indians in New-England ended 
by the defeat and death of Philip. Rebellion 
jn Virginia under Bacon. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 33 

West Jersey claimed by the Duke of York. 
Quakers settle at Burlington. Maine pur- 
chased from Gorges by Massachusetts. 
Commercial imports into New-York amount 
to 50,000 pounds colonial currency. 
New Hampshire separated from Massachu- 
setts, and made a separate colony. 
Charleston in South Carolina founded, and 
made the seat of government. Naturalization 
act in Virginia. Government of West Jersey 
usurped by Andros, governor of New York, 
and restored same year. First assembly of 
New Hampshire met at Portsmouth. 
Patent for Pennsylvania granted to William 
Penn, and first colony under, arrives. 
Delaware and New Jersey, with Pennsylva- 
nia, under the government of William Penn. 
First frame of Pennsylvania government form- 
ed. 

Charter of Massachusetts vacated by quo 
toarranto. New frame of government formed 
in Pennsylvania. Printing presses forbidden 
by the royal governor in Virginia. 
Quo warranto issued against the charter of 
Rhode Island, and a similar writ against Con- 
necticut. 

Quo warranto issued against New Jersey. 
Andros appointed royal governor of New 
England. 

Revolution in England, expulsion of the Stew- 
arts, a most desirable event in the Anglo- 
American colonies. 

First paper money issued by Massachusetts. 
Schenectady in New York destroyed by the 
French and Indians. Government of Mary- 
land resumed by the crown. New Hamp- 
shire united to Massachusetts. 
New charter of Massachusetts, including 
Maine, granted by William and Mary. As- 
sembly of New York again convened. 



34 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTIOJf. 

1692 Witchcraft madness in Massachusetts. Con- 
necticut and Rhode Island resume their char- 
ters by permission of William III, Univer- 
sity of Virginia incorporated by charter. — 
Treaty between New York and the Five Na- 
tions of Indians. Pennsylvania made subject 
to New York, by the king of England, who 
seizes the government of Delaware. New 
Hampshire irrevocably separated from Mas- 
sachusetts. Protestant religion established in 
Maryland by law. 

1693 Locke's frame of government in Carolina ab- 
rogated, and one formed agreeable to char- 
ter. William and Mary College in Virgi- 
nia founded. 

1694 William Penn restored t© his rights over 
Pennsylvania and Delaware. 

1695 Rice planting introduced into Carolina. 

1696 Third frame of gevernment in Pennsylvania 
adopted. City of New York contains 6,000 
persons. 

1698 Assembly of Connecticut separated into two 
houses. 

1699 Annapolis becomes the seat of government of 
Maryland, and has remained so until the pre- 
sent time. Duty on slaves imported into Vir- 
ginia imposed. 

1700 Act of Assembly of New York makes it pun- 
ishable with death for any popish priest who 
should enter that colony. Grant of lands to 
William Penn made by the Susquehannah 
Indians. Episcopacy introduced into Penn- 
sylvania. 

1701 Yale College at New Haven founded. — 
Rhode Island contains 10,000; Ncav York 
30,000; New .Tersey 15,000; Maryland 25,000; 
Virginia 60,000. Government of New Jersey 
surrendered to Queen Anne ; East and West 
Jersey united. New. charterer frame of go- 



HlSrORICAL INTRODUCTION. S5 

vernment for Pennsylvania granted by Wil- 
liam Penn. Philadelphia incorporated, and 
Delaware separated from Pennsylvania. 
Duty of 41. imposed on every negro imported 
into Massachusetts. 

First Anglo-American newspaper, the Boston 
News Letter, published at Boston. Tonnage 
duty on foreign vessels imposed in Rhode 
Island. 

Assembly of Pennsylvania refuses to pass mi- 
litia laws. French and Spaniards besiege 
Charleston, but are repulsed with great loss 
Paper money emitted in New York. Bills of 
credit emitted in New Jersey. 
Palatines from Germany settle on the Roan- 
oke, and other German emigrants in New- 
York. New England colonies harassed by 
the French and Indians. Palatines from 
Kresheim found Germantown near Philadel- 
phia. 

Virginia divided into parishes, and the clergy 
given a regular salary by law. Dreadful 
massacre in Carolina by the savages. Alba- 
ny contains 1000 inhabitants. 
Boundaries between Connecticut and Massa- 
chusetts arranged. 

Spotswood first crosses the Apalachian moun 
tains, from Virginia to the valley of Ohio. 
Y^amassee Indians attack Charleston, and are 
repulsed. 

Government of Maryland restored to Lord 
Baltimore after having been usurped by the 
crown twenty-six years. 
The shipping of Massachusetts employs 
3,493 sailors. Paper money issued in New 
Hampshire. 

Proprietary government in Carolina abro- 
gated, and the base laid for an entire separa- 
tion of the colony into North and South Caro- 
lina. First presbyterian church founded in 



36 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

the city of New York. First newspaper in 
Pennsylvania, the Weekl)^ Mercury. 

1720 First royal governor of North Carolina. 
Trade from New York to Canada forbidden 
by act of Assembly of the former colony. 
New England, particularly Maine, severely 
harassed by the Indians. 

1721 Inoculation for the small pox introduced into 
Massachusetts. Treaty with the Indians 
made by North Carolina. 

1 722 Oswego in New York founded, A population 
of 94,000 in Massachusetts. 

1723 First paper currency in form of bills of credit 
issued, and made a legal tender in Pennsylva- 
nia. Beaufort in South Carolina incorpo- 
rated. 

1724 Bills to the amount of 30,000/. emitted in 
Pennsylvania. 

1726 After a most distressing war with the savages, 
Maine makes peace. New Hampshire had 
already formed a treaty the previous year, 
Massachusetts receives from England an ex- 
planatory charter regulating the governor's 
authority. 

1727 New Hampshire adopts a constitution of go- 
vernment. Fort erected at Oswego. 

1729 Quakers and baptists relieved from pay- 
ing the regular clergy in Connecticut. — 
Trade between New York and Canada re- 
stored. Emigrants to the number of 6000 
come from Europe to Pennsylvania. Caro- 
lina permanently divided into North Caroli- 
na and South Carolina. 

1730 Massachusetts supposed to contain 120,000 
inhabitants ; 20,000 militia and 5,000 sailors. 
Treaty between South Carolina and the 
Cherokees. Rhode Island contained a popu- 
lation of about 18,000, of which 1,650 were 
negroes. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. v>7 

1731 Boundary between New York and Connecti- 
cut fixed by commissioners. Philadelphia 
contains 12,000 inhabitants, and the colony- 
supposed to employ 6,000 tons of shipping. 

1732 Georgia founded by General Oglethorpe, un- 
der patent from George IJ, Boundary be- 
tween Delaware and Maryland fixed, as also 
that between Maryland and Pennsylvania. 
Tobacco made a legal tender in Maryland. 

1733 First colony of Georgia established ; treaty 
between Georgia and the Creeks, and Savan- 
nah founded. First newspapers published in 
New York and Rhode Island. 

1735 Wilmington in Delaware founded. Oppres- 
sive royal government over New York. De- 
structive insurrection of the negroes of South 
Carolina. 

1736 Colony of Highlanders arrive in Georgia. 
Trade of Maryland employs 130 sail of ves- 
sels ; Virginia and Maryland exporting 
210,000 lbs. of tobacco. In Pennsylvania 211 
vessels entered and 215 cleared. 

1738 The first Governor of New Jersey indepen- 
dent of New York, Lewis Morris. 

1739 Virginia suifered severely from her co-opera- 
tion with England in an unsuccessful expedi- 
tion to Carthagena. Boundaries between 
Massachusetts and New Hampshire fixed, 
and in the ensuing year, 1740, confirmed, by a 
decree of the privy council in England. 

1740 Unsuccessful expedition from South Carolina 
against St. Augustine. 

1741 Benning Wentworth, first Governor of New 
Hampshire separate from Massachusetts. 
Dangerous conspiracy of the negroes in New 
York defeated. Moravians found Bethlehem 
on the Lehigh, Pennsylvania. 

1742 Treaty of Philadelphia with the Six Nations, 
who release a large tract of land on both 



o» HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

sides of the Siisquehannah. Spaniards from 
Florida invade Georgia, but are repulsed. Ncav 
form of government in Georgia. Massachu- 
setts supposed to have a population of 160,000. 

1744 Maine contained 2485 men on the militia 
rolls. 

1745 Claim of Mason's heirs, in New Hampshire, 
adjusted. Massachusetts supplies for an ex- 
pedition against Louisburg, 3250 ; Connec- 
ticut, 500 ; Rhode Island, 300 ; Pennsylvania, 
4,000/. for provisions. 

1746 Massachusetts embodies a force of 3500 to 
act with the British in an expedition against 
Canada ; Connecticut raised for the same 
purpose 1000 ; New Jersey 500 ; Pennsylva- 
nia 400 ; Maryland 300. 

1747 Indigo to the amount of 200,000 lbs. exported 
from South Carolina. Village of Saratoga 
destroyed by the savages. 

1748 Newark college removed to Princeton, New 
Jersey. 

1749 The Indians of Maine submit to the authori- 
ty of the colony. Grants first made by New 
Hampshire to settlers in Vermont. Vessels in 
Pennsylvania entered 303, cleared 291. 

1750 Emigrants to the number of 4300 from Ger- 
many, and 1000 from Great Britain, arrive in 
Pennsylvania. Connecticut estimated to con- 
tain a population of 100,000. 

1753 Exports from Pennsylvania, for three years, 
647,317/. Philadelphia contains a population 
of 18,000. 

1754 Hostilities renewed with the Indians by 
Maine, Massachusetts and New Hampshire. 
The joint exports of Virginia and Maryland 
amount to 632,574/. and the imports to 356,776/. 
Major, afterwards General Washington, given 
the command of a Virginia regiment, which 
he marched towards the Ohio ; was at first 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 39 

successful, but opposed by a superior force, 
was compelled to capitulate. Cotton first 
exported from South Carolina. 
] 755 General judicial court established in Georgia. 
Indians cede an extensive territory to North 
Carolina. Convention of colonial governors 
meet. Maryland by actual enumeration con- 
tains a population of 108,000. Fort Edward 
on Hudson river. New York, built. Rhode 
Island contains a population of 35,939, and 
New Hampshire 34,000. General Braddock 
defeated and slain by the French and Indians 
near Pittsburg. 

1756 Fortifications erected along the frontier of 
Georgia. Fort on Tennessee river built. Fort 
Oswego, New York, taken and destoyed by 
the French. 

1757 City of New York contained a population of 
12,000. 

1758 Exported from Virginia 70,000 hogsheads of 
tobacco. Treaty of Easton, Pennsylvania, 
with the Indians. British army under Gene- 
ral Abercrombie defeated with great loss by 
the French at Ticonderoga. A force of 5000 
men raised in Connecticut to invade Canada ; 
7000 raised for a similar purpose in Massa- 
chusetts. 

1759 Ticonderoga, Niagara, and Pittsburg taken by 
the British. 

1760 Bills of credit emitted in Georgia. War on 
the frontiers of North Carolina with the In- 
dians. Counties of Lincoln and Cumberland, 
Maine, formed . 

1761 War continues between the two Carolinas 
and the Cherokees. The Penobscot Indians 
in Maine submit. 

1762 Nov. Secret treaty between France and 
Spain, by which Louisiana was ceded by the 
former to the latter power. 



40 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION, 

IT 63 The peninsula between the Alatamaha and 
St. Mary's made part of Georgia. Popula- 
tion of North Carolina 95,000 ; of Virginia 
170,000; of New Jersey 100,000; of Connec- 
ticut 141,000. New York exports to the 
value of 54,000/., and imports 238,500/. 
Maryland contains a population of 70,000. 
Joint commerce of Virginia and Maryland 
amounted in exports to 642,300/. in imports 
555,400/. Peace of Paris, by which Canada 
was ceded to Great Britain. 

1764 Massacre of the Indians at Lancaster, Penn- 
sylvania. Large number of Germans remove 
to and settle in South Carolina. Brown LTni- 
versity in Rhode Island founded. Medical 
school in Philadelphia founded by Dr. Ship- 
pen. 

1765 Stamp Act passed by the British Parliament; 
produced on its promulgation the most violent 
tumults at Boston, and was opposed by most of 
the colonies,but the first legislati\'e proceeding 
declatory of American rights was made in the 
Virginia house of burgesses. Massachusetts 
proposed a Continental Congress ; South Ca- 
rolina first met the proposition, and was fol- 
lowed by all the colonies, except New Hamp- 
shire, which dissented ; and Virginia, North 
Carolina and Georgia, which were prevented 
from sending delegates by their respective 
governors. The Congress met at New York, 
and James Otis, of Massachusetts, took the 
lead on the side of law, humanity and free- 
dom. 

1766 Stamp Act repealed. The population of 
South Carolina 135,000; New Jersey 161,000; 
and New York 168,000. 

1769 Louisiana taken possession of by Spain, in 
virtue of the treaty of 1762. 

1770 Affray at Boston, between the people and the 
royal troops. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 41 

1771 Regulators, a lawless assemblage in North 
Carolina, are suppressed by Governor Tryon. 

1773 Tea destroyed at Boston. Tea ships sent 
back to London from Pennsylvania. Assem- 
bly of Virginia appoints a committee of cor- 
respondence with the other colonies. 

1774 Boston port closed by British authority ; and 
the provincial assembly of that colony meets 
at Concord. British military stores seized 
at Portsmouth. Assembly of Connecticut 
erects the Wyoming valley into a town, un- 
der the charter of that province. Royal artille- 
ry and military stores seized in Rhode Island. 
Continental Congress met September 5th, in 
Philadelphia, and chose Peyton Randolph, of 
Virginia, their President ; all the colonies, 13 
in number, except Georgia, were represent- 
ed, 12 having sent delegates. 

1775 Battle of Lexington, and Bunker's hill near 
Boston. Washington made commander in 
chief, besieges Boston. Ticonderoga taken 
by the Americans. Georgia accedes to the 
confederation. Constitution of Delaware 
formed. 

1776 Jan. 1st, General Montgomery defeated and 
slain at Quebec. March 17th, Boston evacuat- 
ed. May 5th, the American army quits its lines 
near Quebec, and rapidly evacuates Canada, 
July 2ndj Constitution of New Jersey adopted. 
July 4th, Independence declared at Philadel- 
phia by Congress. July 5th, Constitution of 
Virginia adopted. 8th, British fleet repulsed 
before Sullivan's island near Charleston. Au- 
gust 14th, Constitution of Maryland adopted. 
22nd, British army lands on Long Island, and 
battle of Flatbush on the 27th, Americans 
defeated. September 14th, New York eva- 
cuated by the American army. The Colo- 
nies first designated Uxitbd States, by reso- 

1)2 



42 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

lution of Congress. Commissioners sent to 
France. October 28th, Battle of White Plains 
near New York. November 16th, British 
take Fort Washington. 18th, Americans 
evacuate Fort Lee. 28th, General Washing- 
ton retreats over the Delaware. December 
12th, Congress retires from Philadelphia to 
Baltimore. 13th, General Lee taken prisoner 
in New Jersey. 26th, Surprize and capture 
of 900 Hessians at Trenton. 

1777 Jan. 3d, Battle of Princeton, British defeated. 
April 20th, Constitution of New York adopt- 
ed. 26 th, British destroy the stores at Dan- 
bury. May 23d, Colonel Meigs destroys the 
British stores at Sagg Harbour, Long Island. 
July 6th, General Burgoyne takes Ticonde- 
roga. August 6th, General Herkimer defeat- 
ed by the Indians. 16th, battle of Benning- 
ton, German troops under British colours and 
pay utterly defeated. September 11, battle 
of Brandy wine, Americans defeated. 19th, 
battle of Stillwater near Saratoga, New York. 
20th, General Wayne surprised at Paoli, 
Chester county, Pennsylvania, and his troops 
massacred by the British. 27th, Philadel- 
phia taken by the British. October 4th, in- 
decisive battle of Germantown. 6th, Forts 
Clinton and Montgomery taken by the Bri- 
tish. 7th, British defeated at Stillwater ; and 
General Burgoyne surrendered his army on 
the 17th, at Saratoga. 22nd, British repuls- 
ed at Red Bank. December 18th, Constitu- 
tion of North Carolina adopted. 

IJ'78 Feb. 6, Treaty of alliance between the Unit- 
ed States and France. The American fri- 
gate Kandolph, of 32 guns, engages the Bri- 
tish ship Yarmouth, of 64; former blown up. 
June, Commissioners arrive from Great Bri- 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 43 

tain to treat with Congress ; propositions of 
theformerrejected by the latter. 18, Phila- 
delphia evacuated by the British, Avho retreat 
towards New-York, are pursued, and on the 
28th defeated by the Americans under Gene- 
ral Washington, at Monmouth in New Jersey. 
French fleet arrives at Newport. July 1, 
Massacre at Wyoming. Aug. 29, Indecisive 
battle on Rhode Island. Dec. 29, British de- 
feat the American General Howe, and take 
Savannah. 

17T9 General Lincoln takes command of the south- 
ern army in January. March 3, Battle of 
Briar-creek, near Savannah ; Americans de- 
feated. The British advance towards Charles- 
ton in April ; invest, that city, but are com- 
pelled to raise the siege May 12. Indecisive 
battle of Stono ferry, June 20th ; the British 
had in the interim hivaded Virginia, and ta- 
ken Portsmouth and Norfolk. July 5, New- 
haven plundered, and on the 7th, Fairfield, 
Norwalk, and Green-farms, in Connecticut, 
burnt by the British. 16, Stony-point stormed 
by the Americans under General Wayne. 
19, British post at Paulus-Hook, opposite 
New York, surprised and taken by Major 
Lee. Aug. Expedition of General Sullivan 
against the Indians of the Six Nations. Sep- 
tember 23, Naval battle off Flamborough 
Head, two British frigates captured by Paul 
Jones. October 4, Americans and French 
besiege Savannah, and on the Qth meet a san- 
guinary repulse in an attenipt to storm the 
place. 

17S0 In January, a powerful British expedition, 
under Sir Flenry Clinton, . sailed for South 
•Carolina. Constitution of Massachusetts adop- 
ted March 2d. March 21, Charleston be- 
sieged by the British, who surprise the Ame- 



44 HisToiiicAL introduction. 

ricans at Monk's Corner, and by bombard- 
ment, May 12th, force Charleston to surren- 
der. May 29, Colonel Butbrd defeated at the 
Waxhaws by Colonel Tarleton^ June, Lord 
Cornwallis left in command of the British in 
South Carolina ; Sir Henry Clinton returned 
to New-York. 23, Indecisive action at Spring- 
field in New Jersey. July 12, Party of Bri- 
tish defeated by General Sumpter, Aug. 6, 
Prince of Wales's regiment surprised and ut- 
terly defeated by General Sumpter at the 
Hanging Rock. 16, Americans meet a se- 
vere defeat at Camden, South Carolina. — 
September 21, Arnold escapes from West 
Point, and Major Andre taken by the Ame- 
ricans. October 7, Battle of King's Moun- 
tain, British and Tories defeated, and their 
commander, Colonel Ferguson, killed. Nov, 
20, Colonel Tarletcn defeated by General 
Sumpter. 
1781 Jan. 1, Revolt of the Pennsylvania troops, 
which is soon suppressed. 17, Decisive de- 
feat of the British under Colonel Tarleton, by 
General Morgan, at the Cowpens. March 
15, Battle of Guilford Court-house. April 25, 
Second battle at Camden, Americans defeat- 
ed. September, Indecisive action off Virgi- 
nia, between the English and French fleets. 
Arnold, now a British officer, takes and burns 
New-I^ondon, and massacres the garrison of 
Fort Griswold, September 6. Battle of Eu- 
taw Springs on the 8th, British defeated. 
14, The American army under General 
Washington, reaches W^illiamsburgh, and 
opens the campaign against Cornwallis ; in- 
vests Yorktown on the 30th, and, in conjunc- 
tion with the Fi'ench fleet, comjjcls the Bri- 
tish general to surrender himself and army 
on the 19th of October. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 45 

1T82 Bank of North America, which had been or- 
ganized in December 1781, received a char- 
ter from Pennsylvania, April 1. Indians de- 
feated near Savannah by General Wayne. 
Treaty between the United States and Hol- 
land, October 8. Nov. 5, At Portsmouth, 
in New Hampshire, was launched the AME- 
RICA, 74 guns, the first United States ship 
of the line, Nov. 30, Provisional articles of 
Peace. 

1783 Feb. 5. Sweden acknowledges the Indepen- 
dence of the United States. 15, Treaty be- 
tween the United States and Denmark. 
Pvlarch 22, Congress commutes the officers' 
half-pay for life for full -pay for five year?. 
March 24, Independence of the United States 
acknowledged by Spain, and by Russia in 
July. September 23, Definitive Treaty of 
Peace between Great Britain, France, and the 
United States, signed at Paris. October 18, 
American army disbanded by proclamation 
of Congress. Nov. General Washington 
published his admirable Farewell Address. 
25, New- York evacuated by the British. — 
Dec. 4, General Washington takes leave of 
his officers ; on the 23d resigned his commis- 
sion into the hands of Congress, and retired 
to private life. Society of Cincinnati formed. 

1734 Feb. First voyage from the United States to 
China undertaken in the ship Empress of 
China. St. John's college, in Annapolis, and 
a Roman Catholic college, Georgetown, Ma- 
ryland, founded. Bank of Massachusetts in- 
corporated. 

1785 Treaty between the United States and Prus- 
sia. Athens University, in Georgia, founded. 

1786 From August 22, until March 10th, 1787, 
civil tumult, almost amounting to actual war, 
agitated Massachusetts and New liamp- 



46 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

shire ; but by wisdom, moderation and firm- 
ness, was in the end happily appeased. Port- 
land, in Maine, incorporated, and Harrisburg 
in Pennsylvania founded. Columbia, the pre- 
sent seat of government of South Carolina, 
founded. 
1787 Convention in order to frame a federal Con- 
stitution met at Philadelphia, May 25th, and 
agree upon one September 17, which was re- 
ported to Congress, and on October 4, by a 
resolution of that body, referred to each state 
in convention. The new Constitution was 
t-atified, by Delaware, Dec. 7; by Pennsylva- 
nia, Dec. 12; by New-Jersey, Dec. 18; by 
Georgia, Jan. 2, 1788 ; Connecticut, Jan. 9 ; 
Massachusetts, Feb. 6; Maryland, April 28; 
South Carolina, May 23 ; New Hampshire, 
June 21; Virginia, June 26; New York, July 
26; North Carolina, Nov. 21, 1789, and by 
Rhode Island, May 29th, 1790. 

1787 continued. In that year New York ceded a 
large tract of land to Massachusetts ; and 
South Carolina ceded her western territory 
to the United States. Columbia College in 
New York incorporated. 

1788 Black cotton seed introduced into Georgia 
from the Bahama Islands. 

1789 March 3. The new Constitution went into 
operation : George Washington was elected 
President, and John Adams Vice-President, 
who were inaugurated at New-York, April 
30th. Seat of government of South Carolina 
removed to Columbia. First Roman Catho- 
lic bishop in the United States consecrated, 
and first Roman Catholic church in Boston 
founded. 

1790 April. Congress accepts from North Caroli- 
na a cession of th t territory now state of 
Tennessee ; and a territory south of Ohio 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 47 

formed. May 20. September 2, Existing 
Constitution of Pennsylvania adopted. 20, 
General Harmar defeated by the Indians. 
Dec. Vermont and Kentucky permitted by 
Congress to form Constitutions, Existing 
Constitution of South Carolina adopted. First 
Census of the United States taken, and re- 
ported a population of 3,929,526, of whom 
695,655 were slaves. 

Feb. 18, Vermont admitted into the Union 
as an independent state. March 3, Subscri- 
bers to the Bank of the United States incor- 
porated by act of Congress ; same day, Nov. 
4, General St. Clair defeated by the Indians. 
Burlington College, Vermont, founded. Re- 
venue of the United States $4,771,000, expen- 
diture ^'3,797,000, and exports upwards of 
^19,000,000. Exports of New York alone, 
$2,505,000. 

June 1, Kentucky admitted into the Union as 
a state. Existing constitutions of Delaware 
and New Hampshire adopted. Banks of New 
Hampshire, Pennsylvania, and South Carolina 
established. Union Bank in Boston incorpo- 
rated. 

March 4, George Washington a second time 
enters on his duty as President, and John. 
Adams as Vice-President. April 29, Pro- 
clan^ation of neutrality issued by the Presi- 
dent of the United States. In the autumn of 
this year the yellow fever ravages Phila- 
delphia. 

Congress passes an act to fortify and to pre- 
pare a naval armament in the ports of the 
United States. July, Insurrection in western 
Pennsylvania, which is in the sequel sup- 
pressed without bloodshed. Aug. 20, General 
Wayne defeated the Ir.dians on Maumee. 
Nov. 19, Treaty, usually called Jay's treaty, 



48 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

between the United States and Great Britain, 
concluded. 

1795 Aug. Treaty of Greenville, between the Unit- 
ed States and western Indians, concluded. 
Oct. Trjeaty between the United States and 
Spain. Nov. Treaty between the United 
States and Algiers. Georgia passes an act 
to sell its western lands. 

1796 Tennessee admitted, June' 1, into the Union 
as a state. Western posts, Detroit, &c. de- 
livered to the United States in virtue of Jay's 
treaty, 

1797 Treaty of peace between the United States 
and Tripoli concluded in January. July 7, 
In consequence of increasing difficulties with 
France, Congress passes an act, declaring 
the existing treaties with that nation no longer 
obligatory on the United States. Oct. Con- 
stitution frigate launched at Boston. 

1798 May, Congress augments the army and navy, 
and in June authorises merchant vessels to 
arm in their own defence. July 13, George 
Washington appointed commander in chief, 
with the rank of lieutenant general. Oct. 2. 
Massachusetts cedes to the United States 
Castle William, in Boston harbour. Oct. 25. 
The United States and British boundary in 
St. Croix river determined by commissioners. 
Transylvania university in Kentucky founded. 

1799 Feb. Commodore Truxton, in the frigate 
Constellation, of 38 guns, captures the French 
frigate L'Insurgente, of 44 guns. May 26, 
Treaty between the United States and Tunis 
concluded. July 11, Treaty between the 
United States and Prussia. New embassy 
to France. American navy carrying 950 guns 
on 42 vessels. Seat of the government of 
Pennsylvania removed from Philadelphia to 
Lancaster, The militia of the United States 
estimated at 854,000. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 49 

ISOO May 13, Provisional army disbanded. Mis- 
sissippi territory erected into the first grade 
of territorial government. Indiana territory 
formed. Seat of government removed to 
Washington. Sept. 20, Convention between 
tlie United States and France concluded at 
Paris. Second census reported a population 
of 5,305,666. 

1801 Contested election between Messrs. Jeffer- 
son and Burr, terminated by the choice of 
Mr. Jefferson for President. July 10, War 
declared by the United States against Tripo- 
li. UpAvards of 200 newspapers now publish- 
ed in the United States. 

1802 April 28, Ohio admitted into the Union as an 
independent state. July, Louisiana ceded by 
Spain to France. Intendant at New Orleans 
shuts that port in October against the com- 
merce of the United States. Merino sheep 
introduced from Spain into the United States. 
Military Academy at West Point established. 

1803 April 30, Convention of Paris, by which Lou- 
isiana was purchased from France by the 
United States, for 15,000,GOO of dollars. Oct. 
31, The United States frigate Philadelphia 
struck on a rock in the harbour of Tripoli, 
and was taken. Dec. 20, the French coloni- 
al prefect, Laussat, delivered Louisiana to 
the United States. Columbia college in 
South Carolina founded. 

1804 Feb. 16, The frigate Philadelphia burned 
in the harbour of Tripoli, by a body of Ame- 
rican seamen, headed by Stephen, afterwards 
Commodore, Decatur. Aug. The city of 
Tripoli bombarded by the American fleet 
under Commodore Preble. Middlesex ca- 
nal in Massachusetts completed. Brown Uni- 
versity, Rhode Island, remodelled. See 1764 



50 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

1805 June, Treaty of peace between the United 
States and Tripoli concluded. 

1806 April 25, John Pierce, an American citizen, 
murdered by a shot wantonly discharged 
from the British ship Leander,Capt. Whitby. 
May, Extensive and aggravated captures 
made by the British of American vessels, for 
alleged breaches of paper blockades. Nov. 
The Emperor Napoleon emulates the British 
in their spoliations on American commerce, 
by decrees of blockade on paper, and conse- 
quent seizure of American property. Treaty 
negotiated between the United States and 
Great Britain rejected by the President of the 
United States, Mr. Jefferson. 

180/ June 22, American frigate Chesapeake at- 
tacked in full peace by the British frigate 
Leopard, and a number of American citizens 
killed or wounded. Nov. 11, issued the fa- 
mous British orders in Council, prohibiting 
the trade to France by neutral nations. Dec. 
17, The Emperor Napoleon issues retaliatory 
decrees at Milan, equally affecting neutral 
commerce. Dec. 22, General embargo laid 
on American vessels by Act of Congress. 
William Rose arrives as ambassador from 
Great Britain to the United States. 

1808 Congress authorises the President to suspend 
by proclamation the embargo in favour of one 
or both nations who should rescind their de- 
crees. The British government, by procla- 
mation, claimed a right to impress their own 
seamen, wherever found; and refused tore- 
peal the orders in Council. 

1809 April 12, Congress passes an act to augment 
the United States army. The Embargo law 
repealed ; but a Non-Intercouse Act passed, 
forbidding commerce with either Great Bri- 
tain or France. Treaty between the United 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 51 

States and Great Britain negotiated with Mn 
Erskine, April 23, providing for the repeal 
of the orders in Council and Non-Intercourse 
I^aw, but rejected by the British government 
and Mr. Erskine recalled. The Non-Inter* 
course Law renewed against Great Britain. 
Nov. Mr. Jackson, the British ambassador, 
dismissed by the President of the United 
States, for insulting expressions used in his 
communications. 

1810 May 1, Act of Congress passed to authorise 
the President of the United States to suspend 
the Non-Intercourse Law with either France 
or Great Britain, on condition of a repeal of 
their respective decrees. Aug. 5, France 
rescinded the Berlin and Milan decrees in 
favour of American vessels ; repeal to take 
effect from Nov. 1, ensuing. Third census 
of the United States reported a population of 
7,239,903. 

1811 The British sloop of war. Little Belt, on May 
16, fired upon the United States frigate Pre- 
sident, Commodore Rogers, and met a severe 
castigation for the rashness of her command- 
er. Louisiana authorized to form a state con- 
stitution. Nov. 7, Battle of Tippecanoe, on 
the Wabash, between the Indians, and the 
Americans commanded by General Harrison; 
Indians defeated. Congress resolves to aug- 
ment the army and navy of the United States. 

1812 Jan. Acts of Congress empower the Presi- 
dent to raise an army of 25,000 regular troops, 
to accept the services of volunteer corps to 
the amount of 50,000, and to put in readiness 
detachments of militia to the number of 100,- 
000. June 18th, War declared by the Unit- 
ed States against Great Britain ; and on the 
23d of the same month. Great Britain revok- 
ed her orders in Council. July 12, United 



52 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

States army under General Hull, invaded 
Canada. Fort Mackinaw taken by the Bri- 
tish. Aug. 9, Battle of Maguaga, British and 
Indians defeated. 13, The United States 
frigate Essex, Capt. Porter, captures the Bri- 
tish sloop of war Alert. General Hull, Aug. 
16, surrenders Detroit, the Michigan territo- 
ry, his army, and himself, to the British. 19, 
The United States frigate Constitution, Capt. 
Hull, captured the British frigate Guerriere, 
Capt. Dacres. Oct. 8, British armed brigs, 
Detroit and Caledonia, cut out by a party of 
Americans from under the guns of Fort Erie. 

13, Americans repulsed before Queenstown. 

14, General Hopkins repulsed in an attempt 
on Canada. IT, United States ship Wasp 
captures the British ship Frolic, and both are 
subsequently taken by the Poictiers 74. 25, 
The United States frigate, Capt. Decatur, 
captures the British ship Macedonian. Dec. 
29, Capt. Bainbridge, in the United States 
frigate Constitution, captured the British fri- 
gate Java. 

1813 General Winchester defeated at Frenchtown, 
on the Raisin, by the British and Indians, Jan. 
13. Feb, 23, The United States ship of war 
Hornet, takes the British sloop of war Pea- 
cock. Mobile, in West Florida, taken by 
General Wilkinson, April 15. April 27, 
York in Upper Canada taken by the Ame- 
ricans; General Pike slain in the assault. 
May 16, Commissioners from the United 
States to treat with Great Britain, sail for 
Europe. May, Fort Meigs besieged by the 
British and Indians, and General Clay defeat- 
ed in attempting its relief. 27, Fort George, 
in Canada, taken. 29, British meet a severe 
repulse in an attack on Sackett's Harbour. 
June 1, United States frigate Chesapeake* 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 53 

Capt, Lawrence, captured by the British fri- 
gate Shannon; the gallant Lawrence fell in 
the action. 5, Generals Chandler and Win- 
der surprised and taken by the British. 24, 
Col. Boerstler surprised and taken with his 
detachment by the British. June 25, Fort 
Erie taken by the United States troops under 
General Brown. Aug. 1, British defeated at 
Fort Sandusky. 14, The British ship Peli- 
can captured the United States brig Argus. 
September 4, The British ship Boxer taken 
by the United States ship Enterprise. Sept. 
10, The British fleet in Lake Erie defeated 
and captured by a United States squadron. 
Commodore Perry. Oct 5, The British army 
on the Tham.es, Upper Canada, defeated and 
in great part captured by General Harrison. 
Nov. The expedition against Montreal re- 
linquished. Dec. 17, Embargo imposed by 
Act of Congress. 19, Fort Niagara taken by 
the British. 
1814 Jan. 22, Creek Indians defeated by General 
Jackson at Tallapoosa ; and on the 27th, an- 
other party of the same nation defeated by 
General Floyd, at Fort Defiance. March 20, 
The British frigate PhcEnix and sloop of war 
Cherub, after a sanguinary conflict, capture 
the United States frigate Essex. 27, The 
Creeks defeated by General Jackson at To- 
hopeka. 31, Action at La Cole Mill in Ca- 
nada. April 21, The United States ship 
Frolic taken by the British. The United 
States ship Peacock captured the British ship 
Epervier, June 28, The United States ship 
Wasp captured the British ship Reindeer. 
July 6, British defeated by General Brown at 
Chippeway; and again, July 25, a similar re- 
sult at Bridgewater. Aug. 9, British repulsed 
in an attack on Stonington, Connecticut. 15, 

E 2 



54 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

British repulsed at Fort Erie. 24, United 
States army, composed chiefly of militia, de- 
feated at Bladensburg, and Washington taken 
by the British. September 1, The U. S. 
ship Wasp captured the British ship Avon. 
11, Battle of Plattsburg, and capture of the 
British squadron on Lake Champlain by the 
United States squadron. Commodore M'Do- 
nough. 12, Battle of Long Point, near Balti- 
more, the British defeated. September 17, 
Sortie of United States troops from Fort Erie, 
British compelled to raise the siege on the 
19th. Oct. 19, British defeated at Lyon's 
creek. Nov. 7, Pensacola taken by General 
Jackson. Dec. 23, British having invaded 
Louisiana, and reached the bank of the Mis- 
sissippi, eight miles below NewOrleans, were 
attacked by the United States army under 
General Jackson, and an indecisive though 
sanguinary battle ensued. 24, Treaty of 
peace between the United States and Great 
Britain signed at Ghent. 28, British repuls- 
ed in an attack on the United States line be- 
low New Orleans. 
1815 Jan 1, British again repulsed near New Or- 
leans. 8, The British decisively defeated 
before New Orleans. 15, The frigate Unit- 
ed States taken by the British. British army' 
evacuate Louisiana on the ISth. Feb. 17, 
The Treaty of Ghent ratified by the Senate 
of the United States. 20, The U. S. frigate 
Constitution captures the British ships Cyane 
and Levant. March 23, The British ship Pen- 
guin taken by the United States vessel the 
Hornet. W^ar declared against Algiers. April, 
Massacre of United States prisonei-s at Dart- 
moor, England. June 18, An Algerine frigate 
of 44 guns captured by the United States fri- 
gate Gucrriere. Treaty of peacewith Algiers. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 55 

1816 United States Bank with a capital of 35 mil- 
lions, and a charter for 20 years, established 
by Congress in April. Oct. Treaty between 
the Choctaw nation of Indians and the United 
States negotiated by General Jackson. Dec. 
Indiana admitted into the Union as a state. 

1817 Jan. 1, Bank of the United States opened and 
commences business. Dec 11, The Missis- 
sippi territory admitted into the Union as a 
state. 24, The United States troops seize 
Amelia Island. 

1818 April, The Seminoles, a tribe of Creeks, de- 
feated by General Jackson. 22, Massacre 
of Indians at Chehaw, by order of a Captain 
Wright. May 1, Trial and execution of Am- 
brister and Arbuthnot. 28, Pensacola taken 
by General Jackson. Dec. 4, Illinois admitted 
into the Union as an independent state. Trea- 
ties of commerce w^ith Sweden and Great 
Britain. 

1819 Feb. 23, Treaty of Washington between the 
United States and Spain, providing for the 
cession of Florida by the latter to the former. 
Aug. but subsequently rejected by the King 
of Spain. Alabama admitted into the Union 
as a state. 

1820 Jan. 11, Great fire in Savannah. March, 
Maine admitted into the Union as a state, and 
Missouri authorized to form a Constitution, 
which was done in the ensuing June. Nov. 
Constitution of Massachusetts amended in 
convention. Fourth census reported a pop- 
ulation of 9,637,976. 

1821 Feb. 19_, Florida Treaty ratified. March, 
Missouri admitted into the Union as a state. 
July 7, Florida given up to the United States, 
and organized as a territorial government. 

1822 Feb. Ratio of representation in the United 
States House of Representatives fixed at 40,- 
000. See Art. U. S. 



56 • 

CHAPTER II. 

GENERAL VIEW. 

Taken in its utmost extent, the territory of the 
United States, as a physical section of the earth, ex- 
tends from N. lat. 24*^ 27' to N. lat. 54° 40', and 
from 10° E. to 54° W. Ion. from Washington City. It 
is bounded N. by Cabotia, or British North Ameri- 
ca ; Northwest, by Russian America ; West by the 
Pacific ocean; Southwest by the Mexican Territo- 
ries; South by the Gulf of Mexico, and Florida or 
Cuba channel ; and Southeast and East, by the At- 
lantic ocean. 

This immense region has a limit in com- 
mon with Cabotia or British North America, 
from the mouth of St. Croix river to the Miles. 
Chippewayan mountains, 3000 

By an indefinite boundary, from the Chip- 
pewayan mountains to the Pacific ocean, 
say 600 

Along the Pacific ocean, from N. lat. 51°, 
to 42°, 625 

In common with the Mexican territories, 
from the intersection of N. lat. 42° with the 
Pacific ocean, to the mouth of Sabine river, 2300 

Along the Gulf of Mexico, from the mouth 
of the Sabine to Florida Point, 1100 

Along the Atlantic ocean, 1800 

Having an entire outline of 9425 

The exact area included within this vast perime- 
ter, has never been very accurately determined, nor 
do I pretend that the subjoined table will completely 
solve the problem; but as I used the actual length 



GENERAL VIEW. 



57 



and mean breadth of the rhumbs formed by the lines 
of hititude and longitude, it is probable, that the re- 
sult is not far from the real superficies of the United 
States. 

No. I. — Table of the Area coinpHsedin each zone of lati' 
tude embraced by the territory of the United States, 
advancing from south to north. 



Between lats. 


Sq. miles. 


Between lats. 


Sq. miles. 


24" 


and 25« 


100 


38° 


39° 


121,000 


25 


26 


2887 


39 


40 


127,194 


26 


27 


8678 


40 


41 


128,000 


27 


28 


9675 


41 


42 


132,696 


28 


29 


9000 


42 


43 


193,250 


29 


30 


26,370 


43 


44 


189,864 


30 


31 


50,124 


44 


45 


193,360 


31 


32 


50,000 


45 


46 


156,272 


32 


:is 


50,000 


46 


47 


137,550 


33 


34 


60,500 


47 


48 


117,900 


34 


35 


78,374 


48 


49 


96,420 


35 


36 


83,300 


49 


50 


47,200 


36 


37 


83,300 


50 


51 


30,660 


37 


3S 


83,300 


Asrerf 


jffate. 


2,257,374 



Exceeding by a small fraction the one twentieth 
part of the land surface of the earth, but withm the 
most temperate latitudes. 

The territory of the United States is naturally 
divided into three great sections; that of the Atlan- 
tic slope; that within the great central valley of 
North America; and thirdly, a slope or inclined 
plane extending from the Rocky or Chippewayan 
mountains towards the Pacific ocean. 

The already most thickly inhabited part, and the 
seat of primitive European colonization, is an elon- 
gated, but comparatively narrow slope, falling to- 
wards the Atlantic ocean. The second section, 
flanked South by the Gulf of Mexico, North by the 
interior sea of Canada, and by a wide sweep spread- 
ing from the Appalachian to the Chippewayan 



58 GENERAL VIEW. 

mountains, embraces the most important part of the 
great central valley of the continent. This ex- 
panded region is drained in great part by the innu- 
merable confluents of the Mississippi, but having 
within its limits an important part of the basin of St. 
Lawrence or Canadian sea. Beyond the Rocky, or 
Chippewayan mountains, descends the great basin 
of Columbia or Oregon. The Pacific slope of the 
United States is still more extensive than that 
cf the Atlantic; but the former continues very im- 
perfectly known, and constitutes a very interesting 
Terra Incognita to stimulate to future discovery. 

In every disquisition upon its geography, the relative 
position and extent of these great natural divisions 
ought to be carefully kept in view. Contrasted in 
their general aspect, separated by natural if not by 
impassable boundaries, and each in itself of great ex- 
tent, the civil and political history of the United 
States, must in all future times be modified by fea- 
tures which no human powercan essentially change. 

The Atlantic slope, if extended beyond the Nortli- 
eastern limit of the United States, includes the out- 
let of the St. Lawrence basin, and reaches Cape 
Charles in Labrador, the extreme Eastern angle of 
North America; but in the present view, however, 
we are only concerned with that part, stretching 
from Florida Point, to the mouth of St. Croix river. 
This range of the Atlantic coast is the extreme 
southeast exposure of the continent to which it be- 
longs; and as an inquiry into the remote and proxi- 
mate causes which produce its atmospheric pheno- 
mena, forms an essential part of this view, the rea- 
der will find that subject discussed in Chapter X. 

A common, but very erroneous opinion, prevails 
that the great inclined Atlantic plain rises by gra- 
dual ascent from the ocean to a chain of mountains, 
and that, of course, the mountains give rise to the 
numerous rivers which flow down, and decorate the 
plain. It is a very remarkable fact, however, that 



GENERA.L VIEW. 59 

the Appalachian chain or system of mountains does 
not form the dividing line between the Atlantic slope 
and Mississippi basin.* By reference to a good 
physical map of the United States, it will be seen 
that the real line of demarcation between the Atlan- 
tic streams and those flowing into the Gulf of Mexi- 
co ranges obliquely over the Appalachian system. 
The Atlantic slope, therefore, bounded south-east 
by the Atlantic ocean, and north-west by the source 
of its rivers, falls with an unequal breadth and very 
chequered surface, from north-west to south-east. 
The interior limit is an indefinite and very inflected 
line, curving between the river sources, whilst the 
ocean border is formed by a most beautiful sweep 
into three immense bays. 

Having Capes Hatteras and Florida as the ex- 
tremes of its chord, and the fine estuaries of St. 
John's, St. Mary's, Alatamaha, with many other 
rivers, pouring into its base, stretches a bay, 
swept by that great ocean river the Gulf stream. 
The coast of this bay is uniformly low and sandy, 
with small islands, extending generally parallel to 
the opposing shore of the continent. The rivers are 
comparatively shallow at or near their efflux into 
the ocean. It is much to "be regretted, that this bay 
and the two others which follow it to the north-east, 
had not received distinctive names; but as this has not 
been the case, I shall be compelled to distinguish 
them relatively, as South-western, Middle, and 
North-eastern. 

* To avoid circumlocution, I have designated the Central Val- 
l<^y of the United States, by the name of Mississi])])! basin, from 
tJie most noted of its rivers. The term Basin, in this view, will be 
also used as generieally to denote the entire space drained by a river 
having its outlet into a sea or ocean, such as the Mississippi, St. 
Lawrence, or Mauraee of Lake Erie; whilst the term Valley, will 
be used to describe the space drained by a river falling into another; 
such as the Mohawk, Schuylkill, Shenandoah, or Ohio. Speaking 
of mountains, \the term System will be used generically, and Chain 
specifically; thus, the system of the Appalachian or Chippewayan ; 
and the chains of Alleghany, Blue Ridge, or Kittatinny, 



60 GENERAL VIEW. 

If we consider the South-western bay as commen- 
cing with the northern outlet of the Bahama chan- 
nel, the length of its chord will be about 600 miles, 
with a depth from that chord to the mouth of the Ala- 
tamaha, of about 200 miles. The Gulf stream in 
its passage north-east, flows almost exactly along 
the chord of this bay, and forms in its inner curva- 
ture an immense whirlpool. The general causes, 
courses, and extent of the Gulf stream, will be treat- 
ed of in Chapter X,, as well as the effect of this 
oceanic river on the climate of the continent of 
North America. 

Cape Hatteras forms a most distinguishing land- 
mark on the oceanic border of the United States. 
Without an elevation much above the waves which 
beat with untameable rage against its rocky front, 
this stormy promontory projects into the Atlantic 
ocean almost exactly mid-distance between Florida 
point and Passamaquoddy bay. Sweeping inwards 
from this cape of tempests, and forming a section of 
a very elongated ellipse, the Middle bay of the Uni- 
ted States extends about 550 miles to the eastern 
salient angle of Massachusetts, with a depth from 
its chord to New York harbour of 150 miles. The 
coast of the Middle bay, like that of the South-west, 
is generally low and sandy ; but the rivers and mi- 
nor bays of the former assume a very different char- 
acter from those of the latter. St. John's, St. Ma- 
ry's, St. Ilia, Alatamaha, Ogeechee, Savannah, Edis- 
to, Santee, Pedee, and Cape Fear rivers, all enter 
the Atlantic ocean, by narrow and very shallow out- 
lets; neither, except the St. Mary's, admitting the 
entrance of large vessels. With the Ncuse and 
Pamptico, entering into Pamptico sound directly 
west from Cape Hatteras, commences a new order 
of rivers. Pamptico sound is followed by that of 
Albemarle, receiving Roanoke .and Chowan rivers, 
which is again succeeded by that immense recipient 
the Chesapeake bay, and that again by the wide 



GENERAL VIEW. 6 I 

estuary of the Delaware, and next, the long and sin- 
gular tide river or bay of Hudscai. 

At the efflux of the Hudson, the Atlantic waves 
almost reach the base of the Appalachian system, 
but are again repelled by the sandy border of Long 
Island, which in a distance of 116 miles shelters an 
inland gulf, differing in character only from the other 
sounds or bays on the Atlantic slope in having two 
outlets into the ocean. The outer coast of Long 
Island may therefore be regarded as the continuation 
of that of the Atlantic, and what is called I^ong 
Island Sound as the recipient of the Houssatonick 
and Connecticut rivers. 

The beautiful and richly variegated bays of Nar- 
raganset and Buzzard, close the fine indentings of 
the Middle bay of the United States, which termi- 
nates with the sandy point of Malabar. 

Similar to that of the South-west, the chord of the 
Middle bay is very nearly the course of the Gulf 
stream, though in its advances to the North-east, 
that great current increases in width but diminishes 
in rapidity. 

Cape Cod, the eastern extremity of Massachu- 
setts, is a promontory which constitutes another of 
those geographical limits on each side of which 
strong contrasts in natural phenomena present them- 
selves. Here again the coast curves rapidly inwards 
by an abrupt sweep to the south, thence west, and 
gradually winding to the north-east and finally to the 
south-east; enclosing on three sides a sheet of wa- 
ter in form of a parallelogram,, 200 by 180 miles. 
Into this north-eastern recipient are poured the ri- 
vers Charles, Merrimac, Piscataqua, Saco, Kenne- 
beck, Penobscott, St. Croix or Passamaquoddy, St. 
Johns, and I might add, the Bay of Fundy. 

The North-east bay is rendered distinct by a pe- 
culiar character of coast. From causes which will 
receive a more ample notice in another part of this 
view, the elevation of the ocean tides mcrease from 



62 GENERAL VIEW. 

Cape Florida north-eastward, whilst their flow in- 
land is regulated by the particular local features of 
the coast, or rock formation. In the South-west 
bay, the tides vary from 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 feet. In the 
Middle bay, and especially towards its north-east 
extremity, the height of tide is sensibly augmented; 
but along the whole shore of the Atlantic ocean, 
from Cape Florida to Cape Cod, in a distance, fol- 
lowing the general curves of the two great bays, of 
upwards of one thousand three hundred miles, the 
tides are under 10 feet, except in heavy and long 
continued south-eastern gales. 

Passing Cape Cod, a sudden and hitherto unex- 
plained elevation of the tides is at once perceived. 
The change is so excessive and rapid, that in Buz- 
zard's bay, the tide rises 9 feet, whilst at Barnsta- 
ble, on the opposite side of the narrow intervening 
neck of land, they rise to 18 feet mean height. 
Advancing to the north-east from Barnstable, 
the swell increases until in the Bay of Fundy the 
ocean tides are the most elevated known, rising to 
from 40 to 50 feet. There may be other causes 
which contribute to produce such a diiference in the 
Atlantic tides from Cape Florida to the Bay of Fun- 
dy, but it is probable that the principal part of the 
effect arises from the Gulf stream. It will be seen 
in Chapter X. that the current in the Florida chan- 
nel is from three to five miles an hour ; a velocity 
continued in the Bahama channel. This counter 
stream checks the tides ; but as the ocean current 
widens and becomes more slow, the swell falls with 
more and more force on the continent. 

The shores of Cape Cod are low and sandy, but 
with it terminates the sea-sand alluvial coast of the 
United States. The high land approaches the ocean, 
and the bays and rivers of north-cast Massachusetts, 
and of New-Hampshire and Maine, open to the 
ocean between bold and swelling hills. The har- 
bours of this North-east section of the United States 



GENERAL VIEW. bo 

are numerous, deep, and spacious, and the two ex- 
tremes of the Atlantic slope, present a complete con- 
trast in scenery and in commercial facility. 

Such are the prominent outlines of that coast 
which meets the wave of the Atlantic ocean, and 
upon which has been reared the first column of 
American freedom. 

Along the Gulf of Mexico, in a line of 1100 miles, 
scarce a hill of any perceptible elevation rises to 
break the dull monotony of the coast ; the rivers 
enter their recipient by narrow and shallow chan- 
nels, even the outlets of the mighty Mississippi, on 
no one bar has 13 feet water. The best harbours 
are bays into which no great rivers are discharged. 

To an eye sufficiently elevated and powers of vi- 
sion strengthened so as to admit a view of the whole 
territory of the United States, the perspective would 
present, on the south-east an immense inflected sea 
line, from the mouth of the Sabine to Cape Cod, of 
2400 miles, unbroken and unadorned by any of those 
strong features which give relief to landscape. Ap- 
proaching the Hudson, far distant hills would be 
perceived, but still the ocean spray would continue 
to have a beach of sand and shells. With the Mer- 
rimac the monotonous scenery would cease ; more 
indented and now rising into rounded promontories, 
the ocean border would be seen richly variegated with 
sheets of water, intervening between isles now smil- 
ing in all the luxury of civilized cultivation. Extend 
the view inland from the Atlantic ocean and Gulf of 
Mexico, and one vast and very gently rising alluvial 
plain would seem emerging from the waters, and 
spreading to the base of the Appalachian mountains. 
The ocean plain, first an almost undeviating level, 
would be found imperceptibly broken into hill and 
dale ; the hills first humble in elevation, but ap- 
proaching the mountains more proudly swelling in- 
to that majesty, which gives so imposing an aspect 
to many of the interior parts of the United States. 
But to give still more grandeur to this interesting 



64 GENERAL VIEW. 

picture, the long and irregular chains and ridges of 
the Appalachian system, would appear stretching 
from south-west to north-east, through upwards of 
1200 miles. Those chains and ridges, however ir- 
regular in their individual physiognomy, would be 
perceived arranged as a whole, with a symmetry 
which mocks the efforts of art, and again, exhibiting 
the peculiar phenomenon of constituting the far 
highest elevation intervening between the Atlantic 
ocean and Mississippi basin, without being the di- 
viding ridge between the respective rivers of these 
two great sections of North America. Impressed 
with the common but erroneous opinion, that the 
Appalachian chains and ridges are the superlative 
of hills, and that the Atlantic scope is terminated by 
the base of that system, the observer would quickly 
perceive his error. He would discover that the Ap- 
palachian system, so far from constituting a dividing 
river line, that compared with the real fountain 
boundary, the mountains ranged obliquely ; and 
would appear in some respects as extraneous to the 
general structure of that part of the continent; and 
as having been formed at a different period. The 
mountains would be seen deflecting the courses, but 
in no single instance as determining the recipient in- 
to Vv'hich their waters are discharged. The river 
volumes would appear flowing down the mountain 
vallies, or bisecting the chains at very nearly right 
angles. This symmetrical inflection in the courses of 
the rivers, though apparent on both the Atlantic 
slope and Mississippi basin, is in a peculiar manner 
evident in the confluents of Chesapeake bay ; the 
Delaware, Hudson, and Connecticut basins. 

If a perceptible line was drawn on a good map of 
the United States, an observer of such a diagram, 
would be placed relatively as woidd s\Tch a one as I 
have supposed. Such a map would jirescnt the 
mountains as crossing the river line at an angle of 
about 30° ; and what is truly worthy of remark, the 



GENERAL VIEW. 65 

river line, from the sources of St. John's of New 
Brunswick, and Maine, to Florida Point, would ap- 
pear to obey the inflections of the opposing Atlantic 
coast. The mountain system, on the contrary, al- 
most touching the ocean on the coasts of New 
Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New 
York, penetrates, in its range south-west, more and 
more deeply into the continent, passing over New 
Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, the two 
Carolinas, Georgia, and Alabama. 

If we receive the preceding data as correct, then 
are we bound to regard the mountains which com- 
pose the Appalachian system, as not only relatively, 
but specifically and generically distinct from the 
hills. The former stand prominent, are arranged 
in order, and are composed of different materials 
from the latter, which, indeed, are evidently the re- 
mains left by river abrasion. I would impress the 
distinction the more upon the mind of the reader, 
as it has been from confounding objects so different, 
that so much error prevails respecting the physical 
geography of the United States. Confounding the 
mountain chains with the river hills, again impedes 
a due conception of the prodigious facilities afforded 
by the Atlantic rivers to canal and road formation. 
The rivers have already done, what man cculd 
never by any combination of force have effected ; 
torn the mountains to their bases, and made not only 
natural canals, but afforded the ready routes to 
roads through those enormous piles of earth and 
rock. But though less influential on the general 
structure of the continent, than a casual observation 
would lead us to suppose, the Appalachian masses 
constitute very strongly marked features, on an ex- 
tensive scale, and give a rich finish to the great At- 
lantic plain. To the eye of the traveller those moun- 
tains present an almost infinite variety of landscape. 
Many who read accounts of foreign scenery, are un- 
aware, that, in a distance as great as from the 

F 2 



66 GENERAL VIEW. 

Pyrenees to the Carpathian mountains indusive, the 
United States afford a succession of natural pictures 
which, if not so magnificent, are more soft, more 
easily approached, and really more attractive than 
Alpine glaciers. 

As objects of philosophical research, however, I 
am reluctantly compelled to observe, that no ade- 
quate idea of their relative extent, position, magnitude 
or number, can be gained by any existing map of the 
Appalachain chains. No operation which deserves 
the name of an accurate geographical or geological 
survey has ever been made of even any state section 
of this system. In every state map which I have 
seen, whole chains are omitted ; whilst others are 
so very defectively delineated, as to render the re- 
presentation deceptive. All therefore, which can 
be performed in the present state of geographical 
science, is a general view. Taken under a compre- 
hensive survey of its physiognomy, the Appalachian 
system comprises an undetermined number of 
chains, extending in collateral ranges. Each chain 
is indeed formed of ridges which interlock with each 
other, and are frequently cut by the rivers. Tlie 
ridges extend in most instances in the same direc- 
tion with the chain Avhich they contribute to form. 
The chains differ very materially in relative eleva- 
tion and continuity, and the whole system is, with a 
few exceptions, in a remarkable manner devoid of 
peaks. No unequivocal appearance of volcanic 
eruption has been anywhere detected. 

If we regard the Appalachian system as a whole, 
and extend our view from the sources of the Chata- 
hooche and Mobile to those of Connecticut, the 
mountain system has a range not deviating mate- 
rially from north-east and south-west ; but if we ex- 
amine the parts separate, we discover some very 
considerable inflections from the general course. 
These inflections have given rise to a doubt, whe- 
ther the chains of the opposite sides of the Hudsoit 



GENERAL VIEW. 67 

formed parts of one, or were two distinct systems, 
but a few moments' attention to their respective 
ranges is sufficient to determine that they are really 
parts of one system. 

In Tennessee, Alabama, Kentucky, and part of 
western Virginia, the Appalachian chains extend 
between east and west, and north-east and soutli- 
west ; but in central Virginia turn to north of north- 
east, and thus crossing Maryland enter Pennsylva- 
nia in a direction almost north and south. Here 
again the system bends abruptly to nearly east, and 
curving through Pennsylvania and New Jersey, 
winds to north and south, in entering New York. 
Thus the chains on each side of the Hudson belong 
to that part of the system comprised by the bend 
commencing in the north-east part of Pennsylvania. 
When we regard the chains eastward from the 
Hudson, we perceive them extending from north to 
south, and terminating towards the Atlantic ocean ; 
but if taken in connexion, and due attention paid to 
the inflections already noticed, the continuity of the 
system will become evident. 

Carrying our view west from the Appalachian 
chains, a new and variegated landscape opens. The 
great central valley of North America spreads its 
widely extended sweep from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific system of mountains ; falling from the Ap- 
palachian by a gentle but broken descent to the 
Mississippi, and again rising beyond that great 
stream to the base of the Chippewayan. In its 
fullest extent, the central valley dips into the Gulf 
of Mexico, south, and mingles with the frozen 
marshes of the Artie ocean, north. Of that part em- 
braced in the United States territory, the Canadian 
sea flanks it on one side, whilst the Gulf of Pvlexico 
closes the landscape on the other ; from the two 
bounding mountain systems are poured the thousand 
streams of the Mississippi and those of its conflu- 
ents. The relative extent of these great sections 
which we have noticed will be given in another part 



68 



GENERA! VIEW. 



of this view. In order to exhibit to the reader a 
condensed summary of the comparative heights of 
the two sections, the following tables were construct- 
ed. 

Tables Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, were in a great 
part formed from actual survey; the distances are 
therefore taken along the inflected course of the 
streams ; but the residue of the tables being con- 
structed from estimated elevations, the lines of as- 
cents and descents, are direct air measures taken 
from point to point. It need hardly be observed, 
that those formed from observed elements have a 
superior authority over those formed from simple 
analogy in the fall of rivers. 

No. II. — Table oftheJiscents and Descents up the valley 
of James River, and thence to the mouth of the Great 
Kenhatva, by the route of Craig^s creek. Sinking' creeks 
and Great Kenkaiva. 



Route. 


Miles. 




Feet. 


llichniond, iip James river, 










to the mouth of Craig's 












creek 




200 


rises 




925 


Up Cr.iig's creek to the moutii 






■ 






of John's cret'k 


49 


249 


— 


345 


1270 


Highest spring tributary to 












Craig's creek 


H 


'2^rl 


— 


22812498 


Lowest point on divitling ridge 




257i 


— 


53 2551 


Hii^hest spring tributary to 










Sinkinsi;- creek 


L 


258 


fid Is 


42 2509 


Mouth of Sinking creek 


34"* 


292 


— 


924:1585 


Down Great Kenhawa to the 












mouth of Greenbriar river 


55 


347 


— 


252 


1333 


Bowyer's Ferry 


46 


393 





403 


930 


Kenhawa, at the foot of the 












Great Falls 


21 


414 





341 


589 


Ohio river, at the mouth of 












Great Kenhawa 


94 


508 


— 


108 


485 



GENERAL VIEW. 



69 



No. ITI. — Table of the Ascents anil Descents from tide 
■water in James river, to the tnouth of Great Keiihaiva, 
by the route of James, Jackso7i*3, Greenbriar, and Great 
Kenhaiva rivers. 



Route. 


Miles. 




Feet. 


Richmond, up James river, 










to the mouth of Craig's 












creek 




200 


rises 




925 


Mouth of Dunlap's creelc. 












above that of Jackson's ri- 












ver 


25 


225 


— 


313 


1238 


Lowest point ondividing' ridge 


16 


241 


— 


1240 


2478 


Mouth of Howard's creek in 












Greenbi-iar river, near Lew- 












isburgin Greenbriar county 


12 


253 


falls 


838 


1640 


Mouth of Greenbriar river 


50 


303 


— 


307 


1333 


Bowyer's Ferry 


46 


349 


— 


403 


930 


Foot of Great Falls 


20 


369 


— 


341 


589 


Ohio river, at the mouth of 












Great Kenhawa 


94 


463 


— 


108 


481 



These two routes were surveyed, by order of the Vir- 
ginia Board of Public Works, in order to determine 
the practicability of forming a canal communication 
between James river and the Ohio, by the valley of 
Great Kenhawa; and were inserted here with a 
view to illustrate the relative elevation of the At- 
lantic slope, the mountain valleys, and that of Ohio. 
When treating on the climate of the United States 
in Chapter X., the data on which the tables are 
founded, will be again referred to, as illustrative of 
the meteorological phenomena, depending on dif- 
ference of elevation. 



70 



GENERAL VIEW. 



No. IV. — Table of the ascents and desce7its, from tide 
■water in Potomac river at Georgetoion, to lake Erie at 
the totvn of Cleveland, by route of Potomac, Yonghio- 
gany, JMonongahela, Ohio, Big Beaver, and Cuyahoga 
rivers. 



Ruutt . . 


Miles. 




Feet. j 


jleorg-eiovvii to the great 










fall's- - - - . 




12 


rises 




143 


Harper's ferry - - . 


40 


52 


— 


39 


182 


ihenandoah falls 


5i 


57i 


— 


43 


225 


Cumberland - - - 


130^ 


188 


— 


312 


537 


Vlouth of Savage creek 


31 


219 


— 


446 


983 


Summit level - - - 


14 


233 


— 


1503 2486| 


Mouth of Deep creek into 












Yonghiogany river - 


16 


249 


falls 


342 


2144 


DownYonghiogany river to 












the village of Smythfield 












on the United States road 


22^ 


sni 


— 


739 


1405 


Connelsville - . - 


S7i 


309 


— 


507 


898 


Mouth of Yonghiogany river 


40 


349 


— 


87 


811 


Pitts u0Rrr 


18 


367 


— 


11 


800 


Vlouth of B'g Beaver river - 


30 


397 


— 


106 


694 


Up the latter to the foot of 












the falls - - - - 


H 


398^ 


rises 


12 


706 


Mead of the falls 


2i 


401 


— 


44 


750 


Wan-en . . - - 


50* 


451 


— 


104 


854 


Summit Level between the 












sources of Big Beaver and 












Cayahoga rivers 


10 


45] 


— 


53 


907 


Level of Lake Erie at Cleve- 












land, month of Cayahoga 












river _ . . - 


60 


521 


falls 


34V 


565 



GENERAL VIEW. 



71 



No. V. — Table oJ\1sC€iits and Deacents, from, ike level of 
tide tvater in Delarvare river, to the level of Ijake Erie 
at Baffaloe, by the route of the Schuylkill, Union Ca- 
nal, Susquehanna, and Chemung or Tioga rivers, JVetv- 
101071 creek, Seneca lake and outlet, and the Grand Ca- 
nal ofj\'e~u) I'ork, from JMontezuma to Buffalo. 



Route. 


Miles. 


rises 


F. 


et. 


Philadelphia to Reading 




55 




186 


Summit Level between Tul- 












pehocken and Swatara - 


34 


89 





310 


496 


Susquehanna, at the mouth o( 












Swatara 


34 


123 


.'alls 


220 


276 


Harrisburg 


13 


136 


rises 


10 


286 


Sunbury . . . * 


50 


186 


— 


200 


486 


VVilkesbarre - - - 


60 


246 





100 


586 


Tiog-a Point 


50 


306 


— 


189 


775 


Newtown 


20 


326 





51 


826 


Summit Level between Tioga 












river, at Newtown, and Se- 












neca lake 


7 


333 





59 


885 


Head of Seneca lake - 


13 


346 


falls 


445 


440 


Outlet of Seneca lake - 


3j 


381 






440 


Montezuma on the Great Ca- 












nal . - . . 


20 


401 





69 


371 


Commencement of Rochester 












level .... 


63 


464 rises 


126 


49r 


Along Rochester level to the 












locks at Lockport - 


65 


529 





68 


565 


Along Lake Erie level into 










" 


Lake Erie 


31 


560 


— 




565 



72 



GENERAL VIEW. 



No. VI. — Table of the Ascents and Descents, from tide 
•water in the Hudson river at Albany, to the level of 
Lake Erie, by the route of the Great Western Canal 
of JVew York, 



Route. 


Miles. 


rises 


Feet. 


Albany to Schoharie creek 




42 




286 


Rome level at Herkimer 


28 


70 





132 


418 


Along- that level 


65 


135 


— 




418 


Montezuma 


38 


173 


talis 


45 


371 


Lyons 


24 


19/ 


rises 


61 


432 


Rochester level 


5^ 


255 





e>5 


497 


Along that level to Lockport 












and Lake Erie level 


66 


321 







497 


Along the latter level to Lake 












Erie 


31 


352 


— 


68 


565 



No. VII. — Table of theJlscents and Descents, along a mC' 
ridian 3° Ion, W. from Washington city, and from tide 
•water in the Atlantic ocean, to the mouth of Siono ri- 
very due JY. to the margin of Lake Erie, 



Route. 


Mi 


es. 




Fe 


et. 


To intersect the line of Table 










No. 11. at the mouth of 












Jackson's river, N. lat. 37^^ 












49'. 




361 


rises 




1238 


Summit of the Appalachian 












system 


25 


386 





1240 


2478 


Confluence of the Monong-a- 












hela and Cheat rivers, 












about one mile witliin the- 












southern boundary of I'enn- 












sylvania 


105 


491 


falls 


1578 


900 


City of Pittsburg 


53 


544 


— 


100 


800 


Summit level between the 












sources of French creek, 












and the small streams How 












ing into Lake Erie 


112 


656 


rises 


160u 


1400 


Level of Lake Eric 


8 


664 


Hills 


835 


565 



- /K 



GENERAL VIEW. 



73 



No. Vlll. — Table of the Ascents and Descents along- 
a meridian 12° loJi. IF. from TVashington^ and com- 
mencing on the margin of the Gtilfof JMexico, near the 
S. E. pass of the Mississippi, and thence due JV. to the 
southern margin of Lake ISuperior W. from Foint Ke- 
•zveena. 



Route, 


Miles. 




Feet. 


To the junction of the Ohio 










and Mississippi rivers, at N. 












lat. 37° \ 12° VV. from W. C. 




542 


rises 




321 


Illinois river at a point be- 












tween the influx of Ver- 












million river and Portage 












lake 


sm 


842 





80 


401 


Ouisconsin river 


200 


1042 





760 


1161 


Summit level between the 












sources of the Ouisconsin 












and those streams which 












flow into Lake Superior 


130 


1172 





450? 


1611 


Marg-in of and level of Lake 












Superior 


100 


1272 


— 


970 


641 



If another line was supposed extended from that of 
No. 8. into Lake Michigan, it would be found from its 
highest ascent, that no part of the intermediate space 
from the mouth of the Mississippi to the level of Lake 
Michigan, rose seven hundred feet above tide wa- 
ter ; disclosing the very important fact, how far na- 
ture has went in advance of art in uniting by water 
the two great basins of Mississippi and St. Lav/=- 



74 



GENERAL VIEW. 



No. IX, — Table of the Ascents arid Descettts along a me- 
ridian line drawn through the City of JMexico, Ion. 22° 
W. from Washington City, commencing on the margin 
of the Pacific Ocean JV. lat. 16^* 38', in the Bay of Pa- 
sahualco, of La Fuebla, and thence due JV. to the River 
jWssouri. 



Route. 


Miles. 




Feet. 


From Pasaliualco to tlie city of 










Mexico, N. lat. 19° 26' 




194 rises 




7460 


Montezuma river, near Teco- 










zantla 


80 


274 falls 


500? 


6960 


Panuco river, about 60 miles 












above its efflux into the 












Gulf of Mexico 


120 394 


— 


6900 


60 


Rio Grande del Norle, about 












150 miles following- the me- 












anders above its mouth 


325 


719 rises 


200? 


260 


Country contiguous to St. An- 












tonio de Behar, N. lat. 29° 












36' - - - - 


ir9 


898 rises 


50 


310 


Red River of the Gulf of Mex- 










ico, or Rio Colorado of Tex- 










as, at N. lat. 32°. 


165 


1063 — 


120 


430 


Red River of the Mississippi 


100 1163, ~ 




430 


Arkansas river, at N. lat. 38° 










30' . - - - 


326 


1489' — 


470 


900 


Kansas river, at N. lat. 39° 


35 


1524 — 


50 


950 


Flatte river, N. lat. 40° 10' 


80 


1604 — 


60 


1010 


Missouri river, near the mouth 




1 






of Jaques river, N, lat. 43° 


160 


1764 — 




1010 



It may be premised, that except the general level 
of the valley of Mexico, the ascents and de- 
scents in table No. 9, were not taken from actual ad- 
measurement, but were estimated by analogy from 
the length of the streams above their recipients, and 
may, -I presume, be taken as sufficiently correct to 
answer any practical purpose, and if so received 



GENERAL VIEW. 75 

lead to very important conclusions. By reference 
to a map of North America, it will be perceived that 
meridian 22° W. from Washington City, ranges 
over the western territory of the United States, from 
Red river to the Missouri 600 miles, with a differ- 
ence of level of 580 feet. It is probable, that much 
of the spaces between the rivers are elevated seve- 
ral hundred feet above the level of the streams: but 
the relative numbers in the table will serve for a com- 
parative sketch of the height of that part of the Uni- 
ted States. Two reasons combined to give a pre- 
ference to the meridian 22° W. from Washington 
City. First, this line passes over the city of Mexico, 
and consequently, over the highest table land yet 
inhabited by civilized people in North America. 
The elevation of the Mexican valley has also been 
determined by scientific observation, and the line of 
the table extending thence N. depresses to near the 
level of the Gulf of Mexico, and in its ultimate range 
divides into two very nearly equal portions, the im- 
mense inclined plain between the Mississippi river 
and the Chippewayan mountains. In the second 
place, meridian 22° W. from Washington City di- 
vides the continent of North America into two not 
very unequal sections, and affords highly valuable 
points of reference when treating on climate. 

Though not particularly connected with the sub- 
ject before us, I may observe, that this geographical 
line exhibits to view the vast extent of the United 
States; as the point where it intersects the Missouri 
is very near mean distance between Cape Hatteras 
and the mouth of Columbia river. There is 
again another circumstance which gives interest to 
that part of North America, where long. 22" W. 
from Washington City crosses the Missouri; it is 
not far removed from the central part of the conti- 
nent, and very nearly equidistant, about 1000 to 
1200 miles from the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, and 
from the Gulf of Mexico and Hudson's Bay. 



76 



GENERAL VIEW. 



No. X.— Table of the Jlscerits aiid Descents along- a curve 
of the earth from Cape Ilatteras to the mouth of C'o- 
iumbia river. These tivo points are respectively , at A", 
lat. 35^ 15', and Ion. 1^ 30' E. ,- and at JY. lat. 46° 15', 
and Ion. Washing-ton city 47° 53' W.^ bearing- from each 
other by an angle deflecting from the meHdians 73° 
34', distant 2333 geographic, or 2702|- statute miles^ ex- 
ceeding one-tenth of a great circle of the earth. 



Route. 


Miles. 




Feet. 


Commencing on the mean le- 










vel of the Atlantic ocean 












at Cape Hatteras, and 












thence to the S. E. foot of 












the Blue Ridge, at the mid- 












dle sources of the Roanoke 




280 


rises 




1200 


Summit of the Blue Ridge 


5 


285 


— 


1000 


2200 


Kenhawa river in the Great 












Valley between the Blue 












Ridge and Alleghany 


30 


315 


falls 


615 


1585 


Ohio river near Louisville 


300 


615 


— 


1242 


343 


Wabash river above Vin- 












cennes 


110 


725 


rises 


20 


363 


Illinois river, at N. lat. 40° 


175 


900 


— 


137 


500 


Mississippi river near the 












mouth of Le Moine river 


60 


960 


— 


20 


520 


Missouri river, above Council 












Bluffs 


240 


1200 


— 


350 


870 


Foot of the Chippewayan 












mountains on the sources of 












Yellow-stone river 


600 


1800 


— 


1000 


1870 


Summit of the Chippewayan 












table land 


20 


1820 


— 


1500 


3370 


Tide water in Columbia river 


780 


2600 


falls 


3370 




Mouth of Columbia river, and 












margin of Pacific ocean 


102 


2702 


I 





GENERAL VIEW. '71 

The preceding 9 tables might be deemed suffici- 
ent to exhibit a view of the relative elevations of the 
great sections of the United States; but I have con- 
cluded, in order to make the comparisons still more 
comprehensive, to add another, comprising the basin 
of St. Lawrence. The latter basin or Canadian sea, 
is peculiar, not alone in the United States, but in 
America; it has, indeed, but one similar on earth, 
that of the Black Sea. In one important feature the 
Canadian basin stands alone; it rises by abrupt steps 
and not by gradual ascent. 

The elements from which table 11 was construct- 
ed, were drawn from either actual survey or obser- 
vation. From the Atlantic ocean to Lake Erie, the 
results are from survey; the residue were taken 
from Mr. Schoolcraft's Tour from Detroit to the 
Sources of Mississippi. This table may be regarded 
therefore as giving an accurate view of the relative 
elevation of the interesting region of which it treats. 



G 2 



78 



GENERAL VIEW. 



No. XI.— Table of the Ascents and Descents from the Gcean- 
ic level in the Gulf of St. Latvrence, iip that stream and 
through the Canadian Lakes, and over the intermediate 
coxmtry by the route of St. Louis, and Sandy Lake ri- 
vers, to the ^Mississippi, and up the latter to its source. 



Route. 


Miles. 




Fe 


er. 


Up St. Lawrence river to the 






head of tide water 




45C 








Lake Ontario level 


200 


650 


rises 




231 


Lake Erie level 


175 


825 


— 


334 


565 


Lake Huron level 


340 


1165 


__ 


31 


596 


Lake Superior level 


240 


1405 


— 


45 


641 


Mouth of St. Louis river into 












the western angle of Lake 












Superior . - - 


380 


1785 






641 


Up St Louis river to the S. 












W. Company's House 


24 


1809 


— 


4 


645 


To the head of Grand Portage 


11 


1820 


— 


228 


873 


To the foot of Portage au 












Coteaux - - - 


6 


1826 





18 


891 


To the head of Portage au 












Coteaux 


2 


1828 


— 


42 


933 


To the Summit level, or Sa- 












vannah Portage 


100 


1928 


— 


261 


1194 


Down Savannah river to the 












level of Sandy Lake - 


21 


1949 


falls 


24 


1170 


Mouth of Sandy Lake into the 












Mississippi 


20 


1969 


— 


36 


1134 


Source of the Mississippi 


100 


2069 


rises 


160 


1294 



An adequate attention to these profile tables, will 
tend to prepare the reader for a more due concep- 
tion of the great inflections in the surface of the 
United States. As respects the most prominent 
feature on the Atlantic side of the continent, the 
Appalachian system of mountains, we find it rising 
into masses in central Virginia, to an elevation of 
about 2500 feet, and in the Peaks of Otter to about 



GENERAL VIEW. 79 

4000 feet above the ocean tides, and falling by a ve- 
ry gradual descent to tlie sources of the Mohawk, 
wiiere the highest table land is only 420 feet. The 
entire system penetrated by the ocean tides through 
the Hudson valley, extends in regular chains, and is 
altogether, perhaps, the most uniform mountain 
mass of the earth. It is not, as I have already ob- 
served, distinguished by any volcanic or other very 
elevated peaks, and in no one ridge rises to the 
region of perpetual snow. 

The component materials are arranged with an 
almost utter contempt of geological formation as it 
is called.* As far as yet carefully examined, the 
Appalachian system remains undefined at its two 
extremities, and still more so along the sides; but 
taken in the fullest extent, over which the mountain 
chains rise to evident notoriety, from Alabama to 
Maine, and including all its lateral chains, the Ap- 
palachian system extends in length 1200, with a 
mean width of 100 miles, embracing an area of 
120,000 square miles. But a small part of this su- 
perficies is, however, actually covered with moun- 
tains. The chains vary in number from six to twelve, 
eight would be perhaps nearer a mean, and 4 miles 
an adequate allowance for their bases. This would 
suppose about one-third of the area occupied by- 
mountain chains, and leave two-thirds to the inter- 
vening vallies, 

* It is with mncli reluctance I am compelled to use a term so 
vague ar.ci difficult in its apiilication. Before a specification could 
be made of the geological structure of this great system, a previ- 
ous and very skilful survey would be requisite. Such a survey has 
never yet ])een made, and in the existing state of our knowledge, as 
far as formation is concerned, the great mass of the system is ar- 
ranged into inclined stratified rocks, whilst the two extremities are 
primitive. Some of the more humble northwestern chains reach in- 
to the central floetz or horizontal formation, and some of the south- 
eastern touch the Atlantic sea-sand alluvion. In many of the moun- 
tain vallies the formations are intermingled in such wild confusion 
as to put all casual observation at defiance to trace their outlines, if 
indeed such outlines have an existence in nature. 



80 GENERAL VIEW. 

There are, it may be observed, two kinds of val- 
lies in the Appalachian system; one the intermedi- 
ate spaces between the chains; the other the river 
vales. These two crossing each other in all direc- 
tions, and affording a never ending variety of rock, 
water, hill, and mountain, with spreading alluvial 
plains, contribute to give to this part of the United 
States an indescribable attraction to the traveller. 

In respect to the two kinds of valley, the Hudson 
river or bay stretches a line of demarcation. South- 
west from thai remarkable tide valley, the rivers 
generally flow along the mountain range, or directly 
at right angles; on the contrary, east from the Hud- 
son, the rivers generally flow along the mountain 
vallies. 

If we disregard the mere ridges, and examine the 
plateau or table land on which they stand, we dis- 
cover a declivity falling from a mountain nucleus, 
from which flow James and Roanoke rivers into the 
Atlantic ocean, and Tennessee and Kenhawa into 
the Ohio, whilst a third series of streams are poured 
towards the Gulf of Mexico. To the north-east 
this plateau sinks slowly, and at its extremes differs 
in elevation about from 1600 to 1800 feet. 

The depression of the Mohawk valley near Rome, 
is not the lowest pass through the Appalachian sys- 
tem. The tides in the Hudson pass the primitive 
ledge, and flow into the interior of the continent to 
the verge of the central secondary above Albany. 
From the latter place the Hudson valle}^ is continu- 
ed, by one of the most remarkable features in na- 
ture. What is specifically called the Hudson basin, 
is in reality only a part of an immense glen, extend- 
ing from the Atlantic ocean, at New York harbour, 
in a direction a little east of north into St. Lawrence 
river, at N. lat. 46° 03'. This chasm is occupied 
by the Hudson from Sandy-Hook to Glenn's Falls; 
thence for 21 or 22 miles by an intermediate table 
land to the head of Lake Champlain, and for the resi- 



GENERAL VIEW. 81 

due of its length into St. Lawrence, by Lake Cham- 
plain and its outlet the Richelieu or Chambly river; 
and inclines from the meridians only 52', in a 
direct distance of 387 miles. The highest summit 
level between Hudson river and Lake Champlain 
is only 140 feet above tides in the former. Thus we 
are taught that an elevation of 141 feet in the Atlan- 
tic level would insulate the entire space between the 
Atlantic ocean and Hudson and St. Lawrence rivers, 
and in the actual state of nature affords a facility of 
canal construction unequalled on this continent. 

We ought not to pass over, without particular ob- 
servation, the range of primitive rock over which so 
many of the rivers of the Atlantic slope are precipi- 
tated. The underlaying primitive strata, exposed 
to the day by the rivers at Patterson, New Bruns- 
wick, Trenton, Philadelphia, Wilmingten, Balti- 
more, Ellicot's, Georgetown, Richmond, Petersburg, 
and many other places more south-westwardly, 
reaches the ocean in the vicinity of New York, and 
skirting Long Island Sound, continues north-east- 
ward and forms the base of the indented shores of 
Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, New 
Hampshire, and Maine. Though only discoverable 
at points, where either the ocean or rivers have 
laved its base, this lengthened and evidently conti- 
nuous range of rock strata constitutes a very definite 
physical limit. This inflected line, from New York 
to the Mississippi, is marked at distant intervals by 
falls or rapids in the bed of the streams. It is thus 
exposed near Patterson in the Passaic; near New 
Brunswick in the Raritan; near Princeton in the 
Millstone; in the Delaware at Trenton; in the 
Schuylkill near Philadelphia; in the Brandy wine or 
Christiana in the vicinity of Wilmington; at the 
Falls of Gunpowder; in the neighbourhood of Bal- 
timore; at Ellicott's on the Patapsco; at George- 
town in the Potomac; Fredericksburg on tlie Rap- 
pahannock; Richmond on James river; Munford 



82 GENERAL VIEW. 

Falls on the Roanoke; the Neuse at Sinithfield; 
Cape F«ar river at Averysboro'; Pedee near Rock- 
ingham and Sneadsboro'; the Wateree near Cam- 
den; the Congaree at Columbia; and the junction of 
the Saluda and Broad rivers; the Savannah river at 
Augusta; Oconee at Milledgeville; the Oakmulgee 
at Fort Hawkins or Macon; Flint river at Fort Law- 
rence; Chattahooche at Fort Mitchell; Talapoosa 
at Tallossee; Coosa near its junction with Talapoo- 
sa; Tombigbee near Fort St. Stephens; and is sup- 
posed to reach and underlay the Mississippi between 
Natchez and Big Black river. Extending beyond 
the Mississippi, I have myself traced this natural 
limit in Ouachita river, immediately below the 
mouth of Bceuf river, and in Red river at the Rapids 
near Alexandria. 

It must not, however, be understood that the ledge 
we have been surveying is every where actually 
composed of primitive rock. In Alabama, Missis- 
sippi, and Louisiana, such is not the case; it is there 
in most instances a loose species of sandstone; but 
whatever may be its components, it serves to trace 
a great natural line between two very different re- 
gions. From New York to the Mississippi, with 
the exception of the comparatively elongated penin- 
sula of Florida, the rock ledge follows the general 
inflections of the coast, and in the Atlantic rivers, 
in most instances, arrests the tide. Although the 
change in the physiognomy of the earth above and 
below these falls, is not always distinctly defined by 
a rapid transition near the line of contact, yet a short 
distance on either side presents a contrast in vege- 
tation, and in the face of the country. Below the 
river falls the aspect becomes more and more mo- 
notonous, until the whole sinks to a level s^-arcely 
more broken in many places than is that of an ocean 
in a calm. The rivers except from the tides are 
without current, or flow gently. Marshes overflown 
by the tides, and land floods, are extensive near the 



GENERAL VIEW. 83 

sea-coast. Above the falls all is different, and not 
only to the mountain bases, but in their expansive 
vallies, the hills meet the traveller's eye in a suc- 
cession of form and elevation, round, bold, and swell- 
ing in their contour. The rivers wind through vales, 
rich, variegated, and gently undulating, and now un- 
der the hand of culture, smiling in all the gaiety of 
field, garden, orchard, and meadow. This fine hill 
tract spreads, if I may use the expression, round the 
Appalachian masses, and extends from the mouth 
of St. Lawrence to near that of the Mississippi. It 
comprises the best peopled and cultivated part of 
the northeastern, middle, and southern States, and 
the finest sections of Canada. It may be doubted 
whether, on so large a scale, the Appalachian region 
is excelled by any other on earth, in all that nature 
can bestow to sweeten civilized life and to give scope 
and vigour to the human intellect 

If the reader will turn to the sketch of the rock 
ledge under review, he will perceive that, in the pro- 
gressive history of improvement, the largest and 
most wealthy cities in the United States have risen 
on its margin; it has therefore become a great mo- 
ral and political boundary. Along this line, at pre- 
sent, and through all future ages, will the commerce 
of Europe come in contact with that of the interior 
regions of North America. 

In this chapter has been given the extent, posi- 
tion, and general features of the United States. The 
inflections of its surface have been subjected to as 
rigorous delineation as the existing state of our to- 
pographical researches will admit. I would have 
been rejoiced that more perfect data had been with- 
in my reach in respect to the regions towards the 
Pacific, but those wide spread tracts have been too 
defectively explored to admit of much detail. What 
is known with certainty will be introduced in its 
proper place. 

Before closing thii subject it may be well to no- 



84 GENERAL VIEW. 

tice a very common, but certainly a very doubtful, 
hypothesis. The primitive beauty and attractive 
varieties of the earth's surface have been themes of 
poetic description, but are such delineations founded 
on rational induction from known phenomena ? On 
the contrary, as far as I have had means of observa- 
tion in the United States, it has always appeared to 
me, that in very remote ages, the face of the earth 
was, compared with the present, much more mo- 
notonous, the river vales more obstructed, fenny, 
and marshy; and those genera of vegetables, indi- 
genous to such moist flats, greatly more prevalent; 
but as rivers abraded their banks and deepened 
their channels, the superabundant earth was slowly 
removed and deposited as alluvion near their mouths. 
New tracts were formed along the oceanic border, 
whilst the interior was drained. Thus was gradu- 
ally formed that hill and dale physiognomy, so de- 
lightful to the eye, and so well adapted to become 
the residence of intellectual man, and which spreads, 
I might almost say, interminably over tlie United 
States, but particularly round the Appalachian sys- 
tem of mountains. 




AND 

h^m^tm:^ Allies 






85 



CHAPTER III. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE SOUTHERN SFC- 
TION OF THE ATLANTIC SLOPE OF THE 
UNITED STATES. 

I>T the progress of our survey v/e have examined 
the general position, direction, and extent of the 
Atlantic slope; we have reviewed its three great 
divisions of mountain, hill, and stlluvion. The ele- 
vation, extent, and most striking peculiarities of each 
section have been noticed; but before proceeding to 
a detailed view of the rivers and mountains, I have 
introduced some remarks on the peculiar physical 
construction of the peninsula of Florida. It may be 
observed, that Long Island and the sound which 
separates it from the continent are only distinguished 
from other islands and sounds, along the Atlantic 
coast, by the single circumstance of the sound hav- 
ing two outlets, and of course, insulating that strip 
now known by the descriptive name of Long Island. 

The latter, in every other general feature, has a 
very strong resemblance to those four peninsulas ; 
that of southern New Jersey, almost insulated by 
tide water in the Delaware ba.y and river, and by 
Amboy bay, and Rariton river: that of Cape Cod, 
still more nearly cut from the mainland by Buzzard's 
bay and the deep south-west indenting of Barnsta- 
ble bay ; thirdly, that extensive tract encircled 
within a few miles by the tides of the Delaware and 
Chesapeake bays ; and fourthly, the great peninsu- 
la of Florida. 

If our maps are even tolerably correct, Florida is 
connected with Georgia, by a flat country, over 



86 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

which the tides probably once flowed, if the hypoth- 
esis of the abasement of the Atlantic level is founded 
on fact. The tables of ascent and descent given 
in Chapter I. are calculated on the supposition of 
uniform level along both coasts of America; an as- 
sumption, however, which demands considerable 
modification. From the circumstance of the Gulf 
stream flowing out of the Gulf of Mexico, into the 
Atlantic ocean, it is demonstrated, that the former 
is elevated above the latter, and that Florida rises 
as an immense wing dam, confining the water of the 
Gulf of Mexico from falling with irresistible weight 
into the Atlantic ocean. From this inequality of 
level, if ever a canal is opened over Florida, the 
locks on the Atlantic side must exceed those on that 
oftheGulf of Mexico. 

The entire peninsula seems based on shell lime- 
stone of comparatively recent formation, and of 
every degree of induration, from compact building 
stone, to loose hillocks of sand and shells. The cen- 
tral part of the country rises into hills of no great 
elevation, resting on the calcarious strata, and from 
which the surface slopes imperceptibly towards the 
contiguous ocean and gulf, and also towards the 
great body of the continent. It is an interesting sub- 
ject of inquiry, whether an artificial channel could 
not be opened from the Gulf of Mexico into the At- 
lantic ocean, with a current from the former into 
the latter recipient? As it is situated, Florida greatly 
modifies the maritime phenomena of the United 
States, and may admit, it is probable, of an improve- 
ment or change by the hand of man, which may, 
though to a very limited degree, influence the course 
of one of the greatest aquatic currents on the globe, 
the Gulf stream. 

Hitherto we have been examining the solid struc- 
ture or skeleton of the Atlantic slope, but we now 
are to traverse its rivers, those channels of living 
water, which give activity, beauty, and elegance 



GEOGRAPHICAL V1E^^^ 87 

to tlie face of the earth, and without which, barba- 
rism, gloom, and poverty would prevail for ever. 

The rivers of this region are divided by the hand 
of nature into two sub-systems, by the lengthened 
tide valley of the Hudson. These two divisions I 
shall place before the reader in the order I have al- 
ready pursued with the previous survey, advancing 
from south to north.* 

In this order St. John's river, of Florida, appears 
first. On the principles I have adduced, this river 
partakes much more of the character of an inlet or 
sound, than that of a river in the real acceptation of 
the latter term. In Tanner's map, the extreme 
southwestern sources of St. John's are laid down at 
N. lat. 28° 15', from whence by the name of Ockla- 
waha it flows north-west eighty miles, and then 
curving gradually to an east course, unites with the 
St. John's proper at N. lat. 29^ 21'. The latter 
branch rises at N.lat. 28° 38', and pursuing a north- 
west course of about 60 miles, receives the tributary 
I have noticed. Below their junction the united 
water flows by a'very tortuous course 130 miles, fall- 
ing into the Atlantic ocean at N. lat. 30° 19', long. 4° 
36' W. from Washmgton City. Composed of lakes and 
interlocking inlets, both branches of St. John's ap- 
pear on the map with a strong resemblance to other 
narrow sounds along the American coast. The 
source of the St. John's proper or eastern branch 
rises within a few miles from the Atlantic ocean, 
and flows into the peninsula. The intermediate 
strip between the river and the ocean of about 120 
miles long, and with a mean width of from 20 to 25, 

• It may be noted, that in estimating the length of rivers, their 
co!u-ses are in this view taken comparativtrly, and their minute 
bends disregarded. Much distortion is frequently given to a country 
by estimating the meanders of rivers ; and it is from this cause, 
that the rivers of America are almost uniformly represented long- 
er than thpy are in fact, when compared with the streams of the 
other parts of the earth. ^» 



88 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

is flat, in part marsh}', and otherwise presenting the 
common traits of those insular tracts scattered along 
the coast of the United States. 

The St. John's is rather important from the singu- 
larity of its structure than from its value either as a 
commercial basin, or a tract whereon a dense popu- 
lation could find subsistence. Its bar affords 15 feet 
water at .he best tides, and within the bar, the river 
channel rather exceeds that depth to Lake George 
130 miles above the mouth. Lake George is one of 
the enlargements of St. John's proper, above the en- 
trance of Ocklawaha ; and with a depth of 12 feet, 
is about 18 miles by 12 in extent. Above Lake 
George the river again rather deepens and is navi- 
gable 40 miles higher. The Ocklawaha is also 
navigable some distance above its mouth, but both 
branches have more the appearance of irregular ca- 
nals than rivers. 

From the outlet of St. John's, in a distance of 
above five degrees of latitude, to the extreme south- 
ern point of the peninsula, no river of any magni- 
tude flows from the interior, nor does the coast af- 
ford harbours in any proportion to a distance of 370 
miles. From every data we have yet procured, the 
far greater part of the surface of southern Florida, 
is open, flat, and marshy ; even the sources of St. 
John's are undefined, and what is a striking fact in 
the natural history of that river, though a fresh 
water stream at its mouth, its waters are often 
rendered brackish near its head, from the waters of 
the Gulf of Mexico, being driven by the winds into 
the lagoons which intersect the intervening morasses. 

St. Mary's, with the inconsiderable river Nassau 
between, follows St. John's. The St. Mary's, St. 
John's, St. Ilia, and Alatamaha, afford one amongst 
many other examples of a similar nature in the 
United States. These rivers in their inflections 
correspond to each other with an exactness, which 
warrants the mduction, that such uniformity must 




S5#^ 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 89 

have arisen from some general cause, existing in the 
country over vv^hich those streams flow. 

The sources of St. Mary's have been traced to 
above N. lat. 31°. flowing thence with a mosi tor- 
tuous channel into the Atlantic ocean, which it en- 
ters directly west from the pass between Amelia 
and Cumberland islands, after an entire comparative 
course of 110 miles. The sources of St. Mary's in- 
terlock with those of Suwanne and St. Ilia rivers. 
General course from west to east, entering the oceM 
at N. lat. 30° 42', long. W. C. 4° 37' W. 

St. Mary's river is of importance from the depth 
of water on its bar, having twenty feet at mean tides, 
or more than is found in any other channel along the 
Atlantic coast of the United States, south-westward 
from the Chesapeake. 

St. Andrew's sound receives the St. Ilia river al- 
most exactly on N, lat. 31°. Of little importance as 
a channel of commerce, the St. Ilia, in respect to 
space drained, is a much more considerable river 
than St. Mary's. The St. Ilia rises at N. lat 31^ 
42', long. W. C. 6° W., interlocking sources with 
the Suwanne and lower small branches of the Oak- 
mulgee, and drains some of the south-eastern coun- 
ties of Georgia. 

The St. Mary's in its lowest part separates Flori- 
da from Georgia, draining part of both, but the St. 
lUa basin is entirely within the latter state. 

From Florida point to the mouth of St. Mary's the 
coast of the Atlantic ocean inclines westward of a me- 
ridian one degree and a half of longitude in five degrees 
of latitude, but at the mouth of St. Mary's the coast 
assumes an inclination a little east of north, 45 miles 
to the opening of Alatamaha sound. As in almost eve- 
ry other instance of the rivers of this part of the Atlan- 
tic coast, the great volume of the Alatamaha enters 
the ocean between the salient points of two coast 
islands. St. Simon's and Sapelo islands bound the 
various outlets of the Alatamaha, the Dory inlet be- 
H 2 



go GEOGRAPHICAL VIEWi. 

ing merely the north-east entrance into the port of 
Darien, situated on one of those outlets. 

Advancing along the Atlantic shore from Cape 
Florida, the Alatamaha is the first stream, the re- 
mote sources of which are drawn from the south- 
eastern spurs of the Appalachian system. It is 
formed by two branches, the Oconee, and Oakmul- 
gee, of nearly equal length and volume. Both con- 
fluents rise in Hall county, Georgia, N. lat. 34°, 
long. W. C. 7° W., and flowing nearly parallel to 
each other at a mean distance of 40 asunder, 160 
miles, the western branch of the Oakmulgee turns 
by a gradual bend to north-east, joins the Oconee at 
the point where Telfair, Montgomery, and Tatnall 
counties have a common angle, N. lat. 32° 1', long. 
5^ 33' W. Below the union of the two great branch- 
es, the Alatamaha, now a spacious stream, inflects a 
little east from the general course of the Oconee, 
and after a comparative distance of 90 miles, is lost 
in the Atlantic ocean at N. lat. 31° 19', long. W. C. 
6° 22' W., between Glynn and M'Intosh counties. 

The sources of the Alatamaha interlock with 
those of Savannah, Ogeechee, Cambahee, and St. 
Ilia, flowing; into the Atlantic ocean, and with those 
of Chatahoochee, Flint, and Suwanne, entering the 
Gulf of Mexico. As a navigable basin the Alata- 
maha has 14 feet water on its bar, and the depth is 
increased within and for some distance above the 
port of Darien. Boats of .30 tons are navigated up 
the Oconee to Milledgeville, and an equal distance 
up the Oakmulgee. 

From the mouth of St. Mary's to Alatamaha souncl, 
the Atlantic coast is seen gradually curving east- 
ward ; at the latter sound, the eastward curve is 
increased to very nearly north-east, which course 
is maintained to the efflux of Savannah river. In a 
distance of 55 miles, the coast is decorated and brok- 
en by Bapelo island and sound ; St. Catherine's is- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 91 

land and sound ; Ossabow island and sound ; Was- 
saw island and sound; and finally, Tybee island, at 
thQ entrance of Savannah river. 

In the intermediate space between the Alatamaha 
and Savannah, Ossabow sound receives the only 
river, the Ogeechee. This small stream is formed 
by two unequal branches, the Ogeechee and Ca- 
mouchee. The Ogeechee proper rises in Greene 
county, in Georgia, and flowing thence S. S. E. 160 
miles, receives the Camouchee from the right at N. 
lat. 32°, continues 15 miles farther, and opens into 
Ossabow sound. The extreme eastern angle of Os- 
sabow island is at N. lat. 31° 50', long. W. C. 4° 2' 
W. 

Our survey now brings us to the review of a river 
remarkable as forming in all its course from the 
Appalachian mountains to the Atlantic ocean, in a 
distance of 250 miles, and in a course of S. S. E., a 
boundary between Georgia and South Carolina. The 
general course of the Savannah is in an unusual man- 
ner direct, and compared with its length, drains the 
least area of any river on the Atlantic slope. The 
Savannah river has 17 feet on its bar, and is naviga- 
ble with large vessels to the city of Savannah, and 
for river vessels to Augusta. 

We may here pause on our course, and return to 
a summary review of that region comprised in the 
three basins of Alatamaha, Ogeechee, and Savan- 
nah. Taken together those three basins cover an 
area of 27,300 square miles. Extending from the 
verge of the central secondary formation, crossing 
the primitive, and terminating in the mixed river 
and oceanic alluvion, this portion of the United 
States comprises the greatest difference of climate 
and vegetable production to be found within any 
equal superficies. The surface presents all the va- 
riety of scenery, from the m.onotonous oceanic bor- 
der, to the elevated, rugged, and variegated moun- 
tain ridges. 



92 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

In the higher sources of the Savannah, we are led 
to the first point where the fountains of the Atlantic 
slope and those of the Mississippi approach. Here 
the branches of the Tennessee, and those of Savan- 
nah interlock, at NT. lat. 35°, long. W. C.6° W. on a 
plateau at least 1500 feet above the Atlantic level ; 
and as that height in feet is a fall equivalent to four 
degrees of lat., consequently, the temperature of 
the region before us presents all the varieties found 
in the opposing ocean margin in extremes of seven 
degrees of the meridian. 

With the Atlantic border of Georgia commences 
the real tropical climate of the United States. It 
will be shewn when we are expressly discussing 
the subject of climate, why the temperature is so 
much lower on any given latitude upon the shores 
of the Atlantic ocean, than on the banks of the Mis- 
sissippi; and why the zone of tropical vegetables is 
so much more southward on the former, than on the 
latter section of the American continent. As the 
mouth of the Savannah river is a point of separation 
in some manner between two climates, it may be 
well to remind the reader that N. lat. 32'', and long. 
4** W. from W. C. intersect about 5 miles almost 
directly west from the bar. 

The Atlantic coast, curving eastward from the 
mouth of St. Mary's, assumes above Savannah bar a 
general course, but with partial inflections, of N. 
56° 40' E., which is continued to Cape Hatteras, 
within a small fraction of 400 miles. With this great 
change in direction, the character of coast from Cape 
Florida, is sustained by the far greater part of the 
maritime border of South Carolina, and along the 
latter the intricacy of inlets and islands is increased. 
Jones', Burtle, Dawfuskie, and Hilton islands, suc- 
ceed each other, in a distance of 20 miles from Sa- 
vannah bar to Port Royal entrance. This latter 
opening, designated Broad river in the interior of 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 93 

the country is the estuary of a number of small 
creeks, the' principal of which the Coosawhatchie 
rises in the southern part of Barnwell district, flows 
thence into and crosses Beaufort district, gradually 
widens near the ocean, where it changes to the name 
of Broad river, and finally enters the Atlantic by 
Port Royal entrance. The entire length of the Coo- 
sawhatchie and Broad rivers united is about 70 
miles, over a country uniformly flat, and in a great 
part marshy, receiving the Atlantic tides to near its 
interior extremity. The port of Beaufort, on one of 
the numerous inlets which v/ind through this laby- 
rinth of creeks and islands, is the commercial depot 
for Port Royal entrance. The port stands 14 miles 
north, and within Hilton head the southern and sa- 
lient point of the entrance. Hilton head is at N. 
lat. 32° 12', long. W. C. 3° 41' W. 

St. Helena sound, the most spacious opening from 
Cape Florida, in a distance of almost five hundred 
miles, is the recipient of two considerable streams, 
the Combahee and Edisto rivers, and also of some 
creeks and inlets of lesser note. It is one of the pe- 
culiarities in the history of human society in the 
southern states, that no city of great consequence 
has risen on the large rivers, if we except New Or- 
leans and Savannah. An explanation of this:, ano- 
maly is to be sought in the character of the rivers 
themselves. Shallow and intricate, their capacity 
of conveyance bears no proportion to their apparent 
magnitude. St. Helena sound is, including the mouth 
of south Edisto river, near eight miles wide, and 
narrowing inland ten or twelve miles, terminates by 
the influx of Ashepoo, Combahee, and Coosaw rivers; 
the latter an inlet from Broad river. With all this 
appearance of a spacious series of havens, the depth 
of water forbids the rise of any commercial depot of 
much consequence. 

It has been already noticed, that St. Helena sound, 
at its north-east angle receives one branch of Edis- 



94 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

to river. The latter composed of two confluents, 
north Edisto, and south Edisto, both rising in Edge- 
field district, and flowing south-east 60 miles, uniting 
on the border between Barnwell and Orangeburgh, 
continue the original course thirty miles into Colle- 
ton : thence turning to nearly due south 25 miles, the 
stream divides into two unequal outlets. One under 
the name of south Edisto maintains a southern course 
of twelve miles into St. Helena sound. The other, 
flowing south-east fifteen miles, enters the Atlantic 
ocean by the name of north Edisto. 

The three outlets of St. Helena sound, and the 
two Edisto's, are so blended, as to be properly consi- 
dered only the estuary of one basin. The mouth of 
south Edisto river into St. Helena sound is at N. lat. 
32° 28', long. W. C. 3° 21' W. 

Between the two outlets of Edisto is inclosed the 
fine island of Edisto, which advancing north-east is 
succeeded by a congeries of other islands, the prin- 
cipal of which are Wadmelaw, John's, and James' 
islands, composing Colleton and Drew's parishes in 
Charleston district. Wadmelaw, Avith the two mi- 
nor islands of Seabrooke and Kiawaw, are separated 
from the continent by north Edisto and Stono rivers. 
The ^former, for about ten miles after separating 
from south Edisto, is known locally as Dawho river, 
and which again dividing, is continued into the ocean 
as north Edisto by the right branch, Avhilst that of 
the left, assuming the name of Stono river, in a course 
of 35 miles encircles Colleton parish, and finally 
enters the Atlantic ocean in Stono inlet. In its pe- 
rimeter from north Edisto, Stono river flows first 
north-east 15 miles, where it receives Wallace's 
branch, and turns to a little south of east, 5 miles, 
under the name of Wappoo cut. At the eastern 
termination of the Wappoo cut, Stono river divides; 
the main volume turning south flows, as I have 
shewn, into Stono inlet; but the other branch, by 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 95 

the name of Wappoo creek, east into Ashley river 
opposite Charleston. 

A small basin of about thirty miles square, or 900 
square miles, opens into the Atlantic ocean by the 
most eligible harbour along the south-western coast 
of the Atlantic ocean in the United States. Not 
from superior depth of water, in which it is exceed- 
ed by St. Mary's river, and equalled by that of Sa- 
vannah, but in its position and spacious sheltered 
harbour, and from an early settled and well cultiva- 
ted interior, Charleston has risen into the largest 
city on the Atlantic coast of the United States, south 
from Chesapeake bay. 

The city of Charleston is situated on the point 
formed by Ashley and Cooper rivers, though the far 
greater part of the commercial business is done on 
the latter. The city is about six miles within the 
bar, and a small fraction above four west from Fort 
Moultrie, on Sullivan's island, and two and a quarter 
north-west from Fort Johnson, on James' island. 
The channel admits vessels of 16 feet draught. The 
city is at N. lat. 32° 43', long. W. C. 2° 54' W. 

The basin of Charleston has been artificially uni- 
ted to that of the Santee by a canal of 22 miles, from 
the head of Cooper river into Santee, 50 miles, a lit- 
tle west of north, from the city of Charleston. 

An extent of coast of 55 miles, still broken by in- 
lets and islands, reaches from Charleston harbour, 
to south Santee entrance, which three miles farther 
is succeeded by the north entrance of the same 
stream, and again at eight miles from the latter, by the 
wider opening of Winyaw river, or Georgetown en- 
trance. Winyaw river or bay is itself merely the 
estuary of Black river. Great Pedee, and Wacco- 
maw rivers. %, 

There is so small an mterval of coast between the 
two outlets of Pedee and Santee, that without much 
violence to physical correctness they might be uni- 
ted into one basin; but the two rivers differ so very 



96 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

widely in their structure, that a separate notice is 
indispensable. The Santee is formed by two great 
confluents, the Congaree, and Wateree. Having 
their reniote sources in the south-eastern vallies of 
the Blue Ridge, the Saluda rises in Picken's and 
Greenville districts. South Carolina; the Ennoree, 
in Greenville and Spartanburg districts; and Broad 
river in Rutherford county. North Carolina, all in- 
terlocking sources with the French Broad branch of 
Tennessee, between N. lat. 35° and 35° 35', long. 5° W. 
from Vv^. C. Converging to a common point of influx, 
and by a general course of south-east, the united 
waters of those minor rivers meet at Columbia, and 
by a singular concurrence, on the verge of the pri- 
mitive ledge over which the volume passes, and is 
hence known as the Congaree. The site of Colum- 
bia and head of Congaree, is again rendered re- 
markable by being almost exactly upon the inter- 
section of N. lat. 34^, and of long. W. C. 4° W. 
Continuing a south-east course forty miles below Co- 
lumbia, the Congaree receives the Wateree from 
the north. 

Though inferior to its rival in mass of water, the 
Wateree considerably exceeds the Congaree in 
length of course. By the name of Catawba, the re- 
mote sources of the Wateree drain Burke county 
in North Carolina, and in part rise as high as N. 
lat 36°, long. W. C. 5" W. Interlocking with the 
head waters of French Broad, Nolachucky, Great 
Kenhawa, and Yadkin, and winding N. E. by E. six- 
ty miles along those of Broad river, the Catawba 
leaves Burke, and forming the boundary between 
Iredell and Lincoln counties, gradually assumes a 
course of S. S. E. 150 miles, entering South Carolina 
between Lancaster and Yoi^ districts, and above N. 
lat. 35°; and joins the Con'^ree at N. lat. 33° 45', 
forming the Santee. 

The Santee witli its branches, though navigable 
for boats far above the primitive ledge, is deficient 



GEOGRAPHICAL \IE\Y. 97 

as an opening to the ocean, though steam boats as- 
cend to Columbia. 

With the basin of the Pedee, terminates that 
character of coast which we have found prevailing 
from Florida point. In this range we have seen ri- 
vers of greater or less magnitude dividing into nu- 
merous branches before entering the Atlantic ocean. 
The coast, rising by a very slow acclivity, is cut, by 
inimmerable channels, into islands, the surface of 
which are but little elevated above high tides.^ The 
rivers, comparatively, in a peculiar degree shallow, 
and in every instance deeper within than on their 
bars. The line of coast, though generally uniform 
as to course from point to point, is very irregularly 
indented. Along this part of the Atlantic slope, 
through 600 miles, the inlets are, as we have seen, 
shallow and impeded, but are excessively numerous, 
particularly from St. John's river to Santee and Pe- 
dee, inclusive. 

With the Pedee, however, a new order of coast 
commences, and which, if Long Island is included, 
continues to Montaug point, along 800 miles. In the 
latter instance, the range from point to point stretches 
in regular lines or curves, with long sand isles lying 
parallel to the main shore. The rivers opening to- 
wards the ocean in very wide sounds or bays. 

Winyaw bay, or Georgetown entrance, opens to 
the ocean at N. lat. 33° 11', long. W. C. 2^ 11' W. 
The main confluent of this basin, the Pedee, desig- 
nated near its source by the name of Yadkin, has its 
extreme fountains in the Blue Ridge, K. lat. 36^, 
long. W. C. 4° 40' W., interlocking sources with 
Catawba, Holston, and Great Kenhavv'a rivers; and 
flowing thence N. E. by E 80 miles over Wilkes 
and Surry counties of North Carolina, turns abruptly 
to S. S. E. 100 miles, enters South Carolina between 
Marlborough and Chesterfield districts, and con- 
tinuing the latter direction 80 miles, is augmented 
from the west by a considerable tributary, Lynche's 



98 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

river, and 20 miles lower receives a more impor- 
tant branch from the north, I^ittle Pedee. Below 
the junction of the two Pedees, the united stream 
turns to S. S. W. 30 miles to the port of George- 
town. At the latter place, the name of Pedee is 
changed to that of Winyaw bay, into the head of 
which is discharged, besides the Pedee, Black river 
from the west, and Waccamaw from the north-east. 

The latter confluent of Winyaw bay, though hum- 
ble in respect to either volume or length, is re- 
markable from its peculiar position and course. 
Rising in Bladen county. North Carolina, N. iat. 
34^* 40', flows south 50 miles, enters South Carolina, 
in Horry district. The Waccamaw, w^here it passes 
the line between the two Carolinas, approaches 
within eight miles of the Atlantic ocean, but instead, 
however, of continuing its course into the ocean, it 
turns to S. W. parallel to the opposing coast, from 
which it flows at a distance varying from 3 to 8 miles 
by comparative courses 60 miles, and finally enters 
Winyaw bay opposite Georgetown. 

In the future improvements of inland navigation 
along the Atlantic coast, a most important link may 
no doubt be afforded by the peculiar course of this 
small but remarkable river. 

From Winyaw point to Cape Fear, by the name of 
Long Bay, the Atlantic coast curves inward, pre- 
senting a section of an elongated ellipse, and in a 
distance of one hundred miles, winds with a regu- 
larity which mocks a work of art, and without a 
single inlet worthy of notice. N. Iat. 34° and long. 
1** W. from W. C. intersect in the mouth of Cape 
Fear river. The most considerable stream flowing 
entirely Avithin North Carolina, Cape Fear river, 
rises in Guildford and Rockingham counties, N. Iat. 
36° 20', long. W. C. 3° W., and flowing by a gene- 
ral course S. E. 200 miles, receiving a number of 
confluents of moderate size, enters the Atlantic about 
10 miles north from Cape Fear, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 99 

The basin of Cape Fear, though not very exten- 
sive, is of consequence as a commercial inlet. Two 
of the most important seaports of North Carolina are 
in this basin; Wilmington, on N. E. Cape Fear ri- 
ver, and Fayetteville, on the main stream, are wealthy 
and prosperous emporia; the former 30, and the lat- 
ter 120 miles within Cape Fear. 

By another elliptical curve, with an astonishing 
resemblance, both in extent and form, to that from 
Winyaw to Cape Fear, the Atlantic coast again 
sweeps from the latter to Cape Lookout, under the 
name of Onslow bay. New River inlet, from Onslow 
county, North Carolina, is the only entrance of note 
which breaks the monotony of the coast in 120 miles. 
A series of long, narrow, and low sandy islands, as 
regular as the opposing coast, follow each other, 
leaving a very confined sound within. 

Cape Lookout, with a strong resemblance to Cape 
Fear, is only a salient point of a long coast island, 
and projects into the Atlantic ocean at N. lat. 34° 
34', long. W, C. 0° 22'. Leaving Core and Pamptico 
sounds within, and again forming another elliptical 
curve inwards, the Atlantic coast stretches 80 miles 
from Cape Lookout to Cape Hatteras. Extending 
from N. E. by E., and S. VV. by W. 70 miles, with 
a mean width of 15, Pamptico sound spreads west 
from Cape Hatteras islands, and terminates inland 
by the wide bays of Neuse and Pamptico rivers. 

Neuse river rises in Person and Orange counties. 
North Carolina, interlocking sources with the con- 
fluents of Cape Fear, Roanoke, and Pamptico. The 
higher part of its course is S. E. SO miles into John- 
son county, where it turns to S. E. by E. agajn, 80 
miles, to Newbern, below which it gradually spreads 
into a semi-ch-cular bay of forty by from three to five 
miles, which in its turn opens into the wider ex- 
panse of Pamptico sound. 

Interlocking with the lower and more humble 
branches of Roanoke, the Pamptico drains the space 



100 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

between that river and the Neuse. Rising- in Gran- 
ville and Warren counties, by several branches, the 
general course of the Pamptico is S. E. by E., 100 
miles to Washington, M^here it dilates into a bay, 
which thirty miles still lower terminates in Pampti- 
co sound. 

Pamptico sound is connected on the south-west by 
Core sound with Onslow bay; and on the north-east 
with Albemarle sound, and opens into Raleigh's bay 
by Ocracoke inlet. The latter may indeed be con- 
sidered as the mouth of the sound, and has 14 feet 
water at mean tide. Ocracoke inlet is about 3 miles 
north-west from the point in the ocean where N. 
lat. 35° and long. W. C. 1° E. intersect, and is dis- 
tant about 30 miles from the mouths of Neuse and 
Pamptico bays. 

We have now reached the north-east termination 
of the great southwest bay of the Atlantic slope. 
It has been already observed, that Cape Hatteras 
forms at once a physical limit of climate and of 
geographical lines of coast. Projecting a salient 
angle into the Atlantic ocean, this storm and ocean 
beaten promontory receives the full force of the 
Gulf stream from the Bahama channel. The reefs 
or long sandy islands, for 30 miles on each side of 
Hatteras, present an unbroken front to the never 
tiring surge; the Pamptico sound within, offering 
in its tranquil surface a curious contrast to the eter- 
nal billowy contest without. It is here, ever since 
the discovery of America, that the genius of the 
tempest seems to have chosen his abode. 

With Cape Hatteras the Atlantic coast turns to 
a small inclination west of north, which course is 
sustained 130 miles to Cape Henry or entrance into 
Chesapeake bay. In this latter expanse, the ocean 
border continues to present its regular series of 
islands and narrow inlets. In the rear of this chain 
the interior is penetrated by the decj) indenting of 
Albemarle sound. L}'ing nearly parallel to each 



Gl'.OGRAPHlCAL Vlii.W. 10 I 

other, but by the different tending of the respective 
coasts, Pamptico sound sweeps along the course of 
the opposing Raleigh's bay, whilst Albemarle 
stretches directly into the continent 60 miles, and 
received into its head Roanake and Chowan rivers. 

The basin of the Roanoke and Chowan vmites the 
rivers of Virginia and North Carolina. The Roan- 
oke, formed by two branches, the Dan and Stanton 
rivers, is the first stream from Cape Florida which 
derives any part of its waters from beyond the Blue 
Ridge. Dan river rises in Surry and Stokes coun- 
ties. North Carolina, and in Patrick, Henry, and 
Franklin counties, Virginia, and pursuing a general 
course nearly east 120 miles, receives the Stanton 
from the northw^est. The latter, rising in Botce- 
tourt and Montgomery counties, Virginia, in the 
Great valley west from the Blue Ridge, interlocking 
sources with James' river and Great Kenhawa, turn 
east, and piercing the mountain chain inflect to the 
S. E. and S. E. by E., and after a comparative 
course of 120 miles joins the Dan and forms the 
Roanoke. 

The sources of the Roanoke spread from N. lat. 
36° 10', to N. lat. 3r° 25', and flowing from the most 
elevated table land in the United States, give to the 
basin an immense comparative range of climate. The 
most north-western branches rise in the spurs of 
the Peaks of Otter, in the Blue Ridge and Tinker 
mountains, at an elevation of at least 1500 feet.* 
This difference of level produces a change of tem- 
perature equal to four degrees of latitude, though 
the mean range of the basin declines but little from 
an east and west direction. All the higher branches 
of the Roanoke are upon the primitive; and similar 
to the Alatamaha and Santee, the Roanoke receives 
no large tributaries below the point of union of its 
main constituent branches, at N. lat= 36^ 40' and 

* See tables 2 and 3. 
I 2 



102 GEOGRAPHICvVL VIEW. 

long. 1° 40' W. from W. C. Here the main stream 
inclining to S. E. by E. about 40 miles, quits Virginia 
in the S. W. angle of Brunswick county, and enter- 
ing North Carolina in the N. E. angle of Warren 
county, quits the primitive and enters on thfe region 
of alluvion, at the rapids between Halifax and 
Northampton counties. Thus far the ocean tides 
penetrate the basin. Below tide water the particu- 
lar courses of the Roanoke are excessively circuitous, 
and in a comparative distance of sixty miles it is 
probable the actual channel amounts to near 100. 
The entire comparative course below the junction 
of Dan and Stanton is about 140 miles, and the 
whole length by either branch 250 miles. If to this 
we add 60 for Albemarle sound, the Roanoke has a 
course of 310 miles. 

The Chowan, formed by the Meherin and Notta- 
way rivers, is, when compared with its rival the 
Roanoke, an humble stream, but the former derives 
great importance from the position and range of its 
valley. The Meherin branch rises in Charlotte 
county, Virginia, at long. 1° 30' W. from W. C, N. 
lat. 37°; and flowing thence S. E. by E. 80 miles, 
enters North Carolina between Gates and North- 
ampton counties, and continuing its course 20 miles, 
joins the Nottaway between Gates and Hertford 
counties above Wynnton. 

The remote north-western sources of the Notta- 
way are in Prince Edward county, a little northward 
from those of the Meherin. Inclining but little from 
an eastern course, the Nottaway flows about 70 
miles into the centre of Sussex; bending thence to 
S. E. 40 miles, receives from the north, on the line 
between Virginia and North Carolina, the Black- 
water. The latter rising in Prince George's coun- 
ty, in the vicinity of Petersburg, floAvs 40 miles to 
the S. E., and turning thence 25 miles, inclining 
something W. of S., unites with the Nottaway as 
already stated. Below their junction the course of 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 103 

the Blackwater is preserved, and 10 miles within 
North Carolina the combined waters mix with those 
of the Meherin, and form the Chowan, almost ex- 
actly on the meridian of Washington. 

A fine tide water volume, the Chowan, pursues a 
course of south-east 20 miles, whence it opens into 
a wide bay, and bending to nearly south 20 miles, 
terminates in Albemarle sound. 

As a commercial basin the Roanoke by neither 
branch offers facilities in comparison to volume of 
water or surface drained. Sloops ascend both 
branches about 70 miles, above which boats are 
used. As in most other streams of the Atlantic 
slope, which flow from the Appalachian chain, the 
most unnavigable part of the Roanoke is immedi- 
ately above the primitive ledge. The rapid and 
gigantic strides of internal improvement will, how- 
ever, soon remove obstacles to the passage of ves- 
sels on our streams, which a few years past, and 
even now, appear irremovable. 

In respect to climate, the Roanoke basin demands 
great attention in a view of the United States. Ex- 
tending from east to west, between N. lat. 35° 30' 
and 37° 30', it constitutes the mean between the ex- 
tremes of the United States, lat. 25° and 52°, since, 
though restricted by mere lines of latitude to 37^°, 
that part of the basin lying upon the Appalachian 
table land, virtually carries the temperature to N. 
lat. 41°. 

Rising like an immense central base, that section 
of the United States comprised in the western part 
of North Carolina, eastern part of Tennessee, and 
south-western part of Virginia, discharges the vari- 
ous river sources like radii from a common centre. 
A single glance on a general map of the United 
States will suffice to shew the full force of this ob- 
servation. 



i04 



CHAPTER IV. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE MIDDLE SECTION 
OF THE ATLANTIC SLOPE. 

We have now passed the tropical zone of the At- 
lantic slope, and have left the region of the sugar 
cane, orange, fig, and even in great part cotton, and 
have reached the climate of -wheat, the apple, and 
luxuriant meadow grasses. 

The first basin of this temperate tract is that of 
Chesapeake. By the caprice and accident of geo- 
graphical nomenclature, the Susquehanna loses its 
name at the head of its tides, or at the point where 
it passes from the primitive to the sea alluvion. The 
Chesapeake must therefore give name to this the 
most extensive of the Atlantic basins of the United 
States; and under this general head, we have be- 
fore us a navigable expanse, in form of an immense 
triangle, the base of which, from the mouth of Che- 
sapeake bay to the sources of Susquehanna riv- 
er, amounts to 400 miles; side along the valley of 
James' river 250 miles; area, including every inflec- 
tion, at least 65,000 square miles. Extending from 
N. lat. 36° 40' to N. lat. 42° 55', and from 1° 45' E. 
to 3° 30' W. long. W. C. 

I have already expressed an opinion that in strict- 
ness of geographical language, Chesapeake bay dif- 
fered from the other sounds upon the Atlantic slope, 
only as having one outlet, in place of two or more. 
It differs, however, in another greatly more impor- 
tant circumstance, that is in depth of water. We 
have seen the shallowness of the rivers and sounds 
to the south-west of Chesapeake. This feature is 
at once reversed in this great recipient, Avhich, al- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 105 

most to the head of its tides, sinks to a depth below 
the largest draught of vessels. 

The Chesapeake stretches in a direction nearly 
due north, from lat. 37° N. to 39° 33' N. or nearly 
180 miles. The breadth is very irregular. Below 
the Potomac, or for about 70 miles, the width ave- 
rages 25 miles; but from the influx of the Potomac 
to that of the Susquehanna the mean width does 
not exceed 10 miles. These elements would yield 
an area below the Potomac of 1750, and above the 
mouth of that river 1100; in all, 2850 square miles. 
If to this we add 750 square miles for the minor 
bays or channels below tide water of James river, 
York, Rappahannock, Potomac, and others of a simi- 
lar nature but of less magnitude, we shall have an 
aggregate superficies of 3600 square miles for Che- 
sapeake bay and its immense branches. 

In the review of this important section of the At- 
lantic slope we shall advance by its constituent val- 
lies, of which that of James river follows that of 
the Roanoke. Entering Chesapeake from the At- 
lantic ocean about 20 miles, an opening appears 
on the left, which is found to be the capacious mouth 
of James' river. This great confluent derives its 
remote sources from the central vallies of the Ap- 
palachian system. If a line was drawn from the 
extreme western fountains of the Roanoke, and ex- 
tended also along those of James river, it would in- 
tersect that part of the mountain system at an angle 
of forty-five degrees nearly; and here we perceive 
at once the peculiar inflections of the river vallies 
of the basins of Susquehanna and Delaware. In 
the higher branches of James river those inflec- 
tions either pursue the course of the mountain val- 
lies, or cross them and the mountain chains at right 
angles. This structure prevails from the sources of 
Roanoke to those of the Delaware, with a regularity 
which evinces a general cause. 

Thus influenced in their courses, the two north- 



106 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

western branches of James river, rising in Pendleton 
and Bath counties, Virginia, flow down the mountain 
valleys S. S. W., meet other streams flowing in a 
directly opposite course, gradually unite, turn to N. 
E. by E.., enter into and receive the waters of Rock- 
bridge county at the northwest base of the Blue 
Ridge. Turning again at right angles, and piercing 
the opposing mountain chain, leaves the great ele- 
vated table land of central Virginia. 

Interlocking sources with the Kenhawa, the Mo- 
nongahela, and Potomac, this mountain section of 
James river is, by actual survey, elevated at a mean 
of about 1500 feet above the Atlantic level ; between 
3r° 20' and 38° 20' N. with a barometrical height 
equivalent to four degrees, the climate is virtually 
that of N. lat. 42° on the Atlantic ocean. 

Below Blue Ridge, James river flows S. E. 20 
miles, to Lynchburgh ; turns thence N. E. 40, and 
again abruptly inflects to S. E. by E. With many 
partial bends, the latter general course is maintain- 
ed 140, to its influx into Chesapeake bay, between 
Willoughbay Point and Old Point Comfort, at N. 
lat. 37°, Ion. W. C. 0° 45' E. 

The Appomattox, entering from the right, 23' 
W. from the meridian of Washington, is the only 
large tributary stream which contributes to aug- 
ment James river on that side below the Blue 
Ridge. The Appomattox rises in Prince Edward 
and Buckingham counties, flows by a general course 
nearly east, falls over the primitive ledge at Peters- 
burgh, and joins the main stream 35 miles below 
Richmond. 

Rivanna from Albemarle and Fluvanna counties, 
and Chickahomina entering almost on the meridian 
of Washington, are the only streams worthy notice 
which flow into James river from the left. 

Following the general line of each ])articular 
course, this fine river has a comparative channel of 
270 miles below the Blue Ridge, and 50 miles in the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 107 

Great Valley below the influx of Cow Pasture river; 
having an entire navigable channel of 320 miles, 
something above one hundred below, and the residue 
above tide water. The tide reaches to Richmond 
in James river, and to Petersburg in the Appomat- 
tox, Ships of the line can enter Hampton Roads, 
and those carrying 40 guns can be navigated to 
Jamestown, 25 miles higher. Merchant ships of 
250 tons ascend to Warwick, and those of 130, to 
Rocketts, or the port of Richmond. The canal 
round the falls at Richmond unites ship to boat na- 
vigation, the latter extending upwards of two hun- 
dred miles. Petersburg is little if any less accessi- 
ble than Richmond to sea A'^essels. 

Since the very dawn of internal improvement in 
the United States, and particularly since the rapid 
augmentation of population in the Ohio valley, the 
channel of James river has attracted public atten- 
tion, as offering a route in connexion with the Great 
Kenhawa to reach the Ohio river. One of the most 
obvious benefits of such a view as this, is to trace 
and place before the reader clear views of the irre- 
gularities in the face of the United States, and to 
enable the statesman and statist to adequately com- 
pare proposed routes of canal or road improvement. 
Independent of elevation, the higher branches of 
James river, and those of Great Kenhawa, below 
the bend of the latter in Montgomery county, Vir- 
ginia, are so relatively placed as to greatly facilitate 
canal operations. The tables will shew, however, 
the respective heights v/hich are to be overcome by 
lock architecture, from which inductions may be 
drawn, and fair comparisons made between canal 
and road improvement. 

Whoever examines the courses of James river on 
a good map, and compares them with the geological 
observations I have made on their peculiar com- 
pliance with the mountain chains, will find that 
the general range of the channel is interrupted by 



108 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

this mountain influence as low as the mouth of Ri- 
vanna, and even to the falls and head of tide water 
at Richmond. An humble, but a very distinct, and 
on the rivers a very influential chain of mountains, 
traverses North Carolina, Virginia, Pennsylvania, 
and New-Jersey. This chain rises in Rutherford 
county, North Carolina, extends through Burke, 
thence separates Wilkes from Iredell, and reaches 
in broken links through Surry and Stokes; enters 
Virginia in Henry, about Ion. 3° W. from W. C. 
In North Carolina this chain takes several local 
names. In Rutherford, Flint hill is its first distinct 
mass ; it is known as Montague hills in Burke ; as 
the Iron mountain between Wilkes and Iredell; and 
as the Pilot mountain in Surry ; and as Sawraton 
mountain in Stokes. It again, as Turkey Cock 
m.ountain, separates Henry from Franklin counties, 
Virginia ; appears in Buckingham and Nelson coun- 
ties, and assumes distinctness as a chain known 
as South-west mountain, in Albemarle. Thence it 
may be traced into Maryland, over Orange, Cul- 
pepper, Fauquier, and past Leesburg, in Loudon, 
crossing the Potomac below the Monocacy. Rising 
into a noted peak, the Sugar Loaf, in the western 
angle of Montgomery county, Maryland, thence it 
separates Montgomery from Frederick, and Frede- 
rick from Baltimore, merging into Pennsylvania in 
York county, nearly on the meridian of Washington. 
Traversing the south-eastern parts of York and Lan- 
caster counties, separates Chester and Montgomery 
from Berks, and Lehigh and Northampton from 
Bucks, crosses Delaware river below Musconecunk 
river, ranges over Hunterdon, Morris, and Bergen 
counties, New Jersey, and is known as the Haver- 
straw mountains in New- York. 

In all this distance of six hundred miles, any per- 
son well acquainted with the physical geography 
of the United States, would detect a chain of moun- 
tains from a correct map of the intermediate rivers. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 109 

The mountain agency is completely apparent in the 
higher branches of the Santee, Pedee, and Roanoke; 
in the courses of James river above and below 
Lynchburg, and in the sources of Rivanna, Rapid 
Ann, and Rappahannoc rivers. It is again very visi- 
ble in the courses of Potomac above and below the 
Monocacy. Similar effects are easily traced in the 
Susquehanna, Schuylkill, Delaware, Raritan, and 
Passaic rivers. 

The remote sources are drawn from the verge of 
the western floetz formation, from which they are 
only separated by the Allegheny or main chain of 
the Appalachian system. Proceeding thence over 
the central secondary, and primitive, reach and pass 
over the sea sand alluvion. 

The minor valley of York river follows that of 
James river. The Pamunkey and North Anna, both 
rise in the south-west mountain, 1° 20' W. from 
W. C, N. lat. 38° 10', in Orange, Albemarle, and 
Louisa counties, and after a course of sixty miles 
each, they unite between Hanover and Caroline to 
form the Pamunkey river. The latter, after a very 
tortuous course of perhaps seventy, but compara- 
tively only forty miles, receives a smaller stream, 
the Mattapony, from the north-west. At their junc- 
tion, the united stream opens into a bay or river, 
thence in a distance of forty miles known as York 
river, to its influx into Chesapeake bay. 

The remarkable valley of the Rappahannoc inter- 
venes between that of York and Potomac. The 
Rappahannoc rises in the Blue Ridge, and in the 
northern part of Culpepper and western part of 
Fauquier counties, one degree west from Washing- 
ton, and at lat. 38° 52' N, Assuming a course 40 
miles to the south east, receives from the west a 
much more considerable stream, the Rapid Ann. 
The latter rises also in the Blue Ridge, and in the 
counties of Madison and Orange. The united vo- 
lume retains the name of Rappahannoc, and twelve 



1 10 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

miles below their junction falls over the primitive 
ledge, and meets the tides between Fredericksburg 
and Falmouth. The Rappahannoc, below its main 
fork above Fredericksburg, in a course of S. E. by 
E. 130 miles, does not receive even a large rivulet. 
Below the falls, similar to other rivers of the Che- 
sapeake basin, this river imperceptibly widens into 
a bay, up which vessels of 140 tons can ascend to 
Fredericksburg. 

The progress of our survey now brings us into the 
very important valley of the Potomac. If we turn 
our eye to a map of Virginia, Maryland, and Penn- 
sylvania, we find, interlocking sources with James 
river. Great Kenhawa, Monongahela, and Susque- 
hannah, a series of rivers, north-west from the Blue 
Ridge, and flowing along the mountain valleys ; 
those of Virginia and Maryland having their courses 
to the north-east, and those of Pennsylvania to the 
south-west, whilst a middle stream is perceived 
rising west of all the chains but two of the Appala- 
chian system, and forcing its devious way across the 
system toAvards the Atlantic ocean. This series of 
rivers unite to form the Potomac, the extreme west- 
ern sources of which rise 2^ 45' W. from W. C. 
The south and main branch of Potomac rises in and 
drains Pendleton county, in Virginia, heading with, 
but flowing in a directly opposite course to Green- 
briar branch of Great Kenhawa, and Jackson's and 
Cow Pasture branches of James river. The south 
branch rises as far south as N. lat. 38° 25', complete- 
ly overheading the sources of the Monongahela. 
Flowing N. E. about 100 miles, between the Alle- 
gheny -and Kittatinny chains, meets from the west 
an inferior stream, but to which the general name 
of Potomac is applied. 

The Potomac rises in a ridge locally called the 
Backbone mountain, at N. lat. 39° 12', and flowing 
thence N. E. 30 miles, receives a small but impor- 
tant branch. Savage river, from the N. E.; then 



GEOGKAFHICAL VIEW. 1 1 1 

turns at right angles to the S E., and piercing two 
chains of mountains in about 10 miles, inflects again 
to the N. E. 20 miles to Cumberland. Here once 
more the Potomac is inflected to the south-east, by 
the opposing mountain masses, across which its vo- 
lume is precipitated, and 20 miles below Cumber- 
land meets the south branch, and a short distance 
below once more turns to north-east to Hancock's 
town. At this point the Potomac has reached its 
most northern bend, N. lat. 39*^ 40', and within little 
more than two miles from the southern boundary of 
Pennsylvania. Turning to south-east below Han- 
cock's town, it passes the Kittatinny chain, and with 
many partial windings, but a general course of 40 
miles, receives the Shenandoah from the south-west, 
and breaks through the Blue Ridge at Harper's 
Ferry. 

The Shenandoah is the southernmost branch of 
Potomac, rising in the south-west angle of Augusta 
county, at N. lat. 38*^ 55'. Draining the whole of 
Augusta, Rockingham, and Shenandoah, and part 
of Frederick and Jefferson counties, the Shenandoah 
is truly a river of the great Appalachian valley be- 
tween the two chains of Blue Ridge and Kittatinny. 
The main stream follows the range of the former 
chain, at a distance of from two to five miles, re- 
ceiving its tributary branches from the west or left. 

The Shenandoah valley is 130 miles in length, with 
a mean width of 20; area, 2600 square miles, with a 
considerable difference of elevation. By reference 
to table 4th, page 70, it will be seen that the surface 
of the water at Harper's Ferry is 182 feet above 
tide water at Georgetown, whilst by comparison with 
the first element in tables 2 and 3, it will be evident 
that the sources of Shenandoah must exceed one 
thousand feet. 

That spot where the Potomac and Shenandoah 
intermingle, has gained a celebrity which must en- 
dure as long as sublime scenery and the name of 



1 12 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Thomas Jefferson continue to excite admiration. 
Harper's Ferry is at N. lat. 39° 18', Ion. W. C. 0° 38' 
W. That part of the valley of Potomac above the Blue 
Ridge extends in latitude from 38° to the sources of 
the Conococheague, 40'% or through two degrees of 
latitude, in the direction nearly of S. W. and N. E. 
It lies in form of a nearly regular parallelogram, 150 
by 50; area, 7500 square miles. 

Leaving the attractive mountain pass at Harper's 
Ferry, the general course to south-east is continued 
to the mouth of Monocacy 10 or 12 miles, where it 
passes the last distinct chain of mountains, and inflec- 
ting a few miles to the south, resumes a south-east 
course, which is maintained to the head of tide wa- 
ter at Georgetown, fifty miles below the mountain 
pass at Harper's Ferry. Below tide water the Po- 
tomac imperceptibly loses the features of a river in 
that of a bay, winds between Georgetown and the 
Navy Yard at Washington to a southern course, and 
below Alexandria inclines to the west of south 40 
miles; sweeps round to N, E. 15 miles, and finally 
regaining a S. E. direction about 50 miles, opens in- 
to Chesapeake bay, at N. lat, 38°, having returned 
to the latitude of its most southern source, the She- 
nandoah. 

In its natural state the Potomac is the most navi- 
gable branch of Chesapeake ; ships of any burthen 
of war or of commerce, can be navigated to Alexan- 
dria, and vessels of very heavy burthen to Wash- 
ington navy-yard. This is the most distant point 
from the ocean that ships of the line can be naviga- 
ted in the United States. It is upwards of one hun- 
dred miles from the Atlantic ocean, at the mouth of 
the Delaware, the nearest point of that ocean ; and 
from the entrance of the Chesapeake, near two hun- 
dred miles. 

The attention of the philosopher and statesman 
will be secured to the central position of the Poto- 
mac valley ; its reaching almost over the Appala- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 113 

chian system of mountains, and with these natural, 
the political advantage of containing the capital of 
the nation. It is the business of the author of this 
view to collect and record data, and leave their ap- 
plication to those more directly cencerned. The 
general elevations and the connexion of the Potomac 
valley with that of Ohio, are given in table 4., page 
70; and it may be observed here, that seven or eight 
feet are about the mean term of canal locks already 
made in either Europe or America; and that the ca- 
nal uniting the head waters of the Volga with Lake 
Ladoga, by the small rivers Emsta and Twere, ele- 
vation 568 feet, is the highest canal navigation yet 
actually executed ; and there " The rivers Emsta 
and Twere, near the summit level, have not suffi- 
cient water for a constant supply ; and it is necessa- 
ry to pound up the waters and lakes, for a flash, or 
artifcial flood. This is accomplished by pen sluices, 
and some short cuts." 

The next stream entering the western shore of 
Chesapeake bay after the Potomac, is the Patuxent. 
Obeying in a very striking manner the great inflec- 
tions of the Potomac, the Patuxent rises in the south- 
east mountain, on the south-east border of Frederick, 
and near the connecting angle of Montgomery, Bal- 
timore, and Frederick counties, at N. lat. 39° 20', 
long. W. C. 0° 08' W. Thence flowing south-east 
35 miles, reaches to within five from the tide water 
of Chesapeake bay; inflecting thence nearly south 
30 miles, at a distance of from eight to ten miles 
from the Chesapeake, it again gradually bends to 
south-east 25 miles, opens into a bay from two to 
three miles wide, until merged in the general reci- 
pient, between Calvert and St. Mary^s counties. 

Next above the Patuxent, spreads a small valley 
to which Baltimore has given incalculable impor- 
tance. The Patapsco rises in the south-east moun- 
tain along the borders of Baltimore and Frederick 
counties, and flowing S. E, by E. 30 miles^ unite and 
■S.2 ' 



114 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

fall over the primitive ledge, opening Into the Chesa- 
peake by a bay of ten or twelve miles in length. At 
the head of Patapsco bay, on a small haven at the 
mouth of Falls creek on the primitive ledge, stands 
the city of Baltimore, N. lat. 39° 18', long. 0« 27' E. 
from Washington City. Vessels of 600 tons are na- 
vigated to Fell's Point, the lower harbour of Balti- 
more. 

The small valleys of Patapsco, Gunpowder, and 
Bush river, fill the space between the upper Patux- 
ent, and the creeks of the lower Susquehanna. 

The eastern or left shore of Chesapeake bay, for 
about 50 miles, composing the Virginia point, is but 
little broken by bays; but with lat. SS'^ 03', nearly on 
the Maryland line, opens Pocomoke bay and river, 
leading to Snow Hill, in Worcester county; thence, 
turning Watkin's point, the small bay of Manokin 
leads to Princess Ann, and the Wicomico to White 
Haven. Nanticoke river rises in Sussex county, of 
Delaware, and flowing south-west, enters Maryland, 
separating Somerset and Dorchester counties, form- 
ing with Wicomico, Fishing bay. W^ith an intervening 
peninsula, forming Dorchester county, we next enter 
the bay and river Choptank. This is the most consi- 
derable stream of the eastern shore of Maryland, rises 
in Kent and Sussex counties, Delaware, and flowing S. 
S. W., enters Maryland, and after a course of 50 
miles turns toN. W. and dilates into a bay of about 
15 miles, on one of the arms of which. Tread Haven, 
stands Easton, in Talbot county, the most important 
mart of eastern Maryland. Next follows the small 
bay of St. Michael's; and on N. lat. 39°, the mouth of 
Chester bay, formed by a small river rising in Dela- 
ware, and flowing thence south-west, 35 miles, be- 
tween Kent and Queen Ann counties, opens by a 
wide bay into Chesapeake; Sassafras, separating 
Kent and Cecil, and finally, Elk river flowing out of 
Pennsylvania and Delaware, Into Cecil county, Ma- 
ryland. 



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GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 119 

much to remove before their streams can flow with 
tranquil or equal motion. 

This feature in the geography of the United States 
is highly favourable to canal operations, in forming 
a union between the Atlantic and central waters. 
The rivers have, during accumulated centuries, done 
that which man could not have dared to conceive. 
The rivers have torn the mountains to their bases, 
and given to human beings, and the fruits of their 
toil, a free passage. Man in his feebleness is re- 
lieved from labours beyond his aggregate force, and 
left to remoA'e mere obstructions- When this sub- 
ject is viewed with the eye of philosophy, it is one 
of those sources of reflection which gives exercise to 
every noble faculty of the mind. 

Below Tioga Point, the already large volume of 
the Susquehanna flows a little east of south 15 miles 
tothenorth-Avesternfoot of the Appalachian system, 
which it encounters at Towanda creek, near Means- 
ville, in Bradford county, Pennsylvania, and thence, 
turning to south-east, pierces the first chain, and 
flowing 30 miles, reaches the Tunkhannock creek 
and chain, having now passed over the secondary 
and entered on the transition formation. Breaking 
the Tunkhannock, and some other chains, the Sus- 
quehanna finally, at the mouth of the Lackawannock, 
9 miles above the town of Wilkesbarre, enters the 
Wyoming valley, and winds to the southwest. Con- 
tinuing the latter course down the mountain valleys 
about 70 miles, to the influx of the western branch, 
between the villages of Northumberland and Sun- 
bury. 

In all its course of 120 miles, from Tioga Point to 
Sunbury, the Susquehanna receives no tributary 
stream of fifty miles comparative course. Wyalu- 
sing, Tunkhannock, Lackawannock, and Nescopec 
from the left, and Towanda, Mahoopeny, Bowman's, 
and Fishing creeks from the right, are merely bold 
and fine, but only small mountain torrents. 



120 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

The Western Branch is, in all its extent, exclu- 
sively a river of Pennsylvania. Rising far within 
the central secondary, its extreme western sources 
in Indiana and Cambria counties, are within 35 miles 
from the Alleghany river at Kittanning, and about 
60 miles from the junction of the Alleghany and 
Ohio at Pittsburg. Draining sections of Cambria, 
Indiana, and Clearfield counties by a general course 
of N. E. 70 miles, the West Branch receives the 
Sinnamahoning from the north-west, and at the 
northern angle of Centre county. Below the en- 
trance of Sinnamahoning, the West Branch contin- 
ues north-east ten miles, thence turning 20 miles to 
the south-east, receives Bald Eagle river from the 
south-west. Thus far of its course the West Branch 
drains the central secondary, but immediately above 
the influx of the Bald Eagle, it breaks through the 
Alleghany or main chain of the Appalachian sys- 
tem, and entering on the transition, turns to a little 
north of east. Receiving the two large creeks Pine 
and Loyalsack from the northward^ and passing 
William sport, this now noble stream continues its 
course of nearly east, forty miles from Bald Eagle 
creek to Pennsboro'. In the vicinity of the latter 
village, the stream turns to nearly south, twenty- 
five miles to its junction with the north-east branch, 
at Sunbury, and thirty-five from thence to the influx 
of the Juniata from the west. 

Juniata, the southwest branch of the Susquehan- 
na, rises in and drains the northern part of Bedford 
county ; flowing from the south-eastern side of the 
Alleghany chain, and thence about 20 miles nearly 
east, passes Bedford, and rushing through several 
minor chains, turns abruptly to a course a little east 
of north 40 miles, receives the Frankstown branch 
near the borough of Huntingdon. The general 
course of Frankstown branch is from north-west to 
south-east, and below their junction the united 
stream continues that course 15 miles, to its passage 



GEOGHAPHICAL VIEW. Ul 

through Jack's mountain, between Huntingdon and 
Mifflin counties. Again inflected to north-east, the 
Juniata enters Mifflin county, and pursuing that di- 
rection nearly thirty miles, passes Lewistown, and 
again winding to south-east, breaks through Shade 
mountain into Tuscarora valley; and thence, cross- 
ing that valley, in a course of 10 miles reaches the 
north-west base of Tuscarora mountain, where it 
once more bends to the north-east, and following the 
base of the mountain 10 miles, turns to south-east, 
and forming a passage through, leaves Mifflin and 
enters Perry county, over which it continues 15 miles 
to its junction with the Susquehanna, nearly on the 
meridian of W. C. and N. lat. 40° 23'. 

Like every other branch of the Susquehanna, the 
Juniata is as noted for the number of its rapids as for 
its exemption from perpendicular falls. Though 
originating in, and havmg its whole course amongst 
craggy mountains, it is navigable, at high water, to 
near Bedford. In speculative opinion on the means, 
and most suitable route, to form a water communi- 
cation between either the Delaware or Chesapeake 
basms, and the valley of Ohio, the Juniata has been 
conspicuously held in view. How far this route is 
comparatively eligible, is a problem now advancing 
towards complete solution, by a canal. 

The Juniata is the last tributary of importance 
which enters the Susquehanna. The Conedogwinet, 
Yellow-Breeches, Conewago, Codorus, and Deer 
creek, from the right, and below Sunbury on the 
left, the Mahanoy, Mahantango, Swatara, Conesto- 
ga, and Octoraro, are comparatively creeks, none of 
them having a general course of 50 miles. The 
Swatara is important, however, as its valley forms 
part of the route of the Union Canal. 

We have already seen that from Pennsboro' to 
the influx of the Juniata, the Susquehanna pursues 
a course of very nearly due south 60 miles. Though 
not appearing so on our maps, from the deficiency 



122 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of their representation of the chains, the southern 
course of the Susquehanna, below Pennsboro' to the 
mouth of the Juniata, is actually the most moun- 
tainous part of its course by either branch. Inde- 
pendent of minor ridges, in this distance of 60 miles, 
this remarkable river traverses six or seven of the 
principal chains, and even at the last curve to the 
south-east, below the Juniata, it has not yet passed 
the Appalachian system, but again in a course of 80 
miles, it carries its now immense volume, through 
the Kittatinny 5 miles above, and through the Blue 
Ridge, 8 miles below Harrisburg ; and lastly, the 
south-east mountain, below the Conestoga. From 
the Blue Ridge the channel becomes more and more 
interrupted with shoals and rapids, until the stream 
pours over the last rocky ledge, and loses its name 
and rank as a river in the Chesapeake bay. 

The valley of the Susquehanna, from its position 
naturally and politically, and from its peculiar fea- 
tures, must at all future times attract a full share of 
attention from the traveller and statesman. I have 
often observed that rivers were the most diversified 
objects in nature, and defied generalization most ef- 
fectually. To be adequately understood, they must 
be studied individually. The three rivers, Susque- 
hanna, Delaware, and Hudson, are contiguous to 
each other, and the former has interlocking sources 
with the two latter, and all pierce the entire Appa- 
lachian system; and yet, in those intrinsic features 
which give character, no three rivers can be more 
strikingly distinct. It is true, that in their respec- 
tive courses, the Susquehanna and Delaware pre- 
sent an accordance, which must have arisen from 
some general and inherent structure of the country 
they drain; but here the resemblance ceases. In- 
cluding all its higher, and in particular its north- 
east branches, tlie Susquehanna is peculiar in the 
physiognomy of its vallies. Very wide bottoms of 
two, and often three stages, spread along the con- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 123 

vex side of the bends; whilst along the concave rise 
steep, frequently precipitous, and sometimes moun- 
tainous banks. Here are at once, and over a large 
space, combined in never ending variety, the most 
bold and the most soft and tranquil scenery ; the 
fine glassy surface of the rivers, bordered on one 
side by wide spreading vales, rising by acclivity af- 
ter acclivity, and on the other by high swelling or 
abruptly rocky walls. 

Exuberant fertility is here followed on an almost 
perceptible line, by the sterile though wood-clothed 
mountain. The varied hue of the foliage again gives 
a truly rich drapery to the landscape. The natu- 
ral timber of the bottoms, differ materially from that 
of the mountains. On the former, sugar-maple, 
black walnut, elm, beech, and other trees indicative 
of a productive soil abound. Rising to the higher 
stage, the deep green of the pine is seen intermin- 
gled with the softer and lighter tints of the timber of 
the vales. On the slopes and even summits of the 
mountains, we meet the pine, oak, and chesnut, and 
above the Lackawannock, the hemlock. 

As a navigable stream, the Susquehanna is much 
less interrupted by rapids, or dangerous shoals, than 
might be expected from the tortuous course it pur- 
sues through an extensive mountain system. It is 
also a feature strongly marked, though common to 
the other rivers of the Atlantic slope, that where 
the volume of water passes the particular chains, 
rapids seldom, and perpendicular falls no where 
occur. 

On so large a space as that of the Susquehanna 
valley, mere difference of latitude would superin- 
duce a sensible difference of climate ; but here re- 
spective elevation enters as a very powerful ele- 
ment, in changes of temperature. The mouth of 
the Susquehanna, at Havre de Grace, is at N. lat. 
39° 33', one degree east from Washington City. The 
extreme northern sources, are, as I have already 



124 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

noticed, at N. lat 42° 55\ between one and two de- 
grees east of Washington. This gives a difference 
of three degrees and twenty minutes of latitude; but 
by recurrence to table 5th it will be perceived, that 
the summit level between the Chemung at New- 
town and Seneca lake, is 885 feet above the level of 
the Atlantic tides, and the pass between Newtown 
and Seneca being a movmtain valley, falls far short 
of the mean elevation of that part of New York 
comprised in the counties of Tioga, Cortland, Che- 
nango, and Otsego. The latter region is safely es- 
timated at a height of 1000 feet, or equivalent to 
at least 2^ degrees of latitude. Thvis we find, that 
in effect, the climate of the basin of Susquehanna 
differs upwards of five degrees in temperature. 
Again, if we examine the relative position of the 
mountain valleys of Pennsylvania, drained by the 
West-Branch, and the Juniata, and compare the ele- 
ments in tables 4 and 5; we are warranted in stating 
the mean height of that region at 1200 feet, or 
equivalent to three degrees of latitude. Therefore, 
all the higher sources of the Susquehanna, flow vir- 
tually from N. lat. 44° or 45°, if reduced to the ocean 
level. 

Though m'lch less extensive than the preceding, 
the basin of the Delaware is a very important link 
in the chain of rivers along the Atlantic slope. The 
Delaware rises by two branches in the western spurs 
oftheCatsbergs. TbeCoquago to the north-west, and 
the Popachton to the south-east, flow from their 
sources, south-west 50miies, draining the central and 
south-eastern part of Delaware county. New York. 
Kcaching within 5 miles from the north-east angle 
of Pennsylvania, and within 10 from the Susque- 
hanna river, the Coquag-o turns to south-east, and 
continuing that course 15 or 16 miles, receives tlie 
Popachton. With rather serpentine indivichial wind- 
ings, the Delaware maintains a south-cast direction 
60 miles from the n<M-th-cast angle of Pennsylvania 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 125 

to the mouth of the Nevisink river from Orange 
county, New- York, Encountering the Kittatimiy 
chain of mountains, the Delaware then turns to 
south-west, almost washing the mountain base, 
35 miles, to the mouth of Broadhead's creek, from 
Pike and Northampton counties. Curving to the 
south, the Delaware now passes the Kittatinny by 
what is usually called the Delaware water gap, and 
enters the fine mountain valley between the Kitta- 
tinny and Blue Ridge chains. Continuing south, it re- 
ceives the first large confluent, the Lehigh, at the 
foot of the latter ridge, and opposite Easton; then 
pierces that chain, and again 5 miles below, breaks 
through the south-east mountain, and winds to the 
south-east, having flowed in a southern direction 
30 miles. Pursuing a south-eastern course of 35 
miles below the south-east mountain, falls over the 
primitive ledge at Trenton, there meets the Atlan- 
tic tide, and at Bordentown, five miles still lower, 
once again bends to south-west. Passing along or 
near the outer verge of the primitive, this now- 
widening stream continues 40 miles, passes Phila- 
delphia; 5 miles below that city, receives the Schuyl- 
kill, from the north-west; and thence passing Ches- 
ter, Wilmington, and Newcastle, opens into a bay 
5 miles below the latter village. The Delaware bay 
again turns and opens to the Atlantic ocean to the 
south-east. 

The length of the Delaware from the Catsbergs 
to tide water at Trenton is 185 miles, and 120 from 
the rapids at Trenton to the Atlantic ocean, having 
an entire comparative course of 305 miles. Though 
rolling over numerous rapids, no cataracts, in the 
true sense of that term, interrupt the navigation of 
this river, which, at seasons of high water, extends 
by both branches into New York. The general 
course is very nearly from north to south, along a 
meridian two degrees east from W. C. 

Similar to the Susquehanna and the Potomac, the 
l2 



126 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Delaware receives its only two large confluents from 
the right. These are the Lehigh and Schuylkill. 

From the position of their valleys as channels of 
inter-communication, and from the mineral trea- 
sures found along their mountain sources, the Schuyl- 
kill and the Lehigh have become of great impor- 
tance. The Lehigh rises by various mountain 
branches in Northampton, Pike, Wayne, and Lu- 
zerne counties, uniting below Stoddartsville, and 
forming a small and precipitous river current, which 
pouring first to the south-west, gradually turns 
south, and thence south-east, passes Mauch Chunk 
village, and struggling between mountain masses, fi- 
nally escapes through the Kittatinny range, and con- 
tinuing to the south-east, meets the north-west base 
of the Blue Ridge at AUentown, in Lehigh county. 
Here it turns to the north-east, along the foot of the 
latter chain, and passing Bethlehem joins the Dela- 
ware at Easton. The Lehigh is truly a mountain 
torrent. There is perhaps no other stream of the 
United States, except Schoharie in New York, of 
equal length, which presents so great difference of 
level between the points of source and discharge. 

In comparative course, it is about 25 miles from 
Stoddartsville to Mauch Chunk, and the interme- 
diate fall amounts to 845 feet. Ten miles below 
Mauch Chunk, in a direct line, this stream passes 
the Kittatinny, and in the uitermediate space falls 
245 feet. From the Lehigh water gap, or passage 
through the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Dela- 
ware, it falls 205 feet in a comparative course of 35 
miles. The entire fall from Stoddartsville to Eas- 
ton being 1210 feet: comparative course TO miles, 
or upwards of 17 feet to the mile. The distance 
from the town of Stoddartsville to the extreme source 
is from 15 to 20 miles, with a fall it is probable of 
500 feet, giving to this small river a course of 100 
nijles, and fall' of 1700 feet; and what may be con- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. - 127 

sidered in a peculiar manner remarkable, no ac- 
tual cataract worthy notice exists in all its course. 

Above the water gap, the bed of the Lehigh lies 
at the base of steeply rising and often precipitous 
mountains, leaving between them seldom more space 
than the mere width of the stream. The scenery is 
in a high degree wild, grand, picturesque, and fre- 
quently sublime. Below the Kittatinny, the features 
of nature are less magnificent, but still follow in a 
romantic succession of strongly contrasted and ele- 
gant landscape. This varied and pleasing charac- 
ter of its shores gives a delightful diversity to the 
vicinity of Allentown, Bethlehem, and Easton. The 
banks of this beautiful river most highly reward the 
enlightened traveller; one scene alone upon it would 
repay a journey of many hundred miles; that scene 
is Mauch Chunk, with its inexhaustible mines of 
coal, and the stupendous works erected and erecting 
to procure this valuable mineral. 

The Lehigh is now rendered navigable by dams 
and falling locks for some distance above Mauch 
Chunk. 'I'his very useful and arduous work has 
been effected by the Lehigh Coal and Navigation 
Company, under the direction of White and Haz- 
zard, the superintending engineers. The discovery 
of immense masses of anthracite coal, made in its 
vicinity, led to the improvement of the river, and the 
roads leading from it to the mines. 

Similar mineral wealth in interminable strata of 
anthracite coal, led to the improvement and import- 
ance of the Schuylkill. The latter rises in and drains 
about the five-eighths of Schuylkill county. Formed 
by two branches interlocking sources with the Le- 
high, Nescopec, Cattawissa, Mahanoy, Mahantango, 
and Sv/atara,the Schuylkill bursts through the Kitta- 
tinny chain, between Berks and Schuylkill counties, 
after a course of 35 miles from the west. Below its 
passage through the Kittatinny, it turns to nearly 
south 20 miles, in which distance it has received 



1S8 GEOGUAPHICAL VIEW. 

Maiden creek from the north, and Tulpehocken 
from the west^ and passes Reading, immediately 
below which town it pierces Blue Ridge, and as- 
sumes a south-eastern course. In the latter direction 
this river continues to the environs of Philadelphia 
50 miles, winding to nearly south at the mouth of 
the Wissahiccon, and, passing through the western 
part of Philadelphia, is lost in the superior volume 
of the Delaware 5 miles below that city. 

The entire comparative length of the valley of 
the Schuylkill is about 100 miles, 20 above and 80 
below the Kittatinny chain, 

A strong resemblance is perceivable between the 
Schuylkill and Lehigh, though the scenery along the 
former is less rugged and rich than upon the latter 
stream. Flowing from the same mountain valley, 
the soil and mineral productions are in a great mea- 
sure similar on the two streams : but in situ, the re- 
spective masses of anthracite are very differently 
distributed, in the Mauch Chunk mountain, and any 
other mine of that fossil which I have visited or 
been made acquainted with in either the Delaware 
or Susquehanna basins= That of Mauch Chunk 
lies in immense irregular strata, open in one place 
to the day on the summit of the mountain, and with 
little if any regular inclination; on the contrary, the 
mines on the Schuylkill and the valley of Vv'^yoming, 
near Wilkesbarre, dip like the other incumbent 
and decumbent strata. 

The Schuylkill is now navigable by canals and 
locks to a few miles above Mount Carbon, near its 
source, ten miles above Orwicsburg ; and the Union 
Canal Company have completed a channel of water 
communication by the Tulpehocken and Swatara, 
into the Susquehanna at Middletown. A canal is 
again in progress from the Delaware, opposite 
Easton, through New Jersey, which when opened 
will serve as an aquatic line of transmission between 
the Delaware and Hudson basins. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 129 

Of that part of the Delaware basin comprised in 
New Jersey little need be said, no large tributary 
stream entering from that section, composed of a 
strip 200 miles by a mean width of about 15, or 3000 
square miles. Small as it is, however, in a general 
view, that part of the Delaware basin occupies 
about one-half the State of New Jersey. 

Similar to the Susquehanna, the Delaware rises 
on the western or central secondary, and traverses 
over all the intermediate formations in its passage 
to its recipient. The minerals yet discovered in 
any great abundance m the two basins are, iron and 
anthracite coal. 

Observations made on the climate of the Susque- 
hanna basin may be correctly applied to that of 
Delaware. The difference of latitude between the 
mouth of Delaware bay and the sources of Coquago 
river is 3^ 45', and the difference of elevation at least 
1500 feet. Combining these elements, the real dif- 
ference of temperature will be nearly, if not altoge- 
ther, seven degrees. 

It is a remark that may be made universal, that 
such rivers as the Susquehanna, Delaware, Hudson, 
and Connecticut, must have very mitigated spring 
floods, as the temperature must be at all times high- 
er at the mouth than at the source; and consequent- 
ly, the ice and snow progressively melt up, and not 
down the river. In all parts of the earth rivers 
flowing towards the poles have more rapid and ex- 
cessive inundations than those otherwise similar in 
magnitude of volume, but having a reverse course 
from a more polar to a more southern latitude. 

Confining our survey rigidly to the actual surface 
drained by the given rivers, and contained in the 
waters flowing into each recipient, has left out of 
our sketch of the Chesapeake basin any specific no- 
tice of that long strip of coast from Cape Charles to 
Cape Henlopen; and fromCape May to Sandy Hook. 

The character of coast noticed as commencins; at 



130 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

the mouth of Pedee or Winy aw bay, is fully pre- 
served along the Atlantic shores from the Chesa- 
peake to New York bay, or, more correctly, outlet 
of the Hudson. In a distance of 120 miles from Cape 
Charles to Cape Henlopen, not a single eminence 
rises; long sandy islands, with extended but shallow 
sounds, with no opening which merits the title of a 
harbour. The slope drained into the Atlantic 
ocean between the Chesapeake and Delaware bays, 
is therefore in a comprehensive view an uninterest- 
ing line of 120 miles, by a mean width of about 5 ; 
or area 600 square miles. 

Crossing Delaware bay we again traverse another 
line of Atlantic coast, of similar features and very 
nearly similar length, but of more depth inland. 
The Atlantic shore of New Jersey has more nume- 
rous, deeper, and more spacious inlets than exist in 
the preceding range of coast. Great Eggharbour, 
Little Eggharbour, Barnegat, Tom's bay, Shark in- 
let, and the united bays of Shrewsbury and Nevi- 
sink, and some other inlets of lesser note of New 
Jersey, afford shelter to vessels of considerable 
draught. The general surface, though still mono- 
tonous, swells perceptibly more above the level of 
the ocean; and finally, approaching Sandy Hook, 
rise on the fatigued, but now relieved sight, the 
Nevisink hills, the first eminence of any height de- 
serving notice from Cape Florida, through 15° 30' 
-of lat., or, following the coast, more than 1350 miles. 

The Atlantic slope of New Jersey is in length, 
about 125 miles, pursuing the elliptical inflection of 
the coast, with a mean width of 20 miles; area 2500 
square miles. 

In respect to temperature, it may be remarked, 
that the sandy alluvial border of the Atlantic slope, 
is warmer than can arise comparatively from either 
its elevation or geographic polar distance. Proxi- 
mity to an open ocean is one cause of this phenome- 
non, but the higher temperature of that ocean itself 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 131 

than could arise from geographic position, must be 
sought in more remote and controlling causes, and is 
found in the Trade winds, or rather in the effect of 
these winds, the Gulf stream. 

With the basin of the Delaware terminates the 
middle section of the Atlantic slope, and before 
proceeding with a review of the north-eastern sec- 
tion I may be indulged in a few remarks. 

I have, on more than one occasion, expressed the 
opinion, and sustained that opinion from the promi- 
nent ^features of nature, that in every essential re- 
spect, the Chesapeake and Delaware peninsula, 
lower New Jersey, and Long Island were specifi- 
cally similar; and that Chesapeake bay, Delaware 
bay, and Long Island sound differed in nature only, 
in the circumstance of the latter having two en- 
trances to the adjacent ocean. 

The Susquehanna and Delaware in the lower part 
of their courses flow parallel to, rather than towards 
their recipients. This is so much the case with the 
latter river, that more than 30 miles above the head 
of tide water at Trenton, the channel lies parallel 
to, and distant only from 30 to 40 miles from the op- 
posite Atlantic coast, outside of Amboy bay. A 
short distance, however, below the head of the tides, 
the Delaware turns to south-west, and pursues that 
direction 60 miles, and by a peculiar coincidence, 
the Susquehanna, after breaking through the Kitta- 
tinny and Blue Ridge chains, assumes a south-eastern 
course of 60 miles. Thus these two noble rivers 
obliquely approach to within twenty miles of actual 
confluence. But in place of mingling their streams, 
the Susquehanna dilates into an immense bay, turns 
to south, receives numerous and large tributaries 
from the west, and meets the ocean after having in- 
dented the continent 180 miles; the Delaware also 
rejecting a union with its rival, winds to the south- 
east, and opens into a wide bay, upwards of 100 
miles distant from the entrance of the Chesapeake. 



132 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

If again we return still farther south, we find a 
like conformation of coast in the Chowan, and other 
rivers and sounds. 

These observations appear trite and puerile, until 
we glance at the moral and political effects of such 
a physical arrangement. In alluvial coasts similar 
phenomena are to be found over the earth; but com- 
pared with the Atlantic coast of the United States, 
these phenomena are elsewhere very limited in de- 
gree. China is, however, the only other region of the 
earth, with which in respect to any extensive physi- 
cal theory the United States can be with any cor- 
rectness compared; and it is truly worthy of atten- 
tion, that what is called the Grand Canal of China, 
is only a chain of small artificial connexions with 
the natural channels of rivers, sounds, and lakes ; 
and that acme of European canal science, the lock, 
is yet unknown in China. It cannot be deemed na- 
tional vanity to state, that the territory of the 
United States, combined with modern science, will 
in all human probability effect in a brief period of 
time, not only the most extensive inland navigation, 
but also the most extensive improvements of that 
kind which the face of the earth will admit. 



133 



CHAPTER V. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE NORTH-EASTERN 
SECTION OF THE ATLANTIC SLOPE OF THE 
UNITED STATES. 

Iif strictness, the basin of the Hudson, including 
the minor but important basins of the Rariton and 
Passaick, is more naturally connected with that of 
Delaware, than with the Connecticut ; and farther, 
when we examine the Appalachian system of moun- 
tains we discover ample lines of demarcation to jus- 
*'tify the divisions we have made. If we turn our 
eye to a good general map of the United States, and 
commence our review with the mouth of the Alata- 
maha, we behold from that estuary to Cape Hatte- 
ras, the Atlantic coast and the Appalachian system 
pursuing an almost parallel course of about N. 50*^ 
E., and from the Blue Ridge nearly two hundred 
miles apart. 

At Cape Hatteras, the Atlantic coast turns to N. 
12" 33' E., if we estimate the whole distance to Am- 
boy bay, distance 426 miles. In this section of the 
United States, the mountain system and Atlantic 
coast incline upon each other at an angle of about 
40 degrees. By such inclination the mountains ap- 
proach, and at the outlet of the Hudson range with- 
in 25 miles from the ocean. 

When delineating the Appalachian system, the 
great inflection made in New York has been shewn; 
and that, from the basins of the Susquehanna and 
Delaware, north-eastward, the range of the moun- 
tains are like that of the rivers from north to south, 
I have also shewn, that the mountain chains were 



134 GEOGRAPI-nCx\L VIEW. 

enibedded in the earth in solid cores, which 
were in many places partially overlaid, and con- 
cealed the continuity of the chain, which con- 
tinuity was in numerous instances demonstrat- 
ed by the inflections of the rivers. The North 
River or Hudson is, however, an anomaly in the na- 
tural history of Atlantic rivers. On either side of 
this peculiar chasm in the continent, the Atlantic 
tides are arrested by or near the primitive strata, but 
in the Hudson basin tides find a level nearly 150 
miles above the outer verge of the primitive, and pe- 
netrate to contact with the central secondary. 

The Hudson is formed by two branches, the Hud- 
son proper, and the Mohawk. Each of these con- 
fluents deserves particular attention from having be- 
come the channels of canals actually executed and 
now in full use. The Mohawk rises principally in 
Oneida county, interlocking with Black river of 
Lake Ontario; flowing south about 20 miles, it sud- 
denly turns to south-east at Rome. Here is the 
highest summit level, from Hudson river, near Alba- 
ny, into Lake Ontario, 421 feet above the tides in 
the Atlantic ocean. In a state of nature, the waters 
of the Mohawk, at Rome, in high floods, divide; one 
part following the channel towards the Hudson, and 
the other part flowed down Wood creek into Oneida 
lake; consequently, the upper Mohawk had two re- 
cipients, the Hudson and St. Lawrence. Since used 
as a i)art of the Erie canal, the level, near Rome, 
is continued each way, and the canal carried up- 
wards of 60 miles on one plain. From this table 
land the Mohawk flows south-east 28 miles to where 
it receives the first considerable northern confluent. 
West Canada, about one mile below the village of 
Herkimer. Here it assumes nearly an eastern 
course of five miles to the Little Falls, where it 
passes the Catsbcrg chain over a ledge of primitive 
rocks. Below the Little Falls the Mohawk turns to 
S. E. bv E. 70 miles, receives East Canada from 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 135 

tlic north, and Schoharie from the south, passes 
over the Cahoes Falls, and joins the Hudson at Wa- 
terford, after an entire comparative course of 123 
miles. 

This basin is remarkable as forming a deep vale 
through the chains of the Appalachian system; and 
for rising on the central secondary and forming 
its outlet into the ocean tides. The Erie canal is 
carried, except in one instance, between Schenec- 
tady and Albany, along the right or southern side. 
The extreme north-western source of this fine river 
is in Lewis county, N. lat. 43° 31^ long. W. C. 1° 
35' E. ; its junction v/ith the Hudson at N, lat. 42"^ 
46', long. W. C.^ 3° 20' E. 

The Hudson is formed by two branches, Hudson 
proper and Sacondago. The remote north-western 
sources of the Hudson rise at once in a mountainous 
and marshy region of Essex and Hamilton counties; 
but another branch called the N. E. Hudson rises in 
Essex, between the main branch and Lake George, 
After a general course S. S. E. of 40 miles each, 
the two branches unite in Warren, and continuing 
south 15 miles, receives the Sacondago, between 
Warren and Saratoga. The Sacondago rises, one 
branch in the western part of Warren, and another 
in the south-eastern angle of Hamilton. Flowing 
south about 40 miles, to the village of Fish-house, 
now Northampton, on the line between Montgome- 
ry and Saratoga, the Sacondago rapidly turns to N. 
N. E. 20 miles, and thence gradually curving to the 
east joins the Hudson, below Jessup's Falls. The 
united stream, now a considerable river, flows a lit- 
tle E. of S, 15 miles, is again precipitated over a 
ledge of rocks, called the Great Falls; bends to 
nerth-east 20 miles, is once more borne over ano- 
ther stratum, and form.s Glenn's Falls. 

It is at the latter falls, that the Hudson enters 
that most peculiar valley, perhaps in the world, and 
which has be^n noticed in Chapter IL— 'p. 80. 8 L 



136 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Of this interesting vale, the highest elevation'above 
tide water is the plain between Glenn's Falls and 
Wood creek, a small confluent of Lake Champlain 
entering at White Hall. This plain, only 140 feet 
above tide level, is the lowest summit level between 
the surface of the Atlantic and that of the St. Law- 
rence basin. Advancing northward beyond the Wood 
creek level, by a descent of 52| feet, we are brought 
to the verge of Lake Champlain. The mind is with 
difficulty, even by aid of mathematical demonstration, 
led to believe that this expansive sheet of water is 
only 87| feet above the surface of the Atlantic 
ocean : surrounded by the most imposing mountain 
scenery, the traveller on the shore of Lake Cham- 
plain, seems in imagination raised to Alpine heights, 
and feels unwilling to acknowledge, even to his own 
mind, that less than one hundred feet lockage along 
the Chambly and St. Lawrence, would bring him 
down to the swell of the ocean. 

There is but one more pass known on the earth 
having a specific resemblance to that of Hudson 
and Lake Champlain. Scotland is divided into two 
unequal sections, by what is well expressed in that 
country by the term Glen, signifying a narrow and 
deep vale between high and steep hills or moun- 
tains. The Scottish glen declines a little towards 
the meridians from north-east and south-west, ex- 
tending from the Atlantic ocean into the German 
sea, about 120 miles ; having no summit above 70 
feet, though bounded by high and craggy mountains. 

In one respect these two vales excite astonish- 
ment; in their extent they deviate so little from a 
direct line as to almost appear the effects of large 
masses of solid matter having been impelled with 
prodigious velocity over the earth's surface. In 
both, the lakes as well as the rivers obey the gene- 
ral direction; and in the Scottish glen, the Murray 
frith, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, Loch Lochi, Logh Eil, 
and the frith or Loch Linhe, supply the same ofRce 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIE^V. 187 

performed in North America by Hudson river. 
Wood creek, Lake Champlain, and Chambly river. 
Both passes have been recently made navigable; 
that in North America by the Champlain canal, and 
that in Scotland by the Caledonian canal. Perhaps 
no two facts in history more strongly mark the pro- 
gressive advance, not alone of improvements in 
means of transportation, but in an infinitely more 
important subject, the human mind. But we must 
resume our survey. 

Falling over Glenn's Falls, the Hudson turns to a 
course a little west of south, which it maintains with 
slight deviation 186 miles to the Atlantic ocean at 
Sandy Hook. Thirty-five in a direct line, but 43 
following the river, and by a fall of 104 feet, the vo- 
lume flows from Glenn's Falls, to the tide level at 
the junction of the Hudson and Mohawk. Below 
tide water, though the character of a river is im- 
perceptibly changed to that of a bay, the mean 
breadth would not amount to one mile. In all its 
length above the island on v/hich Ncav York stands, 
it is bordered by a very rapid acclivity. This ac- 
clivity is in many places precipitous mountain mass- 
es, but in some other places more gentle. Fev/ rivers 
of the world afford a more rapidly varying suit of 
landsca.pes. Leaving the city of New York, the 
channel appears as an interminable vista, lined on 
the v/estern shore by appalling walls of primitive 
rocks; on the other a highly cultivated country 
sweeps by a bold acclivity from the river brink. 
These contrasts continue to the Highlands, where 
enormous mountain peaks rise at once on both sides 
to an elevation of 1200 or 1500 feet. The channel 
seems to have been rifted by some force too over- 
whelming to admit pleasing contemplation. We 
feel that when such chasms were burst, the earth 
itself must have trembled to its centre. This is a 
pass that few can traverse without sensations of deep 
interest. It is the only instance known, except that 
m2 



1 38 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of the St. Lawrence, of the ocean tides passing 
through a primitive mountain chain, and carrying 
depth for the largest vessels. Ascending through 
the Highlands past West Point, a new world seems 
to open; the banks remain bold, rocky, and often 
precipitous, though not mountainous; the farm- 
houses and villages seem to hang upon the cliffs, or 
to rise by stages from the water edge. In a fcAV 
places bottoms occur, but they are rare and limited 
in extent. In brief, if performed in open day, a 
voyage along the Hudson is one of the most desira- 
ble in the United States; but generally, in a passage 
by a steamboat, one or other extremity is made in 
the night, and of course unseen by the passengers. 

Flowing in a deep chasm, the Hudson is seldom 
seen, and in no place to advantage, from the roads 
along either bank. The adjacent country rises ab- 
ruptly to upwards of two hundred feet, and thence 
sweeps backward to the mountain chains in such 
manner, that the traveller would seldom suspect 
from the ordinary appearances that a large river 
covered with vessels flowed in the vicinity. This is 
the case in some of the villages, particularly Pough- 
keepsie and Rhinebeck. Peekskill, Newburg, Hud- 
son, and Albany, rise by stages from the river. 
West Point stands on a high though confined plain. 
Troy is the only town on this river which has been 
built on an alluvial bottom. Following the Hudson 
proper, above the entrance of the Mohawk, the fea- 
tures of the united stream are generally preserved; 
but along the latter a new character of scenery pre- 
vails. Above the Cahoes Falls secondary rock forms 
the substratum, precipices in a few places occur, 
though of no great elevation; at Schenectady, Her- 
kimer, Utica, and Rome, extensive flats spread be- 
tween the hills. The Herkimer flats above the 
Little Falls have all the appearance of having once 
formed the bottom of a lake. In general, however, 
the banks rise by gentle ascent, giving a soft and 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 139 

pleasing, rather than romantic air to the land- 
scape. At the Little Falls the scenery is wild 
and broken, and above the A'-illage, strongly con- 
trasted with the expansive alluvial bottoms of Her- 
kimer. Here are incontestible monuments of a 
change of height in the ledge which crosses the 
river. The action of the water on the rocks is visi- , 
ble 30 or 40 feet above the present level of the 
stream. Such an elevation would inundate the val- 
ley of the river to Rome; and every indication of 
the intermediate space exhibits traces of not very 
ancient submersion; and as the surface became more 
and more exposed as the barrier wore lower, exten- 
sive marshes must have existed between the periods 
of actual submersion and desiccation of the soil. 

As a navigable channel, that of the Mohawk is of 
invaluable importance. The little elevation of its 
summit level afforded an easy execution of a canal 
along its banks, which facility was again enhanced 
by the nature of the banks themselves, and still 
more by a contiguous country of exuberant fertility. 

In respect to the mountain valleys, the Hudson 
basin is divided into three sub-basins. The higher 
-and most extensive above the Catsbergs; the mid- 
dle between the Catsbergs and the Highlands, and 
the lower south from the Highlands. 

The upper or northern basin includes an irregu- 
larly limited space, with a base of 140 miles from 
the sources of the Ancram and Claverack creeks, 
to those of the Mohawk, and perpendicular of 130, 
with an area of 9000 square miles. The relative 
elevation, is in an inverse ratio to the distance from 
the ocean. The southern limit of the basin west 
from the Hudson, the Catsbergs, rise in Windham 
Green county to near 4000 feet. The Round Top is 
3804, and the High Peak 3718 feet above the tide 
level of the Hudson, about 18 miles distant. This 
is the highest mountain elevation, excepting perhaps 
the Peaks of Otter, of the Appa.lachian system 



140 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

south-west from the Hudson, The small river 
Schoharie rises in the Catsbergs, and in their most 
elevated valleys, flows first north-west but turns to 
northward, and enters the Mohawk, 42 miles by the 
windings of the latter above its mouth. The Scho- 
harie in a course of only 60 miles falls upwards of 
3000 feet, and enters its recipient 286 feet above 
tide level. The extreme north-western sources ot 
the Mohawk are perhaps about 1000 feet above tide 
level, consequently the fountains of the Schoharie 
are 2500 feet above those of the Mohawk, 

The continuation of the Catsbergs, after they pass 
the Mohawk at the Little Falls, are known in Her- 
kimer, Montgomery, and Hamilton counties as the 
Sacondago chain. This chain, in Hamilton, forms a 
nucleus from which the rivers flow like radii from 
a common centre, but its elevation has never been 
ascertained with precision. Standing on the heights 
between Ballston Spa, and Schenectady, where the 
Catsbergs, distant 45 miles, the Green Mountain 
chain of Massachusetts and Vermont, distant 40 
miles, and the Sacondago, distant 40 miles, are all 
distinctly seen, and comparing each with the others, 
I should be led to give an elevation of at least from 
1200 to 1500 feet to the latter chain. If the pre- 
ceding estimate is correct, the Hudson flows from a 
table land of upwards of 1000 feet elevation. 

On the eastern side of the Hudson, again the 
Green Mountain chain of Vermont, Massachusetts, 
and even Connecticut, rises as an immense buttress 
from which the branches of the Connecticut river 
and Housatonick are poured with great rapidity* 
Into the superior basin of the Hudson are discliarg- 
ed from the Green Mountains westward, the small 
but impetuous streams of Batten Kill, Hoosack, 
Kinderhook, and Claverack. The longest of these 
creeks, the Hoosack, has a comparative course of 
about 30 miles; but the mean slope of the basin, 
from the table land on which the Green Mountains 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 141 

Stand, does not amount to 20 miles in width. The 
table land is at least 1000 feet above tide level, 
therefore this narrow slope falls that depression in 
20 miles, or in 105,600 feet. 

The preceding elements will enable the reader to 
conceive the general features of this singular region. 
If we turn our attention to a map of New York, and 
take the head of tide water in Hudson river or bay- 
as a point of observation, we behold a deep chasm 
into which are poured numerous rivers of greater or 
less magnitude, and of these radiating streams the 
one coming from the greatest distance inland flow- 
ing from the least elevated table land. 

As respects geographic position, this superior ba- 
sin extends from N. lat. 42° 08' to N. lat. 44° 08', 
and in long, from W. C. from 1° 30' to 4° E. It 
will, however, be at once perceived, that in a region 
where relative height is so peculiarly distributed, 
that lines of latitude are only one set of elements in 
forming a theory of temperature, we might ex- 
pect to find rapid transitions in the seasons, on very 
limited change of place, and such is the case. I 
have been in Albany with every appearance of open- 
ing spring, whilst snow and ice were abundant with- 
in 20 miles in almost any direction. The difference 
of temperature between New York and Albany is 
also much greater than could be calculated from not 
quite two degrees of latitude upon an equal level. 
The great depression of the thermometer at Albany, 
arises, in part, from the surrounding mountains, but 
probably more from the deep vales of the Mohawk 
and Hudson opening vents for the winds of the north 
and north-west. 

The middle sub-basin of the Hudson, between 
the Catsbergs and the Highland mountains, lies in 
form of a parallelogram of about 40 by 50 miles, or 
2000 square miles. The features of this tract are 
in themselves strongly illustrative of the superficial 
structure of the Hudson and Delaware basins. If 



142 geogrIfhical view. 

we recur to the notice of the latter basin, we find 
that the Kittatinny chain leaves Pennsylvania and 
crosses Delaware river at the mouth of Broadhead's 
creek, and continuing a north-east course through 
New Jersey, enters Orange county. New York, at 
the great bend of Delaware, below the mouth of 
Nevisink river. This chain is continuous across 
Orange, Sullivan, and into Ulster county. One of 
its ramifications is known as Shawangunk, in the 
south-west part of Ulster. 

The Blue Ridge passes Delaware river at the 
mouth of the Lehigh below Easton, and is also per- 
petuated in, and over New Jersey. In the latter 
state, by the common negligence of map makers, the 
Blue Ridge is sometimes omitted, and if noticed, con- 
founded with the South-east mountain. The latter 
separates Bucks county from Lehigh and Northamp- 
ton, whilst the former, about 5 miles more north- 
westwardly, passes the southern part of Lehigh, 
turns the course of Lehigh river at Allentown, and 
as has been stated, enters New Jersey opposite 
Easton. In their prolongation towards the basin of 
the Hudson, the tAvo chains, generally humble in 
point of either mass or height, remain distinct, the 
Pohatcong and Musconetcong rivers draining the 
narrow intermediate valley upwards of 40 miles. 
Inflecting, as do the whole Appalachian system, to 
the north between the main volumes of Hudson and 
Delaware, the Blue Ridge is continuous to the former, 
and forms the Highlands. The South-east mountain 
also sustaining its identity and close range with the 
Blue Ridge, the two chains are apparently, but not 
really, blended in the Highlands. It has been almost 
universally overlooked, that West Point Military 
Academy was situated in a mountain valley between 
two chains. This interesthig fact was introduced 
in this place as a necessary feature in delineating the 
middle basin of the Hudson. 

It must be evident from the data given, that deep 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 143 

mountain vallies extend in an oblique direction be- 
tween the two basins of Delaware and Hudson; and 
also from the Hudson into the basin of St. Lawrence. ' 
This is so fai- the case, that if the highland strait 
below Newburg was closed only about 160 feet 
above the present tide level, the whole mass of wa- 
ter above would leave the basin by the route of 
Lake Champlain, and Chambly rivers; or if the lat- 
ter opening did not exist, a rise of 400 feet in the 
Hudson level would precipitate its discharge into 
the Delaware, along the vale of the Wall-Kill and 
Pawlin's creek. 

Pawlin's creek rises in Sussex county, New Jer- 
sey, and flowing south-west, along, or near, and 
parallel to the Kittatinny chain, enters Delaware 
river about 4 miles below Delaware Water Gap, 
after a course of 25 miles. The Wall-Kill heads 
also in Sussex county. New Jersey, interlocking 
sources with Musconetcong and Pawlin's creek, but, 
flowing in an opposite direction, follows the north- 
eastern range of the mountain chains 65 miles^ and 
falls into the Hudson at Eddyville near Kingston, 
The course and features of this latter stream are 
real phenomena. Influenced as it evidently is, by 
the mountain structure of the region over which it 
flows, the Wall-Kill valley has its inclination direct- 
ly in an opposite course to either of the much great- 
er rivers in its vicinity. It is not 30 miles from the 
head of tide water in the Passaic to the sources of 
the Wall-Kill, whilst the influx of the latter with 
the Hudson is upwards of 80 miles above the city of 
New York. 

The character of country drained by the Wall- 
Kill is still more a subject of interesting investiga- 
tion, than even its anomalous course. In Sussex 
county, of New Jersey, and Orange county, of New 
York, the upper part of the valley of this stream has 
all the aspect of an inundated estuary, and is with 
propriety called the drowned lands, From 35 to 



144 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

40 miles in length, with from 5 to 7 miles wide^ this 
tract is demonstrably the remains of a lake yet but 
partially desiccated; it is in most places as flat and 
marshy as the shores of any part of Louisiana, and 
the eye involuntarily seeks at every step the open 
ocean. To the mind of the geographer it suggests 
the once general aspect of the Appalachian vallies. 
The numerous gaps without existing streams, and 
other passes where rivers continue to flow, with a 
combination of relics, attest the former existence of 
extensive lakes, which the abrasion of flowing water 
has drained. In the very slow progress of drainage, 
flat swamps would of course succeed to actual sub- 
mersion.* The " Drowned Lands" are not, how- 
ever, altogether reduced to the marshy state; 
some small lakes lie scattered over this region, 
which are perennially supplied with water. It is in 
reality on a small scale what, in early and remote 
ages, was much of the present most productive soil 
of the United States. 

At the risk of being thought minute beyond ne- 
cessity, I cannot neglect to notice Esopus creek, 
another small confluent of the middle Hudson basin. 
The Esopus rises in the eastern spurs of the Cats- 
bergs, in the southern part of Greene and northern 
of Ulster county. Flowing in a very direct north- 
east course 25 miles, until within four miles from 
the Wall-Kill at the mouth of Rendout creek, it 
thence winds abruptly to north of north-east, and 
flows upwards of twenty miles, almost parallel to" 
the Hudson, before it enters that recipient at Sau- 
gerties. For several miles on each side of Kingston 
or Esopus, the Wall-Kill and Esopus run parallel 
at about three miles distance from each other, and 
for the last ten miles of its course above Kingston, 
the peninsula between it and the Hudson is in no one 
place three miles wide. 

* See Mohawk Valley. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 145 

On the eastern side of the Hudson, the slope of 
thj middle basin is more confined in its width than 
the western. The continuation of the Blue Ridge 
from the Hudson above West Point, inclines north- 
east along the southern side of Dutchess county 
about 20 miles, and thence turns to a little east of 
north, almost parallel to Hudson river, distant about 
20 miles; and which course and distance from the 
Hudson and Champlain basin, are preserved with 
very partial inflections into Lower Canada. 

From this chain, in the middle basin, flow into 
Hudson the small but rapid creeks, Jansen's creek, 
Wappinger's creek, and Fish-Kill, each supplying 
an immehse water power, from the perennial stea- 
diness of discharge and very great descent of vo- 
lume. 

Jansen's creek, more frequently designated An- 
cram creek, from the much and justly celebrated 
iron works on it, rises in the Blue Ridge, and flow- 
ing south-west over the south-east angle of Colum- 
bia fifteen miles, wdnds by a regular curve, in the 
northern part of Dutchess, to a north-west direction, 
re-enters Columbia, and joins the Hudson about 
three miles below the villaee and mouth of the Cats- 
kill. 

Wappinger's and Fishkill creeks rise within and 
have their entire course in Dutchess county, flowing 
from north-east to south- v/est; the latter entering 
Hudson directly opposite Newburg, and at the nor- 
thern foot of the Blue Ridge, called there, with great 
absurdity, Fishkill mountains. 

The melting of the ice, the advance of vegetation 
in spring, and the cutting of grass and grain, evince 
a remarkable difference of temperature above and 
below the Blue Ridge or Highlands. So great a 
change in so short a distance, arises, no doubt, from 
the hitervening mountains, as the general elevation 
of the banks remains nearly the same. In soil, cli- 
mate, diversity of surface, and advanced cultivation. 



146 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

the three counties of New-York — Orange, Ulster, 
and Dutchess — great part of each of which are com- 
prised in the middle valley of the Hudson, form one 
of the most desirable sections of the United States. 
The three counties contained in 1820 an aggregate 
population of 118,000, or 38 to the square mile ; 
though those parts near the Hudson were much 
more densely peopled. Lying in the direct route of 
one of the most frequented thoroughfares in Ame- 
rica, this part of New- York offers a rich reward to 
the traveller, and a most commodious residence to 
those whose means permit the enjoyment ofxultiva- 
ted retirement from the business, but who desire to 
retain the luxuries of society. 

The outer, lower, and southern basin of the Hud- 
son, has become a section of the earth demanding 
the highest attention from the geographer. The 
city of New-York, already ranking in the first list 
of emporia, is augmenting in population, wealth, 
and trade, with a rapidity and promised stability, 
of which the history of human improvement affords 
no other equal instance. 

By the estuary of the Hudson in this view is meant, 
that indenting of the coast of the Atlantic ocean, 
between the western end of Long Island and Sandy 
Hook in New- Jersey. This bay, known locally by 
the name of Amboy bay, receives the Hudson from 
the north, the Passaic from the north-west, and the 
Rariton from the west. Taken with this extent, 
the lower basin of the Hudson extends from the 
southern sources of the Millstone branch of Rariton, 
N. lat. 40° 13', to the mountains below West Point, 
N. Jat.41° 23', and in long, from the extreme western 
sourfces of the Rariton, 2° 02' E. to the eastern sour- 
ces of Croton river, 3° 48' E. W. C. The direction 
of this basin is from N. N. E. to S. S. W., about 
one hundred miles in length, with a mean width of 
thirty-five; area, 3500 square miles. 

For all moral and political purposes. Long Island 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 147 

is connected with the basin of the Hudson, and even 
physically the connection between the two tracts is 
so intimate as to warrant their union in a general 
view. 

So much has already been given on the Hudson 
itself, that little need be added ip this place. From 
the foot of the Highlands to the city of New- 
York is within a small fraction of 50 miles. At 
the point on which the lower part of the city is 
built, the Hudson dilates into a spacious basin of 
about 5 by 4 miles j into the north-east angle of which 
the East river or the western termination of Long 
Island sound enters, and gives to the city of New- 
York two great entrances from the ocean. Staten 
Island extends in an elliptic form from New-York 
basin to the mouth of the Rariton, with a length of 
12, and mean width of about 5 miles. Between the 
western end of Long Island and the extreme east- 
ern cape of Staten Island, the Hudson, by the strait 
called correctly the Narrows, terminates its course 
in Amboy or Rariton bay. 

At the head of Staten Island, and from the south- 
west angle of New- York basin, a strait of three miles 
extends into Newark bay, or more precisely, with 
Passaic bay. This latter sheet of water receives 
into its northern extremity Passaic and Hackensack 
rivers, and at its south-west angle contracts into a 
narrows trait designated Staten Island sound, or "The 
Kills," which, after a S. S. W. course of 9 miles^ 
forms one mouth with Rariton river into Rariton 
bay. Thus with Staten Island sound and the Hud- 
son, and with the two entrances from the Atlantic 
ocean. New- York harbour has four outlets. 

When treating on the general structure of the 
Appalachian system, I have observed that the 
primitive ledge, or, more accurately, the outer core 
of that system, ranged through New-Jersey from 
Trenton. This chain is distinct in Hunterdon, So- 
merset, Essex, and Bergen counties. In Essex it 



148 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

rises into considerable ridges, and is visible irom the 
most elevated part of Staten Island, and from Long 
Island between Brooklyn and Flatbush, distant 
about 15 miles from the City of New-York. In 
most places farther to the southward, the primitive 
strata ends in an abrupt ledge, but in the vicinity of 
New-York it extends open to the day, and under- 
lays the shores of the main land and islands around 
that city. In the basin v/e are now surveying, the 
range of the rock strata is in a perfect accordance 
with that of the section of the Appalachian system 
to the north-west from New-York. I have shown, 
when treating of the mountain systems generally, 
that the Appalachian, in Pennsylvania, New- York, 
and New-Jersey, curves to the north. The con- 
vexity of this curve is in the latter state and vicinity 
of the city of New- York. We now proceed to ex- 
amine in detail the minor sections of the lower, or 
sub-basin of the Hudson; a survey, from the relative 
importance and peculiar physical features of this 
region, and the commercial, moral, and political im- 
portance of New- York, necessarily minute. 

Amboy bay, or the real mouth of the Hudson, is, 
in respect to the Appalachian system, the extreme 
concavity of the great middle bay of the Atlantic 
slope. Into the south-west angle of this indenting, 
the small tide river the Rariton is poured from New 
Jersey. The Rariton is formed by three branches ; 
the Rariton proper. Millstone and Alamatcng rivers. 
The Rariton river rises in the south-east mountain, 
at N. lat. 40° 55', long. W. C. 2° 16' E., and in 
Morris county; assuming a south-west course of 25 
miles, passing into Hunterdon, and, curving to south- 
east 12 miles, enters Somerset; in the latter, in- 
flecting to an eastern course of 15 miles, in which 
the main stream is augmented from the north by the 
Alamatong, or Black river; and below their junc- 
tion the united water passing Somerville, three miles 
below, receives Millstone river from the south. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 140 

Millstone river rises in the western part of Mon- 
mouth county, N. lat. 40° 14', on the sea sand allu- 
vion, and by an anomalous course, which has no 
other similar case in the United States, flows north- 
west from the alluvial over the outer verge of the 
primitive strata. The Assanpink creek of Delaware, 
heads v/ith and flows parallel to Millstone, about 
twelve miles, until each encounters the primi- 
tive ledgej here the former is turned south-west in- 
to Delaware, which it enters at the head of tide wa- 
ter at Trenton : on the contrary, the Millstone, re- 
ceiving Stone creek from the west, crosses the outer 
primitive, and turning 15 miles nearly in a northern 
course, unites with the Rariton below Somervilie. 

After receiving the Millstone, Rariton flows north- 
east 3 miles, and is again augmented by Green branch 
at Boundbrook from Essex, and turns to south-east 
8 miles to New-Brunswick, where it meets the ocean 
tides, and thence continuing east 4 miles, quits the 
primitive and receives South river from the south, 
and continuing east 8 miles, is lost in Amboy bay. 

The small but interesting basin of the Rariton lies 
in form of a parallelogram, 45 miles in length from 
south-east to north-west, and 24 wide from south- 
west to north-east ; area, 1080 square miles. The 
ocean tides only penetrate to New-Brunswick, 12 
miles. Lying within the limits of two-thirds of a 
degree of latitude, the transition of climate between 
the northern and southern extremes is very striking. 
I travelled from Newtown in Sussex county in the 
latter part of September 1823, over the intermediate 
mountains, and down the valley of the Rariton. I 
left Newtown on the morning of the 28th, with a 
heavy white frost, the efi'ects of which were gradu- 
ally diminished advancing through the western part 
of Morris and northern of Hunterdon counties, and 
slightly visible between Somervilie and Trenton. 
Here relative elevation and more southern latitude 
combine to produce a melioration of temperature. 
»2 



150 GEOGRAPHICAL V1EW» 

It is, however, from the facility it oifers to artifi- 
ciiil inland navigation, that this basin demands most 
attention. Extending almost parallel to that reach 
of the Delaware from South-east mountain to Trenton, 
the sources of the Rariton rise within five miles of the 
former river, and continue not very variant from 
that proximity 35 miles. Within these limits two 
canal routes have been proposed ; one by the Rari- 
ton, and the other by the Assanpink and Millstone 
rivers. The singular departure of the latter from 
the otherwise universal course of the Atlantic rivers 
of the United States, as respects the primitive rocks, 
offers a unique opening from the Atlantic alluvion 
over the primitive formation. This subject will 
again be noticed under the head of New- Jersey. 

Naturally connected with that of Rariton, fol- 
lows the still less extensive sub-basin of Passaic. The 
small hkj of Newark, between Essex and Bergen 
counties, is the common estuary of Passaic and Hack- 
insack rivers. 

Passaic, entering their common recipient at New- 
ark, is formed by two branches, Pompton or Rama- 
po, and Passaic proper. The Ramapo rises in the 
south-east mountain in Orange county, New-York ; 
flowing thence nearly due south, about fifteen miles, 
passes the western angle of Rockland county, and 
enters New- Jersey. Thence turning to S. S. W. ten 
miles, receives from the north-west the Pequanack, 
and inflecting again to the south five miles, unites 
with the Passaic, between Morris and Bergen, and 
opposite Essex county. 

The Passaic rises in Somerset county, within the 
curve of Black river and Rariton, and flowing thence 
15 miles, forming for the greater part Of the dis- 
tance the boundary between Morris and Essex. 
Gradually winding to the north 10 miles, receives 
the Rockaway from the west. Though the extreme 
source of the Rockaway is in Sussex, it is n\ostly a 
stream, of Morris county, with a general course of 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 151 

about twenty miles. Below the union of its main 
branches, the Passaic winds by a circular curve 
five or six miles, and gaining an eastern course re- 
ceives the Pompton from the north. 

Thus far the Passaic drains a region, which, 
though not generally so considered, is in reality a 
mountain valley. It is, hov/ever, only in New Jer- 
sey and New York that the primitive ledge is sur- 
mounted by eminences assuming the mountain form. 
Passing the Delaware at Trenton, and advancing 
along the turnpike road to Nev^ Brunswick, a ridge 
is seen to the left, which, as has been noticed, is tra- 
versed by the Millstone river. The chain is again 
broken by the Rariton, between New Brunswick 
and Boundbrook, and becomes so elevated in Essex 
county as to be known as the Newark mountains. 
Once more this chain is broken by the Passaic, 
which passes it between Essex and Bergen counties, 
and stretching over the latter into New York is 
there again recognized in the Haverstraw mountains 
in Rockland county, and is the chain which passes 
the Hudson near Peekskill. 

" The general courses of the Pompton and Passaic, 
are directly towards each other, down the western 
side of the chain we have delineated, but when near 
actual confluence, the latter stream bends to the 
east by a regular curve, and receiving the former at 
the mountain foot, the aggregate stream, assuming a 
south-eastern course of two miles, enters the moun- 
tain chain, and again bends to north-east about two 
miles, falls over a ledge of rocks, and about four 
more is again precipitated 59 feet at Patterson. 
Below Patterson Falls the Passaic curves to a 
southern course of from 12 to 14 miles to its final 
egress into Newark bay. 

Into the north-east angle of the latter bay is also 
discharged the unimportant stream the Hackinsack, 
Viewed on a map, the small pond in Rockland county, 
which forms the superior source of the Hackinsack, 



152 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

appears almost united to the Hudson; on the contrary, 
however, they are separated by enormous walls of 
rock, which, rising at least 400 feet from the Hudson 
in broken precipices, falls more gradually towards 
the interior part of Rockland county. From its 
source to its efflux into Newark bay, the Hackin- 
sack, in a course of 30 miles a little west of south, 
receives few tributary streams, and though the tide 
flows up its channel about 20 miles, it is, in a navi- 
gable point of view, of little relative importance. 

If taken together, the united basins of the Rariton 
and Passaic are, with a small fraction of Hunterdon 
and Monmouth, nearly commensurate with Morris, 
Somerset, Essex, and Bergen counties, in New Jer- 
sey, and Rockland, in New York; about 80 miles 
from north to south, with a mean width of 30 miles; 
2400 square miles. 

On the eastern or left shore of the Hudson, and 
in its lower basin, though the face of the country 
remains bold and broken, the scenery is much less 
prominent than along and contiguous to the opposite 
shore. From Westchester county, the small river 
Croton enters the Hudson at Singsing, and through 
the Bronx is discharged into Long Island sound; 
from its position it must be included as a stream of 
the lower Hudson basin. The Bronx also in a very 
striking manner illustrates the peculiar structure of 
this basin. Rising in Westchester county, nearly 
east from the sources of the Hackinsack, those of 
the Bronx unite, and flowing a little west of south, al- 
most parallel to the Hudson, enter Long Island sound 
at the head of Flushing bay. If the Bronx, Hudson, 
Hackinsack and Passaic are viewed together on a 
map, they appear to flow in channels with so much 
conformity of course as to mock the effbrts of art; 
and what is still more remarkable, if the review is 
carried westward to the Delaware, the latter again 
appears to have received part of its channel from the 
same cause which operated to give features to the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 153 

estuary of the Hudson. But even thus far the 
moulding cause we have noticed does not appear to 
have been limited. The Susquehanna from Penns- 
boro' to the mouth of Juniata, has evidently been 
directed by similar agency, and over a large region 
we trace in the rivers of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, 
and New York, a regularity of course which could 
originate only from some single and powerful cause. 

The actual estuary of the Hudson, with its islands 
and minor rivers, appears to be based on primitive 
rock, and in fact the channels of the streams to be, 
though level with tides, similar in other respects to 
the most elevated mountain gaps; Viewed in this 
manner, Manhattan Island, Staten Island, and Long 
Island, are the most prominent elevations of this 
section of the Appalachian system. 

Manhattan, or New York island, is an irregular 
oblong of twelve, by about one and a half miles, or 
about 18 square m.iles. It is bounded west by the 
Hudson; north, by a small bend of Haerlem straits; 
east, by the residue of Haerlem straits, and that part 
of Long Island sound called East river; and south, 
by New York harbour. The base of this island is 
kneiss and primitive lime-stone, the range a little 
E. of N. E. No part of Manhattan island is much 
elevated, though the surface is waving and in part 
hilly; the outer edge in its natural state generally 
an alluvial marsh. The superstratum of the whole 
island a mass of sand and rounded pebble ; the lat- 
ter of all sizes, from that of sand to rolled masses of 
several tons weight. 

Staten island, extending in a similar direction 
with the preceding, rests also on primitive rock, 
and is bounded north, by Newark bay. New 
York bay, and their small connecting strait; and 
on the west, by Staten Island sound; on the south 
and south-east, by Amboy bay ; and on the east, 
by the Narrows, or by the real outlet of the Hud- 
son, Length nearly thirteen, mean breadth four, 



154 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

and area 52 square miles. This beautiful isl- 
and rises by a not very gentle acclivity to a consi- 
derable elevation. It is similar to Manhattan, bor- 
dered by a selvedge of more or less width of allu- 
vion. The surface is, however, highly diversified, 
and from some of its most elevated hills are opened, 
perhaps the most variegated landscapes on the At- 
lantic coast of the United States. It is a place in the 
vicinity of New York which no traveller ought to 
neglect. In a clear day, a single hour on some of 
the hills ofStaten island is worth a voyage of consi- 
derable length. Around it is an immense sweep of 
vision over New York, and its treble harbour ; Long 
Island with its swelling hills and numerous farms; 
the coast of New Jersey, in a circular sweep of 40 
miles from Paulus Hook to Nevisink hills and Sandy 
Hook light-house; and to complete the truly splen- 
did scene, the interminable Atlantic ocean opening 
between Sandy Hook and Long Island. This noble 
picture enlivened by all the activity of commerce, 
decorated by all that art can give to embellish fea- 
tures naturally glowing with all the most attractive 
lineaments of hill, dale, and diversified water sur- 
face. How many who visit New York, with all the 
means of gratification, and who travel for mere 
amusement, lose the invaluable pleasure of scanning 
the rich perspective from Staten Island? Thousands 
and tens of thousands. 

Long Island, though of different form, is in the 
principles of its structure, in every other respect, 
similar to Manhattan and Staten Islands. This very 
important island, extends geographicallv from N. 
lat. 40° 34', to N. lat. 41° 10', and in long, from W. 
C. 2° 58', to 5° 8' E. Length from the Narrows to 
Montauk Point, by actual calculation 120 statute 
miles; the mean range is N. 69° 44' E. The breadth 
from the Narrows to Peconic bay, varies from 10 to 
18 miles, in a distance of SO miles. Above, as is 
Visually expressed in reference to the city of New 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 155 

York, Long Island first widens about 30 miles,^and 
thence more slowly contracts in the next 50 miles 
to Peconic bay. The latter irregular sheet of wa- 
ter, and its continuance Gardiner's bay, separate 
the eastern or rather north-eastern part of Long 
Island, into two peninsulas, the longest and outer of 
which is terminated by Montauk Point. The inte- 
rior peninsula, bending out of the general course of 
the island, curves to N. N. E., ending in Oyster 
Point, but evidently continued in Plumb island, the 
two Gull islands, Fisher's island, and the point of 
the continent south-east from the mouth of Paucatuck 
river. 

A ridge of hills rising in some places to consider- 
able elevation, forms the northern side of Long 
Island, and might be correctly called its spine; and 
from which sweeps towards the Atlantic ocean an 
alluvial margin of from one to five or six miles wide. 
This extensive plain, with a gentle slope from the 
interior ridge, is followed by a range of narrow 
sounds, which extend from the southern outlet of the 
Narrows, to Sagg point, about 100 miles, and out- 
side of these sounds by a chain of long, and narrow, 
low sandy islands. When critically examined, it is al- 
most self evident that the intervening alluvial slope 
or plain has been formed by a similar process, v^hich 
is yet in progress with the islands, and that, in the 
lapse of time, the sounds will fill up, and, v/ith the 
islands, extend the alluvial border some miles far- 
ther into the Atlantic ocean. The shore of the 
main islands within the sounds is very irregular, but 
that of the sandy islets, exposed to the eternal rage 
of the Atlantic, stretches, in a finely drawn line, as 
if every asperity was removed by art. This is, how- 
ever, a trait in common with all sandy shores ex- 
posed to oceans, seas, or large lakes; and it is a fea- 
ture strongly exemplified along the Atlantic border 
of the United States. 



156 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Though no spot on I^ong Island affords the ex- 
pansive landscape which opens from the heights 
of Staten Island, the scenery of the former is yet 
highly attractive, and not so monotonous as from the 
simplicity of its structure might be supposed. The 
three principal roads, northern, middle, and southern, 
lead to a pleasing variety of hill, dale, and plain, and 
in many places present around the traveller the well 
cultivated fields of the island itself, and beyond, to 
the north, the bosom of the sound with the hills of 
Connecticut on the distant horizon. To the south, 
the beautiful sweep of the plain carries the eye to 
the never tiring Atlantic. In a tolerably extensive 
range over the United States, I have seen no part of 
equal extent more worthy of the traveller's time and 
expense. The middle road of Long Island, compos- 
ed of sand and gravel, has the firmness of the latter 
with the smoothness of the former material, and I 
have read and enjoyed the lanscapes from a car- 
riage without feeling much more sense of uneasy 
motion, than if in a boat on a tranquil sheet of wa- 
ter. 

In addition to its moderate elevation, the tempe- 
rature of Long Island is influenced, like that of all 
other islands, by the contiguous ocean, and sound, 
and is more mild and more moist than the adjacent 
continent. The difference is even greater than could 
be expected from the agents we have adduced. The 
winter seasons of Suffolk county, in Long Island, are 
indeed very different from those of central New Jer- 
sey or central Pennsylvania, with allowance made 
for difference of elevation and oceanic exposure. 
Something must be due to the respective compo- 
nents of soil. 

The remark may be here repeated, that Long 
Island sound partakes of the general character of 
other sounds, along the Atlantic coast of the United 
States. It is a bay with two outlets to the ocean. 
If considered as extending from the battery at New 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 157 

York to Fisher's Island, the length of the sound is 
almost to a mile the same as Long Island ; and 
though the position of the parts is in reverse or- 
der, the shape and area are very nearly similar. 

Long Island we have shewn to be 120 miles long, 
•wi^h a mean breadth of about nine, or area 1080 
square miles. The widest part of the island is 
from Lloyd's Neck on the sound, along the line be- 
tween King's and Queen's counties 20 miles ; the 
widest part of the sound is in a line a little east of 
south, from New Haven harbour to River head in 
Long Island, within less than one mile of the longer 
diameter of that island. Proceeding from New 
York, the sound by a very tortuous course of 16 
miles, varies from half a mile to two miles wide. 
Of this distance, from the battery to Haerlem river 
is N. N. E. eight miles, and thence again by a like 
distance nearly E. to Frog Point. The bend oppo- 
site Haerlem river is the noted pass called Hell- 
gate, or Hurl-gate. Above Frog Point, the sound, 
properly speaking, commences, and turns to N. E. 
18 miles between Lloyd's Neck and Stamford in 
Connecticut. Thus far the shores are rugged and 
the channel rocky, and much interrupted by small 
islets, and projecting points; but beyond Lloyd's 
Neck it opens into a noble elliptical expanse of wa- 
ter, from 8 to 20 miles wide, and with depth suffi- 
cient for the largest vessels of commerce or war. 
This splendid bay presents along its northern shore 
a continued picture of gradually rising hills, bold 
promontories, and commodious havens. Beside ma- 
ny of lesser note, it receives from Connecticut, the 
rivers Hous^satonick, Wallingford, Connecticut, 
Thames, and Paucatuck. The deeply hidented 
shores are decorated by the towns of Greenwich, 
Stamford, Norwalk, Fairiield, Bridgeport, Strat- 
ford, Milford, New Haven, Brandford, Guildford, 
Killiugworth, Saybrook, New London^ and Stoning- 
ton. 



158 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

It is when leaving New York, and traversing the 
variegated promontories of West Chester county, 
and of Connecticut, that the traveller feels the strong 
contrast with the monotonous sea border, south-west 
from the Hudson basin. Advancing up the sound of 
Long Island the eye perceives at every step that a 
new region is entered, and the imagination is rous- 
ed by landscapes becoming richer, bolder, and more 
varied, at every inflection of the road. 

It would be no very violent stretch of theory, to 
consider the rivers entering the northern side of 
Long Island sound, as forming part of Hudson basin; 
but in order to preserve perspicuity, I shall survey 
each individually. 

With some small intervening creeks, and at a dis- 
tance of about 55 miles from New York, Houssato- 
nick river enters Long Island sound. It has already 
been shewn, that between the Delaware and Hud- 
son basins, the Appalachian system by a circular 
curve, declined from a north-eastern to a northern 
direction. A natural consequence of such a curve 
in a system containing several chains, must be to 
give a more and more extended sweep to those on 
the convex side of the circuit. W^e have shewn, that 
the Kittatinny chain was continued in the Catsbergs; 
that the Blue Ridge was continuous over New Jer- 
sey, and again in New York extended to, and was 
broken by the Hudson, below Newburgj and that 
the south-east mountain of Virginia, and Pennsylva- 
nia, was also distinct over New Jersey and New 
York to the Hudson, which it crossed below West 
Point. It is one of the many instances of the singu- 
lar inattention of map compilers to the mountain 
chains, that the two chains which traverse Hud- 
son below Newburg have been confounded, or the 
exterior chain altogether omitted; and yet it is the 
continuation of this neglected south-east mountain 
which forms the great separating spine between the 
Hudson and Connecticut basins. The south-east 
mountain after leaving the Hudson, continues N. E. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 159 

about 30 miles, and gradually complying with the 
general bend of the system, leaves New York, and 
in the north-west angle of Connecticut, inclines to a 
course a little E. of N., which is perpetuated with 
slight inflections into Lower Canada. 

In the valley between the two chains we have 
been designating, and interlocking sources with Hoo- 
sack and Kinderhook branches of the Hudson, and 
with Westfield branch of Connecticut, rises, in Berk- 
shire county, Massachusetts, the Houssatonick, 
With one abrupt bend of 5 miles to the west near 
Stockbridge, the Houssatonick flows 70 miles 
down the mountain valley in which it rises; 40 in 
Berkshire county of Massachusetts, and 30 in Litch- 
field county of Connecticut. Turning to south-east, 
it breaks through the south-east mountain, crosses 
the south-west angle of Litchfield, and again sepa- 
rating New Haven and Fairfield counties, continues 
south-east 35 miles to the influx from the north of 
its only large tributary, the Naugatuck. The latter 
is a fine little stream of 40 miles in length, rising in 
Litchfield, and entering its recipient in New Haven 
county. Below its reception of the Naugatuck, the 
Houssatonic resumes a course of a little W. of S. 10 
miles, enters Long Island sound below Stratford, af- 
ter an entire comparative course of 115 miles. 

The very confined, but as it has New Haven har- 
bour for its estuary, the important basin of Wal- 
lingford, is naturally connected with that of Houssa- 
tonick only from proximity, as, though within 7 
miles from New Haven, two chains of mountains se- 
parate them from each other. These minor chains 
rise in the immediate vicinity of New Haven, and 
the western stretching northwardly, either merges 
into the Hoosack chain or into the hills of Hamden 
county, Massachusetts; whilst the eastern, similar 
to the New England chains generally, ranges a little 
E. of N. over New Haven and Hartford counties, in 
Connecticut; and as laid down in our maps, termi- 



160 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

nates at Westfield river, in Hamden county, Mas- 
sachusetts. This eastern chain, speaking- relative- 
ly with the preceding, is, however, though broken 
in our maps, continuous in nature, and rises near 
Hadley and Northampton, in Hampshire, and near 
Greenfield, in Franklin counties, to considerable 
mountain masses. Leaving Massachusetts, this 
chain inclines more eastwardly, and leaves Connecti- 
cut river, as shall be more particularly noticed in 
the sequel. 

Out of the southern vallies of these two chains, 
the fountains of Quinipaug or Wallingford are de- 
rived, which, after a short course of 30 miles, unite 
their streams, and opening into a fine bay, of 5 miles, 
affords a beautiful and convenient port to New Ha- 
ven. On the roads from Hew Haven to Hartford 
or Middletown, the traveller will find in the valley 
of the Wallingford a full compensation for the brev- 
ity of its extent. Here is, in a small compass, one 
of the best cultivated and naturally variegated 
tracts in the United States. The site of New Ha- 
ven, an alluvial plain, is quickly followed by all the 
strong contrasted features of mountain and valley. 

There are few, if any other streams of the Atlan- 
tic border of the United States, where relative level 
differs more comparatively with the length of its 
course than does the volume of the Houssatonick. 
The table land of Berkshire county, Massachusetts, 
must exceed 1000 feet elevation above the ocean 
level. This relative height produces a severity and 
continuance of winter in the higher valley of the 
Houssatonick, which is unknown on Hudson river, 
near Hudson city, or in the vicinity of Boston, though 
on the same parallel of latitude. That fine mountain 
valley drained by the sources of the Hoosack and 
Houssatonick, and occupied by Berkshire county, is 
amongst tlie most picturesque and fertile of the Al- 
l)ine tracts of tlic United States. In its advance to- 
wards its recipient, the Houssatonick flows through 



GEOGRAPHIPAL YIRW. 161 

a region much more rugged than that around its 
sources. Litchfield county, of Connecticut, presents 
a congeries of mountain ridges, with rich and beau- 
tiful intervening vales, and though less broken near 
its efflux into the sound, the whole basin of this im- 
petuous stream affords an interesting series of 
strongly contrasted landscapes. 

The progress of our survey has now brought us 
to the long and truly interesting basin of Connecti- 
cut. Its remote sources rise at N. lat. 45** 20', and 
in long. W. C. 5° 30' E. Its entrance into the sound 
is at N. lat. 41° 18', long. W. C. 4° 40' E. By ac- 
tual calculation, its entire course is from its source 
to efflux, S. 12P 18' W. 239^ geographical and 276| 
English miles. Measured by steps of 50 miles along 
its valley, it falls a small fraction short of 300 miles. 
Above the mouth of the Passampsick, the basin is 
about 90 by 30 miles, but below the latter confluent 
widens to about 40 miles, which remains nearly its 
mean breadth to Long Island sound, 210 miles. 
From these elements, the Connecticut basin, above 
Passampsic, has an area of 900 square miles, and 
below, 8400; having an aggregate superficies of 9300 
square miles. 

As far as our maps can be depended on, the Con- 
necticut has interlocking sources with the higher 
branches of Androscoggin, Kennebec, Chaudiere, 
and St. Francis rivers. Flowing about 50 miles a 
little W. of S., to Lancaster, in Coos county, New- 
Hampshire, it turns to south-west 25 miles to its 
passage through one of the Appalachian ridges, re- 
ceives the Passampsick from the north, and is pre- 
cipitated over Barnet falls. 

Though much smaller and more contracted in its 
length of course, the Passampsick, rises in and 
drains the continuation of the great basin of the Con- 
necticut, giving to the larger streams, in a physical 
point of view, the appearance of a branch. The 
Passampsick rises in and drains Caledonia county, 
o 2 



162 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Vermont, heading with La Moelle river flowing 
into Lake Champlain, and with some confluents of 
Connecticut river, and Lake Memphramagog ; ge- 
neral course a little W. of S. 30 miles. 

Below the Passampsick, the Connecticut river 
turns to a little W. of S., which course it maintains 
about 140 miles, where it is turned to south-east by a 
mountain ridge, and in the south-western part of Che- 
shire county. New Hampshire, and the south-east- 
ern of Windham county, Vermont, receives the 
Ashuelot from the former. Five miles below the in- 
flux of the Ashuelot, the Connecticut, having assum- 
ed a southern course, enters Massachusetts, and 10 
miles farther receives Miller's river from the east. 
Below the entrance of Miller's river, the Connecti- 
cut abruptly bends to the west, five miles to Green- 
field, and again assuming a southern course three 
miles below the latter village receives Deerfield 
river from the north-west. Though partially inflect- 
ed by the mountain chain in the vicinity of North- 
ampton and Hadley, the course of Connecticut from 
Greenfield in Massachusetts, to Middletown in Con- 
nedticut, is in a distance of 60 miles nearly due 
south. 

At Middletown this fine stream is once more in- 
flected by a mountain chain, and bends to south- 
east, in which direction it continues 25 miles to its 
influx into Long Island sound. The confluents of 
the Connecticut, though beautiful mountain streams, 
are comparatively humble as to magnitude or length 
of course. Of those already named, none exceed 40 
miles, and the Chickapee from the north-east, and 
Westfield from the north-west, entering in the 
southern part of Massachusetts, each falls short 
even of that length. Farmington river is the larg- 
est and most important branch of Connecticut. The 
former rises in Hampden county, Massachusetts, 
flows S. S. E. 15 miles, enters the south-east angle 
of Litcli field county, Connecticut, and continuing its 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 163 

primitive course 25 miles, passes one chain of moun- 
tains, enters Farmington valley, and is arrested by 
the Farmington chain at the village of Farmington. 
Here the stream turns by an acute angle, to a course 
of a little E. of N., which it pursues 12 miles along 
the mountain foot, and again abruptly bends to the 
east, pierces the mountain, and inflecting to south- 
east, enters Connecticut river below Windsor after 
a comparative course of 60 miles. 

An artificial chain of canal intercommunication has 
been projected along the Farmington, and in part 
recently effected. 

Below the Farmington, Connecticut receives no 
tributary worthy notice, and similar to the Hudson 
its general width is but little influenced by the tides, 
which flow above Hartford. It is a common mis- 
take to suppose the Hudson to be the only river of 
the Atlantic slope of the United States, which ad- 
mits the ocean tides over or into the primitive range. 
The Hudson is, in reality, the only channel in which 
the tides actually traverse the primitive, but the 
Connecticut also receives the ocean swell above 
Hartford, and of course, over the exterior primitive; 
as that formation constitutes the solid shores of Long 
Island sound. 

In the map, inserted in Maclure's Geology of the 
United States, an elliptical section of Old Red Sand- 
stone, is delineated as commencing at the head of 
New Haven harbour, and lying in a position from 
S. S. W. by S. to N. N. E. by E., and extending up 
Connecticut basin to the northern boundary of Mas- 
sachusetts, and with the primitive granite formation 
on each side. In this map Connecticut river is made 
to leave the Red Sandstone, and enter on the primi- 
tive by the mountain pass below Middletown. But on 
a geological map, drawn by the Rev. Edward Hitch- 
cock, and published in Silliman's Journal of Science, 
which represents the country from New Haven to 
Bellow's Falls, the intermediate space including 
the Connecticut river from its mouth to the termi- 



164 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

nation of the map, the red sand-stone is not even 
sketched as the prevailing rock. With little appa- 
rent regularity we have marked, on the latter map, 
primitive limestone, primitive greenstone, horn- 
blende-slate, mica-slate, Talcose-slate, chlorite- 
slate, sienite, argilite, limestone, verd antique, secon- 
dary-greenstone, coal formation, and alluvion ; and 
to border this mixture of formations, granite and 
gneiss. 

If the latter map is even an approach towards ac- 
curacy, it demonstrates how very little either the 
chains of mountains or rivers are influenced by that 
vague system of arrangement called formation. In 
reality, to an eye at all acquainted with surveying 
the earth's surface, the delineations on either map 
must be doubtful. To measure and. project with 
tolerable correctness, the complex formations on 
the latter noticed map, would demand an expendi- 
ture of time, talent, and money, which has never 
been made to collect such data from any section of 
the United States. There is a general approach in 
the Appalachian system of mountains to a regularity 
of arrangement ; but the component materials evince 
no such definite organization. 

In its ordinary features, the Connecticut has con- 
siderable resemblance to the Susquehanna. Flow- 
ing in a deep and in most places a narrow valley, bor- 
dered by mountains or very elevated hills, both ri- 
vers present along their margins extended alluvial 
flats. On the former river the alluvial tracts present 
some highly interesting traits. This species of soil 
commences above the mountain pass near Middle- 
town, and opposite that village spreads into a circu- 
lar plain, limited backwards from the river by the 
mountain chain of hornblende slate.* Five miles 
above Middletown the elevated formations reach 
the river on both banks, but again recede in about 
three miles, and another immense alluvial plahi 

* Hitchcock's map. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 165 

spreads along both banks, and, with unequal width, 
stretches upwards of forty miles, varying in width, 
from Wetherfieid and Glastonbury in Connecti- 
cut, to South Hadley in Massachusetts. At the 
latter place the Connecticut river is traversed by 
the Farmington chain,which approaching the stream 
in rock masses, interrupts the alluvion for about 
three miles. Here, if Hitchcock's map is correct, 
occurs a singular exemplification of the geological 
structure of Connecticut basin. That geologist 
traces a series of the secondary greenstone, with a 
short interruption in Wallingford and Meriden, from 
the vicinity of New Haven, and as forming the west- 
ern side of Farmington mountain, carries it over the 
Connecticut river between South Hadley and East 
Hampton. The eastern slope of the mountain is, 
according to Mr. Hitchcock, .composed of the coal 
formation series. 

It may be remembered that I have already no- 
ticed the very angular bend of Farmington river, in 
Farmington valley, and from Mr. Hitchcock's map, 
and no doubt- from the real face of nature, the appa- 
rent continuation of that stream would have been 
along the west foot of the mountain into Connecticut 
river, at the southern base of Mount Tom, carrying 
Westfield river with it ; but from local and not easily 
traced impediments, both streams pierce the moun- 
tain chain, and quit the valley which nature seems 
to have destined as their course, and enter their re- 
cipient, if the expression may be pardoned, by ano- 
malous'channels. In fact, if Farmington and West- 
field rivers had followed the mountain valley, and 
joined the Connecticut in East Hampton, they would 
have, with Manhan river, afforded a truly astonish- 
ing resemblance to the real relative courses of the 
Wallkill, Rendoutkill, and Esopus rivers in New 
York. I would strongly recommend those who may 
desire to possess a critical knowledge of the geogra- 
phy of the United States, to compare the minute 



166 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

features of the two regions I have noticed. A few 
moments thus applied will be most richly rewarded. 
Such scrutiny would lead to the discovery, that the 
alluvial tract on which New Haven has- been built, 
is only (if it is so) interrupted in Woodbridge, to the 
north of which town it again opens between the two 
mountain chains of New Haven county, extends along 
the Farmington, crosses Westfield river, and reaches 
Connecticut at the mouth of Manhan river in West 
Hampton. Narrowed and chequered by the Al- 
pine scenery of Northampton and Hadley, the allu- 
vial valley would be found continued up Connecticut 
river to Greenfield, and what might well excite sur- 
prise and interest, would be the fact that its north- 
ern termination, similar to its commencement, would 
be perceived separated by mountain masses from 
Connecticut river. It would appear evident from 
comparing the mountain and river vallies, that this 
great alluvial deposit of 90 miles in length lies in one 
of the former, and that neither its extent or range 
has been principally produced by the existing rivers, 
or at least by rivers flowing at their present level. 

We may close this part of our 'survey by observ- 
ing, that 1 might have correctly subdivided the Con- 
necticut basin into svib-basins in the same manner as 
I had done with that of the Hudson; but though the 
former basin would admit such subdivision as well 
as the latter, the lines of separation are not in each 
case equally obvious, nor in fact is the entire space 
drained by the Connecticut equally well delineated 
on our maps, as is that of the Hudson basin. It is 
true, however, that that part of Connecticut basin 
from Bellows Falls to the mountain pass below Mid- 
dletown, has a striking general resemblance to the 
central sub-basin of the Hudson, except in the single 
circumstance of extent In both, the ocean tides pass 
over the primitive into a secondary formation, and 
in both the movmtain and river vallies intersect witli 
an intricacy whicli demands close and long conti- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 167 

nued observation to clearly understand their respec- 
tive extent and position. 

We have seen that the basin of Connecticut is in 
great part based on primitive rock, and though pass- 
ing one small ridge of mountains near Middletown, 
it is nevertheless navigable for vessels drawing ten 
feet water, to the latter place, above the mountain 
pass, or 36 miles, following the windings of the 
stream from Long Island sound. Vessels of seven 
and a half feet ascend to Hartford, fifteen miles 
above Middletown. The latter place is at the head 
of sea navigation,, and near the head of the tides ; 
but, though considerably obstructed by falls, rapids, 
and shoals, the navigation of this river has been so 
much improved, by dams, locks, and short canals, 
as to admit boats of considerable tonnage to ascend 
to, and descend from, Haverhill, Coos county. New 
Hampshire, and even to and from the Fifteen Mile 
Falls above Haverhill, upwards of 250 miles, follow- 
ing the particular bends of the river above its mouth. 
This is very considerably the deepest ascending na- 
vigation on the Atlantic slope of the United States 
east from the Hudson. 

Though flowing in a general course without any 
great inflections, yet by its meanders, it is probable 
that the Connecticut would exceed four hundred 
miles. 

There remains one more point of comparison be- 
tween the Hudson and Connecticut basins which 
ought not to be omitted ; that is, the parallelism of 
the two streams. It is about sixty miles from the 
mouth of Onion river into Lake Cham plain, to Con- 
necticut river at the influx of Passampsick, and fol- 
lowing the two great vallies southward 180 miles, 
the relative distance does not vary more than ten or 
twelve miles; and the declination of each from the 
meridian is a small angle to N. E. and S. W. in ac- 
cordance with the range of the Appalachian system, 
eastward from the Delaware. Another feature in 



168 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

the physical geography of this part of the United 
States deserves notice. If we turn to a map of that 
part of the Atlantic coast from Buzzard's to Casco 
bay, with the exception of Capes Cod and Ann, the 
general range of the coast is nearly the same with 
that of Hudson and Connecticut rivers, and distant 
from the latter stream from eighty to one hundred 
miles. 

In respect to climate, the contrasts are strong on 
Connecticut basin, arising from rapid change of lati- 
tude and elevation. Though no part of the Appala- 
chian system either included within or rising conti- 
guous to Connecticut basin, is of great elevation, the 
general rise of the slope is considerable. The north- 
ern part of Coos county. New Hampshire, is, it is 
probable, more than 1200 feet above Long Island 
sound. The difference of latitude is within a small 
fraction of four degrees; and the difference of eleva- 
tion 1200 feet, equivalent to three degrees, would 
give an aggregate extreme of temperature of seven 
degrees, if reduced to ocean level. 

The scenery and improvements on this fine basin 
render it in a high degree worthy attention from the 
traveller and philosopher. The whole distance from 
the source to mouth affords a series of landscapes 
richly contrasted. Though less rugged than the 
physiognomy of Susquehanna, or perhaps that of 
the Hudson, there are few of those great objects of 
nature, river, mountain, cataract, or vallies, of all 
forms, but of which the Connecticut affords truly 
elegant specimens. But, whatever maybe said of na- 
tural scenery, its claims to me were ever only felt 
in connexion with the productions of human labour, 
and the endowments of the human mind. I have 
travelled over a pa;rt of the noble region, I am now 
faintly attempting to delineate, and have realized 
there, the mingled sensations produced by the splen- 
did form in which nature a]ipears, at once decked 
in physical and moral ornaments. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 169 

We have now passed over that part of the Atlan- 
tic slope on which distinct chains of the Appalachian 
system have been traced on our maps. Beyond the 
Connecticut basin, the mountains are drawn in 
groups, but for reasons already given, I am induced 
to doubt the existence of mountain groups in the 
United States, and, strictly speaking, I doubt the 
existence of such a phenomenon on earth. It has 
been shown, under the general view of the Appala- 
chian system, that in innumerable instances the core 
of the chains was perpetuated evidently under the 
earth as well as water, and that what is called a 
gap, is an elevated notch in the mountain, and that 
where rivers pass mountain chains, the openings are 
only gaps depressed below the stream. 

Upon these principles, combining the mechanism 
of the rivers of Rhode Island, Massachusetts, New 
Hampshire, and Maine, with that of those of Lower 
Canada and New Brunswick, at the risk of being 
thought too systematic, I shall endeavour to show 
the continuation of the Appalachian structure far 
beyond where the representation of that system is 
usually terminated. I anj, however, compelled to 
proceed on much less certain grounds than has been 
trodden over the more south-westerly basins, and 
defective theory may be substituted in place of 
facts; but if even an unfounded hypothesis leads to 
more careful research, and, consequently, to more 
correct discovery, the temerity of hazarding a pre- 
disposing conjecture may be overlooked or pardoned 
for its ultimate utility. 

The eastern part of Connecticut, and a small sec- 
tion of southern Massachusetts and western Rhode 
Island, are occupied by the two small but important 
basins of Thames and Paucatuck. 

The Thames is formed by two unequal branches, 
the Quinnebaug and Shetucket. The north-eastern 
branch of the Quinnebaug rises in Worcester county, 
Massachusetts, at N. lat. 42° 14', and long. W, C, 



170 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

5° 05' E., and flowing thence nearly due south 16 
miles, enters Windham county, Connecticut, within 
which, 6 miles farther, it reunites with the north- 
western arm from Hampden county, Massachusetts. 
Below their junction the united streams flow a little 
west of south, over Windham and into New London 
county 30 miles, to the influx of the Shetucket from 
the north-west. The latter rises nearly on the line 
between Hampden county, Massachusetts, and Tol- 
land county, Connecticut, and flowing 15 miles to 
the centre of the latter, turns to south-east 10 miles 
into Windham county, where it receives a large 
branch, the Willamantic, from the north, and pur- 
suing the latter course 12 miles farther, enters New 
London county and joins the Quinnebaug. The 
river now assuming the name of Thames, flows by 
a course a little west of south, 20 miles, into Long 
Island sound, at N. lat. 40° 29', long. W. C. 4° 55' E. 

The basin of Paucatuck deserves notice only as 
the stream forms part of the boundary between 
Connecticut and Rhode Island, and as containing the 
seaport of Stonington, on a small bay at its mouth, 
and as forming the utmost northeastern extension 
of Long Island sound. 

As a navigable channel the Thames ranks above 
the apparent size of the stream or extent drained. 
The tide ascends to the mouth of the Yantic, at 
Chelsea landing, the port of Norwich, 15 miles 
above the mouth. The Yantic, a small branch from 
the north-west, about 5 miles below the junction of 
Quinnebaug and Shetucket, gains importance from 
having the main body of Norwich upon its banks, 
and from being precipitated over an extensive fall 
at the head of tide water, between Norwich and 
Chelsea landing. 

Norwich, though a fine and prosperous village, 
or rather township, does not form, when taken with 
Chelsea landing, the main seaport on the Thames 
basin; that rank is due to New London, on the west- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 171 

ern or right bank, a little more than 3 miles from 
Long Island sound. The mouth of the Thames has 
one defect as a navigable entrance, it is deficient in 
width; and, therefore, in case of war easily block- 
aded, and in storms of difficult approach. 

The scenery on the Thames, though less bold 
than along the Connecticut, is yet varied and highly 
pleasing; particularly towards the head of tide 
water. In addition to the beautiful swelling environs 
of New Haven and Fort Griswold, those places 
afford to the traveller historical recollections at 
once melancholy and consoling. 

With the Paucatuck our survey quits Long Island 
sound, and leads us into the interesting Narraganset 
bay. It has been made a question whether either 
the bay of Naples, the harbours of New York or 
Constantinople, or indeed any other bay of the 
world combines more varied or more attractive 
natural beauties than does the Narraganset. It 
opens, by three channels, from the Atlantic ocean, 
between Point Judith, on the west, and Seconet, on 
the east. Differing in width from 13 miles to less 
than 200 yards, at Providence, where it terminates. 
Chequered by Rhode Island, Connanicut, Pru- 
dence, and many smaller islands, and by shores 
rising by gentle acclivities, indented by bays and 
promontories, the Narraganset extends in a north- 
ern direction 30 miles. It is the estuary of Paw- 
tucket, Taunton, and Pautuxet rivers. 

The main stream which enters this bay, and 
mingling with it near its head, may be considered 
as its continuation, is Paw tucket. This river rises 
in the mountain tract on each side of Worcester, in 
Worcester county, Massachusetts, interlocking 
sources with Chickapee branch of Connecticut, 
with Nashua and Concord branches of Merrimac, 
. and with the Quinnebaug. The general course of 
the Pawtucket is to the south-east 35 miles; 20 in 
Massachusetts and 15 in Rhode Island. It is pre- 



172 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

cipit'cited over a ledge of primitive rock and meets 
the tide about 4 miles to the north-east from Provi- 
dence, and enters Narraganset bay, in the vicinity 
and below the harbour of that city. 

Taunton river rises, by numerous branches, in 
Norfolk, Plymouth, and Bristol counties, Massachu- 
setts. Uniting in the latter county between Dighton 
and Taunton, and assuming the name of the latter, 
flows by a general course south-west about 25 miles, 
opens into a small bay, which itself again opens, by 
two channels formed by the north-east cape of 
Rhode Island, into the Narraganset. The mouth 
of Taunton is a little within Massachusetts, but the 
bay into which it dilates is in Rhode Island, and lo- 
cally named Bristol bay, from the town of that name 
near its western outlet. In this stream the tide rises 
to Dighton, 8 miles above its mouth. 

Pautuxet is a small creek of about twenty miles 
general course, and rising in Providence and Kent 
counties, Rhode Island, flows easterly into the Nar- 
raganset, which it enters 6 miles below the city of 
Providence, at the flourishing village from which it 
has taken or to which it has given nam.e. 

It is their falls near their common recipient from 
which is derived to either of the confluents of Nar- 
raganset bay, a specific notice in our view; but with 
those falls the city of Providence has become a fo- 
cus of immense manufacturing establishments. 

Narraganset, as I have already noticed, has three 
outlets to the ocean, formed by the two islands Con- 
nanicut and Rhode Island with the projecting 
shores of the Continent. The two outer channels 
are shallow, but the middle entrance between the 
two islands has sufficient depth of water for vessels 
of the largest class, Newport, standing on a small 
bay of Rhode Island, and land-locked by Connani- 
cut, is one of the best harbours on the Atlantic coast 
of the United States. From Newport to Providence 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIKW. 173 

the channel gradually shallows, and at the latter 
city only light merchant vessels are admitted. 

The basin of Narraganset embraces an inclined 
plain, the superior verge of which reaches to within 
12 miles from the shove of Cape Cod bay and Bos- 
ton harbour, the heads of Taunton river leaving 
only a long narrow slip between their fountains and 
the Atlantic water. 

As a commercial entrance, the bay of Narragan- 
set possesses some appropriate advantages. Re- 
ceiving no large tributary river, the depth of water 
cannot be alFected rapidly by alluvial deposit, a de- 
terioration so common and so ruinous where havens 
are washed by large rivers. The peculiar local 
features of Newport harbour protect it also from 
the oceanic deposits, and give to that place a secu- 
rity of permanent navigable facility, which in the 
revolutions of physical geography and of relative 
political importance may be of the utmost conse- 
quence to the United States. The time may also 
arrive when the many natural beauties of Narra- 
ganset bay will meet from the traveller and philoso- 
pher that attention which they so deservedly claim. 

That part of the Atlantic slope included in the 
great central bay is closed to the north-east by 
Barnstable peninsula, and by Martha's vineyard 
and Nantucket islands. Buzzard's and Cape Cod 
bays approach within 5 miles of each other. The 
former is a deep triangular indenting, stretching 
north-east from Narraganset bay, bounded north- 
west by Bristol and Plymouth counties, and south- 
east by Elizabeth islands and the south-west projec- 
tion of Barnstable county. Buzzard's bay is entirely 
within Massachusetts; it receives no river or creek 
of consequence, but is very much indented by small 
bays on both shores, on one of which, at the mouth 
of Acushnet creek, stands the entrepot of this bay. 
New Bedford. 

p 2 



174 GEOGRAPHICAL Vl£W. 

From a line drawn from Seconet point to the 
southwestern of the Elizabeth islands, to its head. 
Buzzard's bay measures 35 miles, lessening in width 
from 10 to 1 mile. This is one of the natural channels 
from which a canal has been projected into Cape 
Cod bay, in order to complete a part of a chain of 
inland navigation along the Atlantic coast of the 
United States; but the shallowness of Buzzard's bay 
near its head, opposes a great impediment to such 
an enterprise. Vessels, however, of considerable 
draught ascend to New Bedford, 16 or 17 miles 
within the capes of Buzzard's bay. 

Including the two islands of Martha's Vineyard 
and Nantucket, the basin of Buzzard's bay stretches 
from south-east to north-west, about 60 miles, with 
a mean width of 25 miles. 



175 



CHAPTER VI. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE NORTH-EASTEEBf 
SECTION OF THE ATLANTIC SLOPE, FROM 
BARNSTABLE ISTHMUS TO THE MOUTH OF 
ST. LAWRENCE. 

If an attentive comparison is made between the 
conformation of the extremes of the central bay of 
the Atlantic slope of the United States, their strong 
resemblance becomes apparent. The long westerly- 
sweep of coast, which precedes, and the rapid bend 
to the northward, with the salient projection of Cape 
Hatteras, I have noticed. On each direction from 
Cape Cod, or more accurately Barnstable penin- 
sula, the Atlantic ocean extends with very similar 
inflexion from the meridian, as we have found from 
Cape Hatteras. This comparative estimate is not 
intended merely to include the Capes of Hatteras 
and Cod, but the general extension of the continent 
in their vicinity. The capes are simply terms to 
designate salient points. By reference to a former 
part of this view, page — , it will be found that the 
Atlantic coast, from the estuary of the Alatamaha to 
Cape Hatteras, is noticed as stretching almost ex- 
actly parallel to the adjacent part of the Appala- 
chian system; and to the northward of Cape Hatte- 
ras, similar to the rivers, the Atlantic is found to 
bend at nearly right angles to the mountain nucleus. 
In brief, throughout this survey, we have shewn 
that the courses of the ocean shores and of the rivers 
were decidedly influenced by the interior structure 
of the continent. These remarks are again fully ex- 
emplified in Cape Cod and the adjacent ocean bor- 
ders. 



176 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

That peninsula usually called Cape Cod, is a 
point of land stretching fronn the main continent of 
Massachusetts, a little north of east, 35 miles, vary- 
ing in width from 6 to 20 miles. Extending along 
aboutN.lat. 41° 40' to long. W. C. 7° 08' E. Turn- 
ing at very nearly a right angle, this peninsula again 
extends about 30 miles, with a mean width of from 
two to three miles. In all its curve of 65 miles, from 
its union with the continent at Sandwich, to its final 
termination by Cape Cod, the peninsula very gra- 
dually lessens in width. The superficies of this 
tract is generally sand, with a level surface, but the 
relative position, and geographic bearing of its parts, 
support the opinion, that the base is a section of that 
great whole so deeply marked on the Atlantic slope 
of the United States. 

In the progress of our survey from Cape Flori- 
da, we have followed the Appalachian system in its 
immense stretch from south-west to north-east ; we 
have traced it to where, in the basins of the Hudson 
and Delaware, it curves to the north, and we are 
now to find that system inclining to the west of 
north. Passing Barnstable peninsula, and entering 
on an examination of the great north-eastern bay of 
the United States, and of the adjacent continent, a 
change of relative bearing of the coast and rivers is 
at once perceptible. Although not so delineated on 
our maps, I must risk the conjecture that the ranges 
of mountain chains, north-east from the basin of 
Connecticut, lie inclining from the meridians by a 
small angle to the west of north, and east of south, 
or else they reassume their original position south- 
Avest from Pennsylvania. The courses of the rivers, 
including that of the St. Lawrence, sustain such 
hypothesis. But the subject will be better illustra- 
ted in the sequel. 

Enclosed by the curve of Barnstable peninsula, 
the extension of Cape Ann, and the intervening 
coast of Massachusetts, spreads a gulf or bay in the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. \7t 

form of a parallelogram of 55 miles in length, from 
S. S. E.to N. N. W., and 25 miles in width. Taken 
in its utmost extent, this sheet of water has been 
appropriately called the bay of Massachusetts, and 
in its indentings, besides others of less note, has the 
fine harbours of Plymouth, Boston, and Salem. 
From Cape Cod to Cape Ann, it is open 44 miles to 
the Atlantic. It is not a little curious to observe 
how greatly the minute points along the coast of 
Massachusetts bay develope the physical structure 
of that part of the earth. Plymouth Point, and 
Gurnet Point, which form Plymouth Harbour; Point 
Alderton and Point Shirley, which form the ex- 
tremes of Boston bay; and Great Nahant beach, 
extend with a mutual parallelism, which approaches 
the regularity of artificial arrangement; and what 
enhances the interest of such phenomena, is the cir- 
cumstance, that this parallelism is in accordance 
with the longitudinal extension of Massachusetts 
bay itself, and is either with, or very nearly at right 
angles to the courses of the rivers. We may justly 
conclude that the northern arm of Barnstable penin- 
sula, and Gurnet, Plymouth, Alderton, Shirley, and 
Nahant points are formed by sand or giest resting 
upon rocks in situ, and that these rocks form minor 
parts of that vast system of physical arrangement, 
of which the Appalachian mass is the mighty nu- 
cleus. 

From the structure of the interior country, Mas- 
sachusetts bay receives no river of thirty miles com- 
parative course, and but one, Charles river, which 
derives its sources above twelve miles inland. A 
narrow inclined plain curves round the bay from 
Cape Cod to Cape Ann, 150 miles, and diff'ering in 
width from half a mile to 15 miles, though the 
mean width doe^not exceed, if it amounts to 8 
miles; area 1200 square miles. 

From some cause, or perhaps from a combination 
of causes, Barnstable peninsula forms a remarkable 



173 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

point of change in the elevation of the Atlantic tides, 
rroceeding south-west from that peninsula, the 
tides become more and more moderate, until within 
Cuba straits the ocean swell does not exceed a 
mean of three feet; but, on the contrary, north-east 
from Cape Cod, or more correctly, from the southern 
part of Massachusetts bay, a sudden and excessive 
augmentation takes place. In Buzzard's bay the 
tide does not at a' mean exceed four and a half feet, 
whilst at a distance of 7 miles, over Sandwich neck, 
the swell amounts to 17 or 18 feet, and goes on in- 
creasing north-eastward] y along the shores of North- 
east bay, until, in its utmost extension, the Bay of 
Fundy, the ocean pours upon the coast with the 
enormous weight of from 50 to 60 feet. These very 
high tides produce effects which give to the natural 
history of this bay of the Atlantic, peculiar features. 
Without a knowledge of this circumstance in the 
motion and quantity of the tides, it would excite 
astonishment or incredulity, to be informed that the 
harbours of Plymouth, Boston, Salem, Newburyport, 
Portsmouth, Portland, and still more, the harbours 
farther north-east, were less obstructed with ice in 
winter, than even the port of New York. But the 
difficulty is at once solved by an attention to the 
natural effects of the ebb and flov/ of such accumu- 
lated masses of water, and particularly in the ebb, 
which bears with irresistible impetuosity into the 
ocean, the fragments of ice formed by the previous 
flow. 

The obvious consequence of the preceding phe- 
nomena is, that the Atlantic is more and longer navi- 
gable, upon an equal descent of coast, to the north- 
east, than to the south-west of Barnstable peninsula; 
but from the much more rapid acclivity of the con- 
tinent in the former, than in the letter section of the 
United States, the advantage of superior elevation 
of tide water is fully, if not more than compensated. 
We have seen already that in Chesapeake bay, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIKW. 179 

Delaware bay, and Hudson, and in particular the 
latter channel, the tides, though of nnoderate 
height, penetrate deeply into the continent; but 
north-east from Barnstable peninsula, there is no tide 
channel of 60 miles depth from the open ocean. 

I have seen no satisfactory explanation of the 
cause of the great extremes of tide elevation on the 
Atlantic coast of the United States and New Bruns- 
wick, and would ask if the phenomenon is not ex- 
plicable from the physical features of the Gulf 
Stream ? In the notice of that ocean river in the 
first chapter of this Fieiv, it has been, I hope, de- 
monstrated, that its height above the contiguous 
ocean, and the intensity of its current, must decrease 
from the Bahama channel to about N. lat. 50°; and 
we may now lay down as a postulate that in pro- 
portion as the Gulf Stream depresses in height, and 
moderates in rapidity of flow, the oceanic swell 
■would meet with decreasing impediment in its west- 
erly course towards the American coast; and con- 
sequently the result, excessive tides to the north- 
east. The projection of Barnstable peninsula, which 
operates as an immense dike, serves as a demarca- 
tion, and in part produces the sudden revolution in 
the tide level which we have noticed. But to re- 
turn to our subject. 

So very rapid is the acclivity around Massachu^ 
.setts bay, that, with the increase of 9 or 10 feet to 
the tides, the ocean swell is every where arrested 
within three or four miles from the coast, except in 
the case of Charles river, in which the tide flows to 
Dedham. Here I may again repeat the observa- 
tion made when treating on Narraganset bay, that 
the harbours of Massachusetts bay possess a similar 
advantage in an exemption from alluvial deposit. 

The importance of a bay having on its shores 
Plymouth, Boston, and Salem, with numerous other 
harbours of less note, will warrant some amplifica- 
tion in this place. Being detached as we have seen 



180 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

from the interior country by the rapid inclination of 
its shores, the inhabitants on Massachusetts bay^ 
have long since turned their attention to the forma- 
tion of artificial channels, one of which, the Middle- 
sex canal, has been effected, though very imper- 
fectly constructed. This canal, 27 miles long, 
leaves the Merrimac river above its lower falls, and 
terminates at Charlestown, opposite Boston. The 
water in the canal is 30 feet wide at the surface, 20 
at the bottom, and three feet deep. Concord river 
crosses the line of the canal on the summit-level, 22 
miles from Charlestown, and five from the junction 
of the canal with th€ Merrimac, and thus more than 
an ample supply of water is afforded for lockage in 
both directions. From Boston harbour to the sum- 
mit -lev el; is 104 feet, and from thence to the Merri- 
mac is a descent of 32 feet. The entire rise and 
fall is 136 feet, and serves to illustrate the inflec- 
tions of surface. In a direct line, it is only 16 miles 
from Boston harbour to the summit-level, rising 
104 feet, or at a mean of 6| feet per mile. If we 
suppose, as we may do reasonably, that the tides in 
the harbour of Boston, and in the mouth of the Mer- 
rimac, are level with each other, we then find that 
the Merrimac channel rises 104 less 32 or 74 feet 
in the intermediate space from the Atlantic ocean 
to Chelmsford, in a distance, following the stream, 
of about 35, but in a direct line only 26 miles. 

This, called the Middlesex canal, from the coun- 
ty through which it has been formed, is of so much 
utility, and has been so very imperfectly executed, 
that in the advance of improvement, it is probable 
it will be entirely re-construc^ed. It is rapidly be- 
coming a maxim in canal and road architecture, 
to undertake neither, until their practicabilitij and 
benefits are made manifest; but when once under- 
taken, to be only formed from and based on Jierma- 
nent materials. 

Middlesex canal opens to Boston, the commerce 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. . 181 

of the Merrimac basin, the position and extent of 
which will soon be shown. 

Canals have been projected to unite Massachu- 
setts bay and Buzzard's bay, and surveys and levels 
taken from Back river of the latter, andScussett's ri- 
ver of the former; distance found, 7 miles, and summit 
level 40 feet above low water mark, in Buzzard's 
bay. Tide in Massachusetts bay, 18, and in Buz- 
zard's, o\ feet. 

Another survey was made from Barnstable, in 
Massachusetts, to Hyannus harbour, and here simi- 
lar obstacles were discovered as had been found be- 
tween Buzzard's bay and Scussett's river. Hyan- 
nus, like the head of Buzzard's bay, is incommoded 
with shoals, and has only a tide of 4 feet. In Barn- 
stable bay the tides are 16 feet. Summit level, 80 
feet above low tide. 

Another and more interior route has engaged the 
attention of the legislature of Massachusetts, and 
that is, to unite Weymouth landing, in Boston har- 
bour, with Taunton river, which we have already 
described as entering into Narraganset bay. Two 
routes have been examined, and one found 26, the 
other 23| miles. Intermediate summit level 133 
feet, but by digging 10 feet for the space of one mile, 
may be reduced to 123. The facility of obtaining a 
sufficient supply of water on the summit level has 
not yet been very satisfactorily determined. If prac- 
ticable, a single glance on a map of the United 
States will exhibit the immense addition such a ca- 
nal would be to the internal navigation of the United 
States. 

Passing Cape Ann, the coast again curves into a 
deep bay, which at its greatest sweep receives Mer- 
rimac river at Newburyport. 

The Merrimac is formed by the Merrimac pro- 
per, and the Nashua, and Concord rivers. The 
Merrimac rises in the highest mountain nucleus of 
the United States, north-east from the Hudson, and 



182 GEOGRAPHIOAL VIEW. 

interlocking sources with the Amanoosuck branch 
of Connecticut, and those of Saco. The general 
course of the Merrimac, from its source to its junc- 
tion with the outlet of Winnepisseogee lake, from 
the north-east, is very nearly due south, 50 miles. 
It thence inclines to S. S. E. 12 miles, and receives 
from the south-west the Contocook. Continuing the 
latter course about 40 miles, it is augmented by the 
Nashua from S. S. W. Below the mouth of Nashua 
the Merrimac, in a distance of 12 miles, gradually 
curves to the east, and falls over a ledge of rocks 
below Chelmsford. At the foot of the Chelmsford 
falls, the Concord enters from the S. S. W., and the 
Merrimac turns to N. E. SO miles, to the Atlantic 
ocean. 

The difference of level in the extremes of this ba- 
sin, independent of the peaks of the Vx^'hite Moun- 
tains of New Hampshire, 7300 feet, is very consi- 
derable. With it commences that admixture of 
lake and mountain scenery, so characteristic of the 
north-eastern section of the United States. The 
lake physiognomy, however, is not confined to that 
section alone; but, on the contrary, is an elongation 
into Maine and New Hampshire of that great fea- 
ture which is perceived on leaving the basin of Mis- 
sissippi to arrive on that of St. Lawrence. Over all 
the continents of both Americas, from the extreme 
south at Cape Horn, lakes, in the real meaning of 
the term, are rare, and when found, comparatively- 
small, until the basin of the Mississippi is passed. 
That vast assemblage of fresh water reservoirs, 
which separate the United States from Canada, is 
only a bold frontispiece to an enormous volume, 
which spreads over the residue of North America, 
as far as known towards the northern pole. It may 
be observed, that if we commence a traverse of the 
Appalachian system at its south-western extremity, 
we find no existing lakes, but advancing northwards, 
these minor basins appear on a very small scale in 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 183 

the Susquehanna basin, and accumulate in number, 
proceeding over the Hudson and Connecticut basins, 
but still continue diminutive. But with the Merri- 
mac we meet, in Winnepisseogee, a sheet of water 
of 25 miles in length and from one to ten miles wide, 
and not remaining solitary, but followed in rapid 
succession by others of various dimensions. Indeed 
no known river of the continent, beyond the Merri- 
mac, is without lakes as a part of its physical fea- 
tures. 

As a commercial or navigable basin, the impor- 
tance of the Merrimac has been much enhanced by 
the Middlesex canal, and other improvements made 
on the river itself. According to the estimates made 
by Mr. Sullivan, the lands within six miles from the 
canal, have risen one third in price; while land in 
the country generally retains its former value. In 
the state of New Hampshire, through which the 
Merrimac flows, timber is now worth from one to 
three dollars per ton standing; before the canal was 
made it was worth nothing; so that in the article of 
timber alone, that state is supposed to have been 
benefitted to the amount of 5,000,000 of dollars. The 
good land there has risen in price since the opening 
of the canal, from ^2 to ^6, ^8, or ^10 per acre. 

If this statement is correct, it is a most valuable 
commentary on canal making; but the Merrimac 
has been improved by other works. The tide rises 
only to Haverhill, 18 miles. I have shewn that the 
surface of the river above the Chelmsford falls is 74 
feet above tide water. In order to pass the falls, a 
canal of three locks descends 34 feet. It does not 
meet the tide, but though the stream is still rapid, 
it is navigable, and following the minute bends, falls 
45 feet, and reaches the tide at Haverhill. 

Above Chelmsford the Merrimac has been made 
navigable to Concord. The first great improve- 
ment made in the stream below the latter place is 
the Bow canal, constructed in 1812. Hooksett ca-- 



184 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

nal, 6 miles still lower, in a fall of 17 feet, passes 
another difficult fall or rapid. Amoskeag canal, 8 miles 
below that of Hooksett, affords the second most ex- 
tensive body of work of a similar nature in New 
England. In 9 miles below Amoskeag canal, are 6 
more of smaller extent, round as many falls or ra-' 
pids. Cromwell's falls, also made navigable by a 
canal, is 14 miles below Amoskeag, and still lower 
is the Wicasse falls, around which is also a canal, 
the last above that of Middlesex. 

Taken comparatively, more of labour and money 
have been expended on the Merrimac than upon 
any other river of the United States. 

The small basin of Piscataqua, enclosed in the 
land-side by those of Merrimac and Saco, gains ce- 
lebrity by containing near its efflux the fine haven 
of Portsmouth, in New Hampshire. This singu- 
larly constructed basin is nearly in form of a paral- 
lelogram, 40 by 25 miles, area 1000 square miles. 
Salmon Fall river from the N. N. W., and Conche- 
cho from the N. W., unite about 10 miles north- 
west from Portsmouth, turn south, and flowing in that 
direction 5 miles, receives the outlet of an interior 
lake called Great Bay. This latter sheet of water 
is the estuary of Lamprey's and Exeter rivers, and 
extending from north to south, eight or ten miles, 
leaves a peninsula between it and the Atlantic ocean 
on which Portsmouth stands, and on the south side 
of the haven formed by the discharge of the waters 
of the basin. The name of Piscataqua has been 
frequently applied to Salmon Fall river, but is more 
correctly restricted to the tide water channel, be- 
low the mouth of Conchecho river, and particularly 
below the discharge of Great Bay. 

As a navigable basin, except near its mouth, the 
Piscataqua is unimportant. The acclivity of the 
country is so rapid that the tides are arrested at a 
short distance inland. Portsmouth harbour itself is, 
however, perhaps the best haven on the Atlantic 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 185 

coast t)f the United States; and the very high tides 
prevent accumulation of ice, and leave this harbour 
open throughout all seasons. 

The basin of Saco follows that of Piscataqua, if 
we include in the former the small river Kennebunk. 
Saco is a real mountain stream, and draws its ex- 
treme sources from the summits and vallies of the 
White Mountains. Augmented by these Alpine 
snows, the Saco flows south-east 20 miles, receives 
Swift river from the west, and turns to north-east 
18 miles. Hence the stream again suddenly bends 
to S. S. E., which course is maintained 50 miles to 
its efflux into the Atlantic ocean. So very rapid is 
the rise of the land, that though the tides at its mouth 
exceed 20 feet, they are arrested at Biddeford, 7 
miles above the ocean. 

Kennebunk, on the small river Kennebimk, is the 
principal entrepot of the basin, and is a port of con- 
siderable consequence. 

Rising from a mountain chain at an elevation of 
7300 feet, Saco basin, though not attaining, yet ap- 
proaches the region of perpetual snow, and if we 
estimate 400 feet as an equivalent to a degree of 
latitude, the actual diff"erence in the basin itself, 
added to the allowance for relative height, would 
yield an extreme of temperature equal to 20 degrees 
of latitude. 

If we multiply the square root of the height of any 
given mountain in feet, by 1.2247, the quotient is the 
distance in miles from which it can be seen upon the 
surface of the sphere. From this formula. White 
Mountain, allowing its elevation to be 7300 feet, can 
be seen at a distance of 104^ miles; and consequent- 
ly renders its summit visible on the Atlantic ocean 
from the outlet of Merrimac to Penobscot bay, and 
at a distance of 35 miles from the shore opposite the 
mouth of Saco. This is the only part of the Atlan- 
tic ocean from which the distinct ridges or chains 
of the Appalachian system can be seen. 
a2 



186 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

The basin of Presumscot or Casco follows that of 
Saco. The former, though mferior in extent, is 
nevertheless, in a navigable point of view, of supe- 
rior consequence to the latter. The higher source 
of Presumscot, Crooked river, rises in the spurs of 
the White Mountains, and near the Amariscoggin. 
Flowing thence south-east 30 miles fails into a large 
lake called Sebago pond, about 10 miles square. 
From the eastern side of Sebago pond the stream 
again issues and is known as Presumscot river, which 
by a curve to the southward, but by a general course 
of south-east 20 miles, falls into Casco bay, opposite 
Portland in Maine. 

Casco bay is a noble sheet of water stretching 
from S. W. to N. E. 20 miles, with a mean width of 
5 miles, land-locked by a chain of islands, and hav- 
ing at the south-west extremity the important har- 
bour of Portland; but, here again the rapid accli- 
vity of the shores arrests the tides at a few miles 
from the Atlantic. 

The small basin of Casco is succeeded by the_ 
comparatively great basin of Kennebeck. With 
the outlet of the latter the direction and character 
of the Atlantic coast again change. Hitherto, from 
Florida Point we have found the coast, though much 
indented by bays and chequered by islands, yet, if 
contrasted with that part of the survey which 
we now commence, tolerably uniform. But from 
Casco to Passamaquoddy bay, long projecting pe- 
ninsular points, islands of all shapes and bearing, 
with deep intervening bays, render the coast of 
Maine one of the most intricate on earth; and if not 
opened by excessive tides, one of the most un- 
navigable in winter. 

The regular physical structure of the Atlantic 
coast of the United States receives another illustra- 
tion in the coast from Casco to the head of the Bay 
of Fundy. It has been shewn from actual calcula- 
tion that the intervening coast of the United States, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 187 

between Savannah river and Cape Hatteras, was 
N. 56° 30' E., and vice versa in its bearing. Long- 
Island we found lying in a direction N. 69° 44' E., 
which is very nearly that of the entire coast from 
the mouth of the Hudson to the outer projection of 
Barnstable peninsula. By similar means we find 
that Portland in N. lat. 43° 38', long. W. C. 6° 42' 
E., and Quoddy Point in N. lat. 44° 44', and long. 
W. C. 10° E., bear from each other N. 65° 05' E., 
distant 181^ English miles. The latter course if 
continued north-eastward will follow the Bay of 
Fundy to the head of Chignecto channel, and is very 
near parallel to the outer coast of Nova Scotia and 
the island of Cape Breton. 

Thus it appears that where the Atlantic coast of 
North America, from Florida to St. Lawrence bay, 
inflects to the N. E. and S. W., the angles of inflec- 
tion approximate towards regularity or rather uni- 
formity of construction, which certainly evinces, if 
it does not demonstrate, a general and widely ex- 
tended system, which, if admitted to exist, presup- 
poses an adequate cause. 

With these preliminary remarks we proceed to 
survey the basins of Maine eastward from that of 
Presumscot. Kennebec basin is bounded south by 
the Atlantic ocean, south-west by the basins of Pre- 
sumscot and Saco, west by that of Connecticut, 
north-west by that of the Chaudiere, and north and 
east by that of Penobscot. The Kennebec basin 
lies in a general direction from north to south, ex- 
tending from N. lat. 43° 40' to 45° 46', and in long, 
from 5° 45' to 7° 50' E. from W. C. 

The Kennebec river is formed by tv/o great 
branches; the Androscoggin and Kennebec proper. 
The former is the south-western branch, and rising 
in the same ridge with the Connecticut, at about N. 
lat. 45° 12', flows by numerous branches 20 or 25 
miles southwardly into a congeries of lakes, out of 
the westernmost of which, the Uinbagog, the 



188 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

united waters now a large stream, issues in a west- 
ern direction. Turning quickly to the south, and 
pursuing that course 30 miles, distant from 15 to 25 
miles from Connecticut, and by the name of Ama- 
riscoggin, reaches the northern base of the main nu- 
cleus of the White Mountains. Again curving at 
nearly right angles, pierces the mountain chain and 
flows nearly due east 50 miles, where it once more 
bends at right angles and assumes a southern course, 
which is continued SO miles to N. lat. 44°, below 
which, by a gradual curve of 20 miles, first south- 
east, thence east, and finally north-east, it unites 
with Kennebec above Bath, after an entire compara- 
tive course of 135 miles. Below the mountains this 
stream is known as the Androscoggin, and though 
it receives no large tributary branches, is augment- 
ed by numerous creeks, and is, for its length, a very 
large river, a remark, however, which may be 
made and applied to all the rivers of Maine. 

The principal stream of the basin, the Kennebec, 
rises opposite the sources of the Chaudiere, and 
south from those of the Penobscot, and formed by 
an intricacy of lakes and creeks flows to the east 40 
miles, and falls into Moosehead lake. This sheet of 
water stretching 30 miles from north to south, with 
a breadth from 5 to 20 miles, discharges Kennebec 
river from its south-western side. Flowing S. S. 
W. about 20 miles it receives Dead river, a conside- 
rable branch from the west, and turning to a south- 
ern course about 40 miles, bends thence 5 miles to 
Norridgewock. Below the latter place, the Kenne- 
bec curves to the north-east 10 miles, and thence 
S. S. E. 20 miles to the influx from the north-east 
of the Sebasticook river, and slowly assuming a 
course of a little W. of S. 35 miles, joins the Andros- 
coggin after an entire comparative course of 180 
miles. 

The Kennebec, below the union of its two great 
branch js, is rather a complex bay than a river. Be- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 189 

low Bath, the long narrow peninsula of Phippsburg 
reaches about 20 miles due south, and forms the 
western boundary of Kennebec bay. Eastward from 
that peninsula spread numerous islands and inter- 
locking channels, which indent the coast upwards 
of 40 miles to Penobscot bay. In this place, the prin- 
cipal entrances are Sheepscut river, Damariscotta 
river, and St. George's river. 

As a navigable basin the Kennebec is of great 
importance; the tide ascends Kennebec proper 
to Augusta 40 miles, and up the Androscoggin 
to near Durham, about 35 miles from the open 
ocean. Though both branches are obstructed by 
falls and shoals, they afford considerable facility to 
inland navigation; the principal article of down 
stream transportation is lumber. 

Penobscot basin follows that of Kennebec, and 
opens to the Atlantic ocean by a wide bay 30 
miles in depth. The Penobscot basin has that 
of Kennebec west, St. John's north, and St. Croix 
or Passamaquoddy east. 

Geographically, Penobscot extends from the Fox 
islands, at the mouth of Penobscot bay, at N. lat. 
43° 53', to the extreme northern source of Pe- 
nobscot river at N. lat. 46° 12', and in long, from 6° 
36' to 9° 10' E. of W. C. In form it has a rude 
resemblance to a tree, the root towards the ocean 
and top-spreading inland, general direction about 
north and south, with a large protruding branch 
to the north-west. 

Penobscot is formed by two unequal branches, 
Penobscot proper, and Piscataquis. The remote 
north-western sources of the Penobscot reach to 
within 60 miles from the St. Lawrence, immedi- 
ately below Quebec, and have interlocking sources 
with the St. John's, Kennebec, and Chaudiere. 
Similar to the other streams of that region, the 
Penobscot is formed by a congeries of lakes, and 
interlocking creeks, ^vhich flow by a general course 



190 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of S. E. 40 miles into Chesuncook lake, a sheet of 
water, about 15 by 5 miles. Issuing again from 
the south-east angle of Chesuncook lake, the Pe- 
nobscot continues S. E. 45 miles, to the influx of 
Watawankeag river from the N. E. Below their 
junction the united waters turn to S. S. W. 25 
Dules, to the influx from the west of the Piscata- 
quis. 

The latter stream, though the principal confluent 
of the Penobscot, is comparatively small, having a 
general covirse not exceeding 45 miles. The Pisca- 
taquis is, however, for its brief length, a large stream, 
having sources spread around the east side of Moose 
Head lake, and extending from north to south up- 
wards of 40 miles. 

Now a spacious and wide river, the Penobscot 
continues its course to the Atlantic ocean a little W. 
of S. Thirty miles below the Piscataquis the tide is 
met at Bangor, and graduall)'^ widening 30 miles far- 
ther opens into an expansive bay between Castine 
and Belfast. Chequered and decorated with nume- 
rous islands and peninsular points, Penobscot bay 
finally terminates between St, George's Point and 
the Fox Islands. The bay and river included, the 
Penobscot has a course of 215 miles. 

Though less extensive than the united basins of 
the Androscoggin and Kennebec, the Penobscot ba- 
sin is more navigable; the tide rises to Bangor, 60 
miles w^ithin the outer capes of the bay, nor do shoals 
occur immediately above the termination of the 
tide; a circumstance in which the Penobscot is sin- 
gular amongst the great streams of the Atlantic slope 
of the United States. Navigation remains uninter- 
rupted by any obstruction except the current 20 
miles above Bangor, and is used for an immense 
lumber transportation far above the Piscataquis. 

The northern sections of both the Kennebec and 
Penobscot basins remain uncultivated wilds ; but set- 
tlements are slowly extending into those entangled 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 191 

regions, and as usual in the United States, projected 
improvements follow discovery, and precede settle- 
ment. Upper Penobscot river, above Chesuncook 
lake, flows past, and within two miles from, the 
northern extremity of Moose Head lake. Here a 
canal has been proposed, which with the actual set- 
tlement of the country by a dense population will be 
carried into effect, and unite the Kennebec and Pe- 
nobscot near their sources. 

From Penobscot bay to that of Passamaquoddy, 
in a distance of 100 miles along the margin of the 
ocean, a number of small rivers form bays of more 
or less depth and width, the principal of which are 
Union river, Narraguagus river. Pleasant river. 
Chandler's river, Machias river, and East river. 

Union river terminates in Blue Hill bay, and ris- 
ing at N. lat, 45°, flows a little west of south, almost 
exactly parallel to the Penobscot, at from 10 to 15 
miles distance. Including Union river and Blue 
Hill bay, the whole course is about 70 miles. 

With the considerable island Mount Desert inter- 
vening, Blue Hill bay is followed to the north-east 
18 miles by a much wider, and deeper opening. 
Frenchman's bay. No river or even large creek 
enters the head of the latter, which is also the case 
with two smaller indentings still farther eastward, 
Goldsboro' and Dyer's bays. ■ 

Narraguagas and Pleasant rivers flow into one 
vast estuary, the western extension of which is called 
Pidgeon Hill bay, and receives the Narraguagas ; 
and the eastern, into which is poured Pleasant river, 
bears the same name with its confluent. The Nar- 
raguagas and Pleasant rivers are still more humble 
than Union river, neither of the former having sources 
40 miles inland. 

Chandler's river and its estuary Englishman's 
bay, between Pleasant and Machias bays, are unim- 
portant in a general sketch. 

Geographically, this small maritime slope, con- 



192 GEOGKAl'HICAL VIEW. 

taining the minor basins I have noticed, lies between 
N. lat. 44° and 45°, and between Long. W.C. 8° 20', 
and 10° E. Length along the Atlantic ocean about 
90 miles, with a mean width about 30, area 2700 
square miles. As a navigable section it is remarka- 
ble for the number and convenience of its harbours, 
and its very varied and picturesque scenery; but it 
is, of all parts of the coast of Maine of equal extent 
on the ocean, that in which the tides penetrate ihe 
least distance inland. 

Machias bay and its confluents deserve particular 
notice, as the last deep indenting of the Atlantic 
coast of the United States, advancing from south- 
west to north-east, and which are entirely within its 
territory. Into this basin is discharged the two 
Machias rivers, East Machias and West Machias. 
On the former stand the two maritime villages of 
the same name, 15 miles north from the main ocean. 
West Machias heads about 40 miles north-west 
from Machias, and interlocks with Union river, and 
consequently both overspread the smaller interme- 
diate streams. 

North-east from Machias bay, occurs a phenome- 
non on the coast of Maine, a distance of 21 miles 
■without an opening worthy notice. This uniform 
shore is the outer margin of a peninsula, formed by 
an arm of Machias bay, and Cubscook bay, opening 
from the western side of Passamaqvioddy bay. 
Quoddy head is the eastern projection of this penin- 
sula, which would seem to demand from its position 
a distinctive name. 

We have now reached the north-eastern limit of 
the United States, and merge into Passamaquoddy 
bay. This expanse of water gains intense interest 
as forming a definite boundary to the United States 
on the Atlantic ocean. As an object in physical geo- 
graphy, this bay is only a curved indenting of the 
greater bay of Fundy. Before, therefore, we notice 
the former, a general view must be given of the lat- 
ter. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 193 

The peninsula of Nova Scotia is united to the con- 
tinent by a long narrow isthmus. This neck is 
bounded on one side by the southern extension of 
the bay or gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the other 
by two triangular protrusions of the bay of Fundy. 
The peninsula rises like an island, and stretching 
from S. W. to N. E. about 300 miles, with a mean 
breadth of 60. Between the south-western part of 
Nova-Scotia and the continent, an interval of about 
55 miles width, and 150 in depth, is occupied by the 
bay of Fundy. Its opening into the Atlantic ocean 
is narrowed by Manan island, lying six miles outside 
Quoddy point, and by a long and narrow strip of 
land, stretching from and nearly parallel to the op- 
posite coast of Nova Scotia. At the north-east ex- 
tremity, Fundy bay is again subdivided into two 
smaller bays, Chignecto and Mines. The particular 
bay of Passamaquoddy is, as has been observed, only 
a mere extension of the bay of Fundy at the outlet 
of St. Croix or Schoodic river. 

At Quoddy point the coast turns to N.N W. and 
pursuing that direction 20 miles to the outlet of St. 
Croix. In a northerly course from Quoddy point, 
leaving a narrow intermediate strait between them 
and the continent, stretch two islands, Campo Bello 
and Deer Island. The latter, reaching nearly to 
contact with a point of New Brunswick, leaves Pas- 
samaquoddy bay nearly land locked. To assist the 
memory, it may be noticed, that N. lat. 45°, and 
long. W. C. 10*, E. intersect immediately outside of 
Deer Island, and 9 miles due east from the mouth of 
St. Croix. 

Schoodic or St. Croix river is formed by two 
branches ; the St. Croix proper, and Schoodic. St. 
Croix rises at N. lat. 45° 50', long. W. C. 9° lO' E. 
The sources are, however, rather a congeries of 
lakes than any definite stream, which curve from 
south to east 40 miles by the name of Grand Lake. 
From this inundated tract isbues a btream flowing: 



194 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

south 25 miles, and there unites with the outlet of 
another series of lakes, called the Schoodic lakes. 
Inclining a little E. of S., the St. Croix continues its 
course 15 miles, below its junction with Schoodic. 
Here between the United States village of Milltown 
and the British village of St. Stephens, this river 
bends abruptly to the N.- E. 7 miles; thence curving, 
first east 5 miles, and finally to the S. E. 7 or 8 miles, 
is lost in Passamaquoddy bay, after a comparative 
course of 100 miles. 

The Schoodic or western branch of the St. Croix, 
is the drain of an inundated or swampy tract, be- 
tween Penobscot and St. Croix, above N. lat. 45°, 
and 9" E. 

This great expanse of surface we have been sur- 
veying, extends over almost as much of the habita- 
ble earth as does Great Britain in Europe, andFrance 
taken together, and extending from N. lat. 28° 15' 
to 46° 12', stretches through nearly 18 degrees of 
latitude. Approaching at the southern extremity 
so near the tropic of Cancer, the facility of vegeta- 
ble production seems without assignable limit. Be- 
side an indefinite number of smaller and less impor- 
tant openings, we have found about thirty entrances 
of great extent and depth. 

When reviev/ing the political subdivisions, we 
shall have a farther opportunity to develope its fu- 
ture capabilities whilst describing its actual condi- 
tion. In this place, in order to complete a physical 
view of this part of the continent of North America, 
I shall continue the survey to St. Lawrence gulf, 
and close this section of our view by an examination 
of the great basin of St. Lawrence. 

Sixty miles a little N, of E. from the mouth of St. 
Croix, the great river St. Johns enters the northern 
side of the bay of Fundy. Geographically, the 
basin of St. Johns extends from N. lat. 45° 15' to N. 
lat. 48°, and in long, from 6° 40' to 11° 40' E. Ly- 
ing in a position from N, W. to S. E., this basin is in 



GEOGRAPHICAI, VIEW. 195 

form of a parallelogram, 240 miles long, and about 80 
mean width; area 19,200 square miles. Independent 
of any artificial improvement the St. Johns is one of 
the most navigable of the Atlantic rivers, being 
much less impeded by rapids, shoals, or falls, than 
any other stream intervening between it and the 
Hudson. It is formed by two main branches; the 
St. Johns has its extreme fountains in the N. W, 
part of Maine, interlocking sources with those of the 
Penobscot, and Chaudiere, at N. lat. 46° 10', long. 
6^ 40' E. Flowing thence N. E. about 100 miles 
nearly parallel to, and about 40 miles distant from, 
St. Lawrence river, curves to the east and receives 
from the south a large branch, the Alaguash. 
Assuming a course of N. E. by E, of 40 miles, in 
which distance, 6 miles below the Alaguash, the 
main stream is augmented by the St. Frangois from 
the north, and at the termination of this course by 
the still more considerable confluent, also from the 
north, the Matawaska. 

The St. Frangois rises between Maine and Lower 
Canada, about 15 miles from the St. Lawrence, be- 
tween Nare and Green islands, at N. lat. 47° 45', 
and flowing thence, about 40 miles comparative 
course, falls into St. Johns. 

The Mattawaska is a stream deserving particular 
notice, as at and near its mouth extends, along St. 
Johns, the settlement of the same name, now a sub- 
ject of negociation between the United States and 
Great Britain. See the map of that section of Maine. 

The Mattawaska, the northern branch of St. 
Johns, drains the extreme northern angle of Maine, 
and consequently, of the United States part of the 
Atlantic slope. The remote sources of this stream 
rise witliin 20 miles from the main volume of St. 
Lawrence, or about 30 due south from the mouth of 
Rimousky river, at N. lat. 48°. Flowing S. E. 
about 80 miles, the Mattawaska joins the St. Johns. 
Below their junction, the united streams flow S.S.E. 



196 GEOGRAPHICAL TIKW. 

40 miles, and inflect to a little E. of S. at N.lat. 47° 
and uursue the latter course 80 miles. From some 
distance above the junction of St. Johns and Matta- 
waska, the main volume flows at a small distance 
from the eastern verge of its basin; the Ristigouche, 
Nipisigic, and Miramichi, all rise near the St. Johns, 
and flow north-eastwardly into the gulf of St. Law- 
rence. 

The only confluent of St. Johns below the Matta- 
waska which deserves particular notice, is the im- 
perfectly known Aroostook. Interlocking sources 
with the Penobscot, the Aroostook follows the in- 
flections of the St. Johns, flows first 50 miles a little 
E. of N., and thence about an equal distance N.-E. 
by E., and unites with its recipient at 46° 44' N. 

If a line is drawn along the earth's surface from 
the Saco river, where that stream traverses the 
White Mountain chain, and extended thence north- 
east, it will pass over a series of bends in the An- 
droscoggin, Kennebec, Penobscot and St. Johns, 
which when viewed on a map appear as if construct- 
ed from a given model, and afford conclusive evi- 
dence of a uniform structure in that section of the 
continent, and exhibit another instance, in the ab- 
sence of mountain representation, of the defects of 
our maps. 

We have traced the St. Johns to its great curve, 
where in perfect accordance with the Saco, Andros- 
coggin, Kennebec, and Penobscot, it inflects to the 
north-east, which course it maintains 25 miles, and 
again turns to nearly east 50 miles. It is now a tide 
water river of great width and volume, and again 
bending assumes nearly a southern course of 50 miles, 
and is lost in the bay of Fundy, after an entire com- 
parative course of 380 miles. 

As a navigable channel, the St. Johns is much su- 
perior to any other stream of the United States north- 
east from the Hudson. The excessive high tides, 
and projecting rocks near its mouth, render it difti- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 19T 

cult of entrance except between the ebb and flow. 
The tides rise within its channel upwards of 80 
miles. The mouth between St. Johns and Castleton, 
is narrow, and has only 17 feet water at low tides. 
Over this bar the incumbent mass of Avaters, above 
fifty feet, rush with prodigious velocity and eddying 
violence, particularly at the flow, when the ocean 
swell encounters the current of the river; but within 
all is safety. 

DijfFering near three degrees of latitude, and per- 
haps one thousand feet in elevation, the tem- 
perature of the air over this basin must pre- 
sent extremes equivalent to five or six degrees, and 
when compared with the climate of the middle 
states of the United States, that of St. Johns must 
be severe in winter. The soil has been described 
as greatly more fertile than found in the basins of 
New England generally. All concurrent testimony 
represent this basin as of great importance in an 
agricultural and commercial point of view, but in 
reality the greater part of its surface remains a wil- 
derness imperfectly known. 

The peninsula of Nova Scotia with the island of 
Cape Breton, forms the north-eastern extremity of 
the Atlantic slope of North America. Cape Breton, 
following the general direction of Nova Scotia, and 
only separated by a very narrow channel, may be 
correctly united in a general view, and so estimated, 
presents a body of land stretching from N. W. to 
S. E. about 300 with a mean width of 70; area 21,000 
square miles. Of this extent it is probable Nova 
Scotia contains three-fourths. The inclination of the 
peninsula, like every other part of the Atlantic slope, 
is towards the Atlantic ocean. The rivers, brief as to 
length of course, rise near the western side and flow 
south-eastward into the Atlantic. To this general 
arrangement, St. Mary's river offers a singular ex- 
ception. This stream rises near the southern s de 
of the bay of Mines, and flows parallel to the bay of 
H 2 



198 GEaGRAPHICAI, VIEW. 

Fundy, leaving a long narrow intervening strip from 
one to ten miles wide, and enters the Atlantic ocean 
at the S. W. angle of Nova Scotia. 

Cape Breton is formed by two comparatively long 
peninsular points, which, extending northward and 
north-eastward, leave a wide intermediate bay. The 
convex side of the island approaches to within one 
mile from the north-east extremity of Nova Scotia. 

The interior features of both the island and penin- 
sula are rugged and broken, and the latter, along the 
Atlantic very much indented by boldly rising points 
and deep bays. 

In delineating the features and extent of the bay 
of Fundy, an incidental notice was taken of the isth- 
mus which connected Nova Scotia to New Bruns- 
wick. This irregular neck of land has the head of 
Fundy Bay to the S. W. and the straits of Prince 
Edward N. E. From the head of Mines bay to the 
mouth of Retcoudiac river, it is about 90 miles in 
length, with a mean breadth from 25 to 30. The 
peninsula and isthmus, with the islands of Cape Bre- 
ton and Prince Edward, form the province of Nova 
Scotia. The island of Prince Edward stretches along 
the southern part of the gulf of St. Lawrence 90 
miles, with a mean width of 25 ; area, 2250 square 
miles. Taken together the four natural sections of 
Nova Scotia contain an aggregate area of 25,500 
square miles. 

Between the basin of St. Johns and the gulf of 
St. Lawrence, and between the head of the bay of 
Fundy and the basin of St. Lawrence, extends a 
triangular slope, the rivers of which are discharged 
into the gulf of St. Lawrence. This slope, forming 
the eastern part of the province of New Brunswick, 
stretches from N. lat. 45° 40' to N. lat. 48° 30', and 
m long. W. C, 9° to 12° 30' E. Length 220; mean 
breadth, 50; area, 11,000 square miles. 

The eastern shores of New Brunswick, beside 
minor indentings, are broken by two deep gulfs, Mi- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 199 

ramichi and Chaleur bays. Into the former is dis- 
charged Miramichi river, a stream of 90 miles in 
length, rising interlocking sources with Shicaticoke 
branch of St. John, and flowing N. E. by E. enters 
the head of Miramichi bay, at N. lat. 47° !(/. 

Into the much more extensive opening of Chaleur 
bay, is discharged Ristigouche river. This stream 
is formed by two branches, the Ristigouche proper 
and the Matapediac ; the former heading near the 
confluence of St. Johns and the Matawaska, and the 
latter in a lake south from the Paps of Matane on 
the St. Lawrence. The two branches unite near 
the head of Chaleur bay, and form the north-eastern 
river of the Atlantic slope of North America, S. W. 
from the St. Lawrence. 



200 



CHAPTER VII. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF ST. LAWRENCE BASIN. 

If we regard the inclination of the plane and its 
recipient, the St. Lawrence is one of the rivers of 
the Atlantic slope, differing from those already de- 
scribed, only in extent of surface drained; bvit the 
peculiar features of the St. Lawrence basin and the 
immense superficies comprised within its limits, just- 
ly entitle it to the rank of a system. Regarding this 
fine section of the earth therefore as a whole, we 
commence to review in detail the separate parts. 

This great basin is naturally subdivided into three 
unequal parts, which may be with propriety desig- 
nated upper, lower, and middle. 

The higher basin, the bottom of which is occupi- 
ed by Lake Superior, lies in form of a rhumb; its 
position north-east and south-west 300 miles, and 
breadth from south-east to north-west nearly equal. 
Area about 90,000 square miles, one third of which 
is contained in Lake Superior. Into this reservoir 
are poured upv/ards of fifty rivers, none of which 
are of much importance, except St. Louis and the 
Riviere au Grand Portage, St. Louis falls into 
the extreme south-western angle of Lake Superior, 
and is the channel of intercommunication with up- 
per Mississippi. 

Riviere au Grand Portage, enters the north- 
west side of Lake Superior, and by its channel tlie 
route to the northern regions of North America 
leaves the Canadian sea. 

Though individually small, the quantity of water 
supplied collectively by the mmierous confluents of 
Lake Superior must be veiy great, and differs ma- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 201 

terially in different seasons of the year. The whole 
mass, composing a large river, is precipitated 
through the straits and down the falls of St. Mary's. 
The surface of the lake is by measurement 641 feet 
above the Atlantic level. How much the surround- 
ing inclined plain rises, it is difficult to determine 
in the present imperfect state of geographical 
knowledge respecting those regions. Mr. School- 
craft estimates the rise of St. Louis river at 551 
feet, and independent of particular elevation, it is 
probable that no great error will be superinduced 
by estimating the outer margin of Lake Superior 
basin, at 600 feet above the level of the lake itself. 

The cataract or fall of St. Mary is 15 miles from 
the lake, at N. lat. 46° 31'. The river above and 
below the main chute has a considerable descent, 
and the entire fall from Lake Superior to Huron is 
23 feet. The whole strait is, however, with some 
difficulty navigable for canoes and boats. Sail ves- 
sels of 6 feet draught ascend to the foot of the falls. 
Those of larger size are compelled to be stopped 
at Sugar island. Below the cataract the strait 
widens, and is divided into two channels by St, 
George's island. It is supposed that one or both 
channels might be very easily deepened so as to ad- 
mit, to the fall of St. Mary, any vessel which could 
navigate Lake Huron. 

In 1820, a cession of the soil 4 miles square was 
obtained by the United States from the Chippeway 
Indians; and, on the ITih July, 1822, a command of 
three hundred troops, under Col. Brady, made the 
commencement of a military establishment at this 
place. 

With the slight depression of 23 feet, as I have 
stated, the second or middle sub basin of St. Law- 
rence is spread below that of Lake Superior. The 
middle basin extends over a quadrangular area of 
at least 160,000 square miles, having the three great 
central lakes of Michigan, Huron, and Erie as its 
lower vallies. 



202 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Lakes Huron and Michigan, united by a wide and 
short strait, lie very nearly on a general level, 618 
feet above the Atlantic ocean. This must, never- 
theless, be understood as applying to the lake level 
generally, as Michigan having a constant current 
towards Huron, must vary in level at its extremes, 
but the difference is inconsiderable. 

Lake Michigan is an immense chasm, at least 900 
feet deep and 270 miles long, by about 50 mean 
width. The confluents of both this and Huron, 
like those of Superior, are inconsiderable in par- 
ticular, but very numerous, and when swelled by 
spring rains and melted snows exert a sensible in- 
fluence on the relative height of their recipients. 

The inclination of the planes on either side of 
Lake Michigan, remains undetermined to any ex- 
actness, but from the brief length of its rivers, and 
from the flat aspect of the country from which their 
sources are derived, we are warranted in consider- 
ing their fall as moderate. These observations will 
apply with much propriety to the peninsula of 
Michigan, between Lakes Erie, Michigan, and 
Huron. 

Lake Huron is an expanded triangular body of 
water, second in mass and extent to Lake Superior. 
Receiving the vast discharge of both Superior and 
Michigan, into its north-western angle, Huron pro- 
trudes the accumulated waters from its southern 
extremity. A few detached islands lie scattered 
over the surface of Lake Superior, and a few of still 
more diminutive size chequer the northern part of 
Michigan; but Huron is almost subdivided by a re- 
gular chain. A peninsula is projected into this 
lake from its south-east side, and from which, in a 
direction S. W. by W., and nearly parallel to the 
northern side of the lake, the Manatoulin islands 
follow entirely across the lake to about midway be- 
tween the mouths of Michilimakinak and St. Mary's 
straits. Between the Manatoulin group or chain 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 203 

and the northern shore of the lake, extends a strait 
of about 200 miles in length, and with a mean width 
of about 30 miles, also much chequered with islands. 
The residue of Huron, towards the Michigan coast, 
sinks to an almost unfathomable depth; 900 or lOCO 
feet would be a moderate estimate. 

The prodigious depth of the three upper Cana- 
dian lakes is a very interesting phenomenon in phy- 
sical geography. Though the surface of the two 
lowest of the three, Michigan and Huron, -is 618 
feet elevated above the Atlantic surface, their bot- 
toms are nearly, if not altogether, 300 feet below 
the ocean tides. 

The surface of the Caspian has been determined 
by actual admeasurement to be 321 feet below that 
of the Black sea; but the Caspian is shallow, and 
its bottom, therefore, not greatly depressed below 
its surface. It is therefore probable that some 
parts of lakes Michigan or Huron are the deepest 
chasms on the continental surface of the earth. 
This is one of the principal causes of the high trans- 
parency of their waters, a circumstance in their 
natural history, which has excited the admiration of 
travellers ever since civilized man has traversed 
their bosoms. 

The margin of Lake Superior in most places pre- 
sents a broken, rugged, and often precipitous aspect; 
but descending the straits of St. Mary the harsh or 
bold features of the scenery soften, and in many 
places the shores of Huron and Michigan rise gently 
from the water edge; and even where rock bound, 
the elevations have seldom the appalling front 
which renders the navigation of Lake Superior 
so dangerous, alarming, and yet alluring to the sci- 
entific voyager. 

Both depression of surface, and advance to the 
south, have powerful and permanent effects on the 
seasons. Travellers and writers are not unfrequent- 
ly deceived, however, when speaking of the climate 



204 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of Canada; they overlook the immense extent of 
that country, and seem to regard as a spot a region 
sweeping over ten degrees of latitude. Canada 
has been extolled for the mildness and dreaded for 
the severity of its winters, and both the admiration 
and dread were just. What great similarity of tem- 
perature can be expected at Quebec, above N. lat. 
47°, and at Amherstsburg situated near 5° more 
southwardly ? But this subject will be more appro- 
priately noticed under the head of climate. 

Lake Erie basin constitutes the most southern 
section of the middle sub-basin of St. Lawrence. 
This shelf, if I may use the term, is elevated 565 ^ 
feet above the Atlantic surface, and consequently 
lies 52^ feet below the level of Michigan and Hu- 
ron, The stationary distances in which this depres- 
sion is piade are exhibited in the following table. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 



205 



No. XII. — Table of the stationary distances from Lake 
Huron to Lake Eiie. 



From Fort Gratiot, at the outlet of St. Clair 
river, to the mouth of the river Delude, 
from the United States' shore 
Upper end of Isle au Cerfe ... 
Lower do. do. . . . . 

Mouth of Pine river - . . - 

Mouth of Belle Riviere - - 
Outlet of Chenal Ecarte .... - 
Outlet of Warpole channel 
Outlet of the Eag-le channel 
Mouth of St. Clair river into Lake St. Clair 
Mouth of Huron river, from U. S. shore - 
Head of Detroit river - - 
City of DETROIT - . - . . 
Sandwich in Canada - - - 

River Roug-e, United States' shore 
Upper end of Grand Turkey island - 
Mouth of the Rivier Ecorce - . . 
Upper end of Gros Isle, United States' shore 
Lower end of Grand Turkey island - 
Riviere aux Canards ... 

Amherstsburg or Maiden, Canada 
Upper end of Bois Blanc ... 

'Lower ends of Bois Blanc and Gros Isles - 
Opposite Brown's creek, U. S. shore 
Lower extremity of Celeron island - 
Mouth of Huron river, U. S. shore, and - 
Lake Erie - - - 



Miles. 




3 


5 


8 


2 


10 


4 


14 


8 


22 


4 


26 


2 


28 


3 


31 


4 


35 


7 


42 


19 


61 


7 


68 


u 


69 


2 


71 


1 


72 


3 


75 


2 


77 


2 


79 


1 


80 


H 


m 


i 


83^ 


U 


85 


1 


86 


1 


87 


2 


89 



A fall of 52^ feet in 89 miles, demands 58 hun- 
dredths to each mile. But though thus depressed be- 
low the higher part of the basin. Lake Erie is as re- 
markable for its comparative shallowness, as are Su- 
perior, Huron, and Michigan, for their great depth. 
With the confluents of Erie, the b.asin of St, Law- 



206 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

rence has attained its utmost southern latitude, and 
now assumes its great north-eastern course, with 
a conformity to the bearing of the opposing Atlantic 
coast which could never have arisen from accident. 

Lake Erie is 230 miles long from S. W. to N. E. 
The form elliptical but much elongated, the breadth 
but little exceeding 50 at the widest, and not ave- 
raging more than 35 miles. The bottom of Lake 
Erie appears to be composed of an alluvial deposit 
of sand and mud, resting on an immense secondary- 
schistose sandstone. Depth seldom exceeding 200 
feet, and in few places so much. The great depth 
indeed of the upper lakes seems to terminate at the 
outlet of Huron. Assuming the name of St. Clair's 
river, the vast discharge of Huron issues by a rapid 
current of 35 miles, but moderately deep, to Lake 
St. Clair. The latter is a circular sheet of water 
of about 20 miles diameter, and very shallow, ad- 
mitting only vessels of moderate size. Issuing again 
from the south-west angle of Lake St. Clair, the now 
enormous body of water rolls down a wide strait of 
28 miles, called by an admixture of French and 
English Detroit river. This term as it stands is 
really very appropriate, as the stream between St, 
Clair and Erie lakes does in fact partake of the two 
characters of strait and river, and may be with 
great propriety designated the Strait river. Criti- 
cally speaking, however, the straits of St. Mary's, 
Michilimakinak,St. Clair, Detroit, Niagara, and the 
whole St. Lawrence, below Lake Ontario, are all 
straits, diifering only in length and quantity of water. 

Detroit river, like St. Clair, is generally shallow, 
and only admits vessels of 7 or 8 feet draught. 
Compared with its great extent of coast, and the 
numerous streams poured into the western and 
south-western shores of Erie, that lake is a very 
vmnavigable sheet of water; no one of its rivers, ex- 
cept Detroit, admitting vessels of 8 feet draught. 

As a minor basin, the particular valley of Erie 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 207 

exhibits peculiar features. If we turn to a map of 
that part of the St. Lawrence basin, we behold a 
long triangular peninsula, protruded from the coun- 
try north from Lake Ontario, and extending south- 
west, having Lakes Huron and St. Clair, with their 
connecting strait and Detroit river north-west, and 
Lakes Ontario and Erie with Niagara river south- 
east. The salient point of this peninsula is that 
part of Upper Canada opposite the city of Detroit, 
and upon it, about 120 miles north-east from that 
city, a river rises, which flowing south-west enters 
Lake St. Clair, under the name of Thames. The 
course of this stream is very nearly parallel to Lake 
Erie, leaving an intermediate strip of land, upwards 
of 100 miles in length, and about 30 wide. The po- 
sition of the Thames valley is therefore such, that 
more than two-thirds of the northern shore of Erie 
receives no stream amounting to the size of a large 
creek, and in the same distance offers no opening 
worthy the name of a harbour. The northern 
shores are indeed, in all their extent, low and sandy, 
rising slowly from the margin of the lake. 

A small river, the Ouse, or Wellard, enters the 
north-east part of lake Erie, between Norfolk and 
Lincoln counties; and in a commercial point of view 
it is now becoming of great consequence.* 

Turning our attention to the south-east shore of 
lake Erie, at the head of Niagara river, we perceive 
a slope extending about 30 miles inland, and down 
which flow a few large creeks, the principal of 
which are Buffaloe and Cataraugus; but, advancing 
south-west up the lake beyond the valley of the lat- 
ter creek, we are presented with an interesting phe- 
nomenon. The sources of the Ohio valley rise with- 
in five miles from the lake shore. Continuing south- 
west, this very narrow inclined plain widens slowly 
for a distance of 230 miles to the sources of Maumee 

* See Canals. 



208 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

river, where it reaches 100 miles inland. The 
length of the rivers correspond to the width of the 
plain down which they flow, and Conneaut, Grand 
river, Cuyahoga, Rock river. Black river, Vermil- 
lion, Huron, Sandusky, and Maumee, are, with the 
exceptions of Cuyahoga, nearly in the proportions of 
length to the graduations of a regular scale. 

With the western curve of Erie, the inclined 
plain which supplies its rivers curves also, and is con- 
tinued to the northward, forming south-eastern 
Michigan, and beside many lesser streams, discharges 
the rivers Raisin and Huron into this lake. * 

The elevation of the summit level in the state of 
Ohio, which constitutes the southern protrusion of 
St. Lawrence basin, is about four hundred feet above 
lake Erie, or in round numbers, nearly one thou- 
sand above the Atlantic tides. This must, however, 
be understood as the mean elevation, as the Ohio 
ridge rises gradually from south-west to north-east, 
and in north-western Pennsylvania, and south-wes- 
tern New York, is at least 1400 feet above the At- 
lantic level. 

The rivers of Erie are, without exception, ob- 
structed with bars at their mouths, affording, as I 
have said before, in no one instance, 8 feet water. A 
small group of islands, called the Bass islands, and 
situated near the south-western curve of this lake, 
has in one of the central islands a harbour, Put-in- 
Bay, with 12 feet water, which is the most easy of 

* Here occurs a remarkable instance of the great con- 
fusion of our geographical nomenclature. There is a 
Huron river rising in central Michigan, and which falls 
into lake St. Clair. A second Huron heads with the first, 
and flowing south-east enters lake Erie, at the western 
side of the mouth of Detroit river; and a third Huron rises 
in Crawford and Richland counties, Ohio, and crossing 
Huron county, flills into lake Erie. Is not this heaping 
dlflicnltv on confusion? 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 209 

access and deepest of its havens. Tlie rivers of 
Ohio and Michigan, and which flow into Erie, are 
also, beside the bars at their mouths, obstructed by 
falls and rapids. May not — or rather will not the 
time speedily arrive, when a line of canal will encir- 
cle the United States shore of Erie? But this sub- 
ject will meet a due notice under the heads of New 
York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. We resume our 
survey. 

A constant, and when calm, a very perceptible 
current sets down Erie, and with the prevalence of 
north-western and south-western winds, renders the 
up-lake navigation tedious, if not dangerous; forces 
the enormous volume of water into Niagara strait, 
and finally down that stupendous cataract, which 
forms one of the most attractive wonders of nature. 

We may relieve the tedium of a more intrinsically 
useful, but a less seductive description, by a particu- 
lar notice of the Falls of Niagara. I have visited 
this scene of elementary strife, and suppose my feel- 
ings nearly those which every mind must, more or 
less, indulge as it is approached. My first visit was 
near sun-set, of a fine calm evening, July 29th. 
Slowly, 1 heard the deep, long, and awful roar of the 
cataract. My mind, which for years had dwelt with 
anticipation upon this greatest of the world's traits, 
approached the scene with fearful solicitude; I be- 
held the permanent objects, the trees and the rocks; 
and I beheld also the passing clouds that momenta- 
rily flitted over the most interesting picture that na- 
ture ever painted, and exposed to the admiration of 
intelligent beings. But as darkness closed I retired, 
determined to return to the scene of real delight and 
behold its beauties amid the beams of a rising sun. 
But I could not for a moment abstract my mind 
from the object I had dimly seen, and in fancy con- 
ceived the beauties, the horrors, and the wonders, 
the coming morning would produce. 

That morning came; it was clear and serene. I 
s2 



210 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

liasted to the brow of the precipice. I expected 
much, and was not disappointed. The splendours 
of the scene burst at once on my view. The noise 
of the falling mass of waters is heard more and 
more distinct as the observer advances. 

I approached it from the New York shore, from 
which it is so obliquely seen as to destroy its 
best effects; but defective as was this my first dis- 
tinct view of Niagara, the perspective displayed 
beauties infinitely transcending any I had ever be- 
fore seen. The beams of morning glanced upon the 
curling volumes that rose from the abyss beneath. 
My eye sought the bottom of this awful gulf, and 
found in its bosom, darkness, gloom and indescribable 
tumult. My reflections dwelt upon this never end- 
ing conflict, this eternal march of the elements, and 
my very soul shrunk back upon itself. The shelving 
rock upon Avhich I stood, I felt actually trembling 
under my feet, and the irresistible flood before me 
seemed to present the pictured image of evanes- 
cence. The rock was yielding piece-meal to ruin, 
fragment after fragment were borae into the terri- 
l)le chasm beneath; and the very stream which hur- 
ried these broken morsels to destruction, was itself 
a monument of changing power. 

With some reluctance I retraced my steps to my 
lodgings, but soon after returned, and descend- 
ing the almost perpendicular bank of rocks, found 
myself under that tremendous FALL OF WATER, 
which even in mere defective description has ex- 
cited, and ever must excite, the admiration of culti- 
vated man. I crossed Niagara strait about 250 yards 
below the chute. The river was rufiled by the con- 
flict it had sustained above, but no real danger 
threatened the passenger. Perpendicular and rude- 
ly broken walls of rock rise on both banks, far above 
the fall, and raise their frowning precipices to the 
appalling height of between two and three hundred 
feet. The trees which fringe the upper selvedge of 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 2 1 i 

these mural banks, appear, when seen from below, 
like shrubs. I was completely drenched by the 
spray of the cataract; but the sublime - picture 
spread before my eyes was too impressive to admit 
reflection upon a momentary inconvenience. 

The river below the falls flows with considerable 
rapidity, but with less velocity and turbulence than 
I had anticipated. The opposing banks are strikingly 
similar; both being perpendicular, perhaps half the 
descent, and towards the base slopes extend, com- 
posed of the fragments which have been torn from 
their original position above. 

Most maps of Niagara are very defective; they 
represent the river above and below the falls as 
continuing very nearly the same course. This is so 
far from being the fact that the bend immediately at 
the ledge over which the water is precipitated forms 
an acute angle, the salient point projecting into 
Canada. The river above the falls, bears a little 
E. of N., and below turns to N. E., which course it 
continues about a mile, and thence inflects to a 
northern direction, which, with some partial curves, 
is preserved to lake Ontario. 

Between the lower extremity of Grand Isle and 
the mouth of Chippewa, the Niagara river is up- 
wards of a mile wide, but contracts rapidly as the 
inclination of the plane augments. As high as the 
mouth of Chippewa river, the banks are not greatly 
elevated above the water level, but apparently rise, 
advancing towards the chute. This change of rela- 
tive height is only a deception in vision, occasioned 
by the wear of the bed of the river. The general 
level of the country is preserved to Queenstown 
heights. 

Many contend that the best point of view is from 
Goat Island. Of this I am unable to speak from ex- 
perience, but judging from relative position, am in- 
clined to think that the table rock affords by far the 
most favourable view, combining the advantages of 



212 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

a profile and front perspective. The table rock I 
did not visit. The rapids above the main fail, are, 
however, little less worthy of attention than the fall 
itself, and can certainly be seen to much advantage 
from Goat Island. 

The rapids, particularly on the Canada side, af- 
ford a scene of sublimity and grandeur; tumbling 
over ledges of rock, many of which are 8 or 10 feet 
perpendicular descent. . These ledges are indeed 
productive of a series of cataracts, over which the 
irresistible volume rolls its terrific mass towards the 
still more awful scene below. Though more con- 
fined in width and quantity of water, the New York 
channel has also its appropriate beauties and attrac- 
tions to the traveller. Many small islands clothed 
with stunted cedars, stand between the main shore 
and Goat Island, round which the foaming surge 
dashes with endless rage. One of these islets hangs 
upon the brow of the falls, and produces a small 
middle sheet of ten or fifteen yards wide, rising in 
mimic majesty between the two gigantic torrents 
on each side. 

No adequate idea can be formed from description 
of this wonder of interior North America. Its pitch 
in feet,* its width, velocity, and consequent mass, 
can be determined with a near approach to 
accuracy; but the effect as a work of nature can only 
be produced from actual view. If the massy walls 
of rock, and the rapids above, are excepted, there 
is no other object near Niagara, that is striking in 
the scenery. It is left alone in simple and sublime 
dignity to impress upon the soul a sense of majestic 
grandeur, which loss of life or intellect can alone 

* If the following notice is correct, the pitch or direct 
fall of Niagara has hitherto been over-rated. " The per- 
pendicular height of Niagara Falls has been ascertained 
by accurate measurement, to be 158 feet 4 inches," — 
Philadelphia Sat. Eve Post, Sept. 29th, 1827. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 213 

obliterate, and the force of which no language can 
convey. If towering mountains and craggy rocks 
surrounded Niagara, I cannot believe but that much 
of its fine effect would be lost. As it is, it is an image 
whose whole contour is at once seen, and the view 
unbroken by extraneous objects. Even sound is sub- 
servient to the impression made upon the heart; 
none is heard, except the eternal roar of the cata- 
ract. I would have been rejoiced to have seen this 
place in a tempest. The whole time I was there, 
the weather though warm was clear, serene, and 
pleasant. Amid the howling of the black north- 
west wind, Niagara must have something of 
more than common interest. I am strongly inclined 
to believe that winter alone can give to the falls all 
its most appropriate attendant imagery. But, at all 
times, at all seasons, (and might I not say, by all 
minds?) will this matchless picture be viewed with 
wonder and delight, and remembered with feelings 
of pleasure. 

A few days after my return to the city of New 
York, from Niagara, I met with and read the 4th 
Canto of Childe Harold. It is a description of the 
cataract of Vellino. Words of fire ! made use of 
to paint an object, in itself no doubt worthy the 
mighty genius of the greatest modern poet; but an 
object, compared to which, Niagara is as a towering 
mountain beside a rose shrub. If Lord Byron had 
given intellectual existence to this grand effort of a 
master mind, under the very spray, in view of the 
emerald verge, and with his soul aroused to heaven 
by the sound of the waters of Niagara, his imagery 
would not have more vividly pourtrayed this scene, 
whose parts a poet alone can describe. 

*' The roar of waters! — from the headlong height, 
Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice; 
The fall of waters! rapid as the light, 
The flashing- mass foams shaking the abyss; 



214 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

The hell of waters ! where they howl and hiss, 
And boil in endless torture ^ while the sweat 
Of their great ag-ony, wrung out from this 
Their Phlegethon, curls round their rocks of jet. 
That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set, 

And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again 
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round 
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, 
Is an eternal April to the ground. 
Making it all one Emerald: — ^how profound 
The gulf ! and how the giant element 
From rock to rock leaps with dehrious bound. 
Crushing the chfFs, which downwards worn and rent, 
With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent 

To the broad column, which rolls on and shows 
More like the fountain of an infant sea 
Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes 
Of a NEW WORLD, than only thus to be 
Parent of rivers which flow gushingly 
With many windings through the vale : — Look back ! 
Lb! where it comes like an eternity 
As if to sweep down all things in its track, 
Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract. 

Horribly beautiful! but on the verge 
From side to side, beneath the glittering morn. 
An IRIS sits, amidst the infernal surge. 
Like HOPE upon a death bed, and unworn 
Its steady dies, while all around is torn 
By the distracted waters, bears serene 
Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn, 
Resembhng, 'mid the torture oftlie scene. 
Love watching madness Avith unalterable mien."* 



* This description of the cataract of Niagara, and quo- 
tation from the Childe Harold, vrere inserted in Darby's 
Toxir from New York to Detroit, and published 1819. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 215 

Only with this description, can be compared that 
of Charybdis by Homer : it cannot be presumption 
. to say it has no other equal in literature. Let any 
person of warm fancy read those lines in view of Ni- 
agara, on a fine summer morning, and whilst the Iris 
beams upon his eye, he will exclaim, "This is in- 
deed the language of wrapt poetry." 

The natural beauties around Niagara are not con- 
fined to the Falls and Rapids. From the heights 
above Queenstown, a prospect opens only second to 
the Falls themselves, though very distinct in char- 
acter. 

The wide sweeping alluvial plain of lake Ontario 
lies beneath, chequered with meadows and farms; 
the deep and impetuous strait issuing in its dark pro- 
found from the shelving rocks above the two towns 
of Lewistown and Queenstown; and far on the back 
ground, the ocean-like expanse of lake Ontario closes 
the perspective. 

It is when standing on the brow of these heights, 
that the fact becomes demonstrative, that here once 
dashed Niagara, mingling his foaming surge with 
the waves of Ontario. The rocky bed has yielded 
to the ever-rolling waters, and the cataract has re- 
tired to the deep and distant dell, where it now re- 
peats the thunders of ages, and continues its slow 
but certain march to Erie. Time was when Niaga- 
ra did not exist, and time will come when it will 
cease to be ! But to these mighty revolutions, the 
change of empire is, as the bursting bubble on the 
rippling pool, to the overwhelming volume that 
crushes the cliff of Niagara itself. Since this cata- 
ract fell where Queenstown now stands, have risen 
and fallen, Assyria and Babylon; Persia and Mace- 
donia; Carthage and Rome. The flood of northern 
barbarians issued forth from their native wilds, and 
in the storm of savage fury, profaned the tombs of 
the Fabii and the Scipios; and in the march of time, 
the polished sons of these mail-clad warriors, now 



216 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

seek, with religious veneration, the fragments of 
the statues which their forefathers broke; and 
whlis^this moral stream was flowing through the 
wide expanse of ages, has the Niagara continued its 
unceasing course. Roused from the slumber of a 
thousand years, the energies of the human mind 
sought another world, and reached America; and 
amid this new creation found Niagara. During the 
change of nations, religion, and language, this vast, 
this fearful cataract unceasingly pursued and pursues 
its slow and toilsome way. 

The vicinity of Niagara has in some measure be- 
come classic ground. The eventsof the last war be- 
tween Great Britain and the United States, have been 
rendered remarkable by some of these events which 
continue land-marks in history. The incipient 
grandeur of our navy, and the glorious termination 
of the contest, were events beyond rational hope. 
But on no other part of the theatre of this war, were 
the operations of the respective armies more san- 
guinary, nor the contest between rival battalions so 
obstinate as on the Niagara river. Perhaps to the 
numbers engaged, no battles were ever more obsti- 
nately contended, or victory more dearly bought, 
than were those of Queenstown, October 8th, 1814, 
in which Gen. Brock was killed; that of Chippewa, 
July 5th, 1814, and that of Bridgewater. There is 
no other scene, however, which the traveller visits 
which so little answers his anticipations as that of a 
field of battle. In the splendid accounts of fine po- 
sitions chosen, defended, or lost; the movements of 
armies, their shock, their victory, or their rout, we 
are apt to expect something uncommon in the sce- 
nery where such events happened, and as exciting 
high interest on review; but when seen, this illusion 
vanishes, and the eye finds only the common objects 
in nature to render conspicuous the theatre of the 
greatest battles. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 217 

But we now resume our geographical review of the 
St. Lawrence basin. The ridge, or more correctly 
slope down which Niagara is precipitated, commences 
in Upper Canada, towards Lake Huron, and is by- 
some supposed to be the same ledge which is conti- 
nued in the Manatoulin Islands. Extending south- 
eastward, it reaches and crosses Niagara river, en- 
ters the United States, and inflects to the eastward, 
forming the lower terrace of the middle sub-basin 
of St. Lawrence. By actual measurement, the sur- 
face of Lake Ontario is depressed below that of 
Erie, 334 feet. 

Ontario is itself the higher reservoir of the lower 
sub-basin of St. Lawrence; and passing from Erie 
basin to that of Ontario, a very marked change in 
the natural physiognomy of the country is percepti- 
ble. The confluents of Erie possess very little of 
the lake character, but the contrary is the case with 
those of Ontario, Genessee river excepted. The fol- 
lowing table will, however, exhibit in a condensed 
view the relative height of the two sub-basins. 

No XIII. — Table of the relative heights of the Lakes 
Superior I Huron, Michigan, Erie, Ontario, ts'c. 

FEET. 

Superior ..... 641 

Huron and Michigan , . . 600 

Erie . . . . , 565 

Ontario . . . . . 231 

Crooked Lake in Yates and Steuben counties. 

New York ^ . . . . 700 

Canandaigua Lake , , . 680 

Aqueduct at Rochester . . . 499 

Seneca Lake, at Geneva , . . 440 

Rome level ..... 420 
Seneca river, at Montezuma . . 371 

Cayuga Lake . . . . . 400 

Lake Champlain . , . 90^ 



218 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Before proceeding, however, to examine the more 
minute features, it may be necessary to sketch the 
outline of the lower sub-basin of St. Lawrence. 
This widely extended section of the continent of 
North America is composed of two very unequal in- 
clined planes. That of the right, or south-east, 
about 750 miles in length, does not exceed a mean 
width of 60 miles; but that of the north-west ex- 
tends over 900 miles in length, Vv^ith a mean width of 
270 nearly, with an area of 287,000 square miles. 

It is a circumstance of singular interest, that the 
course of St. Lawrence from its efflux from Lake 
Ontario, to its real mouth above the island of An- 
ticosti, is almost parallel to the general bearing of 
the opposite coast of the Atlantic ocean; and if the 
entire space from the north-west sources of the low- 
er sub-basin of St. Lawrence, to the Atlantic coast, 
is engrasped in one sweep of vision, the channel of 
that great river or strait, will form a line of very 
nearly equal division. 

The preceding data may serve to give the reader 
an idea of the immense extent of the St. Lawrence 
basin, and of the territory included in the Canadas, 
A very intelligent gentleman of Canada told me, in 
that country, that there was land within its limits 
sufficient for twenty millions ot inhabitants. He 
might have very safely doubled the estimate. 

Surveyed physically, and commencing with Ni- 
agara river, we have found a sudden depression of 
333 feet in 25 direct miles, from Lake Erie to Onta- 
rio. Following the southern shores of the latter up- 
wards of 70 miles, we find only small creeks, but at 
length arrive at the influx of a stream of some mag- 
nitude. This is the Genessee, rising on the table 
land of northern Pennsylvania, at N. lat. 41° 52^ at 
an elevation of at least 1200 feet, and flowing with a 
general bend westward, but inflecting again to the 
E. of N., having an entire course of 100 miles, and 
falling into Lake Ontario in nearly the long, of its 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 219 

sources, 0° 50' W. The sources of the Genessee are 
on the extreme southern part of the basin of Onta- 
rio. 

With the north-western sources of Susquehanna 
intervening, the valley of Genessee is followed by 
another of singular structure, that of Seneca, Onon- 
daga, Oswego, or Oneida. As I have a choice, I 
shall use the most ancient and most common appel- 
lation Oneida. 

The Oneida river is formed by two branches, that 
of the Oneida proper to the south-east, and the Se- 
neca south-west. Both these branches have gained 
intense interest from the route of the Erie canal pass- 
ing over their respective vallies, 

Oneida proper has its most remote source in 
Lewis county. New York, at 43" 40', in Fish creek, 
between the sources of Salmon and Black rivers. 
Flowing a Utile W. of S 35 miles. Fish creek re- 
ceives Wood creek from the east. The latter rises 
on the summit level between the Mohawk and Onei- 
da vallies, near Rome, in Oneida county. It is by 
the flat intervening plain between these two streams, 
and at an elevation 420 feet above the Atlantic 
ocean, that the Erie canal leaves the basin of the 
Hudson, and enters that of St. Lawrence. 

Immediately below their junction. Wood and Fish 
creek are merged in Oneida lake, a sheet of water 
20 miles in length, and with a mean width of 4 
miles. Into Oneida lake, beside the united waters 
of Wood and Fish creeks, are poured from the 
south-east, Oneida creek, and the united waters of 
Chittinengo and Canasarago creeks, with some of 
little note from the north. 

From the western angle of Oneida lake, its waters 
are again discharged in a river of the same name, 
which flowing by a very circuitous channel of 16 
miles, but in a direct distance west of about 8, unites 
with the Seneca, 



220 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEV^. 

The valley of the Seneca is peculiar in physical 
geography. If we recur to the notice already given 
of the position of the terrace which produces the Ni- 
agara Falls, and trace its range eastward, we shall 
find it following the general course of Lake Onta- 
rio, and we shall find it producing the falls of Ge- 
nessee, at Rochester, and again rising and winding 
eastward between the small creeks flowing into Lake 
Ontario, and the valley of Seneca, for about 60 
miles, until again broken by the Oneida river. 
Within this ridge of hills, is enclosed a valley, or 
minor basin, presenting peculiar features. East 
from Genessee river, about N. lat. 42° 45', a chain 
of lakes commences which individually range like 
radii, having the interior of Lake Ontario as their 
their centre. Canesus, Hemlock, Scancatica, Ho- 
neoye, Canandaigua, Crooked, Seneca, and Cayuga 
lakes, lie longitudinally from north to south nearly, 
but preserving a position approaching closely to 
right angle from the southern shore of Lake Onta- 
rio; those west of Seneca lake have a slight declina- 
tion from the meridian to N. E. and S. W. ; but with 
Seneca, this declination is reversed, and increases in 
Cayuga, Owasco, Skeneatelas, Ottisco, Onondaga, 
and Oneida, the latter extending W. of N. W. 

The relative elevation of the parts of Seneca 
valley is shewn in table 13, page 217. The summit le- 
velbetween the head of Seneca lake,and the Chemung 
branch of Susquehanna, at Newtown, is given in ta- 
ble 5, at 885 feet; and in table 13, we find Crooked 
lake elevated above the Atlantic ocean 700, and Ca- 
nandaigua lake, 685 feet. Consequently, the higher 
lakes of the Seneca valley are depressed only about 
200 feet below the summit level between the two 
great basins of St. Lawrence and Susquehanna. 
The lakes of Seneca valley, depress rapidly, advanc- 
ing to the N. E. down the stream; in so much that 
Cayuga level is 300 feet below that of Crooked lake, 
in a distance of ^5 miles. Montezuma on the outlet 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 221 

of Seneca and Cayuga united, and on Erie canal, lies 
329 feet below Crooked lake, and 140 above the sur- 
face of Lake Ontario. Crooked lake is elevated 
above Ontario 469 feet, though distant at the near- 
est points of approach only about 42 miles. 

From the preceding elements, it is demonstrated, 
that the Oneida basin, from Crooked lake to the 
mouth of Oneida river, has a descent of 469 feet, and 
from the general level of the north-east part of 
Steuben county, of more than 900, perhaps 1000 
feet. All the lakes which chequer the Seneca val- 
ley lie in deep chasms; the adjacent and intervening 
country rising steeply and to considerable elevation. 

It may again be noticed as illustrating the pecu- 
liar features of this region, that the Rome level is 
only 189 feet above the level of Ontario. I have not 
learned the relative height of Oneida lake, but as it 
lies below the summit at Rome, it does not, it is 
probable, rise 100 feet above the surface of Ontario, 

When treating on the topography of New York, 
the preceding data will be again noticed; but I can- 
not in this place dismiss the subject without some 
passing remarks. 

The climate along the shores of Erie and Ontario 
presents some phenomena which are very anomalous, 
unless due regard is had to the relative height of the 
adjacent country. In their entire length, from the 
mouth of Detroit river to Sackett's harbour. Lakes 
Erie and Ontario are bordered by an alluvial plain of 
more or less width, and differing slightly in eleva- 
tion above the surface of the respective lakes. From 
this extended alluvial line, the country rises in the 
state of Ohio, to 400 or 500 feet ; in Pennsylvania 
and New York, to perhaps 800 feet above Erie, and 
in its prolongation eastward to 1000 or 1200 feet 
above Ontario. 

To any person who has paid attention to the the- 
ory of atmospheric temperature, it will be at once 
evident, that along the whole southern side of St. 
t2 



222 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Lawrence basin, from the sources of Maumee, in 
Ohio, to those of Black river and the Mohawk, 
in New York, through 500 miles, the increase or 
decrease of temperature is inverse to the latitude. 
In vulgar estimation, the superior mildness of the 
winters along the lake shores, over that of the same 
season, 30 or 40 miles inland to the south w^ard, is ac- 
counted for from the agency of water, but the great 
difference of level, equivalent to more than two de- 
grees of latitude, is unknown or overlooked. Indeed 
there is no other phenomenon in physical geography, 
more capable of deceiving the most practised ob- 
server, than is the difference of level. Baron Hum- 
boldt remarks his astonishment, on finding, by a ba- 
rometrical operation, that Lima was between 500 
and 600 feet above Calao its port, though only six 
miles asunder, and apparently nearly on the same 
level. I have several times traversed the ground 
16 miles between Geneva and Canandaigua, and 
would never, certainly, have suspected, from the as- 
pect of the country, that the two lakes on which 
these two villages are situated, differed 240 feet in 
level. See table 13. 

I shall have another occasion also, to notice a fact 
which may seem at the first blush incredible; that 
is, that the city of Pittsburg h situated 235 feet 
above Lake Erie, though the sources of Alleghany 
river, one of the constituents of Ohio, at that city, 
rise within four miles from the margin of the lake. 
It is the accurate regard to such features, however, 
which makes the difference between the mere tra- 
veller and real obso-xier. 

On its northern side, Ontario receives but one in- 
let worthy of notice, the river Trent, entering near 
the head of St. Lawrence. This river, or rather 
chain of lakes, originates in the interior of Upper 
Canada, in an intricate series of shallow lakes; the 
general slope of which must amount to at least the 
difference of level, 387 feet, between Lake Huron 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 223 

and Lake Ontario. The chain of Trent lakes is 
again continued towards Machedash bay, of Lake 
Huron, by the name of Severn river. The acclivity 
of the northern shore of Ontario, must exceed that 
of the south. The dividing line of the waters of Hu- 
ron and Ontario, approaches to within twenty miles 
from the north-west margin of the latter. In long. 
2° W., however, the dividing curve is inflected to 
the north in the Trent valley, to about 55 miles from 
Lake Ontario, and separates the waters of the two 
lakes in Talbot portage, 80 miles a little E. of N. 
from York, in. Upper Canada. From the Talbot 
portage, the Trent lakes range 60 miles to the south- 
east, and contracting into a river, assume the name 
of Trent. By a bold sweep to the northward, and 
a vexy winding channel of 50 miles, the Trent is 
finally lost in the Bay of Quinte. This bay, and the 
shore's of Lake Ontario, enclose a, peninsula forming 
the county of Prince Edward. The Bay of Quinte 
is itself merely an enlargement and continuation of 
the Trent, which extending east 30, thence south 
15, and finally, north-east 20 miles, merges into Lake 
Ontario, 20 miles above the town and harbour of 
Kingston, and head of St. Lawrence river. 

A canal line has been proposed, by the Bay of 
Quinte, and the rivers Trent and Severn, from 
I^ake Ontario to Gloucester bay of Huron. Amongst 
the many artificial improvements of the natural navi- 
gable routes in the interior of N. America, few would 
be productive of more benefits than that we have 
noticed. Independent of more safety to life and pro- 
perty, on a line of canal transportation, over that in 
open and immense lakes such as Ontario, Erie, and 
Huron; there would, in the instance before us, be a 
saving of more than half the distance. It is, by the 
proposed canal route, not 300 miles from Kingston 
or Sackett's harbour into Huron; whilst by the 
lengthened navigation of the large lakes and con- 
necting straits, the distance exceeds 600 miles. It 



224 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

may, however, be borne in mind, that to effect a ca- 
nal line, a height must be overcome equal to the dif- 
ference of level between Huron and Ontario, or 387 
feet; but it is an improvement too obviously useful 
and practicable, to be longer neglected than what 
the slow increase of population and wealth will ren- 
der insuperable. An attempt is now in operation, 
and nearly completed by the Ouse, or Grand, 
and Welland, or Chippewa rivers, to form a canal 
from the north-east shore of Lake Erie, into the 
western part of Lake Ontario. This work called 
the Welland canal is intended to admit vessels of 
from 60 to 90 tons burthen;* a size of vessels equal to 
the draught of those built on Lake Erie; and which, 
when the canal is completed, will remove the Falls 
of Niagara as far as internal commerce is concerned. 
From the preceding elements, it is obvious, that 
Lake Ontario is the lower stage of an enormous 
chasm on the earth's surface. The rivers on every 
side pour into its bosom by rocky and precipitous 
channels ; and not one navigable to any considerable 
distance without interruption from rapids, or in most 
instances, direct falls. The last of those confluents 
we have to notice is Black river, the mouth of 
which forms Sackett's Harbour. This stream rises 
in Herkimer and Oneida countieS; New York, inter- 
locking sources with the Mohawk, West Canada, 
Fish creek, and Sacondago rivers. Flowing a little 
W. of N. 50 miles by a very impetuous current over 
Lewis county into Jefferson, turns abruptly to S. W, 
by W., 12 miles to Watertown, where it again in- 
flects to nearly west 12 miles to Sackett's Harbour; 
having an entire comparative course of 74 miles. 
The lower falls, 7 or 8 feet perpendicular, of Black 
river, is at Brownville, 8 miles by the channel above 

* Evidence of H. J. Bolton, Solicitor General of Upper 
Canada, before a Comrnittee of the House of Commons. 
Vide Nat. Intel. Nov. 4, 1826. No. 3980. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 225 

the harbour at Sackett's; the whole river may in- 
deed be considered as a series of falls^ which in less 
than 70 miles exceeds an aggregate depression of 
1000 feet. 

Another phenomenon which distinguishes Lake 
Ontario, is the convincing evidence of an abasement 
of its surface, afforded by its alluvial shores. Such 
evidence it may be conceded, however, exists around 
each of the other great lakes in the St, Lawrence 
basin, but in no other instance so strongly marked as 
it is along the margin of Ontario. This evidence 
goes far beyond the ordinary appearance of either 
ancient or recent alluvial deposits. 

" From near the Genessee river to Lewistown, on 
the Niagara river, there is a remarkable ridge or 
elevation of land, running almost the whole distance, 
which is 80 miles, and in a direction from east to 
west. Its general altitude above the neighbouring 
land, is 30 feet, and its width varies considerably; 
in some places it is not more than 40 yards. Its ele- 
vation above the level of Lake Ontario is, perhaps, 
160 feet, to which it descends by a gradual slope, and 
its distance from the water is between six and ten 
miles. There is every reason to believe, that this 
remarkable ridge was the ancient boundary of this 
great lake. The gravel with which it is covered, 
was deposited there by the waters, and the stones 
every where indicate, by their shape, the abrasion 
and agitation produced by that element. All along 
the borders of the western rivers and lakes there 
are small movinds, or heaps of gravel, of a conical 
form, erected by the fish for the protection of their 
spawn. These fish-banks are found at the foot of 
the ridge, on the side towards the lake; on the op- 
posite side none have been discovered. All rivers 
and streams which enter the lake from the south, 
have their mouths affected with sand in a peculiar 
way, from the prevalence and power of the north- 
westerly winds. The points of the creeks which 



226 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

pass through the ridge correspond exactly in ap- 
pearance with the entrance of the streams into the 
lake. These facts evince, beyond doubt, that Lake 
Ontario has receded from this elevated ground; and 
the cause of this retreat must be ascribed to its hav- 
ing enlarged its former outlets, or to its imprisoned 
waters (aided probably by an earthquake) forcing 
a passage down the present bed of the St. Law- 
rence."* 

Wherever I have myself examined the banks, 
shores, and alluvial plains near any of the lakes, but 
particularly those adjacent to Ontario, the correct- 
ness of Mr. Clinton's conclusions were to me mani- 
fest. When the surface of Lake Ontario stood at 
170 feet above its actual level, the Falls of Niagara 
did not exist! Whether this stupendous revolution 
was effected by sudden or slow change it is difficult 
to detei'mine; but it is probable that causes may 
have combined to produce great momentary altera- 
tion, and before or afterwards, the revolution com- 
pleted by slow abrasion. It would be an unprofita- 
ble, because an unsatisfactory, inquiry, to attempt 
fixing the time of the desechement or more correctly 
draining of this inland sea. 

The north-east part of Ontario is a congeries of 
islands, which is continued down the St. Lawrence 
about 50 miles. This part of the river is from 10 
to 2 miles wide, without much current, and known 
by the local name of " The Thousand Islands.'* 
The number actually amounts, if every naked little 
rock is taken into the list, to upwards of 1500. The 
peninsula of Prince Edward, and the small islets 
outside of Sackett's Harbour, are the higher emi- 
nences of this group, which thus extended into 
Lake Ontario, exceeds 100 miles in length. 

* De Witt Clinton, in Collections of the New York 
Historical Society; and Introductory Discourse to the 
Literary and Philosophical Society of New York, p. 52. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 227 

The small streams entering St. Lawrence on both 
sides of the Thousand Islands, serve by their 
courses to throw much light on the structure of this 
remarkable tract. Black river, which I have al- 
ready noticed, flows for the first 50 miles of its 
course directly towards the St. Lawrence, until 
within 20 miles of that great stream, when suddenly 
turning it enters Lake Ontario. 

Immediately below the valley of Black river fol- 
lows that of the Oswegatchie. The latter stream 
is composed of two branches, Oswegatchie proper, 
and Indian river. These two constituents of Oswe- 
gatchie rise in Lewis county, and flow to the 
north-west, parallel to each other and to the Black 
river of Lake Ontario, and again obeying the bend 
of the latter above Watertown, the three channels 
loop on each other like spoons; but the'two branches 
of the Oswegatchie, in place of continuing the lower 
course of Black river, turn upon their own courses 
by a very acute angle, and flowing a little E. of N. 
about 40 miles, unite 5 miles from the St. Lawrence, 
which they enter at Ogdensburg, 10 miles below 
the Thousand Islands. 

On the side of Canada the water courses are in- 
jected in a similar manner, though King's river and 
the outlet of Gananoquin lake flow S. S. W., and the 
Rideau branch of the Ottowas N. N. E. ; all fol- 
lowing, or nearly so, a parallelism to St. Lawrence. 
Like conformation of country is again shewn in the 
courses of Grass, Raquette, and St. Regis rivers, 
which drain Hamilton, Franklin, and St. Lawrence 
counties, New York, and enter St Lawrence river 
nearly together in N. lat. 45°, at St. Regis village, 
opposite Cornwall in Upper Q^nada, and at the 
head of Lake St. Francis. 

Thus for a distance of 110 miles from its efBux 
from Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence pursues a 
north-eastern course down one of a series of paral^ 
lei valleys, presenting in its own and the channels 



228 GEOGKAPHICAL VIEW. 

of its confluents a strong resemblance to similar 
phenomena in the middle sub-basin of the Hudson. 

Before quitting the great internal sea of Canada, 
and entering on a survey of the lower part of St. 
Lawrence basin, I deem it necessary to insert some 
comparative estimates. The Canadian sea has been 
very justly designated the most extensive repository 
of fresh water on the globe; but it is a great mis- 
take in relative geography to give Lake Superior 
the title of the American Caspian. I have shewn 
that the entire water surface of the Canadian sea 
covered f2,950 square miles. The Caspian, mea- 
sured on Herisson's and Arrowsmith's maps, covers 
an area of 124,000 square miles. Consequently the 
whole water surface of the Canadian sea compared 
with the Caspian is only as 73 to 124, or not much 
above one half: 

In one respect the inland seas of America and 
Asia are but too similar, if we except lake Ontario. 
The Caspian shores are very deficient in deep har- 
•bours, the water is shallow, and navigation difficult 
and dangerous. The mouths of the Ural, Wolga, 
Kur, Kizilozein, and Tredjend, are impeded with 
sand bars, and in some with rocks. In the Canadian 
sea, above the falls of Niagara, it is generally only 
in the rivers that safe anchorage can be found, and 
in many parts for great distances no kind of shelter 
is offered by the lake shores. In the natural laws 
of navigation, a shore is to the navigator in a storm 
either his haven of safety or gulf of destruction. 

There are many reasons to induce a belief that 
the Caspian is gradually diminishing ; several tra- 
vellers, and amongst others, the acute Pallas, have 
given that ophiion frypi actual observation. Mr. De 
Witt Clinton expressed to me the same opinion re- 
specting the Canadian sea ; an opinion in which I 
fully concur; but the diminution of the latter arises, 
it is probable, from a deepening of the channels of 
outlet, rather than from cA-aporation. Tlie evidence 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 229 

of the very great depression of the surface of lake 
Ontario has already been given; but the memoria, to 
prove depression of water surface, are by no means 
confined to the Canadian and Caspian basins. The 
parallel roads or lines, so minutely delineated in 
Brewster's Encyclopoeclia, and found so common in 
the vallies of Scotland, communicating with the 
great Caledonian glen, and like phenomena in the 
vallies along the Upper Rhone, are specifically si- 
milar to the natural road along the margin of the On- 
tario alluvion. The depression of the Baltic, at the 
rate of 3 5-6 feet in a century, is now a determined 
philosophical fact. 

Along bo|h sides of the Atlantic ocean, evidences 
too strong to be resisted, and too numerous and wide 
spread to remain unobserved, attest, that when or 
since the present order of things commenced on this 
planet, the surface of that vast mass of water stood 
several hundred feet above its present level. Time 
was therefore when neither the St Lawrence or the 
Bosphorus of Thrace, existed ; when the Appala- 
chian, the Alpine, and the Dopine systems were the 
nuclei of extensive islands, and when the Black, Cas- 
pian, and Baltic seas were united : and are we not 
warranted in the induction that this terrific process 
is still advancing ? I have already shown that an 
elevation of 90 feet would suffice to introduce the 
Atlantic tides into lake Champlain, and of 140 insu- 
late that part of North America, enclosed by the 
Atlantic ocean, and the St. Lawrence, Sorrel, and 
Hudson rivers. 231 feet v/ould force the ocean tides 
into lake Ontario, and would, on the opposite side of 
the Atlantic, reunite the Mediterranean with the 
Caspian sea, and Indian ocean; and would again join 
the Baltic with the Frozen ocean, and insulate the 
Scandinavian peninsula. 

Many of the consequences which naturally and 
certainly must flow from an actual diminution of 
oceanic VN^ater are repugnant to human fee]inc;s, but 



230 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

to deny what is true and contend for what is false, 
merely because our feelings are enlisted in the in- 
vestigation, is any thing but philosophy. If an order 
of things is approaching which will produce a great 
and expansive change in the physiognomy of the 
earth, our scepticism will not for a moment retard 
its accomplishment. 

The quantity of water discharged by the Canadian 
sea through Lake Ontario, is truly one of the most 
interesting problems in physical geography. No 
other river of this globe differs so much in the mass 
of contained fluid, and its annual expenditure, as the 
St. Lawrence. I have given in table 14, page 231, the 
water surface of St. Lawrence, and th^^ individual 
and aggregate superficies of its lakes, expressed in 
square miles ; and I may add, that the depth of the 
lakes is very unequal, and difficult to reduce to a 
mean. In such calculations minute accuracy cannot 
be expected ; I hope, therefore, that the reader will 
accept the following table as an approximation to an 
estimate of the mass of water contained in the St. 
Lawrence and its lakes. It appears from the united 
testimony of every person who has made the neces- 
saiy experiments, that lakes Superior, Huron, and 
Michigan, are vast and in some places unfathomable 
gulfs; that of all the great lakes, Erie is the most 
shallow, not exceeding a mean of 120 feet; and that 
Ontario varies from 450 to 534 feet. In order to 
be within the limits of reality, I have assumed a 
mean depth of 20 feet for all the surface contained 
in the last item of my estimate of 1500 square miles, 
for the superficies of St. Lav/rence river, and the 
smaller lakes. For the three upper lakes, Superior, 
Huron, and Michigan, I have assumed a mean depth 
of 900 feet.* 



* In one square mile tliere is 27,878,400 square feet, 
and on the curve superficies of the eartli, 196,797,200 
square miles, equal to 5,486,:>91,060,480,000 square lect. 



GEOGllAPHICAL VIEW. 



231 



No. XI\ 



. — Table of the quantity of 
the St. Lawrence ha 



Watei' contained in 
•asin. 



Solid contents in 
cubic feet. 


592,173,440,000,000 

476,720,640,000,000 

376,358,400,000,000 

26,863,626,240,000 

74,059,334,120,000 

836,352,000,000 


co^ 
cm" 

a> 

1—1 
o 


Superficial area 
in feet. 


669,081,600,000 
529,689,600,000 
418,176,000,000 
223,863,552,000 
150,543,360,000 
41,817,600,000 


o 
o 
o 

tH 

i^ 

i-T 
b- 

1— ( 

CO 
CO 

o 
c4^ 


Superficial area in 
square miles. 


o o o o o o 

O O O CO o o 
O O^ O^ O^ ^^ V) 

TjT oT vf co" io" T-T 

C^ iH tH 


i 


Mean depth, in 
feet. 


O O O C^ CJi c^ 






Superior, 

Huron, 

Michig-an, 

Erie, 

Ontario, 

St. Lawrence, &c. 





Those who have read the table of the quantity of 
water contained in the St. Lawrence basin, inserted 
in my travels from New York to Detroit, at pages 
89 and 90, will discover a discrepancy between the 



232 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

two results. The difference arose from my having, 
when compiling the enclosed table/ subjected the 
representation of the lakes of Canada to a more ri- 
gid admeasurement, and finding that, on the former 
occasion, I had overrated their aggregate area, and 
in some measure miscalculated their relative extent. 
Reduced as is the result, it certainly falls below 
reality, stupendous as may appear the amount: but 
assuming the cubic contents, shown by table 14, as 
the aqueous mass in St. Lawrence basin, the result 
may well appear astonishing ; it would form a cubic 
column of near 22 miles each side, or if spread round 
the earth equally on each side of the equator, at a 
depth of one foot, it would nearly cover the torrid 
zone, and would actually envelope the earth to up- 
wards of three inches in depth. In positive mass, 
it may be assumed on very solid grounds, that the 
St. Lawrence basin contains more than one half of 
all the fresh water on this planet. 

Another problem of great interest next presents 
itself for solution, that is the quantum of annual dis- 
charge, which, though very great, does not from the 
nature of the basin, bear a near proportion to the 
contained body of fluid. Three points presented 
themselves to me as suitable, from which to calcu- 
late the discharge: — First, opposite Black Rock 
in the Niagara strait : second at the head of Ogden's 
island: and third, at Point Iroquois, a few miles 
above the second. At all these places the whole 
volume is contracted to within less than half a mile 
wide, but flowing with great velocity. In estimating 
the mean discharge of rivers, a general mistake is 
prevalent to assume the upper current as that of the 
whole mass of water. Allowing the St. Lawrence 
to be three fourths of a mile wide at any of tlie 
places I have pointed out, and to flow three miles an 
hour, with a mean depth of 50 feet, the result would 
be that a transverse section of the river would con- 
tain 105,600 superficial feet, which multiplied by 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 233 

15,840, the lineal feet contained in three miles, would 
yield 1,672,704,000 cubic feet as the hourly dis- 
charge. This estimate exceeds by more than one- 
half the quantity which, on another occasion, I cal- 
culated for the Mississippi ; and, though contrary to 
my own opinion ^yhen I first arrived on the banks 
of the St. Lawrence, 1 am convinced falls below 
reality. 

The St. Lawrence is as uniform throughout the 
year in its diurnal or monthly expenditure, as is the 
Mississippi for its continual change. A rise of three 
feet is a more remarkable revolution in the former, 
than thirty would be in the latter river. Rising from 
the same vast table land, and having such an ex- 
tended line of interlocking sources, it is worthy of 
remark, that no two rivers on earth so essentially 
differ in their general features, as do the Mississippi 
and St. Lawrence. The former is turbid in many 
places even to muddiness ; the waters of the latter 
and of its lakes highly limpid. The channel of one 
river is chequered with innumerable lakes, some of 
which are of immense extent; whilst in the other no 
lakes of any note occur : annually, the Mississippi 
swells and overleaps its bed, overwhelming the adja- 
cent shores; a casual rise of three feet once or twice 
in any given 50 years, is considered a great rise of the 
waters of the St. Lawrence. The Mississippi, flow- 
ing from north to south, passes through a great variety 
of climes, whilst its rival, winding from its source in 
a south-east direction to near N. lat. 41°, turns gradu- 
ally to north-east, and again flows into its original 
climate of ice and snow. The Mississippi, before its 
final discharge into the gulf of Mexico, divides into 
a number of channels, having their separate egress ; 
the St. Lawrence imperceptibly expands to a wide 
bay, which ultimately opens into the gulf of the same 
name. The banks of the Mississippi, particularly 
near the mouth, present a level scarce rising above 
the superior or highest spring floods of that stream ; 
u 2 



534 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

those of the St. Lawrence generally slope from the 
river margin by an elegant acclivity; and when clear- 
ed from timber have the aspect of a most delight- 
ful basin. Much of the surface within the Missis- 
sippi basin are regions of open grassy plains, where 
few shrubs or trees break the dull monotony of the 
landscape; nearly the whole St. Lawrence basin, in 
a state of nature, is covered with a continuous and 
almost impervious forest. Such are the leading and 
contrasted features of these two great North Ame- 
rican rivers. 

Much more could be said on the subject of com- 
parison between those rivers, but the necessary bre- 
vity of this view sets a limit to our survey, beyond 
which we cannot pass, and must therefore proceed 
to examine the residue of the St. Lawrence basin. 
I may remark, that vast as is the amount of water 
contained in the St. Lawrence basin above the 
points at which my estimates were made, the acces- 
sion below those points is enormous. When the 
river issues from lake Ontario, the channel gradually 
becnmes narrower, 75 miles down to Point Iroquois. 
In this distance the current imperceptibly increases, 
but continues very gentle, 65 miles to the Galloupe 
islands, 5 miles below the mouth of Oswegatchie. 
With the Galloupe commence a series of rapids, 
which are but little interrupted to the head of lake 
St. Francis, immediately below N. lat. 45°. Here 
the river dilates into a lake of thirty miles in length, 
and from one to six miles wide. At the lower end 
of this lake the river again contracts into a narrow 
channel of 16 miles, very much interrupted with ra- 
pids, the principal of which at the Cedars, is very 
difficult and dangerous, but followed by lake St. 
Louis, a sheet of water sixteen miles by from one to 
seven or eight. 

At the head of lake St, Louis commences the 
island of Montreal, at the north-west angle of which 
the Ottawa joins the St, Lawrence from the north- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 235 

west. The Ottawas is one of the greatest branches 
of the St. Lawrence, rising in the mountains which 
wind north from lake Huron, at N. lat. 48°, and long. 
6° W. Its course is generally to the south-east, 
with an impetuous current, very much impeded 
by falls and rapids. Comparative length 450 miles. 
Like all the confluents of St. Lawrence from the 
north-west, the volume of the Ottawa is, compared 
to its length of course, immense. Settlements have 
been made for about 200 miles up this river, but at 
any considerable distance on either side of its chan- 
nel the country remains literally unknown, though 
as far as explored, the soil is excellent, and over- 
shadowed by a dense forest of very heavy timber. 

Such is the body of water in St. Lawrence, where 
its channels encircle Montreal and Jesus Islands, 
that the vast volume of tlie Ottawa makes no per- 
ceptible augmentation on the recipient, which pours 
round the islands over rapids of more or less de- 
scent. From the La Chine rapid about five miles 
above the city of Montreal, and on the same channel, 
a canal has been constructed, to pass the rapid and 
to meet ship navigation at that city. The port of 
Montreal is by the inflections of the stream 580 miles 
above the island of Anticosti, and yet thus high, ves- 
sels of six hundred tons can be navigated. 

The confluence of St. Lawrence and the Ottawa, 
is, perhaps, one of the most picturesque spots in the 
world. Besides some of minor note, three channels 
form the two large islands, Montreal and Isle Jesus, 
which unite at Bout de risle,orthe lower end of the 
two main islands. Below Montreal, though the fea- 
tures of the river and its banks undergo no very ra- 
pid change, yet, as a navigable stream, the introduc- 
tion of ships below Montreal gives a new and more 
interesting aspect to the scenery. 

Montreal is situated at N. lat. 45° 30', and at 
long. 3° 28' E. At the lower part of La Chine ra- 
pid, the river turns to a little E. of N., which course 



236 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

is continued 22 miles to Bout de I'lsle, where it 
bends to nearly N. E. 30 miles to the head of lake 
St. Peter, and entrance of Chambly river, from the 
south. Lake St. Peter is comparatively shaliow, 
only admitting vessels of 18 feet draught, and though 
what is usually called by that name, terminates 
about ten miles above by the contraction of the 
channel, it may be considered as continued to the 
head of tide water, at the town of Three Rivers, 
and mouth of St. Maurice river, from the north. 

The head of the tides in St. Lawrence is a re- 
markable point in the hydrography of North Ameri- 
ca, and demands particular notice in an elementary 
view. With the highest ascent of the tides, is at- 
tained nearly the level of the ocean, in vs^hich the 
tide wave originates; we may therefore consider the 
level of St. Lawrence immediately below the town 
of Three Rivers, as that of the Atlantic ocean. The 
following table will more clearly exhibit the 
relative distance from the head of tide water to 
Lake Ontario, and in a contrary direction^to the At- 
lantic ocean. 

No. XV. — Table of the stationary distances down 
the St. Lawrence^ from Kingston^ at the loiver 
extremity of Lake Ontario, to the mouth at the 
ivestern fioint of the island of Anticosti, 

Miles. 

Kings to the mouth of Gananoqui river 16 

Morristown on the New York, and Brock- 

ville, at the lower end of the Thousand 

Islands in Upper Canada, Leeds county 27 — 43 
Prescott, in Upper Canada, Grenville 

county 12 — 55 
Ogdensburg and mouth of Oswegatchie, 

St. Lawrence countv, New York 1 — 5C^ 

Galloupe Islands, or Red Mill 12—68 
Point Iroquois 5 — 73 



3- 


-76 


16- 


-92 


10- 


-102 


1- 


-103 


3- 


-106 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 237 

Miles. 

Hamilton, and island of Rapid Plat 

Head of Long Sault Rapids 

Narrows, at the lower end of Long Sault 

Rapids 
Mouth of Grass River 
Mouth of Racket River 
Mouth of St. Regis river, N. lat. 45°, St. 
Regis village, opposite Cornwall in Stor- 
mont county. Upper Canada, and head 
• of Lake St.' Francis 2—108 

Bodet river and limit, on the left bank of 
St. Lawrence, between Upper and Low- 
er Canada 18—126 
Lower end of Lake St. Francis 12 — 138 
Rapid of the Cedars, {Rafiides aux Cedres) 8—146 
Head of Lake St. Louis _ \ 4—150 
Lower end of Lake St, Louis, and village 

of La Chine 17—167 

City of Montreal 6—173 

Cape St. Michael, at Boute de I'Isle 15—190 

Mouth of Chambly river and head of Lake 

St. Peter 30—220 

Delta, at the mouths of Yamasseeand St. 
Francis rivers, the former from the 
south, and the latter from south-east 12 — 232 

Lower end of Lake St. Peter 16—248 

Town of Three Rivers, {Trois Rivieres^ 

and head' of tide water in St. Lav/rence 12 — 260 
From Three Rivers to the mouth of ri- 
ver Becancour, from the south-east 5 — 265 
Village of St. Anna, at the mouth of St. 

Anna river 20 — 285 

Richelieu Rapids 20—305 

Village of St. James C artier, at the mouth 

of St. James Cartier river 4—309 

Mouth of the Chaudiere 25—334 

Quebec 6 — 340 

Head of the island of Orleans 5-^345 



238 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 



Miles. 



River and Falls of Montmorenci, on the 

left shore 2—347 

Lower end of the island of Orleans 21 — 368 

L'Isle au Ccudre 27 — 395 

Mouth of Sagiienai river, from the left 55 — 450 

Betsiamitis river, from the left 70 — 520 

Breslard river, from the left 12 — 532 

Black river, from the left 10—542 

Cape Coribon, or Cosur Bon, on the left 50 — 592^ 

Head of the island of Anticosti 100 — 692' 

There is some difficulty in fixing on the real 
mouth bf St. Lawrence; the most natural to my own 
eye is the separation of the great straits above the 
island of Anticosti; and if that place be assumed as 
the mouth, then the tide ascends this channel 432 
miles, almost four times farther than into the Hud- 
son; and if the Amazon be excepted, the highest 
tide on earth. 

As in the Hudson, the tide in the St. Lawrence 
passes through a chain of primitive mountains, on a 
breach in which stands the city of Quebec. * As I 
have before observed respecting the primitive chain 
which forms the Thousand Islands, I repeat respect- 
ing that which traverses the same river near Que- 
bec, that the latter as well as former were once con- 



* Is it not the same chain which crosses the Hudson at 
the Highlands, and St. Lawrence at Quebec? If any 
conclusion can be safely drawn from analogy in the struc- 
ture and range of the Appalacliian system, this question 
must be answered affirmatively. From om' maps little 
aid can be obtained in that or any other problem in phy- 
sical geography. A real minute geological survey of 
the region enclosed by the Atlantic ocean, and the Hud- 
son and St. Lawrence rivers, would be a most invaluable 
addition to science. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIKW. 239 

tinuous, and confined the water above it, in a lake 
which must have been drained by one of those ope- 
rations of nature which impose lasting changes on 
the globe. 

" When this opening was made by the force of 
the included water, the land was laid bare on both 
sides of that river {St. Lawrence,) as far as St. Re- 
gis, including the islands of Montreal and Jesus; 
and by the same operation, the land on both sides of 
Lake Champlain, would be drained as far as Ti- 
conderoga and Whitehall." — JDi\ S. L. MitchelVs 
JVotes on Cuvier's Theory of the Earth, p. 391. 

The ancient lake could not have been bounded by 
any limit near St. Regis. At that village there ex- 
ists no land of any considerable elevation above the 
present level of the water, much less, sufficient to 
cover Montreal island, or connect Lake Champlain 
on a similar height v/ith the supposed larger lake 
above Quebec. No current of any consequence ex- 
ists in St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario to the lower 
extremity of the Thousand Islands, consequently 
the actual depression of that river commences be- 
low the latter, near Ogdensburgh. By recurrence 
to table 15, it will be seen that the lower extremity 
of the Thousand Islands is forty-three miles below 
Kingston, and therefore, two hundred and sixty, 
less forty-three, or 217 miles is the distance in which 
the water of St. Lawrence falls 231 feet There- 
fore if any impediment of that height was raised at 
Quebec, and the decumbent waters were confined 
on both sides by barriers of sufficient elevation, the 
accumulated water would stand level to the mouth 
of Niagara strait; but it has been shewn that the 
Hudson and Champlain summit level was only 140 
feet above the ocean level, consequently if a rock 
barrier ever existed at Quebec, to upwards of 140 
feet, the St. Lawrence waters passed down the 
Hudson. 

I have suggested the probability of a depression 



240 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

in the surface of the Atlantic ocean. If such a re- 
volution is admitted, many of the difficulties in the 
physical geography of the continent of North Ame- 
rica will be removed. Is it not probable, that when 
the margin of the ocean stood at the base of the Ap- 
palachian chain. New England, New Brunswick, 
and the south-east part of Lower Canada, were 
insulated; and that as the ocean gradually retired, 
cataracts were produced over the exposed rock bar- 
riers? In such a process the outer barrier must 
yield first, for the plain reason, that until it did in 
part yield, the more interior barriers would remain 
submerged. It is therefore probable that the Que- 
bec barrier was broken by a cataract, which finally 
became removed, and succeeded by another, which 
in turn sunk before the abrading water and ice. 
When the second granitic chain was broken, a de- 
pression in the depth and great contraction in the 
extent of Lake Ontario took place. It appears from 
the phenomena exhibited by most rivers, that schis- 
tose secondary yields more slowly to the action of 
water, than do primitive rocks, though the latter 
are more solid in their texture than the former. A 
body of water, and even masses of ice, glide smooth- 
ly over horizontal slate, without producing much 
effect ; primitive rocks, on the contrary, by their 
fractured surface, oppose points of contact to the 
moving fluid or ice, which tears away the resisting 
fragments, and in the lapse of time produces an un- 
interrupted channel. 

Below the Thousand Islands, the -rapids of St. 
Lawrence commence, at the Galloupe islands, and 
occur at unequal distances to the Richelieu rapids, 
45 miles below the head of tide water, or through 
237 miles. It is in a high degree interesting, that 
the lower rapids are produced by the tides. When 
the ocean swell is at the full, Richelieu rapids dis- 
appear; but as the tides rise there from 17 to 24 
feet, the ebb exposes the rocks. Should tlie sur- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. , 241 

face of the Atlantic continue to depress, the time 
will arrive when Richelieu rapids will have a similar 
aspect to those at the Galloupe islands, Long Sault, 
the Cedars, and La Chine. 

The breadth, strength, and texture, of the com- 
posing materials in the bed of the St. Lawrence, 
render a farther depression of Lake Ontario the 
work of unlimited ages; and compared with the pe- 
riods in human history, the present order of things 
in that channel may be viewed as permanent. No 
earthquake short of a convulsion which would shake 
and disrupt the planet to its centre, could remove 
such enormous masses. I have long indulged an 
opinion, however, that the accidental agency of 
earthquakes and volcanoes, had been over-rated, 
whilst the slow, but constant action of water has met 
with too little attention from philosophers and natu- 
ralists. 

We shall close this part of our subject by some 
remarks on the particular valley of Lake Cham- 
plain and Chambly river. The latter is humble in 
respect to length of course, but is in many other es- 
sentials the most important confluent of St. Law- 
rence. Lake Champlain valley, if taken in its full 
extent, is occupied by two unequal sub-basins; that 
of Lake George, and that of Champlain proper, the 
former nearly 200 feet above the latter. 

Lake George is a sheet of water lying in an appa- 
rent rent between the adjacent mountains, extending 
from S. S. W. to N. N. E. 34 miles, with a width 
from one to three miles, discharging its waters into 
Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga. The upper Hud- 
son winds so completely round lake George as to 
prevent the latter from receiving even a large creek. 
Lake Champlain, on the contrary, is the recipient 
of several rivers of some comparative magnitude. 
This fine sheet of water forms a part of the great 
North American Glen, and stretches in a direction 
very nearly from south to north, and from N. lat. 



242 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

43° 30', to 45° 04', or through 109 miles. The 
breadth varies from half a mile to twelve miles. 
The depth, similar to the higher and longer lakes of, 
St. Lawrence basin, is in many places prodigious. 
It is in reality the lower plateau of a deep vale. 
The rivers Poulteney, Otter, Onion, La Moelle, and 
Missisque, all rise in the central valley of Vermont, 
and in their progress into the eastern side of Lake 
Champlain, pierce the Green Mountain chain, fall- 
ing in their courses of from 40 to 60 miles, perhaps 
from 500 to 1000 feet. Similar remarks again ap- 
ply to the Riviere au Sable, Saranac, and Chazy, 
which enter the western side of the lake, also from 
a mountainous region. 

The fact that the surface of Lake Champlain was 
only 90, and the summit level between it and the 
Hudson only 140 feet, has been stated. The an- 
cient union with the Hudson has been restored by 
human genius and labour, and only a fall of 90 feet 
is to be overcome to connect its bosom with the St, 
I^awrence tides by a canal down its outlet, the Sor- 
rel or Chambly. The latter leaves the lake almost 
exactly on N. lat. 45°, and enters St. Lawrence at 
the head of lake St. Peter, at N. lat. 46° 03', having 
a northern course of 70 miles. Nearly at midcourse 
this stream flows v\^ithin 13 miles from the St. Law- 
rence, at Montreal, and in its farther course ap- 
proaches its recipient by an acute angle. Very lit- 
tle farther labour will be necessary to complete an 
uninterrupted commercial connexion between this 
beautiful valley and the two great channels of Hud- 
son and St. Lawrence, and leave to the inhabitants 
of the basin the choice of marts. 

But with Champlain basin, advancing to the N. 
E., facility of constructing artificial channels of na- 
vigation, terminates. The river St. Francis, which 
rises also in the Appalachian valleys, far within 
Vermont on one side, and on the borders of Connec- 
ticut on the other, draws its remote sources from an 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 243 

elevated table land, and thougli disembogueing into 
Lake St. Peter,, near the outlet of the Chambly, 
offers very different navigable features. The river 
St. Francis is formed by two branches, the St. Fran- 
cis proper, and the outlet of Lake Memphramagog. 
St. Francis rises in Wolestown, Colerain, and Garth- 
ly townships. Lower Canada, in a series of lakes, 
which discharge to the S. W. and continue in that 
course 60 miles to the point of confluence with the 
outlet of Lake Memphramagog. 

The latter has its sources in Essex and Orleans 
counties of Vermont, in a number of creeks which 
unite in the northern part of the latter, and flowing 
into Lake Memphramagog, enter LoAver Canada 
between Potton and Stanstead. This lake is a nar- 
row, but extremely picturesque sheet of water, 23 
miles in length, from which an outlet of 17 miles 
unites with St. Francis. The entire length of the 
valley of Memphramagog, is about 60 miles, extend- 
ing from N. E. to S. W. with a slope in direct oppo- 
sition to the St. Francis, though like an indefinite 
number of other streams in the Appalachian sys- 
tem, which are mutual confluents, the current of the 
two foregoing are in opposite directions towards 
each other, and when uniting, turning at nearly 
right angles to their common valley. This is the 
case in the present instance; the St. Francis, after 
the confluence of its two main branches, bends to 
N. W., and pursuing that course 70 miles into Lake 
St. Peter, 12 or 13 miles N. E. by E. from the mouth 
of the Chambly, having an entire course by either 
branch of 130 miles, spreading over an area of about 
5000 square miles. 

Few if any of the other small rivers of the Unit- 
ed States or Canada, have a more rapid descent ; 
the higher sources of Lake Memphramagog, in the 
central valley of Vermont, and perhaps also those 
of Lake St. Francis, rise on an elevated table land, 
of at least 1000 feet above the level of the Atlantic 



244 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

ocean. Here again we have another instance of the 
apparent anomaly of climate, in the St. Lawrence 
basin. The seasons are much milder on the shores 
of Lake Champlain, and even on Lake St, Francis, 
than on the elevated region from which flow in op- 
posite directions, the sources of Kennebec, Connec- 
ticut, St. Francis, and Chaudiere rivers. The causes 
of a difference of temperature, inverse to the latitude, 
must be obvious from principles repeatedly laid 
down in this view. 

The Chaudiere, the last stream entering St. Law- 
rence from the right which merits specific notice, is 
a most impetuous mountain torrent; the richly va- 
ried, wild, and romantic scenery of whose banks has 
excited the admiration of every cultivated mind 
who has passed along its valley. It is also a classic 
stream in the history of the LTnited States; as by 
its banks. General Arnold conducted, early in the 
revolutionary war, and amid all the rigors of an Al- 
pine winter, a part of that army whose operations 
in Canada seem to partake of the hue of romance^ 
whilst entitled to the truth of history. 

The Chaudiere rises by a creek flowing north in- 
to Lake Megantic, and Riviere du Loup, interlock- 
ing sources Avith the St. Francis, Connecticut, An- 
droscoggin, Kennebec, Penobscot, and St. John's. 
With an elliptic curve to the east, but a general 
northern course of 100 miles, it falls into St, Law- 
rence 6 miles above Quebec. 

Geographically the Chaudiere valley stretches 
from K. lat. 45 '^ 25' to N. lat, 46^ 44', with long. 6° 
E, ranging over it longitudinally. It will not be 
necessary to repeat observations already made re- 
specting the effect of climate on a tract of such ra- 
pid descent as the valley of the Chaudiere. I may 
merely observe, that independeiit of mountain ridg- 
es, it is probable that the table land from which the 
Connecticut and Chaudiere and neighbouring rivers 
have their sources, is the most elevated in the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 245 

United States, and if so, must exceed 2000 feet, or 
an elevation equivalent to five degrees of lat. It 
cannot, or it ought not, therefore, to excite surprise, 
to find the winters of upper Connecticut, and Maine, 
more rigorous than on the tide level of St. Law- 
rence, a degree of lat. more northward. 

Below the Chaudiere, the right slope of St, Law- 
rence narrows rapidly, and about 120 miles below 
Quebec, or nearly opposite the mouth of Saguenai, 
is not above ten miles wide from the banks of the 
St. Lawrence to the northern sources of St. John's. 
Advancing still farther down the basin, its right 
slope widens, but never again spreads to 40 miles 
in breadth, and finally terminates at N. lat. 49*^ 12', 
and long. 12"^ 40' E. 

We may close our protracted view of the St. 
Lawrence basin by a brief survey of that part of 
the northern slope below the valley of the Ottawas, 
This extensive and imperfectly known region com- 
prises a space of upwards of 700 miles from N. E. 
to S. W., with a mean width of at least 250 miles; 
area exceeding 175,000 square miles. As far as any 
dependence can be placed in our maps and on geo- 
graphical analogy, the rivers of this tract exhibit in 
a very striking manner the lake character, and in 
proportion to length of course pour down into their 
recipient enormous volumes of water, flowing with 
excessive velocity. The principal of these rivers 
are St. Maurice above Quebec; and Saguenai, Bet- 
siamitis, Breslard, and Black river, below that 
city. 

The following account of the Saguenai, extracted 
from Bouchette's Canada, page 563-566, may serve 
to exhibit the character of the rivers of this rapidly 
inclining plain. I may premise that the respecta- 
bility of Mr. Bouchette, and his ample means of cor- 
rect information, preclude any suspicion of undue 
warmth of description. 

" The river Saguenai, which discharges itself into 
x2 



246 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

the St. Lawrence, at Pointe aux Allouettes^ is the 
largest of all the streams that pay their tribute to 
the Great river. It draws its source from Lake St. 
John, a collection of water of considerable expanse, 
lying in N. lat. 48° 20', long. 72° 30' W., (W. C. 
between 4*^ and 5° E.) receiving many large rivers, 
that flow from the north and north-west, from an 
immense distance in the interior, of which, the Pie- 
cougamis, the Sable, and Pariboaca are the princi- 
pal. At its eastern extremity, {Lake St. John)^ 
two large streams, one called the Great Discharge, 
and the other the Kinogami, or Land river, issue 
from it; which after flowing about 57 miles, and en- 
compassing a tract of land of the mean breadth of 
12 miles, unite their waters, and become the irre- 
sistible SAGUENAI; from which point it contin- 
ues its course in an easterly direction for about 100 
miles down to the St. Lawrence. The banks of this 
river throughout its course are very rocky and im- 
mensely high, varying from 170 even to 340 yards 
above the stream- Its current is broad, deep, and 
uncommonly vehement. In some places where pre- 
cipices intervene, there are falls from fifty to sixty 
feet in height, down which the whole volume of the 
stream rushes with indescribable fury and tremen- 
dous noise. The general breadth of the river is 
from two miles and a half to three miles, but at its 
mouth the distance is contracted to about one mile. 
The depth of this enormous stream is also extraor- 
dinary. At its discharge, attempts have been made 
to find its bottom with 500 fathoms of line {oOOO feel) 
but without effect; about two miles higher up, it has 
been repeatedly sounded, from 130 to 140 fathoms; 
and from 60 to 70 miles from the St. Lawrence, its 
depth is found from 50 to 60 fathoms. The course 
of the river, notwithstanding its magnitude, is very 
sinuous, owing to many projecting points from each 
shore. The tide runs about 70 miles up it, and upon 
account of the obstructions occasioned by the nu- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 247 

nierous promontories, the ebb is much later than in 
the St. Lawrence; in consequence of which, at low 
water in the latter, the force of the descending 
stream of the Saguenai is felt for several miles. 

"Just within the mouth of the river, opposite to 
Pointe aux Allouettes, is the harbour of Tadousac, 
which is very well sheltered by the surrounding 
high lands, and has good anchorage for a great num- 
ber of vessels of large size, where they may lie in 
perfect safety," 

From the little that is distinctly known respect- 
ing the Betsiamitis, Breslard, and Black rivers, 
their features are strongly similar to those of Sague- 
nai; but except near trading stations, and along the 
main streams, the rivers and lakes, and country they 
drain, towards Labrador continue a Terra Incog- 
nita. The great elevation, and an advance nortli- 
ward to 52° of lat., render the climate of those 
regions severely and permanently cold in v/inter. 
The highest civilized agricultural settlement that I 
have been made acquainted with on the continent of 
North America is that of Mingan, along the north- 
ern shore of St. Lawrence, opposite the island of 
Anticosti, and between N. lat. 50° and 51°. In. all" 
the immense interior tract of 1200 miles in length, 
equal to the distance from Maine to Georgia, or 
from the western coast of France to the sources of 
the Dnieper, all is yet silence and barbarism; but 
let it not be understood that these interminable re- 
gions are naturally sterile; for the fact is the con- 
trary, and the day is rapidly advancing when sci- 
ence and civilization will take place of wilds and 
desolation. Let it be remembered that no unfavour- 
able opinion is laeld respecting the soil and climate 
of Canada, but was once prevalent concerning simi- 
lar objects in the United States. 

We have thus passed cursorily over the great 
features of this very peculiar basin, and we may now 
in few words conclude our survey by a general sura- 



248 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

mary. As a basin of inland commerce, it maj^ be 
truly asserted that the St. Lawrence stands alone 
on the globe. The sublime and boldly sketched 
features of that vast and unequalled assemblage of 
fresh water lakes demand more than ordinary atten- 
tion from the geographer and statistical enquirer. 
In its main channel, that of the St. Lawrence, we 
have found the ocean tides penetrating to 432 miles, 
or about midway between Quebec and Montreal^ 
Above tide water to Ogdensburg, the channel is 
much impeded by shoals and rapids, but in no place 
actually impassable with vessels, either ascending 
or descending. Ships of the line, of the first class, 
are navigated to Quebec, and those of 600 tons to 
Montreal, upwards of 500 miles from the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence. 

But again passing from St. Lawrence we merge 
into an inland sea, already rendered classical from 
contending fleets. At the lower extremity of the 
first expanse of that central sea, Ontario, two har- 
bours present their deep recesses to the most un- 
wieldy vessels of war; these are Kingston and Sack- 
ett's. Beyond those spacious havens the harbours 
of the Canadian sea are generally shallow, but no 
region of the earth presents such varied, contrasted, 
and peculiar scenery. Even the mighty Niagara is 
but the principal object of interest on this expanded 
canvass. Without ascending above Buffaloe, it may 
be doubted whether any other equal distance can 
afford more to arrest the admiration of the traveller 
than the space from Lake Erie to the city of Que- 
bec. 

Than the Thousand Islands, a scene can no where 
be found more savage, rude, and wild. The placid 
and limpid water reflects the broken rocks, and the 
few trees and shrubs which rise amid the fissures of 
their fractured ruins. No human habitation appears 
to enliven for an instant this picture of eternal waste; 
but passing this scene of silent and magnificent de- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 249 

solation, a fairy land seems to open. Where the 
Thousand Islands terminate at Brockville, the river 
dilates into a small bay, and farther down slowly 
contracts; the shore on both sides rising by a regu- 
lar and gentle acclivity, exposes a landscape which 
for placid beauty cannot be excelled. This is the 
general character of the main banks until far below 
Montreal. Four miles below Ogdensburg a group 
of islands, the Galloupe, commences, but with a 
physiognomy entirely distinct from the naked rocks 
of the Thousand Islands. The Galloupe cluster ex- 
ceeds thirty in number, and lying with every incli- 
nation to the general course of the river, and vary- 
ing in size from 1^ miles to 20 yards in length; almost 
all of an elliptical form, and rising from, the water 
by a globular swell. In the bland air of a Canadian 
summer evening the imagination can scarcely con- 
ceive any spots more delightful than those isles. 
On many which have been formerly cleared of tim- 
ber and again overgrown with ash, linden, wild 
cherry, and aspen trees ^vithout underwood, it is a 
real recreation to contemplate the enchanting pros- 
pect, the cultivated shores, the floating barks, and 
the majestic river whose overpowering volume is 
spread around. 

Proceeding downwards a constant succession of 
natural objects meet the traveller's eye; objects 
' commensurate in their outline to the scale of the ba- 
sin in which they are placed. 

Below Montreal, the country adjacent to the river 
becomes less elevated, and of course the scenery 
less bold and striking, and this character of coast 
continues to near the head of the tides at the mouth 
of St. Maurice; but, here again the banks resume 
all their varied splendour of contrasted beauty, and 
rise on both sides to the height of Cape Diamond, 
on which Quebec is placed. "At this capital of the 
province," says Bouchette, "there is a most excel- 
lent port and a capacious basin, wherein the great- 



250 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

est depth of water is 28 fathoms, with a tide rising 
from 17 to 18 feet, and at the springs from 23 to 24 
feet. From whence, and from Point Levi on the 
south shore, one of the most striking panoramic 
views, perhaps, in the whole world, offers itself to 
notice. The assemblage of objects is so grand, and 
though naturally, yet appear so artificially contrast- 
ed with each other, that they mingle surprise with 
the gratification of every beholder. The Capital on 
the summit of the cape, the river St. Charles flow- 
ing for a great distance through a valley abounding 
in natural beauties, the falls of Montmorenci, the 
island of Orleans, and the well cultivated settle- 
ments on all sides, form together a coufi d'ceil that 
might enter into competition with the most roman- 
tic." 

This grandeur in the face of nature remains undi- 
minished if not increased below Quebec. At Riviere 
du Sad, 30 miles lower than the capital, the river is 
1 1 miles wide, and the white churches, hamlets, vil- 
lages, and farms, protruded on the vision by the 
dark and thick woods, and the strongly defined 
back-ground of lofty mountains, maintain the pre- 
eminence of landscape along the St. Lawrence. 

It is not, however, in summer alone, or in autumn, 
that the St. Lawrence basin can be seen to most ad- 
vantage. In all the rigors of a Canadian winter, when 
the capacious bosom of most of its rivers are turned 
into solid and glassy roads, and in the vicinity of 
Quebec this change is annual, then the more intense 
and continued the frost, the more pertinaciously do 
the inhal)itants boast of their season of business, 
amusement, and pleasure. If frost and snow do not 
altogether compensate to the Canadian the open 
navigation of summer, the long and unbroken frozen 
surface of Lower Canada, renders winter in that 
country certainly preferable to the same season in 
the middle states of the United States, and the 
southern part of Upper Canada, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW= J5 1 

Excessive tides prevent the St. Lawrence ever 
becoming covered with CDmpact ice, below Quebec, 
but such are the enormcus masses driven in every 
direction by the winds aid currents, that the river 
is utterly unnavigable nearly half the year. It is 
then amid snow and ice that gliding vehicles supply 
the place of sails, oars, tnd wheels, and the smooth 
faces of the streams are :ransformed into most excel- 
lent roads, and the Caradian, shut from the ocean, 
performs his rapid journey of business or social in- 
tercourse. 

In fine, at any season of the year, if taken as a 
whole, I cannot conceive of a more pleasing region 
than the St, Lawrence basin; nor of any part of the 
earth where nature has engrouped more to gratify 
the traveller or the natural philosopher, — and I 
might say the statesman, for here is a powerful na- 
tion in its cradle. 



252 



GEOGRAPHIQAL VIEW. 



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258 



CHAPTER VIII. "^^. 

GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE RIVER BASINS OF 
THE UNITED STATES, CONTIGUOUS TO THE 
DELTA OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

Widely extended as are the united regions included 
in the Atlantic slope of North America, and the ba- 
sin of St. Lawrence, we now enter on another basin, 
that of the Mississippi, more extensive than the two 
former taken together. I have already shewn that 
the Mississippi and its confluents present features 
so totally different that nothing but contrast can be 
drawn between them and the St. Lawrence. In 
passing from one basin to the other a new world 
opens to the traveller; the face of nature is changed; 
the objects are distinct in species, almost in genera, 
and it is difficult to conceive ourselves on the same 
continent, and on a region contiguous to that from 
which we have departed. 

In respect to the distinctive feature of lakes so 
immense in one basin, and almost unknown in the 
other, it may not be irrelevant to observe that we 
are sometimes deceived by too greatly restricting 
terms. '* Before reaching Montreal," says Mr. 
Bouchette, when speaking of the St. I^awrence, 
"the lakes St. Francis, St. Louis, and des Mon- 
tagues, present themselves; they do not admit of 
comparison with those already noticed, and can, in- 
deed, only be considered as so many widenings of 
the river." ^0i 

To this it may be replied, that if the first springs 
which afterwards form the rivers west of Lake Su- 
perior are taken into the account, then is th^i great 



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GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 259 

body of water itself only a dilatation of the channel, 
as' the streams are aggregated in descending from 
their original source. Lakes Huron, Erie, Michigan, 
and. Ontario, and even Lake Superior, differ in 
nothing but extent, comparatively, from those of 
Sfr: Francis and St. Louis in the St. Lawrence; from 
Lakes George and Champlain in the Richelieu; 
from Cassina and Pepin in the Mississippi; or from 
Lake Leman in the Rhone. The smallest brook 
presents all the features of the largest river. Where 
the plain hap too little declination to admit direct 
descent, a pond or lake is formed; and again, where 
the descent becomes rapid, a flowing stream is the 
effecL and an effect in direct excess in proportion to 
the slctual declination of the plain. 

From such simple principles arise all the variety 
of feature conceivable, from the smallest pool to 
the expanded besom of Lake Superior^*nd from 
the slowest perceptible current to the m^ impetu- 
ous cataract. On these sound data depends the phi- 
losophy of rivers. Closely examined, all streams, 
whatever may be their size, will be found composed 
of chains, whose links are themselves alternately 
lakes and cataracts, but it is the excess in the dila- 
tions of the St. Lawrence, and their moderate ex- 
tent in the Mississippi, which so strongly contrast 
those two great rivers. ^ 

On true geographical principles, the Mississippi 
basin, vast as it is, can only be considered as a sec- 
tion of that system of rivers which fiov/ into the Gulf 
of Mexico, and regard chat inland sea as their com- 
mon recipient. It is very remarkable that if every 
stream, great and small, which enters this gulf, 
from Cape Sable of Florida to Point Gorda of Yu- 
catan, were supposed to be continued in the line of 
their course, they would unite with each other in a 
common estuary, not far outside of the centre of the 
gulf. But from the great superiority in quantity of 
water and of surface drained by the Mississippi, 



260 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

that river well deserves to give name to the system 
of which it forms so conspicuous a part. I, there 
fore, in proceeding to sketch the great central ba- 
sin, include with the Mississippi those minor rivers 
which enter the Gulf of Mexico in the U'litea 
States. 

If we examine a map of North America, we at 
once perceive that the great basin of the Mississippi 
is really only a part of a much more extensive de- 
pression, which has its oceanic termination S. in the 
Gulf of Mexico, and N. in Hudson's bay. This great 
central valley of the continent rises from the actual 
channel of the lower Mississippi by two unequal in- 
clined planes ; the eastern plane, having its highest 
line of elevation in the dividing ridge between the 
Atlantic and Mississippi sources; whilst on the west, 
the opposing plane rises by a much slower acclivity 
to the line of separation between the western conflu- 
ents of the Mississippi and those of the Pacijfic ocean. 

The Appalachian system does not constitute the 
dividing ridge between the rivers which flow from 
or towards its vallies ; and, from what we actually 
know concerning the Chippewa.yan system, there 
are strong reasons to believe that similar to the Ap- 
palachian, the range of the chains of the former is 
oblique to that of its river vallies. 

When treating of the St. Lawrence basin, it has 
been seen that no particular elevation of either moun- 
tain or hills, serves to form a demarcation between 
its southern sources and those of the Mississippi ; on 
the contrary, the waters of southern Michigan are 
at some seasons nearly on a level, and mingle with 
those of Illinois, floM'ing into the Mississippi. The 
preceding remark may be farther extended, and 
applied to the immense inflected line, of upwards of 
two thousand miles, from the sources of the Susque- 
hanna, Genessee, and Allegany, to those of Saskasa- 
win of Hudson's bay, Maria's river of Missouri, and 
Clark's river of Columbia. The latter line may be 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 261 

considered as that by which the slope of the Missis- 
sippi basin declines from those of the St. Lawrence 
and Hudson basins, and entirely destitute of moun- 
tains, though exceeding in length the curve line of 
Europe, extending from the Carpathian to the Ural 
systems, and which separates the sources of the 
streams which flow into the Black and Caspian, from 
those which enter the Baltic and White seas. 

We may therefore consider the basin of the Mis- 
sissippi as the southern declination of the great cen- 
tral valley of North America ; and as limited east, 
by the table land, and not by the actual chains of 
the Appalachian system, and on the west, in a simi- 
lar manner, terminated by the table land, and not 
by the chains of the Chippewayan. 

On the northern boundary, the actual separation 
of source is in many places undefined by nature, and 
the summit level so completely apart of the surface 
of a sphere, that the waters flow both ways. This 
circumstance we have found to be the case near the 
southern termination of Michigan lake, and between 
St. Louis river of lake Superior and the Ouisconsin 
branch of Mississippi. It is evident from the pre- 
ceding data that lake Michigan, Illinois river, and 
the Mississippi river below the mouth of the Illinois, 
are parts of the lower depression of the central valley 
of North America, and that a barrier of very little 
elevation above Niagara, would turn the entire dis- 
charge of the higher sub-basin of the St.Lawrence in- 
to the Illinois, and of course into the basin of the Mis- 
sissippi. This has been supposed by some observers 
to have been the case; a more correct geographical 
knowledge may yet decide this curious problem in 
physical geography. * In the existing state of things 



* Might not lake Erie have formerly discharged itself 
by the Tonnewanta valley, into the Genessee river ? It 
is, however, believed by some that this lake formerly dis- 
charged itself by the Chicago creek and Illinois rivers into 



262 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

it will demand comparatively but a limited exertion 
of human power to open an uninterrupted water 
communication between lake Michigan and Illinois 
river, and insulate all that part of the territory of the 
United States, and adjacent parts of Cabotia, wllich 
are included between the St. Lawrence basin, the 
Atlantic ocean. Gulf of Mexico, and Mississippi ri- 
ver. 

The great surface included under this head, the 
imperfect state of geographical knowledge respect- 
ing many of its sections, and the brevity of this view, 
all combine to preclude so detailed a notice of the 
minor parts, as has been given in respect to the At- 
lantic slope; but there are peculiarities in the period- 
ical fluctuations of the rivers of the central basin 
which demand the more attention because the laws 
which govern the annual overflow of the main reci- 
pient are but imperfectly understood. 

The -most south-western stream of the United 
States is the Sabine. This river has its source in 
the province of Texas, about N. lat. 32° 30'. With 
an elliptical curve to the east, the general course of 
the Sabine is nearly south. At N. lat. 30° 10', it 
emerges from a dense forest into open plains of 
grass and marsh, through whicKit flows by an exces- 
sively winding channel, to N. lat. 30°, where it di- 
lates into a shallow lake of 30 miles in length, and 
from three to five miles wide ; which, at its lower 
extremity, again contracts into a river of about 200 
yards wide, and discharges into the Gulf of Mexico 
at N.lat. 29° 28', long. W. C. 17° 05' W. The coun- 
try from which the sources of Sabine arise is rolling 
or rather moderately hilly, but eminences of every 
kind subside as the stream quits the forest, and in 



the gulf of Mexico, before the supposed barrier at Lewis- 
ton was broken down. — Clinton's Introductory Discourfie 
befm-e the L. & P. S., K Y., note 7, p. 51. Da^ia Long- 
worth, 1815. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 263 

the prairies and marshes towards the sea coast, one 
iindeviating level spreads its monotonous bosom. 

This river affords no navigable facility worthy no- 
tice j it has not in ordinary tides above three feet 
v/ater on its bar, nor has its inland lake or bay above 
four or five feet, and near the shores still less depth. 
I navigated it with three assistants in a large pirogue, 
drawing about one foot water, and was very seldom 
able to reach the shore without dragging our slight 
vessel. 

The Calcasiu is the next stream which follows 
the Sabine to the eastward. Tlie former rises in 
the angle between the latter and Red river, at N. 
lat. 31° 30'. Curving in a singular manner alike, the 
Sabine and Calcasiu, from the sources of the latter 
to its mouth, flow very nearly parallel to each other, 
distant about 35 miles; and similar in their features, 
the latter, like the former, emerges from the same 
forest into open prairies and marshes, expands into 
a lake, and again contracts into a river before reach- 
ing the Gulf of Mexico, into which it is discharged 
at N. lat. 29° 32', long. 16° 23' W. The resem- 
blance between the two rivers is extended to their 
respective rank as navigable channels ; the depth 
either on the outer bar or lakes, is remarkably si- 
milar. 

Following the coast of the Gulf of Mexico about 
twelve miles eastw^ard from the mouth of Calcasiu, 
is found that of the Mermentau. The triangle 
made by the Delta of the Mississippi, the shores of 
the Gulf, and the Sabine, has its base along the 
Gulf, perpendicular along the Sabine, and hypothe- 
nuse along the Delta, and consequently, the rivers 
rising on the triangle have more contracted courses, 
advancing from the basin of the Sabine towards the 
cutlet of the Mississippi. The Mermentau is truly 
a river of Opelousas prairies, rising on the triangle 
we have sketched, at N. lat.. 30° 53', and, draining 
the centre of Opelousas by a number of branches, 



264 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

flows by a general course of S. S. W., opens like the 
Sabine and Calcasiu, into a lake, and again contracts 
into a river, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico at 
N. lat. 29° 32', long. 16° W. With other traits of 
resemblance, the Mermentau partakes with the Sg- 
bine and Calcasiu in a defective navigation. "^ 

Those three streams are so perfectly similar, and 
so nearly of a width at their respective mouths, that 
it is difficult to distinguish them asunder. There 
is, however, one certain landmark to point out the 
Mermentau from the two others. The live-oak, 
Quercus semfiervirens, is plentiful in small clusters 
along its shores, and in little clumps spread over the 
adjacent marshes; but upon the Calcasiu and Sa- 
bine this tree is utterly wanting. This fact in vege- 
table physiology, I can vouch from actual observa- 
tion. When I entered the Calcasivi, I thought my- 
self in the Mermentau, and looked in vain for the 
live- oak tree, which 1 had previously and truly been • 
told abounded near the latter. In a careful exami- 
nation along both the Sabine and Calcasiu I did not 
detect a single stem of this valuable tree, so A^ery 
plentiful on those streams more eastward. The 
cause of this phenomenon may be accounted for by 
due attention to the elements in Chapter X. of this 
view. 

From the outlet of the Mermentau, a distance of 
about 60 miles is altogether unbroken by a single 
stream originating in the solid prairie and crossing 
the marsh. This inaccessible line of coast is fol- 
lowed by the Vermillion, a fine, but small river, ri- 
sing in Opelousas, but flowing through Attacapas 
into the Gulf of Mexico. The source of the Ver- 
million is near the village of St. Landre, the seat of 
justice of Opelousas, at N. lat. 30° 31', and with a 
general southern course of about 80 miles, falls into 
a large bay, which again opens by several passes 
into the Gulf of Mexico at N. lat. 29° 35'. Though 
something more navigable than the small rivers we 



FART or 

LdUISIANA; 

Delia ®f the Mississippi. 

Miles 

5 lO 20 aO JO 




GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 265 

have already noticed as entering the Mexican gulf 
west of that stream, the Vermillion will not admit 
vessels of above 5 feet draught. The lands along 
its banks above the sea marsh are of excellent 
quality, and as low as the 30th degree of N. lat. 
produce sugar cane; cotton is, however, the staple 
commodity generally cultivated. 

The Teche, a stream of superior magnitude and 
length of course to the Vermillion, heads in the 
same part of Opelousas, but as the latter mingles 
with the Atchafalaya, the Delta of the Mississippi 
succeeds to the former. 

The Atchafalaya* is the upper mouth of the Mis- 
sissippi on the right, and leaves the main stream at 
N. lat. 31°, long. 14° 47' W. W^here this outlet 
leaves the Mississippi, the latter is a fraction above 
half a mile wide, and the former 110 yards. It is 
only in seasons of high water that a heavy volume 
flows down the Atchafalaya. I have seen the cur- 
rent in fact flowing out of that channel into the Mis- 
sissippi, but when the latter is at its extreme height, 
the mass of water drawn down this great outlet is 
enormous, and for five or six miles, the current is 
excessively strong, but abates as the river ap- 
proaches the interior overflowed plains. I have de- 
nominated this inundated tract " plains," to distin- 
guish it from the sea marsh. These two kinds of 
soil, though contiguous in Louisiana, and in many 
other parts of the sea border of the United States, 
are radically distinct. The periodically inundated 
tracts along the Mississippi, are also very errone- 
ously called swam/is. So far from being swamps, 

* A-tcha-fa-lay-a, as the Indians pronounce this word, 
giving each syllable with equal accent, and with the 
sharp «, as in bat. It is in fact a sentence signifying 
" Lost water," and when properly pronounced is an ele- 
gant, and when understood, a very descriptive name. 



266 GEOGRAl*HICAL VIEW. 

in the true meaning of that term, the low and flat 
lands submerged annually by the surplus waters of 
this immense river, are, when left dry for some 
weeks, excessively solid land, and in a state of na- 
ture, covered with very dense forests. In point of 
soil the high prairies are similar to the inundated 
and wooded lowlands; but the marshes near the sea, 
still more uniform in their surface than either the 
high prairie or inundated forest land, are liable to 
diurnal flow of the tides, and are real swamps, and, 
except by the streams, utterly impassable by man. 

The Atchafalaya in its course, and including its 
confluents, drains within a comparatively confined 
area a very great variety of soil and surface. After 
leaving the Mississippi, this stream flows south- 
west 5 miles, and thence turns to south, which lat- 
ter course, with great partial windings, is maintain- 
ed 30 miles, to the influx from the north-west of the 
Courtableau. 

The Courtableau is a singular stream; its two re- 
mote sources, the Crocodile and Boeuf, rise in the 
hilly pine forests, between Red river and the head 
of Calcasiu, about N. lat, 31° 20'. Flowing south- 
east, and nearly parallel, 63 miles, they unite about 
8 miles a little east of north from the village of St. 
Landre. The lower part of the channel of the Croc- 
odile passes along the verge of the prairies of Ope- 
lousas, whilst its confluent, the Boeuf, ranges along 
the western margin of the great forest-overflow of 
Red and Atchafalaya rivers; below their junction 
the united stream, under the name of Courtableau, 
maintains the original course of south-east 20 miles 
to its junction with the Atchafalaya. Within 5 or 
6 miles from St. Landre, this really important though 
humble stream, opens a glimpse of the wide spread 
prairies, and again plunges into the deeply entangled 
woods whose roots are annually bathed with the 
waters of the Mississippi. The Courtableau is the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 267 

channel of intercommunication between the higher 
parts of Opelousas and the Mississippi. 

Below the Courtableau, the Atchafalaya, through 
a maze of interlocking outlets and inlets, turns to S. 
S. E. about 20 miles, to the outlet into Lake Cheti- 
maches. Turning thence nearly due east 15 miles, 
receives the Plaquemine outlet from the Missis- 
sippi. 

The Plaquemine is one of the mouths of the Mis- 
sissippi, and except in size, is otherwise of the same 
nature with' the Atchafalaya itself. The former 
issues from the main stream about 20 miles below 
Baton Rogue, and 6 below the Iberville. It is only 
at high flood that any water flows into the Plaque- 
mine; the channel is narrow and the current exces- 
sively rapid, but, similar to that of the outlet of the 
Atchafalaya, mitigates approaching the interior low 
grounds, and becomes moderate near its junction 
with the latter, six miles in a direct line from the 
Mississippi. 

Having received the Plaquemine, the Atchafa- 
laya winds to a little east of south, 30 miles to its in- 
gress into a large bay of the same name. At 20 
miles above its mouth the Teche enters from the 
north-west. 

The Teche rises in the northern prairies of Ope- 
lousas, at N. lat. 30° 40', and flowing south-east 30 
miles, between the Courtableau and Vermillion, 
enters Attacapas, At the point of entrance into the 
latter, an inlet from the Vermillion unites with it, 
below which the Teche assumes the form of a river, 
and continuing S. E. 30 miles to New Iberia, meets 
the tide at N. lat. 30° 02', and inflecting to S. E. by 
E. widens from about 30 to 100 yards, and deepens 
from 5 to 30 or 40 feet, and flowing 90 miles, joins 
the Atchafalaya, 

The entire length of the Teche, by comparative 
courses, is about 150 miles, but following the wind- 
ings of tlie stream at least 200; but a circumstance 

I 



S68 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of peculiar interest in the geography of this river is 
the fact, that in all its range in Attacapas, of up- 
vizards of 120 miles comparative course, it receives 
no tributary branch. The banks rise by gentle ac- 
clivity, to 35 or 40 feet, and decline from the water 
40 or 50 yards, and similar to those of the Missis- 
sippi, rise above the adjacent plains, and have every 
appearance of having once been overflowed peri- 
odically, and of having contained a much larger 
volume of water than now passes down the channel 
at any season of the year. If a map of the country 
drained by the Teche was drawn without that 
stream and presented to a person unacquainted with 
its individual geography, he would place a dividing 
ridge precisely along its channel; such, however, is 
the intricacy of the topography of the western part 
of the Delta of the Mississippi, that I have inserted 
the enclosed sketch, in order to compensate for the 
defect of verbal description. The real distinction 
between the prairie, sea-marsh, and inundated for- 
est land, is also exhibited. The Atchafalaya is, 
however, drawn on a much too large comparative 
scale with the Mississippi. 

New Iberia, at the head of tide water in the 
Teche, is a port of entry, and vessels frequently 
clear out from thence, but the general commercial 
communication is with the city of New Orleans, 
through the Atchafalaya, Plaquemine and Mississip- 
pi; or from the lower Teche, through lakes Pal- 
ourde andVeret and their connecting inlets, and the 
Lafourche and Mississippi rivers. 

Boats from 15 to 60 tons are conveyed from New 
Orleans by the Plaquemine into the Atchafalaya. 
Those destined for the lower part of Attacapas de- 
scend the latter river, and enter theirpoints of desti- 
nation by the Teche. Those bound to the central 
parts of Attacapas, ascend the Atchafalaya about 
20 miles, and are thence transported by an outlet 
and Lake Chetemaches, to the Fause Point landing. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 269 

Here is a portage of 10 or 12 miles to St. Martins- 
ville, seat of justice for the parish of St. Martins, or 
Upper Attacapas. Vessels destined for the higher 
and central parts of Opelousas ascend the Atchafa- 
laya to the mouth of Courtableau, and thence by the 
latter stream to Lemell's Landing, 6 miles, or into 
Bayou Carron, 4 miles from the village of St, Lan- 
dre. 

The much misunderstood phenomenon in the 
Atchafalaya, " The Raft," is in reality the debris 
thrown out of the Mississippi, Vv'hich at some un- 
known period was collected in a mass at one of the 
abrupt bends in the narrow and very tortuous chan- 
nel of the Atchafalaya, and augmented by future 
accessions of floating timber, obstructed the naviga- 
tion between the points marked on the accompany- 
ing sketch. I surveyed the Atchafalaya from its 
outlet from the Mississippi to its junction with 
Plaquemine, and examined the coast, in 1808, 1809, 
and 1810. At those epocha, the Raft began about 
26 miles by the channel from the Mississippi, and 
occurred in fragments as low as within 5 miles 
above the Courtableau. About 1774, a small mass 
broke from the main body, and lodged again about 
half a mile below the mouth of Courtableau, and 
continues yet to embarrass the navigation of both 
streams, though partially removed by the inhabi- 
tants of Opelousas. 

The Raft is by no means stationary ; several 
breaks were made by the rising waters in my own 
presence; but interlaced as the trees are by their 
branches and pressure, when a breach does occur, 
it is by immense masses, which soon again lodge. 
The channel varies very little from about 110 yards 
wide from the Mississippi to the Teche, and above 
the Courtableau the bends are extremely abrupt 
and winding, presenting in reality a miniature pic- 
ture of the Mississippi. 

The ordinarv tides of the Gulf of Mexico are so 



S70 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

much influenced by variable winds, that the flow in- 
land cannot be marked to any given point in most of 
the channels of Louisiana; but left to its own natu- 
ral swell, the spring tides, when the interior waters 
are low, ascend in the Atchafalaya above the lower 
Raft, and in the Covirtableau, to near the lower 
Opelousas landing. In the Plaquemine and Iber- 
ville, the spring tides, in the foregoing stated condi- 
tion of the rivers, rise to within 4 or 5 miles from 
the Mississippi. I particularly notice these circum- 
stances in the tides, as they tend so strongly to illus- 
trate the real and relative elevation of this country. 
The spring tides of the Gulf of Mexico, unaided by 
wind, do not exceed 3 feet, and consequently from 
the approach of the earth in and near the Delta of 
the Mississippi to the curve of the sphere, a rise so 
moderate is perceptible to a distance inland, which 
from a superficial viev/ of the external features, 
would be totally unexpected. Similar inductions 
may again be drawn from the rise of the tide in the 
Teche, Vermillion, and the branches of Mermen- 
tau; and I have no doubt also in the Calcasiu and 
Sabine, but when I examined the two latter rivers, 
they were greatly swollen by winter rains, and 
north and north-west winds prevailed nearly the 
whole period of my visit to their channels. The 
other rivers from which my examples have been 
drawn, I had repeated opportunities to examine 
leisurely at nearly all seasons of the year. 

I may dismiss the subject of the Atchafalaya, by 
observing that the surface on both sides of its chan- 
nel is the lowest ground, the sea marshes excepted, 
in the Delta, and with very partial exceptions, is 
liable to annual and deep submersion. The reader 
ought, however, to cautiously distinguish between 
the relative elevation of the surface near the rivers, 
and the actual bottom of the streams. It will be 
shewn in the sequel, that the channel of the Mis- 
sissippi is the lowest valley of the country through 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 271 

which it flows, but it is evident, from the enclosed 
sketch, that the surplus water which /a//*, if I may- 
be permitted the expression, out of the surcharged 
channel of the main stream, is carried with great 
velocity backwards towards the deep recesses of 
the overflowed lands near the Atchafalaya. The 
overflow of the latter is again slightly, and but 
slightly, augmented by the Raft. As the timber 
rises and falls with the flood in the river, it cannot 
greatly impede the descent of the water. In fact 
the most operative cause of the annual inundation of 
the Delta, is evident from the data given to be the 
very little inclination of the plain from the inte- 
rior towards the sea. The water therefore accu- 
mulates in the Atchafalaya valley, and if the forest 
was removed would give to that region in the time 
of inundation the aspect of a lake. 

Another powerful cause of inundation in the Atcha- 
falaya valley is, that a line of comparaiive high 
alluvial land' is protruded to the latter river by the 
Teche, and with the mere intervention of the main 
channel, is met by another alluvial line of a similar 
nature from the La Fourche. Thus the whole body 
of water drained in spring floods from the Missis- 
sippi by the Atchafalaya, and which is also brought 
down by the Courtableau, Teche, and smaller 
streams from Opelousas and Attacapas, can only es- 
cape by the former, opposite the mouth of the 
Teche. 

It may be asked, how high does the tide rise in 
the Mississippi itself? Such is the weight of the 
volume of water in the channel of the Mississippi, 
even when lowest, that the tide has never been 
known to ascend to New Orleans, though percepti- 
ble near that river far above that city. The cause 
of this apparent anomaly is, that the surface of the 
water in the Mississippi, at its most depressed stages, 
rises above that of the lakes and rivers in its vi- 
cinity. 



2f2 GEOGllAPHICAL VIEW. 

Advancing eastward from the Atchafalaya along 
the shores of the Mexican Gulf, the La Fourche 
is the first inlet of consequence in a commercial 
point of view. In the intermediate distance of 60 
miles, several small streams enter the Gulf, but 
from their very abridged length of course, are un- 
important. 

The La Fourche {the fork), as its name imports, 
is a mouth of the Mississippi, similar to the Atcha- 
falaya, Iberville, and Plaquemine, and the third on 
the right in descending. The outlet of the La 
Fourche, 40 or 50 yards wide, is at N. lat. 30° 06', 
long. 14° 01' W. After leaving the Mississippi, the 
course of the La Fourche is S. E. by S. 90 miles, to 
its egress into the Gulf of Mexico, at N. lat. 29° 
05', long. 13° 30' W. The La Fourche is one of 
the most important inlets of Louisiana, having 9 feet 
water on its bar, and admitting vessels drawing 4 
or 5 feet to Avithin 30 miles of its efflux; but contra- 
ry to those of the Atchafalaya, the banks of the La 
Fourche are high and arable for a distance of 60 or 
70 miles from the Mississippi. Cotton and sugar 
are the principal staples. Much of the produce and 
merchandize of the settlements along its banks are 
transported to and from New Orleans .by the Mis- 
sissippi. 

From the Sabine to the Vermillion, the coast of 
Louisiana stretches a very little north of east, but at 
the Vermillion outlet bends to S. E. by E. upwards 
of 100 miles, forming an obtuse cape which reaches 
to near the 29th degree of latitude. The interior of 
this cape is formed by the high lands between the 
Atchafalaya and La Fourche, and by the high allu- 
vial banks of the latter. I call those einbankments 
high land, it may be noticed, by mere comparison 
with surface still lower, and subject to annual inun- 
dation. In the present case, the alluvial lines being 
above any except very extraordinary inundations, 
shelter a triangular body of land, uoav forming the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 273 

parish of Terre Bonne. In this new parish, a num- 
ber of small rivers or bayous rise, and flow south- 
ward into the Gulf of Mexico. Not being liable to 
the inroads of the Mississippi overflow, the banks 
are arable, though no one of their channels is of 
such width and depth as to admit vessels of any 
draught worthy of observation in a navigable point 
of view. It is the most southern tract of cultivata- 
ble soil in Louisiana of any considerable area, and 
will, on every spot which admits agricultural ope- 
rations, produce sugar cane and rice. Here exists 
the only prairie, in the real meaning of that term, to 
be found in Louisiana east from the Atchafalaya. 

The La Fourche is followed by an intricate net- 
work of lakes and bayous, which are mostly dis- 
charged into Barrataria bay. Having an open out- 
let to the sea, the overflow of the tract east from La 
Fourche, is neither so deep or permanent as that of 
the Atchafalaya valley above the mouth of Teche; 
but in the former case the real sea-marsh prevails 
much farther inland, and reaches to the vicinity of 
the Mississippi, south from its great bend near New 
Orleans. Very little arable soil exists in all the 
large triangle formed by the Mississippi river. Gulf 
of Mexico, and La Fourche river. The inlets of 
Barrataria bay are only navigable with small craft. 

The coast at the outlet of La Fourche bends to 
the north-east, and by a bold circular sweep, first 
in that direction, then east, and finally south-east, 
forms an open elliptical bay, between the outlets of 
La Fourche and the south-west pass of the Missis- 
sippi. The interior of this bay terminates in Barra- 
taria lake, nearly due south from New Orleans. 

We now approach to that very remarkable sa- 
lient point formed by the main volume and real 
mouths of the Mississippi. This vast river stands 
alone in the manner of its egress. If, like the Nile, 
Ganges, Blue and Yellow rivers, the Orinoco, the 
Rhine and some others, the Mississippi divided its 



274 . GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

volume into various outlets far in the interior, there 
would be nothing peculiar in its Delta; but as 
the Atchafalaya, Iberville, Plaquemine, and La 
Fourche are mere drains, and, accurately speaking, 
not real mouths, we may consider the entire volume 
as continuous over the main body of the Delta, and 
upwards of 30 miles into the Gulf of Mexico. The 
latter circumstance has no parallel in physical ge- 
ography, even on a small scale. If the protrusion 
we have noticed is supposed removed, there would 
remain a tolerable near resemblance between the 
Delta of the Nile and that of the Mississippi, but 
the long narrow cape destroys the fancied resem- 
blance, and leaves the Mississippi to . form at its es- 
tuary a distinctive picture. 

This noble river has three main and three lesser 
passes or outlets, which are marked on the accom- 
panying sketch. The most frequented is the S. E. 
pass, with 12 feet water at ordinary tides. The S. 
W. pass has, in similar circumstances, nearly a like 
depth with that of the S. E. The other passes, that 
of the south, west, north-east, and La Loutre, have 
from 5 to 8 feet, but are but little frequented. The 
shallow water is only on the bars of either pass. 
I sounded both the main passes and that of the west, 
in April, 1818, and found deep water immediately 
outside of each. The depth increased more gradu- 
ally within the channels, but in either, the largest 
ships of war could ride within one mile of the bar. 

With the outlet of the Mississippi, the coast turns 
to a north course of 70 miles, with a curve to the 
west, to Pass au Marianne. The latter is the main 
outlet into the Gulf of Mexico, of a chain of lakes 
and inlets, which commences near the Mississippi, 
50 miles to the N. W. by W. from New Orleans. 
The hilly and comparatively elevated country of the 
state of Mississippi, extends into Louisiana, gradu- 
ally depressing, and finally terminates in moderate- 
ly high bluffs or banks, near the Iberville, about 16 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 275 

miles south from Baton Rouge, If we turn to the 
map of the Mississippi below the mouth of Ohio, 
we perceive that the channel of that river fol - 
lows the eastern bluffs, and that the great body 
of overflowed surface is west from the stream, be- 
tween the mouth of the Ohio and Baton Rouge: the 
windings of the Mississippi, in many places, reach 
the base of the eastern hills, but in no one instance 
do they approach those of the west. The cause of 
this phenomenon will be exposed in another part of 
this view. 

The Iberville, or upper drain of the Mississippi, 
leaves the main volume near the termination of the 
eastern high land, and following its base N, E. by 
E. 15 miles, receives the Amite from the north, and 
inflecting to the east, by a very winding channel of 
20 miles comparative course, opens into Lake Mau- 
repas. The latter is a circular sheet of water about 
8 miles each way, receiving from the north the 
Tickfoha, a small river rising in the state of Mis- 
sissippi. 

The pass of Manchac carries the waters of Lake 
Maurepas into the much more extensive Lake 
Pontchartrain, an ellipsis 20 by 32 miles, and a very 
general depth of from 18 to 20 feet. The longer di- 
ameter of Lake Pontchartrain is nearly from W. to 
E., and parallel to the opposing range of the Mis- 
sissippi, in the vicinity of New Orleans, leaving an 
intermediate slip of low marshy, and mostly un- 
wooded plain, of from 5 to 8 miles wide. Into the 
northern side of Pontchartrain is discharged the 
rivers Tangipao, and Chifuncte, with some minor 
creeks, and the entire mass of waters are discharg- 
ed from the south-east curve of the lake by two 
passes, that of the Rigolets, and that of Chef Men- 
teur, both again discharged into Lake Borgne. 

Lake Borgne is, though denominated a lake, real- 
ly a bay of the Gulf of Mexico, or a continuation 
westward of Pascagoula so md. "North-east from 



276 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

New Orleans, extends a peninsula, which is opposed 
by another of nearly similar extent, stretching to 
the south-west. The former bounded by Chef- 
Menteur, and the latter by the Rigolets, are sepa- 
rated by a marshy island between the two passes; 
the whole forming the disjointed' isthmus, which 
spreads between Lakes Pontchartrain and Borgne, 
from 6 to 8 miles in width. 

With about 9 feet water at each extremity, the 
Rigolets receives from the north, at near its mid- 
channel, a considerable stream, Pearl river, rising 
in the state of Mississippi at N. lat. 33°, long. 12° 
30' W. Interlockhig sources with Big Black and 
Pascagoula rivers, the Pearl flows S. W. about 80, 
reaching to within 45 miles from the Mississippi at 
the mouth of Big Black, and thence inflecting to S. 
S. E. 160 miles, enters the Rigolets, after an entire 
comparative course of 240 miles. On strict geo- 
graphical principles, from its very superior length 
and volume, and from the position of its estuary, 
Amite, Tickfoha, Tangipao, and Chifuncte, with 
the discharge of Lake Pontchartrain, are branches 
of the Pearl, and confer upon the latter the dignity 
of giving name to the basin in which it is the princi- 
pal stream. Adopting this distinction, the basin of 
the Pearl occupies that part of the northern slope 
of the Gulf of Mexico, between the immediate con- 
fluents of Mississippi and those of Pascagoula. 

Geographically the basin of the Pearl extends 
from N. lat. 30° to 33°, and in long, from 12° to 14° 
17' W. It will at once be seen by reference to the map 
of the Delta, that in the Pearl basin I have includ- 
ed the minor streams, having their sources near the 
very margin of the Mississippi, from Iberville out- 
let, to Bayou St. John, draining the streets of New 
Orleans. A single glance on the map of this region 
will exhibit the correctness of this arrangement of 
parts. In extent, the Pearl basin stretches 220 miles 
from S. to N., but with very unequal width. The 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 277 

higher part of the basin confined to the mere valley of 
the Pearl for 120 miles, does not exceed a mean 
width of 30, or an area of 3600 square miles; but 
nearly E. from Natchez, at N. lat. SI** 30', the ba- 
sin widens rapidly, and spreads in form of a trape- 
zium, with its longest side 120 miles from Biloxi 
bay to the efflux of the Iberville, and perpendicular 
120, with an area of about 9600 square miles; which 
latter surface added to the higher extension of 
3600, gives an entire superficies of 13,200 square 
miles. 

Though the base of the basin of the Pearl, forms 
a decided connexion with the Delta of the Missis- 
sippi, the far greater part is composed of a soil and 
formation essentially distinct from recent alluvion, 
the component of the Delta. On the north side of 
the chain of lakes and inlets between the efflux of 
the Iberville and Biloxi bay, the surface rises for S 
or 10 miles, by a very gentle acclivity, but this slow- 
ly rising inclined plain is imperceptibly succeeded 
by hills; the surface becomes broken, and the chan- 
nels of the streams more shallow, though their val- 
lies sink much more comparatively deep; except 
near the water courses, pitch pine, pinus strobus, 
is the common timber. As the region of which the 
'basin of Pearl forms a part, is an important and pe- 
culiar section of the United States, some amplifica- 
tion in this place may not be deemed irrelevant, and 
particularly as the observations, without much vio- 
lence done to correct theory, may be extended to 
the larger basins of Pascagoula, Mobile, and Appa- 
lachicola. 

Extending our views from Baton Rouge, or per- 
haps more correctly from the efflux of Iberville, to 
the mouth of Ohio, stretches a buttress, broken by 
numerous streams, and the projections of which, 
worn by the abrasion of the Mississippi, are known 
by the name of Bluffs. These Bluffs are the mere 
advanced points of the comparatively more elevated 
A a 



278 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

country east of the Mississippi, above the overflow- 
ed tracts immediately west from that stream. The 
elevation of the Bluffs varies, but may be considered 
as exceeding 100 feet above the alluvial plains near 
the Mississippi, and the interior country rises by a 
moderate acclivity. 

The excessively broken aspect of the country for 
15 or 20 miles from the Mississippi, is calculated to 
deceive a casual observer, and induce him to exag- 
gerate the actual height of the general surface, but 
more careful and continued observation discloses 
the real nature of the ten thousand hills, which lie 
scattered in wild confusion seeming to mock all ar- 
rangement. Advancing eastward, it is soon perceiv- 
ed that the hills near the streams are the remains 
left of a once extended terrace, now furrowed by 
innumerable channels. The soil of the bluff, or 
hilly tract, is almost uniformly productive, but as 
the hills subside into plains, the soil deteriorates, 
and the mingled forests of oak, sweet gum, poplar, 
liriodendron tulipifera, hickory of various species, 
and some pine, are followed by the almost exclusive 
prevalence of the latter tree. 

It would not be much risk to estimate the pine 
tract as occupying two-thirds of all the superficies 
from the Atlantic ocean to the Sabine, along a zone> 
from the 30th to the 33d degree N.lat. This species 
of soil, deriving its title from the most abundant tim- 
ber it produces, terminates in some places abruptly, 
but in general gradually merges into what is known 
locally by the designation of interval land; a kind of 
soil partaking of an intermediate quality between 
actual alluvion and pine-land. Correctly speaking, 
the superstratum of the bluffs is a real interval land, 
and for variety of vegetable productions, highly 
valuable. 

Before proceeding to delineate the residue of the 
coast of the Gulf of Mexico, from the Delta of the 
Mississip])i to Florida })oint, wc may pause antl cast 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 279 

a summary glance over that region of recent crea- 
tion, the coast of Louisiana. The first sweep of 
vision along the entire line of sea coast from the Sa- 
bine to the mouth of the Pearl, spreads before us a 
marsh of upwards of 400 miles, interrupted only by 
the water courses. On a near approach to their 
line of separation, the waves of the Gulf can be 
still, with some difficulty, distinguished from the 
very little more elevated green of the marshes. A 
few shrubs and clumps of trees are perceived at a 
distance in solitary groups, to mark the commence- 
ment of a more majestic vegetation. To the north- 
west, along the Teche,^Vermillion, Mermentau, Cal- 
casiu, and Sabine, beyond the marshes, and with a 
moderately greater elevation, immense prairies 
would be seen to extend, and most elegantly orna- 
mented by the serpentine lines of forest, curving 
with the concealed channels. Still farther inland, 
and on all sides, beyond the marshes and prairies, 
the perspective would be darkened by dense and 
continuous forests, through which would be seen 
the tortuous Mississippi rolling, with solemn and 
irresistible majesty, towards its only successful rival 
the Gulf of Mexico. 

Suppose for a moment, that stream at its utmost 
elevation; suppose the wide recesses we have de- 
scribed to be gorged to overflowing, and then ima- 
gine the forest removed from the inundated plains, 
and what a picture would open to the eye. From 
the prairies and marshes of Attacapas and Opelou- 
sas, to the bluffs of the Mississippi, the water 
courses would vanish, and before us would spread a 
vast lake of upwards of 100 miles in length, with 
from 10 to 40 miles in width. The very narrow 
alluvial borders along the streams would, like the 
wooded lines over the prairies, decorate and embel- 
lish, without greatly diminishing the expanse of wa- 
ters. On the east, the limjt of this annually recur- 
ring inland sea, would appear strongly defined, but 



280 - GEOGRAPHIGAL VIEW. 

on the west, the demarcation with the prairies and 
marshes, would be faint and indefinite. But of all 
the wonders of this annual deluge, the most curious 
is certainly the almost exact resemblance, mere 
magnitude of volume only excepted, between the 
two bounding rivers, the Mississippi and Teche; 
and what is peculiarly worthy of notice, the latter 
river coasts, without either receiving or participa- 
ting of the water contained in the adjacent lake. 

From the preceding data, may be conceived the 
impenetrable nature of the Louisiana coast, except 
through the channels of the rivers. Even by those 
entrances, 12 feet is the deepest water which canbe 
calculated on at all seasons, and that depth only in 
the Mississippi. Extremes in no instance can more 
effectually touch, than in the case before us. No 
walls of rock, however high and rude, could more 
completely oppose all approach, than do the low 
shores, shallow waters, and marshes of I^ouisiana. 

I have in the preceding survey omitted a particu- 
lar review of the outlet of the Mississippi itself, or 
of its course over the Delta, only as incidentally ne- 
cessary to complete a notice of the m.inor streams. 
This apparent omission of what constitutes the pri- 
mary object in a review of the sea-border of Louisi- 
ana, was an intentional postponement to the close of 
the article. The channel of the Mississippi is inti- 
mately connected, not alone with the Delta, but also 
with the basin generally, and can be more appro- 
priately reserved to the close of the article. We 
therefore now resume our survey of the coast east- 
ward from the Delta. 

We have given a passing notice to a low flat and 
marshy peninsula, which projects to the N. E. from 
the lower part of the Delta. It is this peninsular 
flat, the isthmus between Lakes Pontchartrain and 
Borgne, and the southern coast of the state of Mis- 
sissippi, which form that deep and shallow bay 
mis-named Lake Borgne, a parallelogram extending 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 281 

40 miles from S. W. to N. E., with a mean width of 
15 miles. 

Lake Pontchartrain, the Rigolets, Lake Borgne, 
and below the latter, the Pass of Christian, Pasca- 
goula sound, and Pass of Heron, form an interesting 
inland navigation into Mobile bay. This channel is 
formed by the main shore of Mississippi, and south- 
western Alabama, on the north; and a chain of long, 
low, sandy islands, stretching from the mouth of 
Mobile bay, in a western direction towards the Ri- 
golets. These islets are, advancing from the west to 
east, the groups of Malheureux and Marianne, the 
solitary Cat island. Ship island. Dog island, Horn 
island. Petite Bois, and Dauphin island. In ordina- 
ry stages of the water, this coast passage cannot be 
made with vessels drawing above 5 feet water, as 
over the shoals of either Heron or Christian, that is 
about the common depth. Distance from New Or- 
leans to Mobile bay by this inner passage, 100 miles; 
and 130, if extended to the city of Mobile. 

This inland channel is again continued N. W. 
from New Orleans 125 miles, following the wind- 
ings of Lake Pontchartrain, Pass of Manchac, Lake 
Maurepas, Amite and Iberville rivers, to the Mis- 
sissippi, at the efflux of the latter outlet. Schooners, 
and other vessels of 5 feet draught, can be navigated 
to Galveztown, at the junction of the Iberville and 
Amite. 

In every section of this chain of navigable rivers, 
lakes, inlets, and sounds, it has been shewn, that 18 
feet water in Lake Pontchartrain is its deepest part. 
Some projects have been broached for making this 
line, the principal channel of internal navigation in 
the Delta; I trust I shall, however, demonstrate in 
the sequel of this article, that the heaviest ship of 
war that is now in the United States' navy, could be 
navigated from the Gulf of Mexico to New Orleans 
by the channel of the Mississippi, at greatly less ex- 
pense than could a vessel of 10 feet draught be made 
A a 2 



282 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

to float doAvn the Iberville, Amite, Lake Maurepas, 
and Pontchartrain, to the mouth of Bayou St. John. 
I may now say en passant^ that the former is prac- 
ticable, the latter almost beyond human means. 

In the eastern extension of the preceding channel, 
the only river worthy notice which it receives, is 
the Pascagoula, an unimportant stream, however, in 
a navigable point of view. It rises on the angle be- 
tween the sources of the Pearl and the confluents of 
Tombigbee; flows south 120 miles under the name 
of Chickasawhay; where it is augmented by a large 
confluent from the north-west. Leaf river. Assum- 
ing below their junction the name of Pascagoula, con- 
tinues south 50 miles, and falls into a sound of the 
same name, opposite Horn island, and receiving 
near its outlet, a considerable tributary. Dog river 
from the N. E. 

Themarshy coast of the Gulf of Mexico terminates 
with the Rigolets, and eastward of that inlet, the 
pine tract reaches the gulf, and that tree thence 
constitutes the prevailing timber along the sea coast 
of Mississippi, Alabama, and great part of Florida. 
At the mouth of the Pascagoula, pine forests extend 
from the margin of the sound. The few dwarf trees 
on the Sand islands opposite, are also pine. It was 
at this very spot, that I felt my self beyond the allu- 
vial creation of the Mississippi. Examining the 
coast from the mouth of Pearl to that of Mobile, the 
shores seemed rather yielding to the waves than 
augmenting by any deposit carried inland by their 
means. West of the mouths of the Mississippi, as 
far as I have examined the coast, the debris brought 
down its surface are distributed in great abundance; 
eastward of the Delta, these fragments are nowhere 
found. These facts shew the course of the currents 
along the northern shores of the Gulf of Mexico, to 
be westward, and serve also to direct the approach 
of vessels to the entrance of the Mississippi. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 283 

Mobile bay is a fine triangular sheet of water of 
30 miles in length and Varying from 18 to 3 miles 
wide. The projection of Mobile point, and the po- 
sition of Dauphin island, land-lock this bay. The 
main entrance with 16 feet water, winds between 
Dauphin island and the western cape of Mobile 
point, close upon the latter. Between Dauphin 
island and the main shore of Alabama, lies the Pass 
of Heron with 5 feet water. The depth over the 
main bar is maintained inland to about 5 miles be- 
low the city of Mobile, where another bar, or sand 
bank, with only 10 feet water, crosses the bay from 
W. to E. 

Into Mobile bay is poured the river of the same 
name, the discharge of a triangular navigable basin 
of 37',120 square miles. The Mobile river is form- 
ed by two great branches, the Tombigbee from the 
north-west, and Alabama from the north-east. 

The Tombigbee is formed by two branches ; the 
Tuscaloosa {Black Warrior), and Tombigbee. The 
latter rises in the north-east angle of the state of 
Mississippi, in the country of the Chickisaws, at N. 
lat. 34° 40', long. 12° 20' W., the branches, howev- 
er, rising with the small creeks of Tennessee, through 
100 miles, interlocking westward with those of the 
Yazoo, or Tallahatcha, and eastward with those of 
the Sipsey or New river. Flowing by a general 
course, nearly south, 100 miles,the various branches 
haAdng united, incline to a little E. of S., and enter 
the state of Alabama, at N. lat. 33° 16', 5 miles be- 
low Columbus, the seat of justice for Monroe coun- 
ty, Mississippi. At this point the Tombigbee is al- 
ready a navigable river, having drained a surface of 
at least 5000 square miles. Below the Alabama line 
25 miles, the Sipsey or New river enters from the 
N. E., and the main stream, in a course S. S. E. of 
50 miles, is again augmented by the still more im- 
portant branch, the Tuscaloosa, after an entire com- 
parative course of 170 miles ; at N, lat. 32° 31', long. 
10° 58' W. ( Tanner's map). 



284 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

It will be seen, when treating of the Tennessee, 
that in its curve through Alabama, it flows near the 
lower margin of the mountain valley. It is from this 
formation of the intermediate country, that the 
sources of the Mobile basin through upwards of 400 
miles, circle round and approach the actual channel 
of iTennessee, within from 10 to 25 miles. The ex- 
treme north-eastern branch of the Tuscaloosa, rises 
at N. lat. 34° 20', long. 9° 14' W., and but little 
above 10 miles from the channel of Tennessee river, 
at the Great Bend, Decatur county, Tennessee, and 
about an equal distance from the Coosa, at the mouth 
of Will's river. Pursuing a south-west course 150 
miles, receives numerous confluents from the north- 
west. The valley of Tuscaloosa is triangular; base 
150, and perpendicular 56; mean width 28, and area 
4200 square miles. 

Below the junction of its two main branches, the 
Tombigbee, with a very winding channel, curves by 
an elliptical sweep to the west, but by a general 
course, but very little W. of S., 90 miles, to N. lat. 
31° 09', where it unites with the Alabama from the 
N. E. Between the mouths of the Tuscaloosa and 
Alabama, the Tombigbee receives no tributary 
above the size of a large creek, and its valley does 
not exceed a mean width of 35 miles, or contain 
an area above 3150 square miles : the entire 
valley, including that of Tuscaloosa, having a super- 
ficies of 13,350 square miles. 

The Alabama is formed by two branches, the 
Coosa and Tallapoosa. The Coosa rises at N. lat. 
35'' 05[, long. 7° to 8° W., in the. northern part of 
Georgia, interlocking sources with Tennessee, Hi- 
wassee and Chatahooche rivers. The Etowah or 
extreme north-eastern branch, heads in the angle 
between the Hiwassee and Chestatee branch of 
Chatahooche, and flowing 35 miles a little east of 
south, and parallel to the Chestatee, bends thence 
west 30 miles, and thence S. S. W. 35 miles to N. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 285 

lat. 34°. Curving abruptly to the N. W. by W. 30 
miles, receives the Oostenalah, and assumes the 
name of the Coosa. 

The Oostenalah rises in Georgia, and at N. lat. 
35° 05', in the angle between the Tennessee and Eto- 
wah rivers, and falls but little short of the latter in 
volume, but both streams having their sources in the 
highest nucleus of the Appalachian mountains, are 
large and rapid rivers compared with their length of 
channel. 

The Coosa, below the junction of its two consti- 
tuent branches, flows west 8 miles and enters Ala- 
bama, near Fort Armstrong,* and inflecting to S. 
W. by W. about 35 miles, receives Will's creek on 
N. lat. 34°, long. 8° 05' W. Bending to S. S. W. 75 
miles to N. lat. 33°, again by a gentle curve turns 
to S. S. E. about 40, and thence S. W. 10 miles to 
its junction with the Tallapoosa, at N. lat. 32° 28', 
long. 9° 22' W., after an entire comparative course 
of near 300 miles. 

From the circuitous windings of the Coosa, its val- 
ley is not more than two-third s the length of its 
channel, or about 200 miles. Receiving no conside- 
rable branches, the mean width of the valley is only 
about 45 miles; area 9000 square miles. 

The Tallapoosa rises in Georgia near the channel 
of the Etowah, and between the Chatahooche and 
Coosa, at N. lat. 34°, long. 8° W. Without receiv- 
ing any considerable confluent in the intermediate 
distance, Tallapoosa enters Alabama, flows S. S. W. 
120 miles, and receives the Tallassee creek from the 
east, and abruptly bending to the W. 25 miles, unites 
with the Coosa, and forms the Alabama, at the 
village of Coosawda, Autauga county, Alabama. 

The valley of Tallapoosa is about 125 by 35 miles; 
area 4375 square miles: Extending from N, lat 32° 
to 34°. 

* Tanner's Map. 



286 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

From Coosa wda, the Alabama flows by compara- 
tive courses a little S. of W. 50 miles, receives the 
Cahaba, a considerable confluent from the N., in- 
flects to S. S. W., and continues that direction near- 
ly 100 miles to its junction with the Tombigbee. 

There is perhaps no other river in the United 
States in which the actual length of the channel and 
those of the comparative courses differ so much as 
in the Alabama. By its two general courses, one 
above and the other below the influx of the Cahaba, 
this river is about 150 miles in length; but if esti- 
mated along its banks it would exceed 100 above, 
and amount to near 200 below the Cahaba. 

Including the valley of the Cahaba, that of the 
Alabama is of very irregular form, stretching from 
N, lat. 31° 04' to 33® 47', and containmg by actual 
survey 8460 square miles. 

Before their actual junction, some one or more 
small outlets partially unite the waters of Tombig- 
bee and Alabama, and after uniting and losing their 
names in that of Mobile, the mass of water does not 
immediately intermingle in one bed, but penetrating 
the inundated intermediate flat by two main and nu- 
merous smaller channels, flows upwards of 30 miles 
before the whole is lost in Mobile bay; out of which 
it is again discharged around Dauphin island. 

The valley of the Mobile proper is about 60 by 
30 miles, or 1800 square miles, one-third at least oc- 
cupied by the bay, leaving 1200 square miles for the 
two small slopes on each side of the bay and river. 

Mobile basin, at its north-eastern extremity, is 
followed by that of Appalachicola, but these two 
basins receding from each other towards their re- 
spective estuaries, leave a comparatively small, but 
a very important, intermediate basin, having Pensa- 
cola tor its principal entrance from the Gulf of 
Mexico. It has, however, two more bays of con- 
siderable extent, Santa Rosa and St. Andrews; and 
Perdido may be also considered a part, though de- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 287 

riving consequence merely as a political boundary 
between Florida and Alabama. 

Pensacola bay is the estuary of several small 
creeks or rivers, and one stream, the Escambia, of 
considerable magnitude. The Escambia is formed 
by two very unequal branches, the Escambia proper 
and Connecuh. The Escambia is a mere creek, 
rising in Monroe county, Alabama, and flowing S. 
S. E. over Baldwin and Connech counties enters 
Florida, and falls into the Connecuh river, about 2 
miles below the boundary between Alabama and 
Florida. 

The Connecuh is a river of much greater magni- 
tude than its confluent the Escambia. The latter 
rises in Alabama and in the angle between the Talla- 
poosa and Chatahooche rivers, at N. lat. 32° 10', 
long. W. C. 8° 30' W. Flowing thence 130 miles 
south-west enters Florida, and receiving the Escam- 
bia the united water assumes the latter name, and 
turning to a little E. of S, 25 miles, is lost in Escam- 
bia bay, the northern arm of Pensacola bay. 

Pensacola bay, forming the deepest haven of the 
United States on the northern coast of the Gulf of 
Mexico, opens from that Gulf at N. lat. 30° 19', 
long. 10° 18' W. The entrance is about 8 miles S. 
S. W. from the city of Pensacola, and formed by 
the main channel and by Santa Rosa sound. The 
bay widens above Pensacola, and extending a little 
N. of E. 20 miles, terminates to the north in two 
deep sub-bays, Escambia and Yellow Water. The 
latter is the recipient of several creeks of little con- 
sequence, rising in the Pine woods, north-east from 
the city of Pensacola. 

The surface of Pensacola basin, with the excep- 
tion of a few confined strips along the streams, and 
some interval land, is a sterile pine forest, or open 
prairies of similar soil. 

The depth on the bar 21, and in the harbour, of 
Pensacola from 23 to 36 feet, admits vessels draw- 



288 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

ing 20 feet water to enter safely. The bottom, both 
in the entrance and bay, is either a fine sand or 
mud. Like some harbours on the Atlantic coast, 
Pensacola stands indebted for its depth of water to 
the circumstance of not receiving any large river, 
the alluvion of which, if any such had existed, would, 
in the course of time, have changed it to a shallow 
waste. 

One of those long, narrow, and low sand islands, 
so common on the Atlantic coast and on the shores 
of the Gulf of Mexico, extends from Pensacola 40 
miles N. E. by E., to an entrance into a considera- 
ble bay, the Choctawhatchie. The sound within 
Santa Rosa island is like the island itself, narrow, 
and is also a mere elongated shallow, which, within 
its entrance, turns to east 25 miles, and receives 
from the north-east Choctaw river, a stream of 
about 80 miles comparative course, rising in Henry 
and Pike counties, Alabama. As a navigable basin 
Santa Rosa or Choctawhatchie bay is unimportant. 

If due attention is paid to the philosophy of the 
seacoasts of the United States, no rational doubt can 
be entertained but that those elongated sand islands 
are mere bars, formed when the oceanic level stood 
above their surface. The coast of Louisiana, Ala- 
bama, and Florida, exhibit a constant succession of 
ridges with every appearance of islands, except be- 
ing now joined to the continent. This formation of 
coast is in a particular manner observable west from 
the Delta, and again along the coast of Florida. 
The chain of islands, however, which we have seen 
stretching from the Rigolets to Mobile bay, is in 
reality one of those sea-bars, which is again conti- 
nued in Mobile point, and broken by Perdido, 
reaches to Pensacola. Santa Rosa island perpetu- 
ates this chain, and beyond Santa Rosa inlet, inflect- 
ing to S. E. by E. 65 miles, is once more interrupted 
by St. Andrew's inlet. 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 289 

St. Andrew's bay is the last advancing from the 
west, of the intermediate basins between Mobile and 
Appalachicola rivers, and is of little consequence 
as a navigable entrance. Unlike Mobile, Pensacola, 
Perdido, and Sta. Rosa, which all more or less incline 
to the north-east, St. Andrew's bay stretches to the 
north-west, almost insulating the sandy isthmus be- 
tween Santa Rosa bay, ChOctaw river, St. Andrew's 
bay itself, and the Gulf of Mexico. 

Taken in its full extent, including the confluents 
of Perdido, Pensacola, Santa Rosa, and St. An- 
drew's, the Pensacola basin extends from the west- 
ern sources of Perdido to the eastern bend of the 
Ekanfinna river 160 miles, with a mean breadth of 
80 miles, area 12,800 square miles. 

The sources of the Coosa river and those of the 
Chatahooche rise together in the, northern part of 
Georgia, the latter being the principal confluent of 
the basin of the Appalachicola. 

The Chatahooche river rises in the highest table 
land of the Appalachian system, at N. lat. 35°, long. 
6° 20' W., interlocking sources wdth those of the 
Coosa, Hiwassee, Tennessee, and Savannah rivers. 
The higher Chatahooche is formed by two branches, 
the Chestatee and Chatahooche proper. The for- 
mer is the main stream, drawing its most remote 
sources from Habersham county, Georgia. Flow- 
ing west 25 and thence S. S. W. 75 miles, and cross- 
ing N. lat. 34°, the Chestatee receives from the 
north-east the Chatahooche. The latter, rising with 
the Chestatee and Savannah rivers, flows S. S. W. 
70 miles, having only a mountain ridge between it 
and the higher branches of the Oconee and Oak- 
mulgee branches of the Altamaha, and joins the 
Chestatee. 

The Chatahooche, below the junction of its two 

constituent branches, flows S. S. W. 50 miles, and 

thence, with a slight elliptical curve to the west, 

pursues a general southern course of 200 miles to 

D b 



290 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

its junction with Flint river, from the north-east. 
It is remarkable that in such a distance as 250 
miles, from the junction of Chestatee and Chata- 
hooche to the mouth of Flint, no tributary stream 
enters the main recipient above the size of a large 
creek, and the valley at its widest part does not ex- 
ceed 50 miles, averaging perhaps 35 miles from 
its highest point. Entire length of this long vale 
about 320 miles; area 11,200 square miles. 

Flint river rises in Henry, Fayette, and De Kalb 
counties, in Georgia, at N. lat. 33° 30'. Pursuing a 
southern course between the Chatahooche and Oak- 
mulgee 130 miles, turns thence 80 miles S. W. to 
its junction with Chatahooche, after an entire com- 
parative course of 210 miles. Similar to that of the 
Chatahooche, the Flint river valley is narrow, 
averaging a mean width of about 40 miles and with 
an area of 8400 square miles. 

The united streams of Chatahooche and Flint as- 
sume the name of Appalachicola, which flowing 
nearly due south 70 miles, receiving from the north- 
west the Chipola, and separating into several chan- 
nels, opens into St. George's sound at N. lat. 29° 
46', and into the open Gulf of Mexico at N. lat. 
29° 38'. The Appalachicola is the only river of 
the Gulf of Mexico, except the Mississippi, which 
forms a salient delta at its estuary; and it is, of all 
the rivers of the United States of equal length, the 
one which presents the greatest variety of climate. 

The lower valley of the Appalachicola is 70 by 
30 miles, area 2100 square miles. 

Though less in volume, it is a more navigable 
stream than the Mobile as to distance, though the 
latter admits the entrance of the largest vessels at 
its mouth. The ascent of sea vessels is arrested in 
Tombigbee at or near Fort St. Stephens; in the 
Alabama at Claiborne, and in the Appalachicola 
near its head. 

The basin of the Appalachicola extends through 



GEOGRAPHICAL V1.EW. 291 

upwards of 5^ deg. of lat. and rising on a table land 
at least 2000 feet above the level of the Atlantic 
ocean, or an equivalent in height for five degrees 
of lat., the temperature must have a difference of 
10 degrees. 

From Cape St. George, the extreme southern 
point of the delta of the Appalachicola, to the 
Point of Pines, the western termination of St. Da- 
vid's bay, distant about 90 miles, is the chord of an 
elliptical sheet of water or bay of Appalache, the 
curve waving northward, and having at its inner- 
most extension Ocklockonne bay and the mouths of 
St. Mark's and Auscilla or Ocklockonne rivers. 
The depth of this bay is the north-east angle of the 
Gulf of Mexico. 

As a navigable basin, that of Appalache is of mi- 
nor importance, but gains some consequence as be- 
ing the inlet to Tallahasse, the newly established 
capital of Florida. Its principal inlet the Ocklock- 
onne rises in Georgia at N. lat. 31° 35', long. 6° 40' 
W. Flowing south 40 miles, thence south-west 60 
miles, receives from the north-west the Atapulquas, 
and turning thence south-east 25 miles into Appa- 
lache bay, after an entire course of 125 miles, near- 
ly one-half in Florida. 

The St, Marks is a short river or bay of about 
20 miles comparative course, rising at N. lat. 30° 20', 
15 miles south-east from Tallahasse, Its source is a 
large pond or lake, from which it flows a little W. 
of S. and is navigable for boats of considerable ton- 
nage to its very source. 

The Suwanne follows the Appalachicola basin at 
the source of the former^ but in their respective 
courses towards the Gulf of Mexico enclose between 
them the more confined basin of the Appalache. 
The Suwanne rises in Dooley county, in Georgia, 
between the Flint and Oakmulgee rivers, and head- 
ing also with the great St, Ilia. It is formed by two 
branches, the Alapapaha to the east, and Suwanne 



292 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

proper to the west. The extreme source of the 
latter is at N. lat. 32°. Pursuing a southern course 
70 miles, it thence inflects to S.S.E. 35 miles, enters 
Florida, and continues the last course 30 miles, re- 
ceiving the Alapapaha from the N.E. 

The Alapapaha rises at N. lat. 31° 35', between 
the sources of the Suwanne and St. Ilia, and flowing 
thence 80 miles, receives from the N.E. the drain 
of the tract absurdly called Okofinoke swamp, turns 
to S.W. 10 miles, and unites with the Suwanne, at 
N. lat. 30° 25', long. 6° 20' W. The united vallies 
of the Suwanne and Alapapaha above their junction, 
form a parallelogram of about 85 by 50 miles, area 
4250 square miles. 

The Suwanne, now a considerable stream, flows 
by a rather circuitous channel, but by comparative 
courses 65 miles, separating the basin of St. John's 
from that of Appalache, and falls into the gulf of 
Mexico, between Sta. Fe and Vacasausa bays, at N. 
lat. 29° 20', long. 6° 13' W. In Florida, Suwanne 
receives few tributaries from the west, and those it 
does receive from that side are mere creeks ; but 
on the eastern side, about 30 miles above the mouth, 
a very remarkable stream enters, the Santa Fe, 
This small river heads with Black creek of St. Johns, 
and is composed of two branches, both of which have 
natural bridges ; the main or eastern branch flowing 
3 miles, and the western half a mile subterraneously, 
before their junction. 

The valley of the Suwanne below the junction of 
its main constituents, is in length from north to south, 
65, with a mean width of 40 miles, area 2600 square 
miles. Entire area of the basin 7200. Geographi- 
cally, Suwanne basin extends from N. lat. 29° 24', 
to N.lat. 32^ long. W.C. from 5° 24 to 6° 53' W. 

This river closes the list of tributary rivers enter- 
ing the northern shore of the Gulf of Mexico. As 
laid down in Tanner's map of Florida, this bay is 
traversed by long. W. C. 6? W., and towards the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 293 

southern extremity by N. lat. 29°. It is therefore 
directly east from the mouths of the Mississippi, 
distant 7 degrees of longitude or 432 miles. 

With Vacasausa bay, commences on the western 
side the peninsula of Florida. Nature has, indeed, 
traced no definite limit to this section of North 
America; but contrasting its position with the adja- 
cent part of the continent, the mouths of Suwanne 
and St. Johns seem to present sufficiently accurate 
points of separation. Assuming, therefore, these 
boundaries, a line of about 120 miles within a small 
fraction, will define the north-western extremity of 
the peninsula. It is, however, little more than 90 
miles directly across from the bottom of Vacasausa 
bay to the harbour of St. Augustine. From the 
north-east angle of Vacasausa, the shores of the 
peninsula, on the western side, incline a little W. of 
S. 60 miles to the mouth of Amasura river. Here 
the peninsula is upwards of one hundred and twenty 
miles wide ; a width which it maintains with little 
variation for 250 miles. In this distance, the only 
large entrances are, Tampa, or as formerly called, 
St. Espiritu Santo, N. lat. 27° 50', and Charlotte har- 
bour at 26° 50'. Thus far the western coast inclines 
slowly eastward, and at Cape Romano, lat. 26°, in 
nearly 3f° of latitude, has only made 1° of longitude; 
but, with Cape Romano commences a deep indent- 
ing eastward of upwards of 30 miles, forming Gal- 
livan's bay. With N. lat. 26'', both sides of the pe- 
ninsula rapidly tend to a point, and finally terminate 
at Cape Sable, N. lat. 25° 04', long. 4« 14' W, 

Too little is accurately known of the western 
coast, and of the rivers flowing from Florida into the 
Gulf of Mexico, to admit any beneficial detail. The 
interior structure of the earth on this remarkable 
peninsula, even renders the very sources of the ri- 
vers in great part undefined by nature. It seems to 
be in fact a region recently and partially wrested 
from the retiring ocean, and presents, in the forma- 
B b 2 



294 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

tion of its rivers, a similar aspect, which character- 
ised perhaps all rivers at the epoch of their primi- 
tive commencement.* 

There appears, too, a general and very gradual in- 
clination from north to south. Hills of some eleva- 
tion, and calcareous components, stretch between the 
sources of St. Johns and Amasura rivers; but, advanc- 
ing more southward, the whole surface becomes a 
dead, and in great part inundated plain. In Chapter 
II. of this view, the peculiar structure of the peninsula 
of Florida, was noticed in discussing the phenomena 
of the gulf stream. It will not be necessary to pursue 
the subject farther in this place ; we shall, there- 
fore, proceed to a summary of the basins of the Gulf 
of Mexico, the general features of which we have 
sketched. 



See Basin or Valley of Ohio. 



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GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 



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W., and 121,820 E, from the 



296 GEOGRAPHICAL \lJLVf, 



CHAPTER %U, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE GREAT CENTRAL 
BASIN OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 



Before proceeding to a specific description of the 
natural sections of the Mississippi basin, the follow- 
ing tabular view is given of each valley. 

I would have been rejoiced to have had it in nriy 
power, to insert as detailed a tabular view of the 
particular vallies of the Mississippi basin, as has 
been given on the Atlantic slope ; but the existing 
state of settlement, and geographical science, are 
neither sufficiently advanced to admit great detail in 
the former instance. The greater part of the Ohio 
valley, and east of the Mississippi generally, is fully 
explored ; but to the westward of the latter river, 
except in Louisiana, eastern Arkansas and Missouri, 
though the outline is known, the minute features 
have not been yet examined with accuracy, and de- 
lineated on our maps. It has been my endeavour to 
state known facts ; and where discovery had not af- 
forded certain documents, to be silent. In what I 
have given, my authorities may have deceived me ; 
but Ihope such instances are rare and unimportant. 



GEOGRAPHICAL YIEW. 



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298 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

From the preceding table we find that the entire 
surface drained by the Mississippi and confluents, 
amounts to the great extent of one million and ninety- 
nine thousand square miles. It may be seen by 
reference to table 18, page 257, that the aggre- 
gate extent of the Atlantic slope including St. Law- 
rence basin, amounts to 820,530 square miles, or 
little more than two-thirds of the extent of the im- 
mense regions included in the drain of the Mississip- 
pi. I shall now proceed to sketch a brief view of 
each valley of this important basin, and make the 
survey in the same order as they stand in table 20. 

Ohio Valley. — It has been long my opinion that the 
Ohio Valley once composed an immense inclined 
plane, into which the beds of the rivers have been 
formed by abrasion of water. A similar opinion 
was formed by Mr. A. Bourne, author of a very va- 
luable map of the state of Ohio, and so very well 
explained by that gentleman in a letter, from which 
I quote his words : — " The hills are generally found 
near the rivers or large creeks, and parallel to them 
on each side, having between them the alluvial val- 
ley, through which the stream meanders, usually 
near the middle, but sometimes washes the foot of 
either hill alternately. Perhaps the best idea of 
the topography of this state, (Ohio) may be obtained 
by conceiving the state to be one vast elevated plain, 
near the centre of which the streams rise, and in 
their course wearing down a bed or valley, whose 
depth is in proportion to their size, or the density 
(solidity must be meant) of the earth over which 
they flow. So that our hills, with some few excep- 
tions, are nothing more or less than clifi's or banks, 
made by the action of the streams : and although 
these cliff's or banks on the rivers or larger creeks, 
approach the size of mountains, yet their tops are 
generally level, being the remains of the ancient 
plain. In the eastern part of the state, some few 
hills are found in sharp ridges, similar to those in 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 299 

the eastern states. The bases of the hills are gene- 
rally composed of limestone, free or sandstone, slate, 
and gravel, admixed with mineral coal, ochre, Sec. " 

The entire valley of Ohio, as well as most other 
parts of the basin of Mississippi, rests on horizontal 
strata, belonging to that formation called by geolo- 
gists floetz or secondary. In 1815 I surveyed Pitts- 
burgh and its environs, and found the rocks so near- 
ly parallel to the horizon, as to scarce admit a 
current from the deep perforations of the coal mines. 
These mines are opened along the sides of the hills, 
and extend inwards on a level with the horizon, and 
about 320 feet above the lower surface of the adja- 
cent rivers. The circumstance most conclusive of 
the fact, that the hills and vallies of this region were 
formed by abrasion, is the uniformity of elevation, 
and similarity of material, of corresponding strata, 
on the opposing banks of the streams : phenomena, 
however, every where visible, in Ohio valley, where 
the nature of the country will admit accurate obser- 
vation. 

The Ohio valley is subdivided by the Ohio river 
into two unequal sections, leaving on the right or 
N. W. side 80,000, and on the left or S. E, side 
116,000 square miles; the Ohio river flowing in a 
deep ravine, and forming a common recipient for 
the water poured down from both slopes. The 
length of the Ohio ravine in a direct line from the 
city of Pittsburgh to the Mississippi river, is 548, 
but by the meanders of the stream 948 miles. 

The peculiar features of this river, and its imme- 
diate banks, have led to most of the gross misrepre- 
sentations respecting the valley in general. The low 
water surface of the Monongahela at Brownsville, 
is 850, and at Pittsburgh 830 feet above the tides in 
Potomac river at Washington city. The apex of the 
hills around Pittsburg are within a small fraction of 
460 feet above low water level in the rivers in the 
same vicinity. These elements give us 830 to be 



300 GEOGllArmCAL VIEW. 

added to 460, or 1290 feet, as the extreme elevation 
of the hills near Pittsburg. The data being in great 
part drawn from actual admeasurement may be con- 
sidered as correct, and combining the result with 
the hypothesis of the whole valley being once an 
inclined and unbroken plain, we are led to the con- 
clusion that about 1300 feet in round numbers was 
once the general elevation of that plain, where the 
Monongahela and Allegany now form the Ohio. 
The plain must have risen considerably higher to- 
wards the Appalachian system, and towards lake 
Erie, and declined slowly towards the Mississippi 
and Illinois rivers ; and such depression, though 
more gradual, must have continued until the land 
sunk under the Gulf of Mexico. 

The elevation of surface at the central junction 
of the Ohio and Mississippi, has not been determined 
with the same precision as has been done respecting 
that near Pittsburgh, but may be estimated with con- 
siderable accuracy from the length of the Mississippi 
below the mouth of Ohio, which is very nearly 1100 
miles. If we allow 3^ inches fall to each mile, we 
shall have 3850 inches, equal to 321 feet within a 
very small fraction, for the height of the country at 
the junction of Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Deduct- 
ing 321 from 830, would leave 509, as the fall in the 
Ohio ; but this sum exceeds the real depression of 
that stream. A very considerably greater fall exists 
from Pittsburg into Chesapeake bay, than into the 
Gulf of Mexico, a seeming anomaly explicable from 
the simplest laws of hydrostatics. When speaking 
of the Gulf of Mexico, in Chapter III, page 86, it 
was stated that this sheet of water was a real reser- 
voir, supplied by the Gulf stream, and evidently 
elevated above any other part of either ocean which 
laves the coast of America. The gulf stream flows 
from the Gulf of Mexico into the Atlantic ocean 
witli great velocity, and the current, though conti- 
nually lessening, is continued from the Bahama chau" 



GEOGKAPHICAI. VIEW. 501 

nel to the coasts of Europe and .Africa, by a curve 
of upvr'ards of six thousand miles ; but if we restrict 
our view to the higher part of tlie tropic current, or 
that from Cuba to Cliesapeake l)ay, or about 1000 
miles, the velocity of the stream must demand at 
least an inch fall per mile, or 83 feet. If this hypo- 
thesis is correctly formed from existing data, then 
is the surface of Chesapeake bay 83 feet depressed 
below that of the Gulf of Mexico, and of course the 
fall of water from Pittsburg into the latter recipient 
only 747. feet. The allowance I made in my geogra- 
phical dictionary on this head, page 476, was 125 
feet, and 1 am now far from being certain, that the 
diminution to 83 feet is better sanctioned by the real 
phenomena. 

It is a fair induction from what has been stated, 
that the valley of Ohio is composed of an inclined 
plain, furrowed by the deep channels of the rivers, 
and chequered by hills and alluvial Hats, the whole 
resting on a floetz or secondary formation. In some 
parts of the basin, particularly in the state of Kentuc- 
ky, the rivers flow in chasms rather than valleys, in 
the true meaning of the latter term. The two op- 
posing slopes present some curious contrasts. Though 
most extensive, the south-eastern slope has no con- 
siderable remains of the ancient plain ; the north- 
western slope on the contrary, contains in the cen- 
tral parts of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, large tracts 
marking unequivocally the primitive state of the 
valley. The confluents of Ohio, which flow from 
the Appalachian mountains, are precipitous torrents 
from their sources, and, as has been already noted, 
pursue their courses in deep channels ; whilst those 
streams which derive their fountains from the north- 
western slope, rise on a continuous plain, in some 
places morass, sluggish tov/ards their sources, but 
gaining velocity as they approach the Ohio, 

The principal confluents of Ohio from the south- 
east.crn slope are, the Monongahcl.i, I-<ittle Kenhawa, 
c c 



302 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Great Guyandot, Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Greene, 
Cumberland and Tennessee. Those flowing from 
the north-west are the Allegany, Beaver, Musking- 
um, Hockhocking, Sciota, Miami and Wabash. Of 
these streams, the Allegany and Monongahela are 
the constituents of Ohio ; the former rising in Penn- 
sylvania and New York, and fed by numerous 
branches, pursues a general course of S. a littleW. 200 
miles, but with a very circuitous channel, and unites 
with the Monongahela at Pittsburgh. The latter 
rises in Virginia at N.lat. 38°, by two branches, the 
Monongahela and Cheat; draining Pocahontas, Lew- 
is, Randolph, Preston, Harrison, and Monongalia 
counties, unites immediately within the southern 
boundary of Pennsylvania, and continuing by a ge- 
neral course nearly north, joins the Allegany, and 
forms the Ohio, after a comparative course of 150 
miles, but perhaps 200 by the windings of the 
streams. 

The sources of the Allegany are the extreme 
north-eastern tributaries of the Mississippi basin, and 
flow from the highest part of the Ohio valley. West- 
ward from the valley of the Allegany, that of the 
Beaver exhibits the commencement of the central 
plain which divides the basins of Mississippi and St. 
Lawrence. This plain stretches v^ est ward, and wi- 
dening in extent over the states of Ohio, Indiana, 
and Illinois, reaches the Mississippi river. In its 
natural state, the valley of Ohio was generally co- 
vered with a very dense forest, but the central plain 
presented an exception. As far east as the sources 
of Muskingum, commenced open savannahs, covered 
with grass, and devoid of timber. Similar to the 
plain itself, those savannahs or prairies expanded to 
the westward, and on the waters of Illinois opened 
into immense natural meadows, generally known 
under the denomination of prairies, from using the 
French word for meadow. 

It has been shown in this article, that Pittsbuvf; 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 303 

was elevated 747 feet above the surface of the Gulf 
of Mexico. Lake Erie has been found 565, and 
Pittsburg 830 feet above tide water in the Atlantic 
bays of Chesapeake, Delaware, Hudson, and St. 
Lawrence ; consequently Pittsburg is elevated 265 
feet above lake Erie; the intermediate distance in a 
direct line, 105 miles. Therefore, if a channel could 
be opened from the level of Ohio at Pittsburg, as 
deep as the bottom of that river, and carrried into 
lake Erie, the water of Allegany and Monongahela, 
in place of flowing toward the Gulf of Mexico, would 
rush into lake Erie with a velocity of 265 feet in 105 
miles, or upwards of 2^ feet per mile. 

A due attention to these mathematically establish- 
ed facts, will enable the reader to comprehend the 
real structure of the higher part of the valley of 
Ohio. Nothing indeed but real admeasurement 
could render credible, that the Allegany river should 
have part of its source within five miles from the 
margin of lake Erie, and after winding from thence 
200 miles, receive a large southern branch, and be 
still 265 feet above the surface of the lake. In fact, 
the Ohio does not sink to the level of lake Erie be- 
fore having flowed as low down as the vicinity of Ma- 
rietta, and the mouth of Muskingum. 

Another feature in the Ohio valley, is in a pecu- 
liar manner interesting; that is, the real slope of its 
surface. At a first glance upon the map, it would 
be naturally supposed that from the sources of Al- 
legany and Monongahela, the plain would depress to- 
wards the final recipient, the Mississippi; but such is, 
however, not the fact. It is well knov/n that, during 
the continuance of spring floods, loaded boats of con- 
siderable size can be navigated from the rapids of 
Ohio at Louisville, by the Ohio, Mississippi, and Il- 
linois rivers into lake Michigan, and to the head of 
Niagara falls, without meeting a single rapid: whilst 
the direct line between the two extremes passes over 
an elevated ridee. 



304 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

We have found the surface of the Mississippi at 
the mouth of the Ohio, elevated 321 feet above the- 
Gulf of Mexico. Lake Michigan is about 35 feet 
higher than lake Erie, or 600 feet above the Atlantic 
tides. In most parts of its course, Illinois river has 
much more the aspect of a winding canal than that 
of a river in the true meaning of the latter term, 
there being only 279 feet fall from the level of lake 
Michigan to the mouth of the Ohio, in a distance of 
520 miles, following the meanders of the rivers; or, 
a small fraction above six inches per mile. These 
elements demonstrate that no part of Illinois river 
is as high as the bottom of Ohio at the mouth of 
Sciota, and only near the vicinity of Cincinnati do the 
two rivers come on the same level; that the great 
original plain sloped from the Appalachian system 
towards the Illinois river and Michigan lake ; and 
that the Ohio triaverses the declination of the inter- 
mediate space obliquely. 

Asa navigable section of the United States, the 
valley of Ohio has some peculiar features. The 
Ohio itself, and its principal source, the Allegany, 
are in a striking manner gentle as respects current, 
and from Hamilton in Cataraugus county. New 
York, to the Mississippi, over a distance of 1158 
miles following the streams, at a moderately high 
flood, meets, except the Rapids at Louisville, with 
not a single serious natural impediment. The Mo- 
nongahela, more impetuous than the Allegany, is 
yet navigable, without falls or rapids, by both 
branches, far into Virginia. Descending the valley, 
the two largest confluents from the south-east, the 
great Kenhawa and Tennessee, rise, by interlocking 
sources, in Ashe county. North Carolina, and flow- 
ing indirectly opposite courses, each reaches its re- 
cipient, the Ohio, by an immense curve, which taken 
together, sweeps round the rivers of Kentucky, and 
some of those of Virginia and Tennessee. Rising on 
the highest Appalachian table land of the United 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 305 

States, at an elevation of at least 2000 feet, the cur- 
rents of both Tennessee and Kenhawa are extremely 
rapid ; the laiter impeded by falls, and the former 
by rapids at the Muscle Shoals, but both navigable 
downwards from near their sources. Though scarce- 
ly reaching the spurs of the Appalachian system, 
the rivers of Kentucky, though generally without 
falls or rapids, have very strong currents arising 
from the great descent of their common slope. 

On the north-west side of the valley, though from 
a different structure, the rivers are also extremely 
rapid. Rising on a table land, from 300 to 1000 feet 
above their mouths, and in no instance having a 
direct course of 300 miles, the streams, though fall- 
ing gradually, are real torrents. The Big Beaver, 
Muskingum, and Hockhocking,have direct falls; but 
the Sciota, Miami, and Wabash, though excessively 
rapid, have neither falls nor cataracts to impede na- 
vigation. 

Taken under one sphere of vision, the Ohio valley 
may be regarded as a great plain inclining from the 
Appalachian system to the N. W., and obliquely 
and deeply cut by the Ohio and its numerous con- 
fluents, into chasms from 460 to nearly the level of 
the streams. In the higher part of the valley, when 
on the rivers, the banks, with the exception of com- 
paratively narrow flats, near the margins, rise by 
bold acclivities into hills which have a mountainous 
aspect. This boldness of outline imperceptibly soft- 
ens descending the Ohio, and, approaching the Mis- 
sissippi, a monotonous ring of level woodland 
bounds the horizon. Ascending the rivers of the 
south-east slope, the scenery becomes more and 
more rugged, until terminating in the ridges of the 
Appalachian chains : on the contrary, if the rivers 
of the north-west slope are ascended, we find the 
landscape broken and varied near the Ohio, but 
around their sources fiat and monotonous. 

The soil, climate, and vegetable productions of 
• c c 2 ' 



506 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Ohio valley are in a remarkable manner diverse. 
The soil, taken generally, may be considered fer- 
tile, but with many places presenting strong excep- 
tions. The level calcareous formation in Kentucky, 
and the wide spread plains of Ohio, Indiana, and 
Tennessee, present extensive tracts where spring- 
xvater is scarce, and wells of very difficult construc- 
tion. Wherever the face of the earth in this valley 
is broken into mountain, hill, or dale, excellent foun- 
tain water abounds. The south-eastern part of the 
valley, bounded north by the sources of the Allega- 
ny to those entering Tennessee from Alabama, and 
from lat. 34° 15' to 42° 30', is, following a direct line 
north-east and south-west, 750 miles. From this 
region, the rivers flow from mountain or very hilly 
sources by deep and precipitous channels, and it 
may be remarked, that from the Monongahela to the 
Tennessee inclusive, whatever may be their courses 
near their sources, the rivers enter the Ohio in 
a direction of a little W. of N. From the head of 
Allegany to the extreme southern bend of Tennes- 
see, both soil and climate, through eight degrees of 
latitude, present an aspect extremely varied. Natu- 
ral and exotic vegetables are also in a very remark- 
able manner generically and specifically diverse ; 
wheat and cotton mingle in the southern extreme, 
and scarce a single useful plant known in Europe 
or America, suitable to the climate, but finds a ge- 
nial soil on this region. ^ There are few timber trees 
known on the continent from N. lat. 34° to 43° but 
what may be found on the streams and hills from Al- 
abama to New York. The most valuable and pro- 
minent are ten or twelve species of oak, at least half 
as many species of pine, and hickory; three or four 
species of maple, one of which, the sugar maple, is of 
incalculable value ; the liriodendron here rises to its 
utmost majesty, if not mass, and may be called the 
pride of the western forest ; towards'New York the 
hemlock rivals the liriodendron in height, if not in 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 307 

elegance. Beside those enumerated, the ash, elm, 
linden, and an immense number of more humble 
trees, shrubs, and vines, vegetate luxuriantly. 

It is along the western spurs of the Appalachian 
system, that advancing from the shores of the Atlan- 
tic to the west, we first find the earth extensively 
abounding in water, holding more or less muriate of 
soda (common salt) in solution. It is a truly remark- 
able fact, that extending a line from Onondaga in 
New York, into Louisiana, with a slight elliptical 
curve towards the Appalachian system, salt wa- 
ter has been found wherever the earth has been 
penetrated to any considerable depth, and in many 
places breaks out to the day in natural springs. 
Works for the extraction of the mineral from the 
fluid solvent, exist from Onondaga to within 8 miles 
from Natchitoches. Iron might also be named as 
the product of the region under review, but that 
most important of all metallic ores abounds so much 
in numerous other places, that happily no one large 
section of the United States, can, in respect to its 
production, claim precedence. 

Next to salt and iron, the south-eastern slope of 
the Ohio valley, particularly to the north-eastward, 
exposes to open day immeasurable strata of bitumi- 
nous coal, thus combining three of the most indis- 
pensably useful minerals — salt, iron, and coal — and 
each in quantities which seem to increase with dis- 
covery and defy exhaustion. 

Differing in aspect from the range we have been 
surveying, the south-western slope of Ohio valley 
is, from the greater monotony of its surface, much 
less productive of mineral treasures, and much less 
diversified in its vegetable species. On similar lati- 
tudes, but trifling difference of climate is perceptible, 
height and exposure being nearly alike. North-west 
from Ohio river iron is found, but not extensively; 
bituminous coal is plentiful along and near Ohio ri- 
ver; and some slight indications of salt and gypsum 



308 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 

occur; but the interior rising and spreading an ini 
mense table land, minerals, if they exist, must lie 
deep, and consequently elude ordinary means of dis- 
covery. 

Taken as a whole, though the Ohio valley com- 
bines numerous advantages, it has been compara- 
tively too highly coloured. The soil on either 
side of the Ohio river is very far from uniform. In 
most essential circumstances, as respects natural 
phenomena, and human economy, strong analogies 
exist between the contiguous parts of the two sec- 
tions of Ohio valley, v/hilst their extremes present 
a complete contrast. It has been an error with tra- 
vellers who merely passed along and near Ohio river, 
to represent the Ohio valley as a country fertile, 
pleasing, and inviting, but of uniform physiognomy; 
but so far, however, from its being so in fact, it 
would be very difficult to find any other equal ex- 
tent of the earth, where natural features are more 
strongly contrasted ; where is every species of sur- 
face from the rugged mountain precipice to plains 
scarce more inclined than the surface of an ocean in 
a calm; where forests almost impenetrably dense, 
are followed by naked prairies; and where rivers 
flow with every degree of rapidity, from perceptible 
motion to the violence of a cataract ; and, in fine, 
where exists almost every diversity of soil, from the 
exuberantly fertile alluvion, to the utmost extent of 
sterility. 

By turning to table 20, it will be seen that the 
valley of Mississippi proper above the Missouri, is 
not so extensive as that of Ohio. The greatest length 
of the former is from the sources of the Mississippi 
river to the junction of that stream with the Mis- 
souri, 750 miles, and its greatest breadth, from the 
sources of Ouisconsin to those of Lemoine river, 350 
miles. 

In our survey of the Ohio valley, we have reached 
the verge of tliose wide spread prairies, savannahs, 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 309 

or Steppes, which more westward dilate until forests 
dwindle to mere clumps or narrow lines along the 
streams, and in the intermediate spaces extend 
grassy wastes, which seem to lengthen as the travel- 
ler speeds over their monotonous surface. It has 
already been noticed in this view, that in its natural 
state, an almost unbroken forest spread over and 
around the Appalachian system of mountains, reach- 
ing to the Atlantic ocean. Gulf of Mexico, and 
stretching over St. Lawrence towards Hudson's 
bay, and westward beyond the Mississippi and Ohio. 
This is, perhaps, the most extensive continuous for- 
est which exists on earth. The human hand has, 
indeed, marked its surface by opening a few spots, 
but the far greater part remains the empire of trees. 
Beyond this wooded region, to the west, follows ano- 
ther, far more extensive, but of very different cha- 
racter. The second or grassy tract is not separated 
from the wooded by any definite limit ; in passing 
from one to the other, the features are so blended 
as to render the transition imperceptible. 

In general, the prairie region is less hilly, moun- 
tainous, or rocky than that of the forest ; but ex- 
ceptions in both cases are frequent. Plains of great 
extent do exist in the latter, and mountains of great 
elevation, mass, and extent, chequer the former 
section. 

From the local features of the country from 
which its sources are derived, the real extreme 
head of the Mississippi continues doubtful. Ac- 
cording to Tanner's Map of North America, this 
river rises at N. lat. 48°36', W. Ion. IS'', interlock- 
ing sources with Red river branch of Assiniboin 
and with the western sources of lake Superior, 
and, pursuing a course of S.S.E. joins the Missouri 
at N. lat. 38° 56', having traversed a. small fraction 
above 9| degrees of latitude. The actual length of 
the Mississippi is still less accurately known than 
the position of its source. Like other central rivers 



310 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

of the United States, the length of the Mississippi 
has no doubt been overrated. Compared on good 
maps, no essential difference in length appears be- 
tween the Ohio and Mississippi, when Allegany is 
added to the former. In this manner Ohio meas- 
ures very near 1200 miles, and no serious error will, 
I am persuaded, arise from assigning a similar 
length to the Mississippi. 

From the right bank the Mississippi receives, ad- 
vancing from source to mouth. Leech-lake river, 
Vermillion, Pine, Corbeau (crow river). Elk and 
Sac, above the Falls of St. Anthony; below the lat- 
ter point are the confluents, St. Peters, Upper 
Iowa, Little Maquaquetois, Galena, Great Maqua- 
quetois. Lower Iowa, and Lemoine. From the left 
in descending, enter Thornberry, Round-lake, Tur- 
tle, Portage, Chevreuill, Prairie, Trout, Sandy- 
lake, St. Francis, and Rum rivers, above St. An- 
thony's Falls; and below that cataract St. Croix, 
Chippeway, Black, Prairie, le Crosse, Ouisconsin, 
Sissinawa, Riviere au Fevre, Rock, Henderson, and 
Illinois. The confluents of the Mississippi, are 
given in great part on the respectable authority of 
Mr. Schoolcraft, who estimates the elevation of the 
sources of that stream at 1330 feet. From com- 
parative length of course, with the Ohio, and from 
other data, the statement of Mr. Schoolcraft ap- 
proaches, it is probable, very near the real eleva- 
tion of that marshy table land, which gives source to 
the southern branch of Assiniboin, and to the Mis- 
sissippi. 

The Ohio, in its north-eastern and extreme 
sources, we have found issuing from an elevated, 
mountainous, and highly variegated country; those 
of the Mississippi, on the contrary, ooze from an 
immense marshy plain, in great part devoid of tim- 
ber. The intervening space between lake Supe- 
rior, and the great inflection of Missouri at the 
Mandan villages, rises by a rapid acclivity to near 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. oil 

TOO feet above the lake, and thence spreads towards 
the Missouri in a level with very little declination 
from the horizon. From the preceding features, 
the sources of the Mississippi have great resem- 
blance to those of the Miami, Sciota, and Wabash 
branches of Ohio. It is indeed a circumstance pe- 
culiar to the Mississippi, that the physiognomy of 
nature around its head and estuary bear so strong 
resemblance. A difference of 19 degrees of lati- 
tude precludes much resemblance in vegetable or 
stationary animal production ; but according to Mr. 
Schoolcraft, who visited the sources in the month of 
July, the migratory water fowl found there at that 
time of the year, are very nearly specifically the 
same, which flock in countless millions over the 
Delta, in December, January, February and March. 
" It is also deserving of remark," says Mr. School- 
craft, " that its sources lie in a region of almost con- 
tinual winter, while it enters the ocean under the 
latitude of perpetual verdure." 

On a view of the particular valley of the Mis- 
sissippi, its general monotony first strikes the eye. 
No chains or groups of mountains, or elevated 
ranges of hills, rise to vary the perspective. Over 
so wide a space as 180,000 square miles, some soli- 
tary elevations do exist, which for want of contrast 
are dignified by the name of mountains; but few con- 
tinuous tracts of equal extent, afford so little diver- 
sity of surface. 

The Mississippi itself is traversed by numerous 
falls of humble perpendicular descent; such is Pe- 
gagama, about mid-way between Sandy and Win- 
nepec lakes, at N. lat. 47° 30'; the Little Falls at 
N. lat. 46°; Big Falls below the mouth of Sac river; 
and those of St. Anthony at N. lat. 45°, immediately 
above the mouth of St. Peter's river. Many places 
along the banks of Mississippi are high, broken, and 
precipitous; but taken as a whole, there is a same- 
ness which strikingly contrasts with the ever vary- 



312 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

ing landscapes, along the higher part of the Ohio, 
and upon the Appalachian streams. 

Extending through 9 degrees of latitude, the 
change of climate in the Mississippi basin is very 
considerable, and the extremes of temperature are 
again augmented by a difference of level of upwards 
of one thousand feet, or an equivalent to at least 2 
degrees of latitude. It has been already shewn, 
that the temperature of similar latitudes and 
heights, lowers advancing westward on the conti- 
nent of North America, and this phenomenon is 
very apparent in passing from the valley of Ohio to 
that of the Mississippi. In point of climate and 
soil, and, lead excepted, mineral production, the 
latter valley is very inferior to the former. Vegeta- 
bles on similar latitudes, either indigenous or exotic, 
do not very materially differ specifically on the two 
valleys. Near the source of the Mississippi, the 
prevalent timber is composed of pine, spruce, ce- 
dar, maple, and white birch. Timber is, however, 
comparatively scarce on this valley, as so much sur- 
face is occupied by prairie, or lakes; extensive lines 
of alluvial soil of great fertility, border the streams, 
particularly the Mississippi itself and Illinois, but 
in no near proportion to the same species of soil in 
the valley of Ohio. 

A species of cerealia, the Zizania aquatica, or as 
it is usually called. Wild Rice, is found over per- 
haps 3,000,000 square miles in N. America, but has 
not yet been cultivated as a domestic grain. This 
grass abounds around the lakes and higher streams 
of the Mississippi, and constitutes a considerable 
part of the food of the native Indians. It would be 
a service done to the human species, if some person 
suitably situated would bring the Zizania aquatica, 
to the test of experiment, and determine whether 
cultivation would not devclope the seed of this 
vegetable, as it has done with other cerealia, such 
ris wheat, rye, catr., barley, rice, and maize. If 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 313 

such an experiment would lead to a favourable re- 
sult, immense regions of interior N. America, would 
admit dense population, which without such a grain 
must continue desolate. 

Missouri, including Osage, Kansas, and Platte 
valleys, would follow in natural order of position the 
vallies of Ohio and Mississippi, but from priority of 
civilized settlement, and the organization of state 
and territory, I have concluded to give a preference 
to the lower valley of Mississippi, with the vallies 
of Red, Arkansas and White rivers. The greatest 
length of the lower Mississippi valley extends about 
1200 miles in a direction from northwest to south- 
east, having the source of the Arkansas and the 
mouth of Red river as extreme points; reaching 
from N. lat. 29° to 42°, and without estimating 
mountain ridges or peaks, differing in relative ele- 
vation at least 5000 feet. If we add the actual dif- 
ference of latitude, 13 degrees, to an allowance of 
10 degrees for relative elevation, the climate at the 
northwest extreme must differ from that of the 
Delta 23 degrees in temperature, and render the 
seasons at the head of Arkansas, as severe as those 
in N. lat. 52° on the Atlantic coast of Labrador. 

From the influx of Missouri, to that of Ohio, the 
volume of the Mississippi rolls, by a general S. S. E. 
course of 140, but by its windings 190 miles; but on 
receiving the Ohio, the main recipient inflects to a 
course of S. S. W. which it pursues 250 miles by 
direct course, but 380 following the bends, to the in- 
flux of White and Arkansas rivers. Turning 
thence to a very little W. of S. crosses three degrees 
of latitude or 210 miles in a direct line, but with 
the sinuosities of the river 360 miles, to the influx of 
Red river, and 1^ miles below the outlet of Atcha- 
falaya. Below the latter point the Mississippi once 
more inflects its general course, and bends to S. Er- 
in which direction it continues bv direct line 220, 
Dd 



314 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

but by the windings of the stream 335 miles, to its 
final discharge into the Gulf of Mexico. 

The preceding elements give to the Mississippi 
below Missouri, a comparative course of 820, and 
an absolute length following the meanders of 1265 
miles. 

Into this main volume as a recipient are poured 
from the north-west, St. Francis, White, Arkansas, 
and Red rivers; and from the south-east, from the 
mouth of the Ohio, Obion, Forked Deer, Big 
Hatche, Loosahatchie, Yazoo, Big Black, and Ho- 
mochitto, with some other streams of lesser note. 

In no other circumstance is the physical geogra- 
phy of any part of the United States more remarka- 
ble, than in the prodigious inequality of the two op- 
posing planes, down which are poured the conflu- 
ents of the Mississippi below the influx of the Ohio. 
The western inclined plane, falling from the Chip- 
pewayan, sweeps over upwards of eight hundred 
miles, whilst the eastern, sloping from Tennessee 
and Mississippi, does not average a mean width of 
one hundred miles. The rivers which drain the 
two slopes are in respective length of course, pro- 
portionate to the extent of their planes of descent; 
whilst Red river exceeds a comparative course of 
800, the Arkansas of 1000, and White river of 400, 
the longest stream from the opposite slope falls 
short of 200 miles. The alluvion brought down by 
such volumes as those of White, Arkansas, and Red 
rivers, explains satisfactorily, the reason why the 
Mississippi infringes so often on the eastern, and no 
where below the Ohio touches the western blufls. 

The lower valley of the Mississippi, is the most 
variegated section of the United States. Every.forni 
of landscape, every trait of natural physiognoniv, 
and an exhaustless quantity, with an illimitable spe- 
cific diversity of vegetable and metallic production, 
are found upon this extensive region. Flanked on 
the east by a dense forest, and on the west by the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 315 

naked ridges and spines of the Chippewayan, the 
deep entangled woods of the Mississippi, are set in 
relief, against the expansive prairies of Arkansas 
and Red river. The marshes of the Delta scarcely 
rising above the Gulf of Mexico, form one extreme, 
upon which, wherever the soil is arable, rise the 
orange tree and sugar cane, with many other vege- 
tables, reminding the traveller that he is on the verge 
of a tropical zone ; on the other hand, the Arkan- 
sas is seen to draw its impetuous sources from the 
cold and sterile plains and vales of the Chippe- 
wayan. In the Delta, we behold the fierce but 
sluggish alligator watching for his prey, whilst on 
the mountain streams of the north west, we behold 
the argali, the antelope, wild deer and buffaloe, 
breathing and bounding in native freedom. 

It is here also, that man himself experiences the 
utmost extremes of health and disease ; it is here 
in ranging from one limit to the other, he trembles 
and dreads to encounter sickness and death in the 
Delta, but feels the utmost pleasure of healthful an- 
imation on the wide spread, elevated and dry plains 
of Arkansas and Texas. It is here, that even now 
are seen the utmost contrasts that civilized modes 
of life can assume. In New Orleans and its vicinity, 
splendor, luxury, and indolence, superinduced by the 
climate, and fostered by wealth, and I might say by 
literature, where action is pain unless stimulated 
by pleasure, are followed in western Louisiana and in 
Texas, by the infinitely more animated, dare 1 say 
infinitely more happy life of the pastoral horseman. 
Free as the plains over which they roam, and 
nerved by an air of unequalled purity, these ever 
active sons of the chase, know no luxury beyond 
their herds, nor sigh for any distinction but that of 
mounting and managing their steeds with most 
adroitness. They are the Tartars of North Amer- 
ica. The mind cannot but dwell upon the physical 
similitude between the desert steppes of central 



316 GEOGKAPHICAL VIEW. 

Asia and these interior prairies, and the still stronger 
resemblance which does and ever must continue to 
exist between the inhabitants of those distant re- 
gions. 

If the minor parts of this great natural section of 
the Mississippi basin are reviewed in detail, the 
most prominent object is the Arkansas. If the 
Missouri is viewed as the first in magnitude amongst 
the confluents of the Mississippi, the second rank is 
due to the Arkansas, it being longer, and draining^ 
more surface than either the Ohio, Mississippi 
proper, or Platte. The actual remote sources of 
the Arkansas remain unknown, but must extend to 
near N. lat. 42°, and Ion. 34° W., and entering the 
Mississippi at 33° 56', and Ion. 14° 10' W.,passes over 
8° of lat. and 20° of Ion. with a comparative course 
of 1400, and following its bends a length of at least 
2000 miles. This really great river is navigable 
about 600 miles, but issuing from an elevated and 
mountainous region, its main volume and numerous 
branches are much impeded by shoals and cata- 
racts ; but below the mouth of Canadian Fork,, 
though passing through a minor chain of moimtains, 
the Arkansas rolls its stream of about 600 yards 
wide, with great depth, to the Mississippi. 

Next in the volume and length of course to the 
Arkansas is Red river, which like its rival flows 
from hidden fountains in the mountains of Santa Fe. 
If the information given by Major Long be correct, 
and it is entitled to great credit. Red river rises 
from N. lat. 32° to 35°, and from 25° to 28° W. 
By comparative courses this stream flows over 
about 1000, but by its meanders exceeds m length 
1500 miles. 

Both Arkansas and Red rivers have their peri- 
odical annual swell, and enter their recipient in 
seasons of flood, with immense volumes, which con- 
tribute largely to that enormous mass of water 
which every spring flows over Louisiana i'jto the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 317 

Gulf of Mexico. Impregnated by saline particles, 
and coloured by ochreous earth, the waters of these 
two rivers are at once brackish and nauseous to the 
taste, particularly near their mouths; that of Red 
river so much so, that at Nachitoches at low water 
it cannot be used even for culinary purposes. 

White river entering from the same side, 20 miles 
above Arkansas, though humble when compared 
with Arkansas and Red rivers, is nevertheless a 
stream of considerable magnitude, draining the 
space between the Arkansas, Osage, Missouri, Mis- 
sissippi and St. Francis rivers. With an entire 
comparative course of 400 miles. White river by 
its numerous branches, waters a fine tract of country 
nearly equally divided between the state of Missouri 
and the territory of Arkansas. 

St. Francis and Merrimac, the first entering the 
Mississippi 36 miles below the mouth of Missouri, 
and the second 287 miles following the bends below 
the mouth of Ohio, are both fine streams, though 
humble when compared with the lengthened Ar- 
kansas and Red rivers, or even White river, but 
gaining consequence as flowing from the lead dis- 
trict of Missouri, and from affording navigable chan- 
nels from fertile and improving districts of country. 

St. Francis rises in Madison, Washington and St. 
Francis counties, Missouri, by numerous branches 
which pursue a general course S. E. 60 miles, winds 
then S. and S. S. W., forms in that direction for 
about 35 miles part of the boundary between Miss- 
ouri and Arkansas, enters the latter, and continuing 
S. S. W., falls into the Mississippi at 34° 33' N. lat. 
287 miles below the mouth of Ohio, after a compar- 
ative course of 250 miles. 

The Merrimac derives great part of its conse- 
quence from rising in the mine district, Washington 
county, Missouri, between the sources of St. Francis 
and Gasconade, from which it flows by comparative 
courses 100 miles, and enters Missouri 18 miles be- 
low St, Louis. 

D d 2 



313 GEOGRAPHICAJL VIEW. 

The small rivers of the eastern slope, the Obion, 
Forked Deer, the two Hatches, Wolf, Yazoo, Big 
Black and Homochitto, have nothing to merit par- 
ticular notice in so brief a view. 

The Mississippi proper, being first discovered, has 
by prescription, given name to the basin, though the 
Missouri and its confluents drain nearly one half the 
entire surface. In our survey of the Ohio, Missis- 
sippi proper, and the lower confluents of that 
stream, we have been slowly emerging from the 
Appalachian woods, and opening our way to the in- 
terminable plains of the Chippewayan. Reaching 
the thousand streams of the Missouri, wastes of 
grass and thorny opuntia, mock the eye and defy 
the toil of the traveller. 

Missouri rises, in v/hat is with unparalleled ab- 
surdity called Rocky Mountains, a part of the great 
Chippewayan system. The stream called by pre- 
eminence Missouri, is not the main branch, if our 
maps are even in a tolerable manner correct. The 
Yellow Stone river is longer than its rival above 
their junction, and receives also larger and longer 
confluents. Assuming, however, as the sources of 
Missouri, Madison's and Jefferson's rivers, that 
great stream rises atN. lat. 44°, Ion. 30° W. The 
general course for about 120 miles is N. E. receiv- 
ing in that distance several tributary streams ; 
thence turns N. 120 miles, and about N. lat. 46° 
20' is augmented by Dearborne's river from the N. 
W- It thence curves N. E. 80 miles, to the influx 
of Maria's river from the N. W., and turning east 
150, and thence north east 150, joins the Yellow 
Stone river from the south west. 

The Yellow Stone river rises in the Chippewayan 
atN. lat. 42°, Ion. 30° W. and flowing thence by 
comparative courses about 800 miles, unites witli 
the Missouri atN. lat. 48" 10', Ion. 24° 20' W., and 
is evidently the main branch. Estimated however, 
by either branch, and by the windings of the 



t EO G ii :, P H I C A L V 1 E \v . S 1 9 

streams, the Missouri has here flowed above the 
mouth of Yellow Stone river upwards of 1000 miles, 
and drained at least 150,000 square miles. Its vol- 
ume is here perhaps but little, if any, less wide or 
deep than at the junction with the Mississippi. A 
few miles below the influx of the Yellow Stone, the 
Missouri has reached its utmost northern bend 48° 
20'; and curves by a regular sweep of 200 miles to 
the Mandan villages. It is along the intermediate 
space from the Yellow Stone to the Mandan towns, 
that on the left side many of the sources of Assini- 
boin rise, within from 1 to 5 miles from the mar- 
gin of Missouri, Immediately above the Mandan 
villages, this now large river, assumes a general 
southern course over 4j degrees of lat. or 300 miles, 
receiving from the left only a few unimportant 
creeks, but from the right, Cannon Ball, Wetarhoo, 
Sarwarcarna, Chayenne, Teton and V/hite rivers. 
Below the influx of White river, the Missouri in- 
flects to a general but very winding course of S. E. 
300 miles to its junction v/ith Platte ; and thence 
S. S. E. 200 miles to ihe influx of Kansas river. 

The Platte and Kansas are two great confluents 
rising in the Chippewayan, and flowing, by compa- 
rative courses, generally to the eastward, the former 
700, and the latter 600 miles. The Kansas joins its 
recipient on the western boundary of the state of 
Missouri, N.lat. 39° 05^ long. 17° 31' W. Receiving 
the Kansas, and entering the state of Missouri, the 
Missouri inflects taa little S. of E. 250 miles to its 
junction with the Mississippi, after an entire com- 
parative course of 1870, but by the meanders at 
least 3000 miles. 

It may be observed, by reference to a map of that 
part of the United States, that the confluents of Mis- 
souri, of any considerable length, are all from the 
right; and that those from the left, below Yellow 
Stone river, with the single exception of Jacques 
river, have courses comparatively falling short of 



320 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

250, and very few amounting to 100 miles. Below 
the Kansas, from the right, the only rivers demand- 
ing particular notice are the Osage and Gasconade; 
the former a stream issuing in the plains between 
Grand river branch of the Arkansas and the Kan- 
sas, and flowing by comparative courses 300 miles, 
in a direction of N. E. by E., joining the Missouri 
at very near the centre of the state of the same 
name, N. lat. 38® 32', long. 14° 50' W. 

The Gasconade is a small, but from its position 
an important stream, rising in the southern part of 
Missouri, between the sources of White and Osage 
rivers, flowing by comparative courses 120 miles, 
in a direction a little E. of N., and falling into Mis- 
souri river in the county of Gasconade. 

The preceding account of the Missouri and its 
confluents is, from the state of our geographical 
knowledge, very general. As high as the Mandan 
villages,Liewis and Clarke, Stoddard, Brackenridge, 
Bradbury, and others have given tolerable ample 
notices of the main stream; but with all that has 
yet been published a feeble and uncertain light has 
been thrown on these immense regions. 

The greatest length of the valley of Missouri ex- 
tends from the mouth of that stream to the head of 
Maria's river 1200 miles, its greatest breadth from 
the sources of the Platte, to a short distance south- 
east from the Mandan villages, 700 miles, with an 
area of 523,000 square miles; equal to 334,000,000 
of statute acres. 

If we imagine tliis vast space en grasped by one 
sweep of vision, three remarkable features must 
command pre-eminence; first, the turbid character 
of the water; secondly, the very unequal volumes 
of the right and left confluents; and thirdly, the 
immensity of the open prairies over the river lines 
of forest. In the direction of the rivers, the inclined 
plain of Missouri exceeds 800 miles from the val- 
lies of the Chippewayan, and rather more than that 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 321 

distance from S. to N. from the southern branches 
of Kansas to the extreme heads of the northern 
confluents of the valley. Ascending from the lower 
verge of this widely extended plain, wood becomes 
more and more scarce, until one naked surface 
spreads on all sides. Even the ridges and chains of 
the Chippewayan partake of these traits of desola- 
tion. The traveller, who has read the descriptions 
of central Asia, by Tooke or Pallas, will feel, on the 
higher branches of Missouri, a resemblance at once 
striking and appalling. He will feel and regret how 
much of the earth's surface is doomed to irremedi- 
able silence, and he will acknowledge, if near the 
Chippewayan in winter, that the utmost intensity of 
frost over Siberia and Mongolia has its full counter- 
part in North America, on similar if not on lower 
latitudes. 

If those of the Yellow Stone are included, the 
sources of Missouri rise along the Chippewayan 
through eight degrees of latitude, or near 600 miles, 
and it is very worthy of notice that the far largest 
tributaries rise in comparatively a southern and 
flow north-east to a northern latitude, and that the 
main volume has actually flowed 1300 miles before 
it regains the latitude of the extreme southern 
sources of Yellow Stone river. 

But of all the characteristics which distinguish 
the Missouri and its confluents, the few direct falls 
or even rapids is certainly the most remarkable. 
Between Dearborne's and Maria's rivers the Mis- 
souri leaves the Chippewayan, by rolling over ledges 
of rock for a distance of 18 miles; after which this 
overwhelming mass of water, though every where 
flowing with great rapidity, nowhere swells into a 
lake, or rolls over a single cataract in a distance of 
at least 3500 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. If, there- 
fore, the Amazon is excepted, the Missouri and its 
continuation the Mississippi afford the most ex- 
tended uninterrupted line of river navigation which 
has ever been discovered. 



322 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

Embracing a considerable fraction above the one- 
eightieth part of the land area of the earth, and dif- 
fering in level from about 400 to perhaps 10,000 
feet above the oceanic level. Rejecting, however, 
the mountain peaks and ridges, and allowing an ele- 
vation of 5000 feet to the table land of Chippeway- 
an at N. lat. 47°, we have a difference in height 
equal to 10 degrees of latitude, which add^d to 8 de- 
grees the actual extremes, will yield 18 degrees as 
the change of temperature from the junction of the 
Missouri with the Mississippi to the mountain vales 
from which the sources of the former are derived. 

The arable surface of the Missouri valley bears, 
it must be acknowledged, a very diminished rank 
when compared with its great extent. The state 
of Missouri extending over 63,000 square miles, 
with about one half, or 31,500 square miles, in the 
Missouri valley, if the advantage of climate is 
added to that of soil, has, it is probable, one-fourth 
part of the productive arable surface of the whole 
valley. 

With the exception of the alluvial banks of the 
streams, the soil is, as far as correct information has 
been given, dry and sterile, which superadded to 
the want of timber, and in many places to great ex- 
tent the want of fresh water, any considerable den- 
sity of population over the whole valley is impossi- 
ble. 

The mineral treasures may, in some respects, 
compensate for asperity of soil and scarcity of wood. 
On viewing the very extensive masses of iron ore 
and mineral coal, laid open to the day along the 
Missouri, Mr. Bradbury expressed himself in rap- 
tures. So small a part, it is true, however, has 
been examined with any care, by even Mr. Brad- 
bury himself, that no conclusive deductions can be 
drawn of the natural history of the Missouri valley 
until scientific research has been more extensively 
employed to explore its vegetable and mineral re- 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW, 323 

To close the survey of the Mississippi basin it re- 
mains to explain briefly the general laws by which 
the great annual flood of that basin is regulated. 
Without a previous knowledge of the relative height 
of the extremes, and the relative extent and geo- 
graphic position of the component vallies,no correct 
knowledge of the Mississippi floods can be obtained. 
Comparing the great extent of the entire basin, and 
the incalculable number of its rivers, with the mo- 
derate elevation and long continuance of spring 
floods, the mind is naturally led to inquire into the 
causes of effects at once salutary to man and appa 
rently anomalous. But when we recur to a good 
map of the basin, we perceive it subdivided into the 
four vallies which we have surveyed; Ohio, Missis- 
sippi proper, lower Mississippi, and Missouri. 

If we were to regard the geographic position of 
the vallies relatively, and were unaided by a sin- 
gle fact drawn from an experience of their annual 
rise, it would follow from theory, that no simulta- 
neous spring flood is possible, but that the water of 
each valley must drain out separately. It would 
again appear, that in the breaking up of winter, the 
water of the same valley is drawn from its recesses 
gradually. It has been observed in this view that 
rivers flowing from the poles towards the equator, 
can never be as destructive in their inundations as 
those whose courses are in the opposite direction; 
the reasons of which phenomenon are evident, and 
peculiarly so in the case of the Mississippi basin. 
Red river, the most southern, is also the first of the 
great branches of the Mississippi which discharges 
its waters on the Delta, and is followed by the Ar- 
kansas. It is remarkable that the Ohio and Arkan- 
sas, remote as they are from each other, are the two 
streams of the whole basin which most uniformly 
emit their flood at the same time, and are the streams, 
with some addition from Mississippi proper, which 
give the highest and most durable flood to the 
Delta. 



324 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

The Mississippi proper flowing so nearly north 
and south, spring thaws commence near the mouth 
and retrograde slowly towards the source, and con- 
sequently the discharge is gradual. Similar remarks 
apply also to the Ohio and Arkansas, and thus 
lengthen the duration and moderate the quantity in 
a given time of water on the Delta. 

In common years. Red river flows out in Febru- 
ary or early in March, but occasionally continues 
high from December until late in the ensuing spring. 
The great flood from Arkansas, Ohio, and Missis- 
sippi proper commences generally early in March, 
and attains it full height on the Delta about the mid- 
dle of June; abating from the latter period, has 
greatly subsided by the end of July or beginning of 
August, when the retarded overflow of Missouri 
completes by its arrival the annual inundation. 

Though the period of flood is well known to the 
inhabitants of the Delta, and in common years can 
be calculated within a few days, such is, however, 
the inequality of the seasons over the whole basin, 
that no length of experience gives any probable in- 
timation of the quantity or elevation. In 1800, and 
in 1801, the waters of the Mississippi did not attain 
the height of the banks. 

From the geographical sketch which immediate- 
ly precedes this chapter, at page 296, it may be 
seen that the Delta commences with the efflux of 
Atchafalaya on the right, but on the left with the 
outlet of the Iberville. In both cases the surplus 
water discharged from the main stream never re- 
turns, but is conveyed on one side into the Atchafa- 
laya and other recipients, and on the other into 
lakes Pontchartrain, Borgne, and Chandeleur bay. 

Connected with the general inundation is the very 
unfounded but general opinion that the Mississippi 
river can and does occasionally change its bed, and 
that it flows on a comparative ridge. 'J'he bed of 
the Mississippi, like that of all other rivers, is the 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. o'2S 

lowest depression of the country through which i£ 
flows. As high as the efflux of La Fourehe the 
stream is 130 feet deep at low water, and at a simi- 
lar state 75 or 80 at Natchez. At New Orleans 
the depth exceeds 100 feet. From the immediate 
margin of this great mass of water the country falls 
by a very slow depression, and the bottom of the 
deepest lakes, Pontchartrain, Maurepas, Quacha., 
Chetim aches, and others, vary from 4 or 5 to la 
or 20 feet below the general level of the Delta,, 
leaving the bottom of the Mississippi upwards of 
100 feet below that of Pontchartrain, or any other 
lake of Louisiana, except those formed in the fol- 
lowing manner. 

The sweeping bends of the Mississippi cause the 
volume of its water to recurve upon itself, and by 
the double abrasion on its opposite side a neck or 
isthmus is cut through, and thus far a new channel 
formed, and the ancient bend, though assuming 
the aspect of a lake, still attests its origin by its 
proximity, great depth, and perfect resemblance 
to the bends of the parent stream. Of the lat- 
ter species of lakes, Fausse Riviere, Homochitta, 
and Yazoo, were produced within the range of his- 
tory; those of Concordia, St. John's, St. Joseph's, 
Providence, and Grand lakes, were found in their 
existing gtate when Louisiana was colonized by the 
French. With the' exceptions I have stated, the 
Mississippi can no more recede from its channel 
than could the Hudson, Delaware, or Susquehannah; 
the barriers which confine the latter to their chan- 
nels are more prominent, but not less irremoyeable 
or impenetrable, than is the extended alluvion which 
spreads from the former river. 



E e 



526 



CHAPTER XL 

BASIN OF COLUMBIA, OR TERRITORY OP ORE- 
GON. 

That imperfectly explored territory of the Uni- 
ted States, admits of but bald description, though in 
itself, in point of extent, an empire. By the treaty 
of 1821, between the United States and Spain, Ore- 
gon is bounded south by N. lat. 42°; on the north 
the limit was fixed by convention with Russia, at 
N. lat. 54° 40', stretching along the Pacific 880, and 
inland at a mean of about 500 miles, comprising 
440,000 square miles, lying between 30° and 54° 
40', W. long. 

The explored parts of Oregon are drained by 
the numerous confluents of one great river, the Co- 
lumbia. From the little that is distinctly known, 
the basin of Columbia is limited on the east by the 
Chippewayan system of mountains, and traversed 
near the shores of the Pacific, by another system 
yet nameless. From analogy, are we not w*arranted 
in considering the western Columbian mountain 
system as the extension of that which forms the 
peninsula of California, and which, extending in a 
N. N. W, direction, skirts the Pacific, occa- 
sionally broken by the river vallies of which the 
Columbia is the principal ? 

Between the two systems, at about N. lat. 54°, 
and 40° W., rises the extreme northern source of 
Columbia, which flowing S. upwards of 400 miles, 
unites with Clark's river from the N. E. Below 
the junction of its two great branches, Columbia 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 327 

assumes a S. W. course 200 miles; receives at N. 
lat. 46° 10', Lewis' river from the N. E., and at 
about N. lat. 46** turns to the W., which course it 
maintains 300 miles to its egress into the Pacific 
ocean at N. lat. 46° 15', long. 47° 53' W, 

On the eastern side of the western system of 
mountains, the Columbia receives the Multnomah, 
a large branch from the S. or S. E. The latter, 
except for perhaps 100 miles above its mouth, re- 
mains unexplored, but from its breadth and volume 
evinces a remote source, which remains yet to trace. 

The extreme northern sources of Columbia inter- 
lock with those of Saskashawan, perhaps with 
those of Unjiga, or Peace river. Clark's river rises 
by numerous branches in the Chippewayan moun- 
tains, interlocking sources with those of Missouri, 
and Saskashawin; the extreme southern sources 
rise at N. lat. 45°, and long. 34° 36' W.; flowing 
thence first nearly due north, but gradually curving 
to S. W. joins the Columbia after a comparative 
course of upwards of five hundred miles. 

Lewis' river rises at N. lat. 40°, Ion. 30° W. in- 
terlocking sources with those of Arkansaw, Platte 
and Yellow Stone rivers; pursues thence a general 
N. W. course of 650 miles, receives a large tribu- 
tary, the Kooskooskee river, from the east, turns to 
the W. and unites with the Columbia after a com- 
parative course of 800 miles. If not superceded by 
the Multnomah from future discovery, Lewis' river 
is the main constituent branch of Columbia. 

The Multnomah, as already observed, draws its 
waters from a terra incognita. Spanish travellers 
have discovered north from the Colorado of Califor- 
nia, two rivers, the Rio de Buenaventura, and Rio 
San Clementina, flowing from the Chippewayan, 
but final discharge unknown. The most northerly, 
the San Clementina, the Timpanogos, or the Mon- 
gos of Tanner's North America, is by many sup- 
posed the extreme south-east source of Multnomah, 



328 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 

and if so, that branch of Columbia rises at N. lat» 
41°^ Ion. 34*^ W. and must have a comparative 
course of upwards of seven hundred miles, and will, 
thus extended, compete for precedence with Lewis' 
river. 

Those four great confluents, Columbia proper, 
Clark's river, Lewis' river and Multnomah form 
the very peculiar river of Oregon, which in length, 
if estimated by Columbia proper, exceeds 1000, 
by Clark's river 1000, by Lewis' river perhaps 
1100, and by the Multnomah at least 900 miles. In 
relative height the surface of the Oregon basin falls 
from the plateau of the Chippewayan, at least 
3370 feet, to the level of the Pacific ocean. Down 
this rapid descent the rivers are precipitated over 
numerous falls and cataracts. The tide penetrates 
inland through the western system of mountains, 
and following the windings of the stream upwards 
of 100 miles. The bay at the mouth opening be- 
tween capes Adams on the S. E. and Disappoint- 
ment on the N. W. The entrance with about 26 
feet water, is easterly about 20, and thence south- 
easterly to the mouth of Multnomah, sustaining 
thus far a depth of at least 20 feet. 

The face of the Oregon basin as far as explored 
is far from promising. Much of the country is 
broken by mountains or stretches in naked plains. 
Some fine vallies though of confined extent spread 
between the chains, and in respect to climate the 
Oregon territory possesses a decided advantage 
over that of similar latitudes on the Atlantic coast, 
to the amount of perhaps 5 or 6 degrees of latitude. 
See Chapter X. on Climate, An isothermal line 
drawn from the mouth of Columbia would incline 
rapidly to the south-east, in rising to the plateau of 
Chippewayan, and allowing that plateau 3870 feet 
elevation, the line of equal heat would reach N. lat, 
3"° 50', supposing 400 feet elevation equal to a de- 
gree of latitude; and waving from the suniniits of 
Chippewayan towards tl\e Atlantic, would in no 



GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW. 329 

place again inflect as high as its point of outset from 
the Pacific coast. 

From this melioration of temperature, the terri- 
tory of Oregon, every thing else being equal, will be 
more habitable than similar latitudes on the Atlan- 
tic coast of the United States ; and the Columbia 
much more accessible in winter, than the rivers 
and havens of Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Sco- 
tia and Maine, or in fact even those of the Atlantic 
coast generally, as low as the Delaware. By refer- 
ence to the comparative tables of mean heat on the 
opposing sides of the Atlantic Ocean, it will be seen 
that advancing from N. lat. 30° towards the nor- 
thern pole, the line of equal temperature in- 
clines to N. E. and S. W. from a small fraction 
above to 14^ degrees, giving to the coast of Maine 
a climate not materially different from that of Nor- 
way, in N. lat. 60° But mere mean temperature 
gives a very inadequate idfea of the respective cli- 
mates on the eastern and western sides of the two 
continents. The moisture of winter on western 
coasts, leaves rivers open much higher, than could 
be expected from any data alForded by the ther- 
mometer. 

The remote region of Oregon, appears at present 
as if on another planet. From the elements in table 
10, page 76, it appears that a line drawn from Cape 
Hatteras to the mouth of Columbia river, would 
measure 2702 statute miles, and that the middle 
point on such a line, would be found in the valley of 
Missouri, 200 miles N. 73° 34' W. from the Council 
Bluffs. The immensity of the territory of the Uni- 
ted States may be faintly conceived by the fact, that 
St. Louis on the Mississippi, is not one third of the 
distance from Cape Hatteras to the mouth of Co- 
lumbia, and that if the whole surface was inhabited 
and subdivided into organised states, the capital, if 
central, would stand upwards of 600 miles in a di- 
rect line N. W. from St. Louis, By any practica- 
r. e 2 



330 GEOGRAPHICAL VIEV/. 

ble route, it would be upwards of 3000 miles from 
Washington City to the mouth of Columbia, and 
when in the progress of improvement such a route 
is opened, it will in its interminable range and rami- 
fications, realize in America a picture similar to the 
vast inland commercial roads and channels of Asia. 

If due attention is given to the inevitable advance 
of settlement and population, the mouth of Columbia 
presents an opening from the Pacific, on which an 
American emporium must rise. It is only neces- 
sary to combine the philosophy of American history 
to the relative physical position of Western North 
America, Polynesia, and south-eastern Asia, to have 
some foresight of the destiny of Oregon. 

We have now completed a rapid survey of that 
wide portion of the habitable earth, comprising the 
domain of the United States. As far as the limits 
of " The r/ew," and the existing geographical data 
would admit, we have sketched the great features 
of central North America; the mountains, rivers 
and interior plains have passed in review, and we 
proceed to an examination of the Meteorological 
phenomena, or a View of the Climate of the United 
States. Before, however, quitting the subject of 
our physical geography, I cannot but notice the im- 
mense tract of unexplored territory which exists in 
the northern regions of Mexico, the western part of 
the United States, and still more extensive regions 
claimed by Russia. If we commence with N. lat. 
30*^, and stretch to Bhering's strait, we have a band 
of 3000 miles in length, with a mean width of at 
least 600 miles, or an area of 1,800,000 square miles, 
of which the civilized world knows with precision, 
the Pacific coast, and perhaps not the one hun- 
dredth part of the interior. Except a single expe- 
dition performed under the auspices of Mr. Jeffer- 
son, what has the government of the United States 
done to give to science a knowledge of, if climate is 
considered^ the one twentieth part of the habitable 
eartli ? 



CHAPTER X. 

CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The meteorological phenomena of the United 
States, comprising so large a section of the earth, 
can not be comprehended, except when taken in 
connexion with the atmospheric changes of not 
alone the continent of America, but with those of 
the whole planet. 

The extent of the United States' territory, as a 
physical portion of the earth, has been given in 
Chap. IL page 57, In relative position it extends 
from N. lat. 24° 47' to N. lat. 51°, and from 10° E. 
to 51° W. long. Having a long, and, as respects- 
the meridians, an oblique front on the Atlantic; 
ocean, and occupying a nearly central position in 
the northern temperate zone, the climate of the 
United States must present some peculiarities, but 
leaving its general phenomena subject to those xm'ir 
versal laws which regulate atmospheric revolution.. 
Before entering on the subject of this chapter, some 
preparatory remarks may not be, however, irrele- 
vant on the sources from which the data have beea 
derived, and on the particular confidence due to the 
thermometer as a philosophical instrument. " Ther- 
mometrical observations depend so much on the 
place where the instruments are fixed; from* their 
relative situation in respect to the most prevalent 
winds; and on the hours of observation, that their 
results can be admitted as comparative estimates 
only when the philosopher who undertakes to recon- 
cile th.em is certain that they have been made near- 
ly in a uniform manner, "* 

* Jules de Wallenstein, Trans. Am. Phil. Soc. New 
Series, vol. ii. pag-e 433. 



332 CLIMATE OF 

It is with regret that I am compelled% admit a 
very great discrepancy in thermometrical observa- 
tions in the United States, and that besides other 
defects in the mode of conducting them, they are 
made too exclusively whilst the sun is above the ho- 
rizon; but with the necessary allowance for uncon- 
nected and untimely observation, the thermometer 
affords an excellent means of comparing the general 
temperature of different and distant places, and is, 
Avhen even used rather unskilfully, an infinitely su- 
perior dependance to mere hypothesis. Thermo- 
metrical observations in any case, however, to have 
full efficacy in the formation of a theory of climate, 
must be taken in connexion with prevalent winds. 
It was the utter neglect of these criteria, and of 
relative height, which rendered Volney's View so 
obnoxious to criticism. " The observations which I 
have made until the present time, accord so little 
with the conclusions of M. de Volney on the climate 
of Washington, and I am so little disposed to hazard 
assertions against so renowned an author, though 
he has himself given me the example, that I prefer 
employing myself rather to a redoubled attention to 
my own researches, than to risk imitating him if he 
has been too rash in his conjectures, or not to resem- 
ble him if he has carefully observed what he has 
stated to have examined."* 

The playful but just censure of M. de Wallen- 
stein I am bold enough to adopt, and extend to the 
United States, and rest my sustaining the charge 
on the enclosed document. 

From causes, in the detail of which the reader 
cannot be interested, I have been with not many 
intervals of rest, upwards of thirty years engaged 
in pursuits, which led to an attention to the changes 



* Jules de Wallenstein, Trans. A. P. S. New Scries, 
vol. ii. pug'e 426. 



THE UNITKD STATES. oo,» 

of the seasons, and my comparisons have extended 
over the United States from the 29th to the 45th of 
N. lat. 

Volney's treatise on the Climate of the United 
States, fell into my hands early in life, and then ex- 
cited strong doubts of the philosophical accuracy of 
many conclusions drawn by that author, and in par- 
ticular, of a mysterious mildness of climate in the 
Mississippi basin. In opposition to the theory of 
Volney, I witnessed the annual freezing of rivers 
west of the mountains, to an extent greatly in ex- 
cess over similar operations of nature on like lati- 
tudes on the Atlantic coast. The destructive influ- 
ence of frost on vegetation was also brought before 
my eyes annually, which, with long tedious winters 
and deep and durable snows, all united to excite 
more than doubts, respecting a pretended high tem- 
perature. On the first reading of Volney's View, 
1 could not avoid observing, that his stay in the 
country was utterly too short to admit the collec- 
tion of facts from others, much less to make obser- 
vations of his own ; but of all objections to this au- 
thor, the most conclusive is, his entire disregard of 
the influence of relative height on aerial tempera- 
ture. This omission must at once decide his unfit- 
ness for the investigation of the subject of climate, 
either general or special. The following pages and 
tables taken from actual observation, will determine 
how far the winters of central North America de- 
serve a character of superior mildness. 

There are four means of determining relative 
temperature : first, the occurrence and duration of 
snow; second, freezing of water; third, eff'ect of 
frost on vegetation ; and fourthly, thermometers of 
various construction. 

Of the three first, it will be needless to descant in 
this place, their effects will be adduced in the course 
of the chapter; but the thermometer having come into 
such very general use, demands some inquiry how 



334 CLIMATE OF 

far its results are entitled to confidence in settling- 
questions of comparative climate. The validity of 
results drawn from this instrument as the observa- 
tions are usually conducted, has been called in ques- 
tion by high authority. In the Quarterly Journal of 
Science, London, October 1821, page 97, Mr. J, F. 
Daniel observes, that " Mr. Howard in his late la- 
borious work on the climate of London, has shewn 
the proper use to be made of such accumulations of 
facts. It is only by collecting the means of differ- 
ent seasons, thereby neutralizing errors of observa- 
tion and accidental irregularities; by arranging 
them in periods chosen according to the influence of 
particular circumstances ; and by carefully collect- 
ing and comparing them, however tedious the ope- 
ration, that we can hope to arrive at certain conse- 
quences, and useful results from the preliminary 
labour. Many, indeed, appear at present to be ob- 
servers of meteorological phenomena to judge by the 
registers, which regularly contribute their exple- 
tive powers, to every magazine and journal which 
issues from the press ; but for want of proper di- 
rection and concert, their perseverance, it is to be 
feared, is wholly fruitless. The observers them- 
selves, rarely attempt to reason upon their observa- 
tions, and no one will ever be found willing to sacri- 
fice his time in arranging volumes of materials, when 
the very accuracy of the instruments, with which 
they have been collected, may be doubted. 

" But who can wonder at this want of co-operation, 
or to whom shall we look to turn this labour into a 
useful channel, when even the correctness of the 
tables, published in the transactions of the Royal 
Society, has been publicly called in question by Mr, 
Howard, Mr. Dalton, and Dr. Thomson.^ The pa- 
rade of such observations, when confidence in their 
care (the observers') has once been suspended, is 
worse than useless; — it is injurious to science." 



THE UNITED STATES. S35 

This, though severe, is a solid criticism on the 
common thermometrical tables, and supported by a 
very competent observer in the United States. 

"Thermometrical observations, by different per- 
sons, vary so much, that many treat them with very 
little respect. In fact, an approximation to correct- 
ness can only result from the use of good instru- 
ments, and carefulness about their exposure. This, 
and the other reports I have published, are founded 
on a careful comparison of different instruments. I 
have two placed in a northern aspect, at an eleva- 
tion of near 20 feet from the ground, where they are 
not exposed to the direct rays of the sun, nor can be 
much acted upon by reflection, or radiation, of heat, 
from the neighbouring buildings or paving ; though 
I am well aware, that it is difficult, if not impossi- 
ble, altogether to prevent this source of exaggera- 
tion in a city or considerable town. This is one of 
the great causes why in country places the heat is 
less oppressive than in towns built of brick, and 
with paved streets. On the other hand, a situation 
permanently defended from the sun's rays, and in 
a damp yard surrounded with high walls, will never 
exhibit the true temperature of the atmosphere, but 
like the descent into a well, will always be colder in 
summer than other places. Our object has been to 
get the true temperature of the open air, only re- 
moving the direct glare of the sun's rays. Our 
fellow-citizens in distant places will perceive, I be- 
lieve, by this month's report, that the city of Wash- 
ington has really been one of the coolest, as well as 
the healthiest, -.'^^sidences in. the A^slitic States. 
"ROBERT LITTLE," 
Washington City, Jugust 1, 1825. 



36 CLIMATE OF 



Conimujiication to the Columbian Iiiatitute, on June 
Ath, 182r. 

Having, in compliance with the request of the 
Columbian Institute, taken a regular series of Ther- 
iTiometrical Observations for the last four years, 
g,nd published a monthly report of the same in the 
papers of this city, my attention has been much en- 
gaged to discover the simplest and most certain 
iTiethod of ascertaining the mean heat of the atmos- 
phere, with the least trouble to the observer. Every- 
one must be aware, that, to take three observations 
each day, for a series of years, at given hours, re- 
quires a punctuality, that few persons (however 
much at leisure) will perseveringly bestow on the 
subject. I have done this hitherto, but I have ascer- 
tained, by a very accurate and unintermitted course 
of four observations each day, for the last twelve 
jflonths, that this is no longer necessary. 

In a subsequent paper Mr. Little observes : 
"The object sought for is the true mean heat of 
every twenty-four hours. The usual mode is to 
take three observations, one at 7 A. M., the second 
at 2 P. M., and the third at 9 P. M., and the sum of 
these is divided by three. The quotient, however, 
is not the true mean. Other modes have, there- 
fore, been proposed, but they are attended with still 
more trouble, and, therefore, more objectionable. 
The Institute having procured an excellent day and 
night selfr-registering Thermometer, I tried with it 
the experiment of combining the absolute mi- 
nimums c.iCi maximums of every twenty-four 
Ihours, with a third observation, taken at 9 in the 
levening, every day for a complete year; as well 
as the other observations at the usual hours. 
[Fhe result is, a conviction that every mode of com- 
ining three or more observations in eacli day, will 
ivc an average usually higher tlian (he true mean 



THE UNITED STATES. 



337 



heat, but frequently also below it. I found that the 
minimum and maximum of every day, (which, with 
a proper thermometer, may be taken at one obser- 
vation,) if added together and divided by two, will 
give the nearest approximation to the mean heat, 
that, probably, can be attained. It is of no conse- 
quence whether the time of observation, by a self- 
registering thermometer, be morning or evening. 
The observer has only to put down the minimum, 
and maximum as the gauges indicate, and then ad- 
just the thermometer by bringing the gauges to the 
extremity of the fluids in each tube, and then leave 
them for the next twerity-four hours. The sums of 
each of the two columns of figures for a whole 
month, divided by the number of days, and again by 
two, will give the mean heat of the whole month, 
with the trouble of only taking one observation a 
day. To verify these remarks, and to show how 
small the difference is between this easy, and the 
other more troublesome way of taking the observa- 
tions, I have subjoined a table of the results of the 
two modes just described, accurately taken in the 
twelve months preceding the 1st of May last. 





MEAN HEAT, 




As taken from the average of 


As taken by three obsermtians 


the Maximum and Mini- 


each day, at 7 A 


Jf., 2 


mum of each day. 




P. M, 9 P.M. 




1826, May, 


73.66 


1826, May, 


74.22 


June, 


77.33 


June, 


77.38 


July, 


78.50 


July, 


78.33 


August, 


77.25 


August, 


77.33 


September, 


72.50 


September, 


72.81 


October, 


59.12 


October, 


59.33 


November, 


48.75 


November, 


47.70 


December ■ 


37.50 


December, 


36.75 


1827, January, 


30.41 


1827, January, 


30.50 


* February, 


42.50 


February, 


42.47 


^. March, 


48.00 


March, 


47.76 


April, 


60.99 


April, 


60.87 



338 CLIMATE OF 



Total 
Divide by 12) 706.51 



Mean for the year, 58.87 



Total 
Divide by 12) 705.45 



Mean for the year, 58.78 



As I am satisfied of the accuracy of these obser- 
vations, and in the result it appears that in a Avhole 
year there is only 9-lOOths parts of a degree d^^er- 
ence between the modes of ascertaining the mean 
by the daily maximum and minimum, which re- 
quires only one observation, and that of taking three 
observations at specific hours, I shall, of course, in 
future, take the shortest and easiest course, and re- 
commend to other reporters of similar tables to 
adopt the same plan. 

ROBERT LITTLE. 

"P. S. For those who wish to know t^e mean tem- 
perature at 7 A. M., by some deductk'^' ''om my ta- 
bles, I suggest the following rule, >? litow will gene- 
rally be found very near the truth t -"i he tempera- 
ture at 7 A. M, is about 3.50 degrees higher in the 
whole month than the mean of the minimum. The 
temperature at 9 P. M. I have found too variable 
and uncertain to be reduced to any fixed rule." 

I have inserted the preceding observations of Mr. 
Little, as they contain much of tae true philosophy 
of the thermometer, and \ -ry good rules for con- 
ducting experiments with that instrument, but it will 
be shown in the sequel of this chapter, that the mean 
temperature of Washington city, deduced with all 
the precautions pointed out and taken by Mr. Little, ; 
is too high. In recommending a method more easy ij 
in practice than those in common use, Mr. Little j 
has been successful. A self-registering thermome- I 
ter will no doubt answer as well, as will observations j 
made at 7 A. M. and 2 and 9 P. M.; but both modes 
produce results above or below, in most cases the 



THE UNITED STATES. 339 

former, from the real mean temperature. In fact, 
a great majority of therm ometrical tables give the 
iiiean of the day, from 7 in the morning to 9 in the 
evening, or 14 hours, leaving the other 9 hours un- 
accounted for, and consequently the mean of the 
year, deduced from such data, must be evidently far 
above the true medium temperature. 

Mr. Reuben Haines, of Germantown, near Phila- 
delphia, has, with the true liberality of a philoso- 
pher, confided to my care and use his manuscript 
thermometrical notes, which were made from obser- 
vations early in the morning, at noon, and late in 
the evening. Mr. Lewis Brantz, of Baltimore, re- 
corded the state of his thermometer at sun-rise, and 
2 and 10 P. M. In the tables of this chapter, com- 
piled from the notes of these two latter observers, it 
will be seen that the respective mean temperatures 
are compai :,tively far below the other tables taken 
from the ' mon methods of observation. With 
these precc.^..jnary remarks, I proceed to the sub- 
ject matter of our inquiry, prefacing the more par- 
ticular view of the United States by a general geo- 
graphical sketch of the earth. 

The surface of the earth is very unequally divided 
into land protuberances and oceanic basins. A cur- 
sory glance on a map of the world presents the land 
rising in two very irregular masses; but a more care- 
ful investigation ;eads to a discovery of a regularity 
of arrangement which^ds at once pleasing and unex- 
pected. 

The earth, moving in its orbit, with its axis in- 
clined 23^ degrees to the plane of its motion ; and 
that axis carried round the sun nearly parallel to 
itself, causes the sun's rays to fall perpendicular to 
the earth's surface on each side of the equator over 
a space equal to the deflection of its axis. This 
band or zone of 47 degrees in breadth, having the 
equator as its middle line, is called the torrid zone. 
The same cause which carries the sun's rays direct 



340 CLIMATE OF 

over 23^ degrees on each side of the equator, plunges 
the two polar extremities into light and darkness 
six months alternately, and to a distance of 23^ de- 
grees from each pole. These circles round the poles 
have received the erroneous appellation of Frigid 
Zones; they are real polar circles. 

Between the torrid zone, on each of its sides, and 
the respective polar circles, spread real zones of 
43° in breadth, which are called the temperate 
zones. 

The land and water are distributed in the respec- 
tive zones, as exhibited in the following tables. It 
may be, however, noticed before examining the ta- 
bles, that the two polar extremities, as far as known, 
present a remarkable contrast ; the northern is en- 
veloped by land, the southern, with little exception, 
by water. 

No. XXI. — Table of the Area of the Southern, Indian, and 
Pacific Oceans, taken together. 

Sq. Miles. 

Southern and Pacific oceans included 100,000,000 

Indian ocean between 40° and 60° S. lat. 7,880,000 

Do. from 30° to 40° 4,300,000 

Do. do. 20° 30° 3,200,000 

Do. do. 10° 20° 3,700,000 

Do, do. 10° S. lat to 10° N. lat. 5,200,000 

Northern extension of the Indian Ocean with 

the Red Sea, and Persian gulf, 1,152,000 

Bay of Bengal, 613,000 



126,045,000 



No. XXII. — Table of the Atla^itic Ocean and cowiected 
Seas. 

Atlantic ocean from S. lat. 55° to 40° 1,604,000 

Do. do. 40° 50° 2,700,000 

Do, do. 30° 20° 2,600,000 

6,904,000 



THE UNITED STATES. 341 

Brought forward, 6,904,000 

Atlantic ocean from S. lat. 20° to 10° 2,304,000 

Atlantic ocean between Cape Palmas In Africa 
and Cape St. Roque in South America, S. 
lat. 10° - - . 2,500,000 

Atlantic ocean from a line drawn from Cape 

Palmas to Cape St. Roque, and N. lat. 10° 2,500,000 

Atlantic ocean between N. lat. 10° and 20° 3,225,000 

Do. do. 20° and 30° 3,441,000 

Do. do. 30''and40« 2,735,000 

Do. do. 40° and 50° 2,030,000 

Do. do. 50° and 60° 1,505,000 

Do. do. N. lat. 60° 1,616,000 

Mediterranean and Black Seas, - 735,000 

Baltic and its gulfs, - - - 92,000 ' 

Hudson's Bay, - - - 250,000 

Arctic Ocean, - - - - 4,000,000 



33,837,000 



No. XXIII. — Summary ef Oceanic Area. 
Contained in No. 21, - - 126,045,000 

Containe'd in No. 22, - - - 33,857,000 

To these aggregates, add for the Caspian, 
great lakes of America,and other smaller 
collections of water, - - 250,000 



Amount of water surface, - - 160,152,000 



No. XXIV.— ian J Area. 

Polynesia, or Oceanica, - - 100,000 

Austral Asia, .... 3,000,000 

Asia, . = . - - 11,500,000 

Europe, - - - - 3,020,000 

Africa, .... 8,000,000 

America, Greenland, &c. - - 13,220,000 

Amount of land area, - - = 38,840,000 

Ff2 ^m 



342 CLIMATE OF 

No. XXV.' — Summary of Land and Water. 

Water contained in No. 23. - - 160,152,000 

Land contained in No. 24. - - - 38,840,000 



Amount of the area of the earth - 198,992,000 

From the preceding elements it is seen that the land 
surface does not amount to the one-fourth part of the 
entire superficies of the earth. The subjoined tables 
exhibit the relative distribution of the land and water, 
as respects the astronomical subdivision of the earth 
into zones. 

No. XXVI. — Torrid Zone, contains land in 

Asia - - 3,000,000 

Austral Asia 1,000,000 

Polynesia, or Oceanica .... 100,000 

Africa -..--.. 5,000,000 

South and North America - - - 4,500,000 



Amount of land within the Torrid Zone . 13,600,000 

No. XXVII.— TAe Land area of the Southern Tempeo'aie 
Zone. 

Austral Asia - - - - - . 1,400,000 

Africa -..-... 640,000 

South America . . . _ . 1,520,000 

Amount in the Southern Temperate Zone 3,560,000 

No. XXVIII. — Land area in the Northern Temperate 
Zone. 

In Asia 7,600,000 

Europe 3,020,000 

Nortli America, Greenland, &c. - - 5,000,000 

Africa ....... . 2,360,000 

.^^^ 17,960,000 



THE UNITED STATES. o43 

• No. XXTK.— Land area in the Northern Polar Circle. 

Asia - 900,000 

Europe • 20,000 

North America, Greenland, &.c. - - - 2,600,000 



Amount of land in the Northern Polar Circle 3,520,000 

No. XXX. — Land area ivt the Southern Polar Circle. 

200,000, 

The tables 29 and 30 show, in a striking manner, 
the very unequal distribution of land at the two po- 
lar extremities of the earth. It is even doubtful, 
from the present condition of geographical science, 
whether there is, in reality, as great an extent as 
200,000 square miles of land within the Antartic 
circle. 

The different portions of the land area of the earth, 
though deeply indented in their outlines, and broken 
into continents and islands of very unequal relative 
superficies, and also apparently irregular in their 
general arrangement, nevertheless rise from the 
adjacent oceans in two groups, which relatively 
with the Atlantic ocean may be correctly called 
eastern and western continents. The Atlantic de- 
serves the distinction here given from another most 
important circumstance; it is the only large mass 
of water which reaches from one to the other polar 
circle, and, as will be clearly shewn, exerts an in- 
fluence upon the habitable earth to an extent which 
has, and, as long as the present order of things con- 
tinue, must control the course of human history. 

The superficial area of each great land section 
is shewn in table 24. If we regard these sections on 
a map we see the largest group composed of Asia, 
Austral Asia, Polynesia, Africa, and Europe, 
spreading eastward from the Atlantic ocean, and 
comprising an area of 25,620,000 square miles: the 
lesser group composed of So^^k America, North 



344 CLIMATE OF 

America, and Greenland, extending westward from 
the Atlantic ocean over an area of 13,220,000 square 
miles. 

The relative position and distribution of these two 
groups and their minor parts, offer to a philosophi- 
cal view of the earth the most interesting phenome- 
na in physical geography. More than half of the 
land surface lies north from the tropic of Cancer; 
and including the land surface in the torrid zone, 
more than nine-tenths north from the tropic of 
Capricorn. I have already observed that the north- 
ern polar circle is chiefly land, whilst that of the 
south is still more exclusively an expanse of water. 

Indented as the general outline may appear, the 
great continents preserve a regularity of structure 
seldom found to prevail in nature, except in the 
case of planetary revolution. The following calcu- 
lations will serve to demonstrate the actual preva- 
lence of this admirable geographical system. 

The Cape of Good Hope is at S. lat. 33° 56' and 
long. 18° 23' E. from London. Bhering's Strait is 
at N. lat. 66° 30' long. 19° 1' E. of London. A line 
drawn along the surface of the-eaxth from one of 
these points to the other, deflects froih the meridians 
by an angle of 54° 20', and is 13,857 statute miles in 
length. 

Cape Horn, or the extreme southern point of 
America, is at S. lat. 56° and long. 67° 46' W. from 
London. A line drawn between these points de- 
flects from the meridians by an angle of 31° 38', and 
within a very small fraction of 10,000 miles. These 
two lines if extended into the southern hemisphere 
will intersect in the great southern ocean, and will 
enclose all America, Europe, Africa, and the far 
greater part of Asia. 

A direct line from Bhering's Strait to Cape Horn 
bears S. 59° W. 16,560 miles, and with the Ameri- 
can line between the same points forms an angle at 
Cape Horn withinSS minutes of a right angle. The 



THE UNITED STATES. 345 

two continents, therefore, from Bhering's strait re- 
tire from each other very nearly at right angles. 
The Asiatic line from Bhering's strait in its pro- 
gress south-westward traverses the peninsulas of 
south-eastern Asia, and crosses the equator almost 
exactly on the eastern coast of Africa; and thence 
crossing the latter continent obliquely, leaves full 
four-fifths of the surface and all the great mountain 
chains of the eastern continent to the north-west. 

The two great triangles I have sketched serve to 
demonstrate how very nearly the two continents 
range at right angles to each other. The larger 
triangle embraces about the twelve-thirteenths of 
all the land of the earth. 

In the formation of a sound theory of climate, the 
form and relative position of the parts are, however, 
as necessary to be understood as the position and 
bearing of the whole. It is worthy of serious atten- 
tion that a tendency to the triangular form, with a 
salient point southward, and one side extending 
from north-east to south-west, prevails over the 
whole land surface of the earth, but in a particular 
manner in America. A glance on a general map 
will render this feature evident on the large scale 
in the case of Asia, Africa, and the two Americas; 
but it is equally obvious in the instances of Spain, 
Scandinavia, Greece, Arabia, Indostan, Malacca, 
Cambodia, Corea, and Kamschatka. These penin- 
sular projections afford highly satisfactory proofs of 
a systematic arrangement of parts. To render this 
important fact in physical geography still more ap- 
parent, I have calculated the following lines of coast, 
and placed the results before the reader in a tabular 
form. 



346 CLIMATE OF 

No. XXXl.—Table of the deflection from the meridians, 
and lengths, of the principal Coasts of the earth, and also 
of the range of the great continents. 

Coasts. Bearing. Length. 

1. General course from Behring's 
Strait to Cape Horn, over the Pa- 
cific ocean, parallel to America 31°38' 10,000 

2. Range of the continent of America 
from the mouth of the Unjiga to 

that of the Rio de la Platte 30 32 8,410 

3. General course from the mouth of 
Sir James Lancaster's Sound, in 
Baffin's Bay, through Davis' Strait, 
and nearly touching Cape Palmas, 

to the Cape of Good Hope in Africa S3 42 8,944 

Li7jes in the contrary direction. 

4. Line from Cape Tehuantepec to 
the southern point of the islands of 
Spitzbergen ... 47 44 6,390 

5. Line drawn along the south-east 
coast of North America, from Cape 

Floridato the straits of Belle Isle 35 51 2,654 

6. South-east coast of South-America, 
from Cape St. Vincent to Cape St. 

Roque 26 30 3,867' 

7. Course from Cape Horn to the 

North Cape of Europe - - 29 00 10,150 

8. Course from Cape Horn to the 

Northern Cape of Asia - 40 27 12,240 

9. Coast of Africa and Europe, from 

Cape Verd to North Cape - 24 42 4,232 

10. South-eastern coast of Europe, 
from Cape Metapan to the mouth 

of the Dnieper - - - 36 36 920 

11. General range of the coasts of 
Africa and Arabia, from the Cape 

of Good Hope to Cape Ras ^ 30 00 5,200 ^ 



THE UNITED STATES. 347 

Coasts. Bearing. Lcng-th« 

12. South-eastern coast of Indostan, 
from Cape Comorin to the mouth 

of the Ganges - - - 36 39 1,172 

13. Coast of Asia, from the south- 
eastern point of CamKodia to the 

mouth of the Amur - - 36 21 4,066 

14. Entire south-eastern coast of Asia, 
from the south point of Malacca to 

Bhering's Strait - . - 45 00 6,266 

In these examples the three first exhibit the 
range of America and south-west Africa, and differ 
from each other in their inflections to the meridians 
only 3° 10'. The eleven next examples deflect 
from the meridians in the opposite direction, or from 
north-east to south-west. Here it may be noticed 
that the individual south-east coasts, from that of 
North America to that of Asia inclusive, preserve 
a parallelism to within 23| degrees, and what is 
more remarkable, that the two main and extreme 
coasts, at a distance of 6880 miles asunder, decline 
from each other only 2^ degrees. 

If examined in relation to their intersection with 
the diff'erent points on the earth's surface, the first 
of these lines, with the exception of the peninsula 
of Oonalaska, traverses the Pacific ocean, but paral- 
lel to the general range of America. 

No. 2 leaves the mouth of the Unjiga, follows the 
basin of that river, and the south-western part of 
that of the Mississippi, crosses the western part of 
the Gulf of Mexico, passes obliquely over the isth- 
mus which extends between the two Americas, in- 
tersects the equator and the western coast of South 
America almost at the same point, and ranges 
thence over the sources of the Amazon, and down 
the valley of the Platte to its mouth. 

No. 3 demonstrates the curious fact, that the 
range of America and that of south-western Africa 



348 CLIMATE OF 

are within a small fraction of two degrees of being 
parallel. 

No. 4, extending from Cape Tehuantepec, of the 
south-western coast of North America, to Spitz- 
bergen, traverses the peninsulas of Yucatan, Flo- 
rida, and Nova Scotia, passftig along the south-east 
coast of the United States and that of Greenland, 

Nos. 5 and 6 point out the particular bearing of 
the south-east coast of North and South America, 
which it may be observed deflect from each other 
only 9° 21'. 

No. 7 is a very important geographical line, and 
shews the near approach to parallelism in the op- 
posing coasts of Europe and north-west Africa, to 
the opposing coasts of North America. 

No. 8 serves a similar purpose with No. 7, but in 
the latter case extending the comparison to the ut- 
most northern limit of Asia. These two lines, with 
those along the south-east coast of North America, 
are of the utmost value as elements in the philoso- 
phy of the climates of both continents. 

Nos. 9, 10, llj and 12 were calculated to illus- 
trate the systematic arrangement of the different 
and distant sections of the earth. 

Nos. 13 and 14, like 7 and 8, serve as means at 
once to demonstrate regularity of arrangement, and 
to aid in the formation of a rational meteorological 
theory. 

Though the actual lines of contact between land 
and water are of most importance, there are other 
features of nature the knowledge of which is indis- 
pensable to a due comprehension of the analogies of 
aerial revolution. It has been found from experi- 
ment that the atmosphere decreases in temperature 
according to its elevation above the general oceanic 
level; it seems also that the atmosphere regards 
the laws of gravitation as well as water; therefore, 
whether land rises rapidly into mountain peaks, or 
slowly and extensively by continental table lands. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



!49 



the effect is the same specificallJ^ In the case of 
elevated and extended plateaus, the sun's rays being 
radiated, lessens in some degree the refrigeration 
occasioned by height; but on all places, at a suffi- 
cient elevation, vegetation is succeeded by perpetual 
frost. On the other hand, within the tropics, frost 
cannot take place where the high temperature of 
the oceanic level is not lessened by elevation. The 
following table, liable (as the author acknowledges) 
to local exceptions, gives a general view of aerial 
temperature depending on relative height, as high 
asN. lat. 40°.* 

No. XXXn. — Table of the height above the ocean, and 
mean temperature, which admits perpetual Snow. 





Lowest 


Inferior 


Difference 


Mean 


Northern 


height at 


limit of 


of the two 


temperature 


Latitude. 


which 


perpetu- 


preceding 


Fahrenheit's 




snow falls. 


al snow. 


columns. 


Thermom. 




Feet. 


Feet. 


Feet. 




0° 


13041 


15714 


2673 


80.6 


20 


9905 


15088 


5183 


70.7 


40 




9840 


9840 


62.6 



Though this table as it imports was calculated 
forN.lat., it will serve also to give ideas sufficiently 
correct for common purposes, of similar phenomena 
and latitudes on the contrary hemisphere. Snow, 
however, falls annually at the level of the ocean in 
the United States as low as N. lat. 35°, and occa- 
sionally as low as 30°; such again is the case on 
south-eastern Asia; the causes of this seeming ano- 
maly will be explained in the sequel. 



* Humboldt's Personal Narrative, p. 119. M. Carey, 
1815. 

G g 



350 CLIMATE OF 

The laws upon which climate depends are few 
and simple* 
1» All places on the same parallel of latitude, and 

at a like height and exposure, must have similar 

temperature. 

2. Places on the same parallel of latitude, have 
difference of aerial temperature, if the places 
themselves differ in relative height, or exposure. 

3. Difference of exposure arises from different ter- 
restrial inclination, proximity to, and bearing 
from, extensive bodies of land, from mountains, 
or from collections of water. 

4. Mountains and oceanic collections of water, exert 
a directly contrary influence on aerial tempera- 
ture; the former tending to produce extremes of 
cold, the latter to reduce the atmosphere to a 
uniform annual temperature. 

5. The atmosphere forming a part of th^ planet, is 
carried daily round the axis with the other bodies 
on the earth's surface ; consequently, what isi 
called wind, is a mere deviation from the natural 
motion of the air, caused by changes of tempera- 
ture. 

6. Land and water being always unequally acted 
on by an equal degree of heat, changes of tempe- 
rature are constantly recurring near sea-coasts; 
and these changes are mostly in a near ratio with 
the relative extent of contiguous land and water. 

7. The natural motion of the air being from W. to 
E., if the earth's surface was composed of uniform 
matter, or matter reflecting the rays of heat 
equally, wind at any given place would be uniform 
in its direction, as is the case on wide oceans, and 
continents at considerable distances from the lines 
of contact between land and water. 

From the preceding laws, if the mean tempera- 
ture of any place can be accurately determined, that 
of others not only contiguous, but at considerable 
distances can be determined, by having the latitudes 



THE UNITED STATES. 351 

and difference of elevation given. In Europe it has 
been shown, that a change of elevation of 338 feet 
or 100 metres is equal to a degree of Fahrenheit, 
and that a similar difference of temperature arises 
from a degree of latitude. Such allowances seem 
too artificial to be any where very correct, and are, 
in the United States, too small in the former and too 
great in the latter case ; but as it is impracticable 
to arrive at great precision on the subject, I have 
used 400 feet, and one degree of latitude, as coming 
nearer the result of observation, than any other ele- 
ments I have compared with the tables. The ex- 
planation of this principle in meteorology will be 
again resumed. 

Having thus premised the laws on which general 
temperature depends, we now return to a review of 
the great land protuberances, and the range and 
mass of mountain systems. Under this head will be 
included, not merely those prominent ridges called 
mountains, but also, those extensive and elevated 
plateaus, or table lands, which, particularly in North 
America and Asia, so greatly influence the tempera- 
ture of the seasons of countries lying to the south- 
east of them. 

Each continent has a predominant system of 
mountains, of immense mass and length, with many 
minor systems and chains. If a point is chosen in 
Central Asia, at about 83^ E. from London, N. lat. 
47°, and on the sources of the Oby, a distance of 
about 1875 miles will reach north in the Arctic 
ocean, at the mouth of the Oby ; west into the Cas- 
pian ; south into the Bay of Bengal ; and east into 
the Yellow Sea. This is the most remote point of 
land on the earth from the contiguous oceans, and 
spreading from it, is the most elevated and extended 
table land. This great plateau is surrounded by a 
mountainous rim, from which are protruded moun- 
tain chains ; the Stavonoy to the north-east, termi- 
nating at Bhering's strait; the Ural stretching 



352 CLIMATE OF 

north, between Europe and Asia; the Himmelaya 
towards Indostan; and the chain of Caucasus to- 
wards southern Europe. 

From this enormous plain, the continent of Asia 
slopes on every side. Its great rivers are found 
winding their way in immense volumes from one to 
two thousand miles in length, to the Arctic, Indian, 
and Pacific oceans. The central plateau is in great 
part destitute of timber, and being elevated from 
5000 to 12000 feet, spreading over more than 
3,000,000 square miles, is the most bleak, and, for 
its latitude, the most uninhabitable tract in the 
northern temperate zone of the earth. 

A zone, bounded to the N, by the wooded moun- 
tains of Altai, and to which lat. 50° is about the 
central or middle line, is a timbered band, extending 
from Europe to the sea of Ochotsk, about from 8^ 
to 10° of latitude wide, and followed on the north 
by an inclined plain, naked, level and marshy, ter- 
minating in the Arctic Ocean. 

On the south east towards the Indian and Pacific 
Oceans, stretches from the Arabian Gulf to the sea 
of Ochotsk, a fine arable slope, comprising the 
Makran, the two Indias, China, and Mandshuria, 
with the Japan Isles. It is this great slope which of 
all others on the earth, bears in every respect the 
strongest resemblance to the United States. 

As far to the westward as the valley of the Don 
in Europe, commences those steppes or arid plains, 
which with an almost perfect resemblance to the 
prairies of North America, extend to, and are lost 
in the desolate expanse of central Asia. 

On the south-west, the desert regions of Mongolia 
are terminated by the fertile valleys of the Oxus 
and Sihon, which in turn are succeeded by the min- 
gled deserts and gardens of Persia, and still further 
by the burning sands of Arabia. 

Such is the vast continent of vVsia, from which is 
protruded westward, a much broken peninsula, to 



THE UNITED STATES. o53 

which the course of civilization has given a moral 
and political identity, separate from the continent of 
which it naturally forms a minor part. Europe is 
bounded south by the deepest gulf on the eastern 
continent, on the west by the Atlantic, and north by 
the Arctic Ocean. 

South-west from Asia, and south from Europe, 
spreads the continent of Africa. Asia is cut longi- 
tudinally into two not very unequal parts, by a me- 
ridian, about 100° E. from London. Along this 
meridian, the continent extends Qii both extremes, 
into points, the northern reaching, N. lat. 76° and 
the southern almost touching the equator. 

If Africa and Europe are taken together, a second 
meridian, about 90° W. from that of Asia, will be 
again rendered remarkable, by salient points to- 
wards each pole. On the African and European 
meridian, the land stretches in continuity to the 
35th S. lat. 

Similar to Asia and Europe, the mountain sys- 
tems of Africa are ranged, as far as known, from 
east to west ; but as the particular geographical 
features of the latter are irrelevant to an explica- 
tion of the climate of the United States, any further 
examination of its interior structure will be omitted 
in this view. 

Westward of the Eastern continent, curves the 
Atlantic Ocean, the only considerable aquatic com- 
munication between the polar extremities of the 
earth. The Atlantic in its narrowest part between 
Europe and Greenland, is upwards of one thousand 
miles wide, and opening thence S. W. with the gen- 
eral range of the bounding continents, spreads under 
the northern tropic, to a breadth of 60 degrees of 
longitude or 4170 miles, without estimating the in- 
denting of the Gulf of Mexico. Over the torrid 
zone, the Atlantic inflects to N. W. andS. E., again 
complying with the bearing of the adjacent conti- 
G8:2 



354 CLIMATE OF 

nents, which, as we have seen, ccrrespcnd with 
great exactness to each other. 

The Atlantic Ocean and its gulfs, occupy about 
the 1-rth part of the superficies of the earth, curv- 
ing round the western, southern and northern part 
of the eastern continent, from 72*^ of N. lat., to 
35^^ of S. lat, or through 107 degrees of latitude. 
This immense strait is limited on the west by the 
most lengthened land line, extending north and 
south, that can be drawn on the planet. Without 
including Greenland, or the unknown regions around 
the northern pole, America stretches from the 72nd 
degree of N., to the 56th of S. lat., or through 128 
degrees of latitude. 

From the recent discoveries made by authority of 
the British government, Greenland may be consid- 
ered as detached from America, and might from its 
extent, deserve the rank of a separate section, in 
regard to physical geography ; but in disquisitions 
on climate, and particularly the inliuence it may 
have in modifying the prevalence of cold in winter 
over the United States, Greenland ought to be inclu- 
ded with the mass of North America. In reality, 
whatever narrow inlets and islands may exist north 
from North America, the whole surface of the polar 
circle, and far into the northern temperate zone, is 
in winter converted into one immense sweep of ice 
and snow. Thus extended, the continent of Amer- 
ica reaches into a Terra Incognita^ and is actually 
lost to human research. 

The range and relative extent of America, have 
been already stated. Beside the imperfectly ex- 
plored peninsula of Greenland, America rises from 
the circumjacent oceans, by two great land protu- 
berances, called relatively North America and 
South America. 

South America though peculiar in some of its fea- 
tures, bears a general resemblance in structure to 
its counterpart. On the western border the Andes 



THE UJsITED STATES, 35 5 

Vise into greatly elevated mountain chains, peaks, 
and narrow plateaus. From this protracted but- 
tress, through 66 degrees of latitude, the rivers are 
poured to the east and south-east in three principal 
and many minor streams. Following nearly the 
course of the opposing Atlantic coast, a compara- 
tively humble system of mountains stretches between 
the estuaries of the Amazon and Platte rivers. 
Taken as a whole. South America is composed of 
two exterior but unequal mountain walls, with an 
immense central valley drained by the Orinoco, 
Amazon and Platte rivers, the whole outline pre- 
senting a strong resemblance to that of Africa. 

United to South America by a very attenuated 
strip. North America, similar to other large sections 
of the earth, projects a salient point southward, and 
dilates into a triangle northward. With much di- 
versity of interior structure, the great south-eastern 
outline of North America conforms in its bearing to 
almost minute exactness with the corresponding 
part of Asia, whilst in regard to their respective 
mountain systems, the two Americas have strong 
traits in common. In North America, we find as in 
South America, two unequal systems of mountains. 
It remains an undecided problem, whether the 
great western system of mountains on the former is, 
or is not a continuation of the Andes of the latter 
continent. Leaving the question of their union or 
reparation undetermined, a system of mountains 
originating on the peninsula, between the two Amer- 
icas, extends in almost exact conformity to the gen- 
eral bearing of North America, from Tehuantepec 
to the Arctic Ocean. Rising in Mexico, into vast 
volcanic peaks, and stretching across the territory 
of the United States in elevated lateral ridges, this 
system is known by various names. In Mexico it is 
designated. Anahuac ; in the United States, the 
Rocky mountains ; and in the still more north-wes- 
tern extension, the Chippewayan range. The 



356 CLIMATE OF 

height of this vast system, except in the vicinity of 
Mexico, has never yet been ascertained, but from 
the length of the rivers flowing from its base, that 
base cannot fall short of 5000 or 6000 feet. What- 
ever may, however, be its relative height, this sys- 
tem traverses the whole continent of North Amer- 
ica, from the Gulf of Mexico into the Frozen Ocean, 
dividing it into two unequal inclined plains. The 
plain towards the Pacific, from one hundred to a 
thousand miles wide, is drained by two main rivers 
the Columbia and Colorado, with numerous smaller 
streams. 

North-east from the principal system of its moun- 
tains. North America is again very unequally sub- 
divided by another system, the Appalachian. The 
latter, although in every respect comparatively 
humble when compared with the stupendous sys- 
tems of Asia, Africa, the Andes or Chippewayan, 
gains an intense interest in the United States from 
local position. Conforming like the secondary sys- 
tem of South America, to the opposing Atlantic 
coast, the Appalachian, composed of lateral chains, 
extends in broken fragments from near the Gulf of 
Mexico, towards, and approaching that of St. Law- 
rence, with a height from 600 to 6 or 7000 feet. 

The two North American mountain systems, 
range at very nearly right angles to each other, 
leaving between them the vast central basin of the 
Mississippi. The basin of that river expanded as 
it is, however, forms only the principal section of 
an interior valley, terminating south-eastward in 
the Gulf of Mexico, north-westward in the Arctic 
Ocean, north-eastward in Hudson's bay, and east- 
ward by the Appalachian system of mountains. 

Thus, if taken into one point of view. North 
America is composed of two unequal slopes, falling 
from its mountain systems towards the Pacific and 
Atlantic oceans, each of the slopes having an extent 
in a near ratio with the mountain mass from which 



THE UNITKD STATES. 3 5 7" 

it depends. The wide intervening valley occupies, 
next after the western slope, the far larger part of 
the continent, stretching from the Gulf of Mexico, 
to the Arctic Ocean, and itself again composed of 
two inclined plains, sloping from the two mountain 
systems. As is the case in respect to the two exte- 
rior ocean slopes, the extent relatively of the two 
interior plains corresponds to the size of the moun- 
tain masses. That falling from the Chippewayan 
drained by the western confluents of the Mississippi 
and Saskatchewaine and the entire streams of the 
Unjiga, is upwards of three thousand miles in length, 
and averages from 500 to more than one thousand 
miles wide, covering at least 2,500,000 square miles, 
and varying in elevation from the oceanic level to 
8 or 10 thousand feet. 

The eastern or Appalachian slope, descending 
from the latter system, is from south-west to north- 
east, about 1000 miles, with a mean width of 300, 
extending over at most 300,000 square miles. If 
these comparative estimates are correct, the two 
sections of the great central valley of North Amer- 
ica, differ in area rather more than 8 to 1. The 
wide disparity of superficies is not, nevertheless, the 
most important contrast presented by the two inte- 
rior inclined pla'ns. When the cultivation of North 
America by Europeans was commenced, a dense 
and continuous forest of excessively heavy timber 
spread over and around the Appalachian system of 
mountains. This great forest extended from the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence to that of Mexico, and from 
the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, beyond the main 
volume of the Mississippi. This ocean of woods, 
still in the far greater part existing, may be consid- 
ered as about 2000 miles in length, with a mean 
breadth of 1000, and comprising 2,000,000 of square 
miles, and limited either by the Atlantic ocean, the 
Gulf of Mexico, or by naked interior plains. 



358 CLIMATE OF 

The western slope of the interior valley of North 
America with a considerably greater extent than 
the Appalachian forest, is with partial exceptions 
composed of naked plains, bearing all the charac- 
teristic marks of the steppes of Asia, =* and having 
a still more close resemblance in relative geographi- 
cal position. 

It is commonly, but very erroneously supposed, 
that the prairies of America are level or nearly so. 
This is far, however, from being their general physi- 
ognomy. In Louisiana the prairies are indeed level 
plains, but in the great western territory exhibit 
much diversity of surface and of soil, from alluvial 
flats to rugged mountain chains; and such are also 
the steppes of Asia. 

We have now briefly sketched the outlines of 
those parts of the earth, and those laws of meteor- 
ology which are necessary to a development of the 
particular climate of the United States, and proceed 
to their application. 

It has been already premised, that the natural 
motion of the atmosphere was that of the earth 
round its axis. The earth revolves round its axis 
once in 24 hours, very nearly; consequently, 15 de- 
grees of its meridians are moved in an hour of time. 
The maximum of motion being at the equator, les- 
sening along the meridians, and becoming nothing 
at either pole. The following table shews the hour- 
ly motion of the curves of latitude, at each 10 de- 
grees from the equator. 



* Tooke's Russia, London 1800. A^oL T. page 74. 



THE U.MTED STATES. 



359 



No. XXXIU. — Table of a Degree of Longitude, and the- 
hourly motion round the axis of a particle of matter on 
each 10th degree of Latitude, from the Equator to either 
Pole. 



Degrees of 
Latitude. 


Breadth of a 
degree of 
Longitude. 


Hourly motion 
in miles. 





69.7 


1036 


10 


67.95 


1019.2 


20 


64.84 


972.6 


SO 


59.75 


896.25 


40 


52.85 


792.75 


50 


44.35 


665.25 


60 


34.50 


517.50 


70 


23.60 


354 


80 


11.98 


180 


90 


00.00 


000 



From this table it is seen, that on latitude 40°, 
nearly the middle latitude of the United States, 
particles of matter are carried round the earth's 
axis, 792f miles hourly. Besides the aquatic, the 
earth is enveloped by an aerial ocean of great depth, 
and composed of matter liable to indefinite expan- 
sion and contraction, from heat and cold. It is usual 
to regard the atmosphere, as a mere adjunct, when 
estimating the size of this globe, though, in either a 
geographical or philosophical view, the aerial, as 
completely as the aquatic ocean, is a part of the pla- 
net, and if so, both are carried round the axis with 
the decumbent nucleus. This motion on the equa- 
tor, is more than twice the velocity of a cannon ball, 
and exceeds that projectile to above lat. 50°. By 
the inherent laws of gravitation, if any, the least re- 
tardation is produced on the aerial or fluid masses, 
in the direction of their common motion, a counter 
current must be produced. 

" When we cast an eye over the Atlantic, or that 



360 CLIMATE OF 

deep valley which divides the western coasts of Eu- 
rope and Africa, from the eastern coasts of the New 
Continent, we distinguish a contrary direction in the 
motion of the waters. Between the tropics, espe- 
cially from the coast of Senegal to the Caribbean 
sea, the general current, that which was earliest 
known to mariners, flows constantly from east to west. 
Thh is called the Equinoctial Current. Its mean 
rapidity, corresponding to different latitudes, is the 
same in the Atlantic and Southern ocean, and may 
be estimated at 9 or 10 miles in 24 hours; conse- 
quently from 59 to 65 hundredths of a foot every 
second of time. "* 

This great observer, subjoins to the above, in a 
note: 

" In comparing the observations which I had oc- 
casion to make in the two hemispheres, with those 
which are laid down in the voyages of Cook, La 
Perouse, D'Entrecasteaux, Vancouver, Macartney, 
Krusenstern, and Marchand, I found that the swift- 
ness of the general current of the tropics, varies 
from 5 to 18 miles in 24 hours, or from one third to 
one and two tenth feet per second." 

Comparing the two following documents with the 
accompanying chart, will enable the reader to trace 
the course of the Equinoctial current, and that from 
the ship O spray, the line of separation of the two 
great masses of this ocean flood. 

FROM LATE XONDOW PAPERS. 

Currents of the Ocean. — By the kindness of a friend, 
(says the Glasgow Courier,) a document has been 
put into our hands, which was enclosed in a bottle 
and thrown into the sea just twelve months ago. It 
was taken up on the shores of Martinique, on the 
4th of February last. The bottle had thus travel- 



Humboldt. Personal Narrative, page 63. 



THE UNITED STATES. 361 

led a distance of 2500 miles in about ten months, 
250 miles per month, or 8 miles per day. We give 
a copy of this instructive document, with the notice 
subjoined : 

" The bottle which contains this card was thrown 
into the sea in lat. 5° 12' S., long. 24° 40' W., at 
noon on the 29th day of March, 1820, from the ship 
O spray, of Glasgow, which sailed from Greenock 
on the 20th of February, on a trading voyage round 
the world. Whoever finds this, is requested to in- 
sert a notice of the time and place in some literary 
or political publication, with the view of establish- 
ing facts relative to the currents of the ocean. All 
well." 

This bottle was found on the 4th of February, 
1821, near the eastern point of the Salines Quarter 
of St. Ann's, Martinique, in the best order, as will 
be seen by this paper which it contained. 

St. Pierre, Martinique, ISth Feb., 1821. 

Signed, T, BOURANT, 

Printer and Director of the General Post Office, 

Martinique. 
Paulson's Daily .Advertiser, May 16th, 1821. 

Currents of the Ocean. — About ten days ago, a 
bottle was picked up by Mr. Samuel Knowles, on 
the N. E. side of Eleuthera, in about lat. 25° 30', 
and long. 76° 20', containing a slip of paper, on 
which was written — "United States' frigate, Con- 
gress, May 24, 1821. Homeward bound from Chi- 
na. Lat. 27° 51' N., long. 66° 50' W. All well. 

J. H. S. 

E. P." 
Freeman's Journal, 22nd February, 1822. 

If the reader will turn to the small chart appended 
to this view, and suppose the whole surface in mo- 
tion eastward, and at the same time reflect, that the 
real motion to the east must produce an apparent 
Hh 



362 CLIMATE OF 

motion of the sun in a contrary direction, and that 
this solar motion is even at its minimum over the 
tropics, upwards of 950 miles hourly, he will at 
once perceive another cause of retrograde aerial 
motion. It will be obvious that a vacuum must be 
produced in the atmosphere, immediately under the 
sun, and that this rarefied body must be removed 
westward. It is this aerial current which has re- 
ceived the appellation of Trade Wind (Le Vent 
Alize of the French ) , 

The two currents of the water and air moving in 
the same direction, the inequalities in the motion of 
that of the ocean, there is little doubt, are in great 
part the effects of unequal intensity in that of the 
atmosphere. Both acting, however, in aid of each 
other, are, though irregular in their rate of motion, 
constant in their direction, and combine to produce 
one of the most remarkable amongst the phenomena 
of physical geography. 

The western equinoctial current is felt, though 
feebly, as high as N. lat. 28°, and about as far south, 
though it must be in excess along the equator. The 
eastern salient point of South America, being up- 
wards of 6° of S. lat., the great mass of ocean flood 
is unequally divided. South from Cape St. Roque, 
the current is turned dov/n the coast of South Ame- 
rica, and between S. lat. 30° and 40°, reacts to- 
wards Africa. 

North from Cape St. Roque, the coast of South 
America bends to a general course of N. 62° W., 
and with the Caribbean sea and the Gulf of Mexi- 
co, maintains that direction to the mouth of the Rio 
Grande del Norte, 2560 miles. Along this coast 
the equinoctial current is inflected northward, and 
augmented by constant accumulations from the east. 
The whole body pouring through the various inlets 
between the Windward Islands^ the West Indies, 
into the Caribbean sea, and thence, between Cuba 
and Yucatan, into the Gulf of Mexico. In the latter 



THE UNITED STATES. 363 

reservoir it has reached its utmost elevation, and 
again rushes out into the Atlantic ocean through the 
Cuba, and Bahama or Florida channel, and sweep- 
ing along the coast of the United States and Nova 
Scotia, about N. lat 50° meets the Arctic currents 
from Davis' Straits ; and from the Northern Atlan- 
tic ocean, is turned towards Europe and north-west 
Africa, and is finally merged in its original source with- 
in the tropics. To this oceanic river has been given 
the name of GULF STREAM, It is the second 
most extensive, and much the most strongly marked 
whirlpool on the globe, having an outline of about 
15,000 miles. 

The mean motion of the Gulf Stream is no doubt 
changeable, even at the same points; its periodical 
revolution has been found about 2^ years, and the 
maximum of motion in the Bahama channel. M. 
Humboldt notices this phenomena thus; **In the 
Florida channel, I there observed in the month of 
May, 1804, in the 26th and 2nh degrees of latitude, 
a celerity of 80 miles in 24 hours, or five feet every 
second, though at this period the north wind blew 
with great violence. At the end of the Gulf of Flo- 
rida, in the parallel of Cape Cannaveral, the Gulf 
Stream or current of Florida, runs to the north-east. 
Its rapidity resembles that of a torrent, and is some- 
times five miles an hour."* 

Such a mass of ocean water flowing constantly 
from the torrid zone towards the northern pole, and 
at any given latitude, heated many degrees above 
the temperature of the adjacent ocean, must exert 
great influence on the atmosphere. This influence 
is made manifest by the following table : 

* Personal Narrative, page 65. 







No. 


XXXIV. 






Table of Tempei-ature oftlie Seas in 


both Hemispheres. 










Temp. 








Long-itude 


Period of the 


of the 




Names of 


Latitude. 


from 
London. 


observation. 


ocean 
at its 


Oceans. 


the 
observers. 










surface. 






S°53'N 


90^26' W 


Feb. 


1803 


83°.6 


^S.Sea 


Humbt. 


3 16 S 


86 23 W 


Jan. 


1803 


80.6 


Idem. 


4 8N 


22 54 W 


Oct. 


1788 


81.5 


> Atlan 


Churruca 


3 44 S 


28 low 


Nov. 


1788 


80.6 


\ tic 


Idem. 


4 36N 


53 50 E 


May 


1800 


81.7 


Ind. Sea 


Perrins 


4 44 S 


24 51 W 


April 


1800 


79.5 


Atlantic 


Idem. 


11 12 N 


o7 34 W 


April 


1800 


80.8 


— 


Quevedo 


11 32 S 


29 41 W 


March 1803 


80.6 





Idem. 


11 58 N 


25 46 W 


March 1800 


73.8 


— 


Perrins 


12 30 S 


27 20 W 


April 


1800 


78.4 


— 


Idem. 


15 24 N 


39 44 W 


April 


1803 


74.8 


. — 


Quevedo 


15 50 S 


30 34 W 


March 1803 


79.9 


— 


Idem. 


23 ON 


26 50 W 


Marcl 


»1800 


69.8 


-__ 


Perrins 


23 40 N 


41 6W 


April 


1803 


71.8 





Quevedo 


22 52 N 


22 13 W 


June 


1799 


68.0 





Humbt. 


23 28 S 


29 40 W 


April 


1800 


75.9 


— 


Perrins 


23 30 S 


50 10 E 


May 


1800 


71.6 


Ind. Sea 


Idem. 


31 6N 


79 37 W 


May 


1804 


70.7 


Atlantic 


Humbt. 


31 22 N 


15 7W 


Oct. 


1788 


74.5 


— 


Churruca 


31 58 N 


20 low 


March 1800 


63.9 





Perrins 


31 30 N 


38 45 W 


April 


1803 


69.3 


— 


Quevedo 


31 34 S 


28 29 W 


March 1803 


75.7 


__ 


Idem. 


31 S 


26 sow 


April 


1800 


68.9 


— 


Perrins 


31 34 S 


46 56 W 


Nov. 


1788 


68.9 





Churruca 


31 4S 


47 40 E 


May 


1800 


66.9 


Ind. Sea 


Perrins 


36 38N 


41 2 W 


May 


1803 


66.7 


Atlantic 


Quevedo 


36 5 N 


76 41 W 


May 


1803 


68.0 





Humbt. 


36 4 N 


17 5 W 


June 


1799 


59.4 


— 


[dem. 


33 16 N 


10 24 W 


Oct. 


1788 


72.3 





Churruca 


35 22 S 


50 32 W 


Nov. 


1788 


63.0 


— 


Idem. 


36 3 S 


17 8 W 


April 


1800 


65.8 


— 


Perrins 


36 5 S 


41 58 W 


May 


1803 


68.0 





Quevedo 


33 52 S 


94 52 W 


Feb. 


1803 


71.6 


S. Sea 


Idem. 


40 28 N 


33 35 W 


May 


1803 


62Ji 


Atlantic 


Idem. 


40 SON 


68 26 W 


Julv 


1804 


65l 





Humbt. 


42 34 N 


15 45 W 


Feb. 


1800 


57W 





Perrins 


42 30 S 


50 SOW 


Marcli 1803 


55.8 


— 


Quevedo 


40 36 S 


48 20 W 


March 1803 


59.9 





Idem. 


40 48 Si 93 56 W 


Feb. 


1803 


62.6 


S. Sea 


Idem. 



THE UNITED STATES. 365 

In the progress of our meteorological survey, we 
shall find some remarkable contrasts between the 
temperature of the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and 
that of the atmosphere of the United States, on si- 
milar latitudes. Table No. 34 was extracted from 
Brewster's Encyclopoedia, article Navigation, and 
was compiled for that work, from Humboldt, and 
had it been accompanied by a table of prevalent 
winds, the two taken together would have been in- 
valuable ; but as it is, though confined to the tempe- 
rature of the ocean water, the data are powerful 
aids in fixing the basis of a true theory of general 
climate. I have already premised, that to compre- 
hend the aerial revolutions of any one portion of the 
earth, its meteorology must be taken in connexion 
with that of adjacent regions. It is for these consi- 
derations, and to afford points of comparison, that I 
precede the particular tables on the United States, 
by general tables of temperature on and near the 
eastern margin of the Atlantic ocean. 

No. XXXV. — Table of the monthly mean temperature at 
Santa Cruz, in the Island of Teneriffe, N. lat. 28° 27', 
long. 16° 26' TV. from London, 60° 29' E. from TV. 
C, by Don Francisco Escolur, from May 1808, to Mig, 
1810. 

January - - - = 
February - . _ > 
March . _ . - 
April _ - - - 

May . - _ - 

June 

July .... 

August . - - _ 

September . - _ 
October .... 
November - J||k- 

December . ^Hf - 

Mean of the vear - - - 17.39 70.65 

r«i% Hh2 



Reaumur. 


Fahrenheit, 


14.15 


63.07 


14.35 


64.03 


15.63 


67.01 


15.70 


67.02 ^ 


17.83 


zaoi 


18.62 


73.08 


20.12 


77.02 • 


20.84 


78.09 


20.19 


77.04 


18.96 


74.05 


17.08 


70.04 


15.03 


65.09 



366 CLIMATE OF 

During the summer months, the climate of the 
Canaries is assimilated by the winds to the region of 
the tropics. From April to October, the north-east 
Trade wind prevails uninterruptedly. During the 
remaining months, it partakes of the character of 
the zone without the tropics by the general preva- 
lence of south-westerly winds.* 

If we compare the elements in table 38, page 370, 
with the note to No. 35, it must be evident that the 
south-west and north-east winds are real monsoons. 
M. de Vassalli attributed the course of prevalent 
winds at Turin, to the course of the Po, at that city; 
but when we take the Turin table and compare it 
with other tables in this chapter, it cannot be ration- 
ally doubted, but that south-west and north-east 
winds depend, for their predominance, upon some 
cause more general than mere locality of surface. 
These winds alternate, at not very variable periods, 
from the Gulf of Mexico, in America, to Turin, Pa- 
ris, London, and into Eastern Europe. 



Quarterly Journal of Science, April, 1808. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



16/ 



No. XXXVI. — Table of the temperature of Air over, and 
Water of, the Gulf Strea;m, from observations made by 
John Hamilton. See Table XXXVII. A. P. Transac- 
tions, New Series, Vol. II. pag-e 145. 









w. 


ione-. 


Long. 


Tem. 


Tem. 


Month. 


N. 


lat. 


from 


from 


of 


of 








London. 


W. C. 


air. 


watr. 


April 21 


32° 15' 


77° 18' 


00°23'fi. 


70 


72 


February 15 


32 


40 


78 


09 


1 14 W. 


65 


71 


April 22 


34 


16 


75 


07 


1 48 E. 


61 


71 


Septembers 


34 


42 


69 


38 


7 17 


79 


81 


6 


c,5 


58 


71 


05 


5 50 


76 


78 


October 23 


35 


38 


73 


23 


3 32 


63 


73 


September 28 


36 


50 


m 


57 


9 58 


67 


77 


March 3 


3& 


40 


72 


11 


4 44 


69 


72 


May 2 


36 


49 


71 


42 


5 13 


68 


74 


Vlarch 29 


37 


39 


&7 


20 


9 35 


60 


71 


September 26 


37 


42 


71 


07 


5 47 


67 


73 


29 


o7 


27 


64 


02 


12 53 


65 


76 


May 2 


37 


54 


68 


00 


8 55 


54 


70 


December 23 


o7 


22 


70 


10 


6 45 


53 


72 


24 


37 


39 


63 


00 


7 55 


67 


72 


25 


37 


56 


67 


00 


9 55 


63 


69 


May 30 


37 


36 


68 


42 


8 13 


71 


73 


December 21 


S7 


49 


63 


45 


13 10 


59 


63 


22 


37 


47 


60 


10 


16 45 


62 


63 


23 


37 


54 


56 


15 


20 40 


60 


63 


October 31 


37 


34 


61 


39 


15 16 


71 


70 


May 5 


37 


49 


68 


58 


7 57 


53 


67 


6 


37 


34 


66 


59 


9 5& 


55 


68 


7 


37 


52 


64 


24 


12 31 


57 


67 


xMarch 30 


38 


04 


64 


23 


12 32 


69 


70 


September 30 


38 


05 


62 


00 


14 55 


69 


77 


Mav4 


38 


02 


61 


15 


15 40 


61 


69 


5 


38 


09 


57 


50 


19 05 


68 


69 


December 26 


38 


30 


64 


21 


12 34 


59 


70 


27 


38 


26 


61 


o6 


15 22 


61 


70 


June 1 


b 


25 


62 


00 


14 55 


65 


70 



TABLE XXXVl 


— 


Continued. 












W.long. 


Lono-. i 


Tem. 


Tern 


Month. 


N. 


lat. 


from 


f 


•om 


of 


of 








London. 


w.c. 1 


air. 


watr. 


June 2 


38° 20' 


59° 


36' 


16° 


19'E. 


64° 


69° 


3 


38 


28 


58 


23 


18 


32 


65 


72 


July 27 


38 


30 


68 


26 


7 


29 


72 


72 


June 10 


38 


40 


&S 


35 


10 


20 


70 


73 


11 


38 


43 


61 


35 


5 


20 


71 


71 


November 1 


38 


54 


57 


46 


19 


09 


71 


71 


5 


38 


52 


52 


22 


24 


33 


67 


68 


December 1 


38 


03 


^7 


17 


8 


38 


60 


68 


October 1 


39 


13 


58 


13 


18 


42 


71 


76 


February 21 


39 


01 


53 


10 


23 


45 


54 


64 


December 28 


39 


02 


57 


07 


19 


48 


63 


66 


29 


39 


34 


54 


46 


22 


09 


57 


67 


June 7 


39 


37 


48 


41 


26 


14 


69 


71 


July 29 


39 


02 


m 


51 


10 


04 


73 


70 


30 


39 


12 


69 


44 


7 


11 


75 


73 


31 


39 


41 


63 


39 


12 


16 


77 


74 


October 7 


39 


14 


48 


54 


26 


01 


57 


67 


March 17 


39 


59 


58 


00 


18 


55 


57 


58 


May 24 


39 


57 


61 


03 


15 


52 


65 


68 


November 4 


39 


06 


52 


30 


24 


25 


66 


68 


October 2 


40 


06 


56 


37 


19 


18 


69 


70 


3 


40 


45 


5& 


22 


20 


33 


62 


70 


July 31 


40 


39 


41 


35 


35 


20 


75 


75 


August 1 


40 


06 


42 


56 


33 


59 


75 


77 


2 


40 


15 


43 


43 


33 


12 


76 


76 


3 


40 


49 


45 


05 


31 


50 


76 


76 


1 


40 


20 


60 


32 


6 


23 


77 


76 


2 


40 


52 


57 


19 


18 


36 


74 


72 


29 


40 


27 


64 


23 


12 


32 


64 


73 


30 


40 


06 


&5 


03 


11 


52 


67 


73 


31 


40 


58 


65 


56 


10 


59 


70 


70 


September 1 


40 


33 


^7 


11 


9 


44 


69 


71 


October 13 


40 


46 


65 


09 


10 


46 


55 


69 


14 


40 


42 


65 


29 


11 


26 


59 


73 


July 1 


41 


20 


57 


22 


19 


33 


64 


74 


October 4 


41 


14 


53 


f 


22 


58 


66 


71 


16 


41 


10 


41 


35 


48 


60 


65 


September 16 


41 


41 


54 


51 22 


04 


70 ' 75 1 



CLIMATE. 



369 



No. XXXVII. — Table of the prevaknt winds omr the North 
Atlantic Ocean, from ohsei-vations made by John Hamil- 
ton, during 26 voyages made to and from Europe, prin- 
cipally between Philadelphia and Liverpool, between the 
years 1799 and 1817, inclusive. American Philosoplii- 
cal Transactions. New Series, Vol. 11. page 140. 





o s 


» 
















55 










^ 


Month. 


■■3 t 
1^ 


1 


w. 


N. 


s. 


E. 


3 


January- 


5 


98 


45 


20 


8 


15 


10 


February 


5 


135 


69 


13 


19 


22 


12 


March 


10 


198 


105 


22 


19 


38 


14 


April 


9 


234 


150 


31 


11 


25 


17 


May 


11 


264 


132 


27 


22 


64 


19 


June 


6 


172 


88 


8 


23 


33 


20 


July 


7 


125 


70 


12 


12 


21 


10 


August 


9 


223 


129 


18 


16 


29 


31 


September 


7 


159 


75 


28 


10 


28 


18 


October 


4 


144 


83 


14 


5 


26 


16 


November 


5 


98 


60 


6 


5 


23 


4 


December. 


8 


179 


95 
1101 


9 
208 


17 

167 


37 
361 


21 

192 








Reduced to pror 
1000. 


)ortio 


-P 














542 
1000 


102 
1000 


82 


177 


94 


1000 


1000 


1000 



From table 37 it appears that on the open Atlantic 
Ocean, between America and Europe, and between 
N. lat. 35 and 55, western winds prevail more than 
half the year. In the composition of the table, all 
the winds between N. N. W. and S. S. W. inclusive^ 
are called westerly ; and those from the other points 
of the compass are named from the cardinal points 
in a similar manner, This table supplies the defi- 
ciency of the winds in table 34. 



170 



CLIMATE OF 



til 

1^ Oi '^ 



,o § ® 

i §&q 
ill 

i^C) Ih "^ 
^^'^ 

I ^ S 

& 



« 00 6JD 



H 


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^, 


C7> 


tH 


00 «o t>. 


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1^ 


t^ 


K 


T-< cr»CM 


c^ 


^ 


yo 




b,^o *o 


en 


<s 


00 


w 








^ 


. 


VD C^ 00 


o 




Oi 


en 


00 V5 CO 




1>- 


<o 


> 


^ a> CO 


,9? 


5ir 


c^ 


"^ 


T}< lO VD 


^ 


lO 


vH 


cA 


CO CO CO 


ex 


CO 


CO 


^ 


<0 T-( C? 


CT> 


CO 


00 


-^ iO ^ 


lO 


V5 


-* 






■•— • 






^ 


1-1 00 CO 


c> 


-i|ro 


o 


^ VJ "* 


^ 


l^ 


1— ( 


*■£ 




'^ 


^ 











-l|M 


vo 


^ 


T-l tv,CO 


o 


^ 


• 


CO to t^ 


c^ 




CO 






C) 




^o 


W 






c^(m 


CN 


CO c^ *o 


o 


^o 


• 




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CO 


^ 


CO CO CO 


o 

1—1 


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CO 










Cfl 










c 










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&, 








o 


g 








ex 


(U 






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£s 


h 






CO 


^8 


c 






U- 


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Y^ 


tH 1-. r-< 









rC5 eft 



THE UNITED STATES. 371 

the city on three sides, leaving it only open 
to the east by the valley of the Po. The infrequency 
and very nearly equal quantity of north and south 
winds are remarkable in almost every one of the ta* 
bles in this chapter ; tables representing the winds 
from the centra,! and western regions of North Ame- 
rica, 50° W. of W. C. as far as the city of Turin, 
7° 45' E. from London, 84° 40' E. from W, C, or 
through 134° 40' of longitude, with the Atlantic 
ocean, and the Chippewayan, Appalachian, Pyren- 
nean, and Alpine systems of mountains intervening, 
" On the north-east coast of Asia, the prevailing 
wind is from the west," says Professor Playfair, in 
the Introduction to his Geography. " In Great Bri- 
tain, the south-west is by far the most frequent 
wind. In April, May, and part of June, the east 
wind is common, especially on the east coast of the 
island. In Ireland, the south-west and west are the 
Trade winds. On the south-east of Europe, the 
most frequent winds are the north, north-east, and 
north-west. In the interior parts which are conti- 
guous to the Atlantic ocean, the south-west wind is 
frequent, but in Germany eastern breezes prevail." 
It will appear from comparing the elements in table 
38, with those of other tables in this chapter, 
that Turin is about the point in Europe, where the 
western winds are nearly balanced by currents from 
the great plateau of Asia ; and it will appear also, 
that the winds of Turin cannot be very sensibly in- 
flenced by local causes, as, if so, the prevalent winds 
must have been at that city, from the cold region of 
the Alps, towards the warm bosom of the Mediter- 
ranean. In reality, the conformity of the aerial cur- 
rents over so great, and so diversified a surface, as 
that from the mouth of Columbia, to the sources of 
the Po, is amongst the most interesting, and as far 
as the elements in these tables are correct, one of 
the most decidedly established facts in the sciences 
of geography and meteorologyo 



572 



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THE UNITED STATES. 



373 



No. XL. — Table of the mean temperature, and com- 
parative number of days of the year, on which the winds 
W. of the Meridian prevail at London, compiled from 
the Transactions of the Royal Society. 





Mean 
Temperature. 


Winds W. of the 


Years. 


Merid. prevailed, 
Days 


1800 


50.5 


136 


1801 


51.3 


1511 


1802 


50.0 


167i i 


1803 


50.5 


1511 


1804 


51.8 


126 


1805 


50.0 


138| 


1806 


52.8 


154| 


180r 


50.7 


197* 


1808 


50.5 


160| 


1809 


50.6 


1481 


1810 


51.5 


158* 


1811 


52.7 


139" 


1812 


49.2 


163 


1813 


49.7 


1631 


1814 


48.2 


143 


1815 


51.6 


180 


1816 


49.4 


149 1 


1817 


50.3 


199 


1818 


53.1 


1411 


1819 


51.9 


182 


1820 


49.9 


174 


1821 


52.0 


193 


1822 


53.8 


178 


1823 


51.4 


187 


1824 


52.8 


1891 


1825 


54.0 


1801 


1826 


50.9 


971 


Mean. 




1611 nearly. 



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THE UNITED STATES. 37S 

The winds included in this table, are those west 
of the meridian ; the observations were made at 
Althorp, the seat of Earl Spencer, in Northampton- 
shire, England, about N. lat. 52^°, and considerably'^- 
east of the centre of the kingdom, and even thus far 
removed from the Atlantic coast, the winds from 
the west prevail 61 days in 100, from a mean of the 
8 years in the table, for which the monthly observa- 
tions are complete. Comparing the elements in 
table 40 and 41, we find that western winds are 
much more prevalent in the centre of England than 
at London, but a mean of both tables gives to the 
three western winds a prevalence of more than half 
the year, or the western appear to be to the whole, 
as 52| to 100. The excess coming from three, out 
of eight points. 

The reader will remember, from page 334, that 
discredit has been thrown upon the meteorological 
observations made by the Royal Society of London; 
but the objections were made in a particular man- 
ner to the thermometrical results arising from im- 
proper mode and manner of conducting observations 
with that instrument. The prevalent winds being 
determined from instruments absolutely exposed to 
open air, and less exposed to local influence, may be 
considered as entitled to full credit, and deserve 
confidence the more, as coinciding with the great 
results of similar data on both continents. Compa- 
ring however the mean temperature of the London 
table. No. 40, with Haines's and Brantz's tables, 
Nos. 51, page 389, and 57, page 395, I am strongly 
disposed to consider the strictures on the data from 
which the former was derived, as much too severe. 



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THE UNITED STATES. 



^7f 



No. XLIII. — Table of [the weather as observed at 
several of the United States* Posts, from Dr, 
LoveWs Register, 





'-7, 




#-■-■ -* 


A 








WEATHER. 


M 


PLACES OF OB' 
SERVATION. 


s 






m 


Fair. 


Cloudy. 


Rain.jSnow 




Days. 


Days. 


Days. Days. 


Fori, Brady 


w. 


13.30 


3.27 


7.83'6.02 


Fair. 


Fort Snelling 


N. W. 


16.94 


5.50 


5.7712.22 


Fair. 


Fort Sullivan 


s. ■ 


ir.9i 


9.39 


2.3i;0.81 


Fair. 


Fort Howard 


s. w. 


15.47 


7.98 


4.562.42 


Fair. 


Fort Crawford 


N. W. 


16.80 


6.29 


3.871.33 


Fair. 


Fort Wolcott 


S. W. 


15.31 


8.16 


5.941.02 


Fair. 


Council Bluffs 


s. 


19.68 


6.54 


2.95,1.25 


Fair. 


Fort Columbus 


N. W. 


20.41 


3.56 


5.47 


0.98 


Fair. 


Fort Miffiin 


S.AV. 


21.20 


5A2 


5.20 


0.41 


Fair. 


Fort Severn 


s. 


19.67 


4.50 


5.08 


1.17 


Fair. 


Washington 


s. w. 


17.30 


6.05 


6.44 


0.63 


Fair. 


Fort Johnston 


s. 


16.87 


7.60 


5.85 


0.12 


Fair. 


Fort Moultrie 


N. E. 


22.89 


2.48 


5.00 


0.02 


Fair. 


Cant. Jessup 


S. E. 


18.63 


4.49 


7.25 


0.05 


Fair. 


Baton Rouge 


S. E. 


20.16 


4.08 


6.16 


^ 


Fair. 


Canton. Clinch 


s. w. 


18.69 


2.27 


9.46 


, 


Fair. 


St. Augustine 


N. E. 


20.66 


3.91 


5.83 


, 


Fair. 


Cant. Brooke 


N. E.- 


18.16 


3.91 


8.33 


• 


Fair. 


^verii^e of f j^^2 
the several <!^ ^^^^ 


N. 


18.90 


5.03 5.63 


0.85 


Fair. 


S. W. 


16.48 


6.16 


5.98 


1.77 


Fair. 


s. 


17.55 


5.03 


6.29 


1.49 


Fair. 


years \^^^^. 


S. E. 


16.91 


5.67 


6.49 


1.32 


Fair. 


Average- 


S.AV. 


ir.46 


5.47 


6.10 


1.36 


Fair. 



"^ Tl • 

M 



378 



CLIMATE OF 



No. XLIV. — Table of the prevalent winch in the 
North American Polar sea, as reported in Capt, 
Parry* 8 second voyage. 





N.E. 


N. 


jN.W. 


W. 


S.W. 


S. 


S.E. 


E. 




i;^l, June 


2 


1 


2 


3 


12 


1 


9 


July 


5 


6 


6 


2 


4 


1 


6 


1 


August 


5 





14 


3 


13 


1 


1 


1 


September 


2 





10 


1 


7 


3 


7 





October 


10 


2 


10 





2 





5 


2 


November 


8 


5 


6 


3 


2 


1 


1 


2 


December 


1 


5 


17 





1 





5 


1 


1822, January 


2 


3 


20 


3 











3 


February 


1 


3 


23 





1 











March 


3 


4 


18 


2 


3 





1 





April 


5 


3 


8 


2 


5 


1 


3 


2 


May 


6 


2 


14 


3 


4 





2 





June 


3 


2 


7 


3 


5 


2 


6 


2 


July 


5 


3 


11 


1 


1 


5 


4 


1 


August 


4 


2 


14 


2 


4 





3 


2 


September 


4 


1 


5 


3 


10 





7 





October 


9 


2 


9 








2 


7 


2 


November 


1 


2 


17 


6 


2 





2 





December 


3 


2 


13 


8 


4 








1 


1823, January 


4 


7 


14 


1 


1 


1 


• 3 





February 


4 


4 


18 


2 














March 


1 


6 


16 


6 


2 











April 




4 


17 


3 


4 


1 


1 





May 


4 


2 


9 


3 


5 


3 


6 





June 


2 


7 


13 


2 


3 


2 





1 


July 


2 


3 


7 


1 


G 





13 


1 


August 


5 


2 


9 


1 


2 


3 


8 


1 


Septembej 


5 


O 


7 


3 


5 


1 


5 


1 




104 


86 


336 


68 


112 


28 


95 


24 


Propt'ns.oflOOO 


122 


100 


394,25 


79,75 


132 


B. 


112 


28 


** 


m 


















THE UNITED STATES. 



379 



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s, on Missou. above m'th Platte ri 
y, Wabash, Indiana, I)r. G. Trooi 


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town, by Reub. Haines, mean of 9 year 
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irk Harbour, Fort Columbus, 
t Harbour, Rhode Island, Ft. Wolcot 


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mean of 8 years, 


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a. mean of 4 yrs 

Lewis Brantz, 


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THE UNITED STATES. 381 

impose this chapter on the public, as a complete 
theory of the climate of the United States, but I 
cannot but flatter myself that it contains much docu- 
ment of great tendency to a rational estimate of the 
meteorology of North America. The evidence now 
laid before them will or may prevent emigrants 
from the Atlantic states, removing to the interior 
with an expectation of finding meliorated seasons on 
similariatitudes. They may now see, that both sum- 
mers and winters are more in excessive extremes 
as the great central prairies are approached, and 
they may see also on an immense scale, that clearing 
of land from timber, produces increased extremes, 
in place of melioration on aerial temperature. 

It is of great importance in the investigation of 
the climate of the United States, to find some one 
or more central places for which the mean temper- 
ature is deduced with certainty. To effect this ob- 
ject is no easy task. If the tables in this chapter 
are examined and compared, large and irreconcile- 
able discrepancies will be seen between different 
observers ; and the mean of different years at the 
same place, present a very unequal local tempera- 
ture ; and it may be also discovered, from the hours 
of making the observations, that the mean tempera- 
ture of most places in the United States, for which 
tables have been formed, is stated too high, 

Messrs. Brantz and Haines, from observing very 
early in the morning, have produced tables with 
lower mean temperature, and no doubt much more 
correct than any hitherto published. This prefer- 
ence is given to the labours of those two observers, 
it may be understood, from the time of their obser- 
vations, and not from superior skill or care in their 
operations over others. Due diligence appears to 
have been used in the various military posts from 
which the data for Lov ell's Register were collected, 
but it must be evident that 7 A. M. and 2 and 9 P. 
M. , must, particularly in high northern latitudes, 



38^ 



CLIMATE OF 



give a mean in summer, and of course for the year, 
entirely too great. In order therefore, to procure 
points of reference by which to compare other pla- 
ces, I have assumed the results from Brantz's and 
Haines's tables, as affording the most safe data, and 
proceed with their aid, and that of various observa- 
tions made in that city, to fix the mean tempera- 
ture of Washington, District of Columbia. 

The following tables will enable the ^ reader 
to compare the observations made at the'City of 
Washington, with those of Mr. Reuben Haines at 
Germantown, James Young at Philadelphia, and Mr. 
Brantz at Baltimore. The relative elevation above 
tide water of Capitol Hill, and Mr. Haines's house in 
Germantown, it is probable are very nearly similar; 
difference of lat. 1° 08'. 



No. XL VI. — rTahle of the distribution of Caloric — winds, 
weather, &c. for 1820, at Washington City. Latitude 
38° 50' 40" north. Longitude, 0. 











i 




















o 

c 






_j 


, 


"o c 


S 








^ 


^ 






, 




en 






CO 




^ o 








i* 


CO 






X 












is 

o 




J2 


1 
en 





i 


12; 





9 


si 
1 


o 
30 


3 

58 


o 

c 

1 
5 


J 
U 
35 


Jan. 


45 


4 


29.19 


4 





25*19 


Feb. 


72 


10 


41.88 





4 





I0!l5 


8 


7 


2 


21 


53 


13 


41 


March 


71 


20 


45.99 





3 





3 20 


18 


10 


1 


21 


50 


19 


35 


April 


89 


24 


56.86 





7 


1 


5 


9 


24 


11 


2 


19 


62 


9 


31 


May 


85 


44 


63.15 


2 


7 





17 


7 


12 


8 





39 


47 


7 


40 


June 


96 


50 


72.34 





2 





2 


7 


10 


10 





16 


69 


8 


56 


July 


96 


60 


78.81 


2 


4 





2 


9 


36 


4 


2 


27 


66 


11 


34 


Aug. 


92 


60 


75.71 














8 


42 


5 





24 


65 


4 


38 


Sept. 


88 


43 


67.44 





5 








10 


10 


5 


1 


31 


65 


6 


59 


Oct. 


78 


28 


51.61 


1 


11 





4 


20 


2 


8 


1 


21 


63 


9 


46 


Nov. 


64 


26 


42.32 











15 


12 


9 


5 





27 


55 


8 


49 


Dec. 


45 


4 


29.19 


4l 





25 


19 


9 


9 


1 


30 


58 


5 


31 



THE UNITED STATES. 383 



Notes to table 46. 
WiNDS.—North 13. South 43. East 1. West 108. 
N. West 155. S. West 177. N. East 91. S. East 
11. — Nearly three-fourths from the nvestern semicir- 
cle of the horizon. 
Weather.— Clear 596. Cloudy 297. Calm 495. Rain 

or Snow 104. 
Range. — 100 degrees Fahrenheit, equal 37.77 of the 

Centigrade thermometer. 
Mean Temperature, for 1820, 55.02 Fahrenheit, 
equal 12.77 of Centrigade. 
Temperature of -water on the 30th Dec. 1820 : — 

Fah, Cent. 
Public fountain in F. street, near the 

Catholic Church, 54 12.22 

Hydrant, near Davis & Force's, Penn- 
sylvania avenue, 52 11.11 
Do. near Mr. Appier's, do. 49 9.44 
Do. near Strother's Hotel, do. 50 10.00 

CoMPARISOrfS. 

At Buyukdere, on the European side of the Bosphorus, 
near the Black Sea, about twelve miles from Constan- 
tinople. Thermometer in shade at noon. 



Highest. 


Lowest, jyiean. Range 


July 1799, 95 


79 87.00 16.00 


August, 87 


70 78.50 17.00 


At Jaffa, Jappa of the Scripture, 




July 1800, 94 


84 89.00 10.00 


At Grand Cairo. 




July 1801, 106 


95 100.50 11.00 


Dec. 1801, 83 


64 73.50 19.00 




J. MEIGS. 



Qeneral Land Office^ Jan, 22, 1821. 



;84 



CLIMATE OF 



No. XhYII.— Table of the monthly and annual mean tem- 
perature, at Washington City, from ohservatimis made 
in the Columbian Institute, hy the Rev. Robert Little. 



















Annual 


Months. 


1821* 


1822 


1823 


1824 


1825 


1826 


1827 


Mean. 


Jan. 


27.3 






44.4 


35.00 


36.00 


30.00 


33.0 


Feb. 


44.13 


36.41 




40.8 






42.00 


40.80 


March 


42.31 






50.4 


48.05 


49.00 


48.00 


46.9 


April 


51.33 


57.46'70.20 


59.0t 


56.00 


53.00 


60.00 


55.56 


May 


66.06 




77,0 




65.00 


73.05 


64.90 


67.0 


June 


75.51 




79.9 






77.00 


73.51 


73.3 


July 


74.60 




83.1 


79.00 


79.00 


74.00 


81.00 


77.5 


Aug-. 


79.40 




82.9 






77.00 


80.50 


78.8 


Sept. 


72.14 




73.4 


69.00 


69.00 


72.00 


85.00 


72.3 


Oct. 


57.11 




60.6 


57.00 


57.00 


59.00 




58.3 


Nov. 


42.21 




45.3 


43.50 


43.50 


47.50 




44.3 


Dec. 


32.62 




43.2 


40.00 


40.00 


37.00 




36.4 


Mean 


57.09 



* Column headed 1821, from Mr. J. Meigs. See ta- 
ble 46. 

f From April 1823 to April 1824 inclusive, on tlie 
authority of M. de Wallenstein, Trans. A. P. S. New 
Series, vol. ii. page 436. The years 1823 and 1824, 
being far above the common temperature, and yielding, 
according to M. de Wallenstein, an annual mean of 
62.2, the months are omitted in making up the ag- 
gregate in the right hand column of table 47. In 
1823, according to the Rev. Mr. Little, the mean of 
May was 66°; according to M. de Wallenstein 77°. 
September, by the former 68°, by the latter 73°. 04. 
In 1824, January according to Mi-. Little 38°, to M. 
de Wallenstein 44°. 4. The mean from April 1823 
to March 1824 inclusive, was estimated by Brantz at 
Baltimore 53°.98; by Haines at Germantown 52°.28; 
and by James Young in Philadelphia 58°. 54. It is 
probable that M. de Wallenstein's thermometer was in- 
fluenced by some local cause, which increased the tem- 
perature. The mean in Lovcll's Register, for Fort 
Moultrie in Charleston harbor, 6° 11' S. from Washing- 



THE UNITED STATES. 385 

Compared with either Haines or Brantz, the 
mean in table 47 is too high. If we allow a minute 
of latitude as equal to the 60th part of a degree of 
temperature, and on that datum deduce the mean of 
Washington from that of Baltimore in table 50, we 
have 53°-}-24' or 53°. 4 as the mean of the latter. 
It is 70 minutes of latitude between Washington and 
Germantown, which on the preceding rule would 
give to the former, from Haines's mean of latitude, 
53°. 466. It is remarkable also, that if on the differ- 
ence of latitude and temperature, applied to the 
mean of Charleston, South Carolina, that of Wash- 
ington comes out 54°. 09. Mr, J. Meigs in 1821, 
found a mean for that single year, of 55°. 02 ; Mr. 
Brantz deduced 52^°, and Mr. Haines 49°.6 for the 
same period. If Mr. Meigs' mean was corrected 
from the Baltimore table, it would be reduced to 
52°. 9, and if from the Germantown table, to a frac- 
tion less than 51°. It is rendered probable from 
the preceding reasoning, that the real mean tem- 
perature of Washington City is so near 53^°, as to 
admit the adoption of that number. 

If therefore we allow one degree of Fahrenheit, 
as an equivalent for a degree of latitude, and the 
converse, and again estimate 400 feet elevation, as 
sufficient to lower the thermometer one degree, and 
suppose the mean of Washington found at 53^°, we 
have the necessary principles to deduce the mean 
temperature of any other place, within perhaps 5 
or 6 degrees of latitude, either north or south, by 
having the latitude and relative height given. So 
many localities, however, contribute to slightly in- 

ton, is from April 1823, to March 1824 inclusive, only 
65° 92' or 3|° more than deduced by M. de Wallenstein 
for the same period, at the latter place ; and it is shewn, 
I trust conclusively, in this chapter, that the tempera- 
ture shown in Dr, Lovell's Register, is at least sufficient- 
ly elevated. 

Kk 



386 



CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES. 



fluence the thermometer, that only general results 
can be expected from such comparative estimates, 
and when the diiFerence of latitude becomes consid- 
erable, such rules would be altogether delusive. 

I may here again repeat the observation, that in 
all the tables of aerial temperature in this chapter, 
the discrepancies are greater than can arise from 
the relative height of places, or their differences in 
arc, and shew the great difficulty of procuring satis- 
factory results on meteorology, and enhance the ne- 
cessity of paying more attention than has been hith- 
erto done to prevailing winds, freezing of rivers and 
vegetable indications of temperature. 

No. XL VIII. — Table of the prevailing monthly winds at 
Washington City, constructed from the Rev. Mr. Lit- 
tle's monthly tables, and reduced to proportions of 1000. 



Months. 


N. E. 


N. 


N.W. 


w. 


s.w. 


s. 


S. E. 


E. 


January 


149 


65 


410 


100 


190 


30 


47 


10 


February 


181 


137 


151 


142 


166 


181 


35 


20 


March 


138 


90 


300 


104 


117 


120 


87 


30 


April 


165 


75 


270 


115 


190 


130 


40 


10 


May 


177 


30 


188 


70 


260 


50 


25 


30 


June 


164 


40 


147 


40 


393 


70 


75 


00 


July 


159 


50 


247 


00 


283 


108 


85 


20 


August 


221 


52, 


221 


17 


327 


26 


180 


10 


September 


241 


n 


125 


22 


220 


129 


140 


31 


October 


126 


87 


338 


40 


300 


55 


130 


7 


November 


150 


25 


305 


140 


235 


115 


123 





December 
Amount 


140 


52, 


369 


67 


154 


127 


102 





2011 


77& 


3071 


857 


2835 


1141 


1069 


168 



The elements in table 48, afford very important 
data. The whole amount of winds are 11,928, of 
which 6763 are from the three great points west of 
the Meridian, whilst those in an opposite direction 
or from S. E., E. and N. E. only amount to 3248. 



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January, 

February, 

March, 

April, 

May, 

June, 

July, 

August, 

September, 

October, 

November, 

December, 


4 



388 



CLIMATE OF 



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No. LT. — Table of {he uwnihh/ excess of heat and cold at 
Baltimc/re, compiled from obscrvatiuns made by Lewis 
Brantz. H. hii'-hest, I., lowest. 



Month 


i8i7;iai8 

_ i 


1819 


1820 1821 


1822 


1823 1824 




H 


l,!h 


L. 


n 


L. 


H 


L. 


II. 


L. 


H. 


L. 


H. 


L. 


H. 


L. 


January- 


60 


552 


9 


60 


17 


54 


_9 


55 


-6 


44 


-1 


52 


15 


62 


25 


February 


56 


-4 59 


-2 


60 


13 


To 


10 


63 


18'66 


14 


49 


9 


58 


9 


March 


64 


1 8 '68 


16 


71 


14 


76 


13 


64 


1573 


24 


62 


18 


60 


26 


April 


84 


36 70 


25 


74 


26 


88 


18 


68 


2282 


30 


77 


34 


78 


32 


May 


83 


43 84 


37 


85 


35 


84 


42 


90 


4288 


51 


87 


42 


80 


43 


June 


84 


4190 


54 


94 


54 94 


47 


89 


55,90 


56 


87 


52 


89 


50 


July 


92 


5494 


60 


96 


55 95 


58 


92 


5793 
59,92 


61 


92 


56 


88 


63 


August 


88 


48 88 


63 


98 


53 98 


58 


95 


62 


90 


59 


84 


58 


Septem. 


86 


44 85 


42 


95 


42 90 


40 


93 


4788 


52 


88 


39 


82 


46 


October 


70 


30 74 


30 


78 


25 79 


26 


79 


32'80 


34 


74 


32 


73 


32 


Novem. 


74 


20 73 


25 


70 


22 64 


19 


62 


28165 


30 


58 


25 


63 


28 


Decern. 


62 


6 56 

1 


5 


54 


1050 


14 


52 


lolei 


11 


54 


22 


eo 


25 



From this table it appears that in a connected se- 
ries of 8 years the thermometer rose to 98 twice, 
August 14th, 1819, and August 12th, 1820; and sunk 
four times below zero, February 15th, 1817, Febru- 
ary 10th, 1818, January 1st, 1820, and January 25th, 
1821. In 1817, from March 31st to October 28th, 
213 days temperature above 36°; 1818, from April 
23d to October 22d, 182 days temperature above 
37°; 1819, from April 2d to October 26th, 207 days 
temperature above 40°; 1820, from April 11th to 
October 22d, 195 days temperature above S3°; 
1821, from April 20th to October 20th, 183 days 
temperature above 32°; 1822, from April 3d to 
November 4th, 212 days temperature above 39°; 
1823, from March 22d to October 18th, 210 days 
temperature above 36°; and 1824, from March 23d 
to October 22d, 219 days temperature above 32°. 
The summer, therefore, of Baltimore and vicinity, 
averaged from 1817 to 1824 inclusive, 202^ days. 
See table for Harmony. 

Kk 2 



590 



CLIMATE OF 



No. I.II. — Table of the monthly winds at Baltimore ^ 
from a mean of 8 years, constructed from Mf. 
Brantz's tables. 



Months-. 


NE. 


NW. 


sw. 


SE. 


.lanuarv 


38 


91 


38 


62 


Febi'uaiy 


49 


77 


53 


55 


Marcli 


46 


86 


46 


61 


April 


36 


n 


61 


63 


May 


37 


70 


37 


98 


June 


32 


56 


69 


83 


July 


52 


49 


62 


87 


August 


48 


56 


48 


99 


September 


58 


62 


o?i 


73 


October 


57 


88 


49 


62 


November 


44 


n 


48 


60 


December 


62 


83 


52 


42 


Amount 


559 


870 


596 


845 


Decimally expressed 


194 


303 


208 


295 



The proportions of the winds in this table differ 
so essentially from every other in this chapter, and 
the other tables being founded on observations so 
widely and so unconnectedly made, would certainly 
justify a suspicion of some local influence on Mr. 
Brantz's Anemometer. However, in this case the' 
winds from the western side of the meridian pre- 
ponderate. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



391 





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No. LIV. — Monthly Mean temperature at PJiiladet 
phia, deduced from a connected series of 20 years ohser" 
vatioris, made hy Mr. James Young at the PhlJad. Insu* 
ranee Office, corner of 2nd and Dock streets. 



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cs(t^i^c^^0"*h^o*oh-oo*o<0'ocr>^o^'*'-'00oo 


lt.idv 


0*0*0 *o*o *oo»o *o ^ ^'^- '^ 

'>iobIr-ilOCOOO^jNlbl^COCnW3-*0'^-^O^b- 

•00*00 io*oy:;*o»o'oo*o*o^'o*o<jDioo>o*o 


qo.iniv 


*o>o*o*o *0*O OroOOO c^ 

t^b-h,t^ t^b- *OC0*O*O*Ol>-Cnr-<r-^<O 

o^ CO CN CN CO »o ^ CO nI ra^' *o *o d o *o* 00 ;^ ;^ T:f 52 ^ 

co-^'^"<d**0'*"*-<^-*-*'*'r-^'*''^^"^'*''''*"^ 


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CN l^ t^b-CNt^O) CVCNC^OO lOOOCO^CO 

C0-^c5CT.r0O*0C0C^Oh-O0lC0O00O>^00CT>O 
CO ^ CO CO ^0 CO CO CO CO ^ CSI CO CO rf rj< CO CO CO CO CO CO 


•uT?r 


*0»0 O 0*0*0*0 „^._-v 

CNN, *0 »Oiv-^.tv. '^^^^^^ 

CNCOO%T}<'^»Hr-^C^-vj^d^COlOO>0 0-<*C?l'>DTi<OJ 

CO CO CJ CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CN CO CO CO CO CO CO 




lN-00CnOTHCNC0r}<»O<ON.C0OOr^C^C0'J*0O J-' 
COCOCOCOCCOOCOOOOOCOCOCOOOOOOOOOCOCOCOOO 0, 



CLIMATE. 



393 



No. LV. — Table of the annual winds 'at Philadelphia^ 
f(yr 21 years f formed from observations made by Mr, 
James Young, at the Philadelphia Insurance Office, cor- 
nier of Second and Dock streets. 





N.E. 


N. 


N.W. 


W. 


S.W. 


S. 


S. E. 


E. 


1806 


234 


41 


191 


174 


210 


77 


75 


42 


1807 


157 


55 


287 


98 


252 


70 


60 


24 


1808 


197 


35 


225 


71 


260 


80 


81 


32 


1809 


220 


55 


198 


103 


256 


47 


50 


23 


1810 


204 


51 


241 


76 


238 


48 


85 


39 


1811 


253 


36 


241 


78 


253 


48 


58 


21 


1812 


198 


38 


278 


132 


215 


35 


65 


35 


1813 


173 


48 


261 


111 


255 


46 


63 


17 


1814 


150 


52 


239 


122 


265 


47 


7G 


29 


1815 


175 


48 


269 


120 


237 


45 


61 


29 


1816 


166 


67 


277 


98 


263 


49 


51 


25 


1817 


181 


66 


252 


117 


229 


64 


51 


31 


1818 


173 


59 


209 


149 


251 


34 


47 


39 


1819 


193 


62 


173 


161 


268 


68 


59 


26 


1820 


197 


53 


192 


110 


292 


60 


54 


36 


1821 


174 


67 


209 


137 


225 


80 


73 


48 


1822 


192 


50 


177 


119 


301 


79 


102 


30 


1823 


201 


35 


204 


143 


300 


56 


77 


32 


1824 


193 


^7 


245 


135 


2r9 


64 


75 


43 


1825 


258 


42 


203 


121 


256 


62 


100 


34 


1826 


223 


44 


193 


158 


251 


65 


92 


51 


Annual 
mean. 


196 


49 


227 


120 


255 


58 


69 


32| 



The annual mean in No. 55, as well as in No. 58, 
are reduced to proportions of 1000; and it is remark- 
able, that in the Philadelphia table, the three wes,- 
tern winds constitute 602 thousandths, in the Ger- 
mantown table 663 thousandths, and in the table of 
the Arctic winds No. 44, page 378, the western 
again amount to 602 thousandths of the whole. 



394 



CLIMATE OF 



3 

^ CO 






is 
■2 2 



g-* 
i^ 



oi O 

^ o 



1^ 


iHC^'^COCN --e to VO 


CO 
V5 




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:^ 


tH 


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V5 

00 


CO CO in <o *o c>» ■* Ci CO T? 

CNTji>r5-3i-IcO»MCOCOh!cOCO 
COCO^l^OOt^OON-OvjTfiCO 




00 


V5 

b^ V5 CO 

00 b- O^ O 00 CO V5 <o ■<* b- CN OJ 

<OCOO^Oii-<O^V>Oi'*COCOO 
C0C0C0'*O<OK.^V0*0ti<C0 


r-l 

V5 


CO 

CO 




V5 


'-• 


CO *r> CO 
tOtNcoCN r-iVj-'^THCO 

V5ls.CN(NC<J^V3CO-!j<tC«r)CO 
CNC^-sp^OOb-t^iv^OlDT^CO 


W5 


r-l 


b, T? *o 00 *n h. -«? 

b-CON.'c'Ob^r-t^COT-iaiOO 
C^C0C0"*^«3i^l>-<O*^C0C^ 


to 


00 


>n to b- 1>^ V5 CO cj 

<o<Mo^cohIoo*ioc^to'oi>^co 
CNcocoio'oyDlN.l:^to»ccoCN 


^ 

i 


00 

T-t 


b^<o «o 

i>, •<* 00 to iH (O 

(N to vj 00 CN to CO 
to h- In. to »o '^ CO 








January- 
February 
March 
April 
May 
June 
July 
August 
September 
October 
November 
December 


c 
a 
d) 



THE UNITED STATES. 



595 







^^g^^^^Jf?^^^^^ 


i 


*ovoi>-ooo>a>aiooooi^vovo 




c 




i< 


^^^^^^^t^^^^ 


00 


6 


C^V5CT>i-iCO<Oa>Or-lOOi-i 
T-t ,H CO CO -<* *0 *0 ^ CO c< c^ 


1 


S;§5g^gg§gs^2?;s 


00 




0>C0 1>»CNCOV5tN,COCO(NOOC7^ 
COCO'>*»OiOCOCOr-(rH 


M 

s 


C0V5aiai>r5r-ltN.C0-^rJ<OO 
V5-^V)t^COOCOCOCOb,»OV5 


T-( 




"^r-l i-IO00CSJ<N<Ot-,V:ir-IO 
TMC^CO^tOyOVJ-^COCOr-l 




tC-^OOOiOOOl^CTitOOOVS 
■*<O«Oi^000000C000i^<O»O 


CO 


■ c 


OOiCNCOC^V^Oi-iOtJioOO 
i-iT-(T-(CN-^V5y3^OC0C0CMr-f 


^ 

s 


(MC>OC^COtO»>-CN*opV5yO 
iO^Ot^t^OOOOOOO^OOKlO-^ 


th 




'^^Sc^^^SS^g^g^S 


i 


^§SSSfe§BSSg^^ 


CO 




V5 -^ CN O 00 00 O 
»0 V) VO >0 CN CN rH 




a> c^} vo to "^ 00 00 
00 a> Oi 00 K vo "<* 




J3 

o 

1^ 


c -^ c4 Art 5 'H a o o o <i^ 

>i| fc! s <i § ^ ^ <j ?^ o ^ o 



396 



CLIMATE OF 



The result of mean temperature at Germantown 
by Mr. Haines, corresponds in a very striking man- 
ner with that deduced from Mr. Brantz's tables for 
Baltimore. The difference of latitude between the 
two points of observation is 47', and the difference 
of annual mean temperature 67 hundredths of a 
degree of Fahrenheit. The relative latitude at an 
allowance of a degree of latitude to a degree of the 
thermometers used, would yield a difference of 78 
hundredths in mean temperature. 

No. LVIII. — Table of the prevalent winds at German- 
town, near Philadelphia^ from eight years' observations 
made by Reuben Haines. 



Year. 


N.E. 


N. 


N.W. 


w. js.w. 


S. 


S.E. 


E. 


1820 


148 


21 


182 


261 


217 


2>7 


80 


49 


1821 


57 


48 


174 


268 


166 


53 


115 


65 


1822 


116 


43 


475 


98 


205 


16 


37 


7 


1823 


107 


97 


165 


407 


175 


71 


80 


125 


1824 


75 


80 


109 


323 


135 


93 


48 


116 


1825 


105 


2,5 


140 


410 


145 


51 


61 


78 


1826 


91 


32 


158 


361 


163 


32 


72 


93 


1827 


95 


40 


185 


333 


163 


49 


30 


105 


Amount 


794 


396 


15882461 


1369 


402 


523 


638 


Pro. of 1000 


97.1 


48.4 


194.3 301 


167.5 


49.2 


64 


78.5 



In this, as in most other tables ot wind in this 
chapter, the north and south winds nearly balance 
each other, whilst those from the three western, ex- 
ceed those from the three eastern points as 3 to 1 
nearly. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



397 



No. LIX. — Meteorological Register^ for July^ 1^2^y^kept 
on the Capitol Hilly Washington^ D. C, by TV. E. 





ll 


en 


.a 


Rain 






s 

5 


1 


IQOth 
inches 


1 


82 


sw. 


Cloudy ; ev. gust. 




2 


69 


NW. 


Clear: It. breeze 




3 


70 


NW. 


Cloudy: mod. br. 




4 


68 


NW. 


Clear : m. b. 




5 


69 


NE. 


Clear: m. b. 




6 


72^ 


SW. 


Clear : light b. 




7 


80i 


SW. 


Clear: l.b. 




8 


rih 


SSE.SW. 


Cloudy : brisk b. rain 


.08 


9 


68.4 


NW. 


Clear: l.b. 




10 


73| 


NW. 


do. do. 




11 


75 


SW.NW. 


do, do. 




12 


73 


SW.SE. 


do. do. 




13 


80^ 


SE.SW. 


CPdy: wind and rain 


.41 


14 


76 


SW. 


Cloudy : m. b. rain 


.95 


15 


70 


NW.SW. 


Cloudy : hr. b. rain 


.10 


16 


72^ 


NW. 


Clear: mod. b. 




17 


70^ 


SW.NW. 


do. do. 




18 


72A 


SW. 


do. do. 




19 


74^ 


SW. 


Misty ; 1. b. 




20 


79 


SW.SE. 


Cloudy : 1, b. rain 


.12 


21 


78 


SW. 


Clear: m, b. 




22 


81^ 


SE. 


Cloudy : m. b. rain 


.05 


23 


81^ 


SW. 


Clear : br, b. 




24 


82* 


SW. 


do. do. 




25 


82 


sw.w. 


Cl*r: 1. b. ev. cl'y: r'n 


.10 


26 


82^ 


NW. 


Cloudy ; m, b. rain 


.05 


37 


84 


SW. 


Clear : m, b. 




28 


80 


NW.SE. 


do. do. 




29 


75 


NE.NW. 


Cloudy : br. b. 




m 


75i 


NW.SW. 


Clear: m. b. 




31 


79 


S.W. 


Cloudy :, m. b. ralii 


.05 










1.91 



xl 



398 



CLIMATE OF 



Notes to No. 59. 
Maximum temperature on the 27th, 94 ; minimum on 
the 5th, 58 ; difference of extremes, 36 ; mean of do. 76. 

No. LX. — Table of the diurnal and mean heat, and 
firevalent winds at Germantown, for July, 1828, 
by Reuben Haines, 



Day 


Thermometer. 


Prevaihng' winds. 


Rain. Inches. 


1 


72J 


S. 




2 


70 


w. 




3 


68 


sw.w. 




4 


71 


NW. 




5 


68^ 


NW. 




6 


71 


W. 




7 


76 


SW. 




8 


7-3 


s. 


1.80 


9 


70 


SW. 




10 


69^ 


w.sw. 


.5 


11 


72^ 


SW. 




12 


70 


w. 




33 


66^ 


SE.S. 




14 


rn 


SE.SW. 


.28 


15 


73^ 


W.SW. 


.90 


16 


74 


SE.SE. 




17 


72 


W. 


18 


18 


72 


NW.W. 


.20 


19 


74 


W.SW. 




20 


70 


W.N. 




21 


74 


NW.W. 


.45 


22 


76j, 


SW.W. 




23 


78 


W. 




24 


79 


W.SW. 


.10 


25 


80i 


SW. 




26 


89i 


SW. 


.10 


27 


8H 


w. 




28 


8H 


W.SW. 




29 


72i 


N.W. 




30 


75\ 

7U 


N.W. 

S.SW. 




31 


4.56 1 



THERMOMETER. 

Max. on 26th, 91 -, Min. 4th & 5lh, 60; Meanof mth74. 



THE UNITED STATES. 399 

Table 57, p. 385, exhibits a range of 106, the ther- 
mometer having risen to 96, on August 1st 1819, and 
sunk to 10° below zero, on January 25th 1821. In 
fact, from the 11th to the 27th of January 1821, Mr. 
Haines's thermometer floated between 37 above, to 
10 below zero. At the same period, Mr. Brantz's in- 
strument at Baltimore, veered between 6° below and 
40° above zero. The observations of Mr. J. Young 
in the city of Philadelphia, indicate simultaneous 
extremes of temperature, but the latter as usual 
several degrees above his co-observers. 

It is shewn by Mr. Haines's data, that in 1820, 
from the 20th of April to October 24, 187 days, the 
temperature was above 38°. 

In 1821, from April 20th to November 12th, 206 
days, the temperature was above 34°. 

In 1822, from April 3rd to November 4th, 214 
days, the temperature was above 36°. 

In 1823, from March 30th to November 1st, 215 
days, the lowest temperature was 32°, 

In 1824, from April 5th to October 29th, 207 
days, the temperature stood above 33°. 

The following comparative view of the summers 
at Baltimore and Germantown, is the more worthy 
of interest, from the fact so clearly shewn by the 
tables in this chapter, that of all the observers who 
have collected thermometrical data concerning the 
United States, Messrs. Brantz and Haines have de- 
duced the lowest comparative mean temperature. 

No. LXI. — Temperature of Summer at Baltimore. 
By Mr. Lewis Brantz. 

1820. April 11 to Oct. 22nd, 195 days. 

1821. April 20 to Nov. 20th, 214 days. 

1822. April 3rd to Nov. :^0, 241 days. 

1823. March 22 to Nov. 18, 241 days. 

1824. March 23 to Oct. 22, 219 days. 



400 CLIMATE 01' THE UNltED STATES. 

Summer at Germantown by Reuben Haines. 

1820. April 20th to Oct. 24, 187 days. 

1821. April 20th to Nov. 12, 206 days. 

1822. April 3 to Nov. 4, 214 days.* 

1823. March 30 to Nov. 1st, 215 days. 

1824. April 5th to Oct. 29, 20r days. 

In respect to influence on vegetation, cold rains 
tod chilling winds, though unattended by real cold 
so low as the freezing of water, nevertheless re- 
trench from real summer; but with every deduction 
the true vegetable summer, or the season in which 
mean heat exceeds 60° of Fahrenheit, over the At- 
lantic portion of the middle states, exceeds 150 days 
in a mean of an extensive series of years; though in 
some years untim.ely frosts occur in almost every 
month, of which 1816 was a very remarkable in- 
stance. 



* On the 5th of November Mr. Haines's thermometer 
fell to 31°, but rose again and ranged between 32** and 
50°, generally about 40°, until the 2nd of December, and 
it may be observed that the summer of two places so 
contiguous as those in this table, may have an apparent 
great difference of summer from a single frost. From 
both these tables it is shewn, that the Atlantic slope of 
the United States, where but slightly elevated above 
the Oceanic level, has in common years, a summer of 
from 180 to 240 days, or from 6 to 8 months. 



Monthly 
mean. 


OOCOiv.C^h^(N*r^cOb,Oi-tvr5 
i-HiOOVOOOCNCN'*(N»000 


00 

CO 








00 


00O'*CNC^C01^O<N00V5b, 
TJilO»OOCNO^CO(noOCOO'=}< 

i-( CN CO CO »0 V5 ^ C^ V) CM rH 


CO 


r-l 


T-ITj<»0 CNCOr-(TJ<CNTHi-IcO 


^ 

CO 

CO 




i^'*ro"<?o>050a>ococr>'-t 

<00»0*0*OOOOCO<OlOrJtr-( 
COCOC^-^iHOCOOOrHC^CN 


00 

CO 
d 


CO 

r-t 


CO CO «0 iH rl ^ "^ CO C^ C^ bl 


^ 

^ 


iH 


OOOvoN.'*cr>co»0'^o»r5 

iv-O^C^i-lrHTf«OOCOTj<C^OC^ 
,t4 CN C^ C^ C^ tH CO T-^ »0 T-I >0 rH 


K 

i 




■<#OOV50Cn«3CO-^is.<N<£;00 
' ^* * CO to C^ r4 * vi CO '^ CN 


CO 


8 

00 


V3 1-1 «:) 00 O ■* V5 •<* CN lO 
V5 O CO 00 V5 y3 Oi Oi r-l CN 

C<*0 <Oi-i<OC0t-I00C0C0 


a 

^ 


CO 


T? to '^ Tj* o to 


d 






c 
o 
£ 



1 2 



402 



CLIMATE OF 



l>i o.hXlll.— Table of the comjiaraiive monthly mean 
temperature of JVetv Harmony and Philadelphia^ 
for^l826, the former standing 1° A7' more south- 

^ nvardly, and also elevated above the latter about 
340feet. 

New Harmony Gazette, No. 19, vol. 2, p. 152. 





New Harmony. 


Philadelphia. 


S 


S 




B 


S 






3 


s 




3 


s 






s 


a 


c 


s 


S 


^ 




*s 


■?< 


a 


*5 


'i< 


rt 






ci 


<u 




a 


O) 


January 


'^ 


1^ 


^ 


"^ 


^ 


g 


4° 


75° 


35.1 


7 


60 


37 


February 





68 


37.1 


4 


66 


38 


March 


30 


82 


57 


22 


74 


44 


April 


25 


85 


57.9 


27 


75 


52 


May 


51 


93 


73.6 


48 


91 


75 


June 


56 


98 


76.5 


54 


94 


74 


July 


55 


93 


76.3 


56 


90 


76 


August 


41 


92 


74 


60 


86 


75 


September 


37 


83 


65 


44 


88 


68 


October 


31 


82 


62,6 


30 


78 


58 


November 


20 


77 


44 


30 


64 


45 


December 


—4 


66 


35 


4 


60 


30 ^ 



57.84 
Difference 1,34 



56,5 



THE UNITED STATES. 



403 



No. LXIV. — Table of the monthly mean temfiera- 
ture at A''ew Harmony , Indiana^ jV. lat. 38° 11', 
W. long. 10*^50', extracted from the Kem) Har- 
mony Gazette. Obser-her, Gerard Troost. 













>, 


>» 




S 


E 








13 




;=) 


i-t 






jj> 




Month. 


e 


S 
'5 


i 


c 


♦J 


1 




c4 




c3 


4) 


o 


"o 




^ 


% 


P3 


^ 


M 


28 


1826, July 


93 


38 


38 


76.3 


21 


Aug. 


92.7 


41 


51-7 


74 


14 


28 


Sept. 


83 


37 


46 


65 


9 


27 


Oct. 


82 


31 


51 


62.6 


31 


10 


Nov. 


77 


20 


57 


44.1 


6 


19 


Dec. 


66 


4 


70 


35.5 


17 


27 


1827, Jan. 


59 


—5 


54 


27 


25 


12 


Feb. 


75 


16 


59 


45.5 


23 


12 


Marcli 


75 


25 


50 


49.1 


29 


15 


April 


82 


SO 


50 


55 


25 


17 


May 


86 


31 


55 


61.2 


28 


7 


June 


96 


41 


55 


74.1 


19 


22 


July 


93 


69 


24 


81.4 


12 


19 


Aug. 


96 


55 


41 


77 


5 


22 


Sept. 


87 


32 


55 


66,3 


4 


27 


Oct. 


75 


20 


55 


48.83 


O 


27 


Nov. 


72 


18 


54 


42.54 


3 


21 


Dec. 


66 


21 


45 


39.71 


3 


12 


1828j Jan. 


64 


12 


52 


40.23 


5 


21 


Feb. 


68 


12 


56 


41.98 


2 


28 


March 


82 


20 


62 


51.59 


26 


4 


April 


86 


28 


58 


55.23 


30 


5 


May 


91 


42 


49 


68.12 


4 


8 


June 


96 


55 


41 


78.48 


24 


13 


Meun of the yeai 




1 


56.69 







404 



CLIMATE OF 



No. LXV. — Table of the monthly winds at JSTew 
Harmony from a mean of two years, commencing 
July, 1826, ending June, 1828, both months inclu- 



Months. 


N.E. 


N. 


N.W 


W. 


S.W 

33 


S. 
17 


S.E. 
11 


E. 

22 


January- 


33 


22 


22 


37 


February 


9 


13 


16 


40 


37 


30 


15 


11 


March 


14 


15 


24 


33 


54 


17 


14 


10 


April 


8 


13 


32 


^6 


43 


33 


4 


14 


May 


16 


7 


26 


26 


44 


31 


12 


13 


June 


4 


4 


6 


20 


35 


27 


8 


8 


July 


9 


32 


19 


17 


41 


28 


11 


2 


August 


46 


34 


11 


12 


34 


25 


14 


15 


September 


27 


35 


14 


13 


32 


19 


18 


22 


October 


20 


38 


20 


54 


23 


22 


11 


14 


November 


13 


30 


30 


32 


18 


33 


4 


22 


December 


12 


18 


28 


29 


46 


32 


9 


13 




201 


261 


248 329 


440 


314 


131 


66 


Propor. of 1000 'lOl 


131 


124 Il65 


221 


155 


&5 


33 



The winds at New Harmony were observed by 
Dr. Gerard Troost, at morning, noon, and evening. 
The period, though rather too limited for a con- 
clusive result, yet gives to each wind a relative 
mean, which corresponds with an astonishing ap- 
proximation to the tables for other and very distant 
parts of the continent. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



405 



No. liXVI. — Table of the monthly depth, in inches, ofraini 
at New Harmony, by Dr. Troost. 



Months. 


1826. 


1827. 


1828. 


Mean. 


January 




3.17 


5.45 


4.31 


February 




4.05 


4.04 


4.04 


March 




3.42 


3.34 


3.38 


April 




6.37 


2.67 


4.52 


May 




1.65 


3.58 


2.61 


June 




3.30 


5.53 


4.41 


July 


3.75 


3.34 




3.54 


August 


1.95 


7.74 




4.84 


September 


4.25 


1.34 




2.80 


October 


1.85 


3.84 




2.84 


November 


1.82 


1.42 




1.62 


December 


2.84 


5.04 




3.94 


Amount 


16.46 


44.68 


24.61 


42.85 



This, and Noi53, p. 39 1, and 62, p.401, tables of rain^ 
are inserted more as subjects of curious comparison^ 
than from any philosophical result that can be drawn 
from such desultory observation, or ftom phenome- 
na which occur so veiy irregularly as do the rains 
of the United States. The mean terms of the same 
month at the same place, differ fi-om each other not 
mofe widely than do the mean terms of successive 
years. To determine whether there exists a regu- 
lar periodical series of wet and dry seasons, demands 
a much more extended period of observation, and of 
observations made simultaneously at numerous, and 
as far a& practicable, distant places* 



406 



CLIMATE or 



No. LXVII. — Table of the monthly excess of heat and cold, 
01' the highest and lowest extremes of the thermometer, at 
New Harmony, Indiana, N. lat. 38° 11', Img. 10° 50' 
W., and elevated above the oceanic level about 340 feet. 
Observer, Gerard Troost. 













New 




1826. 


1827. 


1828. 


Harmony 












Gazette. 


Month, 


Max. 


Min. 


Max. 


Min. 


Max. 


Min. 


Vol. Page. 


July 


93 


55 










1, 368 


August 


92.7 


41 










1, 408 


September 


83 


37 










2, 16 


October 


82 


31 










2, 48 


November 


77 


20 










2, 80 


December 


66 


-4 










2, 111 


January 






54 


-5 






2, 152 


February 






75 


16 






2, 184 


March 






75 


25 






2, 224 


April 






82 


32 






2, 256 


May 






86 


31 






2, 288 


June 






96 


41 






2, 320 


July 






93 


69 






2, 352 


August 






96 


55 






2, 384 


September 






87 


32 






2, 416 


October 






75 


20 






3, 40 


November 






72 


18 






3, 64 


December 






66 


21 






3, 104 


January 










64 


12 


3, 136 


February 










68 


12 


3, 160 


March 










82 


20 


3, 192 


April 










86 


28 


3, 224 


May 










91 


42 


3, 256 


June 










96 


55 


3, 296 



In 1827, from March 29th to October 29th, 215 
days, the thermometer ranged above 32 degrees, 
giving to New Harmony, in that year, a length of 
summer nearly similar to the mean of that of Balti- 
more ; one year is, however, too short a period on 
which to base a general conclusion. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



407 



No. LXVIII. — Table of the monthly mean temperature at 
Cincinnati, N. lat. 39° 07', long. 7° 26' W. Construct- 
ed from meteorological tables in Drake's View of Cincin- 
nati, pages 94,95. 







THEBMOMETER. 




Month. 










Highest 


Lowest. 


Range. 


Mean. 


Jan. 


59 


— 2* 


61 


29.88 


Feb. 


66 


6 


60 


34.42 


March 


73 


16 


57 


43.97 


April 


28 


84 


56 


57.58 


May 


88 


40 


48 


61.32 


June 


93 


49 


44 


71.16 


July 


94 


54 


40 


74.51 


Aug. 


90 


53 


37 


73.27 


Sept. 


88 


46 


42 


68.28 


Oct. 


80 


28 


52 


55.08 


Nov. 


66 


13 


53 


41.75 


Dec. 


56 


10 


46 


34.54 


Mean 








53.81 


Mean of 


1806 


1807 


1808 


1809 


1810 


1811 


1812 


1813 




54.10 


54.4 


56.4 


54.4 


52.77 


56.62 


52.65 


52.76 



The mean of the months, 53°.81, added to the 
mean of the years, 54°. 28, produces a compound 
mean within an indiiferent fraction of 54°, 



* "The greatest cold ever observed at this place 
[Cincinnati], was on the 8th of January, 1797, when, 
according to Governor Sargeant, the Mercury fell to 
18° below zero. In Kentucky, nearly half a degree 
south of this town. Dr. Doniphan, during the same 
month, observed it to fall 14° below zero." Drake's 
View, page 24. 



408 



CLIMATE OF 



No. LXIX. — Table of theprevailing winds at Cincinnati, 
JSr.lat. 39° 07' f long. W. '0,TW W.j as given mJ)r, 
Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 98. 



MONTHS. 


N.E. 


N. 


N.W. 


w. 


s.w. 
13 


s. 
2 


S.E. 
6 


E. 

s' 


January 


8 


1 


21 


6 


February 


8 


1 


14 


5 


13 




6 





MarcU 


11 


1 


10 


5 


16 




10 





April 


10 


1 


8 


3 


24 




7 


4 


May 


10 





10 


4 


19 




7 


5 


June 


12 


5 


7 


2 


23 




9 


6 


July 


11 


2 


n 


4 


19 




6 


1 


August 


10 


1 


12 


1 


23 




6 


1 


Septen^ber 


9 


Q 


8 


3 


23 




6 


2 


pctol^er 


6 


1 


10 


4 


24 




9 


2 


November 


6 


I 


10 


7 


13 




9 


2 


December 


^ 


Q 


15 


6 


n 




7 


2 


Amount » 


106 


14 


136 


50 


221 


14 


87 


16 


Proportions 


164 













— 


of lOOQ 


22 211 


77 


343 


22 


135 


26 



Di% E)rake's Vie\y of Cincinnati, frona which this 
table and No. 70 were taken, is a work of great merit, 
and gives a permanent value to any document de- 
pending npoh it for authority ; but in this, as in most 
other cases of observation in the United States, the 
tables of prevalent winds deserve more confidence 
than those of niean temperature. It is not too much 
to say, that tables 65 an4 69 decide the prevalent 
winds of Ohio Valley, 



THE UNITED STATES. 



409 



Table No. 70 and 71, were originally published 
in Drayton's View of South Carolina, and re-pub- 
lished in Holme's Annals, Vol. II. page 209. 

No. LXX. — Table of mean temperature at Charleston, 
South Carolina, N. lot. 32° 44'. 



Yrs. 



bo 






O a 



(^Lowest 
j^5^ 5 Highest 

^Lowest 
1752 J H'g'hest 
^'^^^^ Lowest 
.^.„ 5 Highest 
^'^^•^^ Low est 

^'^^^^ Lowest 
i7^r 5 Highest 
^'^^^1 Lowest 

^'^^^^ Lowest 
.^.5, C Highest 
''^^'^l Lowest 

1758 ^*^'S^^^^ 
^^^^ ^Lowest 

17'59 S Highest 
'•'^^^1 Lowest 



96 
52 
94 
67 
101 
60 
91 
59 
93 
54 
90 
53 
96 
49 
89 
50 
94 
46 
93 
51 



45 J 28 



25 
94 
18 
101 
18 
91 
28 
93 
22 
90 
26 
96 
27 
90 
25 
94 
25 
93 
27 



60.05 

56 

59i 

59^ 

57i 

58 

6U 

57^ 

59^ 

60 



410 



CLIMATE OF 



No. LXXI. — Table 2nd, for the mean temperature of 
Charleston^ South Carolina. 



Yrs. 



Annual 
Thermometer. I Mean. 



1791 



C Highest 
\ Lowest 



1792 



CHi 

1L( 



Highest 

owest 

.WQ<,C High est 

^^^•^ ^Lowest 

1794 1 P'^^^'^ 
Lowest 

Highest 

Lowest 

ghest 



1795 



(^ Lowest 

C Highest 

^Lowest 

Ij^ggf Highest 

^Lowest 

Highest 

Lowest 

Highest 

Lowest 

Highest 

Lowest 



1797. 



1822: 
1823 



1824 




Mean of the 10 years in table 70 — 59°. 90 
Mean of the 8 first years in table 71—58.81 
Mean of the 3 last years in do. 61.85 
Mean of the 3 preceding 60. 18 

The three latter years in table 71, were taken 
from Dr. LovelFs Register, and yield a mean 2°. 64 
lower than given in the average table, page 6o of 
the Register. The mean in the latter, appears to 
have been deduced from the annual mean at 7 A. 
M., and 2 and 9 P, M.; I deduced the mean for table 
71 by taking Dr. Lovell's mean for each year, ad- 
ding them together and dividing by 3. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



411 



No. LXXII. — Monthly mean temperature ttt Richmond^ 
Virginia, N. lat. 37° 04/, h)ig. 0° 2& TV. from W. C, 
from a mean of two years, by Mr^ J. A. Chevallie; and 
liberally procured for insertion in the *'View," by Mn 
Herman BoyS. 



Month. 


1824 


1825 


1826 


1827 


Mean 


January- 


42 


34.6 


33.2 


25 


33.7 


February 


^o5^. 


39 


41 


43.9 


39.8 


March 


43 


50 


49.6 


46 


47.1 


April 


53 


55 


57.8 


59 


54.7 


May 


64.4 


64.4 


68 


64.5 


65.4 


June 


75 


73.6 


73^ 


73.6 


73.8 


July 


79 


80 


74.8 


76.8 


77.6 


August 


7H 


76.4 


72.9 


75 


74.8 


September 


66.8 


65.7 


68.9 


67,2 


67.1 


October 


57^ 


60 


56.8 


56 


57,5 


November 


47.2 


41.8 


44 


43.8 


44.2 


December 


40.8 


33 


34.2 


44.6 


38.1 


Mean 


56.5 


56 


55.7 


56.5 


56.1 



The observations from which this table was com- 
piled were made at morning, noon, and night. 

When compared with the corrected mean for Wash- 
ington, page 385, that for Richmond ought to be 55°. 3. 
The difference of latitude between the places is 109 
minutes, an equivalent to 1°.8 of Fahrenheit; from 
whence we have 53°.5+l°.8=55°.3 mean corrected for 
Richmond, 8 tenths less than deduced by the elements 
in table 72. 



412 



CLIMATE OF 



C^ C^ tH i-( tH rH 






g^ 









CO Oi O VO Tj< 
V5 T^ CO ^ CO 



'^CNrHiOT-tC^COC^C^C^THC^c; 



i>- b- TjiJ-^ <0 C^« «0 O t^ t^ CM O <0 <0 *0 



TffaioO'^TH<roo'*i-ih,coN.-*THOoa» 

Oi»Or-<C7^»r5CM»OCNrHtOOCMaiO 
C<ir-.T-IC^,-( CNr-tCNCNCOCMt-(CO 



I C<f C\f 



GSJcOCO'-ii^OOcOO'OVOO^CTiCTii-lT-i'O 
rt rHr-t CO iHiHfHr-fr-t THr-< 



Q- 



,.,«B« ...tj. 

• •:5'E ^ . . . . c i 

s!.sii;s=-gi|jiti-l- 

00ns.-«000<U.5s:a!^<ua>il)rt 



THE UNITED STATES. 



41S 



No. LXXIV. — ihsirad of the prevailing winds at vanous 
points in the United States, belmv M lat. 35°. The 
ivhole reduced to proportions of 1000. 



Places of Observa- 
tion. 


IfE. 


If. 


IfW 


w. 


sw. 


s. 


SE. 


E. 


Baton Rouge, 

Pensacola, ••••••••• 


236 
417 
146 

416 
228 

42 


5 

36 
79 

36 

59 

293 


133 

97 
99 

97 

38 

109 


83 
47 
65 

47 

57 

141 


208 

83 

151 

83 
127 

52 


94 

25 

109 

25 
169 
299 


153 

250 
235 

250 
186 

21 


100 

58 
127 

58 

126 

53 


Cantonment Jessup, 

Tampa Bay, 

St. Augustine, ..... 
Charleston, S. C.,.. 
Smith ville, N. C.,.. 


Amount, 


1485 


508 


57S 


440 


704 


721 


1095 


522 



Tso. 73 and 74, demonstrate a curve in the general 
course of the winds, advancing from the northern to the 
southern extremity of the United States. The theory laid 
down in my Lectures on the Climate of the United States, 
was, that the winds uninfluenced by local interruptions, 
followed a parabolic curve, from the polar to the tropical 
regions of the earth, with the sweep of the curve east- 
ward. This would presuppose the prevalent wind from 
the NW. in high northern, and SE. in high southern la- 
titudes, gradually inflecting, and becoming NE. or SE. 
near the tropics. The prevalent winds along the Atlantic 
coast of the United States, sustain the theory, beyond even 
my own hopes, and evince far less compliance with local 
influence than I anticipated. All the tables of wind, in this 
chapter, demonstrate a regularity in the winds of the 
northern temperate zone of America, the northern Atlan- 
tic, and western Europe, which could scarcely be sup- 
posed probable over a surface so greatly diversified. We 
now find that western winds do not fall on western Eu- 
rope, because the Atlantic ocean stretches from that 
quarter, but because the natural and unchangeable trade 
wind of Europe is from the western side of the meridians, 
as it is, with little exception, round the earth in those 
latitudes. 

A cause must be deep and permanent, the effects of 
which are uniform from the Pacific coast of the continent 
of North America, to the centre of Europe, 

M m 2 m 



414 CLIMATE OF 

Without the least hope of deciding so intricate 
and important a question as the revolutions of the 
atmosphere, I have with considerable labour pre- 
pared most of the preceding tables, and hope to 
have, by their means, condensed a mass of facts 
drawn from experiment, which may aid in the 
solution of a problem of great interest in physical 
science ; that is, has or has not the climate of the 
United States undergone any radical change since the 
original settlement by Europeans ? Such a problem 
had its origin in a fancied change, of a similar na- 
ture, in Europe. How far the climate of Europe 
has meliorated in modern times, has occupied the 
pens of the first men of the present age, and has re- 
sulted in conclusions, directly contradictory to what 
may be without arrogance called a vulgar error. In 
the 27th volume of Annales de Chimie et de Phy- 
sique^ page 40.8, we find the following facts express- 
ly on this subject. 

" The invention of thermometers does not remount 
but little beyond the year 1590; we may even add 
that before 1700, these instruments were neither cor- 
rect nor capable of comparison. It is then impossi- 
ble to determine with precision, for any part of the 
earth, what was its temperature in very remote ages : 
but restricting ourselves to these limits, and seeking 
only, for example, if at present the winters are more 
or less rigorous than in times past, we may supply 
direct observation, by taking from ancient authors, 
passages relative to several natural phenomena; 
such as the congelation of rivers, seas, &c. The 
small number of citations of this kind which I have 
connected here, prove, I think, even giving due al- 
lowance for such exaggerations as may be found in 
authors, that in Europe in general, and France in 
particular, the av inters for some centuries, have been 
at least as severe as at present. 

" In the first century before the Christian era, at 
the mouth of the Paulus Mentis \8traits of Caffa\ 



THE UNITED STATES. 415 

the frost was so intense, that one of the generals of 
Mithridates defeated the barbarian cavalry, on pre- 
cisely the same place where, in summer, they had 
been before defeated in a naval battle. 

" In A. D. 400, the Black sea was entirely frozen, 
as was the Rhone in all its length. Such a pheno- 
menon indicated a temperature of at least 18° centi- 
grade, °A Fahrenheit, below zero. When the Gulf 
of Venice was frozen in 1709, the thermometer in 
that city fell to 20° centigrade, 4° Fahrenheit, be- 
low zero. 

" In A. D. 462, the army of Theodomer crossed 
the Danube on the ice. The Var, a small river of 
France and Italy, falling into the Mediterranean, 
between Nice and Monaco, was frozen, which effect 
demanded a temperature of 10° or 12° centrigrade, 
below zero. 

"A. D. 763, the Black sea and Dardanelles were 
frozen. 

"A. D. 822, loaded carriages traversed on the 
ice for upv/ards of a month, the Danube, the Elbe^ 
and the Seine. The Rhone, the Po, and the Adria- 
tic sea were frozen. See A. D. 400. 

" A. D. 829, on the authority of Abd Allatif, 
translated by M. Silvestre de Sacy, when the Ja- 
cobite Patriarch of Antioch, Dionysius of Telmahre, 
attended the KhalifFe Mamoun into Egypt, they 
found the Nile frozen. 

" A. D. 860, the Adriatic sea and the Rhone were 
frozen, demanding a temperature of 20° centigrade, 
4° Fahrenheit, below zero. 

"A. D. 1133, the Po was closed from Cremona 
to the sea, and the Rhone crossed on the ice. Wine 
froze in the cellars : — at least 18° centigrade, °.4 
Fahrenheit, below zero. 

"A.B. 1216, the Po and the Rhone frozen; and 
again in 1234, the same rivers were closed, and 
loaded carriages traversed the Adriatic sea on the 
ice near Venice. (20° centigrade, 4° Fahrenheit^ 
below zero ) 



4i6 CLIMATE OF 

" A. D. 1236, the Danube closed for some consi- 
derable time. 

" A. D. 1292, loaded carriages crossed the Rhine 
below Brisach, and the Categat sound completely- 
closed. 

**A. D. 1302, Rhone frozen ( — 18° cent, °,4 
Fahrenheit below zero.) 

" A. D. 1305, the Rhone, and all the other rivers 
of France were frozen. 

" A. D. 1323, the Rhone frozen. Travellers on 
foot and horseback passed on the ice from Denmark 
to Lubec and Dantzic. 

" A. D. 1358, ten feet of snow at Bologna in Italy. 

"A. D. 1364, the Rhone frozen to Aries ; loaded 
carriages passed on the ice. — 18° cent., — °.4Faht. 

'* A. D. 1408, the Danube frozen in all its course; 
one sheet of ice from Norway to Denmark. Car- 
riages crossed the Seine on the ice. 

" A. D. 1434, frost commenced at Paris, the last 
of December, 1433, and continued during three 
months, less 9 days ; recommenced towards the end 
of March and continued to the 17th of April. The 
same year it snowed in Holland 40 consecutive days, 

'* A. D. 1460, the Danube and the Rhone frozen. 

" A. D. 1493, the port of Genoa frozen. 

" A. D. 1507, the port of Marseilles frozen in all 
its extent. ( — 18° cent., at least, — °.4 Faht.) On 
the day of Epiphany, 3 feet of snow fell at the same 
city. 

" A. D. 1468, the wine had been reduced to ice 
and cut with an axe; and in 1544, a similar severity 
of cold in France. 

"A. D. 1565, the Rhone was frozen to Aries, 
(—18° cent., — °.4 Faht.) 

« A. D. 1568, from the 11th to the 21st of Decem- 
ber, the Rhone passed on the ice. ( — 18° cent, at 
least.) 

"The winter of 1570-1571, from the end of No- 
vember to the end of February, was so severe, that 



THE UNITED STATES. 417' 

all the rivers, even those of Langueddc and Pro- 
vence, were so completely frozen that they were 
passed with loaded carriages. (Mezerai.) 

"A, D. 1594, the sea at Marseilles and Venice fro- 
zen. (—20° cent., —4° Faht.) 

"A. D. 1603, loaded carriages passed the Rhone 
on the ice. (— 18° cent., — °.4 Faht.) 

« The winter of 1621-1622, the Venitian fleet ar- 
rested by the ice in the lagoons of Venice ; in 1638, a 
similar event with the French gallies at Marseilles; 
either event demanding a temperature of — 20*^ 
cent, or — 4° Fahrenheit. 

" (A. D. 1645, the Swedish army passed from Hol- 
stein into Zealand on the ice.) 

"In the winter of 1655-1656, the Seine was closed 
from the 8th to the 18th of December, It was again 
frozen, without interruption, from the 29th of De- 
cember to the 28th of January. A new frost re- 
curred a few days after, and continued until in 
March. (Bouillaud.) The ensuing winter, 1657- 
1658, an uninterrupted frost from the 24th of De- 
cember, 165f, to the 8th of February, 1658. Be- 
tween the 24th of December and the 20th of January 
the cold was moderate, but afterwards acquired an 
extreme intensity. The Seine was entirely closed. 
A slight thaw took place on the 8th of February,, 
but the frost again recurred and continued to the 
18th. It was in 1658, that Charles X, king of Swe- 
den, traversed the Little Belt with his army, artil- 
lery, caissons, baggage, &c. 

"A. D. 1662-1663. Intense frost at Paris, from 
the 5th of December to the 8th of March. 

" A.D. 1676-1677, continued and very intense frost 
from' the 2d of December to the 13th of January j 
the Seine was closed 35 consecutive days. 

"A. D. 1684, the Thames, at London, frozen 11 
inches thick, and traversed by loaded wagons. 

"A. D. 1709, (perhaps the most intense season 
which has ever occurred within the range of histo- 



418 CLIMATE OF 

ry,) the Adriatic sea, and the Mediterranean from 
Genoa by Marseilles to Cette, frozen. All the ri- 
vers and narrow seas of Europe frozen. ( — 20'^ 
cent., —4° Faht.) 

"A. D. 1716, booths erected on the Thames at 
London. 

"A. D. 1726, sledges passed from Copenhagen to 
Sweden. 

" A. D. 1740, the Thames, at London, again frozen. 

" From 1749 to 1781, (33 years,) the thermometer, 
in Provence, never fell iDelow — 9° cent. (20|°Faht). 
This period of 33 years, afforded no instance of a cold 
of from 15° to 18° below zero, as formerly ; some per- 
sons already concluded that the climate had melio- 
rated ; but in 1789, this illusion was dissipated, be- 
cause in that year, thev experienced at Marseilles, 
a cold of —17° cent. 1°.4 Faht. 

" From 1800 to 1819, the thermometer did not fall 
below —9° cent, 15°. 8 Faht., in the department of 
the Mouths of the Rhone, but in 1820, as in some of 
the remarkable seasons we have noticed in this ca- 
lalogue, they experienced a cold of — 17^° cent., 2° 
Faht. above zero. 

"Thus, whether we consider the intensity of cold, 
or we examine at what intervals of time extraordi- 
nary cold is reproduced, we see no reason to admit, 
that in a period of 1400 years, the climate of Pro- 
vence has varied worthy notice." 

The facts and conclusion in these extracts are of 
great force in deciding on the general principles of 
meteorological revolution. They ought to put us on 
our guard against considering the temperature of a 
few years as sufficient to determine a revolution in 
phenomena so greatly varied as those of aerial tem- 
perature; and against forming comparative esti- 
mates of relative climate, as is usually done so 
greatly to the disadvantage of that of the United 
States. The two subjoined tables taken from Les 
Emmies cle Chimie et de Phtjsique, will serve to ex- 
hibit the extremes of temperature in central parts 



THE UNITED STATES. 



419 



of Europe. " Whenever the thermometer departs 
ever so little from its habitual limits, the public 
pay great attention to the range of that instrument, 
and, in general, are not slow in coming to the conclu- 
sion that they have never observed it so high or so 
low. The following table, in which I have collected 
the indication of the greatest degrees of cold and 
heat experienced at Paris and other points of the 
globe, since the invention of the thermometer, may 
be of some utility."* 

No. LXXV. — Maximum of Cold. 



Date. 


Reaum. 


Cent. 


Faht. 


1665, February 6, 


o 
— 17.6 


o 
— 21.2 


— °6.16 


1709, January 13, 


— 18.5 


— 23.1 


— 9.8 


1716, 


— 15. 


-18.7 


— 1.22 


1729, 


— 12.2 


— 15.5 


+ 5.9 


1742, January 10, 


— 13.6 


— 17.0 


+ 1.4 


1747, January 14, 


— 10.9 


— 13.6 


+ 6.8 


1748, 


— 12.2 


— 15.3 


+ 4.46 


1754, January 8, 


— 11.3 


— 14.1 


+ 6.7 


1755, 


— 12.5 


— 15.6 


-- 5.92 


1767, 


— 12.2 


— 15.3 


-. 4.46 


1768, 


— 13.7 


— 17.1 


-- 1.22 


1771, 


— 10.9 


— 13.6 


-- 6.8 


1776, January 29, 


— 15.3 


— 19.1 


— 2.38 


1783, December 30, 


— 15.3 


— 19.1 


— 2.38 


1788, December 31, 


— 17.8 


— 22.3 


— 8.14 


1795, January 25, 


— 18.8 


— 23.5 


— 10.30 


1798, December 26, 


— 14.1 


— 17.6 


— .32 


1820, January 11, 


— 11.4 


— 14.3 


+ 6.26 


1823, January 14, 


— 11.7 


— 14.6 


+ 5.72 



At Paris have occurred 

In 1776, 25 days consecutive, 
1783, 60 do. 
1795, 42 do. 
1798, 32 do. 



of intense trost. 
do. 
do. 
do. 



Annales de Chimie, &c. 



420 CLIMATE OF 

No. LXXVI.— JfarimwOT of Heat. 



Date. 


Reaumur. 


Cent. 


Faht. 
+ 92.8 


1705, Aug. 6, 


4-27.0 


+ 3°3.8 


1706, Aug. 8, 


+ 28.2 


+ 35.3 


+ 95.54 


1753, July 7, 


+ 28.5 


+ 35.6 


-\-95.7 


1754, July 14, 


+ 28.0 


-^2>5.Q 


+ 95 


1775, 


+ 27.8 


+ 34.7 


+ 94.46 


1793. July 8th 








and 16th, 


+ 30.7 & 29.8 


+ 38.4&37.3 


+ 98.54 


1800, Aug, 18, 


+ 28.4 


+ 35.5 


+ 95.9 


1802, Aug. 8, 


+ 29.1 


+ 36.4 


+ 97.52 


1803, 


+ 29.4 


+ 36.7 


+ 98.24 


1808, July 15, 


--29.0 


+ 36.2 


+ 97.16 


1818, July 24, 


--27.6 


+ 34.5 


+ 94.1 



Havmg closed the collection of comparative ta- 
bles on temperature and prevailing winds, I pro- 
ceed to a summary review. It has been demon- 
strated, as far as the data in my analysis are ad- 
mitted as authority, that agreeable to the laws of 
temperature stated in page 350, the winter cold 
over the United States, as every where else on 
earth, is in direct intensity with height, latitude, and 
exposure; and that the interior states being more 
exposed to the influence of a central, elevated, and 
frozen table land, have winters much more severe 
than experienced on similar latitudes on the Atlan- 
tic slope; and farther, that the interior summers are 
equally in excess. 

These conclusions are drawn from the range of 
the thermometer, and from the freezing of rivers. So 
far, however, mere facts are stated, but it has been 
my wish to adduce the causes, and in pursuance of 
that design I have traced the prevailing winds of 
the northern temperate zone of the earth. That the 



THE UNITED STATES. 421 

air over this zone, though partially influenced by- 
local features, does not derive its general course 
from the rela.tions of land and water, has been 
shewn conclusively. 

Ever since North America was peopled by Eng- 
lish and French colonies, an opinion has prevailed 
that as the timber was removed the temperature 
was raised, or, in other words, the winter seasons 
had gradually become milder. Employed 10 or 12 
years in exploring the prairies of Louisiana, 1 had 
ample means to test the seasons of a country natu- 
rally devoid of forest trees, and in the frequent and 
sometimes not slight snows of Opelousas, N. lat. 
30^°, I, as early as 1805, became convinced that re- 
moving timber must produce the very reverse of 
melioration, and then suspected, what is noAv proven, 
that in very open countries the range of the ther- 
mometer must be augmented. These ideas were 
thrown out in my Louisiana, and still farther in my 
Emigrant's Guide, and Geographical Dictionary, 
and encountered some obloquy. It was obloquy 
which I felt lightly, trusting to time, and not in vain. 

One of the best statistical writers in Europe, the 
Abbe Rosier, in his Cours d* Agriculture, derives 
from the removal of forests the cause why the vines 
in some part of France have perished, where two 
centuries past they were cultivated in open fields. 
It was evident to this philosophic expounder of 
nature, that removing shelter must have the same 
eiFect which would happen by opening a window ex- 
posed to the north-west, that is, increase of cold. 

Independent, however, of the thermometer or 
freezing of rivers, vegetables afford most precious at- 
mospheric indicia. One of these criteria I had full 
opportunity to examine. I surveyed southern Lou- 
isiana, from the Sabine eastward, and found the 
live oak, quercus sempervirens, flourishing along 
the rivers in the Delta and vicinity; but when the 
great body of woods, which bounds the Delta, above 
Nil 



422 CLIMATE OF 

the marshes and prairies, is passed, and the north- 
west winds from Texas have full sweep along the 
Calcasiu and Sabine, the live oak ceases. In the 
Delta this vegetable is found as high as N, lat. 30° 
22', rising to the majesty of a forest tree; yet in 
its utmost range in the basin of Mississippi, this and 
the Chaemerops, or dwarf palm, cease far south of 
their limit on the Atlantic coast; the large palm 
(cabbage tree) is not found in Louisiana. The live oak 
rises to considerable height and column as high as 
the mouth of Cape Fear river, N. lat. 34°, full 3^° 
beyond its greatest northern residence in the central 
basin. 

In Louisiana the orange tree cannot be cultivated 
to much advantage above N. lat. 30°, and ceases 
altogether about a degree farther north. The sugar 
cane, with a slightly higher locality, does not flour- 
ish beneficially much above the orange. Both these 
vegetables are profitably cultivated along the At- 
lantic coast as high as N. lat. 33° 30'. *' The sweet 
or China orange begins to be cultivated in the open 
air in South Carolina, near the town of Beaufort, 
33° 25', where large groves are to be met with, not 
only for ornament but fruit. On the islands of 
Georgia they are cultivated extensively, and with 
great profit. The sugar cane, both Creole and 
Otaheite, grows into a crop, so as to be profitable, 
from Sapelo island 31° 30', near the mouth of the 
Alatamahah, on to Florida. The cane has ripened 
very well at Savannah, N. lat. 32° 05', and has been 
with partial success attempted so far north as Beau- 
fort district. South Carolina, lat. 33° 30'."* 

We thus find tender vegetables, either growing 
indigenous, or cultivated as objects of emolument, 
on latitudes along the Atlantic coast, where no art 
could produce a similar effect directly west on the 
Mississippi. Natches stands on a hill, or series of 

* N. A. Ware, Esq. to the author of this View. 



THE tJNITED STATES. 423 

hills, about 100 feet above the ordinary level of the 
Mississippi at N. lat. 30° 33/ almost directly west 
from Sapelo island, and at Natches or even on the low- 
banks of the Mississippi, opposite that city, neither 
the orange or cane could be cultivated. The ther- 
mometer whilst I myself resided in the vicinity fell 
to 12° above zero, near that city, in December 1799, 
No winter passes at Natches without severe frost, 
and snows are there annual and not seldom deep, 
and resting on the ground from 5 to 10 or 12 days, 

I once, January 1812, witnessed a snow at Opelousas 

II inches deep, which did not entirely disappear in 
less than 7 or 8 days. 

The freezing of rivers is also a most conclusive 
comparative test of climate. The Ohio and all its 
branches, as well as other rivers more westward, 
are more deeply, frequently, and longer frozen than 
those on the Atlantic slope by a difference of 3 or 
4 degrees of latitude. 

Having established the very important fact in 
meteorology, that the wind of the United States 
forms only a part of a general, if not universal, cur- 
rent of air which sweeps round the world over the 
northern temperate zone, deriving its course from 
the motion of the earth itself, combined with the 
effects of heat and cold on the atmosphere. Having 
demonstrated that aerial temperature in the United 
States depends, as elsewhere, for its intensity upon 
relative latitude, elevation, and exposure, the con- 
clusion follows that the supposed mildness of the 
Ohio valley, so much insisted upon by Volney and 
others, has really no existence, but that on the very 
contrary, the cold of winter is several degrees more 
severe in the interior than on the Atlantic border of 
the United States, upon any given latitude. 

If we turn to the tables, and analyse their con- 
tents, we discover that the wind from the Pacific 
ocean over North America, the Atlantic ocean, and 
western Europe, is by great excess from the west- 



424 CLtMATE OF 

ern side of the meridians. So constantly do the 
prevailing currents of air set from the west over the 
continent of North America, that the orchards and 
forests generally, particularly along the Atlantic 
slope, invariably incline to the eastward or south- 
eastward. This interesting phenomenon may be 
seen by any person travelling along the roads, and 
it is in an especial manner discernible if the travel- 
ler is passing in an east or west direction. 

The prevalence of such universal current carries 
the moisture of the Atlantic on the western coasts 
of Africa and Europe, and indeed in a greater or 
less extent produces a mildness or uniformity of an- 
nual temperature on western, and severity, or ex- 
tremes of temperature, on eastern coasts. This ex- 
position of climate was laid before my classes in 
Philadelphia, in January and February 1821, and 
formed part of a Course of Lectures on the particu- 
lar climate of the United States. Recently I have 
had the pleasure to peruse the American Quarterly 
Review, No. VI., and found at pages 529 — 31, un- 
der Art. North-west Passage, the following: 

" It has been universally admitted that, the lati- 
tude being the same, western coasts are more tem- 
perate; and the neighbouring continent [America] 
gives us positive evidence of this. " The vegetation,'* 
says Chiamisso, "in the interior of Kotzebue's 
sound [under the arctic circle N. lat. 66° 30' — 66° 
42'] is constantly higher (more advanced) than in 
the interior of St. Lawrence's bay. The willows 
are higher, the grasses richer, all vegetation more 
juicy and stronger." Kotzebue, who had the com- 
mand in this voyage, says, " Ice and snow maintain- 
ed their rule here (in Asia) since last year, and in 
this state we find the whole coast; while in Ameri- 
ca, even the summits of the highest mountains are 
free from snow; there the navigator sees the coast 
covered with a green carpet, while here (Asia) 
black massy rocks frown upon us with snow and 
icicles. " 



THE UNITED STATES. 425 

** Isothermal lines drawn from this part of Ameri- 
ca, would incline much to south, making very 
oblique ones. While vegetation is green and 
flowery in Kotzebue's sound, in 66° 42' 30'', desola- 
tion pervades the coast of Labrador, in 55°, and 
perpetual frost rules at 60° on the coast of Green- 
land. A determined push to double the Icy Cape, 
could scarcely fail to be successful, unless the sum- 
mer should be shorter and colder than usual.'* 

*' For the discovery of the existence of a passage 
over this part of the Polar sea, (north from North 
America,) we feel assured the voyage has always 
been commenced where it ought to have termina- 
ted. The voyage should be made ivith, and not 
against the currents. There is much difference 
between stemming a current surcharged with ice, 
and sailing or floating with it. Parry was six weeks 
making Melville Island, from the entrance of Sir 
James Lancaster's sound, 600 miles, which, on his 
return to the eastward, was run in six days. Cap- 
tain Franklin sailed from Copper Mine river in two 
canoes to Point Turnagain, having coasted the shore 
for 555 geographical miles [nearly east and west, 
between lat. 67** and 68°, equal to about 200 Eng- 
lish miles,] with little or no diffictilty. This dis- 
tance in a direct line, would have taken him to the 
coast opposite Repulse bay. We are yet without 
accurate observations on the force of the currents, 
into and out of the Polar sea. Kotzebue's calcula- 
tions certainly seem to us to be extravagant. He 
supposed the current to pass northwardly through 
Bhering's strait, at the rate of two miles per hour. 
This is more than double the rapidity mentioned by 
Cook. That the current flows perpetually to the 
north through this strait, can no longer be doubted. 
The testimony of the two navigators mentioned 
above, as well as that of Clerke and Glolotoff', es- 
tablishes the fact beyond contradiction. It has been 
stated, that the commander of this Russian expedi- 
If n 2 



426 CLIMAITE 01^ 

tion having passed round Icy Cape, was somewhat 
alarmed, lest he should not be able to overcome the 
current on his return. " 

That the attempt to circumnavigate North 
America from the east, was proceeding in direct 
opposition, not alone to the ocean currents, but what 
was of greatly more consequence, against prevalent 
winds, and that if ever a navigable opening was 
found round the northern coast of North America, 
or to render such a passage useful when found, it 
must be navigated from the west, were the pos-^ 
tulata, on which my lectures on climate were foun- 
ded. If I had had my own choice, I could have de- 
manded no more decisive evidence from actual ex- 
periment, to sustain my theory, than has been afford- 
ed by the voyages of Kotzebue, Parry and Franklin, 
and by recent meteorological observations made in 
the United States and Europe. 

In my lecture room I had maps and charts, with 
isothermal lines drawn upon them, in order to trace 
the cause and demonstrate the principles in nature 
from which followed as a necessary effect, the re- 
gular eastern currents of air over the temperate 
zones, and polar circles of the earth; and of course,- 
why western must have a more uniform aerial tem- 
perature and more moist atmosphere on a given 
latitude than eastern coasts. I then showed satis- 
factorily why tender fruits, and the cereal gramina, 
were cultivated on western Europe so much more 
northward than on the eastern coasts of America 
and Asia. 

With but slight modification from dlflcrence of lo- 
cal features, every observation made in this chap- 
ter respecting the northern, will apply to the 
southern temperate zone, and particularly to voy- 
ages of discovery attempted towards the southern 
pole. To give any rational probability of success, 
the vessels ought to proceed in both instances cast- 
ward from the meridians. To explore the southern 



THE U2«ITF.I> STATES, 427 

polar circle, the course ought to be south-eastward 
from America, Africa, and New Holland. It may 
appear to some, presumptuous for any individual 
inexperienced as a navigator, to speak thus positive 
from his desk; but would not candour acknowledge 
that the inductions are fair from the adduced facts ? 
I have been the more particular in the elucida- 
tion of climate, and on the exposition of the com- 
bined effects of temperature and prevailing winds, 
as I have found in books of no ordinary character 
the theory stated, that the local temperature of 
given places not only could, but had underwent ra- 
dical change. The natural bent of the human mind 
generally inclines to melioration, and supposes that 
clearing the surface of the earth of trees softens the 
winters of both Europe and America. When, how- 
ever, we quit the uncertainty of hypothesis and pro- 
ceed to reason from fact, what are cur conclusions ? 
At a single glance on a map, we find that even on the 
northern temperate zone, and northern'polar circle 
where land is most engrouped, so much of the surface 
of the earth admits of no possible modification by 
man, that all his labours comparatively disappear 
in a general view. Oceans, extensive seas, northern 
frozen and uninhabitable regions, extensive naked 
and unchangeable plains and mountains, forming so 
very great proportion of the entire surface, renders 
all the labour of man an inconsiderable datum in 
the list of natural causes, and leaves the mind, when 
investigating meteorology, to regard past and pre- 
sent ages as an impassable present. When we are 
taught that the planet is moving round its primary, 
in a giA^en and unvarying orbit; when we advance 
nearer, and are shown, that this planet is enveloped 
by an atmosphere extremely susceptible to the in- 
fluence of heat, but that this atmosphere is a pon- 
derous body carried round with the more solid parts- 
of the planet, and again, when we examine the phe- 
nomena of aerial motion, we are led by every prin- 



428 CLIMATE Ot 

ciple of reasoning to regard the revolutions of the 
atmosphere as permanent in their recurrence as 
are the causes from which those changes emanate. 

William Dunbar of Natchez, formerly of Scot- 
land, well known when living as amongst the most 
diligent observers, and most scientific men of his 
adopted country, resided between thirty and forty 
years near Natchez, at about N. lat. 31° 28'. The 
education and indefatigable attention of this philoso- 
pher to the phenomena of nature, and the abundant 
means placed at his disposal by an ample fortune, 
put him, as far as the southern climate of the Mis- 
sissippi basin is concerned, at the very head of all 
observers. 

After recounting the phenomena of the great sleet 
and snow storm of that country, which occurred in 
the end of January and first of February 1800, and 
some other meteorological changes of that year, 
Mr. Dunbar states expressly that on the 12th of 
December, 1800, the thermometer at his house fell 
to 12° above zero, and proceeds thus; 

" It is with us a general remark that of late years 
the summers have become hotter, and the winters 
colder, than formerly. Orange trees, and other 
tender exotics, have suffered more in the neighbour- 
hood of New Orleans within these four or five years, 
than before that period; the sugar cane also has 
been so much injured by the severity of the first of 
the two last winters, as greatly to discourage the 
planters, whose crops in many instances have fallen 
to one-third, or less, of their expectations. In 
former years I have observed the mercury of the 
thermometer not to fall lower than 26° or 27°; but 
for a few years past it has generally, once or twice 
in the winter, fallen as low as from 17° to 20°, and 
on the 12th December, 1800, as above noticed, it 
was found sunk to 12°, which has hitherto had no 
parallel in this climate; indicating a degree of cold, 
which in any country would be considered consider- 



THE UNITED STATES. 429 

able, and probably may never again be produced by 
natural means in lat. 31° 30'."* 

" As this apparent alteration of climate^ has been 
remarked only for a few yearSj and cannot be traced 
up to any visible, natural, or artificial change of suf- 
ficient magnitude, it would be in vain to search for 
its physical cause. Dn Williamson and others have 
endeavouied to show that the clearing, draining, 
and cultivation extended over the face of a conti- 
nent, must produce the double effect of the relaxa- 
tion of the rigors of winter, and an abatement of the 
heats of summer. The former is probably more 
evident than the latter; but admitting the demon- 
stration to be conclusive, I would enquire whether a 
partial clearing, extending 30 or 40 miles square, 
[or to 300,000, ""or 3,000,000] may not be expected to 
produce a contrary effect, by admitting with full 
liberty the sunbeams on the uncovered surface of 
the earth in summer, and promoting during winter 
a free circulation of cold northern air."-]- 

Mr. Mackenzie, after remarking on the sterile 

* In December, 1800, I was myself residing about 8 
miles from Natchez, and about 13 miles from Mr. Dunbar*s 
house. I can attest the great severity of the seasoii? 
but as I resided on the southern part of the Mississippi 
basin until 1815, and was upwards of 10 years of the 
time almost constantly exposed to the open air, I am 
ftilly persuaded that December 1800 was by no means 
the utmost severity of coJd I witnessed in that region. 
In February, 1807, the creeks between NatcKez and 
Red river were frozen, and in many instances to more 
than an inch in thickness. In January, 1812, snow fell 
at Opelousas, N. lat. 30° 30', to a depth of 11 inches; 
and in the latter days of December, 1814, the ponds 
and lagoons around New Orleans were frozen so as to 
admit half grown boys to skate or play on the ice. 

f Transactions of the American Philosophical Society, 
vol. vi. p. 40, 



430 CLIMATE OF 

Boreal regions of Korth America, continues to ob- 
serve, "The climate must necessarily be severe in 
such a country as we have described, and which 
displays so large a surface of fresh water. Its se- 
verity is extreme on the coast of Hudson's bay, and 
proceeds from its immediate exposure to the north- 
west winds that blow off the Frozen ocean. These 
winds cross directly from the bay over Cana- 
da, and the British dominions on the Atlantic, as 
well as over the eastern states of North America, 
to that ocean; where they give to that country a 
length of winter astonishing to the inhabitants of the 
same latitudes in Europe. 

"These winds even continue to retain a great de- 
gree of force and cold in their passage over the At- 
lantic, particularly at the time the sun is in its south- 
ern declination. The same winds which come from 
the Frozen ocean, over barren grounds and across 
frozen lakes and snowy plains, bounded by rocky 
mountains, lose their frigid influence as they travel 
in a southern direction till they get to the Atlantic 
ocean, where they close their progress. 

" Is not this a sufficient cause for the diff^erence 
between the climate in America and that of the 
same latitude in Europe .^" 

"It has been frequently advanced that the clearing 
away the wood has had an astonishing influence in 
meliorating the climate in the former; but I am not 
disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent 
which it proposes to establish, when I consider the 
very trifling proportion of the country cleared, com- 
pared with the whole. The employment of the axe 
may have had some inconsiderable effect; but I 
look to other causes. I myself observed in a coun- 
try which was in an absolute state of nature, that 
the climate is imfiroving; and this circumstance was 
confirmed to me by the native inhabitants of it. 
Such a change, therefore, must proceed from some 
predominating operation in the system of the globe. 



THE UNITED STATES. 431 

%vhich is beyond my conjecture, and indeed above 
my comprehension, and may, probably, in the 
course of time, give to America the climate of Eu- 
rope. 

" The climate on the w^est coast of America, as- 
similates much more to that of Europe in the same 
latitudes. I think very little difference will be found, 
except such as proceeds from the vicinity of high 
mountains covered w^ith snow. This is an additional 
proof that the difference in the temperature of the 
air proceeds from the cause already mentioned."* 

M. de Humboldt alludes to this passage in Mac- 
kenzie's travels, in his political essay on New Spain, 
in these words: " It is even believed by the Indians, 
in the vicinity of the north-west coast, that the win- 
ters are becoming milder yearly. This mildness of 
climate appears to be produced by the north-west 
winds, which pass over a considerable extent of sea. 
Mr. Mackenzie, as well as myself, believes that the 
change of climate observable throughout all North 
America, cannot be attributed to petty local causes; 
to the destruction of forests for example. |" 

Here we have in the examples of two of the most 
respectable and extensive travellers who, from Eu- 
rope, have visited and traversed America, instances 
of that greatest defect in human reasoning; that is, 
assuming a postulate and then proceeding as if it 
was an established theory. Both have, with much 
good sense, rejected one popular error, that clearing 
a few thousand square miles from wood could per- 
manently, in any country, affect its mean tempera- 
ture, and yet both supposed a real change in opera- 
tion. The credulity of M. Humboldt is the more 
strange, as the following observations occur in his 
Personal Narrative. After an elaborate discussion 



* Mackenzie's Voyages. New York edition, p. 286 — 292. 
t Political Essay, vol. ii. p. 258. 



432 CLIMATE OF 

on the mean temperature of land and water, he 
continues: *' These investigations are highly inter- 
esting to the physical history of our planet. Does 
the quantity of free caloric remain the same through 
thousands of years? Have the mean temperatures 
corresponded to different parallels, augmented or 
diminished since the last revolution which has alter- 
ed the face of our globe? We cannot answer these 
questions in the present state of our knowledge. 
We are ignorant of every thing that relates to a 
general change of the climates, as we know not 
whether the barometric pressure of the atmosphere, 
the quantity of oxygen, the intensity of the magnetic 
powers, and a great number of other phenomena, 
have undergone any change since the time of Noah, 
of Xisuthris, or Menou. It is only by the compari- 
son of a great number of observations, made in dif- 
ferent parallels of latitude, and at different degrees 
of longitude, that we shall be able to solve the im- 
portant problem of the increase or diminution of the 
heat of the earth."* 

It is evident from the strain of this quotation, and 
from the tenor of the general scope of his reasoning 
on the subject, that M. de Humboldt considered a 
permanent revolution in the mean temperature of 
any given place as very problematical; and that, 
if the occurrence of such revolution was admitted, 
the operations by which it was performed must 
have been extremely slow, and the effects on vege- 
tation and the congelation of water only perceptible 
in the long course of many ages;— -and farther, that 
a change in barometric pressure, or in other words, 
on the quantum or composition of the atmosphere, 
is an indispensable requisite in such a revolution. 

In fine, it may be fairly inferred, though not so 
directly expressed, that the opinion of this great 
philosophical traveller was, that a radical meteoro- 

* Personal Narrative, page 283. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 433 

logical revolution could be possible, only from a 
change in the present order of things on this planet, 
and that as long as the earth revolves in her orbit, 
with her present distance from the centre of motion, 
with her axis inclined as it is to the ecliptic, and 
whilst the two great elements on her surface, air 
and water, retain their constituent organization and 
relative quantity, so long will the mean tempera- 
ture of any given part of the earth maintain a near 
equality in a cycle of a few years. 

These conclusions are rationally drawn from the 
tenor of all history. View human beings in their 
relations with domesticated animals and cultivated 
vegetables, and we find in the same countries, that 
from the earliest ages, similar modes of life were 
pursued. The bread-producing, the viniferous, and 
oleaginous plants; the horse, camel, sheep, elephant, 
dec. remain restricted to the same geographical 
limits, over which the vegetables grew and the ani- 
mals roamed since human observations were put on 
record. 

It is no hazard to assert, after the proofs adduced, 
that the interior of the United States has a natural 
climate in perfect accordance with its relative posi- 
tion and height. That the climates on the opposite 
sides of the western continent exhibit the same spe- 
cific diiferences found to exist on like extremes of 
Europe and Asia. On any given place in the tem- 
perate zones of our planet, great discrepancies of 
mean temperature will occur in successive short 
periods of time, but in a cycle of 20 or 30, or at most 
^0 years, all the possible extremes will be included^^ 



434 



CHAPTER XL 

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE UNITED STATES. 

As a physical section of the earth, the relative po- 
sition, outlines and geographical extent of the Uni- 
ted States, have been given in Chap. II, pages 56 and 
57 ; the great natural features have been traced in 
detail, in the succeeding parts of this view. In the 
present chapter it is my intention to trace the poli- 
tical subdivisions, and the existing general and rel- 
ative population. I may here apprize the reader, 
that there are many subjects of importance which 
neither the brevity or scope of the view will admit. 
My purpose in writing the view was, geographical 
delineation, and not political disquisition ; therefore, 
whenever the latter is introduced, it is incidental. 

The original of the ample tables on population, 
were published in my Geographical Dictionary. 
The numbers in table 79 are it is true, speculative 
in some measure, and in their ultimate aggregate, 
present a mass well calculated to excite astonish- 
ment ; but it ought to be observed, that the Anglo- 
American colonies are the only instances ever af- 
forded on earth, where the human species had a 
fair and ample chance of rapid and steady accumu- 
lation. The augmentation thus far, has excited sur- 
prise, and in Europe incredulity, more from the 
novelty, than from any intrinsic anomaly in physi- 
ology. Where man labours for himself, and where 
the fruits of his labour are secured to him, and where 
the nation and the government are the same identi- 
cal body, there is no assignable limit to population. 
There has perhaps never yet been a well governed 
and surplus number of people in existence, and it 
may be doubted whether such a phenomenon is pos- 
sible. 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



435 



No. LXXVII. — Population of the United States by the cen- 
sus of 1810 and 1820. 





Extent 


Population 


Population 


State or Territory. 


Sq. Miles. 


1810. 


1820 


Alabama 


51,770 




143,000 


Arkansas 


121,340 




14,273 


Connecticut 


5,050 


261,941 


275,248 


Columbia District 


100 


24,023 


33,039 


Delaware 


2,100 


72,674 


72,749 


Florida 


54,000 




10,000 


Georgia 


61,000 


252,433 


340,989 


Illinois 


58,900 


12,282 


55,211 


Indiana 


34,000 


24,520 


147,178 


Kentucky 


37,680 


406,511 


564,317 


Louisiana 


48,220 


76,556 


153,407 


Maine 


32,200 


228,705 


297,839 


Maryland 


10,000 


380,546 


407,350 


Massachusetts 


7,330 


472,040 


521,725 


Michig-an 


174,000 


4,762 


10,000 


Mississippi 


45,760 


40,352 


75,448 


Missouri 


66,000 


20,845 


66,586 


New Hampshire 


8,710 


214,460 


244,155 


New Jersey 


7,800 


245,662 


277,575 


New York 


46,500 


959,049 


1,372,812 


North Carolina 


50,000 


555,500 


638,829 


Ohio 


39,000 


230,760 


581,434 


Pennsylvania 


47,000 


810,091 


1,049,458 


Rhode Island 


1,100 


76,931 


83,059 


South Carolina 


33,470 


415,115 


502,758 


Tennessee 


40,000 


261,727 


422,813 


Vermont 


9,400 


217,895 


235,764 


Virginia 


70,000 


974,622 


1,065,304 


Western Territory 


1,254,700 








2,257,300 


7,239,903 


9,663,313 



436 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

The classified and progressive population of the Uni- 
ted States, are exhibited in 

No. hXXYlll.—Populatio7i in 1810. 
free white males 2,988,141 

do. do. females 2,873,952 



Total whites, 
All other persons except Indians, not 

taxed, 
Slaves, 


5,862,093 

186,446 
1,191,364 


Total population 1810, 

Populution in 1820< 

I'ree white males, 
do. do. females, 
AH other persons except Indians, not 
taxed, 


7,239,903 

3,992,166 
3,863,916 

4,631 


Total whites, 
Free persons of colour, males, 
do. do. do. females, 
Slaves, males, 
do. females, 


7,860,713 
112,703 
120,695 
784,671 
746,765 



9,625,547 
Of these, 

Foreigners not naturalized, 5ofi55 

Engaged in Agriculture, 2,065,547 

do. in Manufactures, 349,247 

do. in Commerce, 72,397 

Population in 1790, 3,929,328 

1800, 5,306,035 

1810, 7,239,903 

1820, 9,663,313 

Calculated for 1828, 13,172,912 

That part of the United States embraced by the 
census of 1820, comprised an area of 600,000 square 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 437 

miles, within a trifling fraction, nor has the subse- 
quent extension of population in the last 8 years, 
materially enlarged the actually inhabited territory. 
If therefore we assume 600,000 square miles, as the 
really populated part of the United States, and in 
round numbers suppose the aggregate inhabitants 
to amount at this moment, September 1828, to 13 
millions, the distributive population would be only 
21 and 66 hundredths to the square mile. This es- 
timate is made however, as well as the subjoined 
table, upon the data afforded by the Census of 
1820, which gave, it is probable, an aggregate far 
below reality. The real number of inhabitants in 
the United States, was I am well convinced, above 
10 millions in 1820, and at this time exceeds consid- 
erably 13 millions. In using, therefore, the latter 
number, we are safe, and would risk no great error 
by giving 22 to the square mile, as the existing dis- 
tributive population. With these preliminary re- 
marks, the following table is extracted from my 
Geographical Dictionary. 

No. LXXIX. — Estimated progressive population of the 
United States, from the first Census in 1790 to 1940, 
or through a period of 5 generations of 30 years each. 

White. Coloured, 





Aggregate. 


1790 


3,929,328 


91 


4,057,031 


92 


4,188,884 


93 


4,325,022 


94 


4,465,595 


95 


4,610,826 


96 


4,750,677 


97 


4,905,073 


98 


5,064,487 


99 


5,229,082 


1800 


5,399,026 


1 


5,564,293 


2 


5,745,132 



oo 2 



438 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Aggregate. White, Coloured. 

1803 5,931,848 

4 6,114,633 

5 6,313,358 

6 6,518,542 

7 6,730,394 

8 6,949,230 

9 7,175,080 

1810 7,408,270 5,880,000 1,528,270 

11 7,649,038 6,071,100 1,577,938 

12 7,897,631 6,268,510 1,629,121 

13 8,154,303 6,472,236 1,682,067 

14 8,419,317 6,682,683 1,736,694 

15 8,693,943 6,900,000 1,792,943 

16 8,975,462 7,124,500 1,850,962 

17 9,267,164 7,355,770 1,911,394 

18 9,567,345 7,594,832 1,972,513 

19 9,878,283 7,841,664 2,036,619 
1820 10,199,327 8,096.518 2,102,809 

21 10,530,805 8,359,654 2,170,151 

22 10,873,155 8,632,342 2,240,813 

23 11,226,532 8,912,894 2,313,638 

24 11,591,394 9,202,562 2,388,832 

25 11,968,114 9,501,645 2,466,469 

26 12,356,677 9,810,448 2,546,229 

27 12,758,269 10,129,287 2,628,982 

28 13,172,912 10,458,487 2,714,425 

29 13,602,031 10,798,387 2,803,294 
1830 14.043,064 11,149,333 2,895,731 

31 14,499,463 11,511,686 2,987,777 

32 14,970,695 11,884,815 3,085,880 

33 15,457,292 12,271,071 3,186,221 

34 15,959,602 12,669,878 3,289,724 

35 16,478,289 13,082,516 3,395,773 

36 17,013,883 13,507,697 3,506,186 

37 17,566,782 13,846,697 3,719,085 

38 18,137,702 14,296,714 3,840,988 

39 18,727,177 14,761,357 3,965,820 
1840 19,335,810 15,241,101 4,114,709 

41 19,915,984 15,698,334 4,217,650 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 





Aggregate. 


White. 


Coloured, 


1842 


20,513,455 


16,169,283 


4,344,170 


43 


21,128,856 


16,654,359 


4,474,467 


44 


21,862,721 


17,153,988 


4,708,733 


45 


22,518,602 


i7,ms,m5 


4,849,997 


46 


23,250,000 


18,198,663 


5,051,337 


47 


23,947,500 


18,744,621 


5,202:879 


48 


24,665,925 


19,306,959 


5,358,966 


49 


25,405,902 


19,885,966 


5,5l<d,9S6 


1850 


26,168,079 


30,412,000 


5,756,079 


i51 


26,953,121 


21,024,918 


5,928,203 


52 


27,761,714 


21,655,665 


6,106,049 


53 


28,594,565 


22,205,333 


6,389,232 


54 


29,452,402 


22,871,492 


6,581,910 


55 


30,335,974 


23,557,624 


6,778,340 


56 


31,246,053 


24,263,362 


6,981,684 


57 


32,183,435 


24,991^261 


7,191,132 


58 


33,148,938 


25,740,997 


7,407,961 


59 . 


34,143,406 


26,512,224 


7,631,182 


1860 


35,167,708 


27,307,590 


7,860,118 


61 


36,222,739 


28,126,815 


8,095,924 


62 


37,349,420 


28,970,619 


8,338,801 


63 


38,428,702 


29,839,737 


8,588,965 


64 


39,581,563 


30,734,928 


8,846,635 


65 


40,769,010 


31,656,975 


9,102,036 


66 


41,992,080 


32,606,682 


9,385,408 


67 


43,251,842 


33,584,880 


9.666,962 


68 


44,649,397 


34,592,524 


10,056,863 


69 


45,988,878 


35,630,399 


10,358,479 


1870 


47,368,544 


36,699,308 


10.669,236 


71 


48,789,600 


37,800,287 


11,189,313 


72 


50,253,288 


38,934,293 


11,318,995 


7o 


51,762,886 


40,192,219 


11,868,667 


74 


53,315,772 


41,305,285 


12,010,487 


75 


54,915,245 


42,545,441 


12,369,804 


76 


56,562,702 


43,821,793 


12,740,909 


77 


58,259,583 


45tl36,444 
45;490,536 


13,123,139 


78 


60,007,370 


13,516,834 


79 


61,807,591 


47,895,521 


14,912,070 


1880 


63,661,808 


49,332,107 


14,329,701 



440 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Aggregate. White. Coloured, 

1831 65,571,662 50,812,070 14,759,592 

82 67,538,811 52,436,430 15,102,381 

83 69,564,975 54,009,522 15,555,453 

84 71.651,924 55,629,807 16,022,117 

85 73,801,481 57,298,701 16,502,780 

86 76,015,525 59,037,662 16,977,863 

87 78,295,990 60,808,790 17,487,200 

88 80,644,869 62,633,051 18,018,818 

89 83,064,215 64,512,041 18,552,174 
1890 85,656,141 66,447,401 19,208,740 

91 88,225,825 68,440,823 19,785,000 

92 90,872,959 70,494,047 20,378,912 

93 93,598,776 72,608,867 20,989,969 

94 96,406,739 74,787,131 21,619,608 

95 99,298,941 77,030,744 22,268,197 

96 102,277,909 79,341,665 22,936,244 

97 105,346,246 81,711,913 23,634,333 

98 108,505,633 84,163,270 24,343,363 

99 111,761,832 86,688,166 25,073,666 
1900 115,114,687 89,288,809 25,825,878 

1 118,568,127 91,987,473 26,580,654 

2 122,125,160 94,747,095 27,278,065 

3 125,788,914 97,589,505 28,199,309 

4 129,562,581 100,517,190 29,045,391 

5 133,449,458 103,532,703 29,916,755 

6 137,452,941 106,638,684 30,814,257 

7 141,756,529 109,837,852 31,918,677 

8 145,823,824 113,132,986 32,976,235 

9 150,198,538 116,526,973 33,955,521 
1910 154,704,494 120,022,780 35,074,186 

11 159,345,628 123,623,361 36,126,409 

12 164,125,996 127,332,060 37,210,201 

13 169,049,776 131,151,920 38,326,507 

14 174,121,269 135,086,477 39,476,302 

15 179,344,907 139,139,069 40,660,591 

16 184,725,254 143,313,259 41,880,406 

17 190,267,011 147,613,655 43,136,818 

18 195,975,021 151,042,043 44,439,922 

19 201,854,271 156,573,303 45,763,849 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



44 1 





Aggregate. 


White. 


Coloured. 


1920 


207,210,000 


160,240,502 


47,136,763 


21 


214,147,193 


165,047,717 


48,550,864 


22 


220,571,608 


169,999,148 


50,007,388 


23 


227,188,756 


175,099,121 


51,507,607 


24 


234.004,418 


180,352,094 


53,052,835 


25 


241,024,530 


185,762,654 


54,644,419 


26 


255,702,444 


191,335,532 


56,283,751 


27 


263,374,032 


197,075,597 


57,972,262 


28 


273,275,253 


202,987,962 


59,711,428 


29 


279,413,510 


209,077,000 


61,502,770 


1930 


287,795,915 


215,350,000 


63,347,851 


31 


296,419,000 


221,311,000 


65,238,285 


32 


305,312,000 


228,465,000 


67,195,431 


33 


314,371,000 


235,319,000 


69,211,293 


34 


323,905,000 


244,379,000 


71,287,629 


35 


333,623,000 


246,650,000 


73,425,257 


36 


343,631,000 


257,140,000 


75,528,013 


37 


353,940,000 


264,854,000 


77,793,853 


38 


364,558,000 


272,800,000 


80,127,607 


39 


375,494,740 


280,984,000 


82,531,435 


1940 


386,769,572 


289,412,000 


85,000,000 



Relative increase of the white and coloured dasseSi 



Date. 


1790 


1800 


1810 


1820 


Total, 
Freej 
Slaves, 
Propor*"^ 
tion of t 
Slaves f 
to Free, J 


3929328 

3227046 

694280 

177 
1000 


5319762 

4429881 

889118 

167 
1000 


7239903 
6074562 
1165441 

160 
1000 

.... 


9663226 
8110108 
1538118 

159 

1000 



The result of this table astonishes by its iRass, biif 
who could have, at the epoch of the revolution, an- 
ticipated the actual increase? The arithmetical 
principles on vyrhich the table was constructed, were 
the positive increments of three periods, 1790 to 



442 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

1800, 1800 to 1810 and 1810 to 1820. Assuming 
3,929,328, the population at the commencement of 
these periods, a ratio of 3^ per cent up to their ter- 
mination in 1820, yields results very nearly commen- 
surate with the real enumerations. In order, how- 
ever, to be within moderate limits, the ratio of 3^ 
per cent was only continued to 1840, and from 
thence 3 per centum for the whites, and a slightly 
decreasing ratio for the coloured caste. 

It may not be irrelevant to make some compara- 
tive estimates of the distributive population of the 
United States, as it is stated prospectively in 1940. 
Rejecting for mountains, sterile plains, and other 
places incapable of dense population, 727,300 square 
miles, will leave to the United States 1,500,000 
square miles, equal as an aggregate to as great an 
extent of southern and central Europe, in respect to 
soil, climate or commercial facility. If we suppose 
386 millions distributed over one million five hun- 
dred thousand square miles, it gives 257 and a small 
surplus fraction to each. This falls far short of 
some large districts of Europe. It is now a well es- 
tablished fact, that the general population of Europe 
is slowly, and in some of the already dense sections, 
rapidly on the increase, and those who deny to the 
territory of the United States, limited as I have re- 
duced the habitable extent, an equality to Europe, 
have studied comparative geography to little pur- 
pose, and those who deny or neglect the influence 
on population, of moral and political causes, are 
badly qualified to decide upon the philosophy of his- 
tory. Volumes of vicious legislation compose the 
far most onerous burthen on human beings, and one 
parchment roll may either make room for millions 
and provide for their comfortable subsistence, or it 
may spread disease, misery and death amongst a 
few scattered thousands. Under the existing state 
of legislation, and it is far from perfect, the plains 
of Missouri will soon swarm with an active popula- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 443 

tion, and the silks of Asia be imported to and worn 
on the banks of Columbia. 

The preceding views are general, and exclude 
any reference to difference of caste. Hitherto the 
white caste possessed advantages which secured a 
small fraction more rapidity of increase over the 
coloured ; the difference of moral condition is not 
likely to essentially change, and consequently, the 
relative numbers will remain not far from station- 
ary. In a view so general as the present, it is un- 
necessary to make any distinction in the coloured 
caste, between those actually slaves, and those who 
are nominally free, as their degraded condition in 
the estimation of the whites, exposes the free colour- 
ed to all the worst evils of slavery, and so deeply 
cut and invariably placed is this mental mark of infe- 
riority, that it operates as a seal of corruption on 
every face where African blood can be suspected. 
In the eye of reason such distinction is absurd, but 
we must write and even legislate upon human opin- 
ion as it is, and not upon what it is not. 

There is another and a most momentous point of 
view, in which the population of the United States 
may be placed ; that is, the certain change of the 
seat of power, by the motion of central force, from 
the Atlantic slope, into the central basin. By turn- 
ing to table 15, page 254, it will be seen that the 
United States part of the Atlantic slope, amounts to 
252,300 square miles, whilst tables 19 and 20, pages 
295 and 297, will render it evident, that excluding 
the immense regions of Missouri, more than one 
million of square miles spreads in the central valley. 
With every rational deduction, the capabilities of 
the interior section to sustain population exceed 
that of the Atlantic slope as 4 to 1. How rapidly 
the political importance of the central valley is ad- 
vancing, may be seen by the following : 



000,000 


1820 


143.000 




1820 


14,273 


12,282 


1820 


55,211 


24,520 


1820 


147,178 


406,511 


1820 


564,317 


76,556 


1820 


153,407 


4,762 


1820 


10,000 


40,362 


1820 


75,448 


20,845 


1820 


66,586 


230,760 


1820 


581,434 


261,727 


1820 


422,813 



444 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

No. LXXX.— Population of 



Arkansas 1810 

Illinois 1810 

Indiana 1810 

Kentucky 1810 

Louisiana 1810 

Michigan 1810 

Mississippi 1810 

Missouri 1810 

Ohio 1810 



1,078,325 2,233,667 

In this estimate, no notice is taken of western Vir- 
ginia, Pennsylvania and New York, but restricted to 
whole organized states and territories, and embra- 
ces an area of about 745,000 square miles, or only 
a distributive population of 4 to the square mile. 
We have here, therefore, an immense space equal 
to the one fourth part of all Europe, on which men 
have only recently placed their residence, and 
where their dwellings are still few and scattered, but 
where numbers are doubling decennially. The ex- 
isting population in the central basin amounts to at 
least 3,300,000, and whilst the entire numbers in the 
United States have increased in 38 years, from about 
4 to 13 millions, the interior mass, has in a similar 
period, augmented from 100,000 to 3,300,000, demon- 
strating a powerful gravitating force westward. 

When we carry into this analysis, the increased 
and increasing facility of intercommunication, the 
still prodigious disparity of relative density of pop- 
ulation, and consequent cheapness of land in the 
west, we are fully warranted in assuming as a base 
of calculation, that the respective ratio of increase 
between the sections, will continue to maintain at 
least as great inequality as heretofore. On the pv^^ 



OF THE UNllED STATES. 443 

ceding supposition, the central population would 
double every 10 years; but to be within bounds, ta- 
ble No. SI is calculated on a ratio of 5 per cent per 
annum. 

No. LXXXI. — Population of the central basin. 



1826 


3,000,000 


1851 


10,136,850 


1827 


3,150,000 


1852 


10,643,690 


1828 


3,307,500 


1853 


11,176,874 


1829 


3,472,855 


1854 


11,735,717 


1830 


3,646,495 


1855 


12,324,503 


1831 


3,828,815 


1856 


12,940,728 


1832 


4,020,255 


1857 


13,587,763 


1833 


4,221,265 


1858 


14,267,151 


1834 


4,432,325 


1859 


14,980,508 


1835 


4,653,940 


1860 


15,729,533 


1836 


4,886,645 


1861 


16,516,009 


1837 


5,130,975 


1862 


17,341,809 


1838 


5,387,520 


1863 


18,208,899 


1839 


5,656,895 


1864 


19,119,344 


1840 


5,939,715 


1865 


20,075,311 


1841 


6,236,700 


1866 


21,079,076 


1842 


6,548,535 


1867 


22,133,029 


1843 


6,875,960 


1868 


23,239,680 


1844 


7,219,755 


1869 


24,401,664 


1845 


7,580,740 


1870 


25,621,747 


1846 


7,959,775 


1871 


26,902,834 


1847 


8,357,760 


1872 


28,247,975 


1848 


8,775,645 


1873 


29,660,373 


1849 


9,194,425 


1874 


31,143,391 


1850 


9,654,145 


1875 


32,700,560 



By reference to table 80, it will be seen that the 
aggregate population of the United States for 1870, 
is estimated at 47,368,544, and comparing that with 
the same epoch, in table 81, it is shown that a period 
of less than 45 years from the present time, is suf- 
ficient to give superior population to the central ba- 
sin. In factj the ratio used in table 81, is too Ioay, 
pp 



446 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

If the march of the emigrating column to the west 
is not arrested by unforeseen causes, the preponder- 
ance will be in the basin of the Mississippi in less 
than 40 years, or about 1865. And about that epoch, 
the relative density of population will be on the 
Atlantic slope, 90 to the square mile, and on the 
central basin 25. If every thing else is considered 
equal, the capabilities of farther increase after 1865 
or 1870, will be as 9 to 2|, in favour of the central 
basin of North America over the Atlantic slope ; 
and when each section is peopled in proportion to 
relative surface, the advantage of the central basin 
must have an excess, as 80 to 22 or 40 to 11. 
- In an elementary view of the United States, the 
first object of importance, after the numbers and 
distribution of the people, is certainly the means of 
intercommunication. Roads are more or less im- 
proved in all civilized countries, but it is in commer- 
cial and manufacturing countries, where roads and 
canals secure their due share of national importance. 
Roads and canals are, in a most emphatic manner, 
labour-saving machines, and it must be acknow- 
ledged that their creation and improvement in the 
United States, have progressed with a force, rapidi- 
ty, and magnitude, fiilly commensurate with the in- 
crease of population. I cannot engage even to name 
all the great leading roads, or all the canals either 
completed, in progress of completion, or designee], 
but the following synopsis will serve to exhibit the 
vast and invaluable interest already created in the 
United States by canals and roads. In the former, 
however, ought always to be included, all improve- 
ments of any kind, tending to make the channels of 
rivers more navigable. 

The canal system of the United States had its 
origin in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Con- 
necticut. The peculiar structure of that section of 
the United States, has been noticed in the Physical 
section of this View. From such structure, the 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 44/ 

coast, though aboundmg in harbours, and though the 
tides rose with augmenied height, the rivers were, 
in their natural state, very unnavigable. To obvi- 
ate this disadvantage, the rapid but fine streams of 
the Merrimac and Connecticut have been so far 
opened, by side cuts and locks, as to extend the 
navigation of their bosoms to almost their sources. 

The most important haven of the eastern states, 
that of Boston, having no great river entering its re- 
cesses, a bold, and when designed, a sublime plan 
was made to unite the Merrimac basin to Boston 
harbour. This eventuated in the Middlesex caiial, 
so called from the county of Massachusetts, through 
which it extends, 29 1 miles from Boston to Chelms- 
ford, and supplied by Concord river, with 136 feet 
of lockage. The Middlesex canal was the first on 
any considerable scale undertaken in the United 
States, and, besides its intrinsic importance to Mas- 
sachusetts and New Hampshire, had great influ- 
ence in promoting similar works elsewhere, but par- 
ticularly the opening of side canals on the Merrimac 
river, thus making that stream in effect a continua- 
tion of the canal. 

Blackstone river, one of the northern branches of 
Paw tucket river, rises in Worcester county, Massa- 
chusetts, and flowing SSE. into Rhode Island, af- 
forded a canal route from the centre of Massachu- 
setts to the city of Providence, which by the name 
of Blackstone canal, has been undertaken and is in 
progress. Length 45 miles froni Worcester to Pro- 
vidence. 

Next, westward from the basins of Merrimac and 
Boston, stretches the still more extensive navigable 
basin, the Connecticut. In its natural state, this fine 
river, like every other stream of that part of the 
United States, was greatly impeded by shoals and 
rapids, which have, however, been so far removed 
or obviated as to admit a boat navigation of 250 
miles to Haverhill ; ships of 7^ feet draught are na- 



448 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

vigated 30 miles to Hartford, near the head of the 
tides. 

Farmington canal, from Northampton, Massachu- 
setts, to New Haven, by Westfield, Farmington, and 
Quinnipaug rivers, is a part of the Connecticut sys- 
tem of inland navigation; see page 162, and sequel. 
This canal is partly completed. 

The most remarkable of the natural inlets of the 
United States, has become the theatre of its most 
extensive canal operations. In a state of nature, 
this singular tide river, the Hudson, presented at 
once an opening of one hundred and sixty miles di- 
rectly into the continent, and directly towards ano- 
ther navigable and much more extensive basin, the 
St. Lawrence. Above the head of the tides, the 
Hudson divides into two great channels, one from 
the north, and another from the west. By the val- 
ley of the former, the most elevated table land into 
St. Lawrence was 90 feet, and by the latter or 
western branch, the Mohawk, only 420 into Lake 
Ontario. To any mind, even slightly disciplined to 
reflect on canal improvement, to trace the routes of 
the Erie and Champlain canals was a necessary 
operation, if made acquainted with the true geo- 
graphical features of the state of New York, The 
fame of first suggesting these canals, will be per- 
haps disputed between Gouverneur Morris and De 
Witt Clinton, but their execution may be safely 
placed on the tombstone of the latter, nor could hu- 
man nature demand a more sublime epitaph than 
"THE CHAMPLAIN AND ERIE CANALS." 
By those two stupendous channels, upwards of 
460 miles of artificial water lines have been given to 
the United States, and the two basins of the Hudson 
and St. Lawrence, connected at distant points, 
opening the commerce of the Canadian sea to the 
city of New York. The importance of these new 
national arteries will appear with more force, from 
the following comparative sketch: 



OF THE UXITED STATES. 449 

The plan and execution of the two canals of 
New York, and perhaps still more, the plan and very- 
near advance to completion of the Welland canal in 
Upper Canada, have arrested not alone the atten- 
tion of the people of Canada and the United States, 
but of Europe, to the natural and artificial navigation 
of the sea of Canada. 

The St. Lawrence or drain of that inland sea, is 
a river, or more correctly a strait, entirely peculiar 
to itself in America, and having but one counter- 
part, that of the Marmora Black sea, and sea of 
Azoph. To reach this fresh-water inland sea by a 
canal route, from the dawn of civilized settlement, 
engaged the mind of every man of deep reflection 
who traversed the intermediate space from the val- 
ley of the Hudson. The accomplishment of this 
daring design we have witnessed, by the opening of 
not one, but two chains of canal and river routes — 
The Ei'ie canal entering above, and the Champlain 
below the great rock shelf of Niagara. 

As far as the mere practicability of forming ca- 
nals from the Hudson into the St. Lawrence basin is 
concerned, the dispute is at rest ; but there are other 
very weighty considerations connected with this 
great section of commercial intercommunication 
which have never yet received due attention. The 
day is approaching by not slow advance when the 
free navigation of the St. Lawrence will be demand- 
ed by the people of the northwestern sections of the 
United States, and demanded in a voice which nei- 
ther the United States nor British governments, will 
be able to disregard. However despotic or free in 
name, all governments are in fact the mere organs 
of public will, and when events or interests of suifi- 
cient magnitude, arouse any people to the discussion 
of their aggregate will, governments of whatever 
form must yield to moral and physical force com- 
bined. It is a question not yet decided, how far any 
nation having political authority over the territory 
p p2 



450 POLITICAL GEOGliAPHY 

along the banks of a natural water channel, is autho- 
rised by the laws of either nature or nations, to bar 
its free use to other nations, particularly in cases 
where absolutely requisite to international commu- 
nication. To answer this question in favour of the 
right of stoppage, would be to say that Denmark 
has a right to close the Baltic, and Turkey a similar 
right to deny a passage through the Dardanelles 
and Thracian Bosphorus; and without any very vio- 
lent stretch of concession, would grant to France 
and Great Britain, the right to close by convention 
between themselves the British channel. 

On the side of the United States, as early as 1827, 
two canals were in actual operation. Previous, how- 
ever, to the completion of either, it became obvious 
to the authorities and people of the Canadas, that 
when open, the Erie canal, in particular, would di- 
vert an immense mass of produce from the St. Law- 
rence channel to New York. With a view to obvi- 
ate consequences of such a revolution, and with still 
more enlightened and liberal views, the Canada 
Land Company projected, and have in great part 
executed the Welland canal. As this new chain of 
inland navigation is but little known in the United 
States, some descriptive detail is necessary. 

Lakes Erie and Ontario are separated by a penin- 
sula, extending with a length of 40 miles east and 
west, between the western extremity of the latter, 
and the south-eastern of the former, and Avith a 
mean width of 25 miles. Along the eastern border 
of this peninsula winds Niagara river, falling from 
lake to lake 334 feet. Three-fourths of the whole 
surface is a plain, in part marshy, and spreading 
northward from, and very little elevated above lake 
Erie. The plain is terminated about six miles from 
lake Ontario by that rock ledge over which the wa- 
ters of lake Erie precipitate, and form that sublime 
natural curiosity, the falls of Niagara. Between the 
summit level and the southern shore of lake Onta- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 451 

lio, tlie ground falls rapidly, and leaves a narrow 
alluvial border along the lake, stretching from the 
mouth of Niagara river to Burlington bay. 

Grand or Ouse river of Upper Canada rises at 
N. lat. 43° 40', long. 3° 30' W. from Washington, 
in the country of the Six Nations of Indians, and 
flowing thence south 70 miles, enters Haldimand 
county, and turning to S. E. winds by a very tortuous 
channel but sluggish current into lake Erie, which 
it enters 40 miles directly west from the outlet of 
that lake, after an entire comparative course of 100 
miles. This stream in the lower part of its channel 
forms the southernmost termination to the peninsula 
we are describing. 

Rising east from Grand river, at about 16 miles 
from lake Erie, the Welland or Chippewa river, 
flows by a general course to the eastward, and falls 
into Niagara river immediately above the rapids 
which precede the falls. Similar to Grand river, 
the Welland is a very sluggish stream. In reality 
as has been already noticed, the whole plain above 
the ridge is an almost dead flat, having in no direc- 
tion sufficient inclination to admit any great veloci- 
ty of current in the streams. 

The Welland canal commences in Port Maitland 
at the mouth of Grand river, and follows the chan- 
nel of that stream one and two-fiftlis of a mile, and 
thence up Broad creek seven-eighths of a mile. 
Here the artificial channel commences by a cut of 
10 miles through Winfieet marsh. This extensive 
morass spreads betv/een Grand and Welland rivers, 
elevated but from 10 to 16 feet above lake Erie. 
Entering Welland river and descending it 10 miles, 
the canal is then conducted through the summit 
ridge, by a stupendous deep cut, only equalled in 
America by the Desague near Mexico. The level 
of Welland river is preserved to lock No. 1, 4^ miles 
from the deep cut. Thus far, steam boats, by either 
Welland or Grand rivers, are admitted. Approach- 



452 POLITICAL GEOGRAPKY. 

}ng the brow of the mountain ridge, another deep 
cut of one-fourth of a mile, leads to the tremendous 
brow, down which in a mile and ll-16ths, nearly 
the whole difference of level between Lake Erie and 
Ontario, is overcome by 17 locks of 100 by 22 feet. 
The locks westward of the mountain ridge are 125 
by 40 feet. There are very few if any works of art 
yet constructed in America, more worthy of a visit 
than this precipice of locks which are placed along 
the declivity, winding from right to left, none nearer 
each other than 30 yards, in order to give room to 
intervening reservoirs. At the foot of this series, 
the canal is led along a ravine 2^ miles by 12 locks, 
to St. Catharine's, having descended from the sum- 
mit level 322 feet. From the latter point to Lake 
Ontario 5 miles, the canal, by four locks, reaches 
its northern termination in Port Dalhousie. 

If we consider the colonial condition of Canada, 
the thinness of population and limited resources of 
the people of that country, it is impossible to repress 
our admiration of the splendid design and prompt 
execution of this truly great work. It will, when 
completed, admit the passage of the largest vessels 
which can navigate Lake Erie, and it is expected 
to be opened late in the present or early in the en- 
suing year. 

The Canada Land Company has the immortal 
honour of planning and forming this connecting link 
in their chain of water intercommunication between 
the upperandlower sub-basins of the St. Lawrence. 
Never has any work more effectually answered its 
purposes than will the Welland canal. The largest 
vessels that can navigate lake Erie, and enter its 
shallow ports, are generally about from 50 to 90 
tons, with a breadth of beam of 20, and keel of 90 
feet. The objects which were to be obtained by 
the formation of the Welland canal, have already 
been stated, but there are other advantages secured 
to its projectors, or possessors, which cannot be over- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 453 

looked, and one of the greatest arises from the pre- 
vailing winds on Lake Erie, and from the peculiar 
manner by which rhat lake debouches into Niagara 
river. The winds throughout the year blow so ge- 
nerally down the lake as to demand for a voyage 
from BufFaloe to Detroit, from three to four or five 
times as many days as the reverse passage. Lake 
Erie narrowing also at its north-eastern extremity, 
and Niagara river turning nearly at right angles to 
the general course of the lake, forms a gorge into 
which ice is driven by the never tiring westerly and 
north-westerly winds. From these combined causes, 
the outlet of the Welland canal will be open from 
one to two months annually longer than will that of 
the Erie canal from BufFaloe and Black Rock. 

Without indulging an illiberal spirit of national 
rivalry, it is obvious that nature itself points out the 
necessity of obviating by artificial means the very 
defective navigation of Lake Erie. Except Detroit 
and Niagara rivers, no one of the shore harbours of 
Lake Erie, admits a safe and steady entrance of 7 
feet; also along the United States' shore, extend 
long lines of rock, and on the Canada side equal- 
ly extended and dangerous reefs of sand. To 
these unchangeable impediments in the earth, may 
be added the perennial currents of air, to doom the 
navigation of this sheet of water to eternal danger, 
and diminutive tonnage. " Rivers nvere made to 
supply canals with water ^^ said Brindley, and 
never was the expression more applicable than 
along Lake Erie. The same streams which deny 
entrance to large vessels from the lake, would afford 
an abundant supply of water to a canal: never cer- 
tainly did more circumstances combine to excite to 
the performance of any other undertaking, than does 
to that of encircling I^ake Erie with a canal from 
BufFaloe to Detroit. It would more than complete 
the chain already in part executed in the Erie, and 
in progress in the Ohio canal; and the whole taken 



454 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

together, constitute one of the most useful and ex- 
tensive lines of natural and artificial navigation, not 
only in existence, but which the earth admits to be 
put into existence. 

The following table of stationary distances will at 
once enable the reader to perceive the facilities 
which nature itself presents to the advancement of 
the proposed work. 

BufFaloe harbour to Smoker's creek, Miles. 4 

Cayuga creek, - - - - - 9 — 13 

Two Sisters creek, - - - - - 6 — 19 

Cattaraugus creek, 9 — 28 

Dunkirk harbour, - - . - - 13 — 41 

Fredonia creek, 1 — 42 

Portland mouth of Chatauque creek, - - 14— 56 
Northern angle of Pennsylvania, - - 10— 66 

Twenty Mile creek, - - . . . 1 — 6f 
Sixteen Mile creek, - - - - - 6 — 73 

Twelve Mile creek, 5— 78 

Erie town and harbour .... 8—86 

Fairview and mouth of Walnut creek, - 5— 91 

Elk Creek, - - - - . - -6—97 

Crooked creek, 5—102 

Northwest angle of Pennsylvania, - - - 4 — 106 
Coneaught village and river, - - - 1—107 
Ashtabula village and river, - . . . 14 — 121 
New Market and mouth of Grand river, - 27—148 

New Market Creek, 9—157 

Cuyahoga river and town of Cleveland, where 

the Ohio canal debouches into Lake Erie - 18 — 175 
Rocky river, ------ 6 — 181 

Black river, 18—199 

Beaver river, -..-.- 4 — 203 

Vermillion river, 5 — 208 

Old Woman's creek, 10-218 

Huron rivei', ------- 3 — 221 

Sandusky bay, .--.-- 10—231 

Portage river, 20—251 

Toussaint river, 8—259 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 455 

Maumee river, 15 — 274 

Raisin river, - 9 — 283 

Stoney creek, - - - - - - 5—288 

Huron river, 10—298 

Rouge river, - - 22 — 320 

33etroit, 3—325 

At the first view, it will no doubt to many per- 
sons appear extravagant, to propose bordering a na- 
vigable lake of above 300 miles in length, with a 
canal; but if a careful comparison is made between 
the safety and regularity of transportation by such 
a canal, and the very uncertain and tedious naviga- 
tion of the lake, a decision would at once be made 
in favour of the former. The same canal boat which 
would be loaded in the Ohio or Hudson, could with- 
out transhipment, be conveyed to the opposite ex- 
treme. 

The most remarkable circumstance, however, in 
such a canal, is that it could be carried upwards of 
300 miles on one level, if such a mode should be 
requisite; and in any manner of construction, would 
demand less lockage and be more secure of an un- 
interrupted supply of water, than any other canal 
line ot equal length which can be traced in the 
United States. 

Beside the Cuyahoga and Ohio canal, several 
other navigable streams issue from Ohio and Michi- 
gan, and flow into Lake Erie, of which Vermillion, 
Huron of Ohio, Sandusky, Maumee, Raisin, Huron 
of Michigan, and Riviere Rouge are considerable 
volumes of water. 

In the very rapid advance of population, the al- 
most naturally continuous navigable line by the Wa- 
bash and Maumee, will come forward and obtrude 
itself on public notice, much sooner than any per- 
son would now dare to anticipate. A single glance 
on a map of that part of the United States, will ren- 
der demonstrative, how completely the Wabash and 



456 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Maumee route would harmonize with the Ohio and 
Erie canals. But we must pause; the many nation- 
al and individual benefits of the suggested improve- 
ments are so obvious, as to present themselves at 
once without a prompter. 

The Weiland canal is not, however, the only 
large artificial channel projected and in progress in 
Canada; the Rideau canal arrests great attention 
at present, not only in Canada but in Great Britain. 
The Rideau canal is intended to obviate the very 
difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence, above Mon- 
treal, and in time of war with the United States, to 
"obtain an inland route of communication between 
Upper and Lower Canada, not liable to interruption 
by a foreign enemy. " The original design of this 
canal dates back to 1816, and proposed to com- 
mence at the mouth of Rideau river into the Otta- 
was, and thence following the course of the former 
until about 20 miles below the lake of the same 
name, and thence ascending a small stream called 
Irish creek, which passes through the township of 
Kitley, and in some places approaches within 18 
miles of the St. Lawrence. After reaching the head 
of this stream, which in summer is almost dry, it 
was proposed to make a short cut across a neck of 
land into the Ganonanoqui waters in the town 
of Beverly, and then following that river to 
its outlet into Lake Ontario, or rather St. Law- 
rence river, 18 miles below Kingston. By table 
15, page 256, it appears to be 173 miles from King- 
ston to Montreal; by the route of the Ottawas river 
and Rideau canal, the distance will be upwards of 
200 miles, but by the latter will be avoided the dan- 
gerous rapids of St. Lawrence, and in the opinion it 
would seem of British politicians, the still more dan- 
gerous neighbourhood of the United States. 

Apart from any national predilections, but re- 
garding improvements, whether in Canada or the 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 457 

United States, with respect to their effect on hu- 
human happiness, and as forming connecting links 
in a great system of inland navigation, I have en- 
grouped with the New York canals those of Wel- 
land and Rideau. 

Besides the great lines, by pre-eminence called 
Erie and Champlain, several minor short, but 
nevertheless very important canals, are either ac- 
tually completed or designed in New York, 

Oswego canal, length 38 miles, is completed, 
uniting the Hudson and Erie canal with Lake On- 
tario, and extending from Salina to Oswego. 

Seneca canal, which in a length of 20 miles con- 
nects the Seneca and Cayuga lakes with the Erie 
canal, following the united outlets of those two 
large lakes. 

Delaware and Hudson canal, formed along the~ 
vallies of the Nevisink, Rondout, and Esopus rivers, 
unites these two rivers by a line drawn through 
Orange, Sullivan, and Ulster counties. New York. 
The course of this canal being in some respects pe- 
culiar, demands a more particular notice. Leaving 
the Delaware and following Nevisink and Bashes 
creeks about 20 miles, enters the valley of Rondout 
creek, which it pursues about 20 miles, and thence 
passes the intermediate neck of land into Esopus or 
Kingston creek, which it follows to the Hudson ; it 
is completed and in operation; entire length 65 
miles. 

A second canal connexion between the Hudson 
and Delaware basins is now in progress by the Mor- 
ris canal. The line of the Morris canal leaves the 
Delaware at Phillipsburgh, opposite Easton, in 
Pennsylvania, and carried over Warren county. 
New Jersey, to its extreme north-east angle about 
30 miles; thence eastward through Morris and Es- 
sex counties to the Passaick river, and along the 
valley of the latter to Newark; leaves that city and 
crosses Passaick and Hackinsack, and winds through 



458 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the Bergen marshes to Jersey city, opposite New 
York. 

The State of Pennsylvania in respect to naviga- 
ble rivers is in a high degree advantageously situ- 
ated, though none of the larger streams which wind 
over this state either rise or enter their recipients 
within its limits. Of these great commercial or na- 
vigable channels, or chains of channels, the Dela- 
ware on the east, Susquehanna in the centre, and 
Ohio on the west, claim precedence. The political 
boundaries of the state of Pennsylvania completely 
and obliquely traverse its river vallies, and have 
compelled the inhabitants to incur immense labour 
and expense to unite their natural water courses by 
artificial improvements. This expenditure of toil 
and money has been met, and, at this juncture, few, 
if any other states in the United States, have under- 
taken and executed more; — no other state has so 
extensive works in actual progress. The Lehigh 
river, above Easton, toMauch Chunk or Lehigh coal 
mines, has been rendered navigable by dams and 
falling locks, executed by White and Hazard at 
the expense of the Lehigh coal and navigation com- 
pany. A canal is now in progress from Easton down 
the Delaware to Bristol; length about 50 miles. 
The Schuylkill river has been completely canalled, 
from tide water at the city of Philadelphia to the 
extensive coal mines on its sources, upwards of 110 
miles. To unite the Schuylkill navigation to that of 
Susquehanna the Union Canal has been constructed, 
following the vallies of Tulpehocken and Swatana. 
creeks from Reading in Berks to Middletown in 
Dauphin county. The Union is a link in a chain, 
now in progress, by the Susquehanna, Juniata, and 
Alleghany rivers to the city of Pittsburg. Beside 
these immense lines, which traverse in connexion 
the entire state, there exists a small but important 
canal, to pass the rapids or Conewago falls at York 
Haven on the Susquehanna; the Conestogo canal of 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 459 

18 miles, to open by that creek a navigable channel 
from the city of Lancaster to the Susquehanna river; 
and preparations are making to extend a rail road 
from the city of Philadelphia, by Lancaster, to Co- 
lumbia on the Susquehanna. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio canal properly con- 
nects Avith the Pennsylvania system, though. leaving 
tide water at Washington city. If executed agree- 
able to the original design, it will traverse a very in- 
teresting section of Pennsylvania, and unite with 
the Pennsylvania canal at Pittsburg; and if the for- 
mer should be continued to Lake Erie, the two 
channels forming a common centre at the junction 
of the Allegany and Monongahela, will render the 
city of Pittsburg a most important manufacturing 
and commercial emporium. But in the accelerated 
advance of canal improvement, another line of in- 
calculable value will meet public attention. The 
Ohio river at some stages of water is a very safely 
navigable stream; but is annually in autumn ren- 
dered unnavigable from drought. This impediment 
continues with diminished extent as low as Louis- 
ville, and can be obviated only by a canal along the 
entire bank of the river, or by dams and flushes. 
The former infinitely most eligible mode will no 
doubt be ultimately adopted, and secure at once 
more safety and a steady conveyance at that season 
of the year when most necessary. My limits pre- 
clude detail on the subject of extending a canal line 
along the Ohio, but I am well convinced from what 
I know of that river, that such must be the use 
made of its water at no very distant day. The best 
commentaiy on this subject might find a text in the 
census tables inserted in this chapter. 

The Susquehanna navigable basin connects New 
York, Pennsylvania, and Maryland, and a cross 
line of canals could be carried along its middle 
channel, from tide water in Chesapeake bay to the 
]2rie canal, rising at the utmost height to 885 feet. 



46o Political GEOGUAPHt 

(See table 5, page 71.) The great features of this 
section of the United States have been so amply 
noticed under the head of physical geography, that 
little Can be usefully added in this place. 

The Susquehanna is followed by another lesser but 
very important river valley, the Potomac. The rise 
of a great emporium between these two streams pre- 
sents an anomaly in the political geography of the; 
northern part of the United States^ Baltimore, with 
great accumulated wealth, is actively engaged to de- 
termine, I will boldly say, the most important ques- 
tion in political economy. The Relative value, in a 
national point Of view, between roads and canals, as 
means of commercial intercommunication, bids fair 
to meet a decisive comparison. If the Baltimore rail 
road succeeds, the indispensable benefits of a naviga- 
ble river to a commercial city will be rendered at 
least very doubtful, and, in point of fact, the already 
rapid growth of Baltimore goes far to solve the pro- 
blem. The Baltimore rail road and Chesapeake 
and Ohio canal have both been commenced. July 
4th, 1828, is the date of the incipient beginning of 
those two great worksc 

With the valley of Potomac terminates the exe- 
cution or even the undertaking of any very exten- 
sive canal improvement on the Atlantic slope ad- 
vancing from north to south. If the reader will 
turn to the physical section of this view, he will find 
an ample notice of the radical change in the navi- 
gable facilities afforded by the Atlantic bays and 
rivers north and south from the Chesapeake. With 
James' river terminates the northern system, and 
beyond that stream to Florida we meet, with but 
few exceptions, wide and shallow sounds and rivers 
impeded by bars and shoals. The great sea-sand 
alluvial border widens, whilst the tides are greatly 
lessened in elevation. I wrote the following reflec- 
tions on the advantages possessed by Virginia, 
sliould that state enter the list of those of her sister 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 461 

states, the inhabitants of which are inclined to avail 
themselves of local resources. 

In every country there is some leading object of 
pursuit, which impels, with more or less force, the 
acts of the people. This leading principle may be 
called the temper of a nation, and necessarily ex- 
erts a controlling power over all its acts. Where 
the people have a voice, however, it is they who 
act, and are acted on by this moral force. Internal 
improvement is at this time the object which evin- 
ces the paramount feeling of the people of this coun- 
try. To meliorate their condition in every practi- 
cable manner that awakened ingenuity may point 
out, will henceforth mark and exalt the character 
of the people of the United States ; but from the 
complex nature of the form of government, works 
of public utility will be undertaken and executed 
with unequal intelligence and energy, following the 
impulse given by local state politics. 

New York and Virginia offer themselves as pro- 
minent examples, illustrative of the foregoing expo- 
sition. These two states, with very unequal internal 
features, possess in one respect, in a very remarka- 
ble manner, similar advantages, as connecting links 
between the great Atlantic harbours and the vast 
i^'TERioR of North America; both have a territori- 
al extension, which grasps the necessary extremes. 
The western border of one reaches the great Canadi- 
an sea, that of the latter is formed by the Ohio river. 
With such resemblance as to the facility, how vast 
has been the difference in positive execution of 
plans to render their respective advantages availa- ~ 
ble? Few citizens of Virginia could, without regret, 
answer the interrogatory. From local position, 
from the obvious effect on the individual prosperity 
of the people, and on the importance of the state as 
a member of the confederacy, Virginia, in place of 
being behind New York and Pennsylvania, ought 
to have been the leading state of the Union, in 
Q. q 2 



462 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



every great object of internal improvement. In 
many respects, the mouth of the Chesapeake bay 
is the best entrance on the coast of the United 
States. So far from being ever frozen, this immense 
commercial inlet is never impeded v/ith ice. 

In order to place the local advantages of Virgi- 
nia in a clear light, the following tables have been 
calculated. Though absolute accuracy cannot be 
vouched for, yet the general results will serve to 
give views sufficiently correct of the relative eleva- 
tion, extent, and distributive population of Virginia. 





Summary Table of Virginia 






Sections. 


Square 

Miles. 


Whites. 


Free Per- 
sons of 
Colour. 


Slaves. 


Total. 


Pop, 
to sq. 
mile. 


Eastern, 
Middle, 
Western, 


9,035 

27,72>7 
28,130 


116,179 

350.672 
134,122 


16,959 

17,968 

1,070 


128,448 

280,024 

13,316 


261,584 
648,664 
148,508 


29 

231 
5 


Amount, 


64,892 


601,973 


35,997 


421,888 


1,058,756 


16i 



Alluvial, or Eastern Sectiofi of Virginia, compo- 
sed of Accomac, Caroline, Charles City, Elizabeth 
City, Essex, Gloucester, Greenesville, Isle of Wight, 
James City, King and Queen, King George, King 
William, Lancaster, Mathews, Middlesex, Nanse- 
raond. New Kent, Norfolk, Northampton, Northum- 
berland, Princess Anne, Prince George's, Prince 
William, Richmond, Southampton, Surry, Sussex, 
Warwick, Westmoreland and York counties. 

Middle or Hilly Section of Virginia, Albemarle, 
Amelia, Amherst, Augusta, Bath, Bedford, Berke- 
ley, Bottetourt, Brunswick, Buckingham, Campbell, 
Charlotte, Chesterfield, Culpeper, Cumberlandj 
Dinwiddie, Fairfax, Fauquier, Fluvanna, Franklin, 
Frederick, Goochland, Halifax, Hampsliire, Hano- 
ver, Hardy, Henrico, Henry, Jefferson, Loudoun, 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



46: 



Louisa, Lunenburg, Madison, Mecklenburg, Mor- 
gan, Nottoway, Nelson, Orange, Patrick, Pendle- 
ton, Pittsylvania, Prince Edward, Powhatan, Rock- 
bridge, Rockingham, Shenandoah, Spottsylvania, 
and Stafford counties. 

Western Section of Virginia, Brooke, Cabell, 
Grayson, Giles, Greenbrier, Harrison, Kanawha, 
Lee, Lewis, Mason, Monongalia, Monroe, Mont- 
gomery, Ohio, Nicholas, Preston, Pocahontas, Ran- 
dolph, Russell, Scott, Tazewell, Tyler, Washing- 
ton, Wood, and Wythe counties. 

No, LXXXn. — Tahle of the ascents and descents from 
tide-water in James' river to the month of the Great Ken- 
hawa, hy the route of Jamestown, Craig's creek. Sinking 
creek, and Great Kenhawa. 



Richmond, up James' river, to 

mouth of Craig's creek,. . . . 
Up Craig's creek to the moudi 

of John's Creek,. 

Highest spring tributary to 

Craig's creek, 

Lowest point on dividing ridge, 
Higliesl spring tributary to 

Sinking creek, 

Moutli of Sinking creek, 

Down Great Kanawha to the 

mouth of Greenbriar river, 

Bovvyer's Ferry, 

Kanawha at the foot of the 

Great Falls, 

Ohio river at the mouth of the 

Great Kanawha, 



Miles. 




Feet. 1 




200 


Rises 




925 


49 


249 


do. 


345 


1270 


8i 
04 


257^ 


do.l 
do. 


228 
5S 


2498 
2551 


oi 

34 


258 
292 


Falls 
do. 


42 
924 


2509 
1585 


55 

46 


347 
393 


do. 
do. 


392 
403 


lo3b 

930 


21 


414 


do. 


341 


589 


94 


508 


do. 


108 


481 



Let any citizen of Virginia cast his eye on the 
splendid map of his state, and range over its bays. 



464 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

rivers and mountains, from Norfolk to the month of 
Great Kanawha, and what must be his reflections 
on not seeing traced even a great connecting road. 
Without intending any reproach to the people of 
Virginia, which would be at once uncandid and un- 
just, we may seek the stationary position of the 
state in other causes. The table given, shev/s the 
very unequal distribution of her population, and 
serves also to explain some, otherwise very intricate 
effects of its local politics ; but Virginia has, like 
New York and Pennsylvania, a territorial extent, 
which renders her utterly independent of the con- 
federacy in the performance of any great work, 
canal or road, to unite the Atlantic slope with 
the valley of Ohio. The two fine rivers, James 
and Kanawha, seem to flow in directions, and to 
have pierced the mountain chains in such a manner, 
as to remove what was beyond human force, and 
leave to the people of Virginia the sublime task of 
completing what nature left undone. The rivers 
have carried on an unceasing war with the appa- 
rently stable mountains, and worn them down to 
their base. 

In a state possessing such a natural line, and 
such distinguished men as are nov\r engaged in the 
work of internal improvement, the great natu- 
ral line of James and Kanawha river, cannot al- 
ways remain unimproved. It is a narrow and con- 
tracted view of canal or road creation, in such a 
country as that of the United States, to consider it of 
local interest. No canal or road, traversing any 
state, can have its resulting benefits confined to 
that particular political section. Such improve- 
ments are national, and if well constructed, they arc 
permanent as the natural features themselves. ' If a 
line of canals, or a line of roads and canals, were 
therefore constructed from tide water in James ri- 
ver to the Ohio at the mouth of Great Kanawha, 
then would another chain be added to bind the cast 



OF TliE UNITED STATES. 465 

to the west, and another ligament be created to 
stfeilgtiien the Union, and secute that compact, 
■W^hich, however they may differ as to its provisionsj 
every citizen of tile United States holds sacred. 

The Delaware and Chesapeake canal, is in some 
respects the most important improvement of that 
kind attempted hitherto in the United States, and 
is one of the few Canal routes which could not by 
any human means be traversed by a road to equal 
advantage. This banal, if made of adequate dimen- 
sions,must produce the most extensive national bene- 
fits, particularly in time of war. Had such a chan- 
nel as this been open from 1812 to 1814 inclusive, it 
would have far more than saved the expense of its 
own construction. If made, however, with too slen- 
der capacity for sea vessels, it is a canal, which 
from local position, can hardly, as a commercial 
channel^ be of equal utility with those stretching 
towards or into the great interior agricultural dis- 
tricts of the United States. 

Beyond the Chesapeake bay, the Dismal Swamp 
canal, by a length of 23 miles unites the waters of 
James river to those of Albemarle sound. It is 
completed and admits vessels of 7 feet draught. 

Roanoke river enters deeply into the continent^ 
the tide ascends its channel 70 miles, but the navi- 
gable facilities above the tides are not in proportion 
to volume. Some advance has been made to remove 
impediments in its stream, but still the Roanoke is 
amongst the fine, but unimproved rivers of the Uni- 
ted States. 

Santee and Pedee, it has already been noticed^ 
have ample volumes of water and debouche into the 
Atlantic Ocean near the Same point. Both are 
shallow and impeded by bars near their mouths. 
A canal has been constructed from the Santee at 
Eutaw, to Cooper river, uniting the bason of Santee 
with Charleston harbour, distance from Charleston 
into Santee about 60 miles. It is in contemplation 



466 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

to extend the Santee navigation to Columbia, and 
upwards in other branches of the basin. 

Another canal system has been proposed, from 
the city of Savannah to the Alatamaha ; but little 
has yet been effected in such undertakings south of 
the Santee basin. The projected cut across the 
peninsula of Florida, is amongst the canal systems 
of the southern part of the United States, certainly 
of most importance, but also remains a splendid de- 
sign. 

From this cursory survey of the Canals of the At- 
lantic Slope, we proceed to notice those actually un- 
dertaken in the great central basin. In the physi- 
cal view of that section, I have already noticed the 
very remarkable facility of navigation from the nat- 
ural streams, but the extension of settlement super- 
induced still more direct channels of intercommuni- 
cation. The bold design and successful execution 
of the New York canals, excited emulation in Ohio, 
and the Erie and Sciota canal, or Ohio state canal 
of 306 miles, from Cleveland on lake Erie to the 
Ohio, at the mouth of Sciota, was surveyed and is 
now rapidly progressing, forming in fact, a continu- 
ation of the New York canal system. 

Another great canal line is also in progress in the 
state of Ohio, stretching from Cincinnati to Lake 
Erie, by the Miami and Maumee rivers. Part of 
the Miami branch is completed between Cincinnati 
and Dayton. 

A short, but very necessary canal to pass the 
Falls of the Ohio at Louisville, has been undertaken. 
This side cut about three miles in length, will obvi- 
ate the greatest natural obstruction in the bed of 
the Ohio ; and is progressing to near its completion. 

Canals have been projected in various other points 
of the Ohio 'and Mississippi regions; the most im- 
portant of which are, a canal to join lake Huron to 
Illinois river ; a canal or line of canals to unite the 
'^Yabash navigation to the Ohio Miami canal; j\ 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 467 

canal to pass the Muscle shoals in Tennessee ; a 
canal to unite the Tennessee to the Mobile naviga- 
tion, and the still more extended and necessary ca- 
nal along the southern shore of Lake Erie. 

I once heard the respectable Judge Rodney at 
Natchez, suggest the idea of an entire side cut along 
the western side of the Mississippi, from the mouth 
of the Ohio downwards. If steam boats had never 
been invented, the idea of this excellent man would 
deserve most serious attention, and with all the 
powers of the steam boat to overcome the current, 
the advance of population along the Mississippi, will 
no doubt eventuate in opening many of those natu- 
ral, but obstructed channels which wind over the 
great alluvial plain from Missouri to Louisiana. 
The Arkansas, Red, and Wachitau rivers, are to 
unite, and an immense circuit down the Mississippi 
and up the two latter avoided ; but I must desist 
from farther detail here and close this chapter with 
a survey of the mouth of the Mississippi. 

The subjoined view of the Delta of the Missis- 
sippi, as forming a part of the great navigable sys- 
tem of the United States, was first published in the 
American Farmer, Vol. 10, Nos. 16 and 17. 

It is somewhat singular, that amid the various 
projects of internal improvement, the greatest has 
been neglected — scarcely noticed — that is to deep- 
en the bar of the Mississippi. At the first glance 
of such a proposal, it would appear a very imprac- 
ticable design, but I measured the passes and 
sounded all the bars of the outlet of that mighty 
streaiTi in 1813, and the following observations are 
founded on that measurement. Besides three or 
four of little consequence, the Mississippi has four 
main passes or outlets ; these are, the west pass 
with about eight feet water ; the south-west pass 
with twelve feet water ; south pass with eight feet, 
and the south-east, or main pass with twelve feet 
water. These depths are given at ordinary tides. 



468 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

It may, however, be observed, that the tides in the 
gulf of Mexico are small, not exceeding, if uninflu- 
enced by winds, two and a half feet. 

Within the bars, and in all its course, the Missis- 
sippi is a very narrow stream in proportion to its 
depth. As high as Donaldsonville, at the outlet of 
La Fourche, near 80 miles above New Orleans, the 
mid channel, at the lowest stage, is upwards of 100 
feet in depth. This great depth gradually lessens 
to about seventy feet before New Orleans, but 
maintains soundings of upwards of thirty feet until 
within one milp from the main bar. The influence 
also, of the great interior inundation, is less aud les^ 
apparent approaching the outlets, where the dif- 
ference of rise and fall from the latter cause is very 
trivial. 

TThe surface of the land between the passes is as 
level as that of the ocean, rising only above low, and 
covered by high tides, The soil, an alluvial ad- 
mixture of sand and bhie mud ; forming, neverthe- 
less, an extremely tenacious clay. The common 
idea that the component clay of the Mississippi 
yields easily to the action of water, is very unfound- 
ed in fact ; on the contrary, few earths sustain aque- 
ous action so powerfully. The current also of the 
river has entirely ceased before reaching the bars. 

I have made these preliminary remarks, in order 
to prepare the reader for what is to follow. I made 
the survey already rnentioned, by oi^der of General 
James Wilkinson, and one object of the work was. 
to ascertain whether a battery could be erected^ 
from which point blank shot could be thrown into 
the main pass. The performance of the task con- 
vinced me fully of the practicability, utility and ne- 
cessity of a double work ; a work which Ayould en- 
able the government of the United States to deepen 
the channel and defend its entrance. Though ad- 
parently so very difficult, the buildings at Kronstadl 
at the mouth of the Neva, the Eddy stone Lighthouse, 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 469 

and many more, were still more difficult, danger- 
ous and expensive in their execution. 

No soil could be possibly found better adapted to 
the sinking and retention of piles. Quick-sand, 
there is none, nor rock to arrest the point of the 
piles. It would, consequently, be very easy compa- 
ratively to commence where the water was at any 
given depth, and drive a double column of piles, 
leaving an intermediate space for a channel of any 
desirable width, and afterwards dredge the mud 
into the gulf. To shew the ease with which the 
dredging part could be performed, it is only neces- 
sary to state one fact. On either of the two great 
passes, when you have the depth of twelve, it is up- 
wards of thirty feet in one, and upwards of fifty feet 
in two cables length. 

Like all original projects, ridicule will no doubt 
be the first reward of a design to deepen the chan- 
nel of our greatest river, but convinced I am, that 
ships of any draught will, long before fifty years, be 
navigated to and from New Orleans, 

With such an improvement in our inland naviga- 
tion, even the canal over the isthmus of Delaware 
and Chesapeake cannot be compared. Geographi- 
cally, the Mississippi basin extends from N, lat. 29^ 
to 51°, and from 26' to 36° west from Wash- 
ington City, forming an immense navigable triangle. 
The base of this vast figure from the sources of the 
Allegany to those of Maria's river, 1700 miles ; 
from the sources of Maria's river to the mouth of 
the Mississippi itself, 1600 miles ; and 1600 miles 
from the mouth of the Mississippi to the sources of 
the Alleghany. Such, however, is the irregularity 
of its outline, from entering at salient angles, that 
it is only from the rhumbs on a good maj), that its 
area can be estimated with any approximation to ex- 
actness. Measured in this manner the basin of the 
Mississippi amounts to 1,341,649 square miles. Of 
such an extent, the two vallies of Ohio, and of Mis- 
E r 



4/0 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

sissippi proper, contain 400,000 square miles, of a 
most productive soil, on which population is advan- 
cing with unprecedented rapidity. 

It is to be hoped that the people and the govern- 
ment of the United States will turn their attention 
to a subject of improvement involving so few local, 
but embracing universal interest, really not confined 
to the United States, but influencing less or more, 
the whole commercial world. The Mississippi is, 
in fact, the most important stream in the northern 
temperate zone of the earth, both in respect to soil 
and superficies, and when peopled, as it will be, by 
a most active, enterprising and free people, must, 
within the current century, sustain the greatest phy- 
sical and moral force ever united on a single river. 

Many and most unfounded errors prevail respect- 
ing the natural history of this mighty river, but none 
so much calculated to produce undue influence upon 
the projected improvement, than its having fre- 
quently deserted its bed. To remove that, and 
many other misconceptions on the physical features 
of that world of waters, we now proceed to a brief 
sketch of the Delta, laying it down as a postulate : 
That the Mississififii can no more desert its bed, than 
can the Susquehanna, Delaware, Hudson, t:fc. 

The facts of the Mississippi overflowing its banks 
at extreme high water, and in having outlets so far 
as that of the Atchafalaya from the ultimate recipi- 
ent, have led to the erroneous opinion, that the main 
volume could desert its bed. The general depth of 
the Mississippi I have given, and have also observed 
that the depth very gradually lessens below La 
Fourche ; but the depth given, was that of the water 
itself at the lowest stage, and not that of the river's 
bed below the high bank. At Bringier's, fourteen 
miles below the La Fourche, and one hundred and 
eighty miles above the main pass, the bed of the 
Mississippi was carefully measured by Mr. Louis 
Bringicr and myself, and found to be one hundred 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 471 

and thirty one english feet. The particular place 
where exists the greatest depth of this vast volume, 
has, I believe, never been determined ; but above 
the mouth of Red river it lessens, and at Natchez 
is about seventy or eighty feet. The width, even as 
high as the junction of the Mississippi and Missouri, 
to the divergence of the passes, about eight miles 
above the main or south-east pass, where not swel- 
led by islands, is in a remarkable degree uniform, 
not varying sensibly from half an English mile. 

Meliorating a natural but obstructed water course 
by removing impediments, is as necessary and as 
meritorious as opening a new channel. 

There are few phenomena in nature more curious, 
or perhaps more misunderstood, than the obstruc- 
tions called rafts, in the Red and Atchafalaya, and 
being designated by one term, are generally consid- 
ered as specifically the same in both streams, which 
as we shall soon perceive is far from being a fact. 
When on the subject of the Mississippi, the At- 
chafalaya as an outlet, was noticed and discuss- 
ed, but we now proceed to examine it as a con- 
tinuation of Red river. 

Red river is the true North American Nile, rising 
in New Mexico, at N. lat. 35° and Ion. 27° W. from 
Washington city, augmented by numerous branches 
and flowing in very nearly an easterly direction, 300 
miles to the 100th degree W. from the Royal Ob- 
servatory at Greenwich, and 23 deg. 4 m. W. from 
Washington City, continuing east 400 miles, and 
forming a boundary between the United States and 
Texas. Red river enters Arkansas, and curving to 
the S. E. a few miles, and thence south, enters Lou- 
isiana, over which it winds by a general course of 
S. E., 200, but by a very winding channel of up- 
wards of 300 miles. 

Red river enters Louisiana near the north west 
angle of that state, by a single stream, but about 30 
miles lower breaks into numerous branches, pre- 



472 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

sehting a most intricate maze of islands, inlets^ chan- 
nels, and lakes of every size, from one to thirty 
miles in length. This annually inmidated tract lies 
in a direction of north west and south east, extend- 
ing 60 miles, with a mean width of eight miles. As- 
cending, this raft region, as it is absurdly called, 
commences at Grand Ecor, 4 miles above Natchi- 
toches, and has every appearance of having once 
been a lake, which has been gradually filled by allu- 
vion, and what is peculiarly worthy of remark is, 
that as the ancient lake was disappearing, the earth 
by which it was obliterated, operated to form dams 
across the mouths of the small tributary rivers on 
each side, and by that means create new lakes. In 
this manner was formed, lake Bastineau, 40 miles 
long, and from one to three wide ; lake Bodeau 30 
miles long, and from one to tfen miles wide ; two 
large lakes in the vicinity of the Cado village, Span- 
ish lake in the vicinity of Natchitoches, and many 
more. These new lakes, and the remains of the 
still greater and more ancient lake, have a most 
powerful effect in checking the excess, but at the 
same time lengthens the duration, of the floods of 
Red river. This great tributary of the Delta, rath- 
er than of the Mississippi, is a much greater stream 
than is commonly believed. Having a comparative 
course of upwards of one thousand miles, and drain- 
ing at least 150,000 square miles. Red river bears 
into Louisiana an immense body of water. The 
spring periodical overflow of this river, is usually in 
the months of February, March and April, but flow- 
ing from a southern and in a great part a prairie 
country, the evaporation of summer and autumn re- 
duces its volume to a very small compass. At the 
latter period, the lakes and low grounds in a great 
part drain out, or their waters are evaporated, and 
in October and November immense spaces, which 
in February, March and April, were inundated from 
one to twenty feet, become meadows covered with a 
carpet of green and succulent herbage. 



OF THE UNITED STATES, 473 

Thirty miles above its influx into tlie Mississippi, 
Red river receives its north-eastern and largest 
branch, the Ouachita. The latter rises between 
Red and Arkansas rivers, long. W. from W. C. 17°, 
and at N. lat. 34° 40'; flowing thence a little east 
of south 300 miles, but by a very tortuous channel, 
joins Red river. The general features of Ouachita, 
are very similar to the main stream, and in particu- 
lar those of the lakes and adjacent swamps, which 
near the Ouachita are at like seasons filled and 
emptied, and along both rivers operate as real re- 
servoirs. 

The great inundated tract above Natchitoches, is 
not rendered difficult of navigation by rafts of tim- 
ber, for few such do really exist in these " thousand 
streams," but from the very great intricacy of the 
channels. I had a very large pirogue constructed 
in a creek of Lake Bistineau, with which we navi- 
gated into and above Lake Bodeau, and with which 
I returned by Red river, by one of its outlets below 
Alexandria at the Rapids, and down Boeuf river to 
Lemelles landing near St. Landre Opelousas. At 
high water, barges of large tonnage are navigated 
through the Raft, and for several hundred miles 
above, into the recesses of Arkansas and Texas. 

At the Grand Ecor above Natchitoches, and at 
the latter village. Red river once more breaks into 
separate channels, which never again entirely re- 
unite. The main stream, however, falls over its low- 
er rapid at Alexandria, and flowing thence by a 
channel more winding, if possible, than that of the 
Mississippi itself, the two rivers touch rather than 
unite, one and a half miles above the efflux of the 
Atchafalaya, at N. lat. 31° 1'. A moment's atten- 
tion to the relative courses of Red and Atchafalaya 
rivers, renders the conclusion inevitable, that the 
latter is the continuation of the former. The banks 
of the two streams have a perfect resemblance to 
each other, and particularly in the colour of the 
Rr 2 



474 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

ochreous earth of which they are composed, and 
from which Red river derives its name. This red- 
dish earth, prevalent along the Boeuf and Tcche, 
demonstrates also the extensive agency once exer- 
cised by the waters of Red river, in places which 
they no longer reach. 

It has been noticed, that the current of the 
Mississippi, was thrown from the points into the 
bends, and it must be evident that with the cur- 
rent, will floating timber be in like manner borne 
along the shores at the bottom of the bends. — ■ 
Though only distant from each other 2508 yards, 
or not quite half a mile, a very salient point 
from the left shore protrudes into the Mississippi, 
between the mouth of Red river and the efflux of 
Atchafalaya. Red river comes in from the north; 
the Mississippi meets it from the east, and the uni- 
ted waters rapidly sv>^eep to the southward, and 
south-eastward, throw out the Atchafalaya to the 
south-west, and thence assume an eastern course of 
5 or 6 miles, forming a very narrow and pointed pe- 
ninsula on the eastern side of the Mississippi. 

When the spring floods are at their height, an 
enormous body of water pours into Atchafalaj^a, 
with overwhelming rapidity. The winding of the 
bend above, as I have already noticed, forces the 
current, and with it every floating substance it 
bears, directly into the Atchafalaya, down which the 
debris is carried in masses which would stagger hu- 
man belief to admit as possible. In about 1774, as 
near as I could obtain correct information in Louis- 
iana, a body of floating timber, large and compact 
enough to fill the channel of Atchafalaya, lodged 
in one of the very crooked bends of that stream. 
The first raft was quickly augmented by new acces- 
sions, and now for upwards of fifty years, has been 
annually supplied, and has entirely prevented the 
navigation of the Iloogly of Louisiana. The raft I 
^.m now noticing, is really such in the proper mean- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 475 

ing of tlie term ; it is composed of trees lying in 
every direction, lodged and interlaced from bank to 
bank, and rising and falling with the water; but, at 
every stage of flood, completely gorging the chan- 
nel from bank to bank. There are a few spots along 
the Atchafalaya shores, which are above annual 
submersion, and the immediate banks are every 
where more elevated than the adjacent country on 
both sides; but in general, the course of this outlet 
above and below the Teche, is through one vast an- 
nually submerged tract; a tract covered with a most 
dense forest, except where chequered with lakes, or 
lined by rivers. Though of very little consequence 
as a habitable surface, hov/evcr, the Atchafalaya, if 
rendered navigable, would be of incalculable advan-^ 
tage, not alone to Opclousas and Attacapas, but to 
all Louisiana and the western states generally. To 
speak of nothing else, the immense stores of timber, 
particularly the invaluable cypress, which abound 
along and near its banks, nov/ locked from hu- 
man use, must continue so until the removal of the 
impediment it places in the way of navigation, and 
some preventive against its recurrence is effected. 
Opening the Atchafalaya would be to open the 
Courtableau, Teche, and Vermillion. The unequal- 
led advantages which might, with moderate expend- 
iture, be taken of the peculiar natural features of 
these latter streams, I have discussed; but there is 
another consideration of great weight, which should 
meet the attention of the people of Louisiana, and 
of the general government; that is, the increased 
value of landed property in the vicinity Avhich 
would be the certain consequence of opening the 
Atchafalaya. 

The raft or rather rafts, when I surveyed the At- 
chafalaya in 1808 and 1809, began at 26 miles from 
the outlet of that river, and continued downwards in 
broken fragments below the mouth of the Courta- 
bleau, These fragments arc far from stationary; 



476 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

I witnessed breaches and removal several times, 
and am convinced that if acquisitions were prevent- 
ed, time itself would remove the obstruction. The 
entrance of timber from the Mississippi can be easi- 
ly prevented, and art ought to proceed in advance 
of time in abstracting a nuisance, which if removed, 
ample remuneration would be as certain as the ope- 
ration of the laws of nature. Taken together, the 
whole of the rafts extend about 10 miles, rising and 
falling, as already observed, with the water. — Ten 
miles is 17,600 yards; the mean width very near 
220, with a depth of 3 yards. These elements would 
give 17,600X220x3=11,616,000 cubic yards, very 
nearly equal 2,450,632 cubic cords. 

In the first instance, to prevent the future dis- 
charge of floating timber into the Atchafalaya, 
piles could be driven into the bed of that river at 
its efflux, and a lock constructed to admit the pas- 
sage of boats and rafts. In fact, turning the float- 
ing trees down the Mississippi, would be itself no 
trifling advantage. The inhabitants along the banks 
of that river, advancing towards New Orleans, very 
carefully collect the timber found upon the stream, 
and use it as fuel. 

In respect to removing the masses already accu- 
niulated in the Atchafalaya, it has been shewn to 
rise and fall with the water; one consequence of 
which circumstance is, that when the river in au- 
tumn is very low, the rafts extend from high bank 
to high bank, in the form of a semi-ellipse; large 
bodies near the shores being then left dry, could in 
great part be consumed by fire. The residue might 
be removed by means of cranes, the labour, as a mat- 
ter of course, becoming constantly less burthensome, 
as the incumbent body would be rendered less and 
less compact. 

There have been many extremely idle tales re- 
lated, and as idly believed, respecting the Atchafa- 
laya rafts. I ]\:i\e heard it asserted even at Ope- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 47f 

lousas, within from 15 to 20 miles of the plaee, that 
the timber Avas in many places so compact as to have 
assumed, with mud and trees, the appearance of 
solid land, and that it could be passed without know- 
ing a river flowed beneath. I have carefully sur- 
veyed the rafts in all their length, and have passed 
over them in numerous places. By taking a cir- 
cuitous route from tree to tree, and by exposing 
ourselves to considerable danger, and much severe 
labour, they can be passed; but I saw no one place 
where the passage could be made without traversing 
at least twice the direct distance from bank to bank. 
At very high water, indeed, the act of crossing these 
rafts must be either one of great urgency or of still 
greater rashness; it was an enterprise I never un- 
dertook except from necessity. 

Detail on the subject of meliorating the navigable 
facilities of Louisiana might be enlarged to a vo- 
lume, but the brevity of this view sets an impas- 
sable limit to a farther investigation of that topic at 
present, and I close with a few observations on one 
of the most important problems in the physical geo- 
graphy of the United States. The question has been 
discussed for ages, how to obviate or lessen the 
quantum of overflow in rivers having their estua- 
ries by extensive alluvial deltas. The necessary 
elements for the solution of this problem, have been 
collected with most care, and digested with most 
skill, in the examples of the Rhine and Po, and more 
particularly the latter. 

M. de Progny, sent to Italy by Napoleon, to exa- 
mine the Po, recommended artificial drains, in pre- 
ference to embankments; but the Italian engineers 
doubted the practical efficacy of drains, and though, 
as applied to the Mississippi^ I formerly adopted 
the opinion of M. de Progny, I have, on examining 
the reasons given by Italian engineers, harboured 
doubts. These doubts arise from the fact, that the 
overflow is occasioned by the incumbent mass from 



478 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

above; and that opening new or enlarging old chan- 
nels below, only tend to augment the pressure and 
increase the velocity of the current. These effects 
arise from the unerring laws of hydrostatics; but 
although all the benefits promised by M. de Progny 
could not be realized, it by no means follows that 
manifest and great advantages would not follow from 
increasing the depth and width of the natural, or 
where practicable, making new outlets from the 
Mississippi. 

The Atchafalaya is 110 yards wide, and leaves 
the Mississippi by an inclined plane of considerable 
declivity. This rapid descent gives a strong current 
for 4 or 5 miles; it would not be a very great un- 
dertaking to pile the shores and deepen the channel 
so as to admit a much larger volume from the Mis- 
sissippi, and admit that volume to flow for a much 
longer period than does the present natural outlet; 
but unless the new discharge was so regulated as to 
confine the mass to as small or even a less body in a 
given time, the most ruinous consequences would 
ensue to the arable borders of the left bank of the 
Teche, by throwing an increased annual inundation 
into the basin of Atchafalaya. 

Similar objections may be urged against any other 
drain, unless mitigated in quantity in a given period, 
and lengthened in time. With these restrictions, 
if the channels of any or all the outlets were deep- 
ened, water would of course enter from the main 
stream sooner, and continue to flow longer, in direct 
proportion to depth. 

On a former occasion, I laid down the following 
laws as regulating the motion of water. Water 
moves with equal velocity, in equal times, on equally 
inclined planes, at equal depths. 

The plane of descent, except immediately at the 
points of outlet, being in every part of Louisiana, 
very little inclined, causes the water to accumulate 
in the recesses distant from the streams, and to en- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 479 

croach en the farms in every case where the supply- 
is unusually abundant. It is these local features 
and the laws by which water either moves or stands 
stagnant, which render the occurrence of a breach 
in the levees or embankments to the Mississippi and 
its outlets, so serious a calamity to the inhabitants 
where they take place. These breaches or cre- 
vasses, demonstrate the effect of abstracting water 
from the rivers, and ought to deter from any at- 
tempt at artificial drainage unless the quantum can 
be fully controlled and a recipient provided. 

In any case of constructing or increasing natural 
drains, it must be evident from the principles laid 
down in this paper, that the higher they are formed 
above the final discharge, the more effective; but in 
respect to the Mississippi, the Atchafalaya is the 
highest point where any practicable design of that 
kind could be carried into effect. On the east side 
it is only 14 miles in measure to the high lands be- 
low Loftus Heights; and on the western, a chain of 
Avater courses extend towards Avoyelles, with banks 
as elevated as the highest overflow, and protruded 
to the bank of Atchafalaya, 5 miles below its outlets 
by the Bayou de Glaize. Therefore, all the water 
discharged by the Mississippi, and most of that of 
Red river above, is forced into the space between 
the eastern bluffs, near Loftus Heights, and the 
mouth of Bayou de Glaize; three-fourths of the in- 
termediate distance, 20 miles, being occupied by 
one of those long curving bends of the Mississippi. 

From the diversified climates from which the pe- 
riodical floods of the Delta are supplied, the entire 
body can never reach Louisiana at the same period, 
and thus nature has protected that country from sub- 
mersion, at the opening of every spring; and well 
it is, that those fertile plains are thus defended, as 
it certainly admits of very well founded doubt whe- 
ther human power can do much more than has al- 
ready been done by embankment, to control the 



j480 rOLlTICAL GEOGKAPHY 

overwhelming volume of water which annually tra- 
verses Louisiana. As navigable channels, never- 
theless, the human hand can effect the most lasting 
and invaluable revolutions, and in this age when 
the accomplishment of one great design is taken as 
an incentive to undertake, and a demonstration of 
the practicability of executing other plans still more 
magnificent, the rivers of Louisiana will not, can- 
not be neglected. Another half century will not 
pass until ships of the line of the largest class will 
anchor before New Orleans, and steam vessels pass 
where entangled masses of timber now secure the 
reign of desolation along the brinks of Atchafalaya. 
Nor will another fifty years pass, until steam will 
be employed to render habitable by drainage, im- 
mense tracts along the Atlantic coast, and shores of 
the Mexican Gulf, which are at present abandoned 
to stagnation and neglect. 

As many persons who may read this View, it is 
probable will not possess means of comparison be- 
tween the expense and utility of canals, I have 
subjoined a table which affords the ir^ost encourag- 
iTigdata, 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



481 



Canal Stocks in England. 
We have met, in a late number of Niles' Register, 
with the following table, showing the value of canal 
stocks in England. It is extracted by the Register 
from the Trade List of the 11th March last. The 
Trade List, it is said, is published weekly by an as- 
sistant clerk of the bills of entry of the British cus- 
toms, and may be deemed to have an official sanc^ 
tion. 





%9 


2,:? 


^'n 


o 9. 


O 


!z; 


^ 


Names of Ca- 




II 




U 

CD 


gi 


p 

o 


^ 
3 


nals. 


£ o 


9^ 


5' 2, 

CSJ p- 


9 o 

3 




3- 
P 


O 
O 

g 




I 


I. 


L 


/. S. 


/. 




I. s. 


Barnesley 


160 


300 




13 




5720 




Birmingham 


m 


203 


565 


12 10 


20 


4000 




Carlisle 


50 


490 








1600 


21 10 


Chesterfield 


100 


150 


120 


8 


8 


1500 




Coventry 


100 


1200 


999 


44 


44 


500 




Cromford 


100 


400 




19 




460 




Derby 


100 


150 




710 




600 


110 


Erwash 


100 


1400 


1000 


72 


58 


231 




Forth and 
















Clyde 


100 


570 




25 




1207 


406 16 


Glamorgan- 
















shire 


100 


250 




13 12 




600 


172 13 


Grand Junc- 
















tion 


100 


307 


218 


13 


9 


11600 




Grantham 


150 


215 




9 




749 


150 


Leeds and Li- 
















verpool 


100 


395 


278 


16 


10 


2897 




Leicester 


100 


325 


260 


17 


10 


540 


140 


Loughboro' 


100 


4000 


2400 


200 


119 


70 


142 17 


Milton Mow- 
















bray 


100 


240 


170 


11 


8A 


250 




Mersey Sc Er- 
















well 


100 


825 


650 


35 


30 


500 





482 



POLITICAL GEOGKAPHY 



TABLE CONTINUED. 



Names of Ca 
nals. 


2.S 
If 


H 


2-T 

fP (D 




< 

>-^ a. 

CX)fi) 

pa 


!25 
p 

o 

S9 


> 

< 

fD 






S 2 


Pi 


?o 


B 


to 


1 




I. 


/. 


/. 


L s. 


I. 




L s. 


Monmouth- 
















shire 


100 


225 




10 




2409 


100 


Neath 


100 


350 




15 




S4r 


107 10 


Nottingham 


150 


290 




12 




500 




Oxford 


100 


670 


640 


32 


32 


1786 




Shrewsbury 


125 


210 




10 




500 




Shropshire 


125 


135 




7 




500 




Somerset coal 


50 


iro 




10 




800 




Stafford and 
















Worcester 


140 


800 


642 


40 


40 


700 


140 


Stourbridge 


145 


220 




12 




300 


* 


Stroudwater 


150 


450 




23 




200 




Swansea 


100 


280 




12 10 




533 




Trent & Mer- 
















sey 


100 


820 


900 


srio 


75 


1300 




Warwick and 
















Birmingham 


100 


265 


210 


12 


11 


1000 




Warwick and 
















Napton 


100 


205 


235 


12 


10 


930 




Wyrley & Es- 














sington J 


125 


160 




6 


800 





At a time wlien the subject of canals engages so 
much of the public attention in this country, the 
foregoing statement cannot but be interesting and 
encouraging. The value of canal stock, wherever 
the work may be, must depend on the tolls that 
they are allowed to charge, and on their having full 
employment. The canals which are constructing 
have aright to exact as high tolls, we are informed. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 483 

as are taken on the English canals; and there 
seems to be no doubt that the inexhaustible body 
of coal with which most of our canals are con- 
nected, and the great supply of that article which 
is required, for the transportation of coal alone, 
independent of other articles, will afford the canals 
full employment. Why then should not our canals 
be as valuable as those of Great Britain? — one of 
which, the Loughborough, it will be seen by the 
above table, is at four thousand per cent, and has 
risen sixteen hundred per cent, within the last six 
years. 

In closing this much too brief notice of inland na- 
vigation in the United States, I cannot avoid ob- 
serving, that history affords no other example of 
works on roads and canals being carried on to such 
extent as is done at this moment in the United 
States and Canada. Let such spirit prevail for one 
century, and what a decorated garden will North 
America present. 



484 



CHAPTER XII. 

INDIVIDUAL STATES AND TERRITORIES OF THE 
UNITED STATES. 

The reader will observe, that the chief town annexed 
to each county, is at once the seat of justice and princi- 
pal post office for that county. 

[The italic letters annexed to counties, shew their situ- 
ation in the state to wliich they respectively belong* : e, 
w, n, s, and m, eastward, westward, northward, south- 
ward, and middle. ] 

Many arbitrary subdivisions have been attempted, 
with a view to simplify the engrouping of the United 
States, but have appeared to me in every instance pro- 
ductive of confusion. The artificial lines of the poHtical 
subdivisions, are drawn with so little regard to natui'al 
features, that all relative classification into eastern, wes- 
tern, southern or central states, superinduce so many 
exceptions, as to render the rule worse than dubious. 
In the subsequent specific description, I have adopted 
the alphabetic mode, as easy of reference and as obvi- 
ating all attempts at an arrangement which I have shewn 
to be impracticable, so as to answer any useful purpose. 



i\LABAMA. 

Boundaries, extern and position, — S. by Florida ; S. 
W. by the Gulf of Mexico ; W. by the state of Missis- 
sippi ; N. by Tennessee, and E. by Georgia. 

The limits of Alabama are: 

Miles. 
Beginning on the Gulf of Mexico, between the 
mouths of Mobile and Pascagoula rivers, and 
thence northerly along the state of Mississippi, 320 



OF THE UNITKD STATES. 485 

To Tennessee river, thence down that stream, 10 

To the southern boundary of Tennessee, thence 

due east along- I'ennessee, 153 

To the N. W. angle of Georgia, thence along the 

western boundary of Georgia,* 146 

To the Chatahooche river, thence down that 

stream to N. lat. 31°, by comparative courses, 160 
To Perdido river, 150 

Thence down the latter to its entrance into the 

Gulf of Mexico, 60 

Westward along the Gulf of Mexico, 60 

1059 
Area 51,770 square miles, 33,132,800 statute acres. 
Mean length 336; mean breadth from E. to W. 195 miles. 
Lying between lat. 30° 10' and 35° N., and between long. 
80'* 05' and 11° 30' W. Seat of Government, Tusca- 
loosa, N. lat. 33° 13', W. Ion. 10° 41'. 

JVatural Geography. Alabama is naturally divided 
into three very distinct zones ; the northern traversed 
by the main volume, and drained by numerous small 
rivers flowing into Tennessee, may be considered if 
not mountainous, at least very broken, and most pleas- 
antly diversified. The middle or central zone, drained 
by the various branches of Coosa, Cahawba, Tuscaloosa 
and Tombigbee rivers, gradually assumes a more level 
surface and in general a very inferior soil to the nor- 
thern section on Tennessee. The southern or Pine 
region is still less broken by hills than the central, and 
contracted by the western projection of Florida, to a 
strip of 60 miles wide, along Mobile bay, terminates in 
the sandy alluvion of the Mexican Gulf. 

* The line of demarcation separating Alabama and 
Georgia, between the south line of Tennessee and Cha- 
tahooche river, is unsettled ; the point of outset from 
the Chatahooche, being in dispute between the two 
states concerned ; Alabama claiming Fort Mitchel, and 
Georgia the most western bend of Chatahooche, as the 
point of outset. The line mentioned in the text, is that 
recently extended by Georgia, and measures 145| miles, 
s s 2 



486 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Extending over almost 5 degrees of latitude, and ri- 
sing from the level of the sea on the south, to consider- 
able elevation, perhaps 1000 feet north, this state ex- 
hibits a marked difference of temperature. It touches 
rather than enters the region of sugar cane, but admits 
in all its extent of the profitable cultivation of cotton. 
Fruits, from the fig to the apple, flourish abundantly, 
but even the southern section does not admit the suc- 
cessful production of the orange. Small grain is culti- 
vated, though maize predominates as a crop. Cotton 
is tlie staple of the state, but might be superseded by 
tobacco or indigo, perhaps by other vegetables. 

Alabama has been too recently settled by civilized 
population, to admit the full development of metallic 
wealth, nor, except iron, do the known specimens of 
ores promise great fossil abundance. 

The climate is mild, indeed might be with safety call- 
ed delightful. Much of the soil is fertile, none utterly 
barren. In navigable rivers, this state possesses great 
commercial advantages, though comprising only one di- 
rect outlet to the sea. Besides many of less note, Ala- 
bama is watered by Tennessee, Tombigbee, Tuscaloosa, 
Alabama, Cahavvba, Coosa, Talapoosa and Conecuh riv- 
ers. 

Politically this state is divided into the following 
counties. 

Counties. 
Autauga, m. 
Baldwin, s. tv. 
Bibb, m. 
Blount, m. n. 
Butler, s. 
Clark, s. iv. 
Conecuh, s. 
Covington, s. 
iJale, vf. e. 
Dallas, m. 
Decatur, 7?j. 
Fayette, m. n. 
Franklin, n. iu. 
Green, w. 



Chief Toxvns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Washington 


JODO 


Blakely 


1713 


Centreville 


3676 


Blountsville 


2415 


Greenville 


1405 


Clarksville 


5839 


Sparta 


5713 


Montezuma 




Richmond 




Cahawba 


6003 


Woodville 




Fayette 




llussellvillc 


4554 


Erie 


4988 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



48T 



Henrj', s. e. 


Columbia 


2638 


Jackson, n. tu. 


Bellefonte 


8751 


Jefferson, tv. n. 


Elyton 




Lauderdale, n. -w. 


Florence 


4963 


Lawrence, n. iv. 


Moulton 




Limestone, n. 


Athens 


9871 


Madison, n. 


Huntsville 


17481 


Marengo, xv, s. 


Lynden 


2933 


Marion, iv. n. 


Pikeville 




Mobile, s. iv. 


Mobile 


2762 


Monroe, s. w. 


Claiborne 


8838 


Montgomery, w. ^ 


J, Montgomery 


6604 


Morgan, n. 


Somerville 


5263 


Perry, m. 


Marion 




Pickens, tv. 


Pickens 




Pike, e. s. 


Liberty 




St. Clair, w. n. 


Ashville 


4166 


Shelby, tv. 


Montevallo 


2416 


Tuscaloosa, m, w. 


Tuscaloosa 


8229 


Walker, m. 


Walker C. H. 




Washington, tv. s. 


St. Stephens 




Wilcox, 7n. s. 


Canton 


2917 


The census of Alabama by the Marshall's return, was 


so very defective. 


that by subsequent 


information laid 


before Congress, 


a deficit of upwards 


5 of 16,000 was 


shewn ? consequently the state in 1820 


actually contain- 


ed 143,000 inhabitants. The number at tills epoch. 


1820, no doubt exceeds 250,000. 





ARKANSAS TERRITORY. 
Boundaries, extent and fiosiiion. — This extensive 
region is bounded by the state of Missouri N., the 
Mississippi river E., Louisiana S., Texas S. W. and 
W., and the western territory of the United States 
N. W. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the right bank of the Mississippi 
river at N. lat. 36^*^ opposite the N. W. an- 
gle of Tennessee, thence down the Mississip- 
pi river, opposite Tennessee, by comparative 
courses, 170 



488 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Continuing down the Mississippi, opposite the 
state of Mississippi to the Nortiiern boundary 
of Louisiana, on N. lat. 33°. 190 

Thence due west along northern boundary of 

Louisiana, 170 

From the N. W. angle of Louisiana to the S. 
W. angle of Missouri, the limits of Arkan- 
sas, as laid down on our maps, follow and 
form the boundary between the United States 
and Texas, to Ion. 100° W. of Greenwich, 
thence due N. to N. lat. 36^°, and thence 
due east to the S. W. angle of Missouri, the 
three latter courses taken together, about 800 
Thence continuing due E- to the right bank of 
St. Francis river, and along S. boundary of 
Missouri, 266 

Down St. Francis to N. lat. 36° 50 

Thence E. to the place of beginning, 34 

Having an entire outline of 1320 

Extending geographically, from N. lat. 33° to N. 
lat. 36^°, and in Ion. from 12° 44' to 23° 05' W. 

Greatest length from the Mississippi river along 
lat. 36°, 550 miles; mean breadth 220 j area 121,- 
340 square miles. 

Ai'atural Geografihy. — Arkansas is naturally di- 
vided into three sections ; the eastern or alluvial, 
towards the Mississippi river ; the central or moun- 
tainous, broken by the Maserne system ; and the 
western or prairie. The eastern or alluvial section 
derives its name rather than character, from the 
alluvion of the Mississippi. Proceeding westward 
from that stream, an unbroken plahi covered with a 
denst forest, is succeeded by a very gradual ascent 
partially forest and partially prairie, rising into hills 
of increasing elevation, advancing westward. 

An humble, though distinct chain of mountains 
rises in Missouri, and stretching southwest over 
Arkansas, terminates in Texas, towards the Rio 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 489 

del Norte. This chain is the Osark of Major 
Long, and the Maserne of Darby's Louisiana. Both 
terms are conniptions; Ozark is the provincial vul- 
garism for Arkansas, and Maserne is Mount Cerne 
disguised. 

The western interior and prairie section of Arkan- 
sas, as extensive if not more so than both the pre- 
ceding, is properly the commencement of that ocean 
of grass which spreads from the forests of the Mis- 
sissippi to the summits of the Chippewayan. From 
these grassy plains issue those numerous confluents 
which by their union, form the great volume of the 
Arkansas. The Canadian river itself, a consider- 
ble stream, formed by three branches, unites with 
the Arkansas proper at the western foot of the 
Maserne mountains, and together forms the second 
largest constituent branch of the Mississippi. 
Breaking through the opposing mountains, the Ar- 
kansas rolls its now |accumulated mass towards the 
Mississippi, but in a comparative course of 300 miles 
receives no farther accession of water beyond the 
size of a large creek. 

White and St. Francis rivers rise in Missouri, 
and flowing southward, enter Arkansas, which they 
traverse in a nearly parallel direction, about 50 miles 
asunder, the former joining its recipient but a few 
miles above the mouth of the latter. 

Washita river rises in southern Arkansas 
amid the rugged vallies of the Maserne, and drain- 
ing the angle between Red, Arkansas and Mississip- 
pi, assumes a southern course and enters Louisiana. 

Red river forming for upwards of 400 miles the 
southwestern boundary of Arkansas, like the Wash- 
ita enters Louisiana, and opens central Arkansas 
to a direct communication with New Orleans. 

The general features of this extensive region are 
too defectively explored to admit minute notice, 
much less detailed description. The Maserne tract 
is supposed to be in a high degree prolific in miner- 



490 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

al treasures, in fact the lower lead mines of Mis- 
souri, at and around Potosi, belong to this region. 
Muriate of Soda (common salt,) so much abounds in 
the western plains, as to render impotable the wa- 
ters of Arkansas. 

Political features. — That part of Arkansas yet 
organised into counties, extends over about 70,000 
square miles, stretching from the Mississippi river 
between Louisiana and Missouri. The settlements 
yet made are principally on the streams, and in 
great part on Arkansas and White rivers. The 
seat of government is at Little Rock on the right 
bank of Arkansas, at N. lat. 34° 43', Ion. 15° 15' 
W. and by comparative courses about 120 miles 
above the discharge of that stream into the Missis- 
sippi. 

For political purposes, Arkansas is subdivided 
mto the following counties : 

Counties. Chief To-wns, Pop. 1820. 

Arkansas, s. e. Arkansas 1260 

Chicot, s.e. Villemont 

Clark, yn. s. Clark C. H. 1040 

Conway, m. e. Marion 

Crawford, m. Crawford C. H. 

Crittenden, e. ?i. Greenock 

Hampstead, s. Washington 2248 

Independence, n. e. Batesville 

Izard, n. Izard C. H. 

Lafayette, s. Lost Prairie 

Laurence, n. e. Davidson ville 5602 

Lovely, m. ?i. Nicksville 

Miller, s. on Red riv. Miller C. H. 999 

Philips, e. on St. Fran. Helena 1201 

Puslaske, ii. e. Little Rock 1923 



Total 14,273 

Of the preceding aggregate, 12,579 were Avhites ; 
59 free coloured 3 1618 slaves j all others 18. Sup- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 491 

posed increase since 1820, at 5 per cent per annum, 
1821—14,986 1825— -18,227 

1822—15,736 1826—19,137 

1823—16,523 1827—20,095 

1824—17,360 1828—21,100 

The real existing population, however, no doubt 
considerably exceeds the result of this estimate. 

History. — Arkansas was discovered and settled 
by the French, under the Chevalier de Tonti, as 
early as 1685. In the various transfers of territory, 
it followed the fate of other parts of Louisiana, until 
February 1819, when by a law of Congress, that 
part of Louisiana between the state of Louisiana or 
N. lat. 33°, and the southern boundary of Mis- 
souri, was erected into a separate territorial govern- 
ment, and continues such to the present epoch. 

CONNECTICUT. 

Boundaries. — Long Island sound S., New York 
W., Massachusetts N., and Rhode Island E. 

Miles. 
Having a boundary along the sound, 95 

Along New York, 80 

East along Massachusetts, 85 

Thence with Rhode Island to Long Island 

sound, 50 

Outline, * 310 

Length from E. to W. 85, mean width 60 miles, 
and area 5050 square miles, extending from 40° 59' 
to 42^ 02' N,, and in Ion. from 4° 18' to 5° 12' E. 

Natural Geografihy. — Though generally hilly 
and in part mountainous, no part of Connecticut rises 
to ^reat elevation above the level of the ocean. The 
sea border of this state is in a peculiar manner in- 
dented by fine harbors, of which New London, New 
Haven, Bridgeport and Norwich are only the prin- 
cipal. The state is drained by the Houssatonick 



492 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

and Thames, and traversed by Connecticut river. 
The face of the country is most pleasingly varied by 
hill, mountain, dale and plains, which decorated by 
cultivation, gives a seductive aspect to Connecticut. 
The narrow limits geographically, and the little 
difference of elevation of parts in Connecticut, pre- 
clude much diversity of climate, yet there is a dif- 
ference in the seasons sufficiently marked, between 
the southern border on the sound, and the interior 
towards Massachusetts, 

The productions of Connecticut, are similar to 
other of the middle Atlantic states. Grain and fruit 
abound, but objects of manufacturing industry bid 
fair to become the paramount staples of this active 
state. 

Political Geografihy.—HaYtiovd in Hartford 
county, and on the left bank of Connecticut river, is 
the capital, if not the largest city in the state, 
though four others are incorporated as cities. New 
Haven, New London, Middletown and Norwich, 
and the whole state is decorated with neat and fxou- 
rishing villages, many with the aspect of cities. 
Hartford stands near the centre of the state at N. 
lat. 41° 46', Ion. 4° 22' E. Pop. 1820, 4726. 



Counties. 


Chief Towns. 


'Pop. 1820 


Hartford, n. 


Hartford 


47,264 


Fairfield, s. w. 


Fairfield 


42,734 


Litchfield, 7i. w. 


Litchfield 


41,267 


Middlesex, s. 


Middletown 


22,401 


New Haven, s. 


New Haven 


39,616 


New London, s. e. 


New London 


35,943 


Tolland, n. 


Tolland 


14,330 


Windham, n. e. 


Brooklyn 


31,684 



Total, 275,239 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 49^ 

Classified jiofiulation in 1810. 

Free white males, 126,o7S 

do. females, 128,806 

Free coloured persons, 6,453 

Slaves, 310 



Total in 1810, 


261,942 


PoJiulatio?i in 1820. 




Free white males. 


130,807 


do, females. 


136,374 


Total whites 


267,181 


Free persons of colour, males. 


3,863 


do. females. 


4,007 


Slaves, 


97 


All other persons. 


100 



Total in 1820, 275,248 

Of these, engaged in Agriculture, 50,518 

do. Manufactures, 17,541 

do. Commerce, 3,581 

History. — First settlement 1634, by two colonies, 
Connecticut and New Haven, which were united in 
1662, under the former name. This state has in un- 
internipted prosperity followed the fate of her sister 
states, and most fortunately has few events in her 
progress to swell that volume of recorded calamity, 
human history. 

Yale College at New Haven, founded 1701, de- 
serves much better to be noticed, than those events 
usually spread over the pages of historical record. 
This seminary is of the first order, but is not the 
only establishment of learning at New Haven. A 
Theological Seminary Avas formed there in 1820. 
The Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Hartford, was the 
first institution of that species in America; it was 
founded 1817, 

T t 



494 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 

Boundaries. — S. E,, N. E., and N. W. by Mary- 
land, and W. and S. W. by Virginia. This tract 
was laid out inclining 45° from the meridians, 10 
miles each way, containing 100 square miles. 

The Capitol in Washington, and the first meri- 
dian used in this View, stands at 39° 53' 30" N. lat, 
and from the- most approved observations 76° 55' 
30'' W. of the Royal Observatory, Greenwich. 

JSTatural Geografihy. — Potomac river meets the 
Atlantic tides at Georgetown, and traverses the 
District in a direction nearly south-east, receiving a 
small but important confluent, the Eastern Branch. 
The latter, rising about 20 miles north from V^'^ash- 
ington, enters the north-east side of the District, 
dilates into a wide bay, and joining the Potomac 
forms a most spacious harbour, with adequate depth 
for the largest vessels. The City of Washington 
extends over the peninsula, between the two 
branches. 

The general surface of the District is waving ra- 
ther than hilly, with a thin sandy soil. The par- 
ticular site of Washington is in a high degree pleas- 
ing, giving by the wide sweep of the hills an idea of 
vastness to the scene. Rock creek entering from 
the north, near the north-west angle of the District, 
and entering Potomac, separates Georgetown from 
Washington. The former, seated on the point be- 
tween Rock creek and Potomac, occupies a rather 
rapid acclivity from both streams, and presents in 
its bold front a complete contrast to Washington 
and Alexandria. 

Political Geografihy. The District of Columbia, 
as it was afterwards located, was ceded to the Uni- 
ted States by Virginia and Maryland, under an ex- 
press provision of the Constitution of the United 
States. The acceptance, by act of Congress, took 
place July 16th, 1790, and' the foundation of the 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 495 

Capitol laid, in the presence of General Washington, 
September 16th, 1793. Congress first convened 
there December 1800. 

The City of Washington, inconvenient as it is in 
respect to public business, has grown with conside- 
rable rapidity, and bids fair to receive from the Po- 
tomac canal such an acceleration as to place it, in a 
brief period, amongst the great emporia of the 
United States. Its conflagration, in 1814, independ- 
ent of local advantages, has fixed the seat of the 
General Government, by exciting the just and ever- 
during indignant feelings of a brave and free people. 
The Gauls burnt Rome, and the Gauls sunk under 
and for many ages submitted to Roman power. 

Alexandria stands on the right bank of the Poto- 
mac, very nearly 7 miles south from the Capitol. It is 
laid out at right angles very nearly with the course 
of the river in front, and the streets at right angles 
to each other. 

Georgetown is similar to Alexandria, laid out at 
right angles, but the main transverse streets of the 
former conform to those of Washington. 

Population of the three cities in 1820 : 

Washington - - 13,322 
Alexandria - - - 8,218 
Georgetown - - 7,360 



Aggregate - - - 28,900 

The Columbian Institute in Washington, and the 
Roman Catholic College, or rather University, in 
Georgetown, are the only seminaries on a large 
scale in the District; both are in active operation. 

The government of the District of Columbia is a 
non-descript; it is subject to the immediate and ex- 
clusive legislation of the Federal Government, yet 
by act of Congress, February 27th, 1801, the laws 
of the two states from which it was taken remain in 



496 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

force, in the respective parts taken from each. The 
Virginia part comprises the county of Alexandria, 
and the Maryland part the county of Washington. 

Population of the different fiarts in 1820. 

Whites. Free Coloured. Slaves. Amount. 



Washington City 9607 


1696 


1944 


13,247 


Georgetown 4940 


894 


1526 


7,360 


Washington county 1512 


168 


1049 


2,729 


Alexandria 5615 


1168 


1435 


8,218 


Do. county 941 


122 


422 


1,485 



22,615 4048 6376 33,039 
Distributive Population in 1820. 

Free Whites, males - - - - 11171 

Do, females _ _ _ 11443 



22614 

Free Coloured, males - - - _ 1731 

Do. females - . _ _ 2317 

Slaves, males ----- 3007 

Do. females ----- 3370 



Total - - - . 33,039 

Of these engaged in Agriculture - 853 

Do. Manufactures - - 2184 

Do. Commerce - 512 

History, — The brief history of the District of Co- 
lumbia has been in great part anticipated, under 
the head of Political Geography, but the commence- 
ment, on July 4th, of the Chesapeake and Ohio Ca- 
nal, is too important an event to be unnoticed in a 
View, however brief. In any respect, whether wc 
regard its advance as enhancing the prosperity of 
the scat of general legislation; as adding one great 
link more to the chain of intercommunication; or as 
a display of youthful national vigour, this great 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 497 

work is of the very first iniportaiice. Its progress will 
be regarded with deep interest by, I might be per- 
mitted to say, the civilized world. 



DELAWARE. 

Boundaries^ extent, and position. — S. and W. by 
Maryland, N. by Pennsylvania, E. by Delaware 
bay, and S. E. by the Atlantic ocean. 

Miles. 

Beginning on the Atlantic ocean at Fenwick's 
island, thence west along Maryland - 36 

Thence northward, along Maryland, to the 
commencement of the semicircle around New 
Castle ----- 87 

Along the semicircle and Pennsylvania to the 
Delaware river - - - 26 

Thence down Delaware bay to Cape Henlopen 90 

Thence along the Atlantic ocean to Fenwick's 
island ----- 20 

Having an entire outline of - - 259 

Length 100, mean width 21, and area 2100 square 
miles, extending from lat. 38° 27' to 39° 50' N. 

JVatural Features. Delaware is the second small- 
est state of the United States, and the least diversi- 
fied in surface. The more northern part is hilly 
and waving, but gradually becomes more monoto- 
nous advancing towards the Atlantic ocean. The 
actual dividing line between the waters of Dela- 
ware and Chesapeake bay is in Delaware, but so 
far from being a ridge is mostly an extended flat, 
from which the Pocomoke, Nanticoke, Choptank, 
Chester, and Sassafras rivers ooze, rather than flow, 
into Chesapeake bay; and a number of unimpor- 
tant creeks flow into the Delaware. The soil, in 
some places excellent, is generally thin, and in many 
places marshy. The climate more distinctly differ- 
ent, at the extremes, than could be expect^4 from 
T t 2 



498 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

a differerxe of latitude of only 1^ 23', and no con- 
siderable difference of level. Fruits are abundant, 
grain and meadow-grass the general objects of agri- 
cultural pursuit. From the mean annual temperature 
of Baltimore, it is evident cotton might be made a 
staple crop of Delaware, and the eastern shore of 
Maryland. Wherever there is 140 days without 
frost, cotton willfully ripen, and produce sufficiently 
for profitable cultivation. But little metallic wealth 
can be expected in a region so approaching to re- 
cent alluvion as Delaware. 

Political Geography. 

Counties. Chief towns. Pop. 1820. 

Kent, m. Dover 20,793 

Newcastle, n. New Castle and Wilmington 27,899 

Sussex, s. Georgetown 24,057 

72,749 
Progressive Population. 

1787—37,000 1800—64,273 

1790—59,094 1810—72,674 

History. — Delaware was peopled by the Swedes 
and Fins as early as 1627. The colony was formed 
under the auspices of Gustavus Adolphus, King of 
Sweden, who named the country Nova Suecia, 
Hoarkill, now Lewistown, was founded 1630, but 
the Dutch claiming the country it passed under their 
power in 1655. In 1664, the colony on the Dela- 
ware fell, with other parts of New Amsterdam, into 
the hands of the English, and was granted by 
Charles II. to his brother James Duke of York, 
who, in 1682, conveyed it, as far as Cape Henlopcn, 
to William Penn. In 1704, Delaware, though un- 
der the same proprietor, became a separate colonial 
establishment, and remained such until the revolu- 
tion. Constitution formed 1776. 

The very important Chesapeake and Delaware 
canal crosses this state, and in its creation forms one 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 499 

of the most remarkable periods of its history. As 
a manufacturing' state, Delaware holds a rank far 
above its relative extent and population. The 
works near Wilmington are extensive and highly- 
valuable. As early as 1810, the value of the vari- 
ous manufactures exceeded ^1,733,000. 

FLORIDA. 

Boundaries, extent, and position. — Florida has 
the Atlantic ocean E., Florida channel S., the Gulf 
of Mexico S. W., Alabama W. and N, W., and 
Georgia N. 

Miles. 

Commencing at the mouth of St. Mary's river, 
and thence along the Atlantic ocean to Flori- 
da point - - - - _ 450 
Upon the Gulf of Mexico, from Florida point 

to the Perdido river - _ - 600 

Up Perdido bay and river to N. lat. 31° 60 

Thence east along N. lat. 31**, and the south 

boundary of Alabama, to Chatahooche river 150 
Down Chatahooche to the influx of Flint river 25 
Thence eastward to the head of St. Mary's river 150 
Down St. Mary's to its mouth - - 80 

Entire outline - - - - 1515 

Following a curve line along the peninsula, from 
Florida point, and continuing to Perdido river at N. 
lat. 31°, the length of Florida is about 600 miles, 
mean breadth 90, and area 54,000 square miles, or 
34,560,000 acres. This territory extends from lat. 
24° 40' to 31° N. and in long, from 3° to 10^° W. 

Natural Geografihy. — Embracing 6 degrees of 
latitude, a considerable difference of seasons must 
be experienced in Florida; but from the general 
uniformity of surface, and from being enclosed on 
three sides by the sea, the transitions of tempera- 
ture are seldom very rapid or violent. Florida is 



500 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

naturally subdivided into two very different zoneSj 
by the 28th degree of latitude. Above the latter 
curve the surface of the country is more broken, 
better timbered, and soil much superior to the 
southern zone towards Florida point. The latter in 
great part marshy, flat, and devoid of timber, is the 
true palm tree section of the United States. In all 
Florida the proportion of good to bad soil is very 
small, but the asperities of the soil will, in some 
'measure, be compensated by the mildness of the 
climate. Latitude 28° is a real limit of climate, as 
below that curve snow is unknown, and frost, though 
occasional, is rare. The sugar cane can be culti- 
vated successfully, where the soil will suit, in all 
the maritime parts of Florida, as may the orange, 
lime, and shaddock. Rice, indigo, tobacco, Indian 
corn, and a rich variety of fruit trees compose the 
most important cultivated vegetables of Florida; 
the vine, olive, and perhaps coffee, might be added. 

Many of the northern districts of Florida are 
finely variegated and fertile tracts. The country 
around the new capital Tallahassee, is calcareous and 
remarkable for streams rising into considerable 
volumes, and then sinking into the vast chasms in 
the limestone rocks. Natural bridges are frequent, 
and remarkable in the various branches of Santa Fe 
river. 

Florida has been considered, when compared with 
its tropical neighbourhood, a healthy country. Hum- 
boldt, and others, regard the palms as marking the 
range of tropical diseases; a connection, it is proba- 
ble, not altogether imaginary. A snnilar coinci- 
dence has been remarked between disease and the 
long moss of Louisiana, Florida, and Georgia. 
These two vegetables advance and terminate in 
most instances nearly together. 

Florida though, for a country containing upwards 
of 1000 miles of sea coast, not abounding in good 
harbours, does, however, possess a few whicli are 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 501 

excellent; Pensacola, Tampa, Charlotte Harbour, 
St, Augustine, and St. Mary's, are the principal, 
the two former and the latter admitting vessels of 
20 feet draught. One large river, the Appalachi- 
cola, has its estuary in Florida, but does not afford 
a depth of water in proportion to its magnitude. 

The rivers of Florida have been noticed, the 
principal are St. John's, St. Mary's, Suwannee, Ock- 
lockonne, Appalachicola, Choctaw, the confluents 
of Pensacola, and Perdido; which can be seen under 
their respective heads. 

Political Geography. — Tallahassee, the present 
capital of Florida, is situated in the county of Leon, 
and in that remarkable calcareous region, already 
noticed, between the Ausilly and Ocklockonne ri- 
vers. The city, for such it is denominated by char- 
ter, is not placed on any navigable stream, nor is 
any navigable point within several miles of the place. 
The location was made under the authority of the 
Legislative Council of Florida, December 12th, 
1824, at N. lat. 30° 27', long. 7° 23' W., about 26 
miles nearly due north from Ocklockonne bay. 

Counties, Chief tatvns. 

Alachua, m. Dell's 

Duval, n. e. Jacksonville 

Escambia, n. iv. Pensacola 

Gadsden, m. n. Quincy 

Hamilton, m. n. Miccotown 

Jackson, n. tv. Websville 

Jefferson, ra. 71. Monticello 

•Leon, m. n. Tallahassee 

Madison, w. n. Ilickstown 
Monroe, extreme s. Thompson's Island 

Mosquetoe Xemska 

Nassau, ?i.e. Fernandina 

St. John's, s. St. Augustine 

Walton, 7i;. Alaqua 

Washington, m. Holmes' Valley, 



502 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Of the population of Florida I am unable to 
speak with any precision. At the cession of the 
territory, in 1821, the inhabitants were estimated*at 
10,000, and have no doubt increased; 14 or 15,000 
would, it is probable, be a moderate estimate for the 
existing numbers. 

History. — Florida, from Pasqua Florida^ or 
Palm Sunday, was imposed by Juan Ponce de Leon, 
the Spanish discoverer, in 1512. When imposed, 
and long afterwards, the name of Florida was gene- 
ral, in Spanish literature, for the Atlantic coast of 
North America. The first effective colonization 
was made at St. Augustine, in 1565, when that city 
was founded. With many vicissitudes of fortune, 
Florida remained to the Spaniards until 1763, when 
it was ceded to the British government. In 1781, 
the Spanish governor of Florida, Don Galvez, con- 
quered West Florida, and by the treaty of Paris, 
1783, the whole of both Floridas were re-ceded by 
Great Britain to Spain. 

In 1819, negociations were opened between the 
United States and Spain, for the cession of Florida 
to the former, and a treaty to that purpose formed. 
This treaty was ratified by Spain, October 1820; by 
the United States, February 1821; and in July, of the 
latter year, finally taken possession of by General 
Jackson, by order of his government. It is now a 
territory of the United States. 



GEORGIA. 

Boundaries, extent, and position. — By the Atlan- 
lantic ocean S. E., Florida S., Alabama W., North 
Carolina N., and South Carolina N. E. 

Miles. 

Beginning on the Atlantic ocean at the mouth 
of Savannah river, and thence along tliat 
ocean to the mouth of St. Mary's river 105 

Up St. Mary's river - - - 80 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 503 

Miles. 

Carried over - - - - 185 

Thence along Florida, westward, to the junc- 
tion of Flint and Chatahooche rivers 150 

Up Chatahooche to the south-east angle of 
Alabama - - - - 25 

Thence with the eastern boundary of Alabama 
to Nickajack on the southern boundary of 
Tennessee - - - _ 306 

Thence east along Tennessee to north-west an- 
gle of North Carolina - - 80 

Continuing east, along N. Carolina, to Chatuga 
branch of Savannah river - - 67 

Down Chatuga, Tugaloo, and Savannah rivers 
to the mouth of the latter - - 260 

Entire outline - - - - 1073 

Length from north to south 300, mean breadth 203, 
and area 61,000 square miles, equal to 39,040,000 
statute acres. Extending from lat. 30° 22' to 35° 
N., and in long, from 3° 50' to 8° 38' W. 

Natural Geography. — Georgia is very much the 
most diversified state of the United States, both as 
to soil and relative elevation. It is subdivided by 
the hand of nature into three zones, with very dis- 
tinct features. The lowest, most south-eastern, 
and what may be called the tropical zone, rises by 
a very slow acclivity from the Atlantic ocean, com- 
mencing in a series of islands. This is in its oceanic 
margin a recent alluvion; and is followed by a sandy 
tract of little more elevation, but reaching to the 
falls of the rivers. The third, or hilly, and finally 
mountainous section, is most extensive, fertile, and 
salubrious. From the level of the Atlantic islands 
to the mountain vales of Chatahooche and Etowah 
rivers, must be a difference of elevation of 12 or 
1500 feet; at the lowest an equivalent to 3° of lat. 
which, added to 4° 38' gives a difference of 7° 38' 
i\\ temperature. 



504 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

The mountainous northern extremity rises into 
an elevation favourable to the apple and cereal gra- 
mina, while the southern extremity on the Appa- 
lachicola, Suwanne, St. Mary's, Santilla, and Ala- 
tamaha, has a temperature suitable to the sugar 
cane, orange, olive, date, and lemon. Between those 
extremes vegetable production has indeed an ex- 
tensive limit; it may be asserted that few, if any, 
regions of the earth, of equal extent, admit the pro- 
fitable cultivation of more numerous vegetable spe- 
cies. Besides those already named, may be added 
cotton, rice, tobacco, and indigo; of fruits, the peach, 
fig, pomegranate, plum, &c. 

In its effects on the human body the climate of 
Georgia is not less marked, in its extremes, than on 
vegetable life. The sea border is a region of palms, 
and, as has been demonstrated in this View, has a 
mean temperature at least two degrees above that 
of equal latitudes in the basin of Mississippi. In 
summer the Atlantic border is a real tropical cli- 
mate, whilst towards North Carolina and Tennessee 
the mountain vales smile under a mitigated sun. 

In metallic matter, except iron, Georgia is not 
productive. Cotton, rice, and sugar may be regard- 
ed its staples. The former has, however, so far 
predominated, and the Atlantic islands producing a 
peculiar kind of superior value, that it might, with- 
out much error, be considered the exclusive staple 
of the state. The sv/eet orange and sugar cane can 
be cultivated with complete success along the whole 
ocean border, and for some distance inland. 

Political Geograjihij. — Milledgeville, the seat of 
government, is situated on the rig-ht bank of Oconee 
river, in Baldwin county, N. lat. 33° 06', long. 6^^ 
16' W. The whole state being an immense inclined 
plain, down which navigable rivers flow at every 
20 or 30 miles distance, precludes the rise of any 
very large interior city. The fine streams of the 
Savannah, Ogeechc, Alatamalui, Santilla, and St. 



OF THE UNITED STATES, 



505 



Mary's on the S. E., the Appalachicola and its con- 
fluents S. W., and the higher branches of the Coosa 
N. W. give great navigable facilities, but divert the 
commerce of the inhabitants to too many and dis- 
tant points to admit the rise of large emporia. 
Savannah, on Savannah river, with a population of 
8000, is the largest city in the state. For political 
purposes Georgia is subdivided into the counties of — 



Counties. 


Chief totms. 


Pop. 1820. 


Appling, s. 


Applingville 


1264 


Baker, s. w. 


Byron 




Baldwin, m. 


MlLLEDGEVIILE^ 


7734 


Bibb, m. w. 


Macon 




Bryan, s. e. 




3021 


Bullock, s. e. 


Statesboro 


2578 


Burke, s. e. 


Waynesboro 


11577 


Butts, m. w. 


Jackson 




Camden, s. e. 


Jefferson 


4342 


Carroll, w. 


Carrollton 




Chatham, e. 


Savannah 


14737 


Clarke, m. n. 


Watkinsville 


8767 


Columbia, e. n. 


Columbia C. H. 


12695 


Coweta, w. 


Newnam 




Crawford, m. w. 


Knoxville 




Decatur, s. tv. 


Bainbridge 




De Kalb, iv. 


Decatur 




Dooly, s. -w. 


Berrien 




Early, s. iv. 


Blakely 


768 


Effingham, e. 


Willoughby 


3018 


Elbert, e. n. 


Elberton 


11788 


Emanuel, m. e. 


Swainsboro 


2928 


Fayette, w. 


Fayetteville 




Franklin, n. e. 


Carnesville 


9040 


Glynn, s. e. 


Brunswick 


3418 


Greene, m. n. 


Greensboro 


13589 


Gwinnett, n. w. 


Lawrenceville 


4589 


Habersham, n. 


Clarkesville 


3145 


Hall, n. 


Gainesville 


5086 



506 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 
Hancock, m. 
Harris, w. 
Henry, m. iv. 
Houston, XV. 
Irwin, s. 
Jackson, m. 
Jasper, m. 
Jefferson, m. e. 
Jones, m. 
Laurens, ?n. 
Lee, w. s. 
Liberty, s. e, 
Lincoln, e. 
Lowndes, s. 
Madison, n. e, 
M'Intosh, s. e. 
Marion, s. tv. 
Merriwether, w. 
Monroe, in. w. 
Montgomery, m. ^ 
Morgan, m. iv. 
Muscogee, w. 
Newton, m. n. 
Oglethorpe, n. e. 
Pike, w. 
Pulaski, m. s. 
Putnam, m. 
Rabun, n. 
Richmond, e. 
Scriven, e. 
Talbot, w. 
Talliaferro, wi. 
Tatnall, s. e. 
Telfair, m, s. 
Thomas, s, 
Troup, w. 

Twiggs, 7M. 

Upson, m. TV. 
Walton, m. ji. 
Ware, s. 



Chief toivns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Sparta 


12734 


Hamilton 




M'Donough 




Perry 




Irwinville 


411 


Jefferson 


8355 


Monticello 


14614 


Louisville 


7056 


Clinton 


16560 


Dublin 


5436 


Riceboro 


6695 


Lincolnton 


6458 


Lowndboro 




Danielsville 


3735 


Harien 


5129 


Merriwether C. H. 




Forsyth 




Mount Vernon 


1862 


Madison 


13520 


Columbus 




Covington 




Lexington 


14046 


Zebulon 




Hartford 


5283 


Eatontown 


15475 


Clayton 


524 


Augusta 


8608 


Jacksonboro 


3941 


Talbotton 




Crawfordsville 




Perry's Mills 


2644 


Jacksonville 


2104 


Thomasville 




Troup C. H. 




Marion 


10640 


Thomaston 




Monroe 


4192 


Wareboro 





OF THE UNITED STATES. 507 

Counties. 
Warren, m. e. 
Washington, m. 
Wayne, s. e. 
Wilkes, e. 
Wilkinson, m. 

Total S4Q,989 

Summary of distributive Population, 

Sectioni. Whites. Free Col'd. Slaves. Total. 

Maritime tract 64,394 1,223 58,464 124,964 

Central or hilly 96,724 519 83,825 181,068 

Mountainous 29,250 76 5,621 34,957 



Chief towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Warrenton 


10630 


Sandersville 


10627 


Waynesville 




Washington 




Irwinton 





Total 190,368 1,818 147,910 340,989 

Of these, engaged in agriculture 97,221; in manu- 
factures, 3,427; in commerce, 1,989. 

In 1824, the population of Georgia had risen to 
an aggregate of 392,900; of whom 222,282 were 
white, and 170,618 people of colour. This is an in- 
crease very nearly at the rate of 5 per cent, per an- 
num; and would yield in 

1822 358,050 1827 456,968 

1823 375,950 1828 479,816 

1824 392,900 1829 503,800 

1825 414,484 1830 529,000 

1826 435,208 

History of Georgia. — This colony was the last 
founded by the British government in the now Unit- 
ed States. Georgia was named, and granted by 
patent in 1732, to Gen, James Oglethorpe, and Sa- 
vannah founded 1733. In 1752, it was made a royal 
government, and in 1755, a general representative 
assembly established. From its original foundation 
until the close of the last Indian war, 1818, Georgia 
has been more vexed by distressing petty war- 
fare than any of the colonies. Whilst under 
Great Britain, the proximity of this colony to Fieri- 



508 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

da, exposed its southern frontier to frequent and 
ruinous invasions. In the revolutionary war it had 
its full share of danger and suffering, and it is only 
recently that the western border has been relieved 
from Indian depredation. Though colonised nearly 
a century, Georgia in many respects has had an 
advance similar to those states and territories v/hich 
have been formed since the revolutionary war, and 
such is its progress at present, that in population 
and wealth it is rapidly gaining upon the more an- 
cient states of the Atlantic slope. That part actu- 
tually organised into counties in 1829,comprises about 
50,000 square miles, and contains only 10|^ to the 
square mile. If populated generally equal to some 
of the central counties, say 30 to the square mile, 
would give an aggregate of 1,500,000, and if only 
equal to South Carolina, about 20 to the square 
mile, one million of inhabitants. 



ILLINOIS. 

Boundaries, extent and fiosition, — This state has 
the Mississippi river W. and S. W., Ohio and Wa- 
bash rivers S. E., Indiana E., lake Michigan N, E. 
and the Trans-Michigan territory N. 
Commencing at the junction of Ohio and Mis- 
sissippi rivers, and thence up the latter op- 
posite Missouri to the mouth of Le Moine 
river, by comparative courses, 340 

Continuing up the Mississippi to N. lat. 42° 

30', 200 

Thence due E. to lake Michigan, 167 

Along lake Michigan, 57 

Thence due S. along W. boundary of Indiana, 162 
Down the Wabash to the mouth, 120 

Down the Ohio river to the mouth, 130 

Having an entire outline of 31 76 



OF^HE UNITED STATES. 509 

Length from the junction of Mississippi and Ohio 
rivers at N, lat. 37°, to the northern boundary of 
the state, N. lat. 42° 30', 382 miles; mean breadth 
154, area 58,900 square miles, equal to 35,696,000 
statute acres. 

JVatural Geography. — Illinois is, after Virginia, 
Georgia and Missouri, the fourth in point of extent, 
and in general fertility of soil the first state of the 
United States, Extending over a zone of 5^° of lat- 
itude, it embraces the greatest extreme north and 
south ; Georgia and New York only embracing each 
4^°. Illinois is comparatively a great and very 
gently inclining plain. It is a country of so very 
little difference of level, that it may be doubted 
whether the general level varies 600 feet. The 
mouth of Ohio, we have seen, is about 321 feet above 
the level of the Atlantic Ocean, and it is probable 
that from 400 to 1000 would be a safe estimate for 
the state. With all its uniformity of surface, the 
climate at the extremes, differs very materially in 
temperature. By reference to tables 42 and 45, pa- 
ges 376 and 379, it will be seen that at Green bay, 
2 degrees north from Illinois, the thermometer has 
fallen to 38 below 0°, and at New Harmony 38° 11' 
N. opposite the southern part of that state, to 5° be- 
low 0°. If a due comparison is made with conti- 
guous places, it is rendered doubtful whether the 
mean heat of any part of Illinois would amount to 
53°. The Council Bluffs lat. 41'' 25^ is found only 
50°. 82 of Fahrenheit. The too high temperature 
of New Harmony and Cincinnati, by the table, has 
been accounted for, and shewn to arise from obser- 
ving exclusively while the sun was above the hor- 
izon. 

Illinois in regard to soil, resembles Ohio and 
Indiana, but with less of flat and irreclaimable 
land than either, and generally more rich plain than 
both the latter taken together. The surface is roll- 
ing on the S. and W. and level on the N, and E, 
■ u u 2 



510 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

The exotic and cultivated vegetables of Illinois 
are so nearly the same with those of Ohio, Indiana 
and Kentucky, as to demand but slight separate no- 
tice. 

Though but a confined section of Illinois has yet 
been found rich in metallic matter, that section is pe- 
culiarly abundant in one of the most useful metals, 
lead. The county of Jo-Daviess, with the chief 
town Galena, occupies the N. W. angle of the state 
and that part of a lead region which is included in 
Illinois. The ore is also found on the western 
side of Mississippi opposite the county of Jo-Daviess, 
and is very abundant and rich. 

In navigable facilities, Illinois in a particular man- 
ner abounds. It is literally bordered and traver- 
sed by streams of the first importance, and with 
one angle protruded to lake Michigan. The ease 
with which a canal navigation could be opened from 
Illinois river into the Canadian sea, has been dis- 
cussed in more than one part of this view. Illinois 
is in brief, a state on which a very dense population 
may and will be supported. 

Political Geografihy. — Vandalia the capital of 
Illinois stands on the right bank of Kaskaskia river, 
at N. lat. SS'^ 57', Ion. 11° 58' W., about 70 miles 
N. E. by E. from St. Louis. For civil purposes, Il- 
linois is divided into counties as follows. 

Pop. 1820. 

626 
2931 

931 



3022 
544^ 



Counties. 


Chief Toxvns. 


Adams, w. 


Quincy 


Alexander, s. 


America 


Bond, m. 


Greenville 


Calhoun, w. 


Gilead 


Clark, e. 


Clark, C. H. 


Clay, e. 


Maysville 


Clinton, in. iv. 


Carlisle 


Crawford, e. 


Palestine 


Edi^-cir, e. 


Paris 


Edwards, e. s. 


Albion 


KayeUe, m. 


Vandalta 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



511 



Counties. 
Franklin, s. e. 
Fulton, m. tv. 
Gallatin, s. e. 
Greene, w. 
Hamilton, s, e. 
Hancock, 
Henry, 

Jackson, s. iv. 
Jefferson, m. s. 
Jo-Daviess, n. w. 
Johnson, s. 
Knox, n. w. 
Lawrence, e. 
Putnam, 
Lay, 

Madison, w. 
Marion, s. w. 
Mercer, w. n. 
Monroe, w. s. 
Montgomery, m. 
Morgan, w. 
Peoria, m. n. 
Perry, iv. s. 
Pike, 7a. 
Pope, s, 
"Randolph, 7v. s, 
St. Clair, w. s. 
Sangamon, ?k. n. 
Schuyler, iv. 
Shelby, m. 
Tazewell, m. n. 
Union, s. 
Vermillion, e, 
Wabash, e. s. 
Warren, w. n. 
Washington, m. w. 
Wavne, in. s. 
White, e. s. 

Total, 



Chief Toxuns. 
Frankfort 
Lewistown 
Shawneetown 
Carrolton 
Mc. Leansboro 



Brownsville 
Mount Vernon 
Galena 
Vienna 

Lawrenceville 



Edwardsville 
Salem 



Fop. 1820. 
1763 

3155 



1542 
691 

843 



13550 



V/aterloo 


1537 


Ilillsboro 




Jacksonville 




Peoria 


- 


Pinkneyville 




Atlas 




Golconda 


2610 


Kaskaskia 


3492 


Belleville 


5253 


Springfield 




Bardstown 


^ 


Shelbyville 




Mackinau 




Jonesboro 


2362 


Carolus 




Centreville 




Covington 


1517 


Fairfield 


1114 


Ctvrmi 


4828 



55,211 



)512 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

By the census of 1820 there were in Illinois, 
whites 53,788, free coloured persons 506, and slaves 
917. Of these were engaged in agriculture, 12,395; 
in manufactures 1007 ; and in commerce 233. 

History. — The country along the Illinois and 
Mississippi rivers, was discovered by the French 
about 1673, and soon after small and unimportant 
colonies formed at Kaskaskia, and a few other pla- 
ces. These colonies never assumed any magnitude 
of consequence, and when, at the close of the re- 
volutionary war, this region became a part of 
the United States territory, it was claimed under 
the charter of Virginia, and was a wilderness in the 
far greatest part of its extent. Virginia ceded her 
claim, and in 1787, Illinois was included in the ter- 
ritory N. W. of the Ohio. In 1801, it was inclu- 
" ded with Indiana and remained so until 1809, when 
Illinois was separated and made a territory. In 
1818 by act of Congress, a state constitution was 
formed, and in December of the same year, Illinois 
became one of the United States. 

INDIANA. 

Boundaries, extent and position. — The Ohio riv- 
er or Kentucky S. and S. E., Ohio E,, Michigan 
Territory N., Lake Michigan N. W., Illinois W. 
and Wabash river S. W. 

Commencing on the Ohio river at the influx of 
the Wabash, thence up the latter opposite 
Illinois, 120 

Thence due N. along Illinois, to lake Michigan, 162 
Along lake Michigan, 33 

Thence due E. along Michigan territory, no 

Thence due S. along Michigan to the N. W. an- 
gle of Ohio, 10 
S. continued along Ohio, Iff 
Thence down Ohio b)^ the bends 353, but by 
comparative courses, ' 280 

Having an entire outline of 892 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 5 I 3 

Extending from lat. 37° 48' to 41° 36/ and in Ion. 
from 7° 44' to 11° W. Indiana is in length 264 
miles ; in mean width 124, and area 34,000 square 
miles. 

JVatural Geography. — ^With very nearly similar 
latitudes to Illinois, but little if any essential obser- 
vation on the climate of Indiana can be added to 
what was made under the head of the former. In 
regard to the respective physiognomy of the two 
states, the resemblance is again equally strong. 
Both states occupying part of the great western incli- 
ned plain, stretching from the Appalachian system, 
a rise of general level is perceptible near the 
Ohio. The hills along that stream present a bold- 
er front, but on advancing northward into the 
interior of Indiana, the surface is more monotonous 
than that of Illinois. The true character of the 
rivers of this part of the United States has been 
sketched. Indiana, though not so advantageously 
situated respecting navigable streams as Illinois, 
yet comprises in the Ohio, and the Wabash and its 
branches, great facilities of transportation, and in 
the moderate elevation of surface above the level 
of the rivers, canals will be comparatively easy of 
execution. 

The elements given in tables 63 and 67, will serve to 
exhibit the temperature of southern Indiana, as far as 
dependance can be placed on these elements. Of the 
northern and unsettled sections, we have no data to 
particularise the seasons, but from analogy the gen- 
eral temperature must greatly exceed that of Ohio. 
Under the head of metals, not yet explored, the 
natural history of Indiana is barren. Salt, iron, and 
some other fossils are met with, but mining enter- 
prise has not been brought into extensive operation. 

The agriculture of this state, like its settlement, 
is in its infancy, and in mode and objects of cultiva- 
tion, differs but very little from that of Ohio and 
Illinois. Grain and stock are the staples, Indiana 



514 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



and Illinois may be said to touch rather than ad- 
vance into the cotton region. That vegetable may 
indeed, be cultivated in the southern part of both 
states, but it is more than probable that the gener- 
al temperature of the seasons is too low to admit its 
ever becoming a valuable staple. 

Political Geography. — Indianapolis, the seat of 
the government, is situated in Marion county, on the 
left bank of White river, at N. lat. 39 '^ 47', and Ion. 
9° 03' W. and very near the centre of the state. 

Counties. 
Allen, e. n. 
Bartholomew, m. 
Clark, s. 
Carroll, n. w. 
Clay 

Crawford, s. 
Daviess, s. io. 
Dearborn, e. s. 
Decatur, m. w. 
Delaware, m. e. 
Dubois, s. w. 
Fayette, e. 
Floyd, s. 
Fountain, w. 
Franklin, <?. 
Gibson, s. w. 
Greene, w. 
Hamilton, m. 
Hancock, m. 
Harrison, s. 
Hendricks, m. 
Henry, e. 
Jackson, m. s. 
Jefferson, s. e. 
Jennings, s. e. 
Johnson, m. 
Knox, w. s. 
I^awreace, ?n. *. 
Madison, m. 



Chief Totons, 


Pop. 1820 


Fort Wayne 




Columbus 




Charleston 


8709 


Delphi 




Bowling Green 




Fredonia 


2583 


Washington 


3432 


Lawrenceburgh 


11468 


Greensburgh 


3677 


Munseytown 




Portersville 


1168 


Connorsville 


5950 


New Albany 


2776 


Covington 




Brookville 


10763 


Princeton 


3876 


Bloomfield 




Npblesville 




Sugar Creek 




Cory don 


7875 


Danville 




New Castle 




Brownstown 


4010 


Madison 


8038 


Vernon 


2000 


Franklin 




Vincennes 


5437 


Bedford 


4116 


Pendleton 





OF THE UNITED STATES. 



515 



Counties. 


Chief Towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Marion, m. 


IXDIANAPOLIS 




Martin, jn. s. 


Hindostan 


1032 


Montgomery, m. tu. 


Crawfordsville 




Monroe, m. s. 


Bloomington 


2672 


Morgan, m. 


Marti nville 




Orange, s. 


Paoli 


5368 


Owen, m. w. 


Spencer 


838 


Parke, w. 


Rockville 




Perry, s. 


Troy 


2330 


Pike, s. IV. 


Columbia 


1472 


Posey, s. tv. 


Mount Vernon 


4061 


Putnam, m. w. 


Green Castle 




Randolph, 


Winchester 


1808 


Ripley, s. e. 


Versailles 


1822 


Rush, m. e. 


Rushville 


2334 


Scott, s. 


Lexington 




Shelby, m. 


Shelbyville 




Spencer, s. 


Rockport 


1882 


Sullivan, w. 


Merom 


3498 


Switzerland, s. e. 


Vevay 


3934 


Tippecanoe, w. n. 


Lafayette 




Union, e. 


Liberty 


1798 


Vanderburgh, s. w. 


Evansville 




Vermillion, w. 


Newport 




Vigo, tv. 


Terre Haute 


3390 


Wabash, 




147 


Warren, 






Warwick, s. to. 


Boonville 


1749 


Washington, s. 


Salem 


9039 


Wayne, e. 


Centreville 


12119 



Total, 



147,198 



Of these, by the census of 1820, were whites, 
145,758; free persons of colour, 1,230; and slaves, 
190; the whole thus classed: engaged in agriculture, 
61,315; in manufactures, 3,229; and in commerce, 

429. 



516 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY- 

Progressive Pofiulation. 
1800 5,640 1825 250,000 

1810 24,520 1828 300,000 rising, 

1820 147,17-8 
* History, — The first known civilized settlement 
made in Indiana, was formed about 1690, by the 
French at Vincennes, but remained of little conse- 
quence. This remote village was reached by the 
calamities of the revolutionary war, and followed 
the fortune of other parts of the western country. 
Settlements, by the people of the United States, be- 
gan to be extensively formed after the treaty of 
Grenville, in 1795. It was erected into a territory, 
including Illinois, in 1801. The latter was separa- 
ted from the former in 1809, when each constituted 
an independent territory. In 1815, Indiana having 
the requisite number of inhabitants, 60,000, was 
permitted by Congress to form a state constitution, 
which was done, and in the following year was for- 
mally admitted into the Union as an independent 
State, 

KENTUCKY. 
Boundaries, extent, and position. — Virginia E., 
Tennessee S., Mississippi river or state of Missouri, 
S. W, ; Ohio river, or Illinois and Indiana N. W, ; 
Ohio river, or state of Ohio, N. E. 

Miles. 

Commencing on Mississippi river at the N. 
W. angle of Tennessee, thence up that 
stream opposite the state of Missouri, to 
the mouth of Ohio 42 

Up Ohio river opposite the state of Illinois, 

to the mouth of Wabash, 130 

Continuing up Ohio river opposite Indiana by 
comparative courses, to the influx of Great 
Miami, 280 

Continuing up Ohio river, opposite the state 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 517 

of Ohio, to the mouth of Big Sandy, 173 

Thence up Big Sandy to its passage through 

Cumberland mountain, 70 

Along Cumberland mountains to the northern 

boundary of Tennessee, on lat. 36° 35', 106 

Thence westward, along Tennessee to Ten- 
nessee river, 242 
Up Tennessee river to N. lat. 36° 30', 12 
Thence due west along N. lat 36° 30', to 

the point of outset on Mississippi river, 84 

Entire outline * 1139 

The greatest length of Kentucky is from the S. W. 
angle of the state on Mississippi river, to the ex- 
treme eastern point on Big Sandy, 380 miles; mean 
width 99, and area 37,680 square miles, equal to 
24,115,200 statute acres. 

Extreme S. at N. lat. 36° 30'; extreme N. at the 
great Miami Bend, 39° 08'; between longitudes 5° 
and 12° 25' W. 

JVatural Geography. — A single glance upon its 
map is only necessary to shew that Kentucky must 
present considerable diversity of soil, surface, and 
climate. The S. E. part is mountainous, and from, 
this section rise the most important rivers which 
traverse the state, Cumberland, Kentucky, Licking, 
and Great Sandy. The state is naturally divisible 
into three distinctive portions, the mountainous S. 
E.; comparatively level, in the centre and S. W. ; and 
hilly, along the Ohio river. If contrasted, however, 
with the plains of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missou- 
ri, no part of Kentucky is level. In no other parts of 
the United States do the water courses flow in 
chasms so deeply cut into the solid rocks. The 
substrata generally limestone. Towards the moun- 
tains the physiognomy of the country presents steep 
hills, with narrow, deep, and gloomy valleys; this 
aspect gradually changes in descending the rivers, 
and is followed by a fine rolling country, but with, in 



518 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

many places, a scarcity of spring water. On the 
border of Tennessee, spreads the " Barrens^^ a 
very deceptive title, as this quarter of the state is 
by no means in a peculiar manner sterile. The 
timber of the N. E. section of Kentucky is Lirio- 
dendron, elm, oak many species, hickory many 
species, black walnut, cherry, and a variety of other 
trees; on the " Barrens,''* the timber trees are oak, 
chestnut, and elm, generally. The hills of the Bar- 
rens are round, gently sloping, and are locally de- 
signated " Oak Knobsy^ and in their form deviate 
remarkably from the common ridges which consti- 
tute what is usually denominated a hilly country. 

The agriculture of this state partakes of the cha- 
racter of that of every state of the United States be- 
yond the region of sugar and rice. In the south- 
western counties, near and on Tennessee, Cumber- 
land, and Mississippi rivers, cotton is a staple, 
whilst all the grains, fruits, and meadow grasses of 
the northern and middle states flourish in other sec- 
tions. The climate is also an epitome of that of all 
other states on which it borders. The extremes are 
severe, both as to heat and cold. In the note to ta- 
ble 68, page 407^, it is shewn that the thermometer, 
in the northern part of Kentucky, has fallen to 14° 
below zero. This might have been an extreme 
case, but compared to its latitude, the winters of 
Kentucky are long and severe. 

The relative situation of this state is almost 
mathematically central. Including the already or- 
ganized states and territories, there is no other state 
so nearly equi-distant from the extremes. This prox- 
imity to other members of the Union, combined with 
her extensive frontier on Ohio, confers great advan- 
tage on Kentucky as a manufacturing state, and the 
great proportion of her population engaged in manu- 
factures shew how far the advantages of nature 
have been rendered available. 

Political Gcogra/ihy, — Frankfort, tlie capital of 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



519 



the state, stands on the right* bank of Kentucky ri- 
ver, in Franklin county, N. lat. 38° 48', long. 7° 48' 
W, 68 miles in a direct line S. S. W. from Cincinat- 
ti. Population 1820, 1679. 

Counties. 
Adair, s. 
Allen, s. 
Anderson, s. 
Barren, 
Bath, m. e. 
Boone, n. 
Bourbon, in. n. 
Bracken, n. 
Breckenridge, n. w. 
Bullitt, n. IV. 
Butler, s. w. 
Caldwell, w. 
Callaway, s. w. 
Campbell, n. 
Casey, m. s. 
Christian, s. w. 
Clark, m. 
Clay, s. e. 
Cumberland, s. 
Daviess, w. 
Edmonson, s. 
Estil, m.e. 
Fayette, m. 
Fleming, n. e. 
Floyd, e. 
Franklin, 
Gallatin, n. 
Garrard, ?«. 
Grant, n. 
Graves, s. w. 
Grayson, m. iv. 
Greene, m. s. 
Greenup, n. e. 
Hardin, n, w. 

* In speaking of the right or left bank of a stream, it is done iu 
reference to a descending course.— t->. *^ T. 



Chief Totvns, 


Pop. in 1820. 


Columbia 


8765 


Scottsville 


5327 


Lawrenceburg 




Glasgow 


10328 


Owingsville 


7960 


Burhngton 


6542 


Paris 


17664 


Augusta 


5280 


Hardingsburg 


7485 


Shepherdsville 


5831 


Morgantown 


3083 


Eddyville 


9022 


Wadesboro 




Newport 


7022 


Liberty 


4349 


Hopkinsville 


10459 


Winchester 


11449 


Manchester 


4393 


Burkesville 


S058 


Owensboro 


3876 


Brownsville 




Irvine 


3507 


Lexington 


23250 


Flemingsburg 


12186 


Prestonburgh 


8207 


FaANKrORT 


11024 


Port William' 


7075 


Lancaster 


10851 


Williamstown 


1805 


Mayfield 




Litchfield 


4055 


Greensburg 


11943 


Greenupsburg 


4311 


Elizabethtown 


10498 



520 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Harlan, s, e, 
Harrison, n. 
Hart, 7w. w. 
Henderson, w. 
Henry, n. 
Hickman, s. w. 
Hopkins, w. 
Jefferson, n. w. 
Jessamine, wj. 
Knox, s. e. 
Laurel, s. e. 
Lawrence, e, 
Lewis, n. 
Lincoln, m. s, 
Livingston, w. 
Logan, s. 
Madison, ?n. 
Mason, n. 
M'Cracken, s, tv. 
Mead, n. iv. 
Mercer, m. 
Monroe, s. 
Montgomery, m. e. 
Morgan, e. 
Muhlenberg, w. 
Nelson, m. 
Nicholas, n. 
Ohio, m. w. 
Oldham, n. w. 
Owen, «. 
Pendleton, n. 
Perry, e. 
Pike, e, 
Pulaski, a. 
Rock Castle, m. s. 
Russell, s. 
Scott, m. n. 
Shelby, m, n. 
Simpson, *. 
Spencer, n. 
Todd, s. 
Trigg, *, w. 



Mount Pleasant 


1961 


Cynthiana 


12278 


Mumfordsville 


4184 


Henderson 


5714 


New Castle 


10816 


Columbus 




Madisonville 


5322 


Louisville 


20768 


Nicholasville 


9297 


Barbourville 


3661 


London 




Louisa 




Clarksburgh 


3973 


Stanford 


9979 


Salem 


3824 


Russelville 


14423 


Richmond 


15954 


Washington 


13588 


Wilmington 




Brandenburgh 




Harrodsburgh 


15587 


Tomkinsville 


4956 


Mount Sterling 


9587 


West Liberty 




Greenville 


4979 


Bairdstown 


16273 


Carlisle 


7973- 


Hartford 


3879 


Westport 




Owentown 


2031 


Falmouth 


3086 


Perry, C. H. 




Pike, C. H. 




Somerset 


7597 


Mount Vernon 


2249 


Jamestown 




Georgetown 


14219 


Shelbyville 


21047 


Franklin 


4852 


Taylorsville 




Elkton 


5089 


Cadiz 


3874 



OF 


THE UNITED STATES. 


521 


Counties. 


Chief Towns. 


Poj&. 1820. 


Union, 7^. 


Morganfield 


3470 


Warren, s. 


Bowling Green 


11776 


Washington, m. 


Springfield 


15987 


Wayne, s. 


Monticello 


7951 


Whitley, s. e. 


Whitley C. H. 


2340 


Woodford, m. 


Versailles 


12207 


Total 


564.317 



Of this population, were whites 434,826; free 
coloured 2759; and slaves 126,732. 

Engaged in Agriculture 132,161 

Do Manufactures 11,779 

Do Commerce 1,617 

History. — The first successful attempt, by the 
whites, to explore Kentucky, was made in 1767, by 
John Finley from North Carolina. Daniel Boone 
followed Finley, and, alone most part of the period, 
explored that region from 1769 to 1771. Boone 
conducted the first colony to the banks of Kentucky 
river, in 1775. Like every frontier colony in the 
now United States, attempted before 1795, the pro- 
gress of Kentucky was made in tears and blood. 
Virginia claimed the soil of Kentucky, under her 
charter, and the country was settled under her au- 
thority. In 1777 it was laid out as a county. In 
1785 the first step was taken to form an independ- 
ent territory; Virginia gave consent to such sepa- 
ration whenever a majority of the inhabitants 
should vote such desire. It was not, however, until 
in June 1790, that Kentucky became one of ;the 
United States. The foundation of Transylvania 
University in 1798, and its re-organization in 1818, 
are the most important events in the history of that 
state since its admission into the Union. That semi- 
nary, located at Lexington, is the most extensive 
literary institution in the United States west of the 
Appalachian mountains. 

X x2 



522 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

LOUISIANA. 

Boundaries, extejit, and position. — Gvilf of Mex- 
ico S. and S. E., Texas W., Arkansas N., and state 
of Mississippi E. and N. E. 

Miles, 

Beginning at the moutli of the Sabine, and 
thence up that river, opposite Texas, to a 
point where it is intersected by 32° lat. 200 

Thence along a meridian line to lat. 33° 69 

Thence due east along Arkansas to the right 
bank of the Mississippi river 172 

Down the Mississippi, opposite the state of 
Mississippi, to N. lat. 31° 235 

Thence due east along Mississippi state to the 
right bank of Pearl river 105 

Down Pearl river to its mouth 60 

Thence along the shores of the Gulf of Mexi- 
co to the mouth of Sabine 400 

Entire outline 1241 

The longest line that can be drawn in Louisiana 
is from the mouth of the Mississippi to the north- 
west angle on Sabine 580 miles; the irregular form 
renders a correct estimate of its mean width diffi- 
cult, but 120 miles is not far from accurate; area 
48, 220 square miles, equal to 30,860,800 statute acres, 
or 36,460,000 French arpents. Extreme S. at N. 
lat. 28° 56'. Extreme N. at N. lat. 33°. Between 
longitudes 11° 36' and 17° 16' W. 

JVatiiral Geografihy. — There is not, perhaps, on 
earth another continuous tract of equal extent, pre- 
senting a greater diversity of soil than does Louisi- 
ana. Within its limits are included all the varieties 
from the most recent, and still periodically sub- 
merged alluvion, to hills approaching the magnitude 
of mountains: every quality of soil, from the most 
productive to the most sterile; and from unwooded 
plahis to perhaj)s the most dense known forests. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 523 

The necessary notice of this peculiar region has 
been in great part anticipated in the physical part 
of this View. The rivers, and the annual overflow 
of the Delta, as well as the general features of the 
soil, have been discussed. In the chapter on climate 
it is shewn that the seasons of Louisiana are colder, 
by a difference of at least two degrees of latitude, 
than are those of a similar latitude on the Atlantic 
coast. This has been demonstrated by the relative 
locality of vegetables, both indigenous and exotic. 
The orange and sugar cane cease in Louisiana, the 
former at about latitude 30°, and the latter at about 
a degree farther north. 

Sugar and rice are the staples of the state, gene- 
rally, below lat. 30°, and cotton above that curve. 
The latter is, however, cultivated in every section 
of the country, and sugar, partially, to near the 
northern boundary, but avidity of gain in some in- 
stances has instigated to an infructuous struggle 
with the laws of nature. 

In fruits Louisiana is abundant; amongst those 
successfully cultivated may be mentioned, the apple 
in the northern parishes; the peach, very excellent, 
and the fig, of several species, over the whole state; 
the orange nearly commensurate with sugar cane; 
the pomegranate over the state wherever attemp- 
ted; in a similar manner the vitis vinifera has suc- 
ceeded. Legumes and garden vegetables, generally, 
seem to have no assignable limit, specifically, on a 
soil so varied, and in a climate so near the tropics. 
It may seem incredible that horticulture should be 
neglected in Louisiana, but such is the melancholy 
fact; and a fact the more unaccountable, as some 
individual gardens would seem irresistibly alluring to 
imitation. 

The entire front of Louisiana, from the Pearl to 
the Sabine, is a selvidge of marsh, in most part de- 
void of timber, traversed by tlie water courses, and 
rising very siov/ly towards the interior. The rise of 



524 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the Delta, to its utmost extremity at the efflux of 
the Atchafalaya, does not, it is probable, amount to 
5 feet. I have seen the tide, in fact, ebb and flow, 
in autumn when the rivers were low, in the Atcha- 
falaya above the influx of Courtableau. Another 
circumstance, to which I have also been a witness, 
evinces the very small inclination of all Louisiana. 
When the Mississippi is in flood, and the overflow 
of the Delta at its height, the Courtableau, Red, and 
Wachitau rivers are rendered stagnant to a great 
distance above their contact with the Mississippi 
water. 

I have experienced some painful reflections from 
anticipating that Louisiana, or at least the Delta, is 
still liable to destructive inundations. This truth, 
for I am still confident it is too true, struck me when 
visiting the various parts of that most peculiar coun- 
try. If the hurricane of the 18th and 19th of Au- 
gust, 1812, had taken place two months earlier in 
the year, the whole Delta would have been sub- 
merged. Travelling along Connecticut river, and 
viewing those alluvial plains noticed in this View, 
page 164, a similar idea struck my mind, that at 
irregular intervals of time they were liable to de- 
structive floods. How far I was right in the latter 
case may be seen by the subjoined extract: 

Awful Calamity. — We have been favoured with 
the following extract of a letter from a gentleman 
in Hartford, to his friend in this city, dated Sunday 
morning, September 7, 1828. 

"You doubtless know something of our freshet, 
but the half has not been told. It is now nearly at 
the highest, though still sv.'elling a little. It is a 
melancholy spectacle. Probably no calamity so 
general has occurred since the settlement of the 
country bordering on this valley. It is sickening to 
behold our rich meadows, only on Monday last lite- 
rally groaning with the greatest crop ever known. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 525 

now covered over, as far as the eye can reach, like 
a great sea. Not a vestige of land can be seen on 
the Wethersfield road east. The long East-bridge, 
next to East-Hartford, on the meadow, was expect- 
ed to go off. The trussels were raised, and the 
water is up to the floor. Several live oxen floated 
by yesterday — one pair yoked. Several are now 
standing on the highest part of south meadow, their 
backs just out of water. A red fox and a grey rab- 
bit, probably visiters from Vermont, were caught 
just east of Morgan's bridge. The timber pre- 
pared and laid for the guard lock at Enfield Falls 
went by two days since; — all the embankment un- 
der water, leaving not even a ripple. The water 
is 24 feet above low water mark. It is superfluous 
to say that all the crops on the meadows are de- 
stroyed, for a hundred or two miles up the country. 
Farmington canal is injured in several places, we 
hear, and the culvert partly gone. The same wri- 
ter states that the losses and damages cannot be es- 
timated less than 500,000 dollars."* 

The vicinity of Hartford, Connecticut, has been 
known to civilized man above two centuries ; the 
Delta of the Mississippi about 130 years. 

The climate of Louisiana demands the more par- 
ticular notice, as it has been very much misunder- 
stood. In recording the mean temperature of places, 
in table 45, page 379, I have set down that of New 
Orleans, comparatively, at 69° 01' Faht., but am 
convinced that the real mean of that city does not 
exceed 63°; and, what is of more consequence to 
vegetation than mean heat, that the extreme of win- 
ter cold over lower Louisiana is greatly more in ex- 
cess than it is even at Charleston, South Carolina. 
Compare the range of the thermometer at Pensa- 
cola. Baton Rouge, and Cantonment Jessup, on Sa- 

* Aurora and Pennsylvania Gazette, Sept. 12, 1828. 



526 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

bine, with that of Charleston, St. Augustine, and 
Tampa bay, and we find the lowest point to which 
the thermometer fell at the city of Charleston to be 
+ 19°, whilst at Pensacola the mercury had sunk 
to +11°, at Baton Rouge to +18°, and at Canton- 
ment Jessup to +7°. 

If we add together the respective highest and low- 
est range of the thermometer at Pensacola, Baton 
Rouge, and Cantonment Jessup, it maybe remarked 
we have so low a mean of the three places combined 
as 54° 5'. The latter is too low, but it is no doubt 
much nearer the real mean of central Louisiana than 
is 68° 35', the combined mean deduced from the in- 
dividual mean in table 45. In reality as far as vege- 
tation can decide the question, the seasons may be 
considered milder at Charleston, South Carolina, 
lat. 32° 42', than at New Orleans in lat. 30°. 

Political Geography . — The principal city of Lou- 
isiana, and in respect to population, in the southern 
part of the United States, stands on the left bank of 
the Mississippi 105 miles above its mouth, and at N. 
lat. 30°, long. 13° 06' W. The increase of popula- 
tion of this city has been rapid and steady. I was 
there in April 1805, when the inhabitants were esti- 
mated between eight and ten thousand, in 1820 they 
amounted to 42,900, and now exceed 60,000, 

For civil and municipal purposes Louisiana is sub- 
divided into parishes. 

Parishes. Chief toivns. Pop. 1820. 

Ascension, m. s. Donaldsonville 3728 

Assumption, s. Assumption 3576 

Avoyelles m. Marksville 2245 

Catahoola, n. e. Catahoola 2287 

Claiborne, n. w. 

Concordia, e. n. Concordia 2626 

E. Baton Rouge, m. e. Baton Rouge 5220 

E. Feliciana, ?«. c. Jackson 

Iberville, m. s. Iberville 4414 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



527 



Parishes. 


Chief To-wns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Jefferson, s. e. 






Lafayette, s. 


Moutonville 




La Fourche Interior,s.e.Thibadeauxville 


3735 


Natchitoches, n. iv. 


Natchitoches 


7486 


Orleans, e. s. 


New Orleans 


41351 


Plaquemines, s. e. 


Plaquemines 


2354 


Point Coupee, m. 


Point Coupee 


4912 


Rapides, m. 


Alexandria 


6065 


St. Bernard, e. s. 




2635 


St. Charles, s. e. 




3862 


St. Helena, e. 


St. Helena 


3026 


St. James, m. s. 


Bringier's 


5686 


St. John Baptiste, m. 


Dubourg's 


3854 


St. Landry, s. w. 


Opelousas 


10085 


St. Martin's, s. 
St. Mary's, s. 


St Martinsville "> 
Franklin 3 


12063 


St. Tammany, e. 


Covington 


1723 


Terra Bonne, s. 






Wachitau, n. 


Monroe 


2609 


Washington, e. 


Franklinton 


2517 


W. Baton Rouge, ?n. 


C. H. 


2335 


W. Feliciana, m. 


St. Francisville 


12732 



Total, 



153,407 



Of these, were whites 73,867; free coloured per- 
sons 10,476; and slaves 60,064. Thus classified as 
to employment: engaged in agriculture, 50,045; in 
manufactures, 5797; in commerce, 6168. 

Louisiana increased nearly 80 per cent from 1810 
to 1820, and if the advance continues at the same 
ratio the aggregate will exceed 276,000 in 1830. 
When thus augmented, still the distributive popu- 
lation will fall short of 6 to the square mile. There 
is, indeed, large spaces in Louisiana which must 
always remain negative in the cultivateable area. 
The existing settlements, except the parishes of E. 
Baton Rouge W. and E. Feliciana, St. Tammany, 
Washington, and St. Helena extend in lines along 



528 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

tjie streams; or, as in Attacapas and Opelousas, in 
lines along the margin of the prairies. This state 
is, in brief, marked by peculiar features in every 
respect, which give to its natural and artificial fea- 
tures strong contrasts with any other part of the 
United States. 

History. — The first effective settlement of Lou- 
isiana was made in 1699, by a small French colony 
under the command of M. DTberville. The city 
of New Orleans was founded in 1717. In 1763 the 
whole of Louisiana was ceded to Spain, but from 
the resistance of the inhabitants, that power did not 
obtain possession until 1769. Spain retained her au- 
thority in this province until 1800, when, by a secret 
treaty, it was re-ceded to France. The state of in- 
ternal policy not admitting France to take posses- 
sion of Louisiana, it was formally ceded by treaty, 
in April 1803, and in the following December given 
up to the United States, by the French Colonial 
Prefect, Col, Laussat. 

As ceded, Louisiana contained all that is now 
comprised in the state so called, Arkansas, Missouri, 
and the illimitable regions north-westward. In 
March, 1804, Louisiana was erected into a ter- 
ritory, by the name of Orleans, with the limits 
stated at the head of this article; the residue, be- 
yond N. lat. 33°, was erected into Missouri terri- 
tory. In 1811, having acquired adequate popula- 
tion. Congress granted the inhabitants power to 
form a state constitution. In 1812, the necessary 
steps having been taken, the state of Louisiana was 
ranked in the list of independent states of the Uni- 
ted States. 



MAINE. 

Boundaries, extent and position. — Atlantic Ocean 
S., New Brunswick E., Lower Canada N. and N, 
W., and New Hampshire S. W. 



OF THE UNITED ^TATES. 529 

Miles. 

Beginning on the Atlantic Ocean at the mouth 
of Passamaqiioddy bay, thence S. W. by W. 
along the Atlantic Ocean to the mouth of Pis- 
cataqua river, 235 

Up the Piscataqua and Salmon Falls river to 
the source of the latter, 40 

Thence along the eastern boundary of New 
Hampshire, by a line inclining a little west of 
north, to the Highlands, between the sources 
of the Atlantic streams and those of the small 
confluents of St. Lawrence, 115 

Along the Highlands to a point a little above 
N. lat. 48^^ and 9° 08' E. 300 

Thence due S. along the western boundary of 
New Brunswick to the source of St. Croix 
river, 143 

Down St. Croix river and Passamaquoddy bay 
to the Atlantic Ocean and place of beginning 100 

Entire outline, 933 

The prefixed map of the northern part of Maine, 
was expressly projected and engraved, to render ap- 
parent the true relative positions in controversy be- 
tween the governments of the United States' and 
Great Britain, respecting the extension of Maine 
beyond the sources of the St. Croix river. The 
map will serve to place the geographical part of the 
question in a clear light, and deserves the more con- 
fidence as it has been constructed from original 
documents forwarded to Mr. Henry S. Tanner. 

With the limits claimed by the United States, 
Maine will reach from Gerriches Point, the N. E. 
boundary of Portsmouth harbour, at N. lat. 43° 04' 
to the sources of the Mattawaska branch of St. 
Johns river, N. lat 48, and long, from 5° 56' to 10° 
02' E. 

y y 



530 POLITICAL GEOGIIAPHY 

The greatest length of Maine is, from S. W. to 
N. E. 350; mean breadth 92; and area by the 
rhumbs, 32,194 square miles. 

Natural Geography. — Extending over 5° of lat- 
itude and differing in relative level at least 800 feet, 
Maine presents at its extremes great diversity of 
climate. The surface of this state differs essentially 
from any other part of the United States. The 
coast between Casco bay and Passamaquoddy, is 
excessively indented by long projecting points and 
by innumerable islands, between which are dischar- 
ged the fine streams of Kennebeck and Penobscot, 
with many others of less volume, affording an une- 
qualled variety of harbours. Upon this very broken 
coast is poured a tide of from 20 to 40 feet. So ex- 
cessive is the ocean swell, as to break the winter 
ice to fragments, and to preserve open the harbors 
of Maine, whilst those are closed several degrees 
more southw^ard- 

The interior of the state is a congeries of hills of 
great variety of form, without any mountain ridges 
of much elevation or mass, with intervening lakes 
and streams. With Maine, indeed, commences in 
the north east part of the United States, that lake 
section of North America, which extends to the 
utmost known northern regions of the continent. 
Though not very elevated, the interior of Maine 
rises so rapidly from the sea coast, as to preclude 
the flow of the tide far inland, though few other 
states of the United States are more completely tra- 
versed by navigable rivers. 

A very dense forest covered Maine in its natural 
state, and the settlements being yet restricted to a 
comparatively narrow zone along the sea coast, tim- 
ber constitutes the most valuable staple of the state. 
Grain is, however, cultivated to advantage, as are 
meadow grasses, ilax and orchard trees. I3y refer- 
ence to tables 42 and 45, it will be seen that the sea- 
sons of Maine must be severe, the tlicrmomcter 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 531 

having a range of 113 degrees, rising to 94^^ above 
and falling to 19^ below zero, at Eastport lat. 44° 
44'. 

Political Geography. — Portland, the principal 
city and seat of government in Maine, stands on the 
S. W. side of Casco bay, N. lat. 43° 38', Ion. 6° 44' 
E. This city contained in 1810, 7169, and in 1820, 
8531 inhabitants. The harbour is excellent, and for 
reasons already given, seldom seriously incumber- 
ed with ice. The counties of Maine are : 

Cou7ities. Chief Toivns. Pop. 1820, 

Cumberland, *. w. Poktland 49,339 

Hancock, s. Castine 31,071 

Kennebeck, m. Augusta 42,632 

Lincoln, s. Wiscasset 52,953 

Oxford, IV. Paris 27,185 

Penobscot, n. Bangor 13,931 

Somerset, n. w. Norridgewock * 21,698 

Waldo, s. Belfast 

Washington, e. Machias 12,746 

Wiscasset, s. Warren and Topsham 

York, 5. York and Alfred 46,284 



Total 297,839 

Of this aggregate engaged in Agriculture, 55,031 
do. Manufactures, 7,643 

do. Commerce, 4,297 

If the distributive population of Maine is estima- 
ted in comparison to the whole state, it would have, 
in 1820, but little exceeding 9 to the square niile ; the 
really inhabited part, being however, a zone of 230 
by 80 miles, or about 18000 square miles, the density 
of population was upwards of 16 to the square mile. 
The settlements are slowly progressing inland. 

Historij. — The first effective colonization of Maine 
was made by the English about 1635. The name 
was imposed by still earlier but transient settlers from 
France. The first charter was proprietary, and 



532 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

granted in 1639 to Sir Ferdinand Gorges. In 1652 
it was annexed to Massachusetts, under the title of 
county of Yorkshire. Maine remained virtually- 
connected with Massachusetts, but the claims of the 
family of Gorges were urged, until quieted by pur- 
chase in 1676, and included in the same charter 1691. 
From the latter epoch to their final separation in 
1820, the history of the two sections was blended. 
After some former abortive attempts to sever Maine 
and Massachusetts, leave was given by the latter to 
the freemen of the former in 1819, to decide the im- 
portant question by vote. A large majority appear- 
ing to desire separation, a constitution was formed 
and adopted, and on the 3rd of March 1820, Maine 
assumed her rank as an independent state of the 
United States. 



MARYLAND. 

Boundaries, extent and position. — The Atlantic Ocean, 
Chesapeake bay and part of Virginia S. E., other parts 
of Virginia S., S. W. and W., Pennsylvania N., and Del- 
aware E. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the Atlantic Ocean on Fenwick's Isl- 
and, thence due W. along Virginia to Ratchfl's 
Point on Chesapeake bay, 15 

Along Pocomoke bay to Watkin's Point, 20 

Over Chesapeake bay to the mouth of Potomac 

river, 20 

Up Potomac river to Washington City, 120 

Continuing up Potomac river to its extreme soui'ce, 200 
Thence due N. to the southern boundary of Penn- 
sylvania, 56 
Thence due E. along N. lat. 39° 43', and the south 

line of Pennsylvania, 200 

Thence southward to the semicircle of twelve miles 

round New Castle, 5 

Continuing S, along W. ])o\mdary of Delaware 86 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 5 33 

Miles. 
Thence due E. along- Dchiwiu'e to the Atlantic Ocean, 36 
Along" the Atlantic Ocean to tlic place of beg'inning-, 35 

Entire outlme, 773 

The extreme southern part of Maryland, on the 
eastern shore of the Chesapeake bay, is usually con- 
sidered as extending to lat. 38°, and is so laid down 
in most maps of the state; but by an original mis- 
take in the line between Virginia and Maryland on 
the eastern shore, it runs about three miles N. of 
lat. 38. The state of Maryland therefore, lies be- 
tween N. lat. 38° 03' and 39° 42', in Ion. 2° E. and 
2° 30' W. 

The area of Maryland is generally and greatly 
overrated. This exaggeration has arisen from its 
very irregular form, and from including the surface 
of Chesapeake bay. I have taken some extra trou- 
ble to obtain the true area by the rhumbs, and find 
that the land superficies is within an inconsiderable 
fraction of 10,000 square miles. 

J\^atural Geography, — All those parts of Ma- 
ryland, E. from Chesapeake, and W. from that 
bay to the head of tides, may be considered as re- 
cent alluvion. Above tide water, the surface rises, 
though not very rapidly, into hills, which reach the 
foot of the mountains. The third or mountainous 
section constitutes the western part of the state. In 
respect to the soil, much that is highly productive 
exists in each zone, but in general, the intermediate 
vallies of the mountainous part, contain the most 
productive. The limestone tracts of Frederick and 
Washington, exhibit a fertility not surpassed in the 
United States. The hilly or middle zone is very 
varied in respect to soil ; in a very limited extent 
is frequently found the extremes of sterility and 
fertility. The sea sand and river alluvial section, 
though not affording any surface equally productive 
with the calcareous parts of the western, is more 
T y 2 



534 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

uniform than the middle zone. The surface of the 
alluvial region, though not rising into hills of any- 
considerable elevation, is far from being a dead plain. 

In a state of nature, Maryland was with little ex- 
ception covered with a dense forest, composed of a 
great variety of timber, the principal genera, oak, 
hickory, pine and the liriodendron tulipifera. The 
diversity of soil, and of relative elevation, superindu- 
ces in Maryland a very extended facility of vegeta- 
ble production, from, whence the staples have been 
greatly multiplied. The positive and relative cli- 
mate may be seen by reference to tables 49, 50, 51 
and 52, pages 387 to 391. From these elements, it 
is demonstrated, that cotton may be cultivated. 
From the ascents and descents stated in table 4, 
page 70, the height of the western vallies of the state 
is shewn to exceed 800 feet, an elevation equivalent 
to two degrees of latitude. The whole cultivateable 
surface of Frederick, Washington and Alleghany 
counties, may be regarded as lying more than 500 
feet above the ocean tides; consequently, Maryland 
in respect to temperature extends through 2° 40' 
of latitude. 

The Appalachian system of mountains forms the 
western part of Maryland, and gives source to its 
most considerable river, the. Potomac. The ridges 
or chains in traversing the state, rise into a barrier 
in no place less than 2486 feet, and in many places 
exceeding 3000 feet. This mountain mass, when 
compared with others even in the United States, is 
humble, but when viewed as opposed to the forma- 
tion of canals or of roads, it swells into an object of 
stupendous magnitude, and particularly rises as a 
most formidable impediment to canal construction. 
An elevation of 2486 feet is more than equivalent to 
6 degrees of latitude, and in winter gives to the 
mountain ridges of Maryland, a temperature similar 
to that on the Atlantic Ocean in lat, 45°. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 535 

Political Geography, — Annapolis the seat of gov- 
ernment for Maryland, is situated on Severn river, 
a small confluent of Chesapeake bay, at N. lat. 39° 
03', long. 0° 33' E. and 25 miles a little E. of south 
from Baltimore, 

Though never the seat of legislation, Baltimore is 
the real capital of Maryland, and the third city in 
the United States in point of population and of com- 
mercial importance. Baltimore stands on a small 
bay at the mouth of Falls creek into Patapsco, 
About a mile below the city, the latter opens into a 
bay of from one to three miles wide, which extend- 
ing to the S. E. 12 miles, is merged in the larger 
bay of Chesapeake. The harbour is a small but 
convenient basin, admitting vessels of 18 feet 
draught. 

The city sweeps round "the head of the bay, on 
both sides of Falls creek, stretching from east to 
west full three miles. The advance of this city has 
been commensurate with the advantages of its posi- 
tion. In 1790 it contained 13,503, in 1800, 26,514, 
in 1810, 35,583, and in 1820, 62,738 inhabitants. 
Thus in 30 years, the population augmented upwards 
of four fold'. The existing numbers (Sept. 1828) no 
doubt exceed 80,000. 

The other towns of the state worthy particular 
notice are, Easton on the eastern shore in Talbot 
county, Fredericktown in Frederick county, Hagers- 
town in Washington county, and Cumberland in Al- 
leghany county 

The great Baltimore and Ohio rail road, nov/ in 
progress in Maryland, was in its original conception 
and prompt undertaking, a bold, and if successful, a 
most useful enterprise. It is intended to extend 
from Baltimore in a general westerly direction to 
the Ohio river, at some point below the mouth of 
Muskingum. It has been objected to this, as well 
other similar designs on a large or extended scale, 
that they were impracticable over great distances, but 



536 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



it would seem if we regard the intermediate gromid 
in this case, that the practicability would be more 
rationally apparent on the side of a permanent road 
than a canal. The length of the rail road will be 
between 330 and 380 miles, accordingto the point at 
which it will intersect Ohio river. 

There is already a tolerably good line of turnpike 
road from Baltimore, intersecting or rather meeting 
the United States road at Cumberland. 

For municipal and civil purposes, Maryland is sub- 
divided into the counties of : * 



Counties. 


Chief To-ivns. 


Pop. 1820, 


Alleghany, tv. 
Ann Arundel, m. w. 


Cumberland 
Annapolis 


86 

27165 


Baltimore, n. 


Baltimore 


96201 


Calvert, s. tv. 


Prince Frederick 


8072 


Caroline, E. e. 


Dehton 


10041 


Charles, s. iv. 


Port Tobacco 


16048 


Cecil, E. n. e. 


Elkton 


•16500 


Dorchester, E. s. e. 


Cambridge 


- 17755 


Frederick, n. tv. 
Hartford, n. 


Frederick (city) 
Bellair 


40459 

15924 


Kent, E. e. 


Chestertown 


11453 


Montgomery, s. iv. 
Prince Georges, s. w, 


Rockville 
. Upper Marlboro 


16400 
20216 


Queen Anne, E. e. 


Centreville 


14952 


St. Mary's, s. xv. 


Leonardstown 


12974 


Somerset, E. s. e. 


Princess Anne 


19579 


Talbot, E. m. 


Easton 


14389 


Washington, ?i. w. 
Worcester, E. s, e. 


Hagerstown 
Snow Hill 


23075 
17421 



Total 407,350 

Of the aggregate in 1820 there were whites, 260,222; 
free people of colour 39,730; and slaves 107,398. 



* Those to which E. is annexed are on the Eastern 
shore. 



OP THE UNITED STATES. 537 

Engaged in Agriculture, 79,135 

Do. Manufactures, 18,640 

Do. Commerce, 4,771 

Progressive Population. 
1790 319,728 1810 380,546 

1800 349,692 1820 407,350 

Maryland abounds, in the mountainous sections, 
with iron ore and bituminous coal. The latter ex- 
ists in immense strata near the United States road, 
a few miles west from Cumberland, and is of excel- 
lent quality. One great object of the Baltimore 
railway, is to produce an easy mode of conveying 
this invaluable fossil to the Atlantic coast. The 
western counties also contain limestone in immense 
formations or masses, one of which crosses the eas- 
tern side of Alleghany county, and is the extension of 
the great limestone range of the Kittatinny valley in 
Pennsylvania. The completion of the rail-road will 
tend to develope those inexhaustible fossil resources. 

History. — Maryland was intended as a refuge to 
the persecuted Roman Catholics, under a charter 
or grant to George Calvert Lord Baltimore, who 
died before the deed was consummated and left 
his claims to his son Cecilius Lord Baltimore, to 
whom the patent was granted, June 29th, 1632. 
The vagueness of both proprietary patents, involved 
the two colonial proprietary families of Calvert and 
Penn, in a long and intricate dispute respecting the 
boundaries of Maryland and Pennsylvania, disputes 
which arose upwards of 50 years after the actual 
settlement of Maryland, and were not finally adjust- 
ed until after the middle of the 18th century. 

In 1699 the seat of government was fixed at Anna- 
polis, where it has ever since remained. This colo- 
ny early and zealously joined and supported an op- 
position to the arbitrary proceedings of the British 
government. The constitution of this state was 
adopted August 14th, 1776, and dates next in order 
after Virginia. 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



Position, Boundaries, and Extent. — The Atlan- 
tic ocean N. E , E. and S. E., Rhode Island and Con- 
necticut south. New York west, and Vermont and 
New Hampshire north. 

Miles. 

Beginning' on the Atlantic ocean three miles N. 
of the mouth of the Merrunac river, and thence 
following the inflexions of the coast to within 
tliree miles N. E. from Seconnet Point, 270 

Thence along the eastern border of Rhode Island, 45 

Thence W. alongthe northern bomidary of Rhode 

Island, 24 

Continuing W. along northern boundary of Con- 
necticut, 83 
Do W. to the S. W. angle of the state, 2 

Thence N. N. E. along part of the eastern bound- 
ary of New York, to the southern boundary of 
Vermont, 50 

Due E. along southern boundary of Vermont, to 
Connecticut river, and S. W. angle of New- 
Hampshire, 3S 

Thence along southern boundary of New Hamp- 
shire to the place of beginning, 85 

Entire outline 597 

The general length of Massachusetts, is not easi- 
ly determined, but from Plymouth harbour on N. 
lat. 42° to the S. W. angle is about 145 miles; area 
7335 square miles; of course the mean width is about 
50 miles. Lying between lat. 41° 31', and 42° 52' 
N., and long. 3° 25' and 6° 57' E. 

JVatural Geography. — Massachusetts presents 
three distinct zones. The first towards the Atlantic 
ocean is a sea-sand alluvion, but little elevated | 
above the ocean. The eastern plain is quickly and ! 
abruptly followed by a fine hilly tract, which crosses | 
the state from north to south, and from which the | 
rivers are poured in every direction. The second ! 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 5 39 

or middle zone includes part of the beautiful valley 
of Connecticut, and is followed by the mountainous 
but highly fertile county of Berkshire, which com- 
prises the whole western part of the state. 

The eastern sandy border is the least fertile, but 
also the least extensive of the three sections. With- 
in the sandy tract the country rises by so abrupt ac- 
clivity as to prevent the tides penetrating in any 
place but a few miles. It has been already no- 
ticed that the peninsula of Cape Cod, v^hich forms 
the eastern part of this state, was the great dividing- 
limit of the Atlantic tides, and that a very rapid in- 
crease of depth was found within the bay of Massa- 
chusetts. 

Taken in one sweep of vision, the whole surface 
of this state, swells from the Atlantic counties to 
central hills, then depresses into the richly decorat- 
ed valley of Connecticut, and again rises into the 
mountain vallies of Berkshire. The soil is as vari- 
ed as the surface, presenting every quality from ste- 
rile sea sand, to river alluvion and calcareous de- 
bris, giving a very extended latitude to agricultural 
products. Westward from the first range of hills, 
the valleys possess a fine, deep, and strong soil; a 
soil improved by cultivation, to an extent equalled 
in few other sections of the United States. 

The mineral productions of this state are nume- 
rous specifically, but iron is the only ore found in 
large quantities. Marble of beautiful variety and 
texture, is found in Berkshire. Granite of excellent 
quality as a building stone, is quarried at Teign- 
mouth and Chelmsford, and brought to the sea coast 
hy the Middlesex canal. 

Massachusetts possesses eminent advantages as a 
commercial state. South-east from the Isthmus of 
Barnstable the tides are moderate, but within the 
Bay of Massachusetts, the harbours are numerous, 
deep, and spacious. Connecticut river traverses the 
central part of the state, from north to south, and 



540 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the Merrimac enters the ocean at its north-east an- 
gle. Both rivers have been made navigable far be- 
yond the limits of Massachusetts, and the Merri- 
mac connected with Boston harbour, by the Middle- 
sex canal. In the article Canals under the head of 
the United States, it will be seen, that a canal is in 
progress to open the central county of Worcester to 
Narragansett bay by Blackstone river. 

The climate of Massachusetts, from relative 
height, varies from east to west. The extremes 
differing only 1° 21' in latitude, produces but a slight 
change of temperature, but the cultivated parts of 
the county of Berkshire rising to a height from 500 
to 1000 feet, produces a marked difference of seasons, 
from those of the Hudson and Connecticut rivers on 
equal latitudes. I have seen the spring opening at 
Albany whilst snow covered the vales of Berkshire. 

Political Geography. — Boston, the capital and 
principal city of Massachusetts, stands on a hilly 
peninsula, rising between the open bay and Charles 
river, at N. lat. 42° 22^ and long. 5° 58' E. This 
fine city was founded in 1629. In 1800, it contained 
24,937, in 1810, 32,250, and in 1820, 42,526 inhabit- 
ants. The advance gives an annual increase of 586, 
and if continued, yields, at the present time, a popu- 
lation of about 47,000. 

The harbour of Boston is excellent, admitting ves- 
sels of any desirable draught of water; very seldom 
inaccessible from ice; and so narrow at the entrance 
as to be easily and effectually defended. 

The city is completely united to the adjacent 
places by numerous bridges, and with the interior 
of New Hampshire by the Merrimac canal. Good 
roads extend to the other principal towns and vil- 
lages of the state, Salem, Newburyport, Plymouth, 
Worcester, Northampton, Lenox, &c. 

Massachusetts is subdivided into the following 
counties: 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



541 



Counties. 


Chief ToTvns. 


Pop. 1820. 


liarnstable, s. < 


a 


Barnstable 


24,029 


Berkshire, lu. 




Lenox 


35,727 


Bristol, s. 




Taunton 


39,998 


Dukes, s. 




Edgartown 


3,295 


Essex, 71. e. 




Salem 


74,580 


Franklin, n. 




Greenfield 


29,289 


Hamden, s. 




Springfield 


35,727 


Hampshire, m. 


•w. 


Northampton 


28,073 


Middlesex, n. 




Cambridge 


61,677 


Nantucket, s. 




Nantucket 


7,286 


Norfolk, m. e. 




Dedham 


36,462 


Plymouth, e. 




Plymouth 


38,112 


Suffolk, e. 




Boston 


43,925 


Worcester, m. 




Worcester 


73,605 


Total 






521,725 


Of this aggregate, engaged 


[in Agriculture 


63,460 


Do 




Manufactures 


33,464 


Do 




Commerce 


13,301 




Progressivi 


e population. 






1790 


378,787 






1800 


422,845 






1810 


472,040 






1820 


521,725 





History. — The first actual colonization of Massa- 
chusetts, was made at Plymouth in 1620, but the 
first charter was granted by James I. to a company 
as early as 1606, under the name of North Virginia. 
The Plymouth Company, however, commenced 
their settlement under a written constitution ; sup- 
posed to be the first instance on record, of a go- 
vernment being formed from original elements by 
free consent of the governed, and reduced to the 
permanency of a written compact. The first regu- 
lar house of representatives was organized in 1639. 
Massachusetts was formed by the oppressions, and 



542 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

for the first 70 years of its existence, struggled 
against the arbitrary measures of the Stewart dy- 
nasty. In 1635, Charles I. interfered directly in the 
colonial government; and in 1638, a quo warranto 
was issued against the province. The revolution in 
1642, gave a momentary respite, but with the resto- 
ration, 1660, the arbitrary folly of the Stewarts was 
again felt in America, and felt vmtil 1688, when ano- 
ther revolution drove the oppressors from their 
abused power. In 1691, William and Mary granted 
a new charter, including Maine. From the latter 
period to that of the revolution in 1775, the colonial 
history of Massachusetts, though marked with many 
events of great local interest, yet affords few events 
worthy notice in a brief view. It may be truly said 
that this interesting colony was always a republic, 
and when the eventful day arrived, to meet the ven- 
geance of the parent state, Massachusetts stood the 
first and severest shock from an irritated foe, and 
through the whole contest sustained the character 
with which it entered the list of opposition, 

• The government remained under the charter un- 
til March 2nd, 1780, when a constitution was adopt- 
ed, which was amended for the last time in Novem- 
ber, 1820; Maine had become a separate and inde- 
pendent state in the previous March. See Maine. 



MICHIGAN. 

Position, Boundaries, and Extent. — The penin- 
sula of Michigan is bounded W. and N. W. by Lake 
Michigan, N. by the Straits of Michilimakinak, N. 
E. by Lake Huron, E. by St. Clair river. Lake St. 
Clair, Detroit river, and Lake Erie, S. E. by the 
state of Ohio, and S. W, by Indiana. 

Begiuning on Lake Michigan, where that lake is 
intersected by the northern boundary of Indiana, 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 543 

Miles. 

thence along Michigan and Straits of Michtli- 

makinak into Lake Huron, 260 

On Lake Huron, ^ 250 

River St. Clair, Lake St. Clair, Detroit river, and 

Lake Erie, to the northern boundary of Ohio, 136 

Along the north boundary of Ohio to the east 

boundary of Indiana, 80 

Due N. along east boundary of Indiana, 10 

Thence due W. along north boundary of Indiana 

to Lake Michigan and point of outset 110 

Having an outlme of 846 

Extending from N. lat. 41° 35', to N. lat. 45° 20', and 
in long, from 5° 20' to 9° 53' W.; area 34,000 square 
nules. 

The preceding is that tongue of land which stretches 
noi-thward from Indiana and Ohio, and is particularly 
designated the Territory of Michigan; but for temporary 
purposes, the United States government has connected 
with the peninsxda an immense region, improperly call- 
ed the N. W. Territory, towards the sources of the Mis- 
sissippi, and embraced within the following boundaries. 

Miles. 
The Trans-Michigan part of the territory has an 
interior limit on the state of Illinois, along N. 
lat. 42° 30', 210 

Up the Mississippi to its source, and thence to 

the head of Red river branch of Assiniboin, 700 

Down Red river to N. lat. 49°, 300 

Along N. lat. 49° to the river Rain, 150 

Up Rain river to its source, 150 

Down Fox river to Lake Superior, 100 

Along the N. W., W., and S. shores of Lake Su- 
perior, and St. Mary's river, to the Straits of 
Michilimakinak, 650 

Mong Green Bay and Lake Michigan, 350 

Having an outline of 2610 



S44 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

This very extensive tract stretches from N. lat. 
42° 30' to 49°, and in long, from 9° to 22° W. 

Area, 140,000 square miles, equal to 89,600,000 
acres, to which if we add the peninsular part we have 
174,000 square miles, or 111,360,000 acres. 

From the N. E. angle of the state of Illinois to the 
N. W. angle of Trans-Michigan, the territory is 650 
miles long. The breadth is very irregular, but ave- 
rages about 200 miles. 

JVatural Geography. — The peninsular part is the 
only section on which any considerable settlements 
have been made, and is therejfore the only part very 
correctly delineated. The outer margin on the 
lakes and rivers is one continued declining selvedge. 
This gently rising border is followed in the interior 
by an extended plain; the whole resting on seconda- 
ry strata. From the flat, and in many places marshy 
interior, the numerous rivers ooze, gaining current 
in their advance towards their recipients, and are 
generally precipitated over falls before reaching 
their point of discharge. The Michigan cataracts 
are humble as to their elevation, and are occasioned 
by the outer projection of the underlaying strata. 

In a state of nature, the peninsula of Michigan 
was coyered, with partial exceptions, by a very 
heavy forest. The soil is deep and strong. The 
climate superinduces, when combined with the proxi- 
mity to the extensive lakes of Huron, Michigan and 
Erie, the excessive growth of grasses, and of course 
the production of grain. 

The actual elevation of the interior part above the 
lakes, has never been accurately determined, but 
may be assumed at from 100 to 300 at most, there- 
fore but trifling change of temperature can arise 
from relative level. The winters are, however, long 
and severe. By reference to the tables under the 
head of climate, it will be seen that the extreme 
range of the thermometer at Fort Brady and Green 
Bay, evinces excessive vicissitudes of temperature. 



OF THE UNITED STATES* 545 

That uniformity of surface, so remarkable on the 
peninsula, is in great part continued in the much 
more wide-spread Trans-Michigan region. Hills of 
some elevation do arise between the Mississippi river 
and lakes Michigan and Erie, but the general sur- 
face is level, and towards the sources of Mississippi 
and Red rivers, a dead and partially inundated fiat 
presents itself. 

The climate is here in a peculiar manner severe. 
This excessive cold is produced by a combination of 
causes. The surface of that part of the continent, 
from which the Mississippi draws its sources, is ele- 
vated above the Atlantic tides at least 1300 feet, or 
equivalent to four degrees of latitude ; of course the 
north west part of Trans-Michigan, is exposed to a 
temperature equal to that of lat. 53° on the ocean, 
Again,this elevated region is exposed, utterly unshel- 
tered, to^^the prevailing winds from that interminable 
table land stretching into the unknown regions of 
frost. To every other cause of an excess of winter 
cold on the plains of north-western Michigan, may 
be added the want of timber in many places of great 
extent. 

The local features are yet so imperfectly explored 
as to preclude minute description, and except the 
highly picturesque shores of Lake Superior, a dull 
monotony prevails over what has been examined. 

Political Geography. — Detroit, the capital of Mi- 
chigan, stands on the right or western bank of De- 
troit river, 18 miles above its entrance into Lake 
Erie, at N. lat. 42° 25', Ion. 5° 50' W. This city is 
yet small, population about 3000, but is the only 
town of any note yet built in North America, north- 
Avest from Buffalo. With a few villages in Canada, 
this vicinity is the centre of the out-post of civiliza- 
tion. 

Settlements are extending, and military establish- 
ments have long existed at Green Bay, Michilimaki- 
nak, and Sault St. Mary. The latter was the last in 
z z 2 



S46 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

chronological order, and was formed by Col. Brady 
July 17th, 1822, and is the most advanced post of the 
United States to the N. W. 

( The folloiving list of Counties, JV. W. Ter.,is an- 
nexed to those of the north-west or Trans. Michi- 
gan Territory. J 

Counties. Chief toivns. Pop- 1820. 

Brown, (N. W. Ter.) Green Bay 952 

Chippewa,(N.W.Ter.) Sault de St. Marie • 
Crawford, (N.W.Ter.) Prairie de Chiens 492 

Lapeer, m. e. 



Lenervie, s. e. 


Tecumseh 




Macomb, e. 


Mount Clemens 


898 


Michilimakinak 


Mackinac • 


819 


Monroe, s. e. 


Monroe 


1831 


Oakland, e. 


Pontiac 


330 


Saginaw, m. 






St.' Clair, e. 


St. Clair 




Sanilac, e. 






Shiawassee, m. 






Washtenaw, s.e. 


Ann Arbour 




Wayne, e, s. 


Dktroit 


3574 



Total 8896 

Thus we are taught the appalling fact that in 1820, 
on 140,000 square miles, there existed only one civ- 
ilized human being on 16 square miles. What a void 
on a space on which a distributive population of 10 
to the square mile would yield an aggregate of 
1,400,000 inhabitants! This is one of the many facts 
to show that the continent of North America is only 
commencing to be peopled. 

History. — Detroit was founded about 1670, by the 
French, but remained a mere trading post, and in 
1763, was ceded with other ]>arts of Canada to the 
British government. It was included in the limits of 
the United States by tlie trcatv of 1783, but not actu- 
ally gi\cn up by the British until 1796, The terri- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 547 

tory of Michigan was formed in 1805. The city of 
Detroit and the adjacent territory was taken by a 
British army, August 1812, but retaken the ensuing 
year by the United States troops under Gen. Harri- 
son; since which epoch the settlements have slowly 
and securely progressed. The population it is pro- 
bable has more than doubled since the last census. 



MISSISSIPPI. 

Position, boundaries, and extent. — Tennessee N., 
Alabama E., Gulf of Mexico S. E., State of Louisia- 
na S. W., and Mississippi river W. 

Miles. 
Beginning at the mouth of Pearl river, and thence 

up that stream to N. lat. 31° 63 

Thence due W. along Louisiana, to the left bank 

of Mississippi river, 105 

Up Mississippi river, to the S. W. corner of the 

"state of Tennessee, • 530 

Thence due E. along N.lat. 35°, and the southern 

boundary of Tennessee, 90 

Thence southwardly along the western boundary 

of Alabama to the Gulf of Mexico, 320 

Along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico to the 

mouth of Pearl river, 80 

Having an entire outline of 1185 

Extending from N. lat. 30° 08', to N. lat. 35°, and in 
long, from 11° 05' to 14° 26' W. 

Length from north to south, 538 miles. The area 
of this state has never been very accurately deter- 
mined. Measured by the rhumbs on Tanner's 
map, it comprises a small fraction above 51,000 square 
miles, with a mean width of 150 miles; equal to 
32,640,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — So much has already been 
said of the rivers of the United States, that a brief 
notice of them is only necessary under the respective 



548 POLITICAL GEOGKAPHY 

heads of the mdividual states. The state of Missis- 
sippi is washed on its western border by the Missis- 
sippi; the Tennessee river touches the N. E. angle, 
and the sources of Tombeckbee, Pascagoula, Pearl, 
Amite, Homochitto, and Yazoo, drain the interior 
sections. 

Rejecting the islands of the Gulf of Mexico, as 
too inconsiderable for notice, the soil of Mississippi 
is divisible into three very distinct portions. First, 
the alluvial borders of the rivers; second, the bluffs 
adjacent to the Mississippi overflow; and third, pine 
forest land. The fiat margin of the Mississippi on 
the left or east bank, though equally fertile, is less 
valuable than similar soil on the opposing side. This 
diiference is produced by the bluffs, or hills of the 
state of Mississippi, confining the surplus water, and 
consequently subjecting the river border lands to 
more frequent and more durable inundation, than 
takes place on the west side where the waters are 
freely drained into the remote sv/amps and outlets. 

Rising from the Mississippi alluvion, the bluffs are 
followed by a very waving, but a most productive 
country. This band or^one, commences in Louisia- 
na, as low down as Iberville, and with the mere in- 
terruptions of the streams stretches into Tennessee, 
with a greater or less width from 10 to 30 or 40 
miles. It may be doubted, whether, every thing 
considered, the bluff zone of Mississippi is exceeded 
in intrinsic value by any other tract in the United 
States. In its natural state, and so in great part it 
still continues, this region was covered with a heavy 
forest, of which generically oak, hickory, laurel,mag- 
nolia, sweet gum, ash, maple, liriodendron tulipifera, 
and pine, were most prevalent, with a great variety 
of vines and underwood. 

In the primitive settlements near Natchez, tobac- 
co, indigo, and cotton, have been successively staples, 
and all produced luxuriantly. The latter vegetable 
has prevailed within the last 30 years. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 549 

Small grain could no doubt be plentifully cultiva- 
ted, but the only species of cerealia much attended 
to is Indian corn. Meadows and orchards are ne- 
glected, although the climate and soil invite the fos- 
tering of both those pursuits of agriculture. The 
peach and fig are, however, abundant. Gardens are 
when duly managed extremely productive ; but hor- 
ticulture, like meadows and orchards, is neglected. 

Much of excellent land exists along the streams 
over the whole state, and when brought under culti- 
vation, productive in similar vegetables with the bluff 
lands I have noticed. 

The pine forest, and other interval land, of vari- 
ous but inferior quality, constitute much the greater 
part of the surface of the state, and will preclude a 
dense population except in detached places, unless 
objects of culture can be introduced suitable to the 
now useless soils. Will not the vitis vinifera supply 
this desideratum ? 

The metallic productions of this state deserve no 
particular notice. 

What has been said in respect to climate under 
the head of Alabama, may be repeated with regard 
to the state of Mississippi, except, that being more 
exposed to the winds of the N. W. the temperature 
of the latter is lower than that of the former in win- 
ter. Neither sugar cane nor the orange can be cul- 
tivated above lat. 31°, nor even below that curve to 
any advantage in the state of Mississippi. The 
winters are very unequal in point of temperature, 
and often severe in the vicinity of Natchez. Snow, 
more or less, occurs annually, and the theraiometer 
has shown a depression of the mercury to 12° above 
zero. 

Political Geography. — Natchez is not the seat of 
government, but is by far the most important town 
of the state. It is situated on a series of hills, about 
half a mile from the bank of the Mississippi, N, lat. 
31° 33', and long. 14° 30' W. The site of the town 



550 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

is waving, and though so near is not visible from the 
Mississippi, above which it is elevated about 100 feet, 
with a steep intervening bluff. Population, 1810, 
was 1511, and in 1820 had risen to 2184. There is 
certainly no other town in the United States the real 
importance of which so greatly exceeds the extent 
of its buildings or number of inhabitants. In com- 
mon years from 30 to 40 thousand bales of cotton 
are exported from this city, and the commercial bu- 
siness carried on is on an equally large scale. 

Washington, six miles E. from Natchez, is a pleas- 
ant, but inconsiderable place; and a similar remark 
as to size applies to every other village of the state, 
including Jackson, the seat of government. 

The most improved and best populated section of 
this state is the S. W. angle. It was here that the 
original colonization was made, and where exists the 
most extensive continuous body of productive soil. 
Settlements are extending into the south-eastern and 
central parts; the northern remains in possession of 
the Choctaw and Chickasaw Indians. 

Counties. 

Adams, tv. s. 
Amite, s. w. 
Claiborne, w. 
Copiah, m, e. 
Covington, m. s. 
Pranklin, s, w. 
Greene, e. s. 
Hancock, s. 
Hinds, w. 
Jackson, s. e. 
Jefferson, iv. s. 
.Tones, m. s. 
I-awrence, w?. s. 
Madison, e, 
Marion, s. 
Monroe, e. it. 
Perry, s. e. 



Chief towns. 


Pofi. 1820. 


Natchez 


12,073 


Liberty 


6853 


Port Gibson 


5963 


Gallatin 




Williamsburg 


2230 


Meadville 


3821 


Greene C. H. 


1445 


Shieldsboro 


1594 


Jackson 




Jackson C. H. 


1682 


Fayette 


6822 


EUisville 




Monticello 


4916 


Madisonville 




Columbia 


3116 


Hamilton 


2721 


Augusta 


2037 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 551 



Counties. 


Chief totms. 


Pop, 1830. 


Pike, s. 


Holmesville 


4438 


Rankin, w. 


Yazoo 




Simpson, m. s. 


Westville 




Warren, w. 


Vicksburgh 


2693 


Washington, m. s. 


New Mexico 




Wayne, e. 


Winchester 


3323 


Wilkinson, s. w. 


Woodville 


9718 


Yazoo, w. 


Benton 




Total, 


75,448 


Of these, engaged 


L in Agriculture 


22,033 


do. 


Manufactures 


650 ' 


do. 


Commerce 


294 



History, — The first actual settlement of whites 
was made by the French at Natchez about 1716 or 
1718. This colony, amounting to about 500 persons, 
was massacred by the Indians in 1729. White es- 
tablishments were partially renewed, but the coun- 
try remained in great part a wilderness until after 
1763, when the whole of Florida was ceded to the 
British. The country as high as the Yazoo river 
was, soon after, surveyed, and very respectable set- 
tlements formed along the fine bluff region above 
and below Natchez. As far as lat. 31° was included 
in the limits of the United States by the treaty of 
1783, but being overrun by the Spaniards in the re- 
volutionary war, it remained in their possession until 
1798. In 1800, all that is now comprised in Missis- 
sippi and Alabama, was formed into a territory by 
the name of Mississippi territory. March 1st, 1817, 
the western part was authorised by act of Congress, 
to form a constitution, which was done in conven- 
tion, the ensuing July, and in December, 1817, Mis- 
sissippi became a state of the United States, 



552 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

MISSOURI. 

Position, boundaries i and extent. — Bounded N. E. and 
S. E. by the Mississippi river, S. by the territory of Ar- 
kansas, and W. and N. by the Western unappropriated 
territory of the United States. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the Mississippi, at the mouth of Le- 
moine river, and thence down the former to N.lat. 
36° 550 

Thence due W. to the right bank of St. Francis river 50 
Down St. Francis to N. lat. 36° 30' 50 

Thence due W. along the northern boundary of Ar- 
kansas to a point where a meridian Hne from the 
junction of Missouri and Kansas rivers intersects 
N. lat. 36° 30' 200 

Thence due N. to a point where a line extended 
due W. from the Sac village, on Lemoine river, 
will intersect the western boundary 273 

Thence due E. to the Lemoine river 130 

Down Lemoine river to the place of outset 20 

Having an entire outline of 1273 

Mean length from N. to S. 280 miles, area rather ex- 
ceeding 63,000 square miles; but adopting that superfi- 
cies, the mean width, E. and W., will be 225 miles; the 
whole containing 40,320,000 acres. Extending from N. 
lat. 36° to 40° 36', and in long, from 11° 47' to 17° 32' W. 
JVatural Geograjihy. — Though, with the excep- 
tion of the alluvial bottoms of the rivers, Missouri is 
rolling or hilly, yet no part rises to an elevation de- 
serving the name of mountains. A chain of hills 
commences south-east from the mouth of Osage 
river, and stretching south-west is the incipient be- 
ginning of the Ozark or Masserne chain, but re- 
mains humble until far within Arkansas. No other 
state of the United States is, however, so greatly 
diversified in respect to soil and external features. 
The prairie region, commencing in Ohio and Indi- 
ana, spreading into immense plains in Illinois, ex- 
pands still more in western Missouri. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 553 

To a civilized and commercial people, rivers are, 
of all objects in nature, the most important. In most 
places the far greater part of the most fertile and 
most easily cultivated soil is on the banks of rivers; 
where also rise the most extensive and wealthy ci- 
ties. In regard to rivers there is perhaps no other 
equal section of the earth to compare with Missouri. 
The Mississippi sweeps its mighty volume along the 
eastern border 550 miles, receiving, near mid-dis- 
tant, the still more majestic Missouri. The latter 
entering the western boundary traverses the state, 
receiving from each side tributaries which, if not 
contrasted with the overwhelming mass into which 
they are poured and lost, would deserve the title of 
fine rivers. The Osage, rising in the angle between 
Arkansas and Kansas rivers, on the vast plains west 
from the state of Missouri, carries its very serpen- 
tine but navigable volume into Missouri river near 
the centre of the state. 

Illinois and Ohio, though not within, are in a com- 
mercial point of view rivers of Missouri. The 
White and St. Francis rise in this state, and flowing 
southward connect it with Arkansas. 

The soil is as varied as is the surface; every qua- 
lity is found from the most productive and exhaust- 
less alluvion to sterile clay or silicious sand. On the 
eastern border, and near the streams generally, a 
dense forest covered Missouri; but even here, in 
some places, naked prairie encroaches upon the 
streams. I may here apprize the reader that there 
is a strong pre-disposition in the mind to exaggerate 
the comparative extent of prairie over woodland. 
Entering on a prairie where the view is in one or 
more directions limited only by the horizon, an idea 
of vastness is involuntary. I have seen in public 
documents, respecting Louisiana, the prairie esti- 
mated at two- thirds of the whole surface; whilst, 
in fact, much more than nine-tenths of the surface 
is at this moment under a dense untouched forest. 
A a a 



554 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

It is from a knowledge of this natural propensity, 
that I am incredulous when I either read or hear 
comparisons made between the extent of prairie and 
forest. It is from this natural cause that the breadth 
of rivers, distances at sea, and the comparative 
quantity of cleared land in a cultivated country, are 
almost invariably over-rated. 

Missouri is divisible into three sections in regard 
to soil. In general terms the south-east section is 
alluvial, and liable to partial annual inundation; the 
south-western is mixed prairie and " Flint Hill" 
land. The northern section, west from the Missis- 
sippi, and north from the Missouri, says Mr. Flint, 
*' is no where mountainous. It contains great tracts 
of alluvial and hilly prairies. It is for the most part 
a surface delightfully rolling and variegated. There 
is no part of the globe where greater extents of 
country can be traversed more easily, and in any di- 
rection, by carriages of any description, where there 
are no roads, and that is yet in a state of nature."* 

These three portions have each their appropriate 
features, but each are interspersed with minor tracts 
partaking of the general character of the others. 
According to Mr. Flint there is a specific difference 
between the alluvion of the two great rivers Mis- 
sissippi and Missouri; the bottoms of Missouri 
being more loamy and sandy, and those of its rival 
more clayey, and" yet more substantial. The whole 
state will, indeed, with no very great exceptions, 
support a dense population. The geographical ex- 
tent of the state, and the very great diversity of soil, 
•will admit a correspondent variety of vegetable pro- 
duction. Wheat and Indian corn have been from 
the original settlement the staples, though in the S. 
E. section cotton is produced. 

Agriculture in all its forms, either as an art or a 
science, is in its infancy in Missouri, as it may be 
considered in any newly settled country where na- 
ture has done too much. If we return, however, to 

* Flint's Western States, Vol. ii. p. 64. 



OF THE UNITED STATES., 555 

that very essential element the climate, we shall 
find that Missouri rises above the region of cotton. 
Enough has been given in this View to decide the 
severity and length of winter in Missouri. Three 
winters in five the Mississippi becomes passable on 
the ice at St. Louis. In 1818, it was so for upwards 
of two months. It is in this state that the frigid 
winds of the N. W. are first experienced in all their 
force receding from the Atlantic. The climate is in 
brief, cold and windy, as well as dry and bracing. 
The successive years also vary exceedingly, and un- 
certain as are the revolutions in meteorology else- 
where, they are proverbially variant in the state of 
Missouri and adjacent regions. 

The indigenous forest trees of Missouri are spe- 
cifically the same found in the middle region of the 
Mississippi basin generally, but with perhaps great- 
er variety on a given spot, and the Juglans peccan, 
and some other trees rarely found east of the Mis- 
sissippi river. 

This state has become in an especial manner 
noted for immense deposits of lead ore, chiefly of 
the species called Galena. The principal lead re- 
gion is in Washington county and parts adjacent, 
extending about 30 by 15 miles. The central part 
about 70 miles S. W. from St. Louis. Detached 
bodies of ore are found from White to Missou- 
ri river. The ore is found merely imbedded in 
masses, and evidently a deposit. None has yet been 
found in situ, though some of the diggings have 
reached to 80 feet. 

Coal in immense strata also exists in Missouri, and 
at some future period must greatly exceed in value 
the lead mines. In a country of intense winter and 
and scarcity of wood, coal mines must be a resource 
of most primary importance. 

Iron ore forms no inconsiderable part of the entire 
mass of many of the hills of Missouri, but as this 
invaluable mineral is found almost every where, its 



556 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

existence here, though highly advantageous, gives 
but little local preference. 

With all its resources combined, Missouri is a tru- 
ly desirable section of the United States, and what 
may at the first glance create astonishment in many 
minds, it will be the most central state of the Union, 
when the entire basin of Mississippi is peopled, and 
subdivided into organized states. 

Political Geography. — St. Louis has ceased to 
be the seat of legislation, but continues the real 
commercial capital of the state. This city stands 
on an alluvial deposit, rising by a gentle acclivity 
from the water, the whole resting on a mass of 
secondary limestone, which, forming at this place 
the bank of the Mississippi, seems to underlay that 
stream. The buildings extend from the margin of 
the river to the brow of the bank, beyond which the 
country extends in level and mostly open prairie. The 
main streets are nearly parallel to the river and 
one stretches about a mile in length. This city dates 
back to 1764, but previous to its becoming a town 
of the United States its progress was very slow. 
In 1803, when it passed under the authority of the 
United States, the population fell short of 1000; in 
1816 the inhabitants amounted to 2000; in 1820 they 
had increased to 4598, and at this epoch, 1828, can- 
not fall much, if any, short of 10,000. It is with 
every limitation, next to New Orleans, the largest 
city on the margin of the Mississippi, Lat. 38° 46' 
N., long. 12° 58' W. 

After St. Louis, the principal towns of Missouri 
are St. Genevieve with about 1500 inhabitants, 
Jackson with 500, Herculaneum 500, St. Charles 
1200, Franklin 1200, and Jefferson on the south side 
of Missouri about 20 miles above the influx of Osage, 
and now the seat of government of the state. 



Counties, 


Chief towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Boone, in. 


Columbia 


5963 


Callaway, m. 


Fulton 





OF THE UNITED STATES. 



557 



Counties. 
Cape Girardeau, 
Chariton, n. 
Clay, n. w. 
Cole, m. 
Cooper, m. w. 
Franklin, m. e. 
Gasconade, to. 
Howard, to. w. 
Jefferson, e. 
Jackson, to. a. 
Lafayette, -w. 
Lincoln, e. 
Madison, s. e. 
Marion, e. n. 
Montgomery, m. t 
New Madrid, s. e. 
Perry, e. s. 
Pike, e. n. 
Ralls, n. e. 
Ray, n. w. 
Saint Charles, e. 
Saint Francis, e. 
St. Genevieve, e. 
St Louis, e. 
Saline, to. io. 
Scott, s. e. 
Washington, e. 
AVayne, s. 

Total 66,586 

Of these, were whites 55,988; free persons of colour 
Z7&; and slaves 10,222. 

Engaged in Agriculture 13,559 

Do Manufactures 1,887 

Do Commerce 480 

History. — Though discovered by the French 
about 1674, the first civilized settlements were not 
made in Missouri until after the treaty of Paris, 
A a a 2 



Chief To-wnt. 


Pop. 1820, 


Jackson 




Chariton 




Liberty 




Marion 




Boonsville 


6959 


Union 


2379 


Fayette 


13426 


Herculaneum 


1835 


Independence 




Lexington Hill 




Alexandria 


1662 


Fredericktown 


2047 


Palmyra 




Lewistown 


4075 


New Madrid 


2296 


Perryville 




Bowling Green 


3747 


New London 




Richmond 




St. Charles 


3970 


Farmington 




St. Genevieve 


4962 


St. Louis 


10049 


Walnut Farm 




Benton 




Potosi 


2769 


Greenville 


1443 



558 POLITICAL GEOGKAPHi' 

1763. The first establishments were formed at Ge- 
nevieve, under a mining company, "Pierre La 
Clade, Maxan^ & Co." St. Louis was founded 1764, 
and St. Charles, on Missouri, in 1780, but previous 
to the cession to the United States the Missouri set- 
tlements languished. In 1803 the salutary revolu- 
tion was effected, and in 1804, by the separation of 
the territory of Orleans, now Louisiana, Missouri, 
became a territory. After some abortive attempts, 
arising from the question whether slavery be ad- 
mitted or not, Missouri was, at the session of Con- 
gress 1819—20, authorised to forni a constitution, 
under certain conditions; the constitution was form- 
ed, and conditions being complied with, on August 
10th, 1821, Missouri became a state of the United 
States. 



NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 

Position, boundaries, and extent. — Atlantic ocean 
S. E.; Massachusetts S. ; Vermont W.; Canada N., 
and Maine E. 

Miles. 
This state merely touches and is washed by the At- 
lantic ocean 20 
Thence along N. boundary of Massachusetts 80 
Up Connecticut river, opposite Vei-mont 170 
The boundary between New-Hampsliire and Low- 
er Canada remains unfixed, but is about 50 
In common with Maine to tlie mouth of the Pisca- 

taqua river into the Atlantic ocean 150 

Having an entire outline of 470 

Extending from N. lat. 42° 41' to 45° 11', and in long, 
from 4° 22' to 6° 09' E. 

The mean length of N^w-Hampshire is very near- 
ly that of its difference of lat. 21 degrees, or about 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 559 

174 statute miles; area 8700 square miles, and mean 
breadth 50 miles. 

JVatural Geography. — This state on a narrow ex- 
tent differs more in relative elevation than any other 
state of the Union, and of course the mean and ex- 
treme temperature are in correspondent excess. 
The Atlantic border is generally a sandy beach, but 
followed by so rapid a rise in the surface of the inte- 
rior country as to arrest the tides within 20 miles 
from the ocean. The mountains of the state are 
central with a zone of finely diversified hill and dale 
country around. Grand Monadnoc rises to an eleva- 
tion of 3254; Moosehillock to 4636; but some of the 
summits of White Mountains approach or attain to 
7300, and are considerably the most elevated moun- 
tain masses of the Appalachian system. 

As a whole the physiognomy of New-Hampshire 
is bold, prominent, and often sublime. Amid a very 
rugged exterior, this state possesses comparatively, 
its full share of productive soil. The mountains and 
hills abound in majestic timber, together with mine- 
ral treasures, particularly iron. Those resources 
are rendered available by the Connecticut, and more 
particularly the Merrimac river. By the latter and 
the Middlesex canal the harbour of Boston is open 
to tlie centre of the state. 

New-Hampshire is a country of grain, fruits, pas- 
turage and lumber. Here we reach the complete 
region of luxuriant meadow grass. The winters are 
however long, and with an Alpine severity of tem- 
perature. The thermometer at Keene in the south- 
western part of the state, has sunk to 24 below 
zero. 

Political Geografihy. — The seat of government 
for this state is Concord, a town of secondary com- 
mercial importance, in Merrimac county. It stands 
on the right bank of Merrimac river, at N. lat. 43° 
12', long. 5° 30' E. The population of the township 
1820, 2830. 



560 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

The commercial capital of the state is Portsmouth, 
situated on the south bank of Piscataqua river, 
about 3 miles from the open Atlantic ocean. The 
harbour is proverbially excellent, and from the ex- 
cessive tides very seldom impeded and never alto- 
gether closed by ice. The main entrance has from 
8 to 10 fathoms, of course admits vessels of the lar- 
gest class of commerce or war. N. lat. 43*' 04', Ion. 
6° 13' E. 

The other towns will be found following their re- 
spective counties. 



Counties. 


Chief toivns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Cheshire, s. w. 


Keene 


45,2r6 


Coos, 71. 


Lancaster 


5,549 


Grafton, w. 


C Haverhill 1 
^ Plymouth, > 
Amherst 


32,989 


Hillsborough, s. 


53,884 


Merrimac, m. 


COJS^COBD 




Rockingham, s. e 


C Portsmouth 7 
• ^Exeter 5 


55,246 


Stafford, e. 


Dover, and Guilford 


51,146 


Sullivan, w. 


Newport 




Total 


244,155 


Of the foregoing j 


iggregate, engaged in 






Agriculture 


52,385 




Manufactures 


8,699 




Commerce 


1,088 



Population to the square mile 30. 

History. — The original settlement of New-Hamp- 
shire under the far more elegant name Laconia, 
was made under a proprietary grant to John Mason, 
1621. In 1622 a second grant was made to Mason 
and Sir Ferdinand Gorges. To this latter conflict- 
ing grant New-Hampshire stands indebted for her 
separate existence. In 1623, the first attempt was 
made at the formation of a regular establishment 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 561 

near the Piscataqua. The colonization was, how- 
ever, confused and slow, the Massachusetts colony- 
claimed a part of the country, and to superinduce 
still more intricacy, the Indians in 1629, were prevail- 
ed on to make what was known as "Wheelwright's 
Grant," and in the same year Mason obtained from 
the Plymouth company a new grant, to which for 
the first time the name of New-Hampshire was 
given. Misery and misgovernment were the fruits 
of these opposing grants, and forced the inhabitants 
under the protection of Massachusetts in 1640. The 
two colonies continued connected until 1679, when 
New-Hampshire in consequence of the claims of the 
Mason family, was made a royal government with a 
house of assembly chosen by the people. The vexa- 
tious claims of the representatives of Mason continu- 
ed to distract the province until 1747, when they 
were quieted for ever by purchase. But trouble- 
some as they were, it is more than probable, had 
Massachusetts done with the heirs of Mason in New- 
Hampshire, what it did with those of Gorges in 
Maine, that New-Hampshire would have remained 
an integral of Massachusetts. 

Except distressing wars with the savages, the 
history of New-Hampshire continued unproductive 
of many events of historic importance. One of the 
first legislative attempts at entire separation from 
Great Britain was made in New-Hampshire, in the 
June previous to the declaration of independence, 
1775. A temporary constitution was formed, and 
this state sustained its full share in the dangers, 
glory, and fruits of the revolution. The existing 
constitution was adopted on the second Wednesday 
of February, 1792. Since the latter epoch the ad- 
vance of this state has b.een steady, calm and pros- 
perous. The existing population it is probable 
considerably exceeds 270,000. 



562 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

NEW-JERSEY. 

Position, boundaries and extent. — Bounded by the 
Atlantic ocean E. and S. E.; Delaware bay S. W. ; 
Pennsylvania W. j and New-York N,, and N. E. 

Miles. 

New- Jersey has a boundary on the Atlantic ocean 

from Cape May to Sandy Hook 120 

An interior limit opposite New- York, along Rari- 
tan bay, Staten Island Sound, New- York bay, 
and Hudson river 60 

In common with New-York from Hudson to Dela- 
ware river 45 

Thence down Delaware river and bay to Cape 

May 220 

Having an entire outline of 445 

. Extending from N. lat. 38° 55' to 41° 21^ and in long, 
from 1° 28' to 3° 06'.* Extreme length is directly from 
south to north 170 miles. Area 7870 square miles? mean 
breadth 46 miles. 

J\''atural Geography. — New- Jersey presents three 
very marked divisions of soil; first, sea-sand alluvi- 
on; second, hilly or middle section; and thirdly, the 
mountainous or northern section. 

The first or sea-sand alluvion occupies nearly one 
half the area of the state. A line from the mouth 
of Shrewsbury river to Bordentown, will very near- 
ly separate the sea sand alluvial from the hilly tract. 
Between this natural limit and the continuation of the 
Blue Ridge, New- Jersey is delightfully variegated 
by rich and bold scenery. This hilly region con- 
tains the counties of Middlesex, Hunterdon, Somer- 
set, Essex, Morris, and Bergen. This fine section is 
also decorated by several mountain ridges, but the 
true mountain portion of Ne*w-Jersey is the extreme 
northern part of the state, composed of the counties 
of Warren and Sussex, 

* Gordon's map of N. Jersey. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 563 

The descent from the mountain to the hilly region 
is not by gentle declivity but abrupt like the steps of 
a stair. The relative elevation of the different sec- 
tions, has not been very accurately determined, but 
the higher vallies of Sussex county must be from 
800 to 1000 feet above tide water. I have myself 
been witness to the destructive effects of early frost 
at Newtown in Sussex county, whilst no symptom of 
such a phenomenon appeared in the vicinity of Som- 
erville, in a difference of almost half a degree of lati- 
tude. 

Declining from north to south, difference of lati- 
tude and level co-operate in New- Jersey, and in a 
difference less than 2^ degrees of the former a'very 
remarkable change of climate is perceptible. The 
level sandy plains of the southern extreme approxi- 
mate to the temperature of eastern Virginia, and 
admit the cultivation of cotton, whilst the seasons of 
Warren and Sussex counties resemble those of Ver,- 
mont and Nevz-Hampshire. 

This state, rich in iron ore and so much diversified 
in soil and climate, abounds in a great variety of sta- 
ples. It has the two large and increasing cities of 
New-York and Philadelphia on her borders. The 
staples of New-Jersey are composed of every pro- 
duct of her woods, mines, fields, fisheries and manu- 
factories. Taken in every respect, it may be doubted 
whether this state is not the most advantageously 
situated of any political subdivision of the United 
States. The peculiar local facilities by rivers and 
canals may be seen by reference to the physical 
notices in Chap. V., and under the head of canals in 
Ghap. XII. 

Political Geography, — The principal cities or 
towns of New- Jersey, as elsewhere on the Atlantic 
slope, have risen on the margin of the primitive and 
head of the tides. Trenton, Princeton, New-Bruns- 
wick, Somerville, Elizabethtown and Newark, are 
ranged from the lower falls of Delaware at Trenton, 



564 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

towards the first great breach in the primitive rocks 
at New- York. 

Trenton the seat of legislation for the state, and 
seat of justice of Hunterdon county, stands on the 
left bank of Delaware river, above the influx of As- 
sanpink creek, and at the head of the tide, 30 miles 
N.E. from Philadelphia ; N. lat. 40° 13', long, 2° 
19' E. Pop. 1820, 3942. 

Though dignified by the name of capital, Trenton 
does not contain much above one half the population 
or wealth of either New-Brunswick or Newark. 
The former stands on the right bank of the Raritan 
river, on the line between Middlesex and Somerset 
counties, and at the head of the tide. Pop. 1820, 
6764. Newark is situated on an alluvial plain on the 
right bank of Passaick river, and 9 miles directly 
W. from the city of New- York, N. lat. 40° 44', long. 
2° 50' E. Pop. 1820, 6507. 



Counties, 


Chief to-anis. 


Pop. 1820. 


Bergen, n. e. 


Hackensack 


18,178 


Burlington, m. s. 


Mount Holly 


28,822 


Cape May, extreme 


s. Cape May C. H. 


4,265 


Cumberland, s. 


Bridgetown 


12,668 


Essex, m. e. 


C Newark "> 
"^Elizabethtown 5 


30,793 


Gloucester, s. 


Woodbury 


23,089 


Hunterdon, w. 


Trentox 


28,604 


Middlesex, m. e. 


New-Brunswick 


21,407 


Monmouth, e. 


Freehold 


25,038 


Morris, m. n. 


Morris town 


21,368 


Salem, s. w. 


Salem 


14,022 


Somerset, m. 


Somerville 


16,506 


Sussex, extreme n. 


Newtown 7 
Belvidere 5 


32,752 


Warren, n. e. 



Total 277,575 

Of this aggregate were whites, 257,558; free coloured 
persons, 12,460; and slaves, 7,557. Population to the 
square mile 35, 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 565 

In 1820, were engaged in Agriculture 40,812 
do. Manufactures 15,941 

do. Commerce 1,830 

Progressive Population. 
In 1790 184,139 In 1810 245,560 

1800 211,149 1820 277,575 

This advance, evinces a general increment of about 13 
per cent, in the two last decennial periods, and if con- 
tinued, the existing population is about 300,000, and will 
be in 1830, 314,000 nearly. 

History, — The first settlement of New- Jersey, 
was nearly cotemporary with that of New- York, 
and by the same nation, the Dutch, who first seated 
themselves on and near the mouth of the Hudson 
about 1612. The lower parts on Delaware bay were 
settled partially by the Swedes, 1628. The Dutch 
claimed and possessed themselves of the whole, 
which they held until supplanted by the English in 
1664. Under the English it was made a proprietary 
government, being granted by Charles II. to his 
brother James duke of York, afterwards James II. 
Most happily for the prosperity of the colony it soon 
passed to more enlightened proprietors. The grant 
was in 1664 made to the duke of York, who in the 
same year sold his rights to Lord Berkely, and Sir 
George Carteret, under the name of New- Jersey. 
The liberal and manly policy of the new proprietors, 
was shewn in the establishment of representative 
government, and in the easy mode of conveyance 
and secure tenure of landed property, and also in the 
mamtenance of strict justice towards the Indians. 
This happy outset was marred by the momentary 
conquest of the country by the Dutch, and on their 
expulsion, by the re-establishment, 1674, of the au- 
thority of the duke of York. In that year Lord 
Berkely assigned his undivided moiety of New- Jer- 
sey to William Penn, and three others. To avoid 
the inconvenience of joint ownership Carteret retain - 
Bbb 



566 POLinCAL GEOGRAPHY 

ed East Jersey, and released the western to Penn 
and his associates. After some years of very unplea- 
sant controversy, the authority of the duke of York 
ceased in 1680, a year rendered memorable also by 
the arrival in the province of the first large body of 
Quakers, who settled and built Burlington and Sa- 
lem, 

In 1682, the whole province passed under the ju- 
risdiction of Penn and his associates, but the ruinous 
and every where distressing interference of the infat- 
uated Stuarts, and the claims to jurisdiction made by 
New- York, operated to retard the prosperity of 
New- Jersey. These evils were not removed, though 
mitigated, until 1702, when the two fragments were 
re-united, and peace, order, and security followed. 
This salutary change was effected by making the 
province a royal government, but it was not until 
1738, that New- Jersey was ruled by a separate gov- 
nor from that of New- York. 

In the revolutionary struggle, and in the incipient 
resistance to the oppressive measures of Great 
Britain, New- Jersey bore her full share, and in the 
hardships and privations of an eight years war no 
other colony of the confederacy, it is probable, suf- 
fered so much. Her devotion to the cause of freedom 
is fully recorded in the date of her constitution, July 
2nd, 1776, two days before the Declaration of Inde- 
I^endence by the Continental Congress. 

NEW YORK. 
Boundaries, extent, and position. — Bounded S. 
E. by the Atlantic Ocean, S. by new Jersey and 
Pennsylvania, W. by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie and 
Niagara river, N. W. by Lake Ontario and St. 
Lawrence river, N. by Lower Canada, and E by 
Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the right bank of Hudson river al- 
most exactly on N. lat 41°, and thence along the 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 567 

N. E. boundary of New Jersey to Delaware river, 45 
Up Delaware river opposite Pennsylvania to N. 

lat. 42°. 65 

Thence W. along-, the N. boundary of Pennsylvania, 225 
Thence N. to the shore of Lake Erie, 19 

Along' lake Erie to the outlet by Niagara river, 66 

Down Niagara river to lake Ontario, 35 

Along- the southern and eastern shores of lake Onta- 
rio to St. Lawrence river, 200 
Down St. Lawrence river to N. lat. 45°, 100 
UpN.kt.45°tolake Champlain, 65 
Along" and up lake Champlain to the influx of Poult- 

ney river, 105 

Up Poultney river opposite Vermont, 10 

Along- W. boundary of Vermont, 54 

Thence E . along S . boundary of Vermont, 3 

Thence southward along W . boundary of Massachu- 
setts, 50 
Thence E . along S . boundary of Massachusetts, 2 
Thence along W. boundary of Connecticut to Long 

Island Sound, at the mouth of Byram river, 81 

From Matinicock Point on Long Island opposite the 

mouth of Byram river, to Montaug Point, 100 

Thence westward along Long Island and Staten Isl- 
and to the point of outset, 130 

Having an entire outline 1355 

Extending from N. lat. 40° 30' to 45°, and Ion. 
from 5° 08' E. to 2° 48' W. Length from Staten 
Island, S. W. point, to lat. 45°, 315 miles, and from 
the S. W, angle of Massachusetts along N. lat, 42°, 
320 miles. Measured by the rhumbs, the area is 
within a small fraction of 46,500 square miles, and 
the mean breadth consequently, 110 miles very 
nearly. 

Natural Geography. — Embracing 4|° of lat. and 
presenting a great diversity of soil and difference of 
relative level. New York has a climate with strong- 
ly marked extremes. The* general features and 
structure of this state have been so minutely noticed 



568 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

in Chap. V. that little need be added in this place. 
It is sufficient to observe, that with very little excep- 
tion, the physiognomy of New York is broken by 
hills and movmtains traversed in such manner by 
rivers, and stretching from the Atlantic ocean to the 
Canadian sea, as to confer upon the whole a pecu- 
liar geographical character. Under the pliysical 
survey in Chap. V. have been brought to view the 
two great depressions in the Appalachian system by 
which the Erie and Champlain canals have been 
traced into the vast St. Lawrence basin. These 
depressions and the respective character of the riv- 
ers and lakes, constituted a combination of natural 
advantages, which talent, wealth and political secu- 
rity have as remarkably combined to render effi- 
cient. 

It would be vain to attempt an enumeration of the 
staples of New York, as these staples are composed 
of every article of domestic production, which the 
lines of lat. above 40*^ will admit. Of mineral sub- 
stances afforded within the state, the most impor- 
tant are salt, iron, gypsum and marble, but these 
four are merely the most prominent, and the list 
might be augmented by the addition of water-lime. 

Political Geography. — The city of New York, 
though not even the seat of legislation for the state, 
is in many essential respects, the commercial capi- 
tal of the United States, This already great empo- 
rium stands on the southern point of Manhattan Isl- 
and, 18 miles above the open Atlantic Ocean, with 
the mouth of Hudson W., East river or the outlet of 
Long Island sound E., and a most beautiful bay to tlie 
S. The Battery or southern part of New York, is 
at N, lat. 40° 42', almost 3'* E. from Washington 
City. If we include the small strait called the Kills, 
extending westward of Staten Island into Newark 
bay, the harbour of New York has four outlets. 
The variety of tide currents prevent the accumula- 
tion of ice, and though when compared with the 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 569 

tides N. E. from the isthmus of Barnstable, those of 
New York are moderate, yet from the causes sta- 
ted, the entrance is seldom rendered inaccessible by 
frost. The depth of water admits vessels of large, 
though not of the very greatest draught, whilst ihe 
narrowness of all the channels permits the erection 
of defensive works, so as to render New York in a 
very eminent degree secure. 

As an object of taste the entire neighborhood of 
this city is truly worthy of admiration. The vari- 
ety of surface of land and water, the activity appa- 
rent on all sides, and the monuments of art and na- 
ture brought here to a narrow circle, amply reward 
the traveller, and few, very few of those who really 
visit the place as travellers, see the most alluring 
points of the picture. 

The population of New York was found in 1820 
to amount to 123,706, which was then rapidly in- 
creasing, as may be seen by the subjoined tabular 
view of the progressive population. 

1697 4,302 1805 75,770 

1756 13,040 1810 96,373 

1790 33,131 " 1820 123,706 
1800 60,489 1825 166,086 

From these elements we are taught that New 
Yorkmore than doubled from 1805 to 1825, or in 20 
years. It is probable that for a century to come 
this city will double its population each 25 years, 
and if so, the aggregate will be in 

1850 332,172 1900 1,328,688 

1875 664,344 1925 2,657,376 

Next to New York in population is Albany, the 
seat of legislation. This city stands on the right 
bank of the Hudson, at N. lat. 42° 39', and long. 3° 
15' E. The site is an inclined plain of bold accli- 
vity, the streets extending either parallel to the 
Hudson or nearly at right angles to that stream. 
B bb 2 



570 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Pop. 1820, 12,867. The tides ascend to Troy, 5 
miles above Albany, to which place a sloop naviga- 
tion also extends. 

Troy is built upon an alluvial plain, and is the 
only town on the Hudson of any considerable size 
so situated. It stands on the contrary side from 
Albany, 4 miles below the junction of the Mohawk 
and Hudson. Population of Troy in 1820, 5,264. 

The city of Hudson on the Hudson river, 30 
miles below Albany, but on the opposite side of the 
river, occupies a bold acclivity from the water, the 
main street extending nearly at right angles to the 
river. The latter in extent and population is very 
nearly equal to Tro}^, having in 1820, 5310 inhab- 
itants. 

Rochester on the Gennessee river and Erie canal, 
has risen in 10 or 12 years to the third rank of the 
cities of New York, exceeding Troy and Hudson, 
and only falling short of Albany. 

Besides those enumerated, this prosperous state is 
literally decorated with beautiful and thriving towns 
and villages, amongst which may be named Pough- 
keepsie, Newburgh, Goshen, Athens, Cattskill,Sche- 
nectady, Herkimer, Waterford, Cooperstown, Syra- 
cuse, Utica with a population of 8000, Auburn, 
Manlius, Owego, Geneva, Canandaigua, Batavia, 
Buffalo and Lewiston. 

Travelling over the state, it would be difficult to 
select amongst the villages, those most deserving of 
notice, and I have merely selected those I have seen: 
others are no doubt omitted, which as well deserve 
notice as those selected. This interesting state con- 
stitutes a picture, which to he admired, needs but to 
be seen. 

Counties. Chief Toivns. Pop. 1820. 

Albany, e. Alijant 38,116 

Allegany, tv. Angelica 9,330 

I?roomc, m. s. Ring-liamton 14,394 

Cattaraugus, -w. EUicottvillc 4,090 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



571 



Counties. 


Chief Towns. Fop, 


, in 1820. 


Cayuga, m. w. 


Auburn 


38,897 


Chatauque, w. 


Mayville 


12,568 


Chenango, m. 


Norwich 


31,215 


Clinton, n. 


Plattsburg 


12,070 


Columbia, e. 


Hudson 


38,330 


Cortlandt, m. 


Cortlandt 


16,507 


Delaware, m. s. 


Delhi 


26,587 


Dutchess, e. 


Pou^hkeepsie 


46,615 


Erie, w. 


Buffalo 




Essex, n. e. 


Elizabethtown 


12,811 


Franklin, n. 


Malone 


4,139 


Genesee, w. 


Batavia 


58,093 


Greene, e. 


Cattskill 


22,996 


Hamilton, m.n. 


Wells 


1,251 


Herkimer, m. n. 


Herkimer 


31,017 


Jefferson, n. iv. 


Watertown 


32,952 


Kings, s. 


Flatbush 


11,187 


Lewis, m. n. 


Martinsburgh 


9,227 


Livingston, w. 


Geneseo 




Madison, m. 


Morrisville 


32,208 


Monroe, n. tv. 


Rochester 




Montgomery, m. 


Johnstown 


37,569 


New York, s. 


New York 


123 706 


Niagara, w. 


Lewistown 


22 990 


Oneida, m. 


Rome and Whitestown 


50,997 


Onondaga, m. 


Syracuse 


41,467 


Ontario, m. w. 


Canandaigua 


88,267 


Orange, <s. 


Newburg and Goshen 


41,213 


Orleans, n, w. 


Gaines 




Oswego, 11. tv. 


Oswego 


12,374 


Otsego, m. 


Cooperstown 


44,856 


Putnam, e. s. 


Carmel 


11,268 


Queens, s. 


North Hempstead 


21,519 


Renssalaer, e. 


Troy 


40,153 


Richmond, s. 


Richmond 


6,135 


Rockland, s. 


Clarkstown 


8,837 


St. Lawrence, 7i. 


Ogdensburg 


16,037 


Saratoga, m. n. 


Ballston Spa ' 


36,052 


Schenectady, m. 


Schenectady 


13,081 


Schoharie, m. 


Schoharie 


23,164 



572 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 
Seneca, m. -w. 
Steuben, s. w. 
Suffolk, s. e. 
Sullivan, m. s. 
Tioga, w. s. 
Tomkins, m. xv. 
Ulster, m. s. 
Warren, e. 7i. 
Washington, e. 
Wayne, 7i. tv. 
Westchester, s. 
Yates, m. tv. 

Total 



Chief ToTvns. 
Ovid and Waterloo 
Bath 

Kiverhead 
Monticello 
Owego and Elmira 
Ithaca 
Kingston 
Caldwell 

Salem and Sandy Hill 
Lyons 
Bedford 
Penn Yan 



Pop. 1820. 
. 26,619 
21,189 
24,272 

8,900 
16,971 
20,681 
30,934 

9,453 
38,831 

32,638 



1,372,812 



Of this aggregate were whites, 1,333,445 

Free coloured persons, 29,279 

Slaves, 10,088 

Engaged in Agriculture, 247,648 

Do. in Manufactures, 60,038 

Do. in Commerce, 9,113 

Progressive fiojinlation. 
1810 959,049 - 1825 1,616,458 
1820 1,372,812 1828 1,766,000 

History. — The mouth of the Hudson was discover- 
ed by the Dutch in 1609, and colonised by that nation 
in the following year. In 1621 the states general of 
the United Provinces, conferred upon the adjacent 
country the name of the New Netherlands, and 
granted it to the West India Company. It remain- 
ed in the hands of the Dutch until 1664, when the 
whole of the New Netherlands was conquered by 
the English. Charles II. granted this province and 
adjacent parts to his brother James, Duke of York, 
under the name of New York. After much op- 
pression under the Duke's Governors, a legislative 
assembly was formed in 1683, and the powers of the 
people augmented and secured by a bill of rights, 
soon after the revolution in 168S. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 573 

New York soon became a colony of considerable 
consequence, but her subsequent history up to the 
revolution in 1775, was barren of events of much 
consequence. Previous, however, to the overt act 
of resistance, the people of New York had been 
made ready for opposition to any length by indivi- 
dual oppression. With other colonies this resisted 
^he stamp act of 1765, and in 1767 was by royal 
authority restrained from legislation until quarters 
were provided for the British troops. This impolitic 
and unjust imposition of burthening the people with 
soldiers in time of peace, was one of the most ope- 
rative causes of the revolution, and in the case of 
New York, was aggravated by all the insolence of 
power. The consequence of such measures was to 
add the colony to the continental confederacy. The 
city of New York was early in the war seized by the 
British, and held by them until Nov. 25th, 1783. 

Some of the most memorable events of the war oc- 
curred in New York, particularly the capture of 
Gen. Bourgoyne and army, Oct, 1777. A year ren- 
dered still more interesting in her annals by the 
adoption of a- republican constitution, April 20th. 
This instrument has been twice amended; first, Oct. 
Srth 1801, and Nov. 10th 1821. In the last in- 
stance, the constitution was, in point of fact, remo- 
delled. 

Subsequent to the last changes in her form of 
government, the completion of the two great and 
many lesser canals, are the most prominent incidents 
in the history of this prosperous state. 



NORTH CAROLINA. 

Position^ boundaries and extent. — Bounded by 
the Atlantic Ocean E. and S. E., by South Carolina 
S. and S. W., by Tennessee W., and Virginia N. 

Miles, 

Beginning 'cn the Atlantic Ocean at the S. E. 
angle of Virginia, thence along that ocean to 



574: POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the extreme eastern angle of South Carolina, 300 
Thence in common with South Carolina, 308 

Along N. E. part of Georgia, 25 

In common with Tennessee, 165 

In common with Virginia, 300 

Having an entire outline of 1098 

Extreme length from the western border of Hay- 
wood county to Cape Hatteras, in a direction but 
little inclined from east and west, 420 miles, and the 
area being a fraction above 50,000 square miles, the 
mean width may be assumed at 120 miles. 

Extending from N. lat. 33° 50' to 36° 30', and in 
long, from 1° 30' E. to 7° 12' W, 

Natural Geography, — Not even excepting Geor- 
gia, no state of the Union differs more in relative 
soil, than does North Carolina, and it also approach- 
es Georgia in diversity of climate. Those zones of 
ocean alluvion, hills and mountains, which diversify 
New Jersey, Maryland and Virginia, become most 
conspicuous in North Carolina. The subjoined ta- 
ble shews the relative extent of the three natural 
sections, and their respective population by the 
census of 1820. 



Sections. Area. 


Whites. 


Fr. CoL 


Slaves. 


Total. 


Alluvial, 22,743 


163,559 


10,009 


113,830 


287,398 


Hilly, 14,000 


165,980 


4,582 


79,720 


250,282 


M'ntainoQS. 13,257 


85,025 


515 


15,677 


101,217 



Totals, 50,000 414,564 15,106 209,227 638,897 

Without regarding the mountain ridges, we may 
safely allow 1000 feet difference of level between 
the sandy plains near the Atlantic coast, and the el- 
evated vallies of the western and mountainous sec- 
tion of North Carolina. The extremes of the state 
differ 2° 40' in lat. which combined with the allow- 
ance 2° 30' for an elevation of 1000 feet, will yield 
("Xtremes of temperature amounting to 5° lO'. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 575 

The great variety of climate is fully evinced by 
indigenous vegetables. The dwarf palms, and the 
live oak grow around the mouth of Cape Fear river, 
whilst in the western counties, the forests mark a 
climate of very abated mean temperature. The 
exotic vegetables have a variety consonant to the 
contrasted seasons. In the south eastern counties, 
and partially on the whole sea-sand zone, cotton is 
a staple production. As an advance is made west- 
ward this vegetable is followed and entirely super- 
ceded by grain, of almost every species cultivated 
in the United States except rice. The fig tree 
flourishes on Lower Cape Fear river; and in the 
western and central counties the apple is produced 
in abundance. The peach succeeds over the whole 
state, precarious as it is in every other section of the 
United States. 

This state with a considerable line of sea coast, is 
in a singular manner devoid of good harbours, though 
the Roanoke and its confluents, the Neuse and its 
confluents, and Cape Fear river all debouch into the 
ocean upon its border. Cape Fear with 18 feet wa- 
ter is the deepest entrance into the state. The 
natural consequences of this defective access have 
been to turn the trade of central North Carolina 
into Virginia on one side, and to Charleston, South 
Carolina, on the other. 

Though there is very much of fancy in the rela- 
tive salubrity of the sea coasts and interior of the 
southern states, there must be a real diff'erence, in 
nature, between the atmosphere over the sandy 
plains or marshes near the tides, and the elevated, 
waving and well watered vallies above the falls of 
the rivers. Perhaps this contrast is in no other state 
more decidedly marked. It contains the most ex- 
tensive section and most salient part of the great sea 
sand zone, which sweeps round the United States 
from New York to Texas, and it also possesses a 
large tract of the finest vallies of the Appalachian 
system. Between such extremes the traveller may 



576 FOLltlCAL GEOGRAPHY 

find a considerable portion of all the annual vicissi- 
tudes in the meteorology of the United States. 

In North Carolina is first found, receding from the 
north, those immense pine forests, which cover so 
much of all the southern states to Louisiana inclusive. 
Pine of various species is indeed found in almost 
every part of the Atlantic slope, but it is when pas- 
sing Virginia that we discover this genera of trees 
usurping large spaces to the almost utter exclusion 
of other timber. Turpentine, tar, and pine lumber 
are therefore more or less staples of all the southern 
states. I have myself travelled a whole day, and 
made from 30 to 40 miles amid an unbroken forest 
of pines. Where these trees prevail they are the 
most exclusive of all trees, and every where indica- 
tive of sterility of soil. 

Iron is found abundantly in North Carolina, and 
this state alone, amongst the states of the United 
States, has afforded gold in any considerable quanti- 
ty. Very happily this seductive natural production 
does not greatly abouild in the auriferous districts of 
North Carolina. The metal is found admixed with 
the soil in grains or lumps, from the most minute 
perceptible particles to masses of near two pounds 
avoirdupois. 

Political Geography. — Raleigh, the seat of jus- 
tice for Wake county, and seat of government 
of the state, is situated on the right bank of the 
Neuse river, 60 miles north by east from Fayette- 
ville, at N. lat. 35° 44', long. 1° 48' W. The seat 
of legislation was fixed here in 1791. Population 
2000. No town of any considerable magnitude has 
risen in this state; Fayetteville, Washington, and 
some others are active and wealthy depots, but as 
the tropics are approached the disposition of man 
to congregate in cities becomes weaker, and no 
other circumstance so strongly contrasts the ex- 
tremes of the United States, as the size and fre- 
quency of the villages in the northern, and their 
scarcity in the southern states. This remarkable 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



577 



difference cannot arise from relative density of po- 
pulation, as it is equally apparent whatever may be 
the respective population. If Natchez, on the Mis- 
sissippi, with iis combined commercial advantages, 
stood 10° of lat. more northwardly, it would long 
since have contained ten times its population. 
Charleston and New Orleans are mere exceptions 
to a general rule. But to return to the description 
of North Carolina. 

Counties. 
Anson, s. 
Ashe, n. -zv. 
Beaufort, e. 
Bertie, n. e. 
Bladen, s. 
Brunswick, s. 
Buncombe, w. 
Burke, to. 
Cabarras, m. w. 
Camden, n. e. 
Carteret, e. s. 
Caswell, n. 
Chatham, m. 
Chowan, n. e. 
Columbus, s. 
Craven, s. e. 
Cumberland, m. s 
Currituck, n, e. 
Davidson, m. w, 
Duplin, m. s. 
Edgecombe, m.. 
Franklin, m. n. 
Gates, n. e. 
Granville, n. 
Greene, m. e. 
Guilford, m, w. 
Halifax, n, 
Haywood, s. w. 
Hertford, n. e. 
Hyde, <?. 

c c c 



Chief totons. 


Pop. 1820. 


Wadesboro 


12534 


Jeffersonton 


4335 


Washington 


9850 


"Windsor 


10805 


Elizabethtown 


7276 


Smithville 


5480 


Ashville 


10542 


Morgantown 


13411 


Concord 


7248 


Camden C. H. 


6347 


Beaufort 


5609 


Caswell 


13253 


Pittsbbro 


12661 


Edenton 


6464 


Whitesville 


3912 


Newbern 


13394 


Fayetteville 


14446 


Currituck 


8098 


Lexington 




Duplin C. H. 


9744 


Tarboro 


13276 


Louisburgh 


9741 


Gates C. H. 


6837 


Oxford 


18222 


Snow Hill 


4533 


Greensboro 


14511 


Halifax 


17237 


Franklin 


4073 


Winton 


7712 


Germantown 


4967 



578 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 


Chief totvns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Iredell, m. tu. 


Statesville 


13071 


Johnson, m. 


Smithfield 


9607 


Jones, 5. e. 


Trenton 


5216 


Lenoir, m. e. 


Kingston 


6800 


Lincoln, s. tv. 


Lincolnton 


18147 


Martin, m. e. 


Williamston 


6320 


Mecklenburgh, s. w. 


Charlotte 


16895 


Montgomery, in, w. 


Lawrenceville 


8693 


Moore, in. s. 


Carthage 


7128 


Nash, m. n. 


Nashville 


8185 


New Hanover 


Wilmington 


10866 


Northampton, n. e. 


Northampton C. H. 


13242 


Onslow, s. 


Swansboro 


7016 


Orange, m. n. 


Hillsboro 


23492 


Pasquotank, n. e. 


Elizabeth City 


8008 


Perquimans, n. e. 


Hertford 


6857 


Person, n. 


Roxboro 


9029 


Pitt, m. e. 


Greenville 


10001 


Randolph, tn. to. 


Ashboro 


11331 


Richmond, s. 


Rockingham 


7537 


Robeson, s. 


Lumberton 


8204 


Rockingham, n. 


Wenlworth 


11474 


Rowan, m. w. 


Salisbury 


26009 


Rutherford, s. iik 


Rutherfordton 


15351 


Sampson, in. s. 


Clinton 


8908 


Stokes, n. tv. 


Salem 


14033 


Surry, n. tv. 


Rockford 


12320 


Tyrrel, e. 


Columbia 


4319 


Wake, m. 


Raleigh 


20102 


Warren, n. 


Warrenton 


11158 


Washington, e. 


Plymouth 


3986 


Wayne, m. 


Waynesboro 


9040 


Wilkes, n. tv. 


Wilkesboro 


9967 



Total, 638,897 

The above elements show that whilst the middle 
or hilly section of North Carolina has a distributive 
population of 18 to the square mile, the sea-sand 
alluvial counties have but 12, and the mountainous 
a small fraction above 7. This feature in the dis- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 579 

tribution of population is common to Virginia, both 
Carolinas, and Georgia, as may be seen by refer- 
rence to those articles respectively. Another very 
important circumstance in .the statistics of these 
states is, that the proportion of the castes is nu- 
merically on the two eastern sections inverse to den- 
sity of general population. The coloured race is 
most numerous, comparatively, on the sea-sand al- 
luvion, becomes less so on the hilly region, and least 
of all on the western mountainous tracts. 

History, — The first, but abortive attempt by the 
English to colonize North America, was made in 
1586, under a patent to Sir Francis Drake. A small 
colony was left on the Roanoke, in 1587, but was 
never again to be found; they sunk from the reach 
of all attempts to ascertain their fate. Some emi- 
grants from Virginia penetrated the country about 
1650, and made the first actual settlement of whites. 
What is now Carolina had been marked on the ear- 
ly Spanish maps as part of Florida. By the French 
it had received the name of Carolina, in honour of 
Charles IX. king of France, when the disastrous 
attempt was made by the French to colonize the 
North American coast, noticed under the head of 
Florida. The name Carolina prevailed. In 1661, 
a second English colony, from Massachusetts, 
reached and fixed themselves at Cape Fear river. 
After many vexatious struggles, the infant colony 
obtained a representative government in 1667, but 
two years afterwards marred by the fanciful consti- 
tution so famous under the name of Locke's scheme 
of government. This wild project was soon aban- 
doned, and, like other English colonies, the advance 
of Carolina was slow, and its history rendered hor- 
ribly memorable by a most destructive savage war 
in 1712. Previous to 1717 Carolina had been a pro- 
prietary government, but in that year became royal 
by purchase, and continued such until the revolution 



580 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

in 1775. In 1720, the two Carolinas were separated 
into North Carolina and South Carolina. 

North Carolina experienced a very great advan- 
tage in the revolutionary war from her inaccessible 
coast. Those destructive inroads, so ruinous in other 
states along the Atlantic, were here impracticable. 
Though, however, less exposed, the people of this 
state evinced their full sympathy with the residue 
of the American people. A convention was assem- 
bled at Halifax, where, on December 18th, 1776, the 
existing constitution was adopted. Since that auspi- 
cious event it may be doubted whether any other 
community ever passed fifty-two years with less of 
those sombre events which constitute the bulk of 
history; or whether a more unambitious community 
ever existed, with as much to excite and justify am- 
bition. 



OHIO. 

Boundaries, position, and extent. — Bounded by Ohio 
river or Virginia S. E., Oliio river or Kentucky S., Indi- 
ana W., Michigan territory and Lake Erie N., and Penn- 
sylvania N. E. 

Miles. 
Beginning on Oliio river at the mouth of Great Mi- 
ami and thence northward along E. boundary of 
Indiana from N. lat. 39° 07' to 41° 35' 170 

Thence due E^ along the S. boundary of Micliigan 80 
Thence along the southern shores of Lake Erie to 

the N. W. angle of Pennsylvania 150 

Due S. along the western boundary of Pennsylvania 93 
Down Ohio river to the place of outset 440 

Having an entire outline of 933 

Extending from N. lat. 38° 30' to 42°, and in long, 
from 3° 34' to 7° 44/ W. Area 40,000 square miles. Tlie 
breadth of Ohio, between the two meridian boundaries 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 581 

of Pennsylvania and Indiana, is within a very small frac- 
tion of 220 miles, consequently the mean breadth, in 
the direction of north and south, is about 182 miles. 

JYatural Geography. — The form of Ohio is more 
completely compact than any other state of the 
United States, and if the inflections of Ohio river 
be disregarded, contains the greatest area in pro- 
portion to perimeter. In our survey of Ohio and its 
confluent rivers, the state of Ohio was shewn to be 
composed of two unequalled inclined planes, the 
widest sloping towards the Ohio, and the narrowest, 
but most abrupt, declining into lake Erie. It has 
been also shewn that the interior table land of this 
state, was comparatively fiat, and that the rivers 
oozing from this plateau, gained rapidity of current 
and depth of channel, advancing towards their re- 
cipients, and that the hills along and near Ohio ri- 
ver were the remains of a once elevated country 
now cut into deep chasms by the abrasion of water. 

The state of Ohio in reality occupies about 
one third of that unequalled plane which declines 
from Pennsylvania to Mississippi river. Taken as 
a whole, this truly productive tract of 600 miles in 
length, and exceeding two hundred mean width, 
and now comprised in Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, has 
no equal on earth, in any one continuous body. If 
this region is estimated above Ohio river or lake 
Erie, there is no one point, it is probable, 800 feet 
above the latter, or the surface of the former at 
Pittsburg. As the Ohio itself depresses, so does the 
interior table land, and the general diiference of 
level mav be estimated from about 460 down to 100 
feet. 

Except along the deep vales of Ohio and other 
streams near their efflux into that recipient, the cli- 
mate is as uniform as the surface, and considerably 
more severe in the wmter season, than correspond- 
ing latitudes on the Atlantic. It was indeed mista- 
king the phenomena of vegetation on Ohio river for 
c c c2 



582 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

that of the whole of its valley, which produced those 
mistakes in meteorology which supposed the climate 
of this section of North America an anomaly. Many 
of these river vales are so situated as to concentrate 
the rays of the sun, and produce a reverberating 
heat; again they are depressed below the adjacent 
country, and of course, the amount of that depres- 
sion compensates for difference of latitude : but with 
all these causes of misconception, it is yet matter of 
wonder that the freezing of the rivers did not afford 
correct means of comparison. The tables in this 
View may have some tendency to awaken attention 
to the subject, and to place the philosophy of mete- 
orology in the Mississippi basin in its true light. 

It has been noticed by Dr. Drake, that the win- 
ters of the northern part of Ohio were much more 
severe than similar seasons at Cincinnati. The 
causes are obvious from the data given in this View, 
Chap. X.; and are, difference of latitude, level, and 
exposure. 

In a state of nature, Ohio was, with the exception 
of some central prairies, covered with a most dense 
forest of trees, to which the excessive fertility of the 
soil gave a most stupendous developement. Quitting 
the Appalachian system, the genera of pines, or 
terebinthine trees, become rare, as do evergreens of 
any species north of the region of palms, laurels, 
hollys, and laurier 'almond. In Louisiana, where- 
everthe terebinthine trees cease, they are succeed- 
ed by the laurel, magnolia, holly, lesser laurel, and 
towards the sea coast, by the cypress, evergreen 
sassafras, and live oak; but in the Ohio valley, the 
region of pines is at once followed by deciduous trees. 
This very strong contrast in the components of their 
respective forests in winter, is another cause of over- 
rating the temperature of the elimate of Louisiana, 
Descending the rivers in the winter, the dark green 
of the forests augments, and consequently, that air 
e-f. desolation softens, wliich renders a countrv of 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 5 S3 

entirely deciduous trees so dreary, when their na- 
ked branches only meet the eye. 

The size, majesty, and generic and specific variety 
of the trees of the Ohio basin has been a just theme 
of admiration, but I am inclined to consider the pic- 
ture over-coloured. I spent my early years in the 
Ohio valley and Mississippi basin alternately, and 
could never observe any single species of tree com- 
mon to both, say Ohio and Louisiana as extremes, 
which did not reach a height and mass greater in 
the lower climrte of Louisiana. This is the case 
with every species of oak and hickory, with sassa- 
fras, the liriodendron, the elms, and numerous other 
trees. If there is an exception, it is the sycamore, 
and even of that I am very doubtful. 

In cultivated vegetables, Ohio is in a peculiar man- 
ner productive. Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, bar- 
ley, tobacco, and orchard fruits, are staples. Mea- 
dows and gardens, where due attention is paid to 
their improvement, have a correspondent abundant 
production. 

Of metallic matter, iron Is the only ore found in 
great quantity. Coal, of the bituminous species, ex- 
ists in extensive strata along the Ohio and Lome of 
its confluent streams, and no doubt underlays parts 
of the state too level to expose its existence except 
by artificial means. 

The peculiar commercial advantages of this state 
have been already sufficiently noticed under the dif- 
ferent heads of rivers and canals. 

Political Geografihy. — Ohio shares a common 
feature with the greater number of states of the 
United States, that its real is not its legal capital. The 
city of Cincinnati, is the second emporium in popula- 
tion, commerce, wealth, and literary institutions, 
which has risen in the basin of Mississippi. This 
rapidly increasing city stands on an undulating ac- 
clivity on the right bank of Ohio river, at N.lat. 39^ 
06', and long. 7° 25' Vi. It is by the channel of 



584 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Ohio, 445 miles below Pittsburg ; 860 from New 
Orleans by land, and 850 from New York by the 
route of lake Erie, Erie canal, and Hudson river. 
It was first laid out by Judge Symmes, in 1789, but 
did not increase much until after the treaty of Green- 
ville, 1795. The progressive population is a real 
phenomenon in colonization. In 1810, the popula- 
tion was 2,540; in 1813, 4,000; in 1820, they had 
risen to 10,000; to 12,016 in 1824, and in 1826, to 
16,230. The existing population falls but little, if 
any, below 20,000. "There are," (1828) says Mr. 
Flint, a resident author, " 28 clergymen, 34 attor- 
neys, 35 physicians, 800 persons engaged in mer- 
cantile pursuits, 500 in navigation, and 3000 in manu- 
factures." 

The mercantile, literary, religious, and manufac- 
turing establishments are numerous and highly re- 
spectable. The markets are abundantly supplied, 
and here in the great central basin is seen all the 
richly varied features of a prosperous, active, intel- 
ligent, and highly civilized emporium. 

Columbus, the seat of legislation, stands on the 
left bank of Sciota river, at N. lat. 39° 57', and long. 
6° 02' W., and very near the centre of the state, 
101 miles N. E. from Cincinnati. In the spring of 
1812, the site was U'-der a dense forest; it now con- 
tains the necessary buildings for the seat of justice 
of Franklin county, and for the seat of state legisla- 
tion. Steubenville on the right bank of Ohio river, 
at N. lat. 40° 25' and long. 3° 40' W., is in reality 
the second town of the state. I was myself on the 
spot in 1799, when the first rude buildings were ri- 
sing amid a thick growth of primeval trees; and the 
population now exceeds 3000. The importance of 
the place cannot, however, be estimated from com- 
parative population, as the manufacturing establisli- 
ments are highly important. 

in respect to its villages Ohio verifies, in a most 
striking manner, the remark I have made under 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



585 



the head of North Carolina; that is, the tendency of 
the northern population to form towns, and vice 
versa in the southern and slave-holding states. Be- 
sides those already named in this article, to sustain 
the hypothesis, we may add, Zanesville and Putnam, 
united by two bridges over Muskingum river, Chi- 
licothe on Sciota, Marietta at the mouth of Mus- 
kingum, Dayton, Cadiz, Cleaveland, Athens, St. 
Clairsville and many more. 

In relative importance the canal system of Ohio 
is a most important feature in the internal improve- 
ment of the United States; and if we regard the re- 
cent settlement of the state, an unequalled moral and 
political phenomenon. Those canals have been no- 
ticed, and it may be merely added here, that the 
project of forming a great canal line across the state 
was first acted on as a legislative measure in 1819, 
and first effectually commenced in 1825. 

The Ohio canal, including feeders, is about 320 
miles in length, with 1185 feet lockage. It de- 
bouches into Lake Erie at Cleaveland, and into the 
Ohio at Portsmouth, near^the mouth of Great Sci- 
ota. The Miami canal between Dayton and Cin- 
cinnati is nearly completed, and the Ohio canal it is 
calculated will be completed in 1830. 



Counties. 


Chief totvns. 


Pop. in 1820. 


Adams, s. 


West Union 


10406 


Allen, w. 


Amanda 




Ashtabula, n. e. 


Jefferson 


7382 


Athens, s. 


Athens 


6338 


Belmont, e. s. 


St. Clairsville 


20329 


Brown, s. w. 


Georgetown 


13356 


Butler, s. w. 


Hamilton 


21746 


Champaign, m. tv. 


Urbana 


8479 


Clark, m. w. 


Springfield 


9533 


Clermont, s. iv. 


Batavia 


15820 


Clinton, s. w. 


Wilmington 


8085 


Columbiana 


New Lisbon 


20033 


Coshocton, m. e. 


Coshocton 


7086 



586 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 


Chief totvns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Crawford, m. 71, 


Bucyres 




Cayahoga, n. 


Cleaveland 


6328 


Darke, w. 


Greenville 


3717 


Delaware, m. 


Delaware 


7639 


[Fairfield, m. s. 


Lancaster 


16633 


Fayette, m. s. 


Washington 


6613 


Franklin, m. 


Columbus 


10292 


Gallia, s. 


Gallipolis 


7098 


Geauga, n. e. 


Chardon 


7791 


Greene, m. 10. 


Xenia 


10529 


Guernsey, e. 


Cambridge 


9292 


Hamilton, s. w. 


Cincinnati 


31/64 


Hancock, n. w. 


Finley 




Hardin, m. w. 


M«Arthur 




Harrison, e. 


Cadiz 


14345 


Henry, n. w. 


Damascus 




Highland, s. 


Hillsbofo 


12308 


Hocking, m. s. 


Logan 


2130 


Holmes, m. e. 


Miliersburg 




Huron, n. 


Norwalk 


6675 


Jackson, s. 


Jackson 


3746 


Jefferson, e. 


Steubenville 


18531 


Knox, m. 


Mount Vernon 


8326 


Lawrence, s. 


Burlington 


3499 


Licking, m. 


Newark 


11861 


Logan, m. w. 


Bellefontaine 


3181 


Lorain, v. 


Elyria 




Madison, m. 


New London 


4799 


Marion, m. 


Marion 




Medina, n. 


Medina 


3082 


Meigs, s. 


Chester 


4480 


Mercer, w. 


St. Mary's 




Miami, w. 


Troy 


8851 


Monroe, s. e. 


Woodsfield 


4645 


Montgomery, s. w. 


Dayton 


16000 


Morgan, s. e. 


M'Connellsville 


5297 


Muskingum, 7W. e. 


Zanesville 


17824 


Paulding, «. w. 






Perry, m. s. 


Somerset 


8429 



OF THE UNITP:D STATES, 



5S7 



Counties. 


Ckief Towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Pickaway, m. s. 


Circlevllle 


13149 


Pike, s. 


Piketon 


4253 


Portage, n. e. 


Ravenna 


10095 


Preble, w. s. 


Eaton 


10237 


Putnam, w. 






Richland, in. n. 


Mansfield 


9169 


Ross, s. 


Chillicothe 


20619 


Sandusky, n. 


Croghansville 


852 


Scioto, s. 


Portsmouth 


5750 


Seneca, n. 


Tiffin 




Shelby, w. 


Sidney 


2106 


Starke, e. 


Canton 


12406 


Trumbull, e. n. 


Warren 


15546 


Tuscarawas, e. 


New Philadelphia 


8328 


Union, m. w. 


Marysville 


1996 


Van Wert, w. n. 


Willshire 




Warren, s. w. 


Lebanon 


17837 


Washington, s. e. 


Marietta 


10485 


Wayne 


Wooster 


11933 


Williams 


Defiance 




Wood 


Maumee 


733 


Total 


581,434 


Of these, engaged in Agriculture 


110,921 


Do 


Manufactures 


18,955 


Do 


Commerce 


1459 



Progressive Population, 
1790 3,000 1810 230.760 

1800 45,365 1820 581,434 

"In 1830," says Mr, Flint, " there is no doubt, but it 
will exceed a million." 

History. — This giant, yet in its cradle, first 
sprang to life in 1788, at Marietta, and was put un- 
der the fostering care of General Rufus Putnam and 
the Rev. Dr. Manasseh Cutler. Essex and Middle- 
sex counties, in Massachusetts, were the parents of 
this infant colQny, In 1787, the territory north- 



588 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

west of the river Ohio had been formed, of wliich 
the now state of Ohio was a part. The early set- 
tlements, like those of Kentucky, were made in 
tears and blood, and advanced slowly, until the trea- 
ty of Greenville in 1795, and the surrender of Mi- 
chigan territory in 1796, gave peace and security to 
the west. Ohio was detached from the North- 
western territory in 1800, and formed, with Michi- 
gan, a separate jurisdiction. Having acquired the 
requisite numbers, the Congress of the United 
States, in April, 1802, authorised the formation of a 
constitution. The convention under this act met 
November, 1802, and on the 29th of that month 
adopted the existing constitution. In January, 1803, 
the state was formally admitted into the Union, 
and, except unexampled augmentation of physical 
force, and the erection of her stupendous canals, has 
afforded no subsequent historical events unconnect- 
ed with the general history of the United States. 

The official military reports made the militia of 
Ohio, in 1826, amount to 110,176 effective men. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 

Position, boundaries, and extent. — Northern part of 
New Jersey E., Southern 'New Jersey and Delaware S. 
E., Maryland S., Virginia S. W., the state of Oliio and 
lake !Erie N. W., and New York N. and N. E. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the DelaAvare river, at the extreme 
N. E. angle of the state of Delaware, and thence 
with the semicircle of 12 miles round New Castle 
to the eastern border of Cecil county, Maryland 24 
Thence northward to the N. E. angle of Maryland 5 
Along the northern boundary of Maryland and tlie 
curve of N. lat. 39° 43' to the N. W. angle of 
Maryland 200 

In common with Virginia, from the N. W. angle of 
Maryland to the S. W. angle of Pennsylvania itself 60 



OF THE UJSflTED STATES. 598 

Miles. 
Due N. along- Oliio and Brooke counties, Virginia, 

to Ohio river 64 

Continuing the last limit due N. along the state of 

Ohio to lake Erie 91 

Along the S. E. shore of lake Erie to the western 

Hmit of New York 39 

Due S. along Chatauque county, New York, to N. 

lat. 42" and the N. W. angle of the latter state 19 
Due E. in common with New York, to the right 

bank of Delaware river 230 

Thence down Delaware river to the place of outset 230 

Having an entire outline of 959 

Extending from N. lat. 39° 43' to 42° 16', and in long, 
from 2° 20' E. to 3° 36' W. 

Next to Ohio and Connecticut, Pennsylvania is 
the third most compact state in the confederacy. 
I have taken some pains to determine the exact 
area of this state, from finding glaring errors in the 
tables on the state map, and have found that, mea- 
sured by the rhumbs, or calculated as a section of 
the sphere, the superficies is so near 47,000 square 
miles as to admit the adoption of that round num- 
ber. The breadth is very nearly that of its extremes 
of latitude, rejecting the small triangle north of 
42°, or 158 miles nearly. The mean length is with- 
in a small fraction of 300 miles. 

A''aturalGeografihy. — It may be doubted whether a 
more widely diversified and equally continuous region 
exists on the face of the earth than Pennsylvania, or 
one of similar area, on which the vegetable and 
mineral productions are generically or specifically 
more numerous. In a state of nature the streams of 
this state flowed through a most dense forest. In 
tlie same sense as applied to the sea-sand alluvial 
zone noticed under the heads of the two Carolinas, 
Georgia, Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana, no part 
of Pennsylvania is level, and in respect to surface is 
D d d 



590 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

divisible into three natural sections. First, a small 
but important hilly tract between the sea-sand allu- 
vion and the lower ridges of the Appalachian sys- 
tem; second, the mountainous, or middle section; 
and third, the western hilly. The subjoined tabular 
view presents the respective area of these sections 
and their distributive population according to the 
census of 1820, 

Sections. Square Aggregate Population to 

miles. Population. the sq. mile. 

Eastern, 7,869 569,355 77 

MiddleorM*ntainous 25,189 260,506 10 

Western, 13,942 219,597 16^ 

47,000 1,048,458 22^ 

Square Miles. Acres. 

Of preceding area Delaware drains 6,710 4,294,400 

do. Susquehanna 21,390 13,685,600 

do. Genesee 150 96,000 

do, Potomac 1,590 1,017,600 

do. Ohio 16,760 10,598,400 

do. Lake Erie 380 243,200 



46,980 29,935,200 

The relative level of the cultivatable soil of Penn- 
sylvania, if the mountain plateaus are included, dif- 
fers about 1200 feet or an equivalent to three degrees 
of latitude, therefore the extremes of latitude being 
2° 17' 01' equal to 2°. 3 of Faht. the real extremes of 
temperature over the state amount to near 5\° of 
that instrument. The ample tables in Chap. X. 
will enable the reader to make his own compari- 
sons. 

Pennsylvania is emphatically a country congenial 
to wheat, meadow grass and the apple, but admits 
a wide diversity of other vegetable productions. 
Grain, except rice, embraces the whole list of ce- 
fealia cultivated in tlie Ignited States; and amongst 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 59 1 

fruits, besides the apple, peaches, pears and plums 
abound. 

Of indigenous forest trees this state yields as great 
specific variety, as it is probable is to be found on the 
globe in a zone two degrees and one third wide, and 
not quite 6 degrees of longitude in length. The te- 
rebinthine forests are in great part confined to the 
mountains, and the deciduous trees to the eastern 
and western seetions. On the latter, the sugar ma- 
ple, rare even in the mountain vallies except towards 
New York, becomes plentiful. These distinctions 
are however general, as the great mountain vallies 
differ in no essential respect from other hilly parts 
of the state. The productive soil is also, in a very 
remarkable manner, equally distributed. Some of 
the most fertile alluvial river bottoms in the state are 
included in the mountain section. 

It ought to be particularly noticed that the appa- 
rent difference of relative population has arisen more 
from political than natural causes. Much of the 
northern part of the state has been and continues 
untenanted, from being held by owners who seem 
to either consider their pi'operty of no value, or of 
such high value as to reserve it for future ages. 
The great body of the population has spread over 
the eastern, southern, and western borders, and left 
the central and northern a comparative wilderness. 

On strict geographical principles, the whole of 
Pennsylvania is within the Appalachian system. If 
due regard is paid to the courses of the rivers, 
this truth becomes undeniable. The same hypothe- 
sis is again sustained by the distribution of fossil bo- 
dies. Of these, the first advancing from the primi- 
tive ledge is marble of beautiful variety and excel- 
lent texture. This fine production has contributed 
to adorn the eastern towns, and even farm houses of 
the state. Iron and anthracite coal follow marble, 
and exist in masses which defy all human power to 
exhaust. Iron continues to abound over the whole 



592 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

state, and where the anthracite coal ceases, the bi- 
tuminous commences, and seems to underlay great 
part of the western, and some of the central parts 
of the state. As if to complete the list of most use- 
ful fossil bodies, water holding muriate of soda (com- 
mon salt) in solution, abounds where it is most valu- 
able. In the region of bituminous coal, wherever 
the earth has been penetrated to any great depth, 
salt water has been found. Salt works, on a large 
scale, exist on the Conemaugh and some other parts 
of the western section. 

Pennsylvania seems a region from w^hich naviga- 
ble streams flow as radii from a common centre. Un- 
der the head of canals we have seen a brief view of 
how far human exertion has been made to render 
the advantages of nature effectual. 

Political Geography. — The seat of legislation has 
been placed at Harrisburg, on the left bank of the 
Susquehanna, 100 miles' W. from Philadelphia, at N. 
lat. 40° 16', and in long. 0° 07' E. This borough 
was laid out on an alluvial bank of the Susquehan- 
nah, the streets extending with or at right angles to 
the river. The population in 1820 was nearly 3000, 
and is at present considerably increased. The state 
house stands on a comparative hill, and the town 
being placed at the intersection of a river and moun- 
tain valley, a most magnificent sweep of vision opens 
from the dome. The whole vicinity is strongly 
marked by richness and variety of landscape, and 
by a fertile and well cultivated soil. A substantial 
bridge connects Harrisburg with the opposite bank 
of the Susquehanna. 

The actual capital of Pennsylvania is Philadel- 
phia. This already great city stands on an alluvial 
deposit at the margin of the primitive ledge, and on 
the peninsula between the Delaware and Schuylkill 
rivers, at N. lat. 39° 57', in long. 1° 56' E. and 74° 
59' W. from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, 
88 miles S.W, from New York, 110 N. E. from 



OF THE UNITED STATES, 593 

Baltimore, and about 100 miles by water within the 
Capes of Delaware. 

The original Indian name of the place was Coa- 
quannoc, but being chosen by William Penn as the 
seat of government for his colony, he gave it the 
name of Philadelphia. It was laid out in 1683, and 
the second Assembly of Pennsylvania met there 
April 1683, The advance of this city was steady 
and in a singular manner uniform. At the period of 
all subsequent enumerations after its foundation, the 
numbers within it and the immediate precincts 
amounted to about the one-tenth of the whole num- 
ber in the colony or state. In 1753 the inhabitants 
amounted to 18,000, in 1790 they had increased to 
43,527, in 1810 to 92,247, and in "l820 to 108,809. It 
is not within the scope of this View to enumerate 
the public edifices of any city, nor even its literary 
institutions; it may be sufficient to observe that Phi- 
ladelphia is at this time, 1828, most rapidly increas- 
ing; from what I have seen within a few days not 
less than one thousand- houses, and many of them 
superb mansions, are rising, and what is better for 
real improvement of the city, these buildings are 
mostly on the hitherto vacant lots within the for- 
merly built parts. I was in Philadelphia when the 
census of 1820 was taken and am convinced it was 
greatly under-rated. There is at present with every 
due allowance not less than 150,000 people in the 
city and its liberties. 

Lancaster and Pittsburg are both chartered cities. 
The former contained by the census of 1820, 6633 
inhabitants. It is compactly built, and is a place of 
great wealth and business, but rather stationary in 
respect to increase of population. 

Pittsburg, the Birmingham of Pennsylvania, and 
indeed of the Ohio valley, stands on the peninsula 
between the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers, 
282 miles westward from Philadelphia, at N. lat. 
40^ 27', long. 3° 02' W. Similar to Philadelphia, 
B dd2 



594 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the census tables present a false view of the popula- 
tion of Pittsburg by excluding the suburbs. In a 
commercial point of view, Pittsburg is composed of 
the city proper, Northern Liberties, village of Alle- 
ghany, Birmingham, and some still smaller places 
in the vicinity. In 1820 the census gave an aggre- 
gate population of 7248; it was really at that time 
no doubt above 10,000, and now rising 15,000. A 
fine bridge has been erected over each river, and 
the interior of the city has the aspect of one great 
workshop. The adjacent hills contain incalculable 
quantities of bituminous coal of excellent quality, 
which is rendered easy of access by lying in strata 
upwards of 300 feet above the streets of the city. 
In addition to a good turnpike road it will soon be 
connected with the Susquehanna valley by a system 
of canals. 

Reading on the Schuylkill, Easton on the Dela- 
ware, at the mouth of the Lehigh, Sunbury and 
Northumberland united by a bridge at the junction 
of the two great branches of Susquehanna, Wilkes- 
barre on the eastern and Vv^illiam sport on the west- 
ern branch of Susquehanna, York, Gettysburg, 
Carlisle, Chambersburg, Huntingdon, Bedford, 
Waterford and Erie, are all fine borough towns, and 
some of perhaps not much lesser note may be enu- 
merated, such us Lebanon, Allentown, Lewistown, 
Bethlehem, &c. 

The canals of this state have been noticed under 
the head of the United States. In reality the Chesa- 
peake and Delaware canal is in great part a work of 
Pennsylvania, and may with projiriety be enumera- 
ted amongst the improvements executed under the 
patronage and with the capital of this powerful 
state. 

Counties. Chief tovms. Pop. 1820. 

Adams, s. Gettysburg 19370 

Allcglieny, iv, Pittskurg 34921 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



595 



Counties. 


Chief Towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Armstrong-, tv. 


Kittanning- 


10324 


Beaver, iv. 


Beaver 


15340 


Bedford, s. 


Bedford 


20348 


Berks, n.e. 


Reading- 


46275 


Bradford n. 


Meanville 


11564 


Bucks, e. 


Doylestown 


37842 


Butler, tv. 


Butler 


10193 


Cambria, m. iv. 


Ebensburg- 


3287 


Centre, m. 


Bellefonte 


13796 


Chester, s. e. 


West-Chester 


44451 


Clearfield, m.-w. 


Clearfield 


2342 


Columbia, m. 


Danville 


17621 


Crawford, n. tv. 


MeadviUe 


9397 


Cumberland, m. s. 


Carlisle 


23606 


Dauphin, m. 


Harrisburg 


21653 


Delaware, s. e. 


Chester 


13701 


Erie, n. tv. 


Erie 


8553 


Fayette, s. w. 


Uniontown 


27285 


Franklhi, s. 


Chambersburg 


31892 


Greene, s. tv. 


Waynesburg- 


15554 


Ilunting-don, m. 


Hunting-don 


20142 


Indiana, m. tv. 


Armagh 


8882 


Jefferson, 7n. tv. 


Port Barnet 


561 


Lancaster, s. e. 


Lancaster 


68336 


Lebanon, m. e. 


Lebanon 


16988 


Lehig-h, e. 


Allentown 


18895 


Luzerne, 71. e. 


Wilkesbarre 


20027 


Lycoming-, m. n. 


V/illiamsport 


13517 


M'Kean, n. 


Smethport 


728 


Mercer, tv. 


Mercer 


11681 


Mifflin, VI. 


Lewistovvn 


16618 


Montgomery, s. e. 


Norristown 


35793 


Northampton, e. 


Easton 


31765 


Northumberland, m. 


Sunbury 


15424 


Perry, iri. 


Bloomfield 


11342 


Philadelphia, s. e. 


PllILADELPHTA 


137097 


Pike, w. e. 


New-Milford 


2894 


Potter, n. 


Coudersport 


186 


Schuylkil), m. e. 


Orwig-sbvirg 


11339 



596 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 


Chief towns. Pop. in 1820. 


Somerset, s. w. 


Somerset 13974 


Susquehanna, n, e. 


Montrose 9960 


Tioga, n. 


Wellsboro 4021 


Union, m. 


New-Berlin 18619 


Venango, n. w. 


Franklin 4915 


Warren, n. w. 


Warren 1976 


Washington, s. 10. 


Washington 40038 


Wayne, n. e. 


Bethany 4127 


Westmoreland, m. 


TV. Greensburg 30540 


York, s. 


York 38759 


Total 


1,049,458 


Ofthe preceding aggregate, engaged in 




Agriculture 140801 


do. 


Manufactures 60215 


do. 


Commerce 7083 



History.— The exact time when, or by what civil- 
ized nation, the first settlements in Pennsylvania 
were made, is doubtful. The Dutch had discover- 
ed and named the Delaware, as early as 1612. They 
called the Hudson North river, and the Delaware 
South river, relatively to their geographical position. 
A Swedish colony, under the auspices of Gustavus 
Adolphus, reached Delaware in 1628, and the Roman 
Catholic colony who planted Maryland, reached the 
Chesapeake in 1633. Pennsylvania was thus early 
claimed by three nations. The Dutch supplan- 
ted the Swedes, and were themselves subdued by 
the English in 1664. In the interim scattering set- 
tlements were made along the Delaware by, it is 
probable, individuals of all parties. Subsequent to 
1664, the whole Delaware country was claimed by 
the duke of York under the grant already mention- 
ed in the articles Delaware, New Jersey and New 
York, and so remained until November 1680, when 
the famous charter of Pennsylvania was granted to 
William Penn, and in May 1681 taken possession oi' 
in his name by his relation, Markham. Pcnn him- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 597 

self arrived in the Delaware, and landed at New- 
Castle, Oct. 24th, 1682, and found already in the 
country about 3000 people, Dutch, Swedes, Finns 
and English. Th-e first assembly met, and we may 
say the first real foundation of Pennsylvania, as an 
English colony, was laid at Chester, December 4th, 
1682. The most prominent incidents in the future 
history of this peculiar colony may be seen in the 
historical introduction to this View. I can only sub- 
join here, that Pennsylvania acted a most conspicu- 
ous part in the revolution. It was in her capital that 
that Declaration was made, which really changed 
the "history of the world, and provided a vantage 
ground on which the claims of human rights could 
be sustained. 

In 1776, a constitution was formed, which was su- 
perceded by a second, adopted September 2d, 1790, 
Since the latter period the morning dawn of Penn- 
sylvania, with the exception of one or two dark and 
heavy clouds, has been clear, serene and brilliant. 
Her history has been for thirty-four years made up 
from the records of improvement in every thing 
which can secure the pe-rmanent happiness of her 
citizens. 



RHODE-ISLAND. 

Position, boundaries, and extent. — Bounded by the 
Atlantic ocean S. and S. E. ; Connecticut W., and 
Massachusetts N., N. E. and E. 

Miles. 
Having an outhne along the Atlantic ocean 40 

Along Connecticut 50 

Along Massachusetts 70 

With an entire outline of 160 

Extending from N. lat. 41° 18' to 42° 01^ and in long. 

from 5° 12' to 5° 55' E. 

Exclusive of water, the area is about 1200 square miles 

or 768,000 acres. Length 50, and mean v>'idth 24 miles. 



598 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

JVatural Geography, — Compared with its limited 
extent, Rhode Island is a very diversified state. The 
north-west part is hilly and broken; but gradually 
becoming level advancing towards the Atlantic 
ocean. The state is composed of three natural sec-* 
tions; four-fifths of the whole is a generally hilly 
parallelogram W.from Narragansettbay; the second 
section is composed of the truly delightful islands of 
the Narragansett bay, Rhode Island, Prudence, and 
Conanicut, with a few still smaller; the third sec- 
tion is composed of a small irregular slip along Mas- 
sachusetts, and E. from Narragansett. 
• The latter bay is at once the ornament and nursing 
mother of Rhode Island. To describe this elegant 
sheet of water is to delineate much of the most beau- 
tiful and useful in nature. At its mouth spreads the 
nobie harbour of Newport, and narrowing and shal- 
lowing inland for about 25 miles amidst the most at- 
tractive scenery, it terminates in the convenient 
though shallow harbour of Providence. 

The soil of Rhode Island is as various as the fea- 
tures of its geography; thin and rocky to the N. W. ; 
level, and in part marshy to the S. E.; but in the 
islands and on many of the capes jutting into Narra- 
gansett bay, exuberantly fertile. 

Political Geography. — Providence, the legal and 
commercial capital of Rhode Island, stands on both 
sides of Providence river at the head of Narragan- 
sett bay, 28 miles nearly due N, from Newport, 41 
miles S. S. W. from Boston, and about 170 miles N. 
E. by E. from New York. N. lat. 41° 50', long. 5° 
36' E. Pop. 1810, 10,0n, and in 1820, 11,767. In 
proportion to population. Providence is, it is proba- 
ble, the most extensive manufacturing and commer- 
cial city of the United States. 

Newport stands on the S. W. part of Rhode 
Island, on a most beautiful circular bay of about one 
mile diameter, completely land locked, by the pro- 
jecting points of Rhode Island and Connanicut 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 599 

island. There is not perhaps a more perfectly form- 
ed haven on earth, or one at once more accessible 
and defensible than Newport. The rise of Provi- 
dence at the head of the bay and Bristol and other 
commercial towns along its shores, has operated to 
check the growth of Newport ; but as a maritime 
station, and even a commercial depot,nature has se- 
cured advantages to this charming spot which politi- 
cal revolutions cannot remove, or render nugatory. 
As a city Newport is still respectable for its extent 
and population. In 1810, the number of inhabitants 
was 7907, but in 1820, only 7319. 



Counties. 


Chief toxons. 


Pop. 1820. 


Bristol, e. 


Bristol 


563r 


Kent, m. 


East Greenwich 


10228 


Newport, s. e. 


Newport 


15771 


Providence, n. 


Providence 


35736 


Washington, s. 


Kingston 


15687 



Total 83,059 

Of this aggregate, were engaged in Agriculture 12559 
do. - Manufactures 6091 

do. Commerce 1162 

Though very limited in extent, the distributive popu^ 
lation of Rhode Island is 69 to the square mile, and in- 
creased from 1810 to 1820, 6128. 

History. — The great founder of Rhode Island, 
was Roger Williams, who fled from religious con- 
troversy in Massachusetts, and fixed himself and 
followers at the head of Narragansett bay, 1636, 
calling the place of ther retreat Providence. A fe- 
male Antinomian leader, Mrs. Hutchinson, soon fol- 
lowed Mr. Williams and settled on " Hed Island," 
now Rhode Island. The two little colonies were 
united by charter procured by Williams from 
Charles I, in 1643-4. A second charter was obtain- 
ed from Charles II, in 1663, which continues to be 



600 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

the constitution of Rhode Island. Brown Universi- 
ty was founded in 1664, and was the last impor- 
tant historic event particular to this little colony for 
upwards of a century. This tranquil period, was 
terminated in 1765, by the stamp act, against which, 
and every other violence of the British government, 
the people of Rhode Island opposed a steady and 
effectual resistance. As early as 1774 the royal 
stores and artillery in the colony were seized; and 
when the day of open war dawned, one of the most 
effective generals of the Anglo-American nation 
sprung like a youthful lion from among the farmers 
of Rhode Island. Though morally united from the 
outset of the contest, it v/as, however, the last of the 
'^T/m'teen,'* who acceded to the present form of ge- 
neral government under the constitution of 1787. 
Her acquiescence was not obtained until May 1790. 



SOUTH-CAROLINA. 

Position, boundaries, and extent. — Bounded by the 
Atlantic ocean S. E. ; Savannah river or Georgia S. 
W.; and by North Carolina N. and N. E. 

Miles. 
Beginning on the Atlantic ocean at the extreme 
southern angle of North Carolina, thence along 
the Atlantic ocean to the moutli of Savannah 
river 185 

Up Savannah river opposite Georgia, to N. lat. oS^ 270 
Thence along North Carolina to the place of out- 
set 300 

Having an entire outline of 755 

Extending from N. lat. 32° to ^S'^ 10', and in long, from 
l'^ 44' to 6° 20' W. 

In my Geographical Dictionary I gave 28,245 
square miles as the area of South Carolina; but mea- 
suring that state, by the rhumbs on the recent state 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



601 



niap,I find the area exceeding 33,000. The greatest 
length of this state is from its eastern angle.on the 
Atlantic ocean to its extreme western, at the junc- 
tion of the Savannah and Chatuga rivers, 275 miles; 
mean width very nearly 120 miles. 

Natural Geography. — Similar to Georgia and 
North Carolina, South Carolina is naturally divided 
into three zones, the respective area, and distribu- 
tive population of which, in 1820, are expressed in 
the following table. 



Natural sec- 
tion. 


Ai'ea in 
sq. miles 


Whites. 


Fr. col. 
people. 


Slaves. 


Aggre- jFop. to 
gate. sq. mile. 


Allavial 

Hilly 

M'ntainous 


9000 
13000 
11270 


43241 

101537 

93114 


4451 

1801 

553 


132637 
89013 
34807 


1 80329; 20 
192351! 14^ 
128474; lU 


Amount 


33270 


237892 


6805 


256457 


501154 15 



This table exhibits the comparative general den- 
sity and the numbers of each caste, and is the only 
instance in the United States, where the African 
race preponderates. 

The sections are perhaps more distinctly marked 
in South Carolina than in any other contiguous state. 
The sea-sand zone rises by a very gentle acclivity 
from the ocean; the rivers are shallow near their 
mouths, and much of the surface flooded by the tides 
and land floods. This outer belt is follov^^ed, about 
the lower falls of the river, by a still more sandy 
zone, which is in turn succeeded by the real hilly' 
tract between the head of tides and the mountains. 
The third or mountainous tract, with the exception 
of the mountain ridges and a still increased eleva- 
tion, differs in no other essential respect from the 
middle or hilly zone. Both those latter sections of 
South Carolina, partake of the general elegant di- 
versity of surface, salubrity of climate, and fertility 



602 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

of soil, which distinguishes the verge of the Appala- 
chian system in all its length. 

The extreme north-western part of South Caro- 
lina is on the great table land from which the sources 
of the Tennessee flow N. and N. W.; those of Chat- 
tahooche from S.W.; and those of the Savannah and 
Santee S. E. It is probable that an allowance of 
two degrees of Fahrenheit will be a moderate esti- 
mate for the effect on temperature by relative level, 
from the south-east to the north-west angle of this 
state, and the difference of lat. being 3° 10', the en- 
tire difference of temperature will exceed 5° of 
Fahrenheit. 

The natural vegetation of this tract, combines the 
palms and pines, with the oaks and hickory, and in 
cultivated plants, the sugar cane and orange to the 
wheat and apple. Cotton, rice, and grain, particular- 
ly the two former, are its staples. Rice is confined 
to the sea coast, and sugar in great part to Beaufort 
district. The orange has also a very limited extent. 

Taken as a whole, it is a very productive state, 
and though the sea coast is not well supplied with 
harbours of the first order, it abounds with those of 
a secondary class. Besides the Savannah which 
debouches at its southern extreme, and some small- 
er streams which flow from the interior, two fine 
rivers in part rise within, and in part traverse South 
Carolina, and convey to its marts the produce of the 
central sections of North Carolina. Similar to other 
southern states, the interior river navigation of 
South Carolina is much better than on the sea coast. 

Political Geography. — Charleston adds another 
to the already long list of cities, which greatly ex- 
ceed in importance the legal capitals of the states 
to which they belong. This already great empo- 
porium, stands on the peninsula between Ashley and 
Cooper rivers, 6 miles within the bar, at hit. 32° 50^ 
N. and long. 2° 54' W., 550 miles S. S. W. from 
Washington City. The advance 'of Charleston huj? 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



60 : 



been rather slow; in 1790 the inhabitants were 16,- 
359, in 1800 they were 18,711, in 1810 they were 
24,711, and in 1820 had risen to only 24,780. The 
canal from the head of Cooper into Santee river has 
been noticed. 

Columbia the capital of South Carolina and seat 
of justice for Richland district, stands on the left 
bank ofCongaree, immediately below the junction of 
Saluda and Broad rivers. Geographically, the sit- 
uation of this place is very remarkable; N. lat. 34° 
and 81° W. long, from London, intersect within its 
limits, it is of course 4° 05' W. from W. C. 

The subdivision of South Carolina in place of 
counties, is into districts as follow : 



Districts. 



Chief toivns. 



Fop. 1820. 



Anderson 


Anderson 




Abbeville, n. w. 


Abbeville 


23189 


Barnwell, s. to. 


Barnwell C. H. 


14750 


Beaufort, extreme s. 


Beaufort 


32199 


Charleston, s. 


Charleston 


80212 


Chester, w. 


Chester C. H. 


14379 


Chesterfield, n. 


Cheraw 


6645 


Colleton, s. 


Walterboro 


26373 


Darlington, n. e. 


Darlington 


10949' 


Edgefield, iv. 


Edgefield C. H. 


24309 


Fairfield, m. n. 


Winsboro 


17174 


Georgetown, e. 


Georgetov/n 


17603 


Greenville, ?i. iv. 


Lancasterville 


14530 


Horry, e. 


Conwayboro 


5025 


Kershaw, 7i. 


Camden 


12442 


Lancaster, Ji. 


Lancasterville 


874 6 


Lawrens, iv. 


Laurens 


17682 


Lexington, m. 


Granby 


8083 


Marion 


Marion 


10201 


Marlborough, v. e. 


Bennetsville 


6425 


Newberry, m. w. 


Newberry 


16104 


Orangeburg, m. 


Orangeburg 


15655 


Pendleton, 7Z. iv. 


Pendleton 


27022 


Pickens 


Pickens 





604 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Richland 


Columbia 


12321 


Spartanburg, n. -w. 


Spartanburg C. H. 


16989 


Sumpter, ?«. 


Sumpterville 


25369 


Union, n. lu. 


Unionville 


14126 


Williamsburgh, e. 


Kingstree 


sne 


York, n. 


York C. H. 


14936 



Total 501,154 

History. — The first settlement of South Carolina 
by the whites, appears to have been made at Port 
Royal about 1670, but no permanent establishment 
was formed until 1680, when the few settlers then in 
the country fixed on Oyster Point between Ashley 
and Cooper rivers and laid the foundation of the city 
of Charleston. Previous, however, to the founding 
of Charleston, a grant had been made in 1662 by 
Charles 11. to Lord Clarendon and seven others, of 
all that zone of North America, from N. lat. 31° to 
36°, and two years afterwards the boundaries were 
extended to N. lat. 36° 30^ The proprietary gov- 
ernment of Carolina, was if possible more complex 
than any other similar government in the English 
colonies. This confusion was augmented by Locke's 
scheme and religious contention, which terminated 
in 1719, by a separation of the two Carolinas, and the 
establishment of a royal government. 

One of the events in the history of South Caroli- 
na however, of most importance, was the introduc- 
tion by Gov. Smith in 1695, of the cultivation of rice; 
cotton followed, and the colony flourished until 
checked by Indian war, and subsequently by that of 
the revolution. In the latter contest. South Carolina 
suflFered severely, and was the theatre of some of 
the most remarkable events which it produced. 
The names of Marion, Sumter and Lee, threw a 
halo of glory over the state. The actions and char- 
acter of Marion give to the history of the southern 
campaigns, the rich hue of the epic, with the solid 
grandeur of real facts. The existing government 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 605 

or constitution of South Carolina, was adopted June 
3rd 1790, amended December 17th 1808, and again 
December 1 9th 1816. 



TENNESSEE. 

Position^ boundaries and extent. — Bounded by the 
Mississippi W., state of Kentucky N., Virginia N. 
E., North Carolina E., Georgia S. E., Alabama S., 
and the state of Mississippi S. W. 

Miles. 

Beginning on the Mississippi river at N. lat. 36° 30', 
tibence due E. to Tennessee river, 64 

Down Tennessee river, 12 

Thence by a Hne a little south of E. along Ken- 
tucky to the south-west angle of Virginia, 250 

Continuing the last hne along Virginia to the N. E. 
angle of Tennessee, 105 

Thence S. W. along the north-western boundary of 
North Carohna to the northern boundary of Geor- 
gia, 174 

Thence due W. along Georgia and N. lat. 35°, to 
the N. E. angle of Alabama, 100 

Along northern boundary of Alabama to the N. E. 
angle of the state of Mississippi, 140 

Thence along Mississippi to Mississippi river, 116 

Up the latter river to the place of outset, 150 

Having an entire outhne of 1111 

Extending from N. lat. 35° to 36° 40', and in 
long, from 4° 12' to 13° 14' W. The area of Ten- 
nessee measured by the rhumbs, is 43,265 square 
miles. The mean length of Tennessee from E. to 
W., is about 400 miles, and mean width 108. 

JVatural Geography. — It has already been re- 
marked under several heads, that the climate of the 
Atlantic states changed with the meridians, and a 
similar remark may be repeated in regard to Ten- 
nessee, A difference of level amounting to at least 
E e e 2 



606 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

800 feet, must exist between the alluvial banks of 
the Mississippi and the mountain vallies of the high- 
er branches of Tennessee. The state is therefore 
an inclined plain, falling from the table land of the 
Appalachian system by a descent affecting relative 
temperature to the amount of 2° of Fahrenheit. 

From such structure, the extremes of the state 
admit the profitable culture of cotton ^nd small 
grain, and its most fertile river vallies, it is suppo- 
sed by many, are the most favorable to the develop- 
ment of Indian corn, of any places found in the Uni- 
ted States. Fruits flourish also abundantly, and to 
the apple and peach the vine might no doubt be 
added. 

Iron and salt are also products of Tennessee, as 
are gypsum, nitrous earth, beautiful marbles, and 
some other fossils. The iron and gypsum are the 
most plentiful and valuable of the mineral bodies in 
the state. 

In its natural state, Tennessee was covered with 
a most dense and specifically diversified forest, 
which added to its cultivated vegetables, and me- 
tallic and fossil wealth, give great variety and value 
to the staple commodities, which are again indefi- 
nitely augmented by domestic animals. Provisions 
indeed of all kinds, and horses, cattle and hogs are 
exported to great amount annually. 

The two fine rivers, Cumberland and Tennessee, 
which traverse this state, give considerable com- 
mercial facility; but the lowness of the water in au- 
tumn, and the great distance of Eastern Tennessee, 
from even the Mississippi, superinduce the rearing 
and transportation of live stock. 

Political Geografihy. — Nashville, the commer- 
cial and legal capital of Tennessee, stands on the 
east bank of Cumberland river, 430 miles N. E. 
from Natchez, 480 N. N. E. from New Orleans, 
and by the post road 709 miles N. W. by W. from 
Washington City, N. lat. 36° 09', long. 9° 38' W. 



OF THE UNITED. STATES. 



607 



The advance of Nashville has been v 


ery. rapid of 


late years; in 1820 the population was estimated at 


4000, at present the number amounts to 


upwards of 


6000 and places 


this city in rank next to Pittsbure. 


Knoxville in East Tennessee contains about 3000 


inhabitants, and 


a number of the county 


seats from 


500 to 1500. 


• 




Cou7ities. 


Chief To-wns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Anderson, m. e. 


Clinton 


4,668 


Bedford, m. s. 


Shelbyville 


16,012 


Bledsoe, m. e. 


Pikeville 


4,005 


Blount, e. 


Marysville 


11,258 


Campbell, n. e. 


Jacksboro 


4,244 


Carroll, w. 


Huntingdon 




Carter, e. m. 


Elizabethtown 


4,835 


Claiborne, n, e. 


Tazewell 


5,508 


Cocke, e. 


Newport 


4,892 


Davidson, m. 


Nashviilb 


20,154 


Dickson, m. 


Charlotte 


5,190 


Dyer, w. 


Dyerburg 




Fayette, s. w. 


Summerville 




Fentess, n. 


Jamestown 




Franklin, s. 


Winchester 


16,571 


Gibson, w. 


Trenton 




Giles, s. 


Pulaski 


12,558 


Grainger, m. e. 


Rutledge 


7,651 


Greene, e. 


Greenville 


11,324 


Hardimaii, s. xv. 


Bolivar 




Hamilton, s. e. 


Hamilton 


821 


Hardin, s. 


Savannah 


1,462 


Hawkins, n. e. 


Rogersville 


10,949 


Haywood, to. 


Brownsville 


- 


Henderson, w. 


Lexington 




Henry, n. -w. 


Paris 




Hickman, m. s. 


Centreville 


6,080' 


Humphries, m. -w. 


Reynoldsburg 


4,067 


Jackson, n. 


Gainsboro 


7,593 


Jefferson, e. 


Dandridge 


8,953 


Knox, m. e. 


Knoxville 


13,034 


Lawrence, s> 


Lawrenceburg 


3,271 



608 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 


Chief To-wns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Lincoln, s. 


Fayetteville 


14,761 


M'Minn, s. e. 


Athens 


1,623 


M*Nairy, s. 


Purdy 




Madison, w. 


Jackson 




Marion, s. e. 


Jasper 


3,888 


Maury, m. s. 


Columbia 


22,141 


Monroe, s. e. 


Rockville 


2,529 


Montgomery, n. 


Qlarksville 


12,219 


Morgan, n. 


Montgomery 


1,676 


Overton, n. 


Monroe 


7,128 


Obion, 71. IV. 


Troy 




Perry, m. w. 


ShannonsvIIIe 


2,384 


Rhea, m. e. 


Washington 


4,215 


Roane, tn. e. 


Kingston 


7,895 


Robertson, n. 


Springfield 


9,938 


Rutherford, m. 


Murfreesboro 


19,552 


Sevier, e. 


Sevierville 


4,772 


Shelby, w. s. 


Raleigh 


354 


Smith, n. 


Carthage 


17,580 


Stewart, n. w. 


Dover 


8,397 


Sullivan, n. e. 


Blountsville 


7,015 


Sumner, n. 


Gallatin 


19,211 


Tipton, w. 


Covington 




Warren, m. 


M^Minville 


10,348 


Washington, e. 


Jonesboro 


9,557 


Wayne, s. 


Waynesboro 


2,459 


Weakley, n. tv. 


Dresden 


' 


White, m. 


Sparta 


8,701 


Williamson, m. 


Franklin 


20,640 


Wilson, m. n. 


Lebanon 


18,730 



Total 422,813 

Of the preceding aggregate were whites, 340,919, 
free coloured persons 2,737, and slaves 79,157. 
Engaged in Agriculture, 101,919 



Do. Manufactures, 

Do. Commerce, 

Progressive fiop.ulation. 
1790 35,691 1810 261,725 

1800 105,602 1820 422,613 



7,860 
882 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 609 

There is no rational doubt, but that by the census 
of 1830, the population of Tennessee will considera- 
bly exceed 600,000. 

History. — Though a few scattering settlements 
preceded that period, the building of Fort Loudon 
in East Tennessee 1757, commenced the real coloni- 
zation of the country, a colonization made in blood. 
A war with the Cherokees broke out in 1759, and 
in the ensuing year. Fort Loudon was taken and the 
garrison and inhabitants massacred. In 1761 Col, 
Grant forced the Indians to a peace, and settlers 
gradually entered Upper Tennessee. No real 
peace could be maintained with the savages, nor 
were the frontiers of Tennessee really safe until the 
close of the revolutionary war. 

West Tennessee began to be settled about the 
same period with East Tennessee, and the same 
causes of suifering and retardation, operated on both 
settlements. The battle of King's Mountain, Oct. 
7th 1780, gained in great part by the hardy rifle- 
men of Tennessee and Kentucky,was a most momen- 
tous event in the history of both, and was the expi- 
ring struggle of their worst enemies, the British, and 
gave them security against the savages. Intestine 
violence however, distracted the country for sev- 
eral years. Between 1784 and 1789, attempts were 
made to form East Tennessee into a separate state, 
by the name of Frankland. In 1790 North Caroli- 
na ceded the whole of what is now Tennessee to 
the United States, and the same year in May, it was 
made the territory south west of the Ohio. 

The territorial government continued until June 
1795, when the inhabitants of both Tennessees being 
found to amount to 77,262, a convention was called 
who met at Knoxville, January 11th 1796, and on 
February 9th reported a constitution for the new 
state, which on June 1st of the same year, was for- 
mally received into the confederacy as an indepen- 
dent member. 



610 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

VERMONT. 

Posiiioriy boundaries and extent. — Bounded by 
Lower Canada N., Connecticut river or New Hamp- 
shire E., Massachusetts S., and New York W. 

Miles. 
Having an outline along- Connecticut river opposite 

New Hampshire, 170 

Along the northern boundary of Massachusetts, 43 

In common with New York from N. W. angle of 

Massachusetts to N. lat. 45° on Lower Canada, 160 
Thence along N. lat. 45° and Lower Canada to the 

place of outset, 90 

Having an entire outline of 463 

Extending from 42° 44' to 45° N. lat. and in long. 

3° 38' to 5° 33' E. Area 9380 square miles. The 

length equivalent to the difference of latitude 2° 16' 

or 157 statute miles, mean width 59 miles. 

JsTatural Geography .—\ evmont is composed of 
two not very unequally inclined planes, with a chain 
of comparatively high mountains, extending the 
whole length of the state, in a direction declining 
from the meridians No Nr E. and S. S. W. It is 
remarkable that this main chain of mountains is not 
the dividing ridge of the rivers. Onion, La Moelle 
and Missisque rivers, all rise to the east and pierce 
the Green Mountains in their western course into 
lake Champlain. Otter river on the contrary, rises 
west of the main chain, near the S. W. angle of the 
state, and flows N. N. W. into lake Champlain. 
The water courses of the eastern slope of Vermont, 
enter the Connecticut river, and are comparatively 
humble in length of course. 

In the physical part of this view, I have already 
shewn that lake Champlain was only 90 feet eleva- 
ted above the Atlantic tides. It is probable that 
many cultivated parts of Vermont are at least 1000 
feet, giving a difference in temperature of between 
two and three degrees of Fahrenheit, from change 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 6 1 1 

of relative level. The winters are severe even to 
an extent beyond^ what could be expected from 
either latitude or height. 

The surface of the state is generally hilly, but 
not rocky, with a fine productive soil. The natu- 
ral growth on the mountains, is evergreen, compo- 
sed of pines, cedars, spruces, hemlock and laurels, 
from which the name of the state and of the moun- 
tains themselves is derived. 

The staples are grain, timber, pot and pearl ashes, 
live stock, and some iron. The commercial facili- 
ties of Vermont have been incalculably enlarged and. 
improved by the canal works, formed along Con- 
necticut river, and still more by the Hudson and 
Champlain canal. If the navigation of the Sorel 
and St. Francis rivers were made complete, this 
state would possess an inland navigation in a high 
degree advantageous ; already the surplus products 
find a ready means of transportation to profitable 
markets. 

Political Geography. — Montpelier, the capital of 
the state and seat of justice for Washington county, 
stands in a most picturesque mountain valley on the 
right bank of Onion river, 167 miles N. N. E. from 
Albany, 158 N. W. from Boston, and about 120 
S. E. from Montreal, N. lat. 44° 16' and long. 4° 28' 
E. Pop. 1820, about 2500. 

In all the combined advantages of population, 
manufactories and seminaries of education. Middle- 
bury, seat of justice for Addison county, is the real 
capital of Vermont, though in the mere number of 
inhabitants it is exceeded by Bennington. Middle- 
bury is situated on the right bank of Otter river, 
about 40 miles S.W. from Montpelier; Bennmgton on 
Hoosack river, 38 miles N. E. from Albany. There 
are several other flourishing villages in Vermont, 
the principal of which will be found annexed to 
their respective counties. 



Chief Towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Middlebury -' 


20,469 


Bennington 


16,125 


Danville 


16,669 


Burlington 


16,055 


Guildhall 


3,284 


St. Albans 


17,102 


North Hero 


3,527 


Chelsea 


24,681 


Craftsbury 


6,976 


Rutland 


29,983 


MOKTPELIKR 


14,113 


Fayetteville 


28,457 


Woodstock 


38,233 



612 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

Counties. 
Addison, w. 
Bennington, s. w. 
Caledonia, n. e. 
Chittenden, n. iv. 
Essex, 71. e. 
Franklin, n. i». 
Grand Isle, n. w. 
Orange, e. 
Orleans, n. 
Rutland, w. 
Washington, m. 
Windham, s. e. 
Windsor, e. 

Total 235,764 

The aggregate population in 1810 was 217,895, 
the inhabitants therefore had increased upwards of 
8 per cent in the intermediate 10 years, and such 
ratio of increase if maintained, will give to Vermont 
in 1830 an aggregate population of about 255,000. 

By the census of 1820, there were engaged in Ag- 
riculture, 50,950; in Manufactures, 8,484 ; in Com- 
merce, 776. 

History. — Vermont, like Delaware, owes its ex- 
istence as a state to the vague charters and con- 
flicting claims of contiguous colonies. The first ac- 
tual civilized settlement within its existing limits, 
was made in 1724, by the building of Fort Durance, 
on Connecticut river, by the people of Massachu- 
setts. In 1731, Crown Point, on lake Champlain, 
was founded on the western shore of lake Cham- 
plain by the French, and scattering settlements 
commenced on the opposite bank now in Vermont. 
The conquest of Canada in 1760, and its ultimate 
cession to Great Britain in 1763, opened Vermont to 
emigration. New Hampshire claimed the soil and 
granted lands to settlers ; New York asserted its 
claim under the Duke of York's patent, and the con- 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 613 

tested rights being referred for decision to the Bri- 
tish crown. New York prevailed, and New Hamp- 
shire acquiesced. But the great mass of the actual 
settlers held under the latter, and the former, by an 
act of injustice and folly, declared the New Hamp- 
shire grants null and void, and of course forced the 
people to a resistance which justice and despair ren- 
dered successful. 

Though, however, unconnected with any other 
colony, and unacknowledged as a separate jurisdic- 
tion, the people of Vermont entered warmly into re- 
sistance to the arbitrary acts of Great Britain, and 
throughout the revolutionary war acted a most con- 
spicuous part in the contest. 

At the peace of 1783, Vermont was in a peculiar 
situation; with no connexion with the confederated 
states, except national sympathy, and their well de- 
served share of honor gained by the issue of 
a conflict in which all had partaken the dan- 
ger, the Vermontese stood opposed to New York, 
the legislature of which persisted in their claim. 
That claim was withdrawn in 1789, in consideration 
of the payment by Vermont of 30,000 dollars. This 
vexatious controversy terminated, a convention was 
called to deliberate on the expediency of joining the 
United States, which was determined in the affirn\^- 
tive. The consent of Congress was obtained, and 
on March 4th, 1791, Vermont became the fourteenth 
state of the confederacy. 

The existing constitution was formed by conven- 
tion held at Windsor, July 4th, and adopted July 9th, 
1793. Since the latter period, tranquillity and plen- 
ty have reigned over Vermont. 



VIRGINIA. 

Position, Boundaries, and Extent. — Bounded by the 
Atlantic ocean, S. E.5 by North Carolina, S.; Tennessee, 

Fff 



614 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

S. W. ; Kentucky, W.5 Ohio river and state of Ohio, N. 

W.; Pennsylvania and Maryland N. 5 and Maryland, N. E. 

Milea. 

Having- an outline on the Atlantic ocean of 110 

In common with Maryland, from the Atlantic ocean 
to the mouth of Potomac 55 

Up Potomac river to its source 200 

Thence due N. to the south boundary of Pennsyl- 
vania 36 

Thence due W. to the S. W. angle of Pennsylvania 53 

Thence due N. along- the west boundary of Penn- 
sylvania to Ohio river 64 

Down Ohio river, following its bends, to the mouth 
- of Big Sandy river 355 

From the mouth of Big Sandy river, in common 
with Kentucky, to the northern boundary of Ten- 
nessee, onN. lat. 36° 30' 170 

Thence E. along Tennessee and North Carolina to 
the Atlantic ocean 440 

Having an entire outline of 1483 

Extending from N. lat. 36° 30', to 40° 37^, and in long. 
from 1° 21' E. to 6° 40' W. 

On the recently published state map of Virginia, 
the area is given at a fraction above 66,000 square 
miles. The preceding aggregate is made up from 
the particular superficies of the counties, but the 
same map, when the rhumbs are carefully mea- 
sured, yields a small fraction above 70,000 sqiiare 
miles. At the estimate on the map it is still the 
most extensive state of the United States. The 
greatest length is along the southern boundary, 440 
miles, and if the area is assumed at 66,000 square 
miles, the mean width will be 150 miles. 

ATatural Geograjihy. — Virginia, next to Georgia 
and Illinois, has the greatest range of latitude, of 
any state of the United States, and if we duly regard 
the high vallies of the Appalachian system, it may 
be doubted whether Virginia does not exceed even 
Georgia in extremes of temperature. The extremes 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 615 

of latitude between the northern limit of North 
Carolina, and the northwest angle on Ohio, are 4° 
07', and the difference arising from relative level 
cannot fall short of 3 degrees of Fahrenheit, conse- 
quently the difference of seasons about equal to 7 
degrees of latitude on the Atlantic coast. The 
whole surface of the state is composed of two une- 
qually inclined planes; the larger declining towards 
the Atlantic ocean, and the lesser towards Ohio ri- 
ver. The line of separation or apex of these planes 
traverses the Appalachian system obliquely. 

In point of soil Virginia is divisible into' three 
zones; the eastern part sea-sand alluvial; the middle 
or hilly, and the western or mountainous. The sub- 
joined table expresses the respective area and the 
population according to the census of 1820. 

Summary, Sq. Miles. Pop. 1820. Pop.tosq.m. 
East Virginia 8,875 262,524 30 

Middle Virginia 24,300 655,266 26 

West Virginia 32,825 147,514 4^ 

Though the habitable zones of Virginia are not 
so very distinctly marked^ as in the Carolinas and 
Georgia, yet in the former as in the latter cases, 
each part has its appropriate character. The oceanic 
section of Virginia is its tropical climate. Latitude, 
exposure, and depressed level, all combine to give 
the Chesapeake counties a much more elevated 
temperature than is found in the interior. This dif- 
ference is seen on vegetation. In the lower coun- 
ties, cotton may be cultivated successfully, whilst the 
uncertainty of grain and meadow grasses, evinces a 
southern summer. 

The middle, as in fact in all the Atlantic states 
south from Pennsylvania, we find the Arcadia of the 
state. The Middle Virginia is, however, blended 
with the mountainous, the former containing the 
whole or great part of the valley counties, Berk- 
ley, Jefferson, Frederick, Shenandoah, Rocking- 



616 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

ham, Augusta, Rockbridge, Botetourt, Montgome- 
ry> Wythe, and Washington. 

The real Mountain section lies northwest from 
the Middle, and extends to the Ohio. The extreme 
western part is indeed composed of a congeries of 
hills, with alluvial bottoms, but the actual moun- 
tain ridges encroach so near Ohio river, and the 
hills are in themselves so generally abrupt and lofty, 
as to give an alpine appearance to the country. 

Taken as a whole. Central Virginia is the best in 
respect to soil, though in the mountainous part there 
is much that is excellent. Density of population 
has in this state been less influenced by fertility of 
soil than on any other section of the United States. 

With the exception of the south-eastern counties, 
grain and orchard fruits are highly congenial to Vir- 
ginia, and the various products of the latter are the 
natural, actual, and we may safely say, the perm a- 
nent staples of the state. Of metals, iron ore is 
abundant in the central and western sections. Salt 
water has been procured on the Great Kenhawa, 
and that indispensable article extensively manu- 
factured. 

The natural navigable facilities, and the evident 
meliorations they admit, call loudly on Virginia to 
rival, in canal and road improvements, the most 
active and powerful of her sister states. 

Political Geografihy. — Richmond, the capital of 
Virginia, is situated on an elegant acclivity, rising 
from the left bank of James river, directly at its 
lower falls and head of tide, 126 miles S. 17° W. 
from Washington city; lat. 37° 27' N., and long. 0° 
33' W. Population in 1810, 9735; in 1820, it had 
risen to 12,067. The site and appearance of Rich- 
mond are highly pleasing. No city of the United 
States of equal population has a more imposing as- 
pect when viewed from a good position. It is also 
a commercial depot of far more consequence than 
might be supposed from comparative population. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 617 

Norfolk is the commercial capital of the state, 
situated on Elizabeth river immediately below the 
junction of its two main branches, and 8 miles above 
Hampton-roads, N. lat. 36° 50', and long. 49' E. 
Population in 1820, 8,478. 

Petersburg, on the right bank of Appomatox, at 
the head of the tides, 25 miles south from Rich- 
mond, is a place of great trade in grain, flour, cot- 
ton, and tobacco ; population, about 6000. This 
city stands in three counties, Chesterfield, Dinwid- 
dle, and Prince George. 

Lynchburg, capital of Campbell co., stands on the 
rightbank of James river, 118 miles W. from Rich- 
mond, lat. 37° 18' N., long. 2° 16' W. Though not 
so marked on our maps, this city occupies a moun- 
tain gap, where James river passes the south-east 
mountain. Few of the interior towns of the United 
States exceed Lynchburg in commerce, or what 
may appear more remarkable, in manufactures. It 
is the emporium of an extensive, fertile, and well 
cultivated country. The river is navigable from 
here to Richmond, and immense quantities of flour, 
tobacco, wheat, hemp, an"d other products are sent 
down. Population about 6000. 

Charlotteville, seat of justice of Albemarle county, 
Virginia, seated on the Rivanna river 86 miles 
north-west from Richmond, at N. lat. 38° 03' and 
1° 28' W.,has become a place of great interest from 
the location there, in 1825, of the University of Vir- 
ginia. It is also a place of considerable commercial 
importance. 

Fredericksburg on the Rappahannoc, Leesburg, 
Winchester, Harper's Ferry, Fincastle, Christians- 
burg, Evansham, Abingdon, Staunton, Wheeling on 
the Ohio, and some others are flourishing towns. 
The latter is a very prosperous depot, and for more 
than half the year at the head of steam boat navi- 
gation. 

The subjoined lists of counties are formed from 
rf f 2 



618 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



the natural sections, 
butive population. 



and serve to exhibit the distri- 



Eastern or Alluvial Section of Virginia. 



Counties. 


Chief to-wns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Accomac, e. 


Drummondstown 


15969 


Caroline, e. 


Bowling Green 


18008 


Charles City, s. e. 


Charjes City 


5255 


Elizabeth City, s. e. 


Hampton 


3789 


Essex, e. 


Tappahannock 


9909 


Gloucester, e. 


Gloucester C. H. 


9678 


Greensville, s. 


Hicksford 


6858 


Isle of Wight, s. e. 


Isle of Wight C. H. 


10J39 


James City, e. 


Williamsburg 


4563 


King and Queen, e. 


King and Queen C. H. 


11798 


King- George, e. 


King George C. H. 


6116 


King William, e. 


King Wilham C. H. 


9697 


Lancaster, e. 


Lancaster C. H. 


5517 


Mathews, e. 


Mathews C. H. 


6920 


Middlesex, e. 


Urbana 


4057 


Nansemond, s. e. 


Suffolk 


10494 


New Kent, e. 


New Kent C. H. 


6630 


Norfolk, s. e. 


Norfolk 


23943 


Northampton, e. 


Eastvilie 


7705 


Northumberland, e. 


Northumberland C. H 


8016 


Princess Anne, s. e. 


Kempsville 


8767 


Prince George's, m. 


8. City Point 


8030 


Prince William, e. n 


Brentsville 


9419 


Richmond, e. 


Richmond 


57Q6 


Southampton, s, e. 


Jerusalem 


14170 


Surry, s. e. 


Surry C. H. 


6594 


Sussex, s. e. 


Sussex C. H. 


11884 


Warwick, e. 


Warwick 


1608 


Westmoreland, e. 


Westmoreland C. H. 


6901 


York, e. 


Yorktown 


4384 


Total 


262,524 


Middle Virgij^ia. 




Albemarle, m. 


Charlottesville 


19750 


Amelia, m. s. 


Amelia C. H. 


11106 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



619 



Counties. 


Chief towns. 


Pop. 1820. 


Amherst, m. 


Amherst C. H. 


10426 


Augusta, m. 


Staunton 


16724 


Bath 


Bath C. H. 


5237 


Bedford, m. s. 


Liberty 


19305 


Berkeley, 7z. 


Martinsburg 


11211 


Botetourt, ?«. w. 


Fin castle 


13589 


Brunswick, s. 


Gholsonville 


1668r 


Bucking-ham, m. 


Buckingham C. H. 


17570 


Campbell, m. s. 


Lynchburg 


16569 


Charlotte, s. 


Charlotte C. H. 


13290 


Chesterfield, ?ra. e. 


Chesterfield C. H. 


18003 


Culpepper, m. n. 


Culpepper C. H. 


20942 


Cumberland, m. 


Cumberland C. H. 


11023 


Dinwiddie, m. s. 


Dinwiddie C. H. 


20482 


Fairfax, n. e. 


Fairfax C. H. 


11404 


Fauquier, n. e. 


Warrenton 


23103 


Fluvanna, m. 


Columbia 


6704 


Franklin, s. 


Rocky Mount 


12017 


Frederick, n. 


Wincliester 


24706 


Goochland, m. 


Goochland C. H. 


10007 


Halifax, s. 


Bannister 


19060 


Hampshire, n. 


Romney 


10889 


Hanover, m. e. 


Hanover C. H. 


15267 


Hardy, n. 


Moorefields 


5730 


Henrico, m. e. 


Richmond 


23657 


Henry, s. 


Martinsville 


5624 


Jefferson, n. 


Charleston 


13087 


Loudoun, n. e. 


Leesburg 


22702 


Louisa, m. 


Louisa C, H. 


13746 


Lunenburg, s. 


Lewistown 


10662 


Madison, m. 


Madison 


8490 


Mecklenburg, s. 


Boydton 


19786 


Morgan, n. 


Bath 


2500 


Nelson, in. 


Lovingston 


10137 


Nottaway, m. s. 


Nottaway C. H. 


9658 


Orange, m. 


Orange C. H. 


12913 


Patrick, s. 


Taylorsville 


5089 


Pendleton, m. 


Franklin 


4836 


Pittsylvania, s. 


Competition 


21313 


Prince Edward, m, t 


J. Prince Edward C. H. 


12577 



620 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 



Counties. 
Pocahontas, m. w, 
Powhatan, m. 
Rockbridge, m. 
Hockingham, m. 
Shenandoah, m. n. 
Spottsylvania, m. e. 
Stafford, n. e. 

Total 



Brooke, n. 10, 
Cabell, w. 
Giles, XV. 
Grayson, s. w. 
Greenbrier, m. w. 
Harrison, w. w. 
Kenawha, iv. 
Lee, s. w. 
Lewis, n. 10. 
Mason, w. 
Monongalia, n. iv. 
Monroe, m. w. 
Montgomery, s. w. 
Nicholas, w. 
Ohio, n. IV. 
Preston, n. w. 
Randolph, n. tv. 
Russel, s. tv. 
Scott, s. w. 
Tazewell, s. w. 
Tyler, n. -w. 
Washington, ». iv. 
Wood, n. xo. 
Wythe, s, w. 



Chief Towns, 


Pop. 1820. 


Huntersville 
Scottsville 


8292 


Lexington 


11945 


Harrisonburg 


14784 


Woodstock 


18926 


Fredericksburg 


14254 


Stafford C. H. 


9517 




655,265 


Mountainous Virginia. 


Wellsburg 


6611 


Cabell C. H. 


4789 


Parisburg 


4521 


Grayson C. H. 


5598 


Greenbrier C. H. 


7041 


Clarksburg 


10932 


Charleston 


6400 


Lee C. H. 


4256 


Weston 


4247 


Point Pleasant 


4868 


Morgantown 


11060 


Union" 


6620 


Christiansburg 


8733 


Nicholas C. H. 


2853 


Wheeling 


9182 


Kingwood 


3422 


Beverly 


3357 


Lebanon 


5536 


Estillville 


4263 


Jeffersonville 


3916 


Middlebourne 


2314 


Abingdon 


12444 


Parkersburg 


5860 


Evansham 


9692 



Total, 147,514 I, 

From the foregoing analysis we discover the very 
great inequality of distributive population in Virgi- | 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 62 I 

nia; on the Eastern section 30 to the square mile; 
on the Middle region 26; and on the Western only 
4^. The distribution of the castes is not less re- 
markable : 

In 1820, there were in the east and centre, whites 
452,930, of the coloured caste 424,370; whilst in the 
western there were, whites 132,790, and of the co- 
loured caste only 13,296; eastern and middle, the 
proportions of the castes very nearly 45 white to 42 
coloured; in the west, the whites were as 132 to 13 
to the coloured race. 

Of the whole aggregate population of Virginia, 
by the census of 1820, there were, 

Engaged in Agriculture 276,422 

Do Manufactures 32,336 

Do Commerce 4,509 

Progressive Population. 

1790 747,601 1810 974,622 

1800 886,149 1820 1,065,366 

The advance of population in Virginia it appears 
has been nearly steady, at about from 10 to 12 per 
cent, in 10 years. The increments in the first two 
periods demand a little higher ratio, but 11 per 
cent in the three periods come very near the result 
by the census. If the rate of increase is not acce- 
lerated it will demand nearly a century to double. 
The general existing population must be about 18 
to the square mile. 

History. — Virginia was the first Anglo-American 
colony, and "the first germ of a mighty nation." 
The name of Virginia was derived from Raleigh's 
patent, and was, at the period of colonization, the 
common English name for the eastern coast of 
North America. James I., by letters patent, April 
10th, 1606, granted to two companies, the London 
Company and the Plymouth Company, all that part 
of the American coast from N. lat. 34° to 45° un- 



622 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY 

der the names of North Virginia and South Virgi- 
nia. The latter effected an actual settlement on 
Powhatan, now James river. May 15, 1607, and thus 
commenced the UNITED STATES. The early 
advance was very slow; the colony was regarded 
with general indifference in England. In 1619 the 
first legislature was convened, an advantage more 
than counterbalanced, the ensuing year, by the in- 
troduction of the first African slaves. 

During the revolution in England, from 1642 to 
1660, Virginia espoused the royal cause, and was 
the first place where Charles II. was proclaimed on 
his restoration, and in 1661 the Episcopal church 
was established by act of Assembly. This and other 
acts equally injudicious produced a rebellion in the 
colony, in which the capital, Jamestown, was burned. 
The instigator of the insurrection. Bacon, died sud- 
denly, but Virginia was rewarded for its devotion to 
the Stewarts, by oppression which terminated only 
by the ruin of that misguided house. The revolu- 
tion in 1688, extended its salutary effects into every 
section of English domination, and Virginia shared 
the benefits. Nearly 80 years of peace and pros- 
perity was followed by the revolutionary struggle, 
in which Virginia gave to the sister colonies the 
whole of her energies, and, what was perhaps more, 
'Aie gave them a leader whose name adorns history, 
and whose character proves to what exalted eleva- 
tion human virtue may be raised. 

The constitution of Virginia was adopted July 
5th, 1776, and, except the illustrious acts of her sons 
in the two wars with Great Britain, the state has 
since the latter period afforded few events for his- 
tory. The establishment of the University of Vir- 
ginia at Charlottesville, March 1825, and recent at- 
tempts at an amendment of her constitution, are the 
only recent public acts particular to this state. 

THE END. 



INDEX. 



I* ^f* The reader will notice, that the individual counties 
are not included in this index, as they are already al- 
phabetically arrang-ed in Chapter Xn. under the heads 
of the respective states: therefore, to find any requir- 
ed county, turn to tlie state to which it belong-s, and it 
will be found in its place.] 

A. . ' 

Abercrombie, g"eneral, defeated, 39, 

Academy, military, at West Point, founded, 49, 

Africa, continent of, 353. 

African slaves, first introduced into Virginia, SO. 

Alabama, river, 286. 

Alabama, state of, admitted into the Union, 55; bounda- 
ries, &c., 484; natural ^ography, 485; political g-e- 
ography, 486. 

Alamatong river, 148. 

Alapapahah river, 291. 

Alatamahah river and sound, 90. 

Albany, city of, founded, 30; incorporated, 32. 

Alleg-hany river, 302. 

AmarisGOg-gin river, 188. 

Amboy bay, 148. 

America, geography and history of, remarks on, 13-14^ 
mountains of, 355. 

America, North, Bank of, 45; general description of, 
355-58. 

America, South, general description of, 354-55. 

America, first United States' ship of the line, 45. 

American Philosophical Society, transactions of, quoted, 
367-69. 

Amite river, 275. 

Andre, ma] or, taken, 43. 



624 tND£3c. 

Androscoggin river, 187. 

Angular southern points of the earth, 345. 

Ann, cape, 181. 

Annales de Chimie et de Physic|ue, quoted, 372, and 
414-20. 

Annapolis in Nova Scotia. See Port Royal, 26. 

Annapolis in Maryland, made the seat of government,- 
34. • 

Appalache river and bay, 291. 

Appalachian system of mountains, S7\ not a dividing line 
of its river sources, 58-64; features of 65-66; position 
and inflections, 66-67; elevation, 78-79; geological 
structure, 79; elegant features of its vallies, 84; chains 
of, 108; Catsbergs, 140; primitive ledge, a part of, 
147; inflections of in New Jersey, 151; chains of, 
their extension, 175; general position and extent, 356. 

Appalachicola river, 286-90. 

Arkansas river, 316. 

Arkansas, territory of, boundaries, &c., 487; natural ge~ 
ography, 488; political geography, 490; history, 491. 

Armada, great Spanish, defeated, 23. 

Army, American revolutionary, disbanded, 45. 

Arnold, general, liis defection and escape, 43 ; takes and 
burns New London, 43. 

Aroostook river, 196. 

Articles, provisional, of peace, 45. 

Asia, steppes or plains of, compared to the prairies of 
North America, 315, 321, 352; extent of the continent 
of, 341 ; its general structure, mountains, and rivers, 
35L 

Ashepoo river, 93. 

Ashley river, 95. 

Ashurst, Thomas. See ElUott, Hugh, 16. 

Assanpink creek, 149. 

Atchafalaya river, 265-68; the name defined, 265; rafts 
of, 474-76; improvement of its navigable facilities 
proposed, 476; outlet from the Mississippi, 478. 

Athens, university of, in Georgia, founded, 45. 

Atlantic coast of the United States, inflections of, 92; 
features of, 92, 97, 100, 101; tides of, 177; its regu- 



INDEX. 625 

lar physical structure, 186; tliat part bounding' the 

south-east of Maine, features of, 191. 
Atlantic ocean, extent of, 340; position relatively to the 

adjacent continents, 353. 
Atlantic slope of the United States, general view of, 58; 

extent of, 252-54. 
Atmosphere, an aerial ocean, which, as well as the 

aquatic mass below it, is a part of the planet, 359; re* 

volutions of, 414; is a ponderous body, 427. 
Auscilla river. See Ocklockonne river, 291. 



Baltimore, city of, 114; temperature, winds and rain at, 
387-91. 

Bank of North America, established, 45; of Massachu- 
setts, idem; first of the United States, that of New 
Hampshire, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, and Union 
bank of Boston, 47; second of the United States, 5S, 

Barnstable, peninsula or isthmus of, 173-75. 

Barrataria baj'-, 273. 

Basin, as a geographical term, defined, 59, note; great 
central of North America,~67. 

Basques, or Bretons, their early voyages to North Ame- 
rica, 15. 

Battles, of Lexington, Bunker's Hill, Quebec, Sullivan's 
Island, and Flat-Bush, 41 ; Trenton, Princeton, Ben- 
nington, Brandywine, Stillwater, Germantown, second 
of Stillwater, and surrender of General Bui'goyne and 
his arniy, 42; of Monmouth, Briar creek, Stono, na- 
val of Flamborough Head, and Savannah, 43; of Wax- 
haws, Hanging Rock, Camden, King's Mountain, Cow- 
pens, Guilford, second of Camden, Eutaw Springs, 
and surrender of Cornwallis and his army, 44; of Tip- 
pecanoe, 51; Tallapoosa, Tohopeka, Chippeway, and 
Bridgewater, 53; decisive of New Orleans, 54. 

Battle, naval, on Lake Erie, British squadron defeated 
and captured, 53; on Lake Champlain, British squad-. 
ron defeated a.nd captured, 54. 

Bays, gi'eat, of the Atlantic slope of the United StatcSj 



626 INDEX. 

58-63; Chesapeake, 60; Hudson, Narrag-ansett, Buz- 
zard, Massachusetts, Passamaquoddy, 61; Delaware, 
129; Buzzards, 173; Massachusetts, 176; Piscataqua, 
184; Ca'sco, 186; Kennebec, 188; Penobscot, 190; 
Machias, 192; St. John's, 197; Fundy, 198; Chaleur, 
199; Mobile, 283; Pensacola, 287; Appalache, 291; 
Vacasausa, 293; Tampa, 293; Gallivan'sa 293. 

Beaufort, port of, its position, 93. 

Bills of credit, emitted in New Jersey, 35; in Pennsyl- 
vania, 38; in Georg-ia, 39. 

Black river, confluent of Winyau bay, 95, 98. 

Black river, of New Jersey. See Alamatong-, 148. 

Black river, of New York, 227. 

Bluffs, eastern of the Mississippi, 277; reason why tliat 
stream encroaches on, 314. 

Borgne, lake, 275, 280. 

Boston, city of, founded, 30; port shut, 41; evacuated 
by the British, 41. 

Boston News-Letter, first Anglo-American periodical pa- 
per, 35. 

Bouchette*s Canada quoted, 245-6-7. 

Boundaries between Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Dela- 
ware fixed, 37; between New Hampshire and Massa- 
chusetts, 37. ^ 

Boundaries of the respective states and territories of the 
United States, Alabama, 484;- Arkansas, 487; Connec- 
ticut, 491; District of Columbia, 494; Delaware, 497; 
Florida, 499; Georgia, 502; Illinois, 508; Indiana, 512; 
Kentucky, 516; Louisiana, 522; Maine, 528; Maryland, 
532; Massachusetts, 538; Michigan, 542; Mississippi, 
547; Missouri, 552; New Hampshire, 558; New Jer- 
sey, 562; New York, 566; North Carolina, 573; Ohio, 
580; Pennsylvania, 588; Rhode Island, 597; South 
Carolina, 600; Tennessee, 605; Vermont, 610; Vir- 
ginia, 613. 

Braddock, general, defeated and slain, 39. 

Brantz, Lewis, his thermometrical tables, observations 
on, 339; again, 381. 

British army evacuates Boston, 41; operations of, 45; 
takes and in part burns Washington city, 54; is defeat- 
ed in Louisiana, 54. 



INDEX. 627 

Broad river, described, 92. 

Bronse river, 152. 

Brown university, founded, 40; remodelled, 49. 

Buenaventura river, 327. 

Burgoyne, general, surrenders, 42. 

Buzzard's bay, 173. 

Byron, Lord, quoted, 213-14. 

C. 

Cabot, .Tohn and Sebastian, discover tbe north-eastern 
coast of the continent of North America, 15. 

Cahaba river, 286. 

Calcasiu river, 263. 

Canada, discovered and colonized by the French, 26; 
ceded to Great Britain, 40; invaded and evacuated by 
the United States' army, 41; climate of, 203, 251; ca- 
nals of, 450-56. 

Canadian Land Company, 452. 

Canadian sea, usually called " The Lakes of Canada,-'* 
compared as to relative depth with the Caspian, 203 ; 
and in respect to relative^ extent, 228; both seas be- 
coming more shallow, 228. 

Canals, Middlesex completed, 49; Charleston and San- 
tee, 95; Chesapeake and Delaware, 115; and again, 
465; general remarks on those of the United States, 
232; one in Upper Canada, proposed from lake Onta- 
rio to lake Huron, 223; Welland, 224; and again, 451; 
Blackstone, 447; Farmington, 448; Champlain and 
Erie, 448; one proposed, to coast lake Erie from Buf- 
falo to Detroit, 453; Rideau, 456; Oswego, Seneca, 
Delaware and Hudson, and Morris, 457; canal system 
of Pennsylvania, 458; Chesapeake and Ohio, 459; one 
along Ohio river proposed, 459; Susquehanna basin, 
459; Potomac basin, 460; states of New York and Vir- 
ginia compared as to facility of artificial means of in- 
land navigation, 461; table of the James river and Ken- 
hawa route, 463; Dismal Swamp and Roanoke, 465; 
Santee and Pedee, 465-6; Alatamahah and Florida 
system, 466; Ohio system, 466-7; project of the truly 
honorable Caesar Rodnev, to coast the Mississippi river 
3 g2 



628 INDEX. 

with a line of canals, 467; general view of the Delta 
of the Mississippi, in respect to practicable improve- 
ments of its navigable facilities, 467; deepening the 
channel of the Mississippi over its outer bars propos- 
ed, 467; removing the rafts in Atchafalaya proposed, 
476. 

Canal stocks in England, table of, 481-2. 

Cape, Hatteras and Florida, 59; Malabar and Cod, 61; 
Cape Fear, 98; Lookout, 99; Hatteras, 100, 175; Cod 
described; 176; Quoddy Point, 187, 193; St. George, 
291; Romano and Sable, 293. 

Cape Breton island, 197. 

Cape Fear river, 98. 

Carolina, founded, 31; first constitution of, 32; first le- 
gislative assembly of, 32; proprietary government 
abrogated, and the colony divided, 35. See North 
and South Carolina. 

Cartier, James, of St. Maloes, discoveries of, in America, 
18, 21. 

Casco bay, 186. 

Caspian, sea of, compared to that of Canada, 203, 228; 
both seas becoming more shallow, 228-9. 

Catawba river, 286. ' 

Catholic college in Georgetown founded, 45. 

Catholic church in Boston founded, 46. 

Catsbergs or Catskill mountains, 140. 

Chaleur bay, 199. 

Chambly river, 242. 

Champlain, basin of, 241-2. 

Champlaine, Samuel, discoveries of, in North America, 
25. 

Chandler's river, 191. 

Charleston, South Carolina, founded, 33; basin of, and 
position of the city of, 95; mean temperature at, 409. 

Charter, first, of Virginia, 29; of Maryland, and that of 
Plymouth annulled by the crown of England, 30; that 
of Rhode Island granted to Roger Williams, 31; that 
of Connecticut granted, that of Carolina to Lord Cla- 
rendon, 32; tliat of Pennsylvania to William Penn, 
that of Massachusetts vacated by quo icanrmfo, that of 
Rhode Island vacated in the same manner, similar pro- 



INDEX. 629 

cess against New Jersey, 33; new charter gi-anted to 
Massachusetts, including Maine, 33; new charter or 
frame of government for Pennsylvania, granted by 
William Penn, 34. 

Chatahooche river, 287, 289, 290. 

Chaudiere river, 244. 

Chesapeake bay and basin, 104-5; and sequel to, 116. 

Chesapeake frigate attacked in time of peace, 50; taken, 
52. 

Chesapeake and Delaware canal, 115. 

Chestatee river, 284. 

Chifuncte river, 275. 

Chippewayan system of mountains, 56, 57, 67, 260; im- 
properly called Rocky mountains, 318; extent Of the 
system, 355-6, 

Choctawhatchie or Choctow river, 288. 

Chowan river, 102. 

Cincinnati, society of, formed, 41, 

Cincinnati, city of, tables of temperature and rain at, 
407-8; position, population, and improvement of, 
583-4. . 

Circumnavigation of the polar sections of the earth, re- 
marks on, 426-28. 

Clark's river, 328. 

Clearing of land, opinion of the Abbe Rosier on, 421; 
very slight effect of on general climate, 427; that of 
William Dunbar, 429. 

Climate of the United States, 92; on the southern shores 
of lakes Erie and Ontario, 221; the severity of that 
of Canada over-rated, 247; climate of Canada and 
that of the United States contrasted, 250; general 
view of the climate of the United States, from 331 to 
433; has not changed in Europe in the last 1400 years, 
418; observations and data respecting that of the east- 
ern continent, 421-33. 

Climate, laws of, 350. 

Clinton, De Witt, quoted 225-6, 261, note; the most ef- 
fective promoter of the New York canals, 448. 

Coast, south-east of Maine, features of, 191; of Louisi- 
ana, general remarks on, 278-80; mai-shy parts ad- 
vancing eastward along the gulf of Mexico, terminate 



630 INDEX. 

with the Rig-olets, 282; currents of air westward, 282; 
of Florida, 293. 

Coast, western of continents and large islands, why- 
warmer than eastern, 426. 

Cod, Cape, described, 176. 

Colieg-e of Harvard, now Cambridge, founded, 31; of 
Yale at New Haven, 34; of Newark in New Jersey, 
removed to Princeton, 38; St. John's in Annapolis 
and a Catholic in Georgetown, 45; Columbia, New 
York, 46; Columbia, South Carolina, 49. 

Colony, first English, in America, that of Sir Walter 
Raleigh, 21; remains of lost, 22; French at Port Roy- 
al, now Annapolis in Nova Scotia, 26; first in Virginia, 
29; in Massachusetts, 30; of Maryland, 30; of Rhode 
Island, 30; of New Hampshire, of New Haven, 31; 
of Connecticut, 32. 

Colonization in America, supported by the pen of Sir 
Richard Hakluyt, 24. 

Columbia, basin and river, 326-29. See Oregon. 

Columbia, District of. See District of Columbia. 

Commissioners, first sent from the United 'States to 
France, 42; from Great Britain to treat with Congress, 
42; to treat with Great Britain, sent from the United 
States to Europe, 52. 

Congaree river, 96. 

Connecticut river and basin, 161-68; compared with 
the Susquehanna, 164-69; peculiar features compared 
with the Hudson, 167; inundations compared with 
those of the Mississippi, 524. 

Connecticut, state of, first settlement of, 30; boundaries, 
&c., 491; political geography, 492; history, 493. 

Connecuh river, 287. 

Constitution, first, of Maryland, 31; of New Haven and 
Connecticut, 31; of Carolina, 32; of Delaware, 41; 
New Jersey, 41; of Virginia, 41; 2d of Maryland, oi 
North Carolina, 42; of Massachusetts, 43; of Pennsyl- 
vania, Vermont, Kentucky, South Carolina, Delaware, 
and New Hampshire, 47. 

Constitution, federal, formed and ratified, 45. 

Continent, each lias a prevailing system of mountains, 
351. ^ ^ 



INDEX. . 631 

Continental Congi'ess, proposed, adopted, and met, 40. 

Convention, of colonial governors, 39; to form the fede- 
ral constitution, 46; with France, 49; of Paris, by 
which Louisiana was ceded to the United States, 49. 

Cooper river, 95. 

Coosa river, 284-5. • 

Coosaw river, 93. . ' 

Coosawhatchie river. See Broad river, 92. 

Coosawda, village of, 285. ^ • 

Cornwallis, Lord, left to command the British arjny, 44; 
surrenders himself and army, 44. 

CoTToif, first exported from. South Carolina, 39; black- 
seeded introduced into Georgia, 46. 

Courtableau river, 266. 

Croton river, 152. 

Current of rotation, what, 360; of the Atlantic ocean, 
360-2. 

D. 

Daniel, Mr., his strictures on thermometrical observa- 
tions, 334. 

Dawhoo river, 94. 

Decatur, Stephen, bums the frigate Philadelphia in the 
harbour of Tripoh, 49. 

Delaware river, 61; river, bay, and basin, 124, 130. 

Delaware, state of, settled by the Swedes and Finns, and 
called New Sweden, 30; annexed to Pennsylvania, 33; 
separated from Pennsylvania, 35; boundaries and natu- 
ral geography, 497; pohtical geography and history, 
498. 

Delta, or inundated region embraced by the various out- 
lets of the Mississippi, 264; inundations of, 324; de-> 
scribed, 467-80. 

Denys, John, his discoveries in America, 17. 

District of Columbia, boundaries, &c., 494; political 
geography, 494; history, 496, 

Drake, George, discoveries of in America, and the effects 
of his pubhshed account of, 23. 

Drake, Dr. Daniel, his statistical view of the Miami coun- 
try, 408, 



632 INDEX. 

Dunbar, AVilliam, quoted, 428-9. 
Dutch settle on Hudson river, 29. 

E. 

Earth's motion, and the great physical divisions of its 
surface, 339-45; bearing from the meridians of its 
principal coasts, 346-49; height above its surface of 
perpetual snow, 349; its atmosphere, an aerial ocean, 
which, as well as the aquatic mass below it, is a part 
of the planet, 359; revolutions of the atmosphere, 414; 
the atmosphere a ponderous body, 427. 

Earth, zones and polar circles of, their cause explained, 
339-40; relative and particular extent of, 342-3. 

Edisto river and island, 93-4. 

Election, contested, between Thomas Jefferson and 
Aaron Burr, 49. 

Elliott, Hugh, and Thomas Ashurst, the first who re- 
ceived from the English government a patent to form 
a colony in America, 16. 

Embargo, general, 50, 53. 

England, Henry VII., king of, sends John Cabot to 
make discoveries in America, 15: reasons of the slow 
progress of tlie Enghsh iir America, 15; effects on the 
people of by the Spanish armada, 22. 

Enghshman's Bay, 191. 

Episcopacy introduced into Pennsylvania, 34. 

Erie, lake, 206-16; canal along its right shore proposed, 
453. 

Erie canal, 448. 

Etowah river, 284. 

Europe, a mere prolongation of Asia, 352; winds most 
prevalent of the south-east part, 371; of the western 
coasts of, 413; has the climate of chang-ed? 414; quo- 
tation from Annales de Chimie et de Physique, in the 
negative of such change, 414; brief history of the ex- 
tremes of aerial temperatiu-e in, 414-20; opinion of 
the Abbe Rosier on the effect of removing forests, 421 

F. 

Farmington river, 162-3. . 



INDEX. 6o3 

iParmington canal, 448. 

Fisheries, commencement of in North America, 15; those 
of France flourishing-, 17; those of England important, 
19; around Newfoundland extensive, 25, 27. 

Fleet, British, on Lake Erie defeated and captured, 53; 
on Lake Champlain defeated and captured, 54. 

Fhnt river, 290. 

Florida channel, rapidity of the gulf stream in, 363. 

Florida, orig-inal extent to which this name was apphed, 
and why subsequently restricted, 16-17, note; dis- 
covery of the country and orig-in of the name, 28. 

Florida, temtory of, ceded to the United States, 55; 
boundaries, &c., 449; natural g-eography, 449; politi* 
cal g"eogTaphy, 501; history, 502. 

Forest, great, of the Appalachian system, 257; of the 
Atlantic slope, bent to the east by the prevalent west- 
ern winds, 424. 

Fourche, La, river or outlet of the Mississippi, 272. 

France, eng-ag-es early in making- discoveries in America, 
and advances more rapidly than Eng-land in making- use 
of her discoveries, 16; checked by the failure of Ba- 
ron St. Lery, 17; house of Valois fails in, 20, 23; re- 
newed expeditions fron^to America, 23; Canadian furs 
imported into by M. de Chauvin, 24; g-rant of Henry 
IV. of to Du Monts, 25; treaty of alliance with the 
United States, 42. 

Frankhn, Benjamin, quoted, 14. 

Frig-ates, British, the Guerriere, Macedonian, and Java 
taken, 52; United States' frig-ate Chesapeake taken, 
52; Essex taken, 53. 

Frosts, intense of the eastern continent, brief abstract of, 
415-20. 

Fundy, bay of, 61, 193, 198. 



Gallivan's bay, 293. 

Galloupe, rapids and islands, 234, 249. 

Gasconade river, 320. 

Genesee river, 218. 

Geography, a moral science, 14, 



634 INDEX. 

Geology, a science of conjectiirej 2, 79. 

George, lake, 241. 

Georgia, state of, founded, 37; boundaries, &c., 502 ,• 
natural geography, 503; political geogi-aphy, 504; his- 
tory, 507. 

Germantown, near Philadelphia, founded, 35; battle of, 
42; temperature and winds at, 395-6-8; summer at, 
and at Baltimore compared, 399-400; rain at, 401. 

Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, voyage to America, 20; is lost, 
21. 

Gilbert, Bartholomew, voyage to America, and murder 
by the savages, 25. 

Glen, that of 4:he Hudson, Champlain, and Chambly, 80; 
compared to that of Scotland, 136-7. 

Glenn's Falls, 137. 

Gosnold, Bartholomew, discoveries in America, 24. 

Grand Portage, Riviere au, 200. 

Grand river of Upper Canada, 451. 

Greenland, not actually united by land to North Ameri- 
ca, 354; its effects on the climate of North America, 
354. 

Grenville,- Sir Richard, first English general in America, 
21. 

Guerriere, frigate, taken, 52. 

Gulf of Mexico, elevated above the Atlantic ocean oppo- 
site the bays of Chesapeake and Delaware, 3; bounds 
the central basin on the south, 63; surface, of more 
elevated than the Atlantic ocean, 86, 300-1. 

Gulf stream, cause of its motion, 3; flows out of the 
Gulf of Mexico, 86; intensity and direction of its cur- 
rent influences the tides on the Atlantic coast of the 
United States, 179; flows because the surface of the 
Gulf of Mexico is higher than that of the Atlantic 
ocean, 300-1; its course and cause fartlier illustrated, 
362-3; its great rapidity in the Florida channel. 

H. 

Hackinsack river, 151-2. 

Haines, Reuben, his meteorological papers acknowlcdg"- 
cd, 3, 4; his observations, 339; rcniarlvs on, 381. 



IWDEX. 635 

Hamilton, John, two meteorological tables from, 367;, 
369. 

Harmar, general, defeated, 47. 

Harper's Ferry, 112. 

Hatteras, cape, 59; features of, 60, 92, 100, 133. 

Henry VII., king of England, sends the Cabots to Ame- 
rica, 15; grants a patent for colonization to Hugh Elli- 
ott and Thomas Ashurst, 16. 

Hilton Head, position of, 93. 

Hore, a person of that name makes an abortive attempt 
to form a colony in America, 18, 19. 

House of Representatives, of the United States, ratio of 
fixed, 55. 

Housatonick river, 158, 159, 160, 161. 

Hudson river and its bay, 61; general features of the 
basin, 80, 81; a dividing limit between two sub-sys- 
tems of rivers, 87; described, 133, 146; compared with 
the Connecticut, 167-8. 

Humboldt, baron, quoted, 359, 360, 362, 431, 432. 

I. ^ 

Iberville outlet, 275. 

Illinois territory formed, 512; made a state, 512. 

Illinois, state of, boundaries, &c,, 508; natural geogra- 
phy, 509; political geography, 510; history, 512. 

Independence of the United States, declaration of, 41; 
acknowledged by the principal powers of Europe, 45. 

Indiana territory formed, 49; admitted into the Union as 
a state, 55. 

Indiana, state of, boundaries, &c., 512; natural geogra- 
phy, 513; political geography, 514; history, 516. 

Indians defeat generals Harmar and St. Clair, and are de- 
feated by general Wayne, 47. 

Indigo exported from South Carohna, 38. 

Inoculation for the small-pox introduced into Massachu- 
setts, 36. 

Inundations of the Atchafalaya, 270-1; of Arkansas and 
Red rivers, 316-17; of Missouri and Mississippi, 324- 
5; of the Mississippi and Connecticut compared, 
526-7, 

3h 



636 INDEX. 



J. 



James river, 105-9, 

Java frig-ate taken, 52. 

Jefferson's river, 318. 

Jersey, east and west united to form New Jersey, 34. 

See article New Jersey. 
Juniata river, 120-1. 

K. 

Kansas river, 319. 
Kennebec river and basin, 186-9. 

Kentucky, state of, boundaries of, &c., 516; natural g-eo- 
graphy, 517; political g-eography, 518; history, 520. 

L. 

La Fourclie river, 272. 

Lake, wb 9 1 constitutes one, defined, 258-9. 

Lakes of the United States, Umbag-og-, 187; Moosehead, 
188; Chesuncook, 190^ Superior, 200; Huron and 
Michig-an, 202-3; Erie, 204-10; Ontario, 217-18; Onei- 
da, 219; Cayuga, Seneca, Owasco, Canesus, Hemlock, 
Scancatica, Honeoye, Canandaig-ua, Crooked, Sken- 
eatelas, Ottisco, and Onondag-o, 220; George, 241; 
Champlain 241-2; Memphramag-og", 243; Sabine, 262; 
Calcasiu, 263; Mermentau, 264; Chetimaches, 268; 
Maurepas, 275; Pontchartrain, 275; Borg'ne, 275-6. 

Lakes of Canada. See Canadian sea. 

Land, clearing-, of timber, opinion of the Abbe Rosier 
respecting- the effect on aerial tempei-ature, 421; opi- 
nion of William Dunbar on the same subject, 429. 

Land, clearing-, observations to shew how very confined 
such effects mast be, 427. 

Lane, Sir Ralph, first Eng-lish g-overnor in America, 21 ; 
forms a colony on Roanoke, 21. 

Lawrence, captain, slain, 53. 

La\vrence, St., river of See St. Lawrence. 

Lawc of aerial temperature, 350. 



INDEX. 6o7 

Laws of the motion of water, 478. 

Lehigh, river and canals, 126-7. 

Les Annales de Chimie, &c. See Annales, Sec, 372. 

Lewis' river, 327. 

Lexington, battle of, 41. 

Lines of bearing, &c., 344-9. 

Little, llev. Robert, on thermometrical observation^ 
334-38. 

Live oak, its range in, 264, 421-2; along the Atlantic 
coast, 422. 

London Company, patent to, and settlement of Virginia 
by, 29. 

Long Bay, 98. 

Long Island, 59; described, 154-57. 

Long Island Sound, 157. 

Long, col. S. H., letter from to the author, 3, 4; his ac- 
count of the sources of Red river, 316. 

Louisiana, ceded by France to Spain, 39; taken posses- 
sion of by Spain, 40; receded by Spain to France, and 
by the latter to the United States, 49; admitted into 
the Union as a state, 51; invaded by a British army, 54; 
boundaries, &c., 522; natural geography, 522; expo- 
sure to excessive inundation, 524; political geography^ 
526; history, 528. 

Lovell, Dr., his meteorological Register, 376-7. 

Macedonian frigate taken, 52. 

Machias bay, 192. 

Machias, two small rivers, called relatively East and West 
Machias, 192. 

Mackenzie's Voyages, 430-31. 

M'Lean, John, Post Master general, acknowledgments 
of the author to, 4. 

Maclure's Geology, 163. 

Madison's river, 318. 

Maine granted to Mason, 30; unites with Massachusetts, 
51; purchased from Gorges by Massachusetts, 33; ad- 
mitted into the Union as a state, 55; boundaries, &c.> 
528; natural geography, 530; political geography, S31| 
history, 531. 

Manatoulin islands, 202-3. 

Manchac, pass of, 275, 



638 INDEX. 

Manhattan, or New York Island, 153. 

Maps included in this View. 

No. 1. Chart of the World, to face title pag-e. 

2. Georg-ia and Alabama, - . - S5 

5. North and South Carolina, - - . - 89 

4. Virg-inia, Maryland, and Delaware, - 105 

5. Pennsylvania and New Jersey, - - 115 

6. New York, .-..._ I33 

7. New England, 157 

8. Falls of Niagara, - - - - 209 

9. Louisiana and Mississippi, - - - 2S9 

10. Delta of the Mississippi, - - - 265 

11. Kentucky and Tennessee, - - - 297 

12. Illinois and Missouri, - - . 317 

13. Northern part of Maine; _ - . 539 

14. Ohio and Indiana, - - - - 581 

Marianne, pass of, 274. 

Maryland, charter of, and first settlement of, 30; first 
constitution of, 31; government of, restored to Lord 
Baltimore, 35; boundaries, &c. 532; natural geography, 
533; political geography, 535; history, 537. 

Massachusetts bay and canals described, 177-81. — See 
Middlesex and Blackstone canals. 

Massachusetts, state of, first settlement In, at Plymouth, 
1620,30; granted to Henry Boswell, charter of Ply- 
mouth annuHed by the crown, Maine united to, 31; first 
English printing' press in America, founded in, at Cam- 
bridge, 31; destructive war in, with the Indians, 32; 
New Hampshire separated from, and last charter of 

^ Massachusetts, 33; boundaries, &c. 538; natural ge- 
ography, 538; political geography, 540: history, 541. 

Massacre in Carolina by the savages, 35: of Indians, at 
Lancaster in Pennsylvania, 40: in Wyoming valley, 43;. 
of American prisoners at Dartmoor, 54: of Tndians, at 
Chehawtown, 35. 

Mattawaska river, 195. 

Maurepas, lake, 275. 

Medical school in Philadelphia, founded, 40. 



INDEX. 639 

Memphramagog", lake, 243. 

Merino sheep introduced into tlie United States, 49. 

Mermentau river and lake, 243-44. 

Merrimac river of the Atlantic slope, and its canal im- 
provements, 181-4. 

Merrimac river, of Missouri, 317. 

Middlesex canal, 49, 179-80. 

Michig-an, lake, 202. 

Michigan, territory of, boundaries, &c., 542; natui'al ge- 
ography, 544; political geography, 545; history, 546. 

iMilan decrees, 51. 

Millstone river, 148-9. 

Mingan settlement, 247. 

Mint, first in the Anglo-American colonies, 31. 

Mississippi river contrasted with the St. Lawrence, 
233-34; basin of, a part of the gi'eat central valley of 
Noi-th America, 259-60; outlets of, 273-4, and 280. 
View of its basin, 296-98. Mississippi proper, above 
its confluence with Missouri, valley of, 308; confluent 
rivers, 310; falls of, 311: extent of, 312. Lower sub- 
basin of, 312-18. Annual inundations, and why it 
cannot, except partially, change its bed, 324-5; deep- 
ening the channel at the mouth proposed, 467-9. 

Mississippi, territory of, formed, 49; western part ad- 
mitted into the Union as a state, 53. 

Mississippi, state of, its boundaries, &c. 547; natural ge- 
ography, idem; pohtical geography, 549; history, 551, 

Missouri, valley of, 313; river, its sources, 318; ex- 
treme northern bend, 319; general features j^and ex- 
tent, 320-25. 

Missouri, territory of, formed, 558; admitted as a state, 
idem. 

Missouri, state of, its boundaries, &c. 552; natural ge- 
ography, idem; political gography, 556-^ history, 557. 

Mobile, bay and river, 285-6. 

Mohawk river, 134-5. 

Mongos, river, 327. 

Monongahela river, 301-4. 

Montgomery, Gen., slain, 41. 

Montreal, island of, 234-5. 

Montreal City, 2Q5-6. 

3h2 



640 INDEX. 

Monts, Pierre du Gast, Sieur du, grant to, 25; comes to 
America, and forms a colony at Port Royal, now An- 
napolis, in Nova Scotia, 26. 

Motion, hourly, of a particle of matter on the earth's 
surface round its axis, at every 10° of latitude, 359. 

Mountains, specifically distinct from hills, 64-5; rule to 
determine how far a mountain can be seen, the height 
given, by an eye on the earth's surface, 185; each con- 
tinent nas a predominant system, 351-2. 

Multnomah river, 327-8. 

Muriate of soda (common salt), where found most abun- 
dantly in the United States. 

N. 

Napoleon, emperor, his decrees and spoliations on 
American commerce, 50. 

Natchez, winters at, 428-9; intense frost at, 429. 

Narragansett, bay of, 60; described, 171-3. 

Narraguagus river, 191. 

Navigation Act, English, enforced in Virginia, 31. 

Navigation, from New-Orleans to western Louisiana, 
268; inland of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama, 
280; general sketch of the inland navigation of the 
United States, 446-80; means proposed to meliorate 
that of Loui siana, 477- 80. 

Neuse river, 99. 

Neutrality, proclamation of, 47. 

Newfoundland, discovered, 15; its primitive extent, 
16; why, and to what extent resti-icted, 16-17, note; 
again, 29. 

Newark, college of. New Jersey, removed to Prince- 
ton, 38. 

New Hampshire, granted to Gorges and Mason, 30; sold 
by Gorges to Mason, idem; claimed by the heirs of 
Mason, and adjudged to them by Charles II., 31; fi- 
nally separated from Massaclmsetts, 33; first constitu- 
tion of, 36; boundaries, Sec. 558; natural gcograpliy, 
559; history, 560. 

New Iboria, 268. 



INDEX. 641 

New Jersey, east and west, united, 35; bills of credit 
emitted, 35; Atlantic slope of, 130; boundaries, &c. 
562; natural g-eography, 562; political geography, 
563; history, 565. 
New Netherlands, now New York, settled by the Dutch, 
30. 

New Orleans, port of, closed, 49; given up, with all the 
residue of Louisiana, to the United States, 49; be- 
sieged by the British, and battles near, 54; navigable 
channels from, to the western part of the state, 268. 

Newspaper, first Anglo-American, 35; first in Pennsyl- 
vania, 35; in New York and in Rhode Island, 37. 

New York, called by the Dutch, New Netherlands, con- 
quered by the English, 32; boundaries, &c. 566; natu- 
ral geography, 567; political geography, 568; histo- 
ry, 572. 

Niagp,ra river and cataract, 209-16; direct fall of the 
cataract, in the note, 212. 

Non-Intercourse Act, passed, 50; renewed, 51. 

North. America, early discoveries in, by the Bretons, and 
by the Cabots, 15: French and English, 16; area of, 
with Greenland; 341; general view of, 355-8. 

North. America, Bank of, 45. 

North Carolina, first settlement in, 32; granted to Lord 
Clarendon, 32; boundaries, &,c. 573; natural geogra- 
phy, 574; political geography, 576; history, 580. 

Northwest passage, abortive attempts to find, 27. 

O. 

Ocklockonne river, 291. 

Ocracocke Inlet, 100. 

Ogeechee river, 91. 

Ohio river and valley, 298, 308. 

Ohio, state of, boundaries, &c., 580; natural geogi'aphy, 

581; political geography, 583; history, 587. 
Oneida river and lake, 219. 
Ontario, lake, 217-18: a deep chasm, 224-5. 
Oostenalah river, 285. 
Opelousas, prairies of, 263. 
Orange Fort — See Albany. 
Orange tree, 422. 
Oregon, territory of, 326^30.— See Columbia, 



642 INDEX. 

Osage river, 320. 

Ossabow island and sound, 91. 

Oswegatchie river, 227. 

Ottawas river, 227, 235. 

Ouachitta river, 473. 

Ouse river. — See Grand river, 451. 

P- 

Pacific slope of North America, 58; that part contained 
in the United States, briefly described, 326-30; cli- 
mate of, more temperate than that of the Atlantic on 
similar latitudes, 423-26. 

Palatines and other Germans settle in America, 35. 

Pamptico sound, 99, 100. 

Paper money, issued in Massachusetts, 33; in New York, 
35; in New Hampshire, 35; in Pennsylvania, 36. 

Parry, Capt., his second voyage quoted, 378. 

Pascagoula river and sound, 282. 

Passaic river, 150-2. 

Passamaquoddy bay, 192-3. 

Passampsic river, 161-2. 

Patapsco river, 113-14. 

Patuxent river, 113. "^ 

Paucatuck river, 171. 

Pawtucket river, 171-2. 

Pawtuxet river, 171. 

Pearl, basin and river, 276-8. 

Pedee river, 97-6. 

Peace, between the United States and Great Britain, 
provisional articles of, 45; definitive treaty of, 45; se- 
cond treaty of peace, 54. 

Penobscot river and basin, 189-91. 

Peninsulas of Scandinavia, Spain, Italy, Greece, Arabia, 
Indostan, Malacca, Cambodia, Corea, and Kamschatka, 
and on the still larger scale, Asia, Africa, and the two 
Americas, protrude points southward, 345. 

Pennsylvania, patent of, to William Penn, 33 ; bounda- 
ries, &c., 588; natural geography, 599; political ge- 
ography, 592; history, 596. 

Peninsulas of Florida, Cape Cod, and Chesapeake, 85; 
Plorida described, 85-6; of Nova Scotia, 197-8. 



IKDEX. 643 

!PensaCola bay and basin, 286. 

Perdido bay, 286. 

Philadelphia, temperature and winds at, 391-3. 

Pike, Gen., slain, 52. 

Piscataqua basin, 184. 

Piscataquis river, 190. 

Pittsburg-, formerly Fort Du Quesne, taken by the Bri- 
tish, 39; elevation above the Gulf of Mexico, 302-3 j 
population and flourishing state of, 594-5. 

Plateauof Asia, 351-2. 

Platte river, 319. 

Pleasant river, 191. 

Plaquemine river, 267. 

Playfair, professor, his account of the prevalent winds of 
N. E. Asia, and of Great Britain, 371. 

Plymouth Company, patent to, 29 ^ Plymouth, town of, 
in Massachusetts, founded, 30. 

Pocahontas, married to Mr. Rolf, 29; saves the life of 
Capt. Smith, 30. 

Pompton river, 151. 

Pontchartrain, lake, 275. 

Port Royal, now Annapolis, in Noya Scotia, founded by 
the French, 26. 

Portsmouth Harbour, 184. 

Potomac river, 110-13. 

Prairies of the central parts of North America, and the 
Steppes of Asia compared, 315, 316, 321, 3SQ, 358; 
their great extent, 358. 

Presumscot basin — See Casco, 186. 

Primitive strata of the Atlantic slope, 81, 84, 147-8. 

Printing, first English in America, founded at Cam- 
bridge in Massachusetts, 31; Printing presses forbid- 
den in Virginia, 33. 

Providence, city of, in Rhode Island, founded, 30. 

Provisional articles of peace, 45. 

Provisional army disbanded, 49. 

Q. 

Quarterly Journal of Science quoted, 366. 
Quercus Semperviregs — See Live Oak, 264. 



644 INDEX. 

Quinte, bay of, 223. 
Quoddy Head, 192; Point, 193. 

Quo Warranto, writs of, issued against Massachusetts, 
Rhode Island, and New Jersey, 33. 

R. 

Rafts in Atchafalaya, 269-70; their extent and mass, 
474-6; their removal proposed, 476-8. 

Rain at Baltimore, 391; at Germantown, 401; at New- 
Harmony, 405. 

Raleigh, Sir Walter, grant to, 21; attempts a colony 
which fails, 22; his patent vacated, 29. 

Rappahannoc river, 109-10. 

Raritan river and basin, 149-50. 

Ratio of Representation in the United States House of 
Representatives, fixed, 55. 

Red river, 316; the true American Nile, 471; its en- 
trance into Louisiana, 471; features of, 472; Rafts, 473. 

Regulators in North Carolina, 41. 

Retcoudiac river, 198. 

Rhode Island, colony founded by Roger Williams, SO; 
boundaries, &c., 597; natural and political geography, 
598; history, 599. 

Rice introduced into South Carolina, 34, 

itideau canal, 456. 

Ridge road, south of lake Ontario, 225-26. 

Rigolets, 275-6. 

Ristigouche river, 199. 

Rivers, symmetrical inflections of, in the United States, 
64; Falls of, along the Atlantic slope, 80, 84/ the 
Hudson and St. John's of Florida, 87; remarks on 
their floods, 129; their inflections compared, 152-3, 
196. 

Roanoke river and basin, 101-3. 

Roberval, Francis de la Roque, lord of, his voyages to 
America, 20. 

Roche, Marquis de la, attempts a colony in America, 24. 

Rocky Mountains — See Chippewayan. 

Roman Catholic Bishop, first in the United States, 46. 



INDEX. 645 

Romano, cape, 293. 

Rotation, cuiTent of, cause of, 359-60. 

Royal Society of London, transactions of, quoted, 373. 

Rule to find how far the summit of a mountain, height 
being- given, and independent of refraction., can be 
seen by an eye on the earth's surface, 185. 



Sabine river and lake, 262. 

Saco river and basin, 185. 

Sacondago river, 135. 

Sacondago mountains, 140. 

Saguenai river, 245-7. 

Saint Andrew's sound, 89. 

Saint Andrew's bay, 286. 

St. Croix river, 193. 

Saint Espiritu Santo — See Tampa, 293. 

Saint Francis river, 242-3. 

St. George, cape of, 291. 

St. Helena Sound described, 93, 

St. Ilia river, 89. 

St. John Bayou, or creek,^76. 

St. John's river of Florida, described, 87-8. 

St. John's river of Maine and New Brunswick, 194-7. 

St. Lawrence river and basin, 200; fall of St. Mary, 201? 
lakes Michigan and Huron, 202; lake Erie, 204; table 
of stationary distances, 205; Niagara river and Cata- 
ract, 209-16; lake Ontario, 217; table of the relative 
heights of its principal lakes, 217 i lower sub-basin, 
and Genesee river, 218; Oneida river and lake, 319; 
valley of Seneca river, 220; general remarks on the 
entire basin, 221-30; quantity of water, 230-32; an- 
nual discharge, 232-3; uniform height of its floods, 
233 ; contrasted with the Mississippi, 233-4; Otta- 
was river, 234-5; Montreal, city of, 235-6; table of 
stationary distances, down the main stream from lake 
Ontario to the head of the island of Anticosti, 236-8; 
tides of, pass the primitive barrier, 238-9; Thousand 
Islands, 239; lake Champlain, 241; lake George, 241; 



646 INDEX. 

Saguenai river, 246; Betsiamitis, &c. 247; remarks, 

247-51; tables of extent, 255-7. 
St. Lery, baron de, 17. 
St. Louis river, 200. 
St. Mark's river, 291. 
St. Mary, fall of, 201. 

St. Mary's river of Georgia and Florida described, 88. 
St. Mary's river of Nova Scotia, 197-8. 
St. Rose's island, bay, and sound, 286-8. 
San Clementina river, 327. 
Santee river, 96-7. 
Savannah river, 91. 

Schoodic river — See St. Croix river, 193. 
Schuylkill river and canals, 127-8. 
Seneca river, 219-21. 
Shenandoah river. 111. 
Sipsy river, 283. 

Shore, eastern, of Chesapeake bay, 114-16. 
Slopes, or great inclined planes of North America, 356-8, 
Society of Cincinnati formed, 41. 
Sorrell river — See Chambly, 242. 
Sounds, St. Helena, 93; Pamptico, 99, 100; Albemarle, 

101-3; Pascagoula, 281. - 
South America, 354-5. 
South Carolina, first settlement of, 32; boundaries, &c,, 

600; natural g-eography, 601; political geography, 

602; history, 604. 
Spaniards repulsed from Georgia, 38. 
Spotswood, Mr., penetrates the Ohio valley from Vir- 
ginia, 35. 
Stamp Act passed, 40. 
Staten Island, 153. 
Steppes of Asia, compared with the prairies of North 

America, 321, 352, 358. 
Stoney Point stormed, 43. 
Stono river, 94. 

Superior, lake, 200; features of its shores, 203. 
Susquehanna river and valley, 116; compared with the 

Connecticut, 164-5. 
Suwannee river, 291-2. 



INDEX. 647 

Swedes and Finns form a colony on the Delaware, 30; 
submit to the Dutch of New Amsterdam, 31. 



1. Area of the United States by zones, 57. 

2. Ascents and Descents along- James and Ken- 

hawa rivers, southern route, 68. 

3. Ascents and Descents along James and Ken- 

hawa rivers, northern route, 69. 

4. Ascents and Descents along- Potomac river, 

&c., to lake Erie, 70. 

5. Ascents and Descents along Delaware river, 

&c., to lake Erie, at Buffalo, 71. 

6. Ascents and Descents along the Erie canal, 72. 
f . Ascents and Descents along a meridian 3° W. 

from Washington, 72. 

8. Ascents and Descents along a meridian 12° 

W. from Washington, 73. 

9. Ascents and Descents along- the meridian of 

the city of Mexico, 74. 

10. Ascents and Descents from Cape Hatteras, on 

the Atlantic,- to the mouth of Columbia on 
the Pacific ocean, 76. 

11. Ascents and Descents along St. L<awrence, 

&c.,78. 

12. Stationary distances from lake Huron to 

Erie, 205. 

13. Relative height of lakes Superior, Huron, 

&c., 217-18. 

14. Quantity of water contained in the Canadian 

sea, 231. 

15. Stationaiy distances down St. Lawrence, 

236-8. 

15. Repeated (error of the press). Of the extent 

and geographical position of the basins of 
the Atlantic slope, 252-4. 

16. Area of the St. Lawrence basin by the 

rhumbs, 255. 

17. Position and extent of the sections of St, 

Lawrence basin, 256, 
3i 



648 INDEX. 

Table 18. Summary of the Atlantic slope and St. Law- 
rence basin, 257. 

19. Extent and geographical position of the 

smaller basins in the vicinity of the Delta 
of the Mississippi, 295. 

20. Relative extent of the vallies of the Missis- 

sippi basin, 297. 

21. Area of the Southern, Indian, and Pacific 

oceans, 340. 

22. Atlantic ocean, and connected seas, 340. 

23. Summary of oceanic area, 341. 

24. Land area, 341. 

25. Summary of land and water, 342. 

26. Land area of the torrid zone, 342. 

27. Land area of the southern temperate zone, 342. 

28 . Land area of the northern temp erate zone, 342. 

29. Land area of the northern polar circle, 343. 

30. Land area of the southern polar circle, 343. 

31. Deflections from the meridians, &c,, 346. 

32. Heightof perpetual snow, 349. 

33. Degree of longitude, &c., 359. 

34. Temperature of the sea in both hemispheres, 

364. 

35. Monthly mean temperature at Santa Cruz, 365. 

36. Temperatiu'e of air over the Gulf Stream, 

367-68. 

37. Prevalent winds over North Atlantic ocean, 

369. 

38. Temperature and winds at Turin, 370. 

39. Western winds at Paris, 372, 

40. Temperature and winds at London, 373. 

41. Westerly winds in Northamptonshire, 374. 

42. Temp, and winds at U. S. military posts, 376. 

43. Weather do. 377. 

44. Winds at North American Polar sea, 378. 

45. Elevation and temp. U. States, 379, 380. 

46. Caloric, winds, &c. Washington City, 382. 

47. Monthly and annual temp, at Washington 

City,' 384. 

48. Winds at Washington City, 386. 

49. MctcoroloGrical observations at B.iUimorc, 387. 



INDEX. 649 

Table 50. Temperature near Baltimore, 388. 

51. Excess of heat and cold at Baltimore, 389. 

52. Monthly winds do. 390. 

53. Depth of rain at Baltimore, 391. 

54. Temp. Philadelphia, James Young, 392. 

55. Annual winds at Philadelphia, 393. 

56. Monthly temperature at Germantown, 394. 

57. Extremes of temp, at Germantown, 395. 

58. Winds at Germantown, 396. 

59. Temp. July, 1828, Washington City, 397. 

60. Temp. July, 1828, Germantown, 398. 

61. Summer at Baltimore and Germantown, 399. 

62. Rain at Germantown, 401. 

63. Temp, of Philadelphia and New Harmony 

compared, 402. 

64. Temperature of New Harmony, 403. 

65. Winds at New Harmony, 404. 

66. Rain at New Harmony, 405. 

67. .Excess of temp, at New Harmony, 406. 

68. Temperature at Cincinnati, 407. 

69. Winds at Cincinnati, 408. 

70. Temperature, Charleston, South Carolina,409. 

71. do. do. do. 410. 

72. Temp. Richmond, Virginia, 411. 

73. Winds of the U. S. above N. lat. 35°, 412. 

74. Winds of U. S. below N. lat. 35°, 413. 

75. Maximum of cold in Europe, 419. 

76. Maximum of heat in Europe, 420. 

77. Population of the United States by the cen- 

sus of 1810 and 1820, 435. 

78. Classified and progressive population, 436. 

79. Estimated progressive population from 1790 

to 1940, 437. 

80. Population of the central basin, 1810 and 

1820, 444. 

81. Estimated population of the central basin, 

from 1826 to 1875, 445. 

82. Stationary distances along S. E., S., and S. 

W. sides of lake Erie, 454. 
Of canal stocks in England, 481-2. 



650 INDEX. 

of the counties in Alabama, 486-7'. 

Arkansas, 490. 

Connecticut, 492. 

District of Columbia, 496. 

Delaware, 498. 

Florida, 501. 

Georgia, 505-7. 

Illinois, 510-11. 

Indiana, 514-15. 

Kentucky, 519-21. 

Louisiana, 526-27. 

Maine, 531. 

Maryland, 536. 

Massachusetts, 541. 

Michigan, 546. 

Mississippi, 550-51„ 

Missouri, 556-57. 

New Hampshire, 560. 

New Jersey, 56A!. 

New York, 570-72. 

North Carolina, 577-7Q. 

Ohio, 585-87. 

Pennsylvania, 594-96. 

Rhode Island, 599. 

South Carolina, 603-4. 

Tennessee, 607-8. 

Vermont, 612. 

Virginia, 618-20. 
Tallahasse, town of, 291. 
Tallahatcha river — See Yazoo, 283. 
Tallapoosa river, 284-85. 
Tampa bay, 293. 
Tangipao, 275. 
Taunton river, 172, 181. 
Teche river, 263, 267-68. 
Temperature, difference of, its laws, 350. 
Temperature, influenced by relative height, 351. 
Tennessee I'iver, 284. 

Tennessee, state of, first white settlements in, 39; terri- 
tory of, ceded by North Carolina to the United States, 
46; formed into a territory south ofOliio river, 46-7; 



INDEX. 651 

admitted into the Union as a state, 48 ^ boundaries and 
natural geography, 605; political geography, 606; his- 
tory, 609. 

Thames river of Connecticut, 169-71. 

Thermometers, when invented, 414. 

Thermometrical observations, strictures on, 332-4; tlie 
opinion of Mr. Daniel on, 334; Rev. Robert Little on, 
335-8. 

Thousand Islands, 226, 240, 248, 249. 

Three Rivers, 236. 

Tides on the Atlantic coast of the United States, 62; in- 
fluenced by Cape Cod peninsula, 178; by the Gulf 
Stream, 179; in the St. Lawrence, 236. 

Tombigbee river, 283-84. 

Trade winds, 362. 

Treaty of Philadelphia, 27 i of alliance between the Uni- 
ted States and France, 42; definitive of peace, 47; 
GrenviUe, 48; with Algiers, Tripoli, and Tunis, MS; 
of peace with Great Britam, 54; Florida ceded, 55. 

Trent river, 229-30. 

Turin, transactions of the Royal Academy of, quoted, 
370; relative position of that city, 371. 

Tuscaloosa river, 283-84. 

U. 

University of Virginia fbrmed by charter, 34; of Brown, 
Rhode Island, 4'); Athens, in Georgia, 45; Transylva- 
nia, in Kentucky, 49, 

United States, augmenting in importance, 14; history of, 
knows no fabulous age, 41; term as a distinctive name, 
when first adopted, 14; treaty of alliance witli France, 
42; navy of, increased, 51; second war with Great 
Britain, 51; invades and evacuates Canada, and Gen. 
Hull surrenders Michigan territory to the British, 52; 
British frigates Guerriere, Macedonian, and Java, ta- 
ken, 52; peace with Great Britain, 54; General View 
of its position, limits, and extent, 56-84; remarks on 
its extent and features, 329-30; tables of the popula- 
tion of, 435-441; distributive population, 442-46; ca- 
nals, &c. of, 446-462; internal improvement in, 461- 
3i2 



652 INDEX. 

80; canal stocks in England, 481-82; states and teni- 
tories of, 484-623; Alabama, 484 ; Arkansas, 487; 
Connecticut, 491; District of Columbia, 494; Dela- 
ware, 497; Floridas, 499; Georgia, 502; Illinois, 508; 
Indiana, 512; Kentucky, 516; Louisiana, 522; Maine, 
528; Maryland, 532; Massachusetts, 538; Michigan, 
542; Mississippi, 547; Missouri, 552; New Hampshire, 
558; New Jersey, 562; New York, 566; North Caro- 
lina, 573; Ohio, 580; Pennsylvania, ^588; Rhode Island, 
597; South Carolina, 600; Tennessee, 605; yermont, 
610; Virginia, 613-22. 

V. 

Vacasausa bay, 293. 

Valley, as a geographical term, defined, 59, note. 

ValHes, two kinds of, in the Appalachian system, 80. 

Vassali Eandi, quoted, 370. 

Vaughan, John, secretary to the A. P. S.j acknowledg- 
ment to, 4. 

Vegetables afFord criteria of climate, 421-22. 

Vermillion river, 264-65. 

Vermont, first grants in, 38; boundaries and natural ge- 
ography, 610; political geography, 611; history, 612. 

Verrazzana, John, discoveries of, in America, 18. 

Virginia, origin of the name, 21; divided into North Vir- 
ginia, 29; first effective colony in, 29; second charter 
of, 29; first general assembly in, 30; submits to Crom- 
well, 31; royal government restored, 31; university of, 
incorporated by charter, 34; Board of Public Works 
in, 69; boundaries, &c., 613; natural and pohtical ge- 
ography, 614; history, 621. 

Volcanic phenomena, not found in the Appalachian sys- 
tem of mountains, 66. 

Volney, liis theory of the climate of the United States 
rejected, 332-33. 

Voyage, first from the United States to China, 45, 



W. 



Waccamaw river, 95„ 
Wadmelaw island, 94. 



INDEX. 653 

Wallenstein, M. Jules de, quoted^ 331. 

Walling-ford, or New Haven basin, 129. 

Wall Kill river, 143-44. 

War in Connecticut, with, and ruin of, the Pequods, 30? 
war called Philip's, 32? war, second with Great Bri- 
tain j 51. 

Washing-ton, George, commences his military life, 38; 
made commander in chief of the American army, 41 ; 
his farewell address, 45; resigns, and retires to pri- 
vate life, 45; elected President of the United States, 
46; elected to the same office a second time, 47; pro- 
claims neutrahty, 47; appointed a second time com- 
mander in chief of the United States army, 48. 

Washington, city of, becomes the seat of the United 
States g-overnment, 49; taken and in part burned by 
the British, 54; treaty of, between the United States 
and Spain, 55:, temperatui'e and winds at, 382-86; re- 
marks on, 495. 

Wassau island and sound, 91. 

Wappo Cut, 94. 

Wateree river, 95. 

Weekly Mercury, first newspaper in Pennsylvania, 36. 

Welland river and canal, 224, 451. 

Western Posts, Detroit, &c. given up to the United 
States, 48. 

West Point military academy, founded, 49. 

Wheelwright's grant, 30. 

Wilmington, of Delaware, founded, 37. 

Winds, Trade, 362; prevalent over the northern tem- 
perate zone of the earth, from 331 to 434. 

Witchcraft madness in Massachusetts, 34. 

AVinters, more intensely cold in the central basin, than 
on equal latitudes of the Atlantic slope of the United 
States, 380-81; of Europe, 418-30; more mild on the 
western than on the eastern coast of America, 424; 
more mild on the western coast of America than on 
the eastern coast of Asia, 426. 

Winj^aw river, 95-7. 

Wyoming valley, settled from Connecticut, 41; massa- 
cre in, 43. 



654 



Yale College at New Haven, founded, 34. 

Yazoo river, 283. 

Yellow fever in Philadelphia, 47. 

Yellowstone river, 318-19. 

Yellow Water river, 286. 

York river, 109. 

Yorktown, in Virginia, Cornwallis surrenders his army 

at, 44. 
Yorktown, in Upper Canada, is taken and Gen. Pike 

slain, 52. 



Z. 

Zizania aquatica, or wild rice, 312. 

Zones of the earth explained, 339-40; their extent, 

342-43. 



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teen select Maps in imperial quarto. 
Price, half bound, - - - 3 00 

No. 11. A new Map of North America on four 
sheets, embracing all the recent disco- 
veries of Ross, Parry, Franklin, Long, 
&c. &c. Price, mounted on rollers, or 
in a portable form, - - - 8 00 

No. 12. A 4 sheet Map of Europe, improved 

to 1828. Price, .... 7 00 

No. 13. Do. Asia, do. do. do. 7 00 

No. 14. Do. Africa, do. do. do. 7 00 

No. 15. A new ]Map of South America, in two 

sheets, do. do. - - 4 00 

The Maps numbered 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15, are 
usually sold together ; they form a set 
on which is delineated the entire sur- 
face of the earth, and present as com- 
plete a body of geographical informa- 
tion on the known world, as the exist- 
ing state of knowledge will admit. 
Price of the set, mounted on rollers 
and varnished, - - - - 33 00 

No. 16. Map of the World on the Globular pro- 
jection, two sheets. This Map, although 
designed for the library and counting- 
house, wUl be found highly useful in 
schools, for which it is well adapted ; 
its grand divisions are distinctly mark- 
ed, and the various governments rea- 
dily distinguished. Price on rollers 
and varnished, " - - 3 00 



No. 17. A new Map of the United States of 
Mexico, on one imperial sheet, drawn 
from the latest and best authorities, 
and exhibiting their subdivisions as 
they now exist ; with numerous tables, 
&c. Price, in pocket case, - 

No. 18. Map of the Eoads, Canals, and Steam- 
boat routes of the United States, with 
the distances from place to place, and 
a series of tables showing the principal 
Steam-boat routes throughout the coun- 
try. Price, in pocket case. 

No. 19. Map of the existing and contemplated 
Canals of the state of Pennsylvania, 
coloured so as to distinguish between 
such as are finished or in progress, and 
those merely proposed. Price, 

No. 20. Map of the New England States, for tra- 
vellers, in pocket case. 

No. 21. Map of the state of New York, do. do. 

No. 22. Map of the states of Pennsylvania and 
New Jersey, for travellers, do. do. - 

No. 23. Map of the states of- Ohio and Indiana, 
do. do. - . . - - 

No. 24. Map of the states of Vir^nia, Maryland, 
and Delaware, do. do. - 

No. 25. Map of the states of Kentucky and 
Tennessee, do. do. ... 

No. 26. Map of the states of North and South 
Carolina, do. do. - - - - 

No. 27. Map of the states of Georgia and Alaba- 
ma, do. do. 

No. 28. Map of the states of Louisiana and Mis- 
sissippi, do. do. - - - - 

No. 29. Map of the states of Illinois and Missou- 
ri, do. do. 

No. 30. Map of the territory of Florida, do. do. 

The State Maps numbered from 20 to 30 in- 
clusive, arc from the American Atlas, 



projected and drawn on a uniform 
scale of fifteen miles to the inch ; they 
embrace in addition to former surveys, 
those made by order of the United 
States government ; copies of these 
surveys, as they progress, are regular- 
ly forwarded to the author, by whom 
tiiey are immediately inserted on the 
plates. By these means, and the faci- 
lities of procuring other information, 
afforded by an extensive correspond- 
ence, the maps are made to keep pace 
with the improvement of the country, 
and to exhibit at all tiniest the exist- 
ing state of geographical inforn\^tion 
regarding the United States, and con- 
tiguous countries. The set, consisting 
of eleven Maps, printed on silk paper, 
is put up in a portable case for the 
convenience of travellers. Price, $12 and 15 00 
The same maps are put up separately on mus- 
lin, in a portable case. Price, each, - 2 00 
No. 31. Chart of the World on Mercator's pro- 
jection, one large sheet, - - 1 00 
No. 32. Map of Europe, one large sheet, - IfOO 
No. 33. Map of Asia, one large sheet - . - 1 00 
No. 34. Map of Africa, do. - - - 100 
No. 35. Map of America, do. - - - 1 00 
No. 36. The four preceding Maps pasted toge- 
ther on one sheet of canvas, and rol- 
ler, suitable for schools. Price, - 5 50 
No. 37. Map of North America, one large sheet, 1 00 
No. 38. Map of the United States, medium sheet, 50 
No. 39. Map of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, 

Newfoundland, &c. - - . 1 00 

No. 40. Chart of Delaware Bay, two sheets, - 1 00 

No. 41. Dissected Map of the World, one large 

sheet, - - - . - - - 2 50 

No. 42. Do. Europe, do. - 2 50 



8 

No. 43. Do. Asia, do. - 2 50 

No. 44. Do. Africa, , do. - 2 50 

No. 45. Do. United Statesjdo. - 2 00 

No. 46. The Mariner's Atmospherical Register 

or Weather Book, - - - 2 50 

No. 47. A general Outline of the United States, 

with plates, - - - - 2 50 

No. 48. Atlas of Outline Maps of the World, and 

Quarters, the set, - - . - 50 

No. 49. School Atlas, consisting of the World, 

Quarters, and United States, - - 50 

No. 50. A Geological Survey of the Environs 

of Philadelphia, with a Map coloured 

geologically. Price, - - - 63 

No. 51. Map of the country 15 miles around 

Philadelphia, with the roads, public 

houses, &c. in a pocket case, - 50 

No. 52. Maps of the World, Europe, Asia, Afri- 
ca, and America, mounted on rollers 
and varnished, suitable for counting 
houses, schools, &c. Price each, $1 50 ^ 
or for the set, - - - - - 7 00 

These Maps will be found highly useful in mercantile 
establishments, as they present a complete general view 
of the whole world, with the most important commer- 
cial places distinctly marked. For school purposes they 
are also peculiarly adapted, as they supercede in a great 
measure thoselarge and costly Maps which have hitherto 
been used in public seminaries ; the entire set being 
furnished at a price considerably less than is paid for a 
single four sheet Map. 

No. 53. Map of Schuylkill county, Pa., on a 

scale of 2 miles to the inch. Price, 1 00 

No. 54. The Stranger's Guide to the public build- 
ings, places of amusement, streets, 
lanes, alleys, wharves, principal hotels, 
steam-boat landing's, stage officcis, &c. 



in the City of Philadelpliia and ad- 
joining Districts, with references for 
ascertaining their position on the ac- 
companying plan of the City ; the 
whole alphabetically aiTanged and 
forming a complete Guide to every 
object of interest in the city and sub- 
ui-bs of Philadelphia: to which are add- 
ed a Map of the environs of Philadel- 
phia and a view of Fair Mount Water 
Works. Price, - - - - $1 00 

No. 54. A new and authentic Map of Colombia, 
with its departments and provinces, con- 
structed principally from the manu- 
script maps drawn at Bogota by order 
of the Colombian government, with 
the main roads distinctly marked, and 
a table of the population, capitals, and 
area in square miles ofthe departments; 
the population and capitals of the pro- 
vinces, and the population, altitude, la- 
titude, and longitude, of the capitals of 
each province: the whole presenting an 
accurate view of the geography of Co- 
lombia brought up to the present time. 
Price, on rollers or in a portable form, 5 00 

The same printed on bank note paper, in pock- 
et case, . . - - . 3 50 

No. 55. A View of the United States — historical, 
geographical, and statistical, exhibiting, 
in a convenient form, the natural and 
artificial features of the several states, 
and embracing those leading branches 
of history and statistics, best adapted 
to develope the present condition of 
the North American Union; illustrated 
with Maps, &c. By William Darby, 
forming an 18mo. book of 600 pages, 
with 14 maps. Price, - - 2 50 



No. 59. 


Do. 


No. 2. 


No. 60. 


Do. 


No. 3. 


No. 61. 


Do. 


No. 4. 


No. 62. 


Do. 


No. 5. 


No. 63. 


Do. 


No. 6. 


No. 64. 


Do- 


No. 7. 


No. 65. 


Do. 


No. 8. 


No. 66. 


Do. 


No. 9. 


No. 67. 


Do. 


No. 10 


No. 68. 


Do. 


contaii 



10 

No. 56. A new pocket Atlas of the United 
States, the Maps drawn on a uniform 
scale, with the distances from place to 

place. Price, 

No. 57. Map of the state of Pennsylvania, - 
No. 58. Drawing Book. No. 1. Human figure. 
Price, - - - - - 
Landscapes. 
Shipping- 
Landscapes, - 
the same, col'd 
Flowers, 
Flowers, 
Flowers, 
Flowers, 
Roses, 
containing 8 sheets of 
Flowers coloured. Price, 
No. 69. Print, view ofthe Highlands on the Hud- 
son, 

No. 70. Do. do West Point from the 

Cadet's monument, - - - 

No. 71. Do. do do. from Fort Clinton, 

No. 72. Do. do Mount Vernon, 

No. 73. Do. do the same coloured. 

No. 74. Atlas ofthe state of South Carolina, con- 
taining maps of the several districts 
drawn on a uniform scale of two miles 

to the inch, 

No. 75. The same maps put up in a portable 
form, at prices from ^3 50 to $1 50 
each. 
No. 76. Map of the state of South Carolina on 
four sheets, drawn and published hi 
conformity to a law of the state. 
No. 77. A View of West Florida, embracing its 
geography, topography, &c. with an ap- 
pendix treating of its antiquities, land 



11 

titles, and proposed canals, with Maps, 

by J. L. WUliams. Price, - - $2 00 

■^o. 78. Map of the western part of Florida, ex- 
tending from Mobile bay to the Suwa- 
nee river both inclusive, in pocket case, 1 25 

sTo. 79. A Map of the state of New Jersey, with 
parts of the adjoining- states, engraved 
on three sheets. Price mounted on rol- 
lers, or in a portable form, - - 8 00 

To. 80. Plan ofthe city of Pittsburg and adjacent 

country. Price in pocket case, - 1 00 

* ^* In preparation, a four sheet Map of the World 
n the globular projection, and a four sheet Map ofthe 
Inited States, on a scale of 30 miles to the inch. Also, 

Classical Atias, consisting of 57 Maps of Ancient Geo- 
raphy, in imperial quarto. 

(Xj' The Map of the United States is nearly complete 
d, and will be published early in the spring of 1829, 






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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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